What floor to make in a one-story house. Floor device in a private house made of wood

The most common version of the foundation for small private houses, when a non-buried strip foundation is made (there is no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing groundwater, and the relief of the site is homogeneous, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located under a large slope, soil moisture during the year is excessive, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. Features of the device of both floor options in private homes will be considered in this article.

Features of the foundation device

The advantage of floors that rest directly on the underlying soil layers is that they do not carry an additional load on the foundation of a private house. The floors of the first floor, which do not come into contact with the soil, provide for the device of a kind of floor slab, which is based on the foundation. Therefore, the second option requires taking these features into account when designing and calculating the required width of the base sole.

If the base of the floor of the first floor is reinforced concrete slab, you should definitely take care of the waterproofing of the foundation itself and the place of its contact with the overlapping structure, especially if this option is chosen due to high humidity soil. A slab that is not insulated with a hydrobarrier will pull moisture from the foundation, which will lead to its premature destruction and loss of strength, as well as the penetration of dampness into the house. In addition, care should be taken to ventilate the space between the ceiling and the soil, thereby reducing the level of humidity here.

The device of the floor of the first floor on the ground

This method of arranging floors in a private house where there is no basement is considered the simplest in terms of execution and inexpensive in terms of material costs. There are two main options that apply in this case:

device concrete base floor (screed);
installation of wooden floors on logs.

Each of the presented options has its own characteristics, both in the sense of the complex necessary work as well as in terms of the end result. The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or timber, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building, a screed is better. But this is not an absolute pattern, so there may be other combinations.

Concrete insulated screed

The base of concrete, which is poured on the ground, has long been used in all kinds of utility and technical buildings, such as garages, sheds, warehouses. On the first floors of private houses without a basement, concrete screeds have been used relatively recently as the basis for finishing flooring. Several factors influenced the popularization of this method, such as:

the need to create smooth horizontal surfaces, which require some types of modern flooring;
the emergence of affordable materials for effective thermal insulation;
arrangement of systems of water heat-insulated floors for heating.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly create a concrete screed on the ground on the ground floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Preparatory work begins with tamping the soil and adding a pillow for a rough screed. The soil can be compacted both manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, and mechanical devices that exist for this purpose. In order for the ramming process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial layer of backfill is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most accessible material is used first. It could be construction garbage or clay.

Further, the pillow is formed by a layer of large gravel, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The gravel creates a rigid base, roughly levels the surface and prevents a possible capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. On top of the gravel, a sandy (or small gravel) pillow is formed about 5-7 cm thick. The quality of the sand does not play a role here, so a clay-saturated quarry option is quite suitable. The sand cushion is leveled as much as possible, after which a durable plastic film is laid. The latter performs two functions:

the first layer of waterproofing;
an obstacle to the water contained in the concrete.

The film is laid continuously with a wall approach of up to 15 cm. Now you can pour a rough layer of concrete. For these purposes, a lean mortar is usually prepared, where the ratio of fillers (sand and gravel) and cement is approximately 9:1. Here, instead of crushed stone, if possible, you can use expanded clay. A pillow made of expanded clay concrete will provide additional insulation for the base of the floor. The rough screed is formed with a layer of about 10 cm. Despite the fact that the initial filling does not have to have an ideal surface, it is desirable to level it more carefully. This will facilitate further waterproofing and laying insulation.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand is not suitable. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce the strength of the concrete slab and lead to its cracking. For these purposes, you need river sand or washed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

The draft layer is usually not reinforced, since the load on it is small. After pouring, a break in work is necessary to allow the concrete to gain strength. Although the material completely crystallizes within 26-28 days, it is sufficient to wait a week. During this time, concrete with sufficient moisture gains about 70% strength. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the proper moistening of the concrete surface, especially if the work is carried out during the hot season. To do this, abundantly moisten the ripening concrete 1-2 times a day.

How to make waterproofing and insulate the floor?

For the main waterproofing layer, it is better to use not a polyethylene sheet, but a full-fledged, reliable material. Here it will be enough to process the rough concrete base with bitumen, followed by laying the rolled material. Suitable roofing material or hydrostekloizol. The rolls are rolled out with an overlap of adjacent strips by 10-15 cm. Hot gluing in this case can be omitted, but the joints can be processed bituminous material necessarily. The rolled material is laid on the surface of the wall above the level of the intended finishing screed.

