Insulation of a brick steam room with a tree. Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times over in terms of quality. First, the brick does not burn. Secondly, it is not at all afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from the penetration of cold air. Therefore, such a process as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation from the outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bath is built right next to some other building. Or a brick wall acts as a facade finish. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bath is heated intermittently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warm the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - warming a brick bath from the inside.

Insulation options

Immediately make a reservation that there are a large number of different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

• The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
• Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
• Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimal thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

• After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
• And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.

• Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
• Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. Such a thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
• And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If “yes”, then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.

• And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Insulation of other building elements

In addition to walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is also required. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to the compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, the foundation will have to be insulated.

The easiest option is to glue foam boards to its inner surfaces. Their thickness of 5-7 cm is the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the slots with mounting foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were proposed, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. Here it is important to accurately follow the stages of ongoing construction operations, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

Quite often, bathhouses are built of bricks. During their construction, one of the important stages is the insulation of a brick bath from the inside. The fact is that walls made of this material cannot retain heat for a long time.

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, proceed to the interior decoration of the building. Insulation of a brick bath must be done in such a way that the optimal microclimate and temperature conditions are maintained in the premises for a long time. Also, decorative wall decoration helps to keep the heat inside the building.

Usually, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside is done by installing a multi-layer heat-insulating structure. One of its layers is laid from plates, and the other from rolled materials coated on the basis of foil, since this type of thermal protection perfectly reflects IF radiation and protects the insulation from the negative effects of moist air.

In order to perform this work qualitatively, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath and how to properly insulate the bath from the inside.

Experts advise using the following materials:

• mineral wool in rolls or slabs;
• glass wool;
• peat or cellulose slabs of porous structure;
• reed mats;
• boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials based on polystyrene, like glass wool, do not have good heat resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when the steam room is insulated in a brick bath, in particular its walls and ceiling. To reduce heat loss through the floor covering, a layer of expanded clay is used as an additional heat insulator.

Foil-based heaters have proven themselves well. As you know, materials such as foil film are expensive, so kraft paper can be used for interior decoration of bath rooms with a low degree of humidity. The result is savings. For example, in a rest room for insulation, you can use cheaper materials.

Thermal insulation of the floor in brick baths

Insulation options that are suitable for baths under construction are not suitable for thermal protection of bath buildings in which the old bath is being overhauled. But the sequence of work in both cases has much in common.

When a brick bath is insulated from the inside, the scheme provides that it is necessary to start work from the floor covering. Thermal protection of the floor is needed, since a person moves barefoot on its surface, which means that it should be warmed up as much as possible.

Before you insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create an air gap between the foundation of the building and the floor covering. Thus, sufficient thermal insulation will be ensured.

When arranging the gap, support bars are installed on the base of the room, and expanded clay is poured between them, the layer of which should be approximately 2 times the thickness of the walls in the building. On top of the supporting elements, logs are mounted, made of wooden beams, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Plates of heat-shielding materials are placed between them, and the gaps formed during operation between the lags and the insulation layer should be eliminated by using polyurethane foam. Then you need to lay glassine on the floor, and on top of it make a flooring of plywood sheets or boards. Mount the main floor covering at the final stage.

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

After the completion of the thermal insulation of the floor, they begin to create protection for the walls. Before insulating a brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the growth of bacteria, the walls in them are impregnated with special agents. This procedure is required only for processing some rooms - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

1. To reduce the degree of heat loss, the gaps between windows and walls are eliminated with polyurethane foam.
2. The frame on which the sheathing is mounted is constructed from wooden beams and fixed directly on the brickwork.
3. It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in work, since they have the property of conducting thermal energy.
4. Mineral wool or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in the cells that make up the crate.
5. The heat-insulating material is fixed on the masonry with dowel umbrellas or special adhesives are used.
6. Before sticking thermal protection, bath walls made of bricks must be treated with a penetrating primer.

After fixing the main heat-insulating material on the walls, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer of kraft paper, or foil film or other materials. Reliable vapor barrier of the sauna steam room is a must.

You need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, kraft paper will get wet and will soon become unusable.
For such places, foil-based film is best suited.

If necessary, a counter-lattice can be stuffed onto the lathing bars, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. Then a lining is nailed to the counter-lattice.

In the event that the bath has a large quadrature, its walls should be insulated on all floors in order to avoid significant heat losses during operation. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure the thermal protection of the building, the installation of solid entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing contours will not damage.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them. This is especially important to do when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

1. Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
2. A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
3. A layer of foam is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture about 10 centimeters thick is poured on top of it.
4. To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam chips to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
5. To the rough surface of the ceiling, the bars of the crate are attached from the inside, placing basalt wool in slabs between them.
6. A foil film is laid over the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

If the room is properly insulated from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that visiting the bathhouse will bring maximum pleasure.

Read in the article

Insulation of a brick bath

When choosing a material for building a bath, many opt for a capital brick building, which will faithfully last for many years. And this is no coincidence. Brick walls are not afraid of various insects that are happy to eat wood fibers in a log bath or from logs, are not subject to decay, do not swell under the influence of moisture and do not dry out in hot summer from solar radiation.

But brick walls also have their drawbacks. These include:

• large own weight;
• high thermal conductivity.

And if the first drawback is solved by creating a reliable strip or column foundation, then the second one requires careful thermal insulation to keep the heat inside the steam room.

Which side to insulate - from the inside or outside?

