Construction of wooden houses from a bar. All about the disadvantages of timber houses

The decision to build a house from a bar is not taken immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a beam of 195 mm thick is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating, it is better to insulate it (outside 10 mm of mineral wool) and make a ventilated facade. Then there will be more savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

What wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, the wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak timber, but the price will be simply sky-high. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all conifers, most often they put a house from a pine beam. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. From spruce even less often, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest, and even difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% is pine. But with the type of timber you need to understand.

According to the processing method, timber happens:

• Ordinary or solid, unplaned timber. Sawn from a solid log, the section is a quadrilateral (square or rectangle).
• Profiled bar. It is also sawn from a solid log, but after it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with which one beam is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of complex shape. The side faces can be even, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "castle" - numerous beards and recesses.
• Glued beam. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

We will analyze the features of each type of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if we take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, interventional insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, it will be very strong to blow through the gaps between the crowns. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and one cannot do without finishing inside and outside.

In addition to laying the interventional layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. A caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the interventional sealant makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, where to put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be more: add interventional insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of exterior and interior decoration to the cost of the timber. Please also note that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are sawn on the spot. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How the cut is made determines how warm the corners will be. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of profiled timber

Considering a profiled beam, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. Anyway, that's how it should be. With good workmanship, finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even if it is immediately ready for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) through slots cannot be. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that it is possible to lay walls without interventional insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least a thin, but a heater. Someone uses a thin substrate for a laminate, someone uses a self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile among developers lately is the “comb”. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they insure themselves by laying insulation.

Several typical beam profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are glued beams, but profiled beams are made of exactly the same profile)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. Matching in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), it can be chamber dried with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. Features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, at elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part goes into marriage, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high cost of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber drying is considered wood 8-12%.

Either way, gaps will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. Also, the beam can turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The frame is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue on the ends)

It may be easier with the assembly. If you simply order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled beam, as from a regular one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the beam: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to cost a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: it is not required to assemble such a highly qualified designer. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made at the factory. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see a few of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - it will blow incredibly, and the caulk will not save you well

In general, there are pluses and minuses, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper, if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are sawn, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional and 80-90% than profiled.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after a few weeks the folded log house can be immediately put under the roof, and after a few more weeks you can start finishing. This time is necessary for the shrinkage of the bowls, and the geometric dimensions of the glued beam should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued beads really that good? In terms of build speed, yes. But it has serious shortcomings. First: it is glued. What crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people choose wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate the humidity in the room. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive appearance remains, but, finished with a clapboard of the appropriate profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued laminated timber for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

• The walls are light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the cost of its installation will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements in the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar (for small buildings of temporary residence - cottages, baths, etc.) or or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting”, prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compositions that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. So that the wood from the foundation does not draw moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and rolled. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick rolled.
• Laying crown crown. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations designed for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board impregnated with bituminous mastic with working off is laid on the waterproofing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top - the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs, which are poured into the foundation.
• Draft floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, the subfloor boards are laid out along the logs without nailing them.
• Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered”. Cut out according to the pattern. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is outlined, then it is cut out. They use a chainsaw more often, but a rather high degree of proficiency in the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the sawing. The forms of connecting the beam are in the picture.

We have already talked about laying interventional insulation: when using an ordinary beam, it is mandatory, under a profiled one it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular in shape or studs - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When arranging a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, with a different order. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled truss system. In this form, the house is left for a long time to shrink.
• Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut window and door openings, put a pigtail or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not installed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the timber. If the dowels were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber may hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by hanging around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while examining for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it was covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohjust) and stacked.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nagels were sent to bathe in impregnation. Impregnation was poured into the old bath and left for half a day, then taken out and dried.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs cast into concrete.

Laid the first crown. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

Let's change the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no skew, they must be equal. The allowable skew is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. So that there were no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. In a checkerboard pattern, we fasten them with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawn cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to deal with this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a lot of time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber are driven out

We proceed to the assembly of the truss system. First, as is customary, two extreme farms are installed, then everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing felt. Let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth. They will dry with the house.

Related videos

The mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described in detail and analyzed in this video. Very useful. Look.

Building your own home is a very responsible step. And if you decide to do this work yourself, then there will be even more questions and doubts. Today we will discuss whether it is possible to build a house from a bar with our own hands, we will highlight each of the stages of construction, we will try to reveal all possible options. Whether you have enough strength and skills for this difficult task is up to you. Where to begin? What to pay special attention to? Brief answers to all these questions can be found in this article.

Where to start building?

The very first questions that arise long before construction:

Where to build?

Perhaps this question will not be acute for you. Often, a summer cottage is used for construction, where individual housing construction is allowed; an empty plot or with dilapidated housing was inherited from parents or relatives; state assistance for a third child. There can be many reasons for land ownership. Often, it is with the advent of a land plot that there is a desire to acquire your own spacious house for living or a cozy country house for summer holidays.

What to do if there is no site? How to choose the right place for construction? Here you should decide on the purpose of your home. For a country house of temporary stay, any site is suitable. The main criteria here are the environment and ecology. When it comes to building a permanent home, there are many more factors to consider. You should carefully consider the terrain and soils. This can significantly complicate the construction in terms of arranging the foundation. It is important to pay attention to the location of communications. It is difficult to imagine a comfortable life without electricity. Gas allows you to simplify and reduce the cost of heating your home. The problem with the water supply can be solved with the help of a well. But here again we return to the geological study of soils. Sometimes drilling can become a big problem with big costs.

https://youtu.be/65jakExXHqI

What to build?

What purpose do you plan to build a house? We have already mentioned how important it is to determine how your building will be used: a temporary place to spend time with family and friends, or a cozy nest for permanent residence. It is also necessary to choose the size of the object commensurate with the building site. It may be worth planning the location of other buildings on your site in order to harmoniously arrange a bathhouse, garage, gazebo, garden and other elements of comfortable living.

What to build from?

Now there are a lot of materials and technologies for construction. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. We decided to build a house out of timber for ourselves.

After solving these issues, you can directly proceed to construction, although here, too, you will first have to work with your head. There is still a long way to go before direct work with hands.

Preparatory work before construction

Before starting work on the site, you must have a clear project of your facility. Without it, it is difficult to imagine the construction of even small buildings. How to draw up a project for your home?

• Long before the construction, we made a choice in favor of a residential cottage or a country house. Now you need to make a choice of the size of the future home. This may depend on the size of your family, financial capabilities.
• Having decided on the size of the house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of technology for building a house from a bar. Some of the materials may not allow the solution of your project.
• Sawn timber houses. The material used is edged timber with 4 or 2 sawn flat edges. The material has a natural moisture content. The main advantage of this material is its availability and low cost. You can easily find a supplier of such material. Disadvantages: the need to use additional seals between the crowns, low aesthetics (requires exterior and interior decoration), significant shrinkage of the house, the appearance of cracks.
• Houses from profiled timber. Planed timber of special section. The workpiece is equipped with a spike and a groove for tight mounting without additional seals. It can be made of wood of natural moisture or chamber drying.
• Glued beam houses. The same profiled beam, but made by gluing individual boards using a special technology. Made only from kiln-dried wood.
• . The wall is a "pie" of two parallel walls made of boards with a section of 45 (47) x135 (140) mm with filling the space between them with insulation.