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, as it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic, and its plates usually have tongue/groove-type docking elements at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. The seams between the sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or processed special glue. Foam also needs to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and polystyrene foam.

Finishing fill

For these purposes, a solution is prepared with a normal ratio of 4:2:1, or 3:3:1, where, respectively, gravel, sand, cement. Before finishing pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a mesh for reinforcement and install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve a strictly horizontal surface.

Reinforcing mesh can be used metal with a cell of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. The reinforcing elements are laid with an overlap (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for temperature changes linear dimensions screeds. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but should be located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means (bottle caps, brick fragments, etc.).

After the installation of the final base of the floor and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for its full maturation and proceed with laying the final floor covering.

Wooden floor installation

In spite of big variety modern flooring, wooden floors have a lot of adherents among consumers. This can be understood given that wood is the most environmentally friendly material that can create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, the modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which appearance in no way inferior to parquet.

Classic way floor board flooring involves the presence of a log, - wooden beams, which are located in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the ground floor of a private house, when the floors are laid on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work until the creation of a rough foundation and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the device of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable leveled concrete base is also required.

After installing the bearing bars, the floor should be insulated. The use of expanded polystyrenes is undesirable here, since these materials do not allow steam to pass through, which can cause water condensate to form, which will adversely affect the wood. In addition, foam, for example, can be chosen by rodents, which will entail some discomfort.

For a wooden floor on the logs of the first floor of a private house, it is better to use mineral wool, or rather one of its varieties. However, when laying mineral wool, you should take care of the moisture insulation of the insulation. If the hydrobarrier has already been created from below (on top of the rough screed), then it remains only to arrange the top layer of the hydrobarrier film.

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises. primarily, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private house can be done in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

The most popular and comfortable floor for the house has always been considered wooden, since wood, unlike concrete, is a warm material in itself.
Concrete pavements are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with a wooden floor.
Raised or floating floors were not so popular with homeowners in the past, but more and more people are turning to this option recently, as it is easy to set up and can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made of beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, narrow corridor or small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Floors on pillars

Floors on support pillars do in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs with the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on supporting pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house for installation brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the column should be, the greater its width and thickness.

Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug pits, then it is filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out in good faith.

Red brick pillars are laid on a compacted pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm in cross section. The erected pillars are leveled, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.

On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded studs are embedded or anchors are installed, on which floor beams will subsequently be fixed.

It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then the supporting pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future premises, but in this case massive beams must be laid on them.

After the poles are ready, on them upper part waterproofing material is laid. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.

Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting studs will pass.

Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled with wooden lining boards. When the floor base is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with nails, and the bars themselves also need to be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs are too high, it is cut off with a grinder.

It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and additionally insulate the floors.

In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all conditions have been created for this. If it is planned to immediately lay the floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Draft floor

The draft floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a particular method will depend on the material of insulation.

If slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are smeared with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. A heater is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams with a stapler and staples.

Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a good example of subfloor installation

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this. focusing on which you can make a work plan.

The soil in the underground must be well tamped, and a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, should be placed on it, and then tamped again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing material, is laid on a compacted pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
For waterproofing, lay bricks on the mortar or concrete blocks, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (the standard width of the insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
On bricks, and better - on concrete blocks wooden beams, align them in level, and fix with a corner.
Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
On top of the heater, cash agi fix the vapor barrier film.
Then the floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into its side part.
The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When laying the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you can not save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lag is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. The markup is done by beating the line with color.
Further, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs with clamps are installed, located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs embedded in the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
Nuts are screwed on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next steps are the installation of a subfloor, insulation and flooring of a clean floor.

Fastening the log directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

Stripes are beaten off on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Further using anchor fastening logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. At the same time, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
All over the wall strips cut off from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, on the covered polyethylene are laid insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

From above, be sure to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and proceed to its device after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It must be well tamped, pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam plastic chips to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be kneaded not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished frozen rough screed, you need to spread waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take a roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

A heater is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or high-density extruded polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the owner of the house and depending on climatic conditions the region where the house was built.
A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured, into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there were no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to the construction beacon level.