Before considering the possible options for the materials used for insulation, you need to figure out - to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside or from the inside?

How to insulate walls?

After we have decided on which side the brick walls should be insulated from, let's see what can be used for insulation and how the whole insulating “pie” looks in layers.

In ancient times, a variety of materials were used to insulate the walls in the bath - flax, moss, hemp, felt. As you yourself understand, the service life of such heaters was small. Materials of plant origin dried out, rotted, were eaten by insects and became unusable, and often caused a fire in the bath, as they flared up from the slightest spark.

But progress does not stand still, and today many types of heaters of various chemical compositions are produced industrially. These are glass wool, and basalt fiber wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane-based insulation.

The numbers in the figure indicate:

Wall insulation with Rockwool boards

One of the easiest ways to reliably insulate the walls of a bath is to use special Rockwool Sauna Butts boards, produced specifically for insulating saunas and baths.

The insulation is placed between them by surprise, after which the seams between the plates are glued with a special metallized adhesive tape, which prevents moisture from entering the insulation layer.

Wall insulation with ecowool

Another type of modern materials, increasingly used as insulation for brick walls, is ecowool.

If ecowool is produced in accordance with the technology, then it is a highly environmentally friendly insulation that is not afraid of fire or water, does not support the spread of mold and fungus, and can serve for many years.

The only thing to remember when buying is that you should not save and buy insulation from unknown dealers, since under the guise of ecowool you can simply buy ground waste paper, which does not at all correspond to even a small part of the declared characteristics.

So that the heat does not leave the steam room, you should take care not only of the insulation of the walls, but also think about the insulation of the floor.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible. . When insulating the ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a hot pipe passing through the ceiling structures, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation from non-combustible material

The place of passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the node of the passage of the pipe through the ceiling is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or timber. By following the recommendations in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Insulation of a brick bath

How to insulate brick walls? Why is it better to use stone wool? What are the disadvantages of foam? All answers in one article!

A source:

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath

It's time to move on to the most important thing: to the insulation of brick walls. To do this, you need to tune in to the fact that the bath will “lose” a significant amount of internal space. You just have to make along the brick load-bearing walls, additional wooden ones. That is, make the finish with clapboard, vapor barrier, insulation itself, waterproofing and leave a ventilation gap between the brick and the insulation. Now about this in more detail.

Installation of vertical bars

Wooden blocks 40-50 mm thick are vertically attached to brick walls. They should first be treated with a deep penetration antiseptic, as they will be operated in harsh conditions, especially in winter. The distance between them is 60-80 cm. Then a waterproofing film is attached to these bars. All joints are sealed with tape.

After that, carefully, without tearing the film, a wooden frame is assembled for the insulation itself. The thickness of the frame depends on the climatic latitudes: if it is warm and moderate, 50 mm is enough, if it is harsh, cold, then 100 mm is already needed. The frame is assembled to match the size of the insulation used. The best option is Rockwool mineral basalt wool, especially if it is in the form of slabs and has reflective foil.

Having assembled the frame and laid the insulation in it, it is worth taking care of the vapor barrier of the bath. To do this, lay a layer of foil on top of the insulation. For example, Penotherm is perfect. Only all joints must also be glued with adhesive tape for greater sealing of the insulation.

Then, carefully, without damaging the vapor barrier, wooden blocks 25-30 mm thick are attached. And already the final finish is mounted on them - lining or. Now you can list all the layers of the "pie" that was just made, starting with the brick walls and ending with the finish:

• brick walls
• wooden blocks
• waterproofing layer
• Wooden frame with insulation
• Vapor barrier layer
• wooden blocks
• decorative trim

It should be noted that between the brick wall and the insulation there is a ventilation gap of 40-50 mm. for the thickness of the bars. There is also an air gap between the lining and insulation 25-30 mm. In a word, the total thickness of the insulated wall, not counting the brickwork, will be 20-25 cm. This will greatly affect the internal areas of the room.

The bars on the brick were fixed vertically for a reason. This is due to the fact that if, in severe frost, the walls accidentally “cry”, the water flowing down them will go down unhindered. Although, proper warming of the bath, this should not be allowed. For the same reason, special vents are made in the lower part of the walls for "breathing" and the elimination of condensate.

How to insulate floors and ceilings will not be considered here. These activities are carried out according to the usual and standard scheme. But for those who are interested, there are relevant articles on the site.

From the foregoing, it can be seen that the insulation of a brick bath is a rather costly undertaking, both in terms of materials and in terms of physical work. To achieve good results, you have to work long and hard. But, only in this way the warming of the bath from the inside will be correct and productive.

Wisdom Quote: Apathy and laziness - the true freezing of the soul and body.

Insulation of a brick bath methods and materials used

Choosing brick as a building material for a bath is a great way to solve several problems at the same time: to give the structure maximum strength and durability, to achieve perfect wall geometry, and to retain heat perfectly. but heat-saving properties of bricks not so good as to guarantee the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath without fail requires additional insulation.

The inner surface of the walls

The procedure for installing insulation

wooden clapboard.

floor laying technology:

External wall insulation

External work on the thermal insulation of a brick bath are carried out using the same mineral wool insulation, which retains heat well, is non-combustible and is capable of performing the functions of a sound insulator. If rolled insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls with wooden planks or slats.

