Bath in a change house with their own hands. Bath from a metal change house

The change house is perfect for temporary residence during the construction of a full-fledged house. But even after the completion of the main construction work, the change house will not be left out of work. It can be equipped under the budget country house, a place to store various equipment, work clothes, bicycles and other household supplies.

Ready-made change houses are relatively inexpensive. But why spend money if such a structure can be built on their own by buying only necessary materials and tools? We offer you instructions for arranging a change house made of wood, a finished trailer and a metal profile. Choose the option you like and get to work.

The change house is a secondary utility room, but you should not take the process of its construction and arrangement too lightly.

Choose the size of the building and its layout at your discretion. Typically, designs industrial production, intended for living, have a length of about 5-6 m, a height of about 2.5 m and a similar width. For the rest, in relation to the dimensions of the house and its layout, be guided by your needs and preferences.

Choosing a place to build a change house

When choosing a place for our house, we take into account a couple of important points.

First, we think whether we will transport the structure somewhere in the future. For example, you are going to build a light house for a couple of seasons, and then move it to another place. If moving is included in your plans, it is best to place a change house as close as possible to the exit from the site.

Secondly, we determine the purpose of the premises. If the change house will be used only as a shed for storing various tools and other household supplies, it is best to install it approximately in the center of the long side of the main house so that it can be easily reached from either side of the site.

Helpful advice! If you do not exclude that in the future the change house will be converted to, build it in a remote secluded corner of the site, keeping in mind the rules against fire safety.

Making the foundation

We will have the same for all three cabins. The only exception is a ready-made trailer on wheels - you don’t need to build a foundation for it.

We make the base as follows:

• get rid of the top fertile soil layer;
• we tamp the bottom and walls of the resulting pit;
• we cover the pit with geotextiles;
• pour a layer of sand over the geotextile and carefully tamp it down;
• symmetrically arrange the cinder blocks on the resulting pillow;
• wrap each support with a layer of roofing material.

Important! If you plan to attach to a change house small porch, provide for the installation of supports for it at the same stage.

Building a wooden house

Let's start building the frame of our change house. First, we lay a wooden beam around the perimeter of the future structure, as well as in its center to further strengthen the structure.

We connect the opposite sides of the beam. To do this, we fasten the logs with the beam of the lower harness. You can connect with any in a suitable way. Joints using the tenon-groove method, using metal corners and anchors, have proven themselves well. We preliminarily made selections for connecting the elements and additionally strengthened the fastening points with nails.

We mount vertical corner and intermediate racks. We install intermediate supports with a meter step. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 15x15 mm. Don't forget to leave a hole for the door. For a reliable connection of the frame elements, we use metal corners and self-tapping screws. At the same stage, we set supporting pillars for the future porch, if its presence is provided for by the design of the change house.

Important! The height of the vertical supports on the back and front sides of the change house should differ by about 50 cm. This difference will provide an optimal roof slope and precipitation will not linger on it.

We mount the top harness. Support racks of our change house have different height, so we work as follows: first we lay the beam along the tops of the higher supports, then we connect the low racks and set the side crossbars perpendicular to them. Connections are made according to the already familiar method with samples and nails.

Laying floor beams

As a result, our frame will be divided into a number of rectangular sections. To strengthen the structure, we connect the opposite lower and upper corner each such section with jibs from boards.

We fix the rafter beams to the upper roof lathing. We use the most even boards so that in the future it will be easier to make the crate. We mount the rafters with a step of about 500-600 mm. We pay Special attention the strength of the joints on the beams of the roofing.

We construct it so that it protrudes slightly beyond the boundaries of the frame. This will allow us to equip back side change houses base for drainage, and mount a visor on the front part.

Material for finish coat Roofs of your choice. For example, it will work well. We lay it with an overlap, starting from the bottom of the slope. Before laying ondulin, lay out a continuous crate of boards and attach a waterproofing film over them. Instead of ondulin, you can use slate or other material of your choice.

Change house from a construction trailer

Don't feel like messing around with frame assembly and other related activities? You can buy a ready-made trailer and equip it for a change house. Such trailers do not even need their own foundation - you just need to carefully level the site and install a container (cart).