The choice of construction technology is inextricably linked with the search for a reliable supplier of the necessary material. The Internet and the phone allow you to solve this issue even without visiting the manufacturer's office. You will be able to specify the price and delivery time, it remains only to read the reviews about the supplier.

We chose the size and material

Now you can start the final design of the house. This is where the internet can help you too. One has only to write the request "project of a house from a bar 6 by 6" or "house from a bar 8 by 8", and you will receive a huge list of projects, often even with a calculated cost. You should not redraw the project for yourself without good knowledge in wooden architecture. You can also use a standard project from a material supplier (especially for profiled or glued beams). Often, design services can be offered free of charge when ordering a house kit from the manufacturer.

With the finished project, it is necessary to draw up an estimate of materials. Even if you are confident in the availability of the selected project, you should not refuse estimate work. It is necessary to at least calculate the supply of building materials so that there are no delays in work, there are no difficulties in their storage. At this stage, you can afford to call suppliers and choose the best option for price and quality. Often, negligent developers have to hurry to look for some material with a significant overpayment. Almost all suppliers of building materials are familiar with the formulation of the question: “Yesterday must be…” They use this to earn additional income.

The estimate will also have to include the cost of the foundation of the house. You have a project, you know the approximate entire object, the soil was studied before the design - choosing the type of foundation will be a simple matter.

Now we are ready to go to the building site. You can start field work, but before that you need to solve one more important issue.

Tools for building a house from a bar

Building a house from a bar does not require a wide range of special tools. But even this insignificant list is not found in every man, especially if he is not associated with construction. So what will be required:

• Chainsaw or electric saw. You will definitely need a chain saw, for precise work you will also need a circular saw or a trimming machine (for finishing work).
• Roulette, lace for measuring and marking.
• Level, hydraulic level, plumb lines, level. The construction of all house structures requires constant monitoring of horizontal and vertical. The most expensive of these tools is a level, which is only required for foundation work.
• Hammer, axe, sledgehammer - it's hard to imagine any carpentry work without these tools.
• Perforator, drill, screwdriver. Without working with fasteners, it is difficult to imagine modern work.
• A range of personal protective equipment. These include goggles, respirators, safety elements (a lot of work will be done at height).
• Bulgarian for cutting metal elements (especially for working with roofing materials).

Foundation arrangement

So, it's time to start building. What is the beginning of any object? Of course, from the construction of the foundation, the reliability of the entire building depends on it. This is not the most difficult, but one of the most important stages in building a house from a bar. We will not consider the features of choosing different types of foundation. We have already made a choice based on the assessment of soils and the weight of the finished house. We will only talk about the features of the installation of the foundation with our own hands.

Foundation on screw piles

It has become widespread due to its versatility and speed of installation. How to perform installation? First you need to calculate the number of piles and their diameter. Then you need to calculate the location of the piles on the site. Even at the design stage, you should have a drawing of a pile field for your house. According to this plan, the site is marked with laces and pegs.

Now you can start screwing the piles. To facilitate the start of screwing, you can dig holes no more than 20 cm deep. The pile is installed in the hole, and with the help of a special rod and assistants, the pile is screwed strictly vertically. Pile sites should be at the same level, this is controlled using a level. You can start installing the grillage. In the case of using a wooden grillage from a bar or a metal grillage from a channel, they are simply fixed on the pile sites. For a reinforced concrete grillage, it will be necessary to install formwork from boards or plywood and lay reinforcement.

Foundation on concrete piles

Prefabricated concrete piles may be driven (requires the use of heavy special equipment) or bored piles. In the case of bored piles, the pile field is also marked. After that, holes are drilled to the freezing depth or pits are dug to the desired depth. A formwork made of roofing material or boards is installed in the hole. Concrete is poured, and pre-bonded reinforcement is immersed in it. Now you can start installing the grillage. This is done by analogy with the foundation on screw piles.

Strip foundation

For houses made of timber, a tape shallow foundation is often used, which perfectly distributes the load of the house. For the installation of a strip foundation, a trench is dug according to the design of the house. The bottom of the trench is filled with sand, which is rammed or spilled with water. Next, formwork made of boards or plywood is mounted, specially bonded reinforcement is laid. The foundation is poured with level control.

slab foundation

Installation is carried out similarly to the strip foundation. The only difference is that a foundation pit is dug under the entire area of ​​​​the house. Sand is poured onto the same area, reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, waterproofing is laid and the Mauerlat or the first crown of the log house is installed.

Walling

It should be noted that after laying the first crown, floor beams can be installed. They can crash into walls (a groove is cut in the wall beams) or fastened with metal supports.

The construction of walls is inextricably linked with the chosen technology. We will analyze the work process for each of the construction options.

• Cut beam. Before laying each subsequent crown, sealing material is laid: jute, flax fiber, tow, moss. After laying the row, it is necessary to drill through two beams with a drill and a serpentine drill. A dowel made of wood will be hammered into this hole to stiffen the wall in height. Instead of wooden dowels, special metal elements can be used, but in this case, markings of their location are left on the timber for subsequent sawing of openings for windows and doors (houses from edged timber are not made according to a project with ready-made openings).
• Profiled or glued timber. These two technologies have the same workpiece profile, so the assembly has identical operations. First of all, it is necessary to lay out a set of beams according to the technological map (each beam is marked, and its position is specified in the project). The exception is profiled timber, purchased in the form of moldings. This material is supplied in lengths of 6 meters without bowls. In this case, the assembly is carried out by analogy with a trimmed beam, with the exception of laying the sealing material. The dowels are driven according to the technology described above.
• Double beam. Completely different technology. Boards are hammered into each other with a sledgehammer and special overlays. The verticality of the wall is ensured by driving cuts. With the help of the same cuts, a constant gap between the outer and inner walls is controlled. Before you start building a house from a double beam with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of working with this material. A slight violation of technology can lead to disastrous results.

Difficulties in the construction of walls are associated only with lifting the beam to a great height. 2-3 people are quite capable of assembling a house from a bar of any size.

Roof installation

One of the most difficult stages of building a house is the installation of a truss system. Even experienced builders treat this stage of work with the greatest responsibility. We will not delve into the complex shapes of the roof. If you decide to install a cuckoo roof, hip or complex multi-pitched roof, then you have a lot of your own knowledge. Consider the installation of a gable roof.

After laying the timber of the upper strapping, the future trusses are marked. The step of farms usually does not exceed 1.5 meters. The first farm is assembled on site, the rest can be sawn on the ground according to the pattern. First, two extreme trusses are installed, on which the ridge beam is laid. A cord is pulled to control the level of intermediate trusses. The crate is sewn from edged boards or OSB. The waterproofing contour is laid, the counter-rail is sewn on. Now you can lay the roofing material. The range of roofing materials is very wide, and you can find training for each of them on the Internet. The most simple for an inexperienced builder are profiled sheets, metal tiles, ondulin and onduvilla.

Finishing

Building a house under a roof is a big victory when building on your own. Now you can not worry about the durability of your log house.