When application of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the technology for performing work will be somewhat different:

• a crate is constructed from a metal profile and corners, fastened with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, for the insulation of brick baths it is quite possible to use foam sheets. The order of work when insulating a bath with foam heat-insulating material will be like this:

• the surface of the brickwork is freed from all types of pollution;

Ceiling insulation

Through the ceiling with poor-quality thermal insulation, up to a quarter of all the heat generated by the stove can go away

Therefore, to reduce losses, the insulation of the ceiling should be given no less attention than in the case of walls. The most suitable insulating material for this purpose is lightweight and non-combustible fiberglass

Work on the insulation of the ceiling in the bath produced as follows:

• fiberglass canvases or mats are laid out on the ceiling boards;

How to insulate a steam room

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath as a whole differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in other rooms of the bath. The differences are only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the steam room, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

1. The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.

Similarly, the foil is fastened to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

As a sheathing material in the steam room, it is best to use pine lining. Pine perfectly resists both high temperatures and the effects of hot steam from the heater. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will add a special aroma to the atmosphere of the steam room.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for masters without extensive experience in such work.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside a brick box. The material is a bar-ten, which in itself is a warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

• A crate is stuffed onto the brick.
• A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
• Install timber walls.
• A second crate is stuffed over them.
• Close the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Between the bars of the crate, the fiberglass is not stretched, but an overlap is made, so that later it is easy to place a heater.
• Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
• To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
• The lining is stuffed last.

The foil is attached to the crate with a construction stapler, without pulling it close

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. To insulate the bath, heat insulators are chosen that will not emit harmful substances at hot temperatures. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimally suited, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the timber with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But still do not do the warming of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrenes. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can focus on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

• Brick.
• Waterproofing.
• Crate.
• Insulation.
• Waterproofing.
• Second crate.
• Fiberglass.
• Insulation.
• Vapor barrier.
• Clapboard.

The thickness of the internal insulation pie will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering it with foil foam. This foam material is covered on one side with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect IR rays and become a barrier to internal vapors.

Foiled materials are joined together using aluminum tape

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it with a special foil for baths on top. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances during strong heating of the room. Joints in foil insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Material Features

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene. Modern equipment makes it possible to produce material with an ordered structure, in which small gas bubbles are evenly distributed. Such isolated and completely closed microscopic cavities have a size of about 0.1-0.2 mm. The foaming agent is light types of freon with the introduction of carbon dioxide into them.

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene.

By its nature, penoplex has a chemical inertness, which excludes its oxidation or decay. The main goal of developing this material is to provide high thermal insulation capabilities with low water absorption and very high compressive strength. An important characteristic is good manufacturability, i.e. it is easy to cut and bend, which allows it to be used in hard-to-reach places.

As you know, the thermal insulation characteristics of any foamed or porous material are sharply reduced under the influence of moisture, which is absolutely not characteristic of foam. A slight water absorption by the material is observed only for the first 7-8 days, when moisture fills the cells located near the surface. In the future, the penetration of water stops, and the initial saturation has little effect on the thermal insulation properties of the product.

Moreover, steam impermeability should be noted, which is very important for bathing conditions.

The main form of release of the plate: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm

The material is divided into 3 groups:

1. Penoplexstandard.
2. Penoplex 45.

Its types differ in specific density, mechanical strength and heat resistance. Insulation of the floor in the bath with foam plastic is carried out by the first 2 types of material.

On a note! Penoplex 45 has increased mechanical strength and is designed for floors where significant load and vibration are possible.

The main form of production of the plate: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm. Sheets with a thickness of 10-12 cm are very popular. The standard length of the plates is 120 and 240 cm, in special cases material 4 or 4.5 m long can be used.

How to insulate a steam room in a brick bath

Novice builders mistakenly assume that the construction of a bath ends with the construction of walls and the installation of a stove. But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated. Many claim that a brick building does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of brick, but this is nothing more than a myth. A well-insulated bathhouse is much warmer from the inside.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will consider all the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath.

We warm the floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, waterproofing

It is important to observe two fundamental rules here: . When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties

It must pass steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.

1. When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties. It must pass steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.
2. Lay all layers of insulation tightly to each other, avoiding the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you with long discussions about possible heaters, we will say right away that polystyrene is an ideal option for warming the foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and characteristics of the base. Expanded clay is most often used to protect against high humidity. This material perfectly copes with its "duties" and significantly reduces costs. Conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the thickness of the layer should be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

• we lay the gyro-insulating layer;
• we lay thick foam sheets, strictly observing the dimensions;
• we reinforce and tighten the floor with a fill;
• lay the floor.

Now it remains only to wait until the solution seizes and you can proceed to the next step.

We heat-insulate the walls

To make the process not troublesome and enjoyable, you need to take care of this at the construction stage. A cobbled crate is installed in the steam room, on which the heat material is fixed. Thus, you protect the insulation from deformation and slipping during operation. If you decide to opt for a loose version, then do not forget to fill up the cracks.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out thermal insulation in several passes, allowing the limestone mortar to grab and dry. If you opted for slabs, then put them between the finish and the wall. Most often, foam is used for insulation inside. One of its sides is covered with foil, which reflects heat and warms up the bath much faster. In addition, foil insulation has undeniable advantages. It withstands high temperatures and does not collapse from sudden changes, does not allow moisture to pass through.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stop at mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to cotton wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we produce wall cladding inside the bath. Natural material - wood - is used as a cladding.