If you are equipping a used trailer for a change house, carefully examine its condition. Clean off traces of rust, replace severely damaged skin elements with similar ones, weld patches on through holes, cover the metal with a special primer and paint.

The installed structure must be insulated. The rest of the arrangement is at the discretion of the owner. These points will be discussed separately below.

You can also buy a trailer on wheels. The option is mobile and very convenient to use. After completing all the arrangements for the arrangement of such a trailer, it is installed on the frame from the trailer.

We build a change house from a metal profile

Building a frame from a metal profile will require more effort compared to building a wooden counterpart. But the iron change house will last much longer.

Kit necessary tools includes:

• a hammer;
• apparatus for welding;
• drill;
• screwdrivers;
• corner;
• grinder;
• brushes;
• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• hacksaw.

We also buy the following items:

• profiled pipe with dimensions of 2x2 cm, 4x2 cm, 4x4 cm and 4x6 cm;
• mounting rail 2x4 cm;
• sheet galvanized steel;
• corrugated board;
• primer for metal;
• self-tapping screws for fixing corrugated board;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• staples for a construction stapler;
• rivets;
• OSB boards;
• mounting foam.

Making the foundation

We will assemble the base of the frame from a pipe measuring 4x6 cm. We cut the pipes in accordance with the dimensions of the building being erected.

We weld pipes according to external dimensions and get a rectangular edging. In total, we need to make 2 such identical rectangles. From one we will make the floor, from the other the upper part of the change house.

To make the floor reliable, we create a grid of the same profiled pipes inside the rectangle. We make a change house with a width of 250 cm. With such dimensions, it is enough to weld 2-3 longitudinal pipes inside the edging for the entire length. We weld transverse pipes every 50 cm.

Next, we take a galvanized sheet and fix it with self-tapping screws to the base of our change house. We turn the base over and lay it with a galvanized sheet down on cinder block supports or just a leveled area. The structure may not be attached to the cinder block - the change house will be sufficiently held by its own weight.

We mount racks

Rack installation

Rack installation

We make vertical supports from a 4x4 cm pipe. We cut it into pieces in accordance with the planned height of the change house. Usually it is 250 cm.

We expose the first supports at the corners of the base constructed at the previous stage. We check that the angle at the junction of the racks with the base is strictly straight.

We fix the aligned rack by welding. Similarly, we expose the racks in the remaining corners.

Additionally, we will need to install intermediate racks. To do this without violating the geometry of the structure, we take the second rectangular tube base made in the previous step and lay it on top of the corner posts.

We scald the resulting “cube” with intermediate racks and struts. First, we take pieces of a professional pipe 4x4 cm along the height of the structure and weld them vertically between the lower and upper bases. The recommended installation step is 100 cm. At the same stage, we provide an opening for the door.

We weld a horizontal cross member in a circle of the supporting structure. The pipe must be welded to uprights at a height equal to half the height of the change house.

We make spacers from a 2x4 cm profiled pipe. Cut it into 30 cm pieces. We cut each edge of the workpiece at a 45-degree angle. We scald all the corners of the structure with the resulting spacers. Additionally, we can scald the floor with them.

We make a roof

We made the bottom part of the frame and the wall. Next, we are engaged in the manufacture of the "skeleton" of the roof.

Farms are made in the form of isosceles triangles. We use a 2x4 cm pipe. The recommended truss installation step is 1 m. We weld them along the length of the frame. We cover the roof with a profiled sheet. If you wish, you can use another material of your choice.

All metal elements We cover the frame with a special primer, and after it dries, we apply the paint of the desired color.

Arrangement of a change house

We mount windows and doors (it is better to purchase them in ready-made). It is desirable that the windows have swing structure and there were at least two of them - you don’t have to waste time installing additional ventilation. Let's move on to the furnishing of our house.

Making the floor

First, we build a rough floor from boards processed. We lay them out as tightly as possible to each other and attach them to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Spread over the boards. We fasten it to the lags using a construction stapler with staples.