If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay linoleum laminate or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents the organization of the "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated in laying floors with a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in last years it is being used more and more.

The main thing in its laying is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of work, bulk floors will last a long time.

Loose mix leveling

In order for the floors to keep their shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads are installed from the boards.
On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but must be moved very carefully over the surface. Evenness of laying of sheets during all work is controlled by means of level.
On the gypsum fiber the sheets have folds, with the help of which they are interconnected when laying them on a dry screed.
Sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for floor gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer, so that they tightly adjoin each other and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The stacked top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c with glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
Right along the line doorways it is not recommended to join sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are arranged in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor, before laying the decorative coating, is treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of work performance, such technology under any circumstances is many times greater than any other.

Despite the obvious advantages of living in your own home, not everyone will dare to exchange a comfortable apartment for it. The main reason for this choice is the fear of having to permanent care for the building, land and communications. AT high-rise buildings most of this work is done by utilities, while in the private sector, the responsibility lies entirely with the owner. And take on independent construction units are capable. If you decide to take such a responsible step, not being a professional builder, you need to take every step of this difficult task with full responsibility. In this article we will figure out how to properly arrange the floors in a private house. This is not about a decorative coating, but about choosing a floor design, its proper waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of material for the base device

Quite often, wood is used for flooring in private housing construction. This is due not only to long-term traditions, but also to practical considerations. This material has several undeniable advantages:

Durability;
Environmental friendliness;
maintainability;
Low thermal conductivity;
Relative ease of installation.

Having settled on this option, it is important to choose the right wood. There are several criteria that the source material must meet in order for the floor to be strong, durable and warm:

First of all, you need to pay attention to the type of wood. It is best to arrange wooden floors in a private house made of oak or ash - such a floor will be the most durable. However, the cost of such material is quite high and not everyone can afford it. Coniferous tree species – larch, pine, spruce, cedar and fir – also performed well.
Boards and bars must be dry. Their humidity cannot exceed 12%. Otherwise, during operation they may lead.

Wood should not have cracks and chips, and to protect it from insects it is treated with antiseptics

Despite all the advantages of wood, many people prefer to equip the floor with concrete. Most often, this choice is due to the durability of the material. Choosing this method, it is important to make sure the quality of the concrete and strictly observe the technology of work.

Options for possible designs

First of all, you need to choose the type of construction of your floor. This choice depends on how you plan to use the building. Yes, for country house, which will be used only in summer, a single plank floor is enough, and for a full-fledged residential building where you plan to live permanently, you need to choose a well-insulated option.

Option number 1 - single plank floor

This is the easiest flooring option to perform and operate. It is suitable only for summer buildings or housing in regions with a warm climate. If the project of the house provides for the embedding of the floor beams into the walls, then the width between them, as a rule, is too large to immediately lay the boards. To ensure the necessary strength of the floor, you need to lay logs - wooden beams. If you plan to install the floor on the support pillars, you can immediately place the beams at the required distance from each other and do without additional costs for logs.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the floorboard. So, if you plan to use a grooved board 38 mm thick, the distance between the lags can be 60-70 cm. If the board is 28 mm thick, you need to lay the logs more often - at a distance of half a meter from each other

So, we lay the logs on the load-bearing beams and set them in level with the help of wooden spacers and wedges. After making sure that all the bars are on the same level, we fasten them to the beams with nails, and then we nail the boards to them.

Option number 2 - double plank floor

This version of the floor device will require much more cost and effort, but it can greatly reduce heat loss. Draft is recommended to be made from coniferous wood. In order to save money, you can use an unedged board or slab here.

As a rule, between the rough and finish floor I lay a layer of heat insulating material. For these purposes, expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust or straw is used. Of course, modern materials can also be used - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. On top of the insulating material, a finishing floor is laid from a grooved board.

Option number 3 - concrete floor

The device of a concrete floor in a private house is divided into several stages:

First you need to make markup. The easiest way is to use a laser level for these purposes. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are made on the walls. This will be the level of the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, nails are driven into the walls according to the marking and thin ropes are pulled.
Now let's start organizing gravel backfilling. This layer will serve as thermal insulation for your floor. We level the soil and clean it of debris. Then we drive in pegs, each of which should be 10 cm below the level of the future concrete screed. We start dumping from the wall of the opposite door. When the entire area is covered, we level and compact the gravel flush with the pegs and remove the latter.
Then it is necessary to pour a layer of sand, compact it and smooth the surface.
Proper waterproofing of the floor is of great importance; in a private house, the concrete floor is most often protected from moisture with a polyethylene whip, at least 250 microns thick.
Now you can start filling. First, according to the level, we will install beacons from wooden slats at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. It is necessary to do this so that the top edge of the rail touches the stretched rope. After that, the markings from the ropes can be removed.
We fill the space between the two slats with concrete, starting from the far wall. Then we level it with the rule and remove the excess.

Important! For high-quality waterproofing, polyethylene should go 10-15 cm onto the walls, that is, above the level of the concrete screed. In addition, if the width of the polyethylene sheet is less than the width of the room, and you are using several strips, carefully connect them together with construction tape.

Pouring concrete floor on expanded clay. The rule for leveling can be any flat rail, a little longer than the distance between the guides

When the concrete "grabs", it is necessary to remove the slats, and fill the voids with mortar and level with a "grater" for plaster. Now we cover the floor with polyethylene and leave for 3-4 weeks. It is advisable to remove the film every few days and moisten the concrete. This will allow the material to gain maximum strength.

The subtleties of the device "warm floor"

Do not forget about such a novelty as underfloor heating, because in a private house the installation of such a heating system is most justified. This is especially true when the room is heated not by radiators, but by means of coolant pipes located under the floor surface. It should be noted that heating in a building with a wooden floor is very problematic and not very efficient. This is due to the low thermal conductivity of wood. But it allows you to successfully use it.

If you still intend to equip a warm floor in a wooden house, use an electric or infrared system

Whatever flooring option you choose for your home, remember that it is important to follow the technology exactly and not save on materials, even if they will not be visible after finishing work. With poor-quality work on the installation of the subfloor or its thermal and waterproofing, even the most expensive decorative coating will soon become unusable.

In projects country houses and cottages very often architects design monolithic floors on the ground. This floor construction is one of the most practical, reliable and economical of all. possible solutions zero-level ceilings in a country house. If in in general terms describe what kind of design it is, then the next puff cake of the floor on the ground is obtained. At the base, dense soil cleared of natural grass cover, then a bulk compacted layer of sand, a waterproofing film (membrane), then a rough screed reinforced with metal mesh, a layer of insulation, again a waterproofing film, and finally, finishing finishing cement-sand screed. This is general description the entire structure of the floor on the ground. But depending on the design and engineering solutions in the house, they can have several options, both in terms of the thickness of the floor pie and in its composition.

For example, if a house project has warm floors with a liquid coolant (water or antifreeze), then most often it is arranged on the ground and compacted sand bedding. rough concrete screed 80-100 mm thick, then insulation in the form of foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam 50-100 mm thick, then cement-sand screed 50-70 mm thick. A floor pie on the ground without a "warm floor" (TP) system device is practically no different from a design with a TP, but has a thinner layer of a finishing screed of 40-50 mm.
Write and say: In many construction forums, there are lively discussions on the topic so it is necessary to arrange a rough screed for the installation of floors on the ground, to lay insulation. Arguments are approximately the following nature of statements. Like, tamp the sand bed well and with high quality and there will be no drawdown, so arranging a rough screed, especially a concrete one, is a waste of money. The same arguments are given in the question of the need for laying insulation under the screed. They write that the earth is a good heat accumulator and the heat from the house will accumulate in the underground space, and then warm it.
Both the first and even more so the second arguments are highly controversial. In fact, in order to tightly and efficiently compact a sandy or sandy-gravel layer under a screed, it is necessary to use a mechanical vibrotamper. But at the same time, no one can guarantee that as a result of periodic settlement of heaving soils at the base, uneven subsidence of a compacted layer of sand or ASG will not occur. In this case, there is a danger formation of cracks in the sand-cement screed laid without an underlying concrete layer. Regarding the heat-accumulating properties of the earth under the floor, in this case the ordinary laws of thermodynamics work. results thermotechnical calculations show that at an outside temperature of 24 degrees C. the soil under the heated room warms up to no more than +8 degrees C, and inside the living quarters of the house it is recommended to keep comfortable temperature at + 18-24 gr.S.
Therefore, if we do not lay a heat-insulating barrier at the border of contact between the underground space and the heated room, part of the heat will be spent on heating the soil, and this is an endless process. With the same success, you can try to warm the sky over the spot of building a house. It is precisely such a barrier that is a layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, expanded clay, etc.

Another topic of discussion on monolithic floors on the ground is the need to reinforce a rough concrete or cement-sand screed, which in construction terminology is defined by the term " underlying layer". In order not to delve deeply into this topic, we will quote excerpts from SP 29.13330.2011 Floors. (SNiP 2.03.13-88. Floors on the ground (clause 9):
"..9.1. Non-rigid sub-bases (from asphalt concrete; stone materials selected composition, slag materials, from crushed stone and gravel materials, including those treated with organic binders; soils and local materials treated with inorganic or organic binders) can be used provided that they are mechanically compacted.
9.2. The rigid underlying layer (concrete, reinforced concrete, reinforced concrete, steel fiber reinforced concrete (SFRC) and steel fiber reinforced concrete (SFRC)) must be made of concrete of a class not lower than B22.5.
If, according to the calculation, the tensile stress in the underlying layer of concrete of class B22.5 is lower than the calculated one, it is allowed to use concrete of a class of at least B7.5 with the execution of a leveling screed before applying the floor covering, at least B 12.5 - when applying all types of coatings, except for polymeric poured mastic directly on the concrete base, and not lower than B15 - when applying polymeric poured mastic directly on the concrete base.
9.4. The thickness of the underlying layer is set by calculating the strength from the acting loads and must be at least, mm:
- sandy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
- slag, gravel and crushed stone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
- concrete in residential and public buildings . . . . . . . . . . . 80
- concrete in industrial premises. . . . . . . . . . . 100
9.5. When using a concrete underlayment as a coating or a base under a coating without a leveling screed, its thickness should be increased by 20 - 30 mm compared to the calculated one.
9.8. When using a rigid underlying layer to prevent deformation of the floor in case of possible settlement of the building, its cut-off from columns and walls through gaskets made of rolled waterproofing materials should be provided.
9.9. In rigid underlying layers, temperature-shrinkage joints should be provided, located in mutually perpendicular directions. The dimensions of the areas limited by the axes of the expansion joints should be set depending on the temperature and humidity conditions of floor operation, taking into account the production technology construction works and adopted design solutions.
The distance between expansion joints must not exceed 30 times the thickness of the underlying slab, and the depth of the expansion joint must be at least 40 mm and at least 1/3 of the thickness of the underlying layer. The increase in the distance between the expansion joints should be justified by the calculation for temperature effects, taking into account the design features of the underlying layer.
The maximum ratio of the length of the sections limited by the axes of the expansion joints to their width should not exceed 1.5.
After completion of the shrinkage process, the expansion joints must be sealed with a putty composition based on Portland cement grade not lower than M400.
9.12. Expansion joints of the building must be repeated in the concrete underlying layer and performed throughout its entire thickness ... "

As you can see, there are no direct instructions for reinforcing the underlying layer in the joint venture. But, in the list of rigid bases, as an underlying layer, we see both non-reinforced (concrete) and reinforced (reinforced concrete, reinforced concrete) materials.
Decisions in this regard are made on the basis of calculations by the designer of design organizations and bureaus. But, as a rule, in project documentation country houses, reinforcement of the rough screed is provided with reinforcement of the M8 periodic profile with a step of 200 mm. and a metal mesh 3-4 mm thick (in cards or rolls) with a cell of 100x100 mm. It is necessary to raise and fix the reinforcement and mesh from the bottom of the screed by 25-35 mm. to create a protective concrete layer. Such a screed is made with a thickness of 80 mm. from a concrete mixture in which a crushed stone fraction of 5-10 mm is used. (fine) and the sand is only river. Below is a drawing of a typical design cake of a monolithic floor on the ground, typical for most house projects:

And they do this: According to the practice of construction work, developers very often, in order to save money, do not reinforce the rough screed (underlying layer) with reinforcement. But this is already the decision of the construction customer to trust the calculation in the design documentation or follow the advice of the master builders.
The next question that interests a private developer when constructing a rough screed is when and where to apply waterproofing in the thickness of the layer cake of the floor on the ground.
The first waterproofing layer is laid immediately over the compacted sand or PG layer. And its task is not only to cut off capillary moisture, but also to prevent water leakage from the draft (underlying) concrete screed. Thus, they try, among other things, to maintain the strength and grade of the poured concrete layer. The second layer of waterproofing for the same purposes is laid out under a layer of finishing screed. As waterproofing materials, both ordinary high-strength polyethylene films and special membranes are used. The first option is cheaper, the second is more expensive.
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the issue of the thickness of the heat-insulating layer in the floors on the ground. In the design documentation of both foreign and Russian architects, it is recommended to arrange thermal insulation layer from foam boards or EPS (extrusion) 50-100 mm thick. In each project, these values are derived on the basis of thermal calculations for enclosing structures.
Summarizing the above, we can draw conclusions and give the following recommendations for the installation of monolithic floors on the ground:
1. Qualitatively and correctly compact the sand or SG layer using a mechanical vibrating plate.
2. Install waterproofing barriers in the form polyethylene films or special membranes.
3. Fill or arrange a draft (underlying) layer according to the drawings of the structural section (CD) of the house project.
4. Lay a heat-insulating layer, the thickness of which is determined thermotechnical calculation in the project documentation for the house (section KR).
5. In a rigid underlying screed (concrete, cement-sand mixture, etc.), it is imperative to provide
6. hard underlying layer (rough screed) from walls, partitions, columns and technological outlets (sewerage, water supply) in the premises of the building where floors are laid on the ground.

In this part of the material on the installation of a monolithic floor on the ground, we did not consider in detail how to properly arrange a finishing screed. The device of the final screed should be approached especially carefully. To date, the main methods of laying a finishing screed are the traditional method of pouring a cement-sand mortar (wet screed) and the method of filling a moistened cement-sand mixture (semi-dry screed). But these are the topics of a separate article.

Ground floors #8212 General view

Ground floor plans

In houses without a basement, flooring #8212 is a popular solution for ground floor rooms.. both residential and household. Simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

Fig.1. Monolithic overlap

on the ground (suspended floor)

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and should be calculated for normative load floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This floor is often referred to as #171 suspended floor on ground #187 .

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or with a bulk soil height of more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option #8212 is the floor on the foundation #8212 slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Floor installation in a private house

The floor is an integral part of any room, whether private house(apartment) or public building.

Undoubtedly, one of the main parts that determine the entire interior of the room as a whole and ensure comfortable living and durability of the building.

This part of the premises is quite expensive (up to 30% of the total costs) and laborious in terms of arrangement, it is top layer ceiling that divides the building into zones.

For a one-story private house, such a division is as follows: basement, residential part, attic.

The base is the most wearing part, since the loads on it are the most constant.

Therefore, it lends itself to repair most often, although high-quality laying of the base and the use of high-quality materials make it possible to forget about repairs for a long time.

The material for the base should be selected taking into account the purposes of operation, the microclimate in the room, and its choice should be taken seriously: for example, you can’t lay parquet in a toilet or bathroom, and it’s better not to use laminate flooring in the kitchen or in the hallway.

Types of bases for a private house

In a private house, they can be of two types:

Wooden. The base is logs (beams) laid with a waterproofing litter (if we are talking about the foundation in the basement or living quarters in a house without a basement) or without it (if we are talking about a field between living rooms, living quarters and a basement or attic). Such bases are warm and do not require significant labor costs for installation.
Concrete. The basis for concrete bases is a prepared base in the form of a sand cushion. Compared to a wooden base, concrete floors involve wet work in several stages, which makes their production and installation voluminous and rather long.

Wooden floors can be mounted in the form of:

simple single plank base
double plank base (warmer).

Features of installing a plank wooden floor

A single plank base is mounted in compliance with the following recommendations:

The boards are laid on logs laid on the beams or on the support beams themselves (if the beams are embedded in the walls, then laying the logs on them is mandatory requirement).
If the support pillars serve as the basis for laying, then the beams are initially laid in compliance with established requirements: with