We insulate the ceiling

Physical processes make it necessary to carefully approach the thermal insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is lighter and rises to the top, it must not be allowed to escape through the ceiling cracks. There is no strong difference between the insulation of the ceiling and the walls, the only thing that needs to be done more carefully and used together is both loose and tiled material. For sheathing, use the same material as for the walls. The uniform style of the room will create a cozy atmosphere.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually made of wooden boards or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

Expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag is most often used to insulate a concrete floor. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive composition - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofing has set, the laying of the insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which a waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. Concrete must be leveled and properly dried. Finishing such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it, you can place a system of underfloor heating.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and arranged in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the finishing floor is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater comfort for users. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but they may indicate a malfunction of the insulation scheme, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not evident due to the freezing of bricks from the side of the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated during the winter begins to intensively stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

Adding foil insulation

• add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
• provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
• add an exhaust vent.

Insulation options

Immediately make a reservation that there are a large number of different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

• The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
• Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
• Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimal thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges

Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

• After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
• And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with heaters 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But here it is better not to refuse the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only wooden with a heat-insulating layer. To do this, a frame of wooden slats is installed on the brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. It is up to everyone to decide. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

• Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
• Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. Such a thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
• And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If “yes”, then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
• And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them

This is especially important to do when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

1. Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
2. A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
3. A layer of foam is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture about 10 centimeters thick is poured on top of it.
4. To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam chips to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
5. To the rough surface of the ceiling, the bars of the crate are attached from the inside, placing basalt wool in slabs between them.
6. A foil film is laid over the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

If the room is properly insulated from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that visiting the bathhouse will bring maximum pleasure.

The general rule is that the bath is insulated from the inside

During the construction of residential buildings, the main thermal insulation is mounted outside, but during the construction of a bath, the situation is exactly the opposite. And the thing is that the bath is used (heated) periodically, while the house is heated almost all year round.

Therefore, for a bath, it becomes important to preserve the resulting internal heat given off by the stove, without transferring it to the outside.

If you make external insulation, then the structures of the structure (walls, floor, ceiling) will first warm up, and after they are heated, the air inside the room will begin to warm up. In this case, it will take a very long time to heat the bath, which in turn entails an increased consumption of firewood. Read more about warming the bath from the inside.

Scheme

Warming the bath from the outside with your own hands (if you still decide)

If you think that internal insulation will not be enough, or you just want to maximize the life of the bath, then you can do external thermal insulation.
External insulation will increase the holding time of high temperature inside the bath and reduce the cost of maintaining it.

Due to the fact that when installing external thermal insulation, finishing (finishing) materials will be required, you will additionally protect your building from the effects of natural phenomena: fog, rain and snow. That protects the bath from excessive moisture and prolongs its service life.

The material from which the bath is built affects the choice of insulation and the nature of the upcoming work.

Baths erected from a log (calibrated or ordinary) require captious processing (caulking) of all cracks and cracks. To do this, you can use: sphagnum, jute or tow, flax as natural and environmentally friendly materials, or you can use a special wood sealant.

If the material of the walls is timber, then such a bath requires quite serious insulation: for example, with mineral wool on a frame made of slats, using wind and steam protection and subsequent finishing (lining, siding, block house, etc.).

Brick baths or baths made of foam or cinder blocks, foam concrete, etc., must be insulated without fail. All of these materials have high thermal conductivity, which in cold climates can cause high heat losses.

According to the requirements for insulation, it is similar to baths made of timber, but the total wall thickness must be at least 80 cm. Polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene or foamed glass can also be used as insulation.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? The inner surface of the walls It is most effective to insulate a brick bath with natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any harmful substances at high temperatures. In particular, mineral wool webs, available in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for this purpose.

The only one the disadvantage of such a heater- the ability to absorb moisture, which, by definition, is always in abundance in any bath. Therefore, the heat-shielding layer will require additional waterproofing, which protects the mineral wool from steam and water.

The procedure for installing insulation on the interior walls will be as follows:

• a supporting frame is erected on a brick wall of wooden slats;
• heat-insulating material is laid in the resulting cells. In addition to mineral wool, more modern materials can be used here with great success. For example, foil foam is not only absolutely insensitive to moisture and temperatures of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny surface of the foil it is able to reflect heat back into the bath rooms;
• the entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc.). To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with an overlap of 10-20 cm. To give additional strength to the joints, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed. wooden clapboard.

In addition to walls, the internal thermal insulation of a brick bath should include Measures to reduce heat loss through floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

• a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;
• thermal insulation mats are lined and fixed in one way or another;
• a layer of waterproofing is laid;
• the finishing floor is equipped with the widest possible boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to consider the material from which the subfloor is made. If it is formed by boards, then they will need to be pre-treated with a means to prevent wood decay.
. The concrete subfloor itself is able to play the role of thermal insulation.

Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

The concrete subfloor itself is able to play the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

• a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;
• a solid heat insulator (polystyrene) is laid;
• a mixture of cement, sand and crushed foam is poured;
• sheets of roofing material are overlapped;
• the reinforcing mesh is lined;
• a concrete solution is poured with the addition of crushed stone of a fine fraction;
• at a height of 10-20 cm, a finished plank floor is created.

The resulting design is advantageous in that it is ventilated. And this means a significant increase in the service life of both the finished floor and the heat-insulating concrete base underneath.

How to insulate the floor in the bath? You will find out the answer to this question by reading this article.