We nail additional logs to the base for laying thermal insulation and fastening the second layer of boards. We fasten the lags in increments equal to the width of the selected thermal insulation material. Mineral wool is well suited for floor insulation - a relatively inexpensive and time-tested heat-insulating material.

We lay the insulation in the space between the lags. From above we fix a layer of vapor barrier material. A stapler with staples will again help us with this.

Laying floor boards. We fasten them to the lags with self-tapping screws. At the end, we cover the floor with varnish or paint.

We carry out external cladding

The trailer can be left without sheathing, but the construction of wood or metal will require mandatory external finishing. Let's not just leave the bare frame, shall we?

We cover the frame with a waterproofing film. We carefully glue the joints of the waterproofing strips with adhesive tape. For outer skin walls suitable for many different materials:

• wooden boards;
• composite panels;
• siding, etc.

Choose at your discretion. Change houses sheathed with a block house also look very beautiful.

Sheathing of a metal change house with a professional sheet

Important! The section of the frame reserved for the porch is not sheathed.

Interior decoration

We lay in the space between the racks of the frame. We cover it with a layer of vapor barrier material. We attach the vapor barrier to the frame in a suitable way.

On top of the frame we fill the transverse rails to fix the insulation. We attach the selected material of the inner lining to the same rails. Most often for interior decoration lining is used. Otherwise, focus on your preferences and available budget.

Electricity

We will not pull full-fledged wiring into the change house. Such buildings are not capital and do not need such equipment. But how in this case to organize at least lighting and heating? A good extension cord with a cord of suitable length will help us with this. We turn it on to the nearest available source of electricity and pull it into the change house.

In a change house, we can include a tee in such an extension cord for greater convenience and the ability to use several electrical appliances at once.

Lighting

We arrange at our discretion. In general, a few are enough for a change house. simple lamps installed in the main functional areas.

Water supply

For maximum convenience of operation of the change house, we carry water into it. We will not make capital expensive water supply. It is enough to connect a flexible hose to a water supply source, insert it into the change house through a previously prepared hole in the wall and equip it with a tap to shut off the water.

We can install a compact one near the hose attachment point. Special bulk models are available on the market. It is enough to remove the top cover from such a tank, fill the tank with water from a hose, plug the heating unit into a socket, and after shortest time use warm water at your discretion. If desired, a hose with a shower head can be easily connected to such a water heater.

A compact sink will not be superfluous in a change house. We fix it to the wall in a convenient place. We connect a corrugation to the drain of the sink to divert water. We bring the corrugation through a pre-arranged hole in the floor and connect it to the sewer pipe. Through sewer pipe water will go into drain hole or any other designated place.

Heating

We do electric heating. A budget option- pair . More costly and efficient oil heater or convector. Power heating unit We select in accordance with the area of ​​​​our change house.

In conclusion, we will only have to furnish the room. At this point, we focus entirely on our preferences and needs.

Parameter		Metal change house
Price	Cheaper. For additional cost savings natural wood can be replaced with wood boards.	Expensive. Metal is more expensive.
Durability	Serves less than metal. Wood does not tolerate moisture well.	Serves well for decades.
Mobility	It is easier to transport, but there is no guarantee that the wooden structure will normally withstand transportation.	Transportation is more difficult, but safer.
Possibility of installation of communications and additional elements	Can. More difficult.	Can. Easier.
Environmental friendliness	Eco-friendly	Less environmentally friendly when compared with wooden cabins.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself change house

After completion of all construction work, on the site near finished house, can remain not only construction garbage, but also buildings, which in themselves are quite reliable, but their use in the future is quite difficult. Do not rush to get rid of such a structure, because you can get an excellent bathhouse from a change house. This task will be simplified by the presence of practically finished construction which will need to be improved. Of course, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort, but there will be nothing overly complicated in such a process.

Stages of re-equipment of a change house under a bath

All work should be divided into several stages in order to rationalize the cost of time and effort. It’s not worth grabbing everything at once, so you need to speculatively determine the field of activity and get to work

A solid foundation is half the battle

As a rule, change houses do not have a good foundation. This is actually not necessary because the building is temporary. In our case, such a structure will be refurbished, so we need a good, strong foundation. For a bath, a ventilated base would be the best option, since the room is specific. High humidity and temperature should not adversely affect the structure.