Finishing work should begin with the facade. If a planed timber was used, then only its coloring with protective decorative compounds is required. In the case of working with edged timber, they are treated with an antiseptic and the facade is sheathed with finishing materials. Sheathing can be imitation timber, blockhouse, siding (vinyl or metal), facade panels, fiber cement siding or panels. Working with sheathing materials is always the same: installation of a crate from a bar or profile and fastening of sheathing material using self-tapping screws or special fasteners - a kleimer.

A special place in the decoration is the installation of windows and doors. Shrinkage of the log house in height requires the installation of additional shrink boxes. The simplest is the installation of draft T-shaped casing boxes. At the ends of the timber in the sawn openings, a groove of 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm is selected using a milling cutter. A beam is laid in it, along which the settling beam of the walls will slide. A dry board with a thickness of at least 40 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall is attached to this beam. A board of the same section is placed at the top and bottom. A gap of 2 to 10 cm is left above the top board of the box, depending on the material used (dry or natural humidity). Windows and doors can be safely installed in these boxes in accordance with their standard technology for brick houses.

You can talk a lot and for a long time about the interior decoration of the house and communications. A variety of finishing materials, engineering systems can lead even an experienced builder into the wilds. Try to study the issue specifically for your finish option. The Internet and the advice of experts on the forums will give you real help in this.

Conclusion

We only briefly told you about the stages of building a house from a bar with our own hands. Now it remains to make a decision - are you ready to go this way, or is it better to trust the professionals. Of course, you cannot do all the work yourself. But what part of the work to take into your own hands? You decide. Remember that illiterate work can only bring you additional costs, not savings.

For the construction of country cottages, various wall materials are used, each of which has its own characteristics. Many private developers who want to have an environmentally friendly and comfortable housing that does not require large construction costs choose timber. Today it is possible to build a log house using modern advanced materials and technologies, resulting in a beautiful, reliable and durable cottage. What are houses made of profiled timber, a photo and a description of the construction process in our article.

If you are thinking about how to build a house in the forest, then timber is the best option. Source ecolife33.ru

What is a bar

This is a building material that is made from wood by hewing. It has a square or rectangular section. The minimum cross-sectional size is 10 by 10 cm, the maximum is 40 by 40. This is a fairly strong and “warm” natural material that allows you to build houses on light, inexpensive foundations. A bar of resinous wood saturates the premises of the cottage with phytoncides (useful bactericidal substances). In addition, it refers to vapor-permeable materials. Thanks to this, a microclimate favorable for humans is formed inside the house.

The correct geometry of the beam facilitates the process of assembling the log house, and allows you to build walls without cracks and gaps. In the manufacture of timber, it is treated with special compounds that protect it from moisture, insects and rodents, while making the wood fire resistant. After completion of all stages of manufacturing, the material is dried using special equipment, as a result of which it shrinks by about 10%. There is also a bar of natural moisture, which dries (settles) under normal conditions for several months.

Source expertbrusa.ru

Professional developers use the following types of timber to build a house:

profiled;

• insulated.

profiled

This is a wood material with a rectangular cross section, which has recesses designed for the most dense joining of individual bars to each other. The front side of such a bar can be rounded or flat. The inside is usually flat. Profiled material eliminates the possibility of cracks in the wall. Thanks to the recesses, the construction of the log house is very quick and easy.

Source parki48.ru

Glued

Glued laminated timber is made from individual lamellas, which are pre-dried and then glued together with non-toxic glue. Due to the different direction of the fibers in the lamellas, the glued material is very durable. It almost does not shrink. Such a material can have a large length, which increases its versatility in application.

Source mega-les.ru

insulated

This version of the beam is distinguished by the presence of a hole between the front and back sides. This hole is filled with cellulose. The result is a material with improved thermal insulation characteristics.

Source giropark.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

wood species

Timber for building houses is made from rocks that are less susceptible to rotting and rodent attack than others. Mostly it is larch, spruce or pine. The tree with the most attractive characteristics is larch. It is durable, fireproof, and does not rot even in sea water. The resin secreted by larch acts as a natural antiseptic that protects it from insects. The only disadvantage of this type of wood is the high cost.

Spruce and pine are considered more economical options. Spruce is looser in structure and has many knots. However, with the right approach, high-quality building timber is made from it. Pine is more practical in every way. According to its characteristics, it is second only to larch.

Source giropark.ru

What material to choose

Currently, profiled and glued beams are especially actively used. The choice between these two options is based on their differences. So, glued wood is produced in a wider range of standard sizes. Due to the fact that the lamellas can be “spliced” in length, glued laminated timber can reach 18 linear meters, while profiled material has a length of up to 6 meters.

The thicker the wall elements, the better the walls made of it retain heat. However, solid profiled material with a cross section of more than 200 cm is rarely used, since thick bars are difficult to dry. Glued and here has less restrictions. If desired, you can purchase glued laminated timber with a cross section of 275 mm.

In terms of environmental friendliness, profiled material is considered more attractive, which is made without the use of glue. But in this matter, it should be remembered that responsible manufacturers use adhesives only from the class of safe compounds. In addition, profiled timber also does not remain completely environmentally friendly, since it must be covered with protective substances.

Source mybesedka.ru

The level of vapor permeability of profiled timber is higher. At the same time, glued material gives minimal shrinkage, has higher strength and is a more fire-resistant type of construction wood. In addition, a house made of glued laminated timber can be prepared for moving in immediately after assembly, and a building made of profiled material should stand for about six months until the shrinkage process is completed. In general, the indicators of glued wood are more acceptable, but profiled wood costs about 30% less, therefore it is in no less demand.

Recently, insulated (or double) timber has been increasingly used. Houses from it are warmer and stronger than from glued, as it is a structure made of wood, insulation and cross joints. Insulated timber weighs less than glued timber, but costs less. However, before building a wooden house from a bar of this type, you need to think carefully about its disadvantages. The main one is the rapid destruction of the insulation, which cannot be replaced in any way.

Source brus-zakaz.ru

double beam

Video description

Glued laminated timber and thermal timber differences and the cost of a turnkey house made of thermal timber - see the following video:

Construction stages

The technology of building a house from a bar at home is not particularly different from building a cottage from other building materials. But there are still some nuances.

Project

The engineering basis of a log house should be a high-quality professional project created by specialists who know how to properly build a house from a log. The architectural development takes into account all the characteristics of the material, and uses such solutions that enhance the dignity of wood buildings.

The beam is ideal for building small and medium-sized houses. But if you wish, you can build a large wooden mansion with complex architecture. In any case, the length of the walls is calculated taking into account the standard length of the beam (6 meters). In order for the designed log house to be built quickly, and at the same time a minimum of waste remains, the length of the walls, a multiple of 2 or 3 meters, is included in the project.

Source mebel-go.ru

Purchase of materials

Materials are purchased in accordance with the architect's calculations. It is very important to purchase all the necessary timber in a single purchase. This is especially true for profiled wood, in which the percentage of moisture content can differ significantly in different batches.

Site preparation

Any construction begins with the preparation of the site. At this stage, old buildings are dismantled, trees and shrubs that may interfere with construction are removed, and the ground is leveled.

Foundation

Timber cottages are built on strip foundations. Such a foundation is equipped in several steps. First, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the future building. Sand and gravel fall asleep at the bottom. All this is well tamped. Next, a wooden formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

Source www.tvoidom-tver.ru

Draft floor

The erection of a directly timber building begins with the laying of the lower crowns and the arrangement of the subfloor. At this stage, it is very important to know how to build a house from a bar so that it turns out to be warm and dry. The first step is to ensure effective waterproofing of the foundation. After that, the first crown is laid from carefully processed bars. Next, the floor is installed.

For the subfloor, logs are first laid - usually with a section of 150 by 100. To increase the reliability of the structure, a paddle is also laid from wider beams. Floor boards are laid across the lag. Put waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier on top. After that, the subfloor is covered with boards 40 mm thick.

Source brustroi.ru

Box assembly

The walls of the log house are laid out by layering crowns. All crowns with the help of dowels are pulled together. Internal and external wall structures are erected simultaneously. To fasten the internal partitions on the inside of the front walls, cuts are made through a row, into which the ends of the beams of the partitions are sunk.

Source parki48.ru

Roof

The roof consists of a truss system, lathing for fastening the roofing and the roofing itself. First, the upper crown is pulled together by laying solid beams with a section of 100 by 150. Then they are made of boards and rafter legs are installed. After that, the pediments are laid out.

A crate is constructed for laying the coating. After that, the roof is insulated and the coating is laid.

Windows and doors

Door and window openings are framed with racks. It is very important to provide a competent system of grooves and technological gaps around the openings so that double-glazed windows and doors do not interfere with the natural shrinkage process. Otherwise, wooden elements may deform and crack.

Video description

Installation of plastic windows in a house from a bar

Warming

In the construction of log houses, a practice is often used in which walls are built from a material with a small thickness, and then an insulation system is mounted. You can insulate the house from the outside or from the inside. In order for the wood to last longer, it is better not to cover it with insulation from the outside, but to make internal insulation. In this case, the wooden wall is insulated with hydro and vapor barrier, then a heater is installed, another layer of vapor and waterproofing is installed on top. The warming cake is sewn up with drywall, after which you can decorate the walls with any facing material.

Communications

All communications are brought to the house, according to a pre-prepared project. Particular attention is paid to safety when laying the electrical network and arranging the heating system.

Video description

Communications in a house from a bar

Finishing

Timber walls do not need front finishing. The exception is houses with insulation. Usually, after the construction of an insulating cake, the walls are decorated with natural wood panels so that the facades of the house and its internal walls form a single harmonious composition.

The floor in the house is covered with any floor covering. Usually the floors in timber cottages are quite warm. However, if desired, you can install a "warm floor" system.

The ceiling can be left open or decorated with a stretch fabric. Other ceiling finishes are undesirable due to shrinkage.

Video description

Let's talk about materials, about the entire cycle of the production process, the pros and cons of technology:

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of glued laminated timber from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Conclusion

Every year in the Moscow region more and more actively build a house from a bar. Such houses are being built quite quickly. But if you yourself do not know how to properly build a house from a bar, then professional builders can complete all the stages in a couple of months. The main thing is to take into account the features of the materials and provide everything so that it lasts as long as possible.

The choice of material is the primary problem that everyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable house on their site with their own hands faces. The modern building materials market can safely boast of a huge range of raw materials for every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it is not surprising, because a wooden beam is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is presented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with our own hands from profiled timber, since it is he who is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can easily carry out electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage.

Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools

Building a house without a good project is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take this stage extremely seriously, especially since it is on it that you can clearly understand what you can save on.

Ideally, you can seek help from special design agencies. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of the future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities, and most importantly, personal preferences.

If you do not have a need for some miracle of design ideas, then you can build a building using standard options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or you can use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed just for the planning of houses from a bar. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations, choose the type of truss system and much more.

Everything should be indicated on the drawing, from the overall dimensions of the building and the number of floors to the location of door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if this has not already been done, and the selection of the required materials and tools, including:

• Beam as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and spikes - bring it, install it - use it, also thanks to the perfectly flat and smooth surface of the edges there is no need for additional finishing work, or you can buy wooden blanks, and make the cuts yourself, there is nothing complicated in this, and you can save a lot.

Experts recommend taking a bar with a section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unskilled assistant, it is better to use material with a section of 150x100 mm. Such a beam is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade outside the building.

• Insulation.

To further save money, as a heater, you can use materials that, so to speak, are “at hand”. The best among these is considered moss. It is not difficult to find and process, and in terms of its technical characteristics it is identical to its artificial counterparts.

• Nails, self-tapping screws and other fastening structures (metal corners, wooden dowels, and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, roofing material).
• Ready-made concrete mortar or components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
• Reinforcement (if a strip foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Screwdriver.
• A hammer.
• Construction rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
• Cable for wiring electricity, TV.
• Master OK.
• Caulker.
• Other tools for small and decorative work.

Harvesting wood and moss for construction

In order to build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to knowing the technology of laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.

Each species, of course, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing that you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your house may simply fall apart very soon, if the density is low, then such material can shrink up to 20 or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw material is under-dried, then it will be simply impossible to work with it, over-dried - the material will become too unreliable.

Very serious requirements are imposed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low noise levels in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire hazardous material that can deform due to precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from conifers, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the high content of resinous substances, conifers are resistant to decay, cracking and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so they do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing a softwood timber, you can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.

If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this is an extra cost of effort, time and budget.

When harvesting, take into account the fact that it is better to do this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the lumber to the desired shape and size, treat with an antiseptic and leave to be stored in a dry place inaccessible to sunlight. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several transverse beams are inserted between them. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

In order for your house to keep warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing an interventional insulation. Professional builders use modern tape materials, but the price for such a pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses is a high flammability, since after drying the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, at high temperatures it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.

Moss must be collected, you can find it in a swampy area - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dry and store in a dry place for about two weeks. Plastic bags can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing wrong with this.

Foundation construction

A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main supporting structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high requirements are placed on him.

When building a house from a bar, three main types of foundation are used:

1. Pile-screw.
2. Nest.
3. Tape.

The choice of the type of foundation depends mainly on the soil on which the construction of the house is planned. This issue needs to be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses stand on, or look for information in documents on the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.

If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then one of the first two options is used. If it contains a large amount of sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.

The first thing to start with is cleaning the area from debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging, it is necessary to mark up. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along the bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them is simple. The next steps depend on the selected type of foundation.

Pile screw foundation

After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, we proceed to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures manually. Choose supports of the same size and be sure to have drills already welded on one end.

Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.

Nest foundation

The nest foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the marking of the territory has been carried out, at selected points along the perimeter it is necessary to dig holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, moistened and tightly packed. After that, support structures are inserted into them at a right angle, if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are covered with a mixture of sand and gravel.

There is also an option to install formwork in dug pits and pour concrete mortar to the ground level, we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1: 3 with sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.

The first step is to dig a trench with a width of 10-15 centimeters more than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.

There are several options for the strip foundation, among them:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them it is necessary to prepare the basis. A layer (10 cm) of sand is laid at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and carefully compacted; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of rubble, broken bricks or small stones is poured over it.

By the way, geotextiles can be pre-laid at the bottom of the trench, and heat-insulating material can be installed along the outer edge - this will help prevent freezing of a shallow foundation.

On the resulting pillow, if it is planned to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install the formwork. Inside, it is necessary to pour a layer of mortar to the level of the ground surface and tamp. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already from above, after the solution has completely solidified, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.

If a concrete base is planned, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, bumps and other defects.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between rows is 5-10 cm. The result should be a grid with cells of 15-20 sq. cm. prepare personally. We recommend spending money on a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement manually is quite long and difficult. Pre-formwork must be moistened with water or wrapped with a layer of plastic film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution solidifies. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places, later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and a few more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for wiring.

Construction and insulation of walls and floors

The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, the “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and simple type of end cuts, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be filled with mounting foam. To cut the end cut, you can use a hacksaw, in order to remove excess material, go through the chisel.

So, if the slats rot, they will be easier to replace than a whole row of timber. The boards also need to be treated with an antiseptic or ground to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and laid out on a foundation covered in two layers with waterproofing material, such as roofing material.

The beam of the first row should be slightly larger than the crowns of the other rows, for example, if material with a section of 150x150 mm is used for walls, then for the first row use the option with a section of 200x200 mm.

It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the boards using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to attach to them, the so-called cranial beam, on which the edged board for the subfloor will be laid in the future. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it, insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or any other modern analogue. The next layer is a vapor barrier, and after - a finishing floor.

All subsequent rows are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• "With the remainder" is when a small part of the timber sticks out from its two ends.
• "Without a remainder."

The picture below shows different types of end cuts.

This manipulation can be done using a circular saw or a jigsaw. Options "A" and "D" ("no residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option "Z" is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that the tenon-groove joints must be left with a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.

Between themselves, the rows are fastened with wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the second ones, since the lumber will not crack during drying, which will ensure the durability of your building.

Using pins for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the beam of one row of dowels passes through, and the beam of the lower row is only partially, or you can use short dowels, for this, holes are cut from two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that pins should not be located on top of each other. In order for the design to be as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your house turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and a rectangular protrusion right in the center at the end of the second, so you get a tenon-groove connection.

The space between the crowns can be insulated with pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, while the moss is simply thrown over the top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not scary, since work on caulking is planned in the future, and it, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.

In order for the bars of one row to be at the same height, we use a rubber mallet, tapping it along the walls after installing each bar. The planer is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row, it is impossible to install the timber of the upper row.

*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.

The last two rows of crowns are not attached, since in the future, after shrinkage, a rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.

To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, after making a mark, cut out the necessary holes with an electric jigsaw, or use beams of this length in advance so that they later form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door itself or the window, as there is still room for the installation of window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the beam shrinks, not to damage the construction of windows and doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.

Roofing roof

After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the roof and facing work.

There are a huge number of variations of roofs. The most reliable and stable is considered to be a four-pitched or hipped roof, it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable roof. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.

First you need to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing material. It needs to be applied in two layers. After fastening, the Mauerlat is the base for the truss system, in which special cutouts are made, with which the rafter legs are attached. Mauerlat will serve as the top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The rafters themselves, depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, must be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter, if more, it is planned to install additional supports. A wooden crate of slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide is installed on the rafter legs in increments that depend on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end-to-end, if slate or corrugated board - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes a counter-lattice is installed, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two crates.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are fastened using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The rest of the manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the finishing and rough ceiling, you can additionally lay insulation, insulation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.

In order for the roof to be stable, strong, withstand strong winds and last for many years, you should think about additional supporting structures, such as crossbars, struts, puffs, racks and others. All of them are fastened with hardware, such as steel corners and self-tapping screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for the chimney and an attic, if one is planned. The fronts of the roof can be sewn up with clapboard, decorative block house.

Remember! Every roof needs repair over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend checking the coating annually for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, and so on), and the leak is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.

Let's summarize

The last stage of construction work is the installation of entrance and interior doors and windows. If necessary, work is carried out to insulate and decorate the walls either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, connect the sewerage system.

Now that you know the main stages of building a house from a bar on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can start building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.

Building a house from a bar is one of the most popular types of construction contracts in the private sector today. The revival of interest in wooden construction in all countries of the temperate and in a significant part of the cold climatic zones is quite natural. Wooden houses are good not only and not so much for their “spirit”, “breath”, “environmental friendliness”, and modern methods of wood processing make them quite safe and durable. At the same time, information is clearly mythical and clearly commercially directed on the market of wooden houses. In this article, we will try to give the reader an objective idea about the features of log houses, their advantages, disadvantages, and try to conclude where and in what cases it is advisable to build a log house.

Key Benefits

The first main advantage of a log house is the same as that of all wooden houses: the foundation for it can be of a lightweight type -, not buried, insulated. Why, it is clear: wooden structures are lighter than stone ones and more resilient.

Next Factor- the technology of construction from a bar actually does not require technological breaks. More precisely, it does not require “deaf” breaks, when the building should simply settle down and nothing can be done there. That you can immediately move into a log house is, of course, nonsense. But, firstly, a year is enough for him to completely shrink, while a brick one needs 2-3. Secondly, while the log house is settling, a lot of things can be done in it, which you won’t have to do later, see below.

Other main advantages of solid wood houses (chopped and prefabricated beams, see below) are due to the ratio of the heat capacity of wood to its thermal conductivity. In modern climatic conditions - global warming and more frequent anomalous, warm and cold winters - it turns out to be optimal from the point of view of heat engineering. For brick and stone, this ratio is too high, and for aerated concrete, insulated frame and composite structures (SIP panels, etc.) it is not enough.

What does it look like in practice? An adult in a calm state emits approx. 60 watts of heat. A family of 5 people, not all the time lounging in an armchair - approx. 350 W. Lighting, household appliances, heat generation during cooking in the kitchen give another, on average per day, 700-1200 watts. Roughly speaking, about 1.3 kW of waste heat is stably emitted in the house. In a brick building, not to mention a concrete one, this heat will uselessly go into the walls, and from there out. In aerated concrete or composite, it will have to be released into the ventilation or through the window, otherwise it will become hot. And in a wooden one, it will be evenly distributed in time and space.

With intensive combustion, such an addition is imperceptible, but when the boiler is working almost “at the gatehouse”, fuel savings are very noticeable. True, for pyrolysis and solid fuel flame boilers in this mode, the efficiency drops sharply, but for gas and surface combustion boilers this effect is weakly expressed. As for furnace heating, it becomes possible to reduce the number of heatings per day without reducing the fuel load to a value at which the efficiency of the furnace drops. The advantages of a log house for stove heating are especially clear if the stove is 2-mode, “spring / autumn - winter”.

The next advantage of timber / log houses is related to the previous one: the mechanical properties and geometry of wood properly prepared for construction do not deteriorate from periodic freezing / warming up, unless the wood is saturated with moisture to the drop. The reason is very thin pores in it. Water in ultra-narrow capillaries freezes at a temperature well below 0, only becomes viscous. That is why winters survive under the snow, and in frozen soil or under the bark of trees - wintering animal trifles. The walls of a brick and aerated concrete house, if it has to be heated at a minimum for 2-3 years in a row, can become damp and begin to crumble after another 3-5 seasons. The thermal insulation of the frame wall from the "underdone" also dampens; composite panels delaminate. And a wooden house can be left unheated as many times as you like, and after the start of the furnace, it will warm up in 2-4 hours, and not in 2-3 days, like a stone one. In the Russian outback, you can find wooden log cabins abandoned to the mercy of fate 50-100 years ago. Many of them can be moved in after renovation.

Note: a log is a round beam, and the techniques for building a log house and a log house are very similar. Therefore, further the log is considered on a par with the beam, specifying specifically what is at stake, only if there is a difference in relation to this moment.

Can you do it yourself?

Is it possible to build a house from a bar with your own hands is also a very relevant topic. As can be seen from the previous one, the main advantages of individual log houses are manifested outside the coverage area of ​​centralized heating networks. The departure of the construction team to the site greatly increases the cost of construction, and you will have to pay the full amount for it right away, which not everyone can do. And to negotiate with the performers about the work in parts - the construction costs will burst and the "cool" budget.

Timber construction, except for the zero cycle(pit - foundation - basement) does not require the use of special equipment or complex tools. A physically strong man is capable of handling a 6-meter beam alone; sometimes you may need an unqualified assistant for a while. How to build a house from a bar with your own hands, see a selection of videos:

Video: do-it-yourself log house in stages

Stage 1: the whole box before shrinkage

Stage 2: initial finishing

Stage 3: final finishing

Stage 4: ladder device

As you can see, it is quite possible to build a house from a bar without being a professional carpenter and builder in general. That the head and hands needed for this are what is needed, it is clear and so. But what can be achieved (in the sense - what house to build), and what initial skills do you need to have for this - the questions are already more serious.

What can a bar?

From a bar, you can build houses up to 3 storeys with an attic and a total area of ​​​​up to 600-700 square meters. m. Architectural forms - angular; a selection of photos gives an idea of ​​​​the possibilities of timber construction. Log log suppliers offer material with ready-made bowls not only at 90 degrees to the log axis, but also at 45, 60, 30, which allows you to assemble faceted structures. In principle, smoothly curved timber walls can be assembled from curved timber, but the price is exorbitant.

About warming

Many sources state that log houses are suitable mainly for seasonal living. The reason is that for the average family budget, construction from timber up to 200x200 is feasible; the most popular size is 150x150. In terms of heat engineering, such a wall is equivalent to 1.5 bricks, which is not enough for Central Russia. However, firstly, timber houses can be insulated from the outside under without restrictions, it turns out that it is easier and cheaper than similar stone insulation. Secondly, the thermal properties of wood make it possible to insulate a permanently inhabited (and heated in cold weather) house from the inside; see a typical diagram of the internal insulation of a timber house in fig. on right. Thirdly, there are timber construction techniques (see below) that allow you to place a heater in the wall. In general, a bar foot, i.e. a wall that is equal to or better than 2.5 bricks in terms of thermal engineering is real.

Note: wooden building timber is produced up to a section size of 300x300, which is equivalent in terms of heat to a wall of 2 bricks, but the price of such material skyrockets.

How to be a teapot?

Is it possible to put such beauty without the experience of a carpenter and builder? Generally without experience, on a bare theory, nothing can be done at all. Theory can generalize the existing experience, clarify something incomprehensible in it, discern something in the experimental data that previously eluded general attention. On this basis, theory can extend existing experience and look far ahead of it. But the theory is based only and only on experimental data. Speculative speculations have never brought any benefit to anyone and anywhere.

Specifically, in relation to this case: in order to assemble a foot from a solid 6th beam, you need to make 36-50 longitudinal cuts and the same number of transverse cuts. Cutting width - 2.5-3 mm. The error in maintaining dimensions during manual unskilled work is twice as large. It does not converge to half according to the law of large numbers, as with an experienced worker: due to the accumulation of fatigue, an inexperienced hand leads in one direction. With a wall height of 3 m, a flaw will run up to 9-15 cm, randomly in the corners. Will such a house stand? The question is rhetorical. And the corners, ceilings, roof, partitions? And openings, communications?

In addition to the accumulation of error, there are other factors leading to marriage. To level them in the process of work consciously beyond the limits of human capabilities, working skills are needed. It is possible to work them out to automatism by first placing a non-residential or seasonal timber structure with a plan size of approx. up to 4x5 m - a barn, a bathhouse, a utility block, a country house. He will already be able to “keep everything in his mind” and “a full teapot”, if only he was a “teapot” not by his essence and not by conviction. And in the process of work, purely mechanical skills will be developed, allowing you to take on a residential building.

If you have already built something similar, after reading the following, watch another video as carefully as possible and start preparatory work. If not, read on anyway. This will allow you, firstly, to greatly reduce the cost of designing. Secondly, choose a suitable contractor: hacks in this sector are a flood. Thirdly, it is also competent to select and, possibly, independently purchase the material.

Note: It is best to start building a log house in winter. The tree of autumn-winter harvesting gives the least shrinkage, and the previously cut down tree will have time to rest reasonably.

Design and technology

The general scheme of the construction of a log house with an attic is given in fig. below. It can be collected not only chopped. If you are not planning anything more complicated than building a seasonal one-story house up to approx. 6x6 m in plan from a bar 150x150, then it is possible to use beam-and-beam construction techniques. At the same time, in the corners and under the piers in the mortgage (lowest) crown of the box, which in this case is not a log house, they put combatants on spikes, i.e. vertical bars, pos. And in the drawing in Fig. on right.

The simplest way to assemble stop beams into walls is to use a plug-in tenon-groove, as shown in fig. As spikes, you can use ready-made lamellas of a suitable size, only rectangular, not furniture elliptical! The grooves for them are selected with a manual wood router. A more durable structure, suitable for housing in places not particularly windy and snowy, can be placed in this way on root spikes; better - with a frying pan, see below, but a special factory-made beam is needed, because. a manual milling machine for wood will not turn a cutter of the right size.

An additional condition is the roof crossbar, i.e. its entire load-bearing structure, including the truss system, and the building frame must be mechanically self-sufficient. Simply put, so that the entire roof can be removed, put side by side, let lie down for 2-3 months, and then put back without violating the design of both. The reason is that prefabricated-beam lumber boxes are not able to bear the loads that burst them.

Note: feet of prefabricated beam walls need to be fastened with dowels, as in the next. case.

real lumber

So, we are building a log house. The base is a log cabin, a very strong and rather elastic box of recumbent beams, fastened together by cuts in the corners and in the places where the walls are removed. This means that you will need to master several types of cutting timber, see fig. For log cabins in oblo, a simple cutting into the bowl is most often used; for a 1-storey house with an attic, it is quite enough. It is better to assemble a log house of a high-rise building into a fat tail, this is the most difficult, but the most reliable way. For a log house made of glued laminated timber (see below), cutting into ocher will be no worse.

When cutting without a residue, cutting into the paw is commonly used. Methods b, c, d are recommended for non-residential or seasonal buildings up to 1.5 floors. Methods a and e give a strong log house, but are not recommended for places with an annual rainfall of more than 300 mm or wet areas. Method w is used to assemble light, and h - load-bearing partitions.

Note: the frying pan looks like a dovetail joint, but is not. Dovetail - angular furniture connection of flat parts on a set of trapezoidal spikes and resp. grooves.

Logs in a log house are also cut in several ways; on both halves of Fig. they are arranged, from left to right, in order of increasing complexity and reliability. Currently, rounded logs for log cabins with ready-made bowls under 90, 45 are on sale; sometimes - under 30 and 60 degrees. The spacing of the bowls along the length is 1.2, 1.5 and 3 m. Before designing or distributing the house (see below), you need to decide on the supplier of the material and link the log house project to the spacing of the bowls.

About the logs will have to jump ahead a bit. Most of the cylindered logs go on sale with a ready-made moon groove, pos. 1 next. rice. If there are doubts about the quality of harvesting and aging of wood, it is better to take a log from the so-called. Finnish groove - a longitudinal slot at the top, pos. 2. Cracking of non-laminated timber of any kind is inevitable. The Finnish groove provokes the appearance of a primary crack where it is most difficult for moisture and pest germs to get into it, and when the cracks go along the sides, the log will turn into almost pure lignin, more resistant to harmful influences.

The timber log should not be stored necessarily under a canopy, but certainly at some elevation and on beds with a thickness of 150 mm or more, laid at least 2 m apart (to avoid sagging logs), and the rows in the stack should be laid with slats with a thickness of 50 mm or more, pos . 3. The highest quality timber is stored on concreted sites with a slope for rain and melt water runoff, pos. 4 in stacks oriented longitudinally in a north-south direction.

But back to the feet of the bars in the walls. In addition to the corner and intermediate cuts, to prevent longitudinal and transverse displacement during shrinkage, their assembly is reinforced with dowels - round wooden pins, see next. rice. Dowels with a diameter of 30 mm are used to connect along the length and at the corners of the cuts in the paw and in the middle of the tree, and the cuts in the root tenon are reinforced with 20 mm dowels. Nagels are not necessarily made of hard wood; the main thing is that the wood of the dowels dries out faster than the drill, otherwise the bars will hang on the dowels, the walls will split and weaken. For 1-storey houses made of pine timber, aspen dowels are suitable, they do not rot. Birch is stronger, but only suitable for partitions in dry rooms, because. birch is very susceptible to rot and mold. The best, but the most expensive pins are oak.

Recently, another way to fasten the bars in the foot has appeared: with steel bolts with wood threads. They are driven into the lower beam by half or 2/3 of its thickness, and in the upper beam a wide hole with a depth of 1/3 of its thickness is selected under the bolt head. 2 washers are placed under the bolt head with a spring between them. At first, the bolt is tightened tightly, and in the process of shrinkage, the springs compress the foot. This allows you to fend off not only the correct shrinkage of the beam, but also its rather strong warpage, see below. Theoretically, everything looks perfect here, but this technology has been used relatively widely for less than 10 years. The minimum allowable service life of residential buildings is 40 years, so it is too early to unambiguously recommend bolted screeds.

Caulking and shrinkage

As the timber stack is set, it is caulked with linen or jute ribbons with an overlap of 5 cm to the sides. After assembling the foot, the caulks are pushed into the grooves, this is the so-called. first padding or tuck. Then, if the log house is still without a roof, the tops of the walls are covered with roofing material and the log house is left to shrink, up to a year. At this time, communications can be laid inside it and some other work can be done, see the video above. Shrinkage is controlled by rails with marks installed in the corners. If the openings of windows and doors are not cut out in a settled log house, but are formed by trimming the beams immediately, they must be made higher than the calculated ones. minimum possible the amount of shrinkage of this beam. They are cut to size later. The final caulking with a tourniquet is made under the roof after shrinkage of the log house.

About the ends

It is not necessary to paint over and tar the ends of the timber. Although the tree draws moisture mainly along the ends, it also dries evenly along them. In a finished unpainted log house, 2-3 years after construction, in dry summer, it is useful to saturate the ends of the outward facing ends with a water-polymer emulsion 2-3 times. It will not affect the appearance of the house in any way, but the likelihood of developing fracturing, rot and mold will drop sharply.

Mortgage crown

The Achilles' heel of wooden houses is the lowest, mortgage, crown of the log house. Between it and the foundation, capillary jamming is inevitable, i.e. the accumulation of moisture that has settled directly from the air, and the rotten mortgage crown requires the restructuring of the entire log house. To avoid this, SNiPs recommend raising the mortgage crown above the foundation by 5 cm, but how? Wooden slats rot, steel mesh in several layers or pressed small metal waste rust, cement screed leads to the same clogging, only higher. The most effective way to neutralize capillary moisture is given by the same SNiP: a mortgage crown and, preferably, another 1-2 above it - from larch. It is not impregnated, constantly in musty water, it lasts for 100 years or more. In this case, the lower crown is simply laid without a gap on 2 layers of roofing material laid on the foundation.

Design

For the construction of a timber residential building, an approved project is required. Minimizing design costs will also result in significant savings in overall costs. Standard projects are the cheapest, and they do not charge a separate fee for their own more or less reputable contractors. But it is not always possible to fit into the "tipovukha" either according to one's own needs or according to local conditions. In this case, computer programs for building design will help. There are several of these, focused on private log houses:

• VisiCon - interior design and layout, designed for amateurs. You have to start with her. If everything that you want in the house fits in a "tipovuha", then is it worth straining your wallet, yourself and people's heads?
• FloorPlan 3D + Dom-3D, for facades and stairs - will allow a non-professional, up to the user, to get a sketch, according to which the designer will understand exactly what the customer wants. This will reduce the cost of consulting with specialists and finalizing the project.
• CyberMotion 3D-Designer is a semi-professional software designed for a user who can read technical documentation and is superficially familiar with automatic design systems (CAD, CAD). According to the competent use of this software, the specialist will only have to check the project and submit it for approval.
• Total 3DHome Design Deluxe, HomePlan Pro, Xilinx Planahead are professional products. If you have already designed houses on your own, here you have at your disposal extensive sets of templates, databases of technical and architectural solutions.

The SEMA software deserves special attention - a complete software package for designing timber and frame houses. A beginner is also able to master it, but the result is:

1. General layout and premises.
2. Determination of the dimensions of surfaces and openings along the axes.
3. Weight distribution is the determination of the centers of gravity of all structural elements, which will greatly simplify the work of the designer, and give the customer serious reasons to demand a discount on the project.
4. The layout of the truss system for the selected roof, the calculation of the crate and roofing pie. The effect is the same as before. case.

Particularly valuable directly to the builder in SEMA is the beaming - a full calculation of the beam for building a house:

• Layout in rows along the axes.
• House kit cards.
• Summary material sheet with specifications of all elements.
• Schemes of the layout of the timber on the crowns.

Having an accurate distribution, you can, firstly, while the papers are wandering through the authorities, reduce the estimate for construction and calculate your capabilities for it. Secondly, find a supplier, select and order material in real life. Thirdly, by spreading, you can purchase materials in parts as needed, and not lay out the entire amount at once.

Material selection

Now we hit the material. Here we have to learn the difference between the concepts of shrinkage and warpage, which we have already encountered earlier. Shrinkage is a proportional decrease in the linear dimensions of the timber due to a uniform loss of moisture and under the influence of mechanical loads, primarily weight. Warping - shrinkage that distorts the geometry of the part. Occurs from uneven drying, regardless of the action of mechanical loads, see fig.

If shrinkage is normalized for different types of wood and types of lumber, then the warping effect is certainly harmful and is unacceptable for high-quality commercial wood. A raw tree, depending on the conditions of drying, may not warp, but a seasoned tree, if stored incorrectly, will lead. Given these circumstances it is possible to build a good house from a bar:

1. Wild, or wild hemp - from the forest, which had lain on the timber exchange for an indefinite time before sawing. The cheapest. Shrinkage up to 10%, humidity is not standardized, it is not guaranteed against the development of cracking and warping with proper further storage;
2. Aged edged - it goes into sawing brought to air dryness of 20%. In regions with developed logging and timber industry, it is not much more expensive than wild, but the shrinkage is approx. in 7%, fracturing is normalized (see below), does not warp if stored properly;
3. Aged profiled - the properties are the same as in paragraph 2, but more convenient to use. The price is slightly higher than that of the edged one. The most popular type;
4. Glued - the bars are glued together from individual boards / planks (lamellas), seasoned and impregnated. Only profiled, more expensive than aged. Surpasses everything before. views in all respects, except for one: in most profiles, see below, glue joints are visible and it is noticeable that the tree is not natural;
5. Rusk - from a suharnik, high-quality dead wood. Zero shrinkage, development of fracturing, warpage and rot are excluded. Very expensive, because in all civilized countries, including the Russian Federation, the tapping of the bark from the butt of a living tree to obtain a biscuit is considered a predatory logging method, prohibited by law and prosecuted.

The savage and the sawed-off

Types of edged timber, from left to right in ascending order of price per 1 cu. m, shown in Fig. In the construction of a house, not only 4-edged clean-cut, as is commonly believed, can be used. For example, 2-edged gives a two-sided imitation of a log without making a moon groove and rounded bowls, which is difficult or even impossible with a hand tool. 3-edged allows you to simulate a log from the outside, leaving a flat surface inside. 4-edged wane gives an outer wall that is more resistant to atmospheric moisture. To do this, you need to collect the foot with wane, facing outward and oriented upward. Rows of small cornices-teardrops are formed on the wall, which greatly reduce the penetration of water into the grooves even with very slanting rain.

Note: sleepers look similar to beams, but are more expensive because they are additionally normalized for knotty, serrated, oblique, etc., which is not essential in construction.

Profiled timber

A house made of profiled timber is not only easier to build, it is also more economical in terms of heat, because. through cracks in the walls occur when the deformation of the beam is greater than that of the edged one, approx. the same as in a log cabin. Also, the profile beam ensures the evenness of the wall surface, because. protrusions and grooves of the profile keep it from transverse displacement. But, contrary to popular belief, it is still necessary to reinforce the foot from the profiled beam with dowels: all of a sudden warping will start, thin protrusions will simply tear.

Comparative characteristics of solid seasoned and glued profiled timber are given in Table. in fig., and how it looks natural is shown in the photo below. Add to table data. and there are few pictures left.

First of all, about national standards for shrinkage. In Europe, poor in timber and free areas for storage areas for timber, its allowable value is 2%, or 2 cm per meter resp. array size. With a foot height of 3 m, this gives 6 cm, which is not very good, but Europeans stand up to their standards.

There is no need to compare Russian glued laminated timber from the best manufacturers with quality standards, it can itself serve as such a standard. But, unfortunately, in this very profitable sector, a host of medium-small manufacturers are working, many of which, if they heard about the standards, then, pardon the expression, they wanted to spit on them deeply and from a high place. The Canadian timber is not inferior to the Russian one, but they say about such prices in Odessa: oh, mother, give birth to me back! So it is better to order a high-quality timber construction on a turnkey basis with a guarantee(a year for a log house is enough for all defects to appear), and for the budget one, take seasoned solid profiled timber.

Secondly, glued laminated timber is produced with a thickness of 50 mm, and its high performance makes it possible to assemble hollow walls from it, pos. 3 in the photo. The gap is filled with expanded clay, foam concrete and other non-combustible insulation; in addition, the resulting honeycomb structure is more rigid and wind resistant. This makes it possible to build a house from glued beams in difficult, up to extreme, climatic conditions. The hollow insulated lumber wall is, as it were, two-mode: in the off-season, with a minimum firebox, it behaves like a wooden one in terms of heat, see above, and if it “gets hot”, the insulation comes into operation.

Thirdly, the performance of a wall made of glued laminated timber is determined not so much by its profile as by the gluing scheme, see Fig.:

• Horizontal gluing is the most reliable, because the adhesive seam is compressed by the weight of the overlying structures. The disadvantage is that the seam is visible.
• Vertical gluing bars are suitable for buildings up to 2 floors.
• From cabin bars, you can build houses of any number of storeys and structures acceptable for timber. Also, salon must necessarily be high-quality bars with a thickness of 200 mm or more.
• A glued log in operation is completely similar to a solid one, but its technical parameters correspond to the conditions for glued beams, which are much more stringent, see above. True, glue seams give out its artificial origin.

Summing up + prices

The price of timber houses per 1 sq. m of total area varies significantly depending on the availability of raw materials, the degree of development of the forestry and woodworking industries in the region, logistics infrastructure, finally, the season, current demand and competition among contractors. Focusing on yourself, you need to consider the following.

First of all, for houses with a total area of ​​more than 100 sq. m, but up to 200 sq. m, you need to multiply the average price in this place by 1.15, and for houses over 200 sq. m - by 1.25. The reason is the technological difficulties of assembling walls longer than the standard beam length of 6 m. The same coefficients apply for 1.5-2 and more than 2 storeys.

Secondly, the turnkey price does not mean that you can bring furniture into the house and celebrate housewarming. In the "plug-and-play" house you will receive:

1. In a house made of wild timber there will be no finished floor, but there will be empty openings, because. it must stand until the final finish of the year.
2. In a house made of seasoned and glued laminated timber - a laid floor, windows, doors.
3. Other surfaces prepared for fine (decorative) finishing.
4. Divorced communications, but without installed plumbing, heating, cooking and lighting fixtures. Maximum - makeshift light bulbs dangling on wires.
5. There will be no exterior cladding, unless otherwise specified in the contract.

In general, averaging across the Russian Federation, the price of 1 sq. m log house on a turnkey basis is:

• from wild edged timber - 350-400 USD;
• from seasoned solid profiled timber - 600-750 USD;
• from Russian-made glued laminated timber with a one-year warranty - 1100-1300 USD.

A brick house on the same conditions will cost 850-1000 USD per 1 sq. m. Taking into account the fact that the finishing of a log house is cheaper (except for plasterboard sheathing), it goes like this. Nevertheless, the construction of a log house may be more profitable, firstly, from places with a developed timber industry, but a shortage of mineral raw materials. Secondly, oddly enough, in the southern regions, due to savings on heating in the off-season and warm winters.