And in this article, read about the insulation of the roof of the bath.

Floor insulation

A brick bath with its solidity suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days in order to take a steam bath in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

• concrete;
• dry wood;
• pouring on a concrete screed.

They all need insulation, just a little different.

Dry wood floor consists of rough and finish, between which there is a gap to the height of the floor beam. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay need a hydrobarrier before laying the final floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinin foam. Alternatively, you can also fill the space under the subfloor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under pouring floor are insulated the same way.

1. The soil is removed by half a meter.
2. The future water flow is laid - a pit / ladder and pipes to the outside.
3. 15 cm of gravel is poured and rammed.
4. Then 35 cm of sand and rammed.
5. This "pillow" is hermetically sealed with roofing material.
6. A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
7. It closes with a hydrobarrier if the insulation is wet.
8. Reinforcing mesh is laid.
9. A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Find out more:

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath are made of wood or concrete. The technology for applying insulation does not have big differences depending on the material used to make the floor.

The only thing that when constructing a concrete structure is to pour an increased layer of expanded clay. At the same time, it is customary to compare its thickness with the width of the walls, and pour, about twice as thick a layer.

If the floor is insulated on the ground (in the case of a strip foundation), then you need to do the following:

• Treat the walls with a preparation for waterproofing;
• Pour sand 10 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;
• Cover this layer with roofing material with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.

And then fall asleep expanded clay.

Scheme of floor insulation in a brick bath

Ceiling insulation

The imposition of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling is, in fact, the same as on the walls. It is only necessary to bear in mind some features in this case. Since hot air tends to rise, the thermal insulation layer becomes thicker than on the walls. This is usually achieved by adding a ceiling covering on top, and a foil sheet and facing material is laid inside.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat losses in the bath occur not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, autumn, early spring.

To figure out how and what is better to insulate the floor in the bath, you should remember that the procedure for laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleaned of debris and foreign objects and leveled. A concrete screed must be poured onto the prepared surface.

On the set concrete, you need to lay a layer of rolled waterproofing. It can be roofing material or plastic film.

Further, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing material or polyethylene is re-layed. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying of all layers of the floor cake must be carried out carefully

It is especially necessary to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Properly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for the proper use of the bath and keeping warm.

Material

Building materials can be divided into structural (steel, concrete, brick, stone) and heat-insulating, which have low strength and specific gravity, but they perfectly retain heat.

Thermal conductivity and specific gravity are interrelated.

That is why almost all heat insulators have a porous structure, float in water and are often combustible.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside can be carried out with any heat insulators that are approved for use in interior work.

The choice of material is carried out necessarily before insulating a brick bath. The required material is indicated in the project.

Here is a sample list of them:

1. Styrofoam (foamed polystyrene). Moisture resistant, which is well suited for a bath, thermal conductivity is very low. The specific gravity is about 25 kg cubic meters. The main disadvantage is a fire hazardous and non-environmental material;
2. Mineral wool. It is rarely used in baths, since even after a single wetting it irreversibly “sits down” in volume. With good thermal insulation in the baths, it can be used. The advantage in combination with brick walls is absolute fire resistance;
3. Basalt slabs. In many properties they are close to mineral wool. Safer for humans;
4. Organic insulation: moss, straw, sawdust. Now they are almost never used, but as a fallback they are often used;
5. Prefabricated organic insulation, such as porous cellulose boards. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. For a bath, a good option;
6. PU foam. Mainly goes to the insulation of pipes. In rare cases, they insulate houses and baths. It is possible to use both ready-made elements and PPU spraying from a foam generator;
7. Other polymeric heaters, of which there are many brands: pepoplex, foamed polyethylene, magnesium oxide on acrylic resin;

The insulation can be fireproof, like the rest of the brick bath. How to insulate walls and ceiling - is determined by the budget and the overall project. Of all the options for a bath, foam is most often used (only it has excellent moisture resistance) and basalt slabs.

Both materials are available in the form of flat slabs.

For their installation on walls, floors and ceilings, a trellis frame is always required.

The insulation itself is fragile, does not clearly hold its shape, and on top of its layer there must be a strong outer surface (for example, a bath lining).

The combination of these two layers is provided by the frame. Warming with any plate materials is similar in technology.

This is the installation of plates cut to the size of the frame cell, as well as their adhesive fastening.

Almost any plates are fastened with glue: foam, basalt, ecowool. The choice of glue is carried out according to the recommendations of the insulation manufacturer.

Important! Work with mineral wool, insulation containing fiberglass requires special care. Work in protective equipment, a respirator, goggles.

Work with foam plastic and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with fire safety rules

When cutting, slight dust formation is possible. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Work with foam plastic and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with fire safety rules. When cutting, slight dust formation is possible. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Advantages and disadvantages of penoplex when used in a bath

Penoplex for warming the bath

Among the main advantages of the material for warming baths are:

• moisture resistance. During the day, the heat insulator plate absorbs less than 0.4% of its volume, and in a month it can absorb up to 0.6%. Moisture penetrates only into the top layer, the inner filling remains dry, even if the foam sheet is completely immersed in water. Due to this factor, the material is not subject to the formation of mold and decay.

Low thermal conductivity. This property is provided by the special structure of the penoplex. The coefficient of heat conductivity is 0.03 W / m and is considered the lowest among heaters.

Strength. Due to the homogeneity of the material, which is achieved by extrusion, it is able to withstand significant mechanical loads. With 10% linear information, its strength is 0.2 MPa. In order not to damage its integrity, insulating the floor, you need to monitor the evenness of the surface.

Vapor resistance. This indicator for penoplex is close to roofing material. Therefore, it is often used for warming bath rooms in which high humidity is maintained.

Ease. The density of the material is only 25-32 kg / meter 3. It is often used for thermal insulation of roofs, since it does not weigh down the structure. Because of this property, it is easy to mount it.

Easy to install. Penoplex for warming the bath is cut with an ordinary construction or clerical knife. Thermal insulation with it can be easily done independently.

Durability. Some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the material up to 50 years.

Chemical resistance. The heat insulator is not affected by alkalis, water-based paints, saline solutions, alcohol compositions, bleach, ammonia, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, various oils, freons, concrete mixtures. However, it must be borne in mind that under the influence of formaldehyde, diesel fuel, gasoline, acetone, methyl-, ethyl acetate bases, enamel and oil paints, the physical and technical characteristics of the penoplex deteriorate. Some formulations may even dissolve the material.

Soundproofing. After insulating the roof and walls, you will not hear the sound of rain or the rumble of a busy highway. Noise protection index - 41 dB.

Temperature resistance and stability. The operating temperature of the heat insulator is from -100 to +75 degrees.

As for the shortcomings of the material, it is possible to single out the average flammability index and the release of toxic fumes during combustion. For this reason, before thermal insulation, it is treated with special fire-fighting compounds. Some manufacturers offer insulation already impregnated with flame retardants.

The method of thermal insulation of the basement of the bath with foam

Scheme of insulation of the basement of the bath with penoplex

Plinth - a thinner part of the foundation, to which the walls of the structure are attached. Therefore, the durability of the building depends on the quality of its thermal insulation.

In the process, we adhere to the following sequence:

• We cover the base with a waterproofing membrane.

We fix a 12-centimeter layer of foam plastic on top of acrylic glue.

We lay the second layer of waterproofing. It will be a kind of drainage.

We attach a geotextile material that acts as a filter.

Fill with sand-cement screed.

Due to the hydrophobicity of the heat insulator, the steam room will be reliably protected from moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room in a brick bath

Building your own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of bath walls.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Bath made of silicate bricks

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is not particularly difficult now. The main requirement is to do everything neatly and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact between bricks and the ground. Before you insulate a brick bath, you should decide on the option of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several options for thermal insulation:

• baths, lined with insulation in the form of plates;

Mineral wool insulation

• baths with an air cushion in the wall;

Hollows in the wall

• baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

backfill wall

With slab insulation

Warming the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

• drill holes in the seams;

• insert wooden plugs into the holes;

Some are even ready for sale.

• a frame made of a metal profile or wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;

• fasten on the rails of the insulation plate;

• close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

• perform the final finishing of the clapboard.

The insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.

Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt slab fits perfectly

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use of well brickwork and backfill.

Work instructions:

• perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

• as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

• after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully rammed;

• the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

• complete the laying, performing 3-4 rows of a continuous type of brickwork;

• if in the future the wall will not be plastered, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, then the seams should be left unfilled by 10-15 mm.

We make the seams even

If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.

This will not only improve the appearance of the masonry, but also keep the brick from being saturated with moisture.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Warming the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling should be insulated in the same way.

To work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

The simplest option for insulating the ceiling is to use a mixture of straw and clay as a heater, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so the cheapest way is not always the best.

Finishing

The inner lining of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. It is considered ideal lining made of linden or aspen. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Examples of different types of lining

If you have done the insulation of a brick bath from the inside correctly, then you will not have a draft or condensation, but only a pleasant aroma of wood and a feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can steam!

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of warming, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room, so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible. In one of the publications, we have already touched on the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling. It is also advisable to choose mineral wool roll or plate materials as a ceiling insulation.

It is also widely practiced to backfill the floor with expanded clay.

When insulating the ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a hot pipe passing through the ceiling structures, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation from non-combustible material.

The place of passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the node for the passage of a pipe through the ceiling is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. How the pipe passes through the floor looks like is shown in the photo below:

*** As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or timber. By following the recommendations in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

To figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, you need to understand the performance characteristics of the wall material. Compared to a wooden sauna, a brick building has the advantage that neither fire protection nor waterproofing is required. has only such a drawback as a small thermal conductivity. This prevents the room of the bath or sauna from warming up well, and the heat is not completely retained. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the building, you can carry out.

In order for the bath to be warm, it must be built in one and a half or two bricks.

Which insulation will be better - external or internal?

If we are talking about a private bath, it does not make sense to maintain a constant temperature above zero from the inside all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through, and when trying to flood the bathhouse, all the heat goes mainly to heat the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, only the lining covers it, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.

Thermal insulation of the bath walls from the inside helps to reduce fuel costs. When properly installed, the heat-insulating material does not release heated air outside, and it is stored inside the room.

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Options for thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

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Building an additional wall

You can insulate a brick bath from the inside by building an additional wall. As a material for this, a bar is used, which, according to its characteristics, is quite heat-saving and does not emit components hazardous to health.

Installation of a warming cake for the walls of the bath is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. A crate is laid on the bricks.
2. Waterproofing is attached to the installed frame.
3. Raising a timber wall.
4. Another crate is stuffed on top.
5. The beam is covered with fiberglass, which is fixed to the crate with a stapler. Fiberglass should not be stretched between the crates. An overlap is made, which subsequently makes it easy to place a heater.
6. Tiled insulation is inserted into the gaps between the crate.
7. In order to create a barrier for internal steam, the insulating material is covered on top with foil or film vapor barrier.
8. Lastly, the lining is hammered.

Regardless of which insulation material is chosen, its thickness should not be less than ten centimeters. It is only necessary to pay attention to whether the insulation emits toxic substances when heated.

Fiberglass or basalt materials that are not exposed to moisture are considered optimal. It can be, for example, foam plastic - at elevated temperatures it performs better than foam plastic, and also has self-extinguishing properties. But you need to be more careful when using polystyrenes to insulate a brick bath - with strong heating, they can char, which leads to the release of harmful substances. It is better to use basalt materials in the bath room.

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Insulation in two layers

When considering options for insulation, sometimes it may be the best way to create a double insulation layer, that is, instead of beams, an additional insulation 10 cm thick is laid in the crate.

The design of the wall insulation pie will look like this:

• waterproofing layer;
• crate;
• warming material;
• waterproofing layer;
• one more crate;
• fiberglass;
• warming material;
• vapor barrier layer;
• lining.

The total thickness of the insulating cake is approximately 22 cm. It is better to line the layer of heat-insulating material that is closer to the brick wall with extruded polystyrene foam. This material is not afraid of moisture and will not absorb external vapors. The inner layer of insulation must be selected taking into account the characteristics of the building being repaired. All bath rooms, with the exception of the steam room, should be covered with foam plastic - foam material with a foil layer, which will become an obstacle to water vapor.

For a steam room, it is better to choose materials from basalt, and cover it with special foil for a bath on top. So with strong heating of the air, toxic substances will be released a little less. Seal the joints of the material with aluminum tape.

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Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath

It is also necessary to perform thermal insulation of the bath floor. But measures to insulate bath floors lose their meaning if the foundation is not protected from the outside. In the bath, the floors are affected by high humidity and the difference in temperature between the room and the ground. Therefore, before the ceilings are mounted, the underground should be covered with slag or expanded clay. There is no underground in the baths, so the interior space of the foundation must be filled with insulation.

In a structure such as a bath, the foundation can become a powerful conductor for cold air - it is made of materials that do not have heat-saving characteristics.

When building a bath, the top of the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt or roofing material to protect the brick from moisture from the soil. But this is rarely enough. It may be necessary to carry out insulation from the outside for all walls of the foundation. This helps to increase the degree of heat saving of bath floors and prevent shrinkage and movement of the foundation.

When choosing a material, you must first of all be guided by your construction capabilities and the state of your wallet. It is advisable to draw up work plans before starting the insulating materials. For example, choosing polyurethane foam will cost more financially than penoplex, since insulation is applied using special equipment. But the installation will be carried out in just a few hours, the coating is very durable, without joints. There are no loopholes left for the penetration of cold into the foundation.

Such material as penoplex is produced in the form of plates. They are glued to the foundation walls with an adhesive mixture or special mastic. Any owner of his own bath is able to do this work on his own. But this type of installation of insulation will take much longer - the plates must be well joined, the seams must be well sealed, and some - for example, in the corners - should be blown out with mounting foam.

Often, brick is used as a structural material for the construction of a bath. Many believe that a brick building does not need additional sealing, but this is nothing more than a myth. This material has a high thermal conductivity, which makes the bath poorly protected from the penetration of cold air, so warming a brick bath is a must.

There are two ways to insulate a bath, like any brick building:

• From within
• Outside

Each method is good for something. In construction, there are simply no perfect solutions. Therefore, we will consider in detail each of the options so that any owner can choose what is best for him.

From within

It is clear that insulation from the inside means attaching insulation to the structural material inside the room.

The advantages of this method:

• From the inside, you can insulate the bath in the process of reconstruction or repair
• No dependence on weather conditions. Internal insulation can be done at any free time for the builder.
• The outwardly aesthetic appearance of brickwork is preserved.

The method also has a number of disadvantages:

• Significantly reduced interior space
• Internal insulation always works worse than external insulation, ceteris paribus
• For internal insulation, you will have to more carefully choose thermal insulation materials. Outside air absolutely does not care what substances or particles are released into it. But no one wants to breathe phenols, which emit mineral wool insulation on a glass basis.

It is also worth noting that the inside of the bath is insulated much more often than the outside.

Outside

Outside, insulation is always more efficient, but this method involves the arrangement of a ventilated facade. A ventilated facade means that the house is covered with siding, which does not always suit the owner.

If we are talking about a bath, then the interior space will still have to be insulated and waterproofed in order to protect the brick from the aggressive environment of the steam room. A constant cycle of heating and cooling will simply destroy the brick in 2-3 years. Therefore, protection is essential. For the combination of these reasons, most of the owners prefer to insulate the bath from the inside.

Of course, you can take care of the combined insulation of the complex. That's just it means double the cost with a minimum of real benefit. And any insulation should be as cheap as possible. Because few people want to spend huge sums when the main part of the building has already been built.

The choice of material for insulation

Special requirements are imposed on the materials for warming the bath, including:

• Fire resistance. The temperature in the steam room is always elevated, so it is desirable that the heaters have the ability to withstand temperatures up to 100 degrees. Of course, in the steam room the temperature rarely rises above 70, but it's better to play it safe.
• Environmental friendliness. Some heaters, when exposed to elevated temperatures, do not burn, but emit harmful substances. This is unacceptable for any interior, and not just for a bath.
• Moisture resistance. In addition to high temperatures, the bath is constantly high humidity. This is a problem that is often solved with the help of various kinds of protective films. But ideally, the insulation itself should also be calm about high humidity.
• Undemanding for operation. There are heaters that become unusable during operation on an accelerated cycle. This refers to constant heating and cooling. For a bath, several such cycles can take place in a day, and therefore the insulating materials must be stable.

You also need to focus on price and ease of installation. Any insulation should be as cheap as possible. Consider the specific materials that are used for internal insulation of the bath:

• Foam glass. Good material that does not require additional vapor barrier. On the contrary, when using foam glass, it is necessary to solve the issue of ventilation of the inner surface of the brickwork in order to prevent the appearance of fungus on the brick.
• Basalt mineral wool. The most popular material for warming any structures. Of course, basalt mineral wool requires additional hydro and vapor barrier, but it is easy to install and has a reasonable price tag.
• Ecowool. This is a new generation advertising hit. Advertising often uses the prefix eco-friendly to push the product to a new level. In fact, ecowool is a foamed cellulose with various kinds of impregnations, which should minimize the risk of fire and exposure to pests. The fire hazard can be reduced as a result of processing to the G2 grade, and yet, it is highly recommended not to use ecowool to insulate the bath.
• organic heaters. The most common organic heater for a bath: sawdust. Their use is justified by low cost and absolute environmental friendliness. But insulation with sawdust is an extremely lengthy process. In addition, there is the possibility of fire, so it is better to refrain from using organic matter.

Foam glass - material for warming a brick bath

DIY thermal insulation technology

Let's talk about the thermal insulation of each individual section of the bath.

Wall insulation

Wall insulation always begins with waterproofing. Water should not get on the inner surface of the brickwork, otherwise the brick will begin to collapse. Therefore, first of all, waterproof the surface. The next step is the crate device. It is made from boards that are installed on an edge parallel to the floor. It is desirable to select the width of the board taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Separately, we will tell you why a board is used for the crate, and not metal? The metal profile is just as easy to install, and it may be easier for someone to work with metal guides. Everything is really so, only for a steam room every saved percentage of heat is important, and every piece of metal is a possibility of leakage of thermal energy. These are the so-called cold bridges through which Vata flows out. Therefore, it is better to use wood for the crate, which has a much lower coefficient of thermal conductivity.

The next step is laying the insulation. The insulation must be laid tightly, leaving no gaps between the board and the mats. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, which is then closed with clapboard or any other facing material. There must be a ventilation gap between the cladding and the vapor barrier; without it, the vapor barrier becomes simply useless.

Hot air escapes through the ceiling, rising above the cold air. The main danger for the ceiling is the soaking of the insulation. After the rough surface is filled, the process of arranging thermal protection begins.

Logs are carefully wrapped with a waterproof film. You can put the film joint to joint using a special tape. Mineral wool mats are laid on top. For the ceiling, it is better to use a double layer of mats, blocking the gaps between the two mats with the top layer. This will reduce heat loss and create a small ventilation gap between the two layers of insulation. Instead of mineral wool boards, you can cover the entire space with rolls. In this case, you need to ensure that there are no joints between the rolls.

The insulation is closed with a vapor barrier membrane, and then boarded up with boards. This completes the insulation of the ceiling, but we must not forget that when the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to separately equip the cutting with insulation, and a protective screen is required on the wall.

Floor thermal protection

A brick bath, as a rule, is built on a strip foundation. This means that there will be cold ground under the floor. Therefore, insulation must be started even before the construction of the rough floor surface. First, level the ground. Ideally, this should be done in layers:

• large stone
• rubble
• Sand

But most often just sand is used, from which a leveling pad 20 cm thick is formed. After that, the sand is covered with a cut-off film. Special attention should be paid to the edges of the film: they should go 20-30 cm onto the wall. The next step: backfilling of expanded clay and a floor screed device.

Logs are installed directly on the screed, which are covered with waterproofing. The space between the lags is laid with insulation plates.

The hydro and vapor barrier film is re-layed, which is covered with a rough wooden floor surface.

The floor arranged in this way will not let in moisture and will not cause huge heat losses.

We warm the steam room

Separately, we note the warming of the steam room. In fact, most often it is not required to separate the steam room into a separate thermal protection circuit. It is enough to create the same insulation around the entire perimeter of the bath. But this applies only to small baths about 4x4 meters in size. If the bath is large, then additional measures are required:

1. Hydro and vapor barrier is laid in a double layer
2. When installing the floor between the draft and draft surfaces, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid.
3. It is better to lay the insulation in 2 layers of the same thickness as throughout the bath. That is, a plate is taken half the thickness and is laid in two layers.

Separately, it should be noted the need for ventilation in the steam room. As a rule, an inflow is arranged at the bottom of the stove, and an exhaust hood under the ceiling. The most primitive version of the exhaust and inflow is a pipe in the wall with a duct section regulator. However, the use of bricks makes it possible to equip the hood on the roof, which will reduce heat loss with outgoing air.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in warming a brick bath. The main thing is to purchase the required material in advance and try to do all the work in one stage, without being distracted by anything else. Otherwise, there are practically no difficulties, the main thing is patience and attentiveness.