This problem can be solved very simply. You can use pile foundation. First, it's not that hard to make. Secondly, it is quite reliable. Here is the algorithm to follow:

1. We mark the territory that will be reserved for the bath;
2. Along the perimeter of the future building and along interior walls we make recesses for piles. The distance between them should be approximately 1.5 m. Piles can be either special products having direct appointment, and asbestos or metal pipes.
3. Supports are dug into the ground. At the same time, you need to keep an eye on top part all piles were on the same plane. To better fix the pipes, they need to be sprinkled with crushed stone and gravel.
4. When the supports are installed, we begin to lay timber on them, which will be the basis of the future bath.

If you are planning to make a bath from a change house with your own hands, this can save you a lot of money, since the costs of such work can be very high.

The frame of the future bath

Now it's time to work directly with the original design. The materials from which the change house is made are not suitable for a bath, because they will hardly withstand high temperatures and humidity. In addition, some types of finishes under such influence can highlight harmful substances. For this reason, it is necessary to remove all the old trim. As a result, one frame should remain. There is a positive point in this - the weight of the structure will decrease, which means that it will be much easier to install it on the base.

The materials that remain after dismantling can be used in other projects. For example, if a bath from a change house is made for a summer residence, then it will be possible to make a gazebo, arch or sandbox for children from them.

Installing the frame on the base

To cope with this difficult task, it will be necessary to hire special equipment. This will require some cash costs, but you can’t do without it. During operation, you should pay attention to the accuracy of the installation, then it will be impossible to redo something. After the frame is installed on the base, it will need to be fixed. This is done with bolts or studs. Everything around the perimeter must be done securely.

Before placing the frame on the foundation, make sure that after installation there will be no debris under the structure. It is desirable that the area under the bath was flat, that ventilation was effective.

Bath interior and exterior

After the work with the frame is completed, you need to start restoring the finish. Here are the steps to pay special attention to:

• External finishing. It can be done with any materials, the easiest way to do this is from lining or siding.
• Interior decoration. Traditionally, inside the bath there should be hardwood. The easiest option is lining.
• Bath insulation. We are talking about both thermal insulation and installation of waterproofing. Styrofoam is perfect for walls, it is not susceptible to moisture and holds heat well. To resist moisture to the structure, it will be necessary to use materials that have water-repellent properties.
• Installation of equipment. This is the last thing you can do. It is necessary to conduct electricity in the bathhouse, heating (if necessary) and supply water.

The design itself is hardly suitable for the construction of a full-fledged sauna stove, so you can replace it with electrical equipment.

In general, this is all you need to know about how to convert a change house into a bathhouse in in general terms. Of course, this is a very large amount of work, which is quite difficult, but it can be done if you approach it wisely and distribute the whole process into stages. You can see how the baths from the change house look in the photo below.

If desired, an old decommissioned trailer may well be converted into a small building used as a bathhouse in a suburban area. suburban area. The advantages of such a choice are quite obvious, since a bathhouse from a trailer will not require any special efforts and significant costs from you. After installation at the place of permanent operation, you will only have to insulate the walls and ennoble the appearance.

In this article, we will look at how to make a bath from a trailer with our own hands, and also give photo and video instructions.

When arranging such a building, you should always remember that its separate rooms (washing room, steam room and dressing room) must be reliably isolated from one another - this will ensure the required regime in the steam room.

Foundation preparation

In the event that you expect to receive a solid building suitable for use in winter period- you will have to worry not only about reliable insulation, but also about preparation foundation under her. The choice of the latter is determined, as a rule, by the characteristics of the soil at the location of your future bath.

Note that for the situation we are considering (if the soil at the place where the bath is arranged is dense enough), it is quite acceptable to use options lightweight strip or column foundation, prepared to a shallow depth.

It is also very important to pay attention to the fact that the height of the foundation base you have chosen is at least 35–40 cm. Only in this case is it possible to insulate the bottom of the building through the use of additional bedding.

