Is it possible to plant a lily at home? Features of different varieties. Features of cultivation after distillation

Lily cultivation and care

Lily is a perennial bulbous plant of the lily family. General features- the presence of a bulb; six-petalled flowers with 6 stamens and a three-nested ovary; elongated leaves with parallel venation.

Only thanks to the cooperation of nature and man, never-before-seen miracle plants appear.

Now about 100 species and over 3000 varieties of lilies are known.

Site selection

Lilies need soil that is free of weeds, loose, nutritious and permeable. These flowers grow well only in fresh, clean soil. When choosing a site for lilies, pay attention to what plants were grown here before. The best predecessors are legumes and annual flowers (petunias, violets, Snapdragon), with the exception of asters. You can also grow lilies after some vegetables (radish, lettuce, cucumber, cabbage), but if onion, garlic or strawberries grew in this place, then you will have to wait 3 years.
These flowers do not tolerate stagnant water. Tubular and most Asiatic lilies are grown on open places, but a light shadow won't hurt them. But you should not plant lilies close to trees, where the soil is dried and heavily shaded.

Before choosing a site for planting lilies, decide which varieties or hybrids you are going to grow here. For example: curly lilies, Sargent and Henry do not tolerate direct sunlight, they need diffused lighting, and Tubular and Orleans, on the contrary, grow better in the open.

Although still most lilies prefer light shading or exposure to the sun for only half a day. But to protect the flowers from strong winds sure, and the larger and more beautiful the flowers of the lily, the more protection they need. Ornamental shrubs planted nearby will help with this, they can simultaneously provide shade and serve as protective fences.
What else should you pay attention to: the size of the fertile layer and the horizon underlying it. The first must be powerful enough, the second permeable to water. Lilies have special roots that move the bulb in the soil. They are called contractile and have the ability to contract and retract the bulb to the desired depth. If the processed layer is too small, this will not happen. The bulb will be in uncomfortable conditions, and the grower will not be able to achieve good results. A gradual increase in the thickness of the fertile layer is facilitated by deep digging with the introduction a large number organic fertilizers. It is possible to eliminate the adverse effect of the subsoil layer (stagnation of water leading to rotting of the bulbs) using a drainage device.

Soil preparation and planting

It is necessary to start preparing the soil in advance, given that the lily is a perennial plant and will stay in one place without a transplant for 3-5 years.

On heavy soils, peat, humus, sand are introduced for planting bulbs. It is important to remember that an excess of organic fertilizer causes increased growth of the aerial part to the detriment of the formation of strong healthy bulbs, reduces winter hardiness, resistance to diseases, and weakens flowering.

On poor podzolic soils, humus is applied at the rate of 8-9 kg/m2, on average leached chernozems 4-5 kg/m2. An even smaller norm can be limited to nutrient-rich chernozems.

Fertilize the soil before the main pre-planting treatment. Under plowing or digging, mineral fertilizers are applied simultaneously with organic fertilizers, of which the most important are nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. On nutrient-average soils, about 100 g / m2 of the mixture is needed.

A place for planting lilies is prepared, of course, based on the needs of each group. Here, the mechanical composition, acidity, fertility, and moisture capacity are taken into account. Professionals believe that the "right" soil is 80% of success in growing lilies!
Different varieties of lilies vary quite a lot in their needs. For example: Asian and LA hybrids feel better in slightly acidic and neutral, humus soils; Tubular hybrids need weak, slightly alkaline soil with impurities of sand and ash; and Oriental hybrids need good drainage and very loose, acidic soil.

A lot of species can be grown on medium loamy soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5, large quantity organic matter and moderate moisture content. Such an "average" soil will also be a good basis for various modifications for each group. But in order to bring the initial soil to the required "standards", you will have to work a little.
In those places where stagnation of rain and melt water is possible, drainage is done. To do this, ditches are dug with a slope in one direction with a depth of 60-70 cm, on the bottom of which a layer of rubble or broken brick is laid, and then sand and covered with earth from above.

It may take more than one year to improve clay and heavy loamy soils. First, liming is carried out: 300-500 g/m2, depending on the initial acidity. Lime is applied in autumn, covered to a depth of 30-35 cm and thoroughly mixed with the soil. In the spring, a large amount of rotted organic fertilizers (8-10 kg/m) is applied and dug up again. Then, all summer long, the site is kept moist, and only in the fall can the first, not the most capricious, lilies be planted.
Sandy soils are different from clay soils and have a good structure, but they are not water-intensive enough for lilies. Water seeping through porous soil quickly carries away many of the soluble nutrients needed by plants. Therefore, when preparing, it is necessary to increase the ability of sandy soil to retain water. This can also be done by adding organic matter. Compost or humus is applied regularly, but in small doses. Lime, if necessary, every year in small quantities.
If the soil on your site is loamy, well cultivated, then a month before planting, simply dig it to a depth of 40-60 cm and add a complete mineral fertilizer up to 100 g / m2.

If the soil is completely unsuitable, then for some demanding lilies, special training. For example, for planting Eastern hybrids: remove the top 30-centimeter layer and fill the resulting trench with a special soil mixture composed of 12 parts of marsh moss - loose and lumpy, 2 parts of coarse sand and 0.5 parts of limestone or dolomite flour, with the addition of a complete mineral fertilizer with trace elements. All components must be thoroughly mixed and moistened. The mixture is poured to a height of 15-30 cm above ground level, and lilies are planted on a hill.

Landing

It is very important to land correctly, which will save you from many problems in the future.

Bulbs can be planted in autumn and spring. For most lilies, early autumn plantings are preferred. The optimal planting date is September. Under the condition of a warm autumn, the bulbs have time to take root. With the early onset of frost, they should be covered with insulating material.

Lilies should be planted in spring as early as possible - at the very beginning of germination, since young stems in spring are very fragile and break quickly.

The timing of planting and transplanting lilies depends on their variety. For most plants, this is autumn - in the middle lane August-September, in the south October-November - the time when the vegetation ends in plants. Asian, Oriental, Tubular and LA hybrids can also be planted quite successfully in early spring in April-May (provided the soil is prepared in advance).
Bulbs with well-preserved roots and elastic scales are selected for planting. If you purchased dried planting material, it is necessary to soak the bulbs in water immediately before planting, and even better in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. And before soaking, remove dead roots and damaged tissues.

If it is necessary to keep the bulbs for several days, they are placed in a cool place, shifting with wet moss, sawdust, sand or just earth.
Bulbs are planted so that the feeding area for each plant is approximately 20x30 cm. These figures can vary widely depending on the species, variety, growth characteristics of lilies and other reasons. For example, in group plantings, lilies are planted closer to each other, leaving additional space around the group.
Planting depth depends on bulb size and soil type. It is 2-3 bulb heights, counting from its top to the soil surface, that is, an average of 15-25 cm. Plant a little deeper on light soils, and vice versa on clay soils. The only exception is again the Snow-White hybrids, which do not form stem roots. Their bulbs are planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm, otherwise they will not bloom.
If soil preparation was carried out without soil replacement, planting is carried out as follows. They dig a hole 35-50 cm deep, put humus mixed with mineral fertilizer on the bottom, then a layer of soil (7-10 cm), and clean river sand (4-5 cm) is poured on top. The bulb is set on a sandy mound, the roots are straightened and covered with earth. After planting, the soil, as usual, is abundantly watered and mulched.
The bulbs prepared for planting are examined, the sick are discarded, the decayed scales are removed; cut off lifeless and shorten too long living roots. Then the bulbs are pickled in a solution of 0.2% fundozol or TMTD, and, if necessary, an insecticide (0.1% phosphamide, BN-58, chlorophos).

Planting depth depends on the size of the bulbs and the mechanical composition of the soil. On the lungs sandy soils they plant deeper, on heavy clay - smaller.

Planted in funnels or holes to a depth of 2-3 times the height of the bulb, counting from the top of the bulb to the soil surface.

One of the most important conditions for planting and transplanting lilies is to keep the bulb and roots fresh, that is, preventing them from drying out. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat, humus.

Lily breeding methods

1. Reproduction by bulbs.

This method is used more often than others, since it is the simplest and is applicable to all varieties and types of lilies.

But this method is the least productive for unpretentious, hardy and fast growing lilies, such as Asiatic and Tubular hybrids. In them, due to the formation of several renewal buds by one bulb, a whole nest is formed in its place a few years after planting. Bulbs with an independent root system, obtained after dividing the nest, are transplanted to a new place in late August - early September.
Reproduction by daughter bulbs (kids). Children are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from mother plant in autumn or early spring when transplanting, or simply after raking the earth from the stem. Separated daughter bulbs are planted in a permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

An adult mother bulb is able to separate daughter bulbs from itself. They divide the nests and transplant the bulbs after 3-4 years. During this period, a nest of 3-7 daughter bulbs with its own root system is formed around the mother.

In autumn or spring, the nest is dug up, carefully separating the bulbs, and planted in a new place using the same technology as in the usual planting of bulbs.

2. Reproduction by scales.

This method is most effective, as it makes it possible to obtain 15-100 new plants from one bulb.

You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in a cool place.

This method, which gives a large amount of planting material, is suitable for all types of lilies. It is based on the ability of the scales separated from the bulbs to form small bulbs. The best result is obtained when using the outer, largest scales. Without damage to the bulb, you can remove up to half of all scales. The terms of scaling are different for different types of lilies, starting from spring - in Asian hybrids, in the flowering phase - in Tubular, up to autumn transplant- Eastern. Depending on the time of year, the scales, after preliminary preparation, are planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses, or stored like bulbs.

The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In the spring they are planted in the ground.

In the autumn separation of the scales after the formation of the bulbs, they are placed for 4-6 weeks in a refrigerator at 0 + 5 0C, after which they are planted in boxes. In May-June, plants are transplanted into open ground.
3. Reproduction by stem buds (bulbs).
Bulbous varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.

A number of varieties of lilies have the ability to form small stem bulbs - bulbs in the axils of the leaves. As they mature in August-September, they are collected and planted by analogy with children. Plantings are covered for the winter. You can plant bulbs in the spring, then they are stored all winter in tied plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3OC.

The removal of buds contributes to the increase in bulbousness of lilies.

Bulbs separated from the stem at the end of summer are planted in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm, watered, mulched. For the formation of larger bulbs, buds and flowers are removed. In the third year after sowing, the plants bloom.

4. Reproduction by seeds.

This method is the most productive for species lilies and hybrids capable of setting seeds. But, as you know, plants from hybrid seeds often do not retain the decorative features of their parents. The collected seeds should be sown immediately after ripening: their germination lasts only about a year. The soil mixture is prepared according to the needs of the mother plant.

When grown from seeds, lilies bloom in the 3-4th year.

5. Reproduction by tissue culture.

This is a laboratory method requiring sterile conditions. It is used to accelerate the reproduction of lilies and the release of old valuable varieties from viral diseases. Allows for a short time get a large amount of healthy planting material.

Landing Care

Care is maintaining the soil in a moist, loose, weed-free state, fertilizing, protecting against pests and diseases.

Lily leaves are sensitive to water, and therefore it is better to water the plants under the root.

Moderate soil moisture is needed throughout the season. The greatest need for water occurs in the first half of summer, as well as after flowering, when the formation of bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrient reserves for the winter.

Top dressing is advisable to make before watering or with it. In the first year after planting, the plants develop worse, do not reach normal growth and flowering. For their best development, the buds are partially or completely removed. Weak or very strong plants that can break under their own weight are tied up on a support.

In the second and third years after planting, lilies bloom profusely. As a rule, growth decreases in the fourth or fifth year, flowering weakens. This indicates that it is time to divide and transplant plants to a new place.

You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted. Planted lilies necessarily need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find "both a table and a house" under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before sprouts appear. Also, before the shoots appear, the first spring fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out, for example, with a solution of ammonium nitrate - 30 g / m2 - or urea - 20 g / m2.
First of all, "kids" start growing, and then mature bulbs. The bulbs of Oriental and Longiflorum hybrids germinate later than all. Young shoots are very sensitive to cold, so spring frosts can seriously damage plants, especially heat-loving ones. Spring shelter should be lighter than winter, so as not to impede growth. It can be straw, hay,.
When sprouts appear, the soil is carefully loosened so as not to damage the late shoots, and a second top dressing is carried out with complete mineral fertilizer (30-40 g / m2). Lilies respond better to frequent but dosed feeding. Try to use gradually dissolving fertilizers like "Kemira", which do not burn the roots.
As soon as warm weather sets in, you need to make sure that the top layer of soil, where many lilies have supra-bulbous roots, does not dry out. Moisture and coolness will help to keep the mulching material, in addition, preventing the growth of weeds. Protection from pests and diseases is also necessary, a separate article of our guide is devoted to this topic.

For better development lilies in the first year after planting, as a rule, they are not allowed to bloom, removing the formed buds (they do the same for the formation of larger bulbs). But next year, in the budding phase, do not forget to make the third dressing with a complete mineral fertilizer for better flowering. The last time top dressing with phosphate and potash fertilizers is given immediately after flowering (15-20 g / m2 of superphosphate and potassium nitrate). Tall and weakened flowers should be carefully tied to pegs so that wind and bad weather do not break them.

The need for water in lilies is also different. For example, Asian, Tubular and LA hybrids need moderate moisture throughout the growing season, while Eastern ones require more abundant rainfall, but a dry period at the end. Maintaining the desired regime is achieved with the help of watering, which is stopped after the end of flowering. At this time, the need for additional moisture usually disappears.
Oriental hybrids in early autumn, before the start of the period of prolonged rains, are even specially constructed shelter to dry the soil. The transparent film is stretched over the arcs over the bed and pressed from the sides, leaving the ends free for ventilation. With the onset of the first frost, the dried soil is covered, and the film is placed on top of the shelter, without removing it until spring.
After the end of the growing season, when the stems of lilies are touched by the autumn cold, they must be cut and burned in order to prevent the development of diseases, and also so that the stems protruding from under the snow in winter do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.

Common mistakes when growing lilies

1. Low land for landing.
Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in a lowland leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even to their death.
How to avoid it.

It is necessary to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rainwater either in spring or autumn, or to arrange reliable drainage.

How to avoid it.

Mulch the soil with light materials (sawdust, straw, mowed grass).

5. Concentrated top dressing.

Lilies need to be fed, but high concentrations of fertilizers have a depressing effect on their growth and development.
How to avoid it.

Apply top dressing several times in small doses.

Lilies are called the royal flower for a reason. In beauty, they are not inferior to the most exquisite plants. Lily flowers are striking in variety. All of them are combined in 9 groups, each of which has dozens of varieties. Today there are over 10,000 of them.

Lilies: description

Lilies are bulbous plants. The bulb is loose, its scales are attached to the bottom. The size of the lily bulb depends on the variety and can be from 1 cm to 20 cm. The growth point is located on the bottom. Roots come out of it. In some species, additional roots grow on the stem in summer. They die off in autumn.

The stem of the lily grows for one year, then dies. Its height is from 5 cm to 2.5 m. The stem is covered with long pointed leaves. Their shape and location depend on the species. They can be collected in basal rosettes or whorls, sometimes evenly spaced on the stem. There are varieties in which small onion-babies grow at the base of the leaf.

The main pride of a lily is its flowers.

The brush is formed different shapes. It can be an umbrella or a cone. It consists of 8-16 flowers, but there may be more. The lower ones bloom first, bloom for about a week, then the petals fall off, giving way to those located above. Each of the varieties blooms for about a crescent.

It may seem that lily flowers have the same shape. But in fact, it can be different:

• tubular
• funnel-shaped
• chalmoid
• bell-shaped
• in the shape of a star
• flat

Each flower has 6 petals and the same number of stamens with hairy anthers. Flowers of terry varieties have more petals. Their size may vary. Funnel-shaped 4 cm wide and 10 cm long, turban-shaped up to 10 cm wide. And flat ones reach 25 cm. When buying a lily bulb, you can find out about the shape of its flower by special markings. It is indicated by two letters, written through /. The first indicates the direction of the flower: "a" - up, "b" - to the side, "c" - down, the second describes the shape: "a" - tubular, "b" - in the form of a bowl, "c" - flat, " d" - chalmoid.

Colors and shades are amazing variety. They can be almost any color except pure blue. There are one-two-color, with spots, strokes, dots, border. Some lily flowers have a pleasant aroma. There are those in whom it is too strong, just suffocating. Lily fruits are boxes in which seeds ripen by autumn. But they are usually not brought to maturity by breaking off the boxes. This allows the bulb to accumulate more useful substances for wintering and further growth without spending them on seeds.

There are such groups of lilies:

• Natural, from which hybrids are created. These include varieties Snow White, Royal, Tiger, Curly, Beautiful, Dwarf.
• Asian have 5 thousand varieties. Frost-resistant, unpretentious, resistant to diseases. The most common. There are dwarf, medium and large (1.5 m).
• Curly has only 200 varieties. Chalmoid create an inflorescence, shaped like a chandelier. There are very few daughter bulbs, so it is difficult to propagate the variety. Frost-resistant, grow in the shade.
• Snow-white has about 3 dozen varieties. They have a pleasant smell. Grow in sunny places, do not tolerate frost, often get sick.
• American hybrids combine more than 100 varieties. Their flowers are quite large and brightly colored. Can grow in the shade. They don't like transplants.
• Tubular hybrids prefer neutral or slightly alkaline soils. In winter they need to be covered.
• Orientals (eastern) hybrids of 1.3 thousand varieties. They prefer sunny areas protected from the wind. The soil should be loose, the reaction is slightly acidic. On clay soil, they often get sick and die.
• Long-flowered hybrids are beautiful, but do not tolerate frost. Therefore, they are grown only in greenhouses. They have a strong odor.
• Interspecific, among which stand out: LA hybrids, LO hybrids.

Lily bulbs usually grow in one place for 4 years. Then they need to be transplanted, otherwise the flowers will become small due to the large number of bulbs formed over the years. Varieties in which children grow slowly can be grown in one place for up to 7 years. These are Caucasian, curly, tubular hybrids.

Transplant to a new place or plant after buying a bulb in late August - early September. Previously, they have not yet gained the required amount of useful substances, they have not recovered after Asians can be transplanted even in summer. Dig up the bulbs with a pitchfork, with a clod of earth, so that the roots are not damaged. If the lilies are planted much later, then they may not have time to take root before the onset severe frosts and disappear. If this nevertheless happened, or the frosts came too early, they cover the site.

In early spring, you can transplant lilies that bloom late. It's brindle, white, Henry. Caucasian varieties are not transplanted in the spring. Lilies should be transplanted as soon as they are removed from the ground. You do not need to dry them so as not to damage the roots. Before planting, carefully inspect, cut out damaged areas, scales and roots. Sick bulbs are thrown away or burned.

Wash planting material running water half an hour, then treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and foundationazole.

Choose a site where lilies have not grown for at least 2 years before. Predecessors can be any leguminous or annual flowers. Do not plant lilies only after.

Analyze the composition of the soil. Take into account the characteristics of the variety (light area, shade, partial shade). If groundwater comes too close to the soil surface, it is better not to plant lilies there so that the bulbs do not rot. In extreme cases, you need to arrange good drainage for them. But lilies do not like overdried soil that does not hold water. It is necessary to add peat, fallen leaves to the soil.

Take into account the acidity of the soil. Most lilies love neutral soils. When planting tiger, Asian hybrids add peat to the soil. Tubular hybrids, drooping, Henry, dwarf, royal do not like peat. They prefer calcareous and slightly acidic soils, so lime must be applied under them or.

Planting depth also depends on the species. Usually, lilies are immersed in the ground by 15 cm. White lilies are only buried a couple of centimeters, otherwise they will not bloom. Royal, Curly and other varieties that grow roots on the stem are immersed by 20 cm. In addition, the composition of the soil is taken into account. Light loose require more deep landing. A distance is left between the two bulbs, which also depends on the characteristics of the variety. For large it is 20 cm, for undersized 10 cm.

It is good for all bulbs to provide a pillow of washed river sand up to 4 cm high. It will protect the bottom from excess moisture and protect it from decay. The bulbs are installed at the bottom of the prepared hole, the roots are leveled, the landing site is marked, and covered with earth. Watering, mulching. You can cover the sprouts with plastic bottles.

In the spring, they remove the shelter from the site, if it was. For lilies whose buds may freeze slightly, it is removed after the threat of a return frost has passed. Waiting for the soil to dry out and warm up. Weeding before a rosette of leaves appears from under the ground is dangerous, you can damage the stem and root. And after the first sprout appears, you need to loosen the soil not very close to it. Other stems may grow nearby.

How to properly care for flowers:

• Lilies need to be watered only during a drought, bringing water under the root. Make sure that water does not fall on the leaves. This can lead to fungal infections.
• Buds formed in the first year must be removed. This will lead to abundant flowering in subsequent years.
• High varieties of lilies are tied to a support.
• Several times a lily season is needed. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, during the period of the appearance of buds - a complete complex. After flowering, potassium and phosphorus are added to form the bulb. Use microfertilizers: water lilies with a solution blue vitriol, boric acid, potassium permanganate.
• In autumn, the remains of the stems are cut off and burned along with other waste. Until the soil freezes, snow-white lilies cover well. After the earth freezes a few centimeters, lightly cover the lily of Henry, David. Tubular hybrids, royal lilies are covered with a thickness of 20 cm.
• Lilies in varying degrees affected by fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are dangerous for them: fusarium, gray rot. In the spring, to prevent these diseases, the plants are treated with Bordeaux liquid, repeating the procedure every two weeks. When affected by viral diseases, the plant is completely removed and burned.
• Lily and some pests are affected. The most dangerous - and onion mites. If signs of damage are found, they are treated with insecticides.

Most often, lilies reproduce vegetatively. When digging lily bushes, small baby bulbs are separated or harvested at the end of summer, planted to a depth of 5 cm, sheltered from frost. In the third year, the plant survives in a flower bed.

Lilies are sometimes propagated with scales broken off from the main bulb. To do this, they are removed during transplantation, separating up to half of the scales. Washed with potassium permanganate, dried, sprinkled with crushed coal. Placed in plastic bags, mixed with sand or sphagnum moss. Tie up so that there is more air in the bag. Store one and a half months at 25 ° C, then lower it to 18 ° C for a month. During this period, small bulbs form near the bases of the scales. They are transferred to the cold, where they are stored until the end of August. Planted for rearing. After 2-3 years, the lilies will bloom.

Can be planted in a greenhouse, in the sand, make a shelter made of polyethylene or glass. Moisten the soil periodically. After the leaves appear, they are planted in the ground at a distance of several centimeters. Watered, protected from weeds.

Species lilies are propagated by seeds.

Sow only freshly harvested. But some of them carry the cotyledons out a month after sowing. This is Henry's lily, royal, tiger, drooping. They are sown in February, fall asleep by 0.5 cm. They are kept at a temperature of 20 ° C. Seeds of some varieties (lily Sovic, curly) seedlings appear in the second year. Boxes with crops are kept at a temperature of -1°C. In the spring they are transferred to the greenhouse. A lily grown in this way blooms for 3-7 years.

More information can be found in the video:

Lily is a truly multifaceted flower. It turns out that in the culture of lilies were used not only as an ornamental plant!

For example, in China and Japan, starting from the 13th century, some varieties of lilies (in particular, the lanceolate lily) were grown solely for the bulbs that were eaten. And the use of the lily as an ornamental plant in China and Japan began much later - in the 17th century. In European parks, the lily as an ornamental plant has been cultivated everywhere since the end of the 16th century.

But to grow a lily, so to speak, on an industrial scale, they learned precisely in our time. And as you might guess, the famous flower growers, the Dutch, were the most successful in this matter.

Moreover, cultivation and “harvesting” on dozens of hectares of fields sown with lily bulbs are automated as much as possible: harvesters, washer-dryers, bulb storages, in which the specified humidity and temperature are maintained - everything is organized in such a way as to obtain the highest quality products.

From such enterprises, lily bulbs are sent to different parts of the world, so that every grower has the opportunity to decorate his garden with exactly those representatives of the lily family that he likes the most! Moreover, the difference among lilies is not limited to specific features, since many varieties and hybrids have been bred on the basis of the original species today, striking the eye with an unprecedented variety of shapes and shades!

lilies- these are perennial bulbous herbs, reaching a height of 180 cm. According to one version, the name "lily" comes from Greek word lerion - "white"; from this word came the Latin Lirium, later transformed into Lilium. Currently, there are more than 100 species of lilies, differing from each other both in flower shape and in color and size, common in central and southern Asia, Europe and North America.

At the same time, the habitat of the lily is unusually wide: flowers of various lilies can be found both in areas with a warm climate (south of China, Taiwan, the Philippines), and in a zone with a temperate climate and even in the cold north (Japan, Korea, taiga forests of the Primorsky Territory of Russia , Kuril Islands and Sakhalin Island).

Lilies, as already mentioned, are perennials, so they are within growing season accumulate nutrients in underground organs - bulbs wintering in a flower bed until spring. The depth of the bulbs in the ground can vary depending on the type of lily variety: most varieties form bulbs at a considerable depth, but there are also lilies with bulbs located near the soil surface. It is noteworthy that in the climatic zone with frost-free winters, the stems of lilies in the cold season may not die off completely, but fade only partially, to the rosette. With the onset of climatic spring, the stem that has been preserved since autumn gives rise to new growth, and the cycle of flower development is repeated.

Lily flowers can be quite small (like the wild-growing Martagon lily) or very large, like many varietal varieties, often have a pleasant aroma. The range of shades of flowers is very diverse: from classic white to interesting yellow, orange, red and even purple shades. Most lilies bloom in late spring - early summer. The flower has 6 recurved petals and large protruding stamens and pistil. This form helps to attract pollinating insects to the flower. Seeds ripen on lily flowers at the end of summer.

Choosing lily bulbs for growing

When buying bulbs, you must follow a few simple but important rules. First of all, you should avoid places of spontaneous trade, that is, do not buy lily bulbs from your hands: in markets, in places of unauthorized trade near garden shops. Indeed, with such a purchase, you not only risk getting a “pig in a poke”, that is, buying a completely different variety or hybrid that you are promised, but also bringing a plant infected, for example, with fungi, into the garden, as a result of which healthy flowers may also suffer, including lilies (if you plan to complete the collection of lilies in your garden). So best option- buy lily bulbs in specialized stores selling plants and manufacturers that have proven themselves in the market.

But even if you buy bulbs, for example, brought from Holland, in a bag with the appropriate label, you should still carefully examine the bulbs before purchasing. First of all, feel each bulb - a healthy bulb should be firm, without softening or signs of rot. The bulb must have several roots and a sprout. Also, the packaging with the bulbs should not be too rumpled - this may indicate that the bulbs have been stored in the store for a long time, transferred from box to box and, therefore, have been at an unsuitable temperature for a long time.

Lily bulbs should be bought as close as possible to the day of planting: in this case, the risk of damage to the bulbs due to improper storage during the period from purchasing them in the store to planting is significantly reduced. If you still need to hold the bulbs at home for some time until the day of planting, then this can only be done at a certain temperature. The best place for this is the compartment of the refrigerator, where the temperature is maintained at 0 degrees. Lily bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator in any air-permeable container. For example, in a cardboard box, mixed with dry peat or sphagnum. If, on the bulbs, even in the refrigerator, sprouts begin to lengthen, then you should not be afraid of this, as this is a natural process: lily bulbs grow even in winter. Landing in the ground can be done at the very beginning of spring. The only condition is that there should be a positive temperature outside and the ground should not be frozen.

planting lilies

Lily bulbs are usually planted in the ground in autumn (no later than 3 weeks before the onset of frost) or in early spring, as soon as the ground thaws.

Planting material must be healthy: the bulbs should not show signs of rot, soft dents, fresh mechanical damage. Before planting, it is necessary to carefully examine the bulb and, if dry tips of the roots are found on it, cut them off with a secateurs. The depth of planting depends on the bulb itself: large bulbs are buried deeper, smaller ones closer to the surface of the earth. In order not to make a mistake with the calculation of the depth, you can always use a simple rule: plant the bulb to a depth of three sizes of the bulb itself (an exception is the planting of a snow-white lily and hybrids derived from it to a depth of no more than 3 cm).

The distance between the bulbs when planting is usually 15-30 cm, depending on the size of the plants. Before planting, it is imperative to drain the planting hole with sand: sand is poured onto the bottom of the hole, then it is impossible to get into it due to the sprout being too long, then the bulb in the hole will need to be placed at an angle so that the sprout hides underground and at the same time the bulb was not planted too deep. Also, when planting certain lilies, it is necessary to carefully study the characteristics of a particular variety: remember that not all natural types and hybrids of lilies are frost-resistant enough and it may happen that some of them cannot grow in your region. Therefore, in order not to waste time and labor in vain, choose for planting only those varieties of lilies that are adapted to your climate zone.

And don't forget about the spring frosts. In principle, most lilies withstand the return of cold and spring frosts without damage,

but there are exceptions. For example, lilies of the Tubular hybrid group may suffer during spring frosts and therefore not bloom, therefore, during cold weather, it is recommended to cover the planting site of tubular lilies with last year's foliage or any other insulation. And it is also necessary to remember the need of each variety of lilies in sunlight. It is known that many lilies grow quite well in partial shading (for example, lilies of the Martagon group), but still, an open sunny place is optimal for most lilies (especially for tubular and snow-white hybrids). And last but not least important condition proper planting of lilies - correct selection soil acidity. For example, lilies of LA and OT hybrids grow on neutral soils, tubular lilies and lilies of the Candidum group prefer slightly alkaline soils, lilies of the Oriental and American hybrids grow well on acidic soils, lilies of the Asian hybrid group and the Martagon hybrid group - on slightly acidic or neutral.

Lily Care

In the summer, lilies do not require special care. Most varieties of lilies can withstand short-term drying of the soil in hot weather in summer, so artificial watering should be done only during a long drought (with the exception of Oriental hybrids that prefer frequent watering). An important rule for artificial watering lilies: watering can only be done at the root, water sprayers should not be used.

Lily feeding

During the growing season, lilies should be fed with complex mineral or organic fertilizers, especially if lilies are grown on poor soils. At the same time, the larger and the more magnificent this or that variety of lily should bloom, the more demanding it is for top dressing. Usually lilies are fertilized 3-4 times during the growing season, and the type of fertilizer depends on the phase of development of lilies. In spring, growth-stimulating nitrogen fertilizers are applied, phosphorus fertilizers before and during flowering, and potash fertilizers after flowering, which increase the ability of plants to withstand winter cold. In the summer, weeding, loosening the soil around the plants and pest control, if any, should also be carried out as necessary.

In the autumn period, you need to take care of proper preparation for the winter of certain varieties of lilies. Particular attention will need to be paid to the lilies of the Eastern group, as well as OT hybrids: in the autumn, the bulbs of these varieties should be in dry ground, so in rainy weather, their place of growth will need to be covered with a film.

In the first winter after planting, all lilies must be covered, regardless of their frost resistance. In subsequent winters - as needed, depending on the climate of your region and the frost resistance of the species, variety or hybrid of lilies you have planted.

Lily breeding

Most simple ways reproduction of lilies - the division of bulbs, bulbous scales and stem buds (bulbs).

Reproduction of lilies by dividing the bulbs

During life, the lily bulb divides all the time, so the so-called babies are formed around it, eventually reaching the size of the mother plant. Outwardly, this process is manifested in the formation of a bush of lilies in place of one adult plant. Therefore, such a bush can be divided and planted in a new place. The division of the bush is best done when the young lilies reach a height of 10 cm, and according to the time of year - in autumn or spring. The transplant process is simple: a lily bush is dug up, young bulbs are separated from it, before planting, the bulbs are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes and planted in a new place on the same day.

bulb scales

The method of propagation of bulbs with scales is based on an interesting fact: the scales of lily bulbs are viable on their own and can form a full-fledged bulb and plant. And this is how it is done. Bulbs of adult lilies are dug up in early spring or autumn. The bulb is washed, cleaned of dirt. Then it is necessary to carefully separate a number of outer scales at the base so that the bulb is reduced in volume by no more than half. The remaining bulb can be planted again in a flower bed, and the scales must be soaked for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then treated with a drug that stimulates root formation. Then the dried scales should be mixed with sphagnum moss and placed in this form in plastic boxes, closing them with lids on top.

In this form, boxes with scales are placed in a dark, but warm place with a temperature of about 23°C and kept for 6 weeks. Then, for another 4 weeks, the temperature in the room where the boxes are stored must be reduced to 17 ° C. As a result, we will get small bulbs formed on the scales of lilies. In this form, the plants should be planted in a permanent place in the garden or temporarily in boxes if it is still too cold outside. The formation of adult plants from scales occurs in the 2-3rd year after planting.

Lily stem bulbs

Another interesting way reproduction of lilies - with the help of stem buds (bulbs). True, this method has one drawback - not all varieties of lilies form stem bulbs. However, the phenomenon is not uncommon, especially during long periods of warm but damp weather.

Most often, bulbs are formed after the flowering period of lilies, ripening in the axils between the leaf and the stem. At the end of maturation, the bulbs are separated. From now on, they are suitable for planting. It is better to plant bulbils from autumn not directly in the garden, but in a special container in the form of seedlings. The container itself is placed in a cool room with a slightly positive temperature for the winter. And with the advent of climatic spring, when young sprouts appear on the bulbs, they must be planted in a permanent place in the garden.

Two options for wintering lilies

Wintering lilies involves two options: staying indoors in the winter and digging up the bulbs for the winter and storing them indoors at a certain temperature and humidity.

Wintering lilies in the ground

Those lilies can winter in the ground, the frost resistance of which does not cause concern in relation to the average temperatures of the coldest month in each individual region. For example, it is known that the lilies of the Asian hybrid group, the Martagon group, as well as a number of new hybrid groups, for example, LA hybrids, are the least sensitive to frost.

Varieties with low frost resistance include a group of long-flowered hybrids, as well as part of the groups of Oriental and Tubular hybrids.

On the other hand, in the first year after planting, most varieties of lilies require shelter for the winter, as the plants are not yet strong enough.

A good means of shelter for lilies are a variety of plant remains - fallen leaves, straw, mowed grass. The best multi-layer shelters, consisting of how many layers of vegetable matter from garden soil. In snowy weather, the growth of lilies is additionally insulated with snow sprinkled on top of the insulation. A more complex shelter for the winter requires Oriental and Tubular hybrids. These varieties can winter only in dry ground, therefore, starting from autumn, the growth sites of these lilies must be protected from moisture during precipitation days with a film.

Wintering lilies at home

Digging for the winter and storing lily bulbs at home is done as follows. Bulbs dug out in autumn are cleaned from the ground, washed and dried. Then a visual inspection of the bulbs is performed: specimens with rot spots or traces of mechanical damage are removed from the total mass. After that, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide and placed in a winter storage place. No pre-treatment, such as root trimming, is required. Lily bulbs should be stored in air-permeable paper-based containers. It can be cardboard boxes or boxes, paper bags.

Before loading into the container, the bulbs must be mixed with a mixture of pine sawdust and peat in a ratio of 1:1. The storage place for the bulbs should be cool (with a constant temperature of 0-2°C) and sufficiently humid (at least 70% humidity).

Growing lilies at home

Part of garden lilies can be grown in a container. At this method there are several benefits. Firstly, the container with lilies can be easily moved in the garden, it can be placed on the terrace, balcony, seating area. Secondly, container-grown lilies are easier to cover from rain in autumn and are conveniently stored in a cold room in winter at the optimum temperature for overwintering lilies. Well, the main advantage of this method is the ability to grow those varieties of lilies that cannot overwinter in the open field due to their non-frost resistance.

One such lily is the Philippine lily. This species will not be able to overwinter outdoors, but will grow well in a container. A notable feature of the Philippine lily is an unusually shaped stem and white, sometimes with a greenish tint and a delicate aroma, tubular flowers. The Philippine lily is demanding on light, warmth and regular watering. For the winter, a container with a Philippine lily is placed in a cool room, watering is reduced to a minimum and kept until spring. At the beginning of spring, a container with a lily can be placed on the southern balcony or loggia, and when warm, frost-free weather sets in, it can be taken out again into the garden.

Another example is the lily of Formosa. This species is found in nature in southern China and on the island of Taiwan, therefore it is also not frost-resistant. But Formosan lily also of interest as a container plant. Her undoubted merit - tubular fragrant flowers are not

the usual color, white inside the petals and painted maroon on the outside, turning into the same maroon stem. The Formosan lily can winter in a bright and cool room, and the growing season of a lily in favorable conditions (a lot of light and heat) may not stop at all.

The longiflorum lily is another species that is best suited for growing in a container. Lily longiflorum grows naturally in southern Japan, reaches a height of 1 meter and is decorated with classic white tubular fragrant flowers.

Another heat-loving species will look really graceful in a container - lily countless. This is a lily from southern regions China, reaches a height of 180 cm. The flowers of the countless lily are large, tubular, fragrant, white at the edges, yellow inside, and outside, closer to the base, decorated with burgundy veins. Lily is not frost-resistant, can winter in a container in a cool room.

But perhaps the most valuable representative of container lilies can be considered royal lily because of its unusually strong aroma. In nature, the royal lily grows in southwestern China, has white funnel-shaped flowers, with yellow spots inside, decorated with pink-purple veins on the outside. The frost resistance of the royal lily is low, but in regions with mild winters it can be grown outdoors.

Lilies, being one of the most beautiful flowers, cannot hide somewhere in the corner of the garden, they must always be in sight. At the same time, it is desirable that the lilies not only please the eye when, for example, you leave the house to the garden or enter the garden from the street, but also be planted in such a way that they can be seen from the window of those rooms in your house where you spend enough time. Well, how to place lilies in the garden and in relation to which plants - there are options. It should only be remembered that many lilies are quite photophilous, so shaded places for most hybrids will not work. How to place lilies in the garden? Just take a look at your garden. Does it have an artificial reservoir? If so, lilies make a great addition to the tall grasses commonly grown around a pond. The only condition is that lilies should be planted on the side of the pond opposite, and not adjacent to the viewing point, otherwise the bright flowers of lilies will simply distract attention from the reservoir to themselves, and this is undesirable, since the pond itself is an attractive object of the garden.

Lilies planted along look great garden paths, especially if the space between the paths is occupied by a simple lawn and small compositions, for example, from coniferous crops.

Many lily hybrids vary considerably in size. Therefore, when forming a composition of various lilies, the tallest varieties should be placed in the center, and the lowest ones along the edges. You can complement the composition of lilies along the edges of the flower bed with the help of unpretentious hosta bushes. The hosta successfully hides the stems of the extreme lilies and covers the free space between the ground and the flowers of the lilies.

During the formation of garden compositions, it is desirable to select varieties of lilies not only by color, but also by flowering time. After all, if you plant lilies in one place that bloom at different periods of summer, then we will get continuously blooming flower bed.

Diseases and pests of lilies

In order for lilies to always delight you with their delightful flowers and not get sick, it is necessary to provide them with proper care and protection. Consider the most common and dangerous diseases and pests of lilies that can threaten your pets.

lily chlorosis

Most lilies usually suffer from violations of the rules of agricultural technology and diseases resulting from this. The most common mistake gardeners make is planting heat-loving lilies in a cold climate zone or on soils with an unsuitable acid-base reaction. For example, on excessively alkaline soils, many lilies can develop chlorosis. This is especially true for hybrids adapted to acidic soils (American hybrids, for example). Chlorosis is a process caused by the death of chlorophyll, and externally manifests itself in the appearance of rusty spots and stripes on the leaves of lilies, moreover, than stronger disease, the more yellowness on the leaves and stems of the plant. Also, the cause of the appearance of chlorosis in lilies can be excessive precipitation, since the trace elements necessary for the plant are washed out of the soil by rainwater.

Control measures. The best way to help a lily with chlorosis is to transplant it to a new place that is suitable for the acidity of the soil, or to acidify the soil around the plant yourself. To do this, it is enough to mulch the soil with rotted pine needles, bark or sawdust. You can also sprinkle forest soil around the bushes from under old pines. In the case of the appearance of chlorosis due to rain, it is also necessary to add additional fertilizers containing iron and magnesium to the soil.

In the case of growing lilies in an unsuitable climatic zone, for example, South Asian hybrids in a zone with a short warm summer and a long period of climatic winter (3 months or more), there is a risk of plant death in the very first winter due to a reduction in the growing season and damping out in winter, so how they are completely unadapted to a long dormant period.

Botrytis, or gray rot

A frequent disease of lilies is botrytis, or gray rot, caused by a specific fungus that often settles on thickened and long-grown lily plantations in one place. The cause of infection can be prolonged rains or excessive watering of lilies, in which moisture constantly remains on the leaves and flowers. In the first place in the risk group are hybrids bred on the basis of snow-white lily, Henry lily, martagon lily and Daurian lily. Signs of the disease are easy to determine visually. Initially, brown spots form on the leaves, intensively increasing in diameter and acquiring a whitish tint. The disease 'spreads quickly to the whole plant, the vegetation stops, the lily begins to dry out from top to bottom in parts and dies, while the bulb remains alive (the fungus does not affect the bulbs). The following year, the lily grows again and, as a rule, is again affected by the fungus.

Control measures. The best remedy fight against gray rot - three times treatment of lilies with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid and a solution of soda ash (3-4 tablespoons per bucket of water). At the end of summer, for the purpose of prevention, lily stems should be cut and burned outside the garden: the fungus overwinters on the stems, so they should not be left in the flower bed.

Fusarium in lilies

Another common disease of lilies is Fusarium. With Fusarium, unlike botrytis, lily bulbs are primarily affected. Moreover, infection can occur even during storage of the bulbs, if they are mechanically damaged or if the storage rules are violated. The disease is transmitted by spores that are in the ground and remain viable for up to three years. The external sign of damage to the bulbs is the formation of rot spots, usually near the bottom of the bulb, and the disease progresses, as a result of which the bulb loses scale after scale and eventually rots completely.

Control measures.

In order to save lily bulbs with signs of minor damage, they must be cleaned.

from the affected parts and treat with a fungicide, such as foundationazole. Bulbs treated in this way can only be planted on another part of the site - away from the place where lilies affected by the fungus grow. Severely damaged bulbs must be burned. But in lilies in the middle of the growing season, the external sign of fusarium is yellowing and drying of the leaves in the lower part of the bush. In this case, it is necessary to wait until the end of summer, dig up the bulbs and process them according to the scheme described above. The following year, a flower bed with lilies will need to be laid in a new place.

Also predisposing factors to the appearance of fusarium are excessive soil moisture, its acidity, as well as an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

One of the common diseases of lilies is viral mosaic. Light spots appear on the leaves, the plants grow weakly, the stems are bent, the buds and flowers are ugly.

Control measures. Methods for treating the disease are unknown - infected lilies must be dug up and destroyed. Also, for the prevention of viral mosaic, it is necessary to timely deal with aphids, mites, thrips, red beetle.

Lily red beetle and aphids

Some insects are also capable of causing significant harm to lilies. These include the lily red beetle and aphids.

Control measures. You can fight the beetle both mechanically (collecting manually and destroying it), and with the help of chemicals(suitable means to combat Colorado potato beetle). It is possible to fight effectively against aphids on lilies only with the help of special preparations focused on combating precisely this pest.

Lily useful properties

Among the numerous genus of lilies, some species deservedly enjoy the reputation of medicinal plants.

One of these species - tiger lily - is used, in particular, in the manufacture of homeopathic preparations and in folk medicine. It is noteworthy that most of the preparations made from tiger lily are most of all used in the treatment of women's ailments, namely irritability, depression, and chronic fatigue. There is also an opinion that lily-based preparations help women find inner harmony, minimizing the consequences of contradictions in character!

From the point of view of official medicine, such a tiger lily is due to a pronounced sedative effect, as well as the ability of the latter to normalize hormonal balance. Therefore, you are constantly sad, feel depressed, burdened with unbearable worries and responsibilities - preparations based on tiger lily are just for you! Science also notes the positive effect of tiger lily preparations on female reproductive organs, as well as a positive effect on people suffering from colds and ailments associated with circulatory disorders.

No less famous in folk medicine is the white lily. Medicines made from various parts white lily, able to heal skin diseases, heal wounds, soften, moisturize the skin and remove unwanted pigmentation. Ointments based on white lily can relieve joint pain, as well as headaches. Also, a decoction of white lily petals can be used as a healing agent for stomatitis. This is all the more relevant in our time, since frequent stomatitis left untreated is the cause of other diseases.

For the treatment of stomatitis, white lily pistils are brewed in milk with the addition of sugar, infused and kept in the mouth for 10-15 minutes. Oil and alcohol infusions are also prepared from the white lily.

Oil infusion is prepared from lily leaves and flowers, filled with vegetable refined oil, preheated to a temperature of 70-80°C. Such a tincture should be infused for a month in direct sun and can subsequently be used as a skin care product.

Alcohol tincture is even easier to prepare: a container filled with half crushed lily flowers is poured with vodka a little more than half the container and infused for a month and a half.

This tincture can treat wounds, as well as effectively fight acne and other skin diseases. You can also use this solution in the form of a lotion, after diluting it with water.

Lilies - questions and answers

Last year I had a friend, an exquisite lady of slightly post-Balzac age, a ceramist by profession and a newly converted florist by passion. Moreover, she reads a lot and different things, but some confusion about the news of her hobby in her head has not yet dissipated.

That is why there are a lot of questions, sometimes unexpected, often well-aimed, methodically written out on a separate piece of paper, with which she usually comes to me.

How to increase the winter hardiness of Oriental lilies, which fall with enviable regularity?

Unfortunately, they fall out more often simply because they are old, and not because they are cold. This is a natural process and should be treated as a given. And the multiplication factor for lilies of this garden class is close to unity (the bulbs are almost

do not share). And the only thing we can do (if we don’t want to mess with scales, and propagating bulbs with scales is not a quick process). - just quietly bribe new ones. Although there is a bit of truth in covering them lightly for the winter, as winter hardiness weakens with age. So, by sprinkling them with leaf or humus for wintering, we can add a couple of years of life to them.

And why did the lily have 54 buds? Can you make the others bloom like that?

I am afraid it is not. Such a huge number of buds and flowers, or rather, the ability to recruit them is inherent in single varieties. And a well-fed onion is capable of this. In essence, this is a stem fused from several buds, which is why there are so many flowers on them. It can be seen that this stem is a ribbed ribbon. The next year, the same bulb will most likely bloom normally.

What about the second wave of rose blooms, does it weaken the bushes, they will not prepare for frost? Maybe cut off the flowers?

With normal care, flowering does not weaken rose bushes. On the contrary, by cutting flowers, we provoke the growth of new shoots, which may not have time to ripen and then freeze. Therefore, at the end of summer, it is advised not to even be too zealous with cutting flowers.

Is it necessary to reduce watering in August, again, in order not to “soften” the plants? Should I stop feeding for the same reason?

With watering, everything is exactly the opposite, the lack of moisture is almost worse than its excess. In trees and shrubs, shoots ripen worse in drought. Excess moisture is harmful against the background of excess nitrogen or already in late autumn, but that's a completely different story.

Lack of nutrition is also not good. Of course, in August they reduce the proportion of nitrogen in top dressing, but they significantly reduce it, there is no need to remove it completely, unless the soil is too “fat”. Dung and herbal infusions, beloved by organists, can already be set aside in August. Do not like chemistry - use ash. There is also potassium and a little phosphorus, but do not forget that there is also a deoxidizing component. And a lot of calcium, which not all cultures like. But talking about top dressing, we find ourselves in the Procrustean bed of average recommendations. Still, according to the mind, the “diet” should be selected a little more targeted, depending on the crop and the condition of the soil. Therefore, it is still better to use ready-made fertilizers, specially “sharpened” for crops and terms of application.

© E.Abrosimova

Our lilies

We live in Belarus, we work at an enterprise for the production of automatic systems drip irrigation for greenhouses. This equipment greatly facilitates the work of summer residents, it is also known in Ukraine. My wife and I also use it on our suburban area. I especially like to grow flowers, they have quite a lot of space.

A large bush of tree-like hydrangea flaunts under the windows; climbing rose, and lilies took center stage. Belarus has an ideal climate for hydrangea, so it grows quickly and always blooms very profusely. The rose pleases with flowering only once a year, but the aroma of its lovely flowers is so delicate that this shortcoming can be forgiven. But we treat lilies with special trepidation.

Although we come to the dacha only on weekends, the lilies do not suffer from this. In our opinion, it is not difficult to grow them. Even novice growers can handle this business. It is only important to purchase healthy planting material. When buying, we carefully inspect each bulb so that there are no stains, damage, or mold on them. We plant lilies depending on the time of acquisition of planting material - in summer, spring or autumn.

They need a sunny place. Our flower garden is just located on the south side of the house and is not shaded by trees. We plant the bulbs in rows, according to the scheme 30 × 30 cm (when planting, it seems that this is quite rare, but lilies love space), to a depth equal to two bulb diameters. The soil in our area is fertile and holds moisture well, so when planting under the bulbs, we pour a thin layer of sand.

In the first two years, we do not feed lilies. We water in the early morning right under the root and only if necessary, in dry weather. Be sure to make sure that there is no stagnation of water. In the natural and climatic conditions of Belarus and Ukraine, these flowers can winter without shelter.

The most important thing in growing lilies is regular weeding. If it is not possible to frequently remove weeds, you can mulch planting lilies with mowed grass, a layer of 10 cm. Mulch not only prevents the growth of weeds, but also prevents the topsoil from drying out. We try to pick flowers with our hands, not cut them with a knife (it is far from always possible to pick a lily by hand, as a rule, you need a knife or pruner for this, especially when it comes to powerful software and LA hybrids). That, in principle, is all that a beginner grower needs to know about growing lilies. Even this minimal care is enough for them. With all our busyness and a rare visit to the dacha, lilies bloom luxuriously in our garden.

Zhanna and Igor SYCHEV, Minsk

Lily at home

Blooming lily right in the house! That's quite possible! There will be no particular difficulties with its cultivation. Moreover, you can adjust the flowering periods and get beautiful buds for solemn family events.

A lily in a pot can be tall (1.5 m) or in the form of a small compact bush (depending on the variety).

It is important to choose the correct size of the pot. Landmark: for a 1.5-meter flower, I take a container 35-40 cm high. With a pot diameter of 40 cm, no more than 4 bulbs can be planted in it (each of them will require a volume of 16 sq. cm for planting). Single landings are not entirely profitable due to the formation of a large number of children. And the lily will bloom in this case only after a few years - as soon as the volume of the pot is filled with young bulbs.

Important Points

It is important to choose the right planting material: the weight of a good bulb should be from 40 g; the presence of live roots about 5 cm long.

1. For growing in a pot, I take lilies of oriental, dwarf, Asian, royal and long-flowered varieties.
2. I pre-stratify the bulbs (I keep them in the refrigerator for 15-20 days) at a temperature of +5 degrees.
3. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water). Then I dry it in the shade.

When is the best time to plant lilies in a pot? There are no strict deadlines in this matter - any season of the year is suitable. If you set yourself the task of decorating the balcony in the summer, plant the bulbs in March (second decade). And already in the second half of May they will delight you with beautiful flowering! Later budding dates will require you to repeat plantings at two-week intervals. Would you like to receive flowers in December? Then plan planting work for the end of September.

Growing lilies - mistakes in care

When I started doing flowers in the distant 1990s, I had no experience, no teachers, no suitable literature. Therefore, I had to fill myself with a lot of bumps before something began to work out. Here are some of my mistakes that I want to tell you so that they are not repeated by those who have just begun to comprehend the basics of floriculture.

1. SURFACE FIT

I bought the first lilies in early March. It was too early to plant them outdoors, so I put the bulbs in the fridge. One of them had a rather large sprout. And then I made my first mistake.

Having pulled the bulb out of the refrigerator, I planted it in a pot, and so that the sprout was above the soil level. Then, when weather conditions allowed, I planted all the bulbs in the ground. Soon the lilies sprang up and quickly began to grow. But the one from the pot seemed to freeze. Then the lilies began to bloom. All bloomed except for the one in the pot. She remained small and somehow tortured. It did not bloom the next year either. Only when I transplanted it (the bulb was small, not at all like the one I once bought), did it bloom. Now I know for sure: planting depth is a very important point, it cannot be neglected. The bulb should be planted at a depth of approximately 3 times its diameter. The presence of a sprout should not change anything, it can be completely covered with soil, the main thing is not to break it.

2. AUTUMN PLANTING OF BULBS WITH SPROUTS

In autumn I bought bulbs with large sprouts. The low price attracted me. The seller encouraged: "Dig deeper, and everything will be fine." Since a trip to the dacha was not planned in the near future, I decided to plant the bulbs in large containers and leave them on the balcony (the volume of the containers resembled buckets). The landing was carried out in accordance with all the rules, the sprouts fell asleep, literally a day later the sprouts appeared above the ground. I put them back to sleep and they reappeared. Then I stopped competing with them and left the lilies alone. When the cold came, I brought the containers home. Some lilies bloomed in a month, one pleased with flowering by Christmas, and a few turned out to be “blind”. This whole story pleased me only by the fact that I did not plant bulbs with sprouts at the end of autumn directly into the ground. After all, then they would surely die. I don’t buy bulbs with sprouts anymore in the fall.

3. WINTERING ON A COLD BALCONY

I decided to once again plant lilies at home so that they bloom in winter or early spring. To do this, I selected large bulbs (I did this at the end of August when transplanting Asian hybrids that bloomed in June), planted them in buckets and left them on the balcony. The plan was this: in winter I will take them from the balcony, put them in a bright place, start pouring warm water, they will wake up faster and bloom. But my plans were not destined to come true - all my bulbs, which wintered well in the open field, froze safely on the balcony. The conclusion is this: if you want to do forcing, containers with bulbs should be lowered into the basement.

4. "DEAF" SHELTER FOR THE WINTER

It is not necessary to cover lilies for the winter. Bulbs in the ground are not afraid of frost, but from excess moisture, condensation that accumulates under unventilated shelters can harm them. Lilies need a dry winter. And it is very easy to arrange it - you need to put caps made of plastic bags over the plants, inverted buckets, or simply cover them with pieces of roofing material, slate, etc., and in early spring do not forget to remove all these structures.

5. RED BUGS-HE PESTS

In the spring, I found very pretty red bugs on my lilies. I didn’t touch them, but they ate my flowers, and even left voracious larvae that completely ruined the plants. It turned out that I admired the onion rattle, and this is a rather dangerous pest for lilies. You need to fight the ratchet with the help of insecticides.

In general, lilies are very hardy, hardy and grateful plants. With a minimum of attention and care, they delight with their flowering for a long time.

Lily - useful properties and recipes for use

A beautiful plant has been growing in my flower garden for a long time - a white lily. During flowering, it exudes a pleasant, rich aroma.

But this plant also has wonderful healing properties and the ability to maintain beauty. During flowering, its beautiful snow-white petals are collected (they require very little). And lily bulbs can be harvested both in autumn and early spring. Here are a few recipes that I use myself.

Mask for "velvet" skin

Pour 2 tbsp. l. fresh crushed white lily petals with a glass of boiling water. Let it brew for about an hour. Strain. 2 tbsp. l. dilute oatmeal with the resulting infusion to get a mushy mass. Add 1 tsp to the resulting slurry. honey, 1 egg yolk, mix. Apply the mask on cleansed, steamed face skin for half an hour, rinse with warm water. Then wipe the skin with the remaining lily infusion. Such a mask nourishes and moisturizes the skin, improves its firmness and elasticity, and lily infusion whitens the skin. After applying the mask, the skin will become velvety and tender.

Lotion for problem skin

Fill a third of a liter dark glass jar with crushed white lily flowers. Top up with alcohol. Leave for about two weeks. With the resulting lotion, you can wipe oily, inflamed skin with acne (previously diluting the alcohol tincture in equal proportions with boiled water) or cauterize pimples and inflammations pointwise, apply a cotton pad soaked in lotion to abscesses and pustules.

Juice for bleaching

Squeeze the juice from two white lily bulbs. Mix with 1 tsp. lemon juice and 2 tsp. parsley juice. Lubricate with juice pigmented areas of the skin, traces of post-acne (skin changes due to a barely long acne), freckles.

Healing oil

Fill half a liter jar of dark glass with white lily petals and pour olive, linseed or peach oil (your choice). Infuse for three weeks in a dark place. With the resulting oil, lubricate very dry areas of the skin, irritated and damaged skin, seizures and cracks in the corners of the lips, dry, cracked skin of the hands (which often happens after working in the garden). The oil also heals wounds and burns on the skin.

Based on this recipe, you can make oil for massage, treatment of back pain: add 1 drop to 1 glass of white lily oil essential oils fir, eucalyptus, pine, carnation. With the resulting composition, you can rub sore joints, massage with back pain.

Boil two white lily bulbs for 10-15 minutes in 1 liter of water. Strain. The resulting decoction can be used to gargle a sore throat, after adding 1 tsp to one glass of decoction. honey. The decoction has an analgesic, expectorant and antimicrobial effect, so it can also be used orally for coughs and bronchitis. For internal use 1 tbsp. l. decoction and 1 tsp. dilute honey in a glass of boiled water and drink, divided into 3 doses (use inside only after consulting a doctor).

Apply gruel from a boiled white lily bulb to skin inflammations, boils, and non-healing wounds.

Yulia Sergeevna KUPINA

If the lilies are sick?

Lilies this year upset more than ever. Some do not bloom at all, the leaves have dried up, do not grow. On others, there are traces of pests: I can’t understand whether these are beetles, or the remains of them. What to do with lilies, can you help them?

Olga Lobova

The root cause of this state of lilies was, of course, frost. The temperature in April days sometimes dropped to -9 degrees, and the shoots of lilies were already on the surface of the earth. They had to be covered with at least a dense spunbond and kept like that until a positive temperature was established.

But who knew that spring this year would bring surprise after surprise. Immediately after the frosts, it was necessary to carry out foliar feeding with phosphorus and potassium, spray the plants with Epin (according to the instructions). All this must be done now, so that the plants are restored. As a result, weakened lilies have become the object of attack by pests, they are affected by viral and fungal diseases.

Note!

Of the fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous, it is easy to identify it by round brown spots on the leaves, which are converted into a mucous tissue with a gray coating. Summer rainy cold weather contributes to its spread. At the first sign of planting, they are treated with solutions of Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol or Oxychoma.

Fusarium is also dangerous when rot affects the bottom of the bulb. Now it is impossible to diagnose the disease, and if no measures are taken, the result will be the death of the bulb in the autumn-winter period. Spray lilies for the prevention of "Fundazol".

As never before this summer, onion and lily beetles, which are also called rattlesnakes, have become more active. To protect themselves from birds, they envelop the body with their excrement (the same blackness on the leaves that you write about) and the birds do not pay any attention to them (pictured).

You need to destroy them manually or by spraying the affected lilies with herbal infusion of wormwood. Pick up grass leaves during the flowering period and fill a bucket with them. Fill with water at room temperature. Insist for a day, then simmer for half an hour. Dilute with water (1:1) and spray.

Raisa RUTKOVSKAYA, lily breeder, Mogilev. Photo by Tatiana Sanchuk

Lily lanceolate (Lilium land folium) - information from the Encyclopedia of Flowers

Description.

This is the well-known tiger lily to all of us - a bulbous plant up to 1.5 m high. The leaves are sessile, lanceolate, located on well-leafed, slightly pubescent stems. Flowers of a beautiful chalmoid form, drooping, with characteristic spots on the inside of the petals, can reach 9 cm in diameter.

The inflorescence can have up to 30 flowers. They bloom in the middle of summer, and beautiful bloom continues for a month. There are varieties with yellow flowers, salmon orange and fiery red.

Agricultural technology.

This lily is quite unpretentious, in our conditions it is winter-hardy and does not require shelter. It is better to plant it in an open area, protected from the wind. The soil prefers loose, fresh, fertile, slightly acidic or neutral. It does not tolerate areas with excessive moisture at all. Bulbs should be planted in autumn to a depth of 15-17 cm.

reproduction.

Propagated by bulbs that bloom in the third year.

Usage.

It is not difficult to find a place for this beautiful, touching lily in a summer cottage. Unlike its pompous grandiflora relatives, the lanceolate lily looks organic in any garden. It is good in itself, planted in small groups.

LILY: RULES FOR SPRING PLANTING

Lilies are not to be missed. But in order for them to grow, bloom and smell fragrant, you need to know a number of secrets. One of them is that without a transplant (every 4-5 years) the flowers degenerate.

Right place

I plant and transplant lily bulbs in spring and autumn. But there are strict rules: I transplant late flowering golden lilies and Henry lilies at the beginning of the season. But North American and Caucasian lilies are best planted from the second half of August to mid-September. In the spring, I plant the bulbs from the last decade of April to the beginning of May (it is important to complete the transplant before the buds appear). Bulbs bought in early spring with small sprouts are wrapped in several layers of newspaper and kept in the refrigerator until planting. If the sprouts are high, I temporarily plant the bulbs in flower pot, and after the threat of frost has disappeared, I carefully roll it into a hole in the garden.

An experienced florist told me that the sun at dawn and in the morning is important for lilies. I also take into account the color of the flowers: for example, my luxurious black lilies quickly fade in the sun. In the hot summer, the bulbs suffer from overheating, so I plant lilies next to low plants. The best soil is loose loam (by eye I add neutral peat and sand in equal parts). For digging (to a depth of 40 cm) for 1 sq.m I bring in a bucket of loose humus, a couple of glasses of wood ash and a complex mineral fertilizer for flowers (according to instructions). Fresh manure and semi-decomposed compost are not suitable!

Spacing between bulbs:

• dwarf lilies -15 cm;
• tall varieties of oriental and Asian hybrids - 50 cm;
• tubular lilies - 35-40 cm.

There is one detail: young onions are best planted on less nutritious soil. In the future, the balance will be replenished by feeding.

LANDING

At the bottom of the holes I pour a small layer of sand. I plant lilies with supra-bulbous (stem) roots to a depth of 15-25 cm. Lilies with subbulbous roots - by 5-10 cm. I deepen snow-white candidum lilies by only 3-5 cm, and warm them with loose compost for the winter.

When purchasing a new bulb, I do not always know what type of root system it has. Then I follow the rule: the depth of planting the bulb is equal to three times its height.

How to grow beautiful lilies - video

: Are there "tree lilies"?HISTORY WITH...

: Buying bulbs - choosing bulbs ...

: Growing lilies in the garden -...

Lily is generally recognized as the queen of the garden. graceful flower of amazing beauty with a magical aroma from time immemorial has been admired by all peoples of the world. There were legends about lilies, they decorated dwellings and temples. Graceful flowers were depicted in ancient frescoes, bas-reliefs and paintings by famous artists. White lily - a symbol of virginity and purity, adorned the canvases depicting the Virgin Mary. That is why in Christianity it is also called the Lily of the Madonna.

But Europe might not have seen this magical flower if the crusaders had not brought it there. Later, under Peter I, the lily began to grow in Russia.

Today, the lily is the most famous bulbous flower crop, numbering more than 6000 hybrid varieties created by crossing different species.

No wonder you want to plant lilies on your personal plot, making its landscaping truly spectacular. Only place them correctly for maximum effect.

As a rule, lilies are planted in the middle or back of the flower garden because of the height of the plant and the beauty of its top. Wherein the foreground is recommended to be decorated with low-growing flowers with attractive leaves that do not lose their decorative effect throughout the season. It can be:

• geranium;
• brunner;
• lavender;
• stakhis and others.

Such flowers will close, yellowed after flowering, the lower part of the lilies, creating a beautiful composition. good decision the flower garden will be planted between lilies of such flowers as aster, echinacea and phlox, blooming in autumn, when the lily bush fades and only the bulb remains.

As for the lilies undersized varieties(not higher than 30 cm), then they look great in the foreground of the flower garden or in the design Alpine slide. The combination of undersized beautiful lilies with stones gives very interesting design solutions. Also a great option is to plant such varieties of lilies in flower containers, which during flowering can be successfully placed on the site, and after the lilies have faded, simply removed.

Without a doubt, you will be captivated by these diverse and unusual beautiful flowers- lilies. Caring for them, moreover, is quite simple and will not cause you much trouble. You just need to know some subtleties and rules.

Bulb selection and storage

Pay attention to which group the lily variety that you like belongs to. There are nine such groups according to the origin and characteristics of the plant. Belonging to a certain group determines the specifics of agrotechnical methods of cultivation.

The appearance of the bulbs is a guarantee of the success of the full growth of the lily. They should be fleshy, large, with a bottom without damage, and the scales should be fresh and not dried out.

Bulbs purchased in early spring should be stored, unpacked, in a cool, dark place or at the bottom of the refrigerator until landing. They need to be monitored regularly. If a sprout has appeared on the bulb, then the package should be pierced in this place for its normal development.

Bulbs purchased in early autumn are stored until planting in a dark room that is well ventilated or ventilated. The last date for planting bulbs in the ground is mid-October.

Planting bulbs

Since lilies grow well in one place up to five years, and frequent transplanting only harms plants, then the place for their growth should be selected very carefully. The best time for planting is mid or late September.

Before planting, the bulbs should be processed. Purchased bulbs should be pickled in a 1% solution of manganese, immersed there for half an hour. Bulbs from their flower garden are thoroughly washed in water and dried scales are removed. Then both are dried and the roots are shortened to a length of 50 mm.

For the normal growth of lilies, nutritious, loose soil is required, which must first be well moistened.

The hole for the bulb is dug in such a way that its depth is three times greater than the diameter of the bulb itself. A handful of sand is poured onto the bottom of the hole, the bulb itself is placed with straightened roots and sprinkled with earth on top. Then, on the surface of this layer of earth, a depression is made with a finger, into which a little granular fertilizer is poured.

The gap between the holes depends on the variety of lilies. If the grown plant is powerful and tall, then the holes should be made with an interval of 20–30 cm. For lilies of undersized varieties, it is enough to make holes every 10–15 cm. Planting is completed by carefully watering the planted plants.

Cultivation and care

Most varieties of lilies prefer full sun, but it must be provided good watering. But it is not at all necessary to choose areas for the growth of lilies that are in the sun all day. It is enough that it illuminates the plants in the morning. In addition, areas in partial shade are also well suited for normal plant growth.

Moderate watering of lilies is necessary throughout the season. You should know that the most intensive watering of lilies is required in the first half of summer and then after they bloom. At this time, the bulb is just beginning to form, accumulating the main nutrients for wintering.

Proper care of lilies, first of all, consists in mulching the soil. This makes it possible to retain its moisture longer and minimize loosening. Supra-bulbous roots and babies on stems are located quite close to the surface. That is why you should not injure them once again by loosening the soil.

Lily fertilizer has a very great importance. In early spring (before the shoots appear), it is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil - ammonium nitrate, a solution of fermented mullein and others. After the first shoots appear, the soil should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture. When buds begin to tie on the bushes, ammonium nitrate is re-introduced into the soil. Throughout the season should be periodically added to the soil wood ash . This gives very good results - lily inflorescences become larger, brighter and more disease resistant.

Cut flowers and stems should also be done according to certain rules. Be sure to leave on the bush most of the stem with leaves, and make the cut obliquely so that rainwater rolls off it. It usually causes stem rot. In autumn, the stems should be cut more intensively, leaving no more than 10-20 cm of their height above the ground.

Further care for lilies is to shelter them for the winter. This should be done when the autumn rainy season ends. The earth is covered first with dry leaves, peat or sawdust, then with a film, which is pressed with spruce branches. In this way, the insulated soil does not freeze for a long time, which contributes to the normal growth of roots all winter. With the onset of spring, the insulation is removed to allow new shoots to hatch.

reproduction

All types of lilies reproduce in the same way - with the help of bulb scales. This makes it possible to increase the number of plants of the variety you like. There are two ways to reproduce.

First way. In autumn, the lily bulb should be carefully dug up and freed from the ground. Then, pressing lightly, it is necessary to separate several healthy, without spots of the upper scales. After that, the place of separation on the bulb is treated with a weak solution of manganese and sprinkled with a mixture of sulfur and charcoal. After this procedure, the bulb is returned to its place and sprinkled with earth.

Obtained in this way flakes are also treated with a weak solution of manganese, then dried, folded into plastic bags with filler and tied well. In this form, they are stored for a month and a half in a dark room at room temperature, and then transferred to a cooler place for a month. After this time, the packages are put in the refrigerator and kept there until planting, which is usually done at the end of July.

Second way. In the spring (early May), the bulbs are also carefully dug up and the scales are separated from them. Then, washed with a weak solution of manganese, they are planted in wooden boxes filled with a nutrient mixture with a small amount of sand. From above, the planted scales are covered with a thin layer of moss or a film and removed for 2–4 months in a greenhouse. After this time, children and leaves are formed. Such bulbs can already be planted in the beds. Before the onset of cold weather, they usually take root well. For the winter they are carefully covered, pouring any insulation on top (dry leaves, peat, sawdust), and putting a film and spruce branches on it.

Most popular varieties

Hybrid varieties of lilies amaze with their quantity and variety. But unfortunately, not all are available to our gardener. The most popular varieties that have proven themselves well in our regions are:

• oriental hybrids: Set Point (white-pink), Star Class (white-pink with yellow tips), Time-out (white-yellow) and Barbados (crimson-white);
• Asian hybrids: Gitana (red-yellow), Kansas (yellow), Kentucky (white-pink), Lollipon (coffee with scarlet tips) and Grand Cru (bright yellow with red tips);
• la hybrids: Royal Parade (red), Royal Club (pink-coffee), Bestseller (apricot) and Aerobic (lemon).

If the place of the queen of the garden is still vacant on your personal plot, then it's time to eliminate this unfortunate misunderstanding. Lily will fill your garden with amazing fragrance and the charm of elegant flowers., delighting and delighting with its beauty almost all summer.

We offer you a photo of lily bulbs:

What lily seeds look like - photo:

And these photos will show what lily tubers look like:

How to grow from seed?

Growing lilies from seeds at home is not difficult. You can buy seeds at special store or pre-assemble yourself. The method is painstaking, but effective. He is considered the most safe- the risk of disease is reduced to a minimum.

Preparation process

The collection is made exclusively only in healthy plants - brown seed pods are selected that have not yet been opened. One contains up to 200 pieces. Seeds that are already ripe are oval-shaped, brown in color, slightly oblong. They are 5 mm long and 1 mm thick.

Planting is possible immediately after collection, but cold pre-treatment is desirable - at a temperature of 2-4 degrees for several weeks.

How is the sowing going?

The best time for him the end of March. will bloom lily on expiration 1.5-2 years after the first sprouts sprout.

How to sow?

A detailed diagram of how to grow lilies from seeds at home:

• A land mixture is being prepared - coarse-grained sand, sheet and sod land in equal shares and charcoal;
• drainage is laid on the bottom of the seedling box, soil is poured on top;
• seeds are sown at intervals of 1-1.5 cm and sprinkled with sand;
• accurate watering is carried out;
• the box is covered with glass or film.

At the same time, a temperature regime of 20-25 degrees is maintained and a dark place is chosen for germination.

Growing from bulbs

At the time of their purchase, they are primarily drawn Attention on how they look.

Bulbs are ideal without damage, with good density and hardness.

Their roots should be alive, and the diameter should be from 4 cm.

Previously, the bulbs are placed in the refrigerator for 1-2 months to peck the sprouts.

Next, the bottom of the tank is laid out with a drainage layer of 5 cm - expanded clay, pebbles or broken bricks. The next layer is a soil mixture, up to 10 cm thick. Bulbs are placed with sprouts up and sprinkled with a soil layer of 18-20 cm. The soil is moistened with warm water. From it to the side, the distance in height should be about 7-8 cm, so that you can add the earth after germination.

Any season is suitable for planting.

Bloom will be observed after 2-3 months with proper lighting. Choose a moist and warm place, watering is recommended at intervals of 4 days.

You can visually familiarize yourself with how to grow lilies from bulbs in the video below:

How to grow from tubers?

First, they are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Next, a place is selected - it should be partial shade. The bottom of the container is laid out with pebbles or brick chips so that excess moisture does not stagnate. The root system does not need to be cut. Tubers are planted in small holes and sprinkled with peat and prepared soil.

planting depth commensurate with the bulb itself - the distance from the top layer is three times its height. For low species, this is about 12 cm, medium - up to 15, and high - within 21, taking into account the normal acidity of the soil.

Watering moderate is needed. The rooting process should take place at a temperature of + 5-10 degrees. From the moment of planting to the beginning of flowering, 3-4 months will pass. When the sprout reaches a height of 10 cm, soil is poured into the container, leaving 1-2 cm to the edge. It must be loosened - the top layer is 3-4 cm for regular air intake.

Growing in a pot

In it, the lily grows up to 1.5 meters or takes the form of a compact bush. Consider how to grow lilies in a pot.

Breeding at home

Before growing lilies in pots, it is important to follow several steps:

• planting material is carefully selected - the bulbs are taken strong, weighing from 40 grams;
• a variety of lilies is selected;
• stratification is carried out at a temperature of +5 degrees for two weeks;
• planting material is soaked in potassium permanganate for a couple of hours and for 12 hours in fertilizers.

The pot is used in accordance with agricultural standards.

The higher the flower, the larger the landing capacity. With the growth of a lily of 1.5 meters, the walls of the pot should be at least 35-40 cm high. One seat occupies up to 15 sq.cm. For a pot with a radius of 20 cm, the maximum number of tubers is 4 pieces.

Before planting in a pot is selected the required composition of the soil is soddy soil and humus in equal proportions. Drainage is laid out at the bottom, and soil composition is laid out on top. Next, the container is disinfected with boiling water with fungicides and potassium permanganate. Planting material is deepened into the soil mixture and moderately watered. When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, you can feed them.

Start growing potted lilies, and they will delight for a long time with luxurious flowering and a pleasant fragrance.