Well, if you plan to make a bath-wagon in a mobile version, you can not make a special foundation for it at all, limiting yourself to simple supports made of reinforced concrete slabs.

Foundation arrangement

Before proceeding with the installation and conversion of the trailer for a bath, you should clearly determine its location, after which it will be necessary to carry out the following preparatory operations:

• clean the place of your choice from stumps and debris;
• to level and compact the soil at the location of the future bath-trailer;
• prepare a frame from a 20 × 20 cm timber and install it on concrete blocks or brick columns;
• sheathe the prepared frame with edged boards.

Upon completion of the preparatory operations, you can go directly to the finishing of the trailer.

Conversion procedure

Getting the truck in order

To turn an old decommissioned trailer into a full-fledged bath, it will be necessary to make every effort, associated, in particular, with the arrangement of a well-insulated and thoroughly insulated steam room.

To do this, first of all, you should carefully examine the trailer for the presence of visually distinguishable defects (cracks, potholes and holes) in its walls, floor and ceiling and try to repair them with a suitable building material.

Note that when carrying out repair and insulation work, you will have to deal with one of the following types of typical wagon buildings:

• metal welded structure;
• wooden frame, lined with clapboard or chipboard.

Refurbishment and insulation

To insulate a metal trailer, you will need to refine its design. This revision will consist in the preparation (welding to the metal frame) of special plates with holes necessary for fixing wooden beams. By mounted in this way wooden frame subsequently, insulation and finishing of the building will be carried out; in this case, the insulation is supposed to be laid in the space between the individual bars.

For insulation of outdoor and internal surfaces trailer (its doors, ceiling, walls and floor), you can use such common protective materials as basalt wool, polyurethane or "Izover".

Note! When applied mineral wool the surface to be protected is pre-closed polyethylene film or glassine, used as a waterproofing, which excludes moisture from entering the insulation.

Outside, the insulation can be closed with an edged board or trimmed with siding.

Do not forget that the floor of the converted building is also subject to mandatory insulation, produced using special polyurethane sheets, on top of which it is laid batten. AT winter time such a floor structure will protect the interior spaces of the trailer from severe frosts, and will also allow you to keep the heat inside its premises.

As for the choice heating equipment for a steam room of a converted trailer, then in such cases, typical fireplace stoves are most often used. Video and photo baths from construction trailer you can see at the end of the article.

The purpose of the change house is the temporary residence of builders during the construction of the house. But when the construction is completed, such a structure as a change house may appear. You can easily turn a device that has fulfilled its function into a necessary and useful household element on your own, with a little imagination and work.

A small bath-change house is a well-thought-out and tested structure. Moreover, such structures are sold ready-made in both stationary and mobile versions. If the change house remained after construction and does not find the desired purpose, then you should not use it to store various junk - it is much more efficient to make a small, but solid and comfortable bathhouse out of it, which will last for many years.

Features of the change house

In general, the change house is a mobile room small size for temporary residence of people or for the performance of other functions during construction work(office, warehouse, etc.). The standard change house is issued in metal and wooden facilitated option. Such structures can have wheeled chassis, skids, or be mounted on a frame that acts as a temporary foundation.

Metal change houses or block containers are made on the basis of metal frame from a channel, which is sheathed from above on all sides with galvanized corrugated board. Wooden structures usually made from pine on the basis of a frame of beams with a shield or lath sheathing. The usual dimensions of the change house: width 2.3 - 2.5 m (most often 2.3 m), length 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 m; height - 2.5 - 2.8 m.

The standard complete set of a wooden change house includes the following elements:

1. Frame: pine timber 50x50 mm in size.
2. Sheathing: internal and external lining from a pine. The inner lining can be made of hardboard.
3. Roof: flat, covered with ruberoid, mineral wool insulation (layer thickness 5 cm);
4. Ceiling: sheets of hardboard.
5. Walls, floor and ceiling are insulated with mineral wool and parchment vapor barrier;
6. Double floor: rough from unedged boards 25 mm thick, finishing - edged board 25 mm thick.
7. One door, wooden frame. Sheathing: outside - lining, inside - hardboard.
8. Windows: one or two, depending on the length of the change house, size 75x75 cm, single glazing.

Bath design

In order to make a bath out of a change house, first of all, it is necessary to develop its project based on the available area. Best Options- change houses 6 or 7 m long. Figure 1 shows possible plans the location of the baths. (Fig. 1. Sauna placement plan)

The optimal version of the bath includes such rooms (compartments): a vestibule, a dressing room, a steam room, a washing compartment (shower), a relaxation area. With a change house length of 7 m, you can find a place for all compartments. With a smaller size, it should be remembered that the bath is primarily a steam room, and other compartments are formed based on the actual area. It is also important to have a place where a person washes a steamed body, and a place where you can take off your clothes. In addition to the steam room, in all other bath rooms you can combine functional features.

When developing a project, it must be taken into account that the change house must have sewer drain water and independent power supply. The heart of the bath is the stove (usually electric metal), so there is important condition- Ensuring fire safety during the operation of the sauna stove. Desirable condition - plumbing; otherwise, you will have to heat the water in a container on the sauna stove.

In the floor of the steam room, before its manufacture, it is necessary to mount a drain system: a drain trapik and a discharge pipe. To ensure the self-flow of water, the pipe must have a slope (at least 2 cm per meter of length). Optimum floor coverage ceramic tile, but you can also make a wooden coating. Design floor covering should have a general slope towards drain hole trapika. When installing the floor of the steam room, it is necessary to apply waterproofing and insulation to the finished floor of the change house, and the layers of waterproofing are located above and below the insulation.

The door to the steam room is best made of tempered glass with sealing door frame. wooden door can be used, but it will swell and warp when exposed to superheated steam. The most common door size is 70x190 cm.

Other bath rooms

All other bath rooms are in gentle conditions, but with the possible penetration of a cloud of steam, a certain humidity and temperature changes. A shower is installed in the washing compartment, which ensures the presence of moisture.

With this in mind, and in order to ensure comfortable conditions the walls and ceiling of these compartments are also covered with a vapor-tight layer (one is enough), waterproofing and insulation.

The floor in the shower is usually tiled and equipped with a drain system similar to that of a steam room. Tambour is recommended to be made for areas with a cold climate; it can be additionally attached to a change house.

Bath foundation

The advantage of a bath from a change house is its solid frame base and lightweight design, which does not require a powerful foundation.

The task of the foundation of such a bath is not to ensure strength, but to level the structure horizontally.

The most common base for a change house is a series of cinder blocks around the entire perimeter. Thus, the bath floor rises by almost 30 cm, which provides ventilation and the possibility of laying a sewer drain.

If a stationary location of the bath is planned for a long time, then a columnar foundation can be recommended. In this case, with a step of 1.2 - 1.5 m, piles from asbestos-cement pipes are driven in and reinforced with concrete mortar. The change house is installed on such piles and attached to them.

Necessary tool for work

If you decide to remake a change house for a bath, you need to take care of the following tool in advance:

• Bulgarian;
• Grinder;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• a hammer;
• shovel;
• Master OK;
• putty knife;
• plane;
• scissors;
• furniture stapler;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• construction level;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• metal ruler.

Making a bath from a change house

A do-it-yourself bath from a change house is done in the following order:

1. Site selection and project development.
2. Summing up communications (electricity, water supply) and installation of a sewer drain.
3. Foundation device.
4. Installing the change house on the foundation and fixing it.
5. Eliminate all interior coatings walls, ceiling, floor of a change house of a standard complete set.
6. Manufacturing of internal wooden partitions, forming bath rooms according to their functional purpose.
7. Laying the sewer system inside the bath.
8. Production of flooring: waterproofing, insulation, tile by crate.
9. The imposition of vapor barrier layers, waterproofing and insulation on the walls.
10. Installation of internal electrical wiring: laying waterproof and heat-resistant wires in sealed boxes and corrugated hoses.
11. Installation of ceiling coverings.
12. Cladding of walls and ceiling with clapboard.
13. Making a shelf in the steam room.
14. Installation of protective sheets on the floor and wall, installation of a stove-heater.
15. Door installation.
16. Installation of the ventilation system.
17. Shower cubicle installation.
18. Manufacture and installation of bath furniture, installation of sealed sockets and switches, installation of sealed fixtures.

If necessary, an additional production of the vestibule is carried out in the form of an extension and an additional gable roof.

After the purchase land plot the pleasant chores begin associated with the planning of the site, the choice of the project, the purchase of the necessary building material. As you know, construction is not a quick business, but with limited finances it can stretch for many years. Well, how, having a plot, not to relax, not to fry kebabs with friends, to spend a pleasant time on it while construction is underway? Good vacation can be organized on your site with a minimum of necessary buildings.

The first thing that appears on the site and is the number one building is the toilet. Nowhere without him. For a comfortable stay in the warm season, an ordinary construction change house is suitable. And how to diversify and supplement the rest on the site with a Russian bath, which you can do with your own hands from a change house or container, we will consider in this article.

Good wooden bath from a log or timber is not cheap, and the construction of such a bath will take at least two years, and you want to take a steam bath with a broom, and you want fragrant steam today.

Not very expensive, a change house can be purchased outside the construction season, that is, in winter, or you can buy a used one. The change house does not need a powerful foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks. The number of possible rooms in the future bath will depend on the size of the change house. In a small change house, it will be possible to place only a steam room and a rest room or a washing room, and even a toilet in a large one. When buying a change house, which is subsequently planned to be converted into a bathhouse, you need to pay attention not only to its size, but also to the insulation of the walls, floor and ceiling. The minimum thickness of the insulation in the wall must be at least ten centimeters. If the thickness of the insulation is less, then the entire frame of the change house will have to be redone, since the timber for it is selected based on the thickness of the insulation. For longer preservation of heat in the steam room, it is necessary to additionally lay foil insulation along the walls, and glue the joints with foil tape. In inexpensive change houses, inside the walls are usually finished with hardboard, which is not suitable for a bath. In this case, the walls of the change house will have to be redone with your own hands and sewn up. wooden clapboard. This will not be very difficult to do, since there is no need to equip the crate. The lining can be fixed directly to the frame of the change house. To finish the steam room in the bath, lime lining is usually used. It does not contain resin and does not emit harmful substances when heated.

The electrical wiring in the part of the change house where the steam room will be located must be replaced with a heat-resistant one. The lamps will also need to be replaced with heat-resistant ones. For greater safety and to avoid fire, it is necessary to install switch box with RCD (residual current device) and automatic machines.

Bath furniture can also be made with your own hands from wooden planks, which will probably remain superfluous during construction. For a couple of benches and a table, you don’t need a lot of them.

From the outside, you can not touch the trailer and leave everything as it is, but if you really want to give it the look of a real log sauna, then you can fork out for the House block. Its installation can also be done by hand. Old finish(vagoku, profiled sheet) will need to be dismantled and the House block attached to the existing frame.

To give a more aesthetic appearance to the bathhouse from the change house, it is better to remake the roof to a gable roof, if it was not there initially. To do this, you can not disassemble the old roof, but immediately make rafters along it. To make a crate along the rafters and cover the roof roofing material(profiled sheet, metal tile). For more have a nice time spending on the site and using the bath from the change house as a gazebo, you can attach a spacious veranda to it with your own hands. To do this, we need several concrete blocks instead of a foundation and several bars 100 by 100 mm. We make from bars bottom harness, part of which we attach to the change house. From the same bars we make racks and the upper harness according to the principle of the lower one. We put the rafters and cover the roof. If the roof is made gable, common with a change house, then it will turn out to be quite a residential second floor.

The case is small - it remains to purchase and install the oven. The choice of stove will depend on the size of the steam room. The larger the steam room, the more powerful and expensive the stove. For a bath from a change house as it is impossible better fit a wood-burning stove, the so-called heater.

As you can see, it is not expensive and useful to make a bath from a change house with your own hands. And if you fantasize a little with external decoration, then it may well turn out to be a masterpiece that will remain forever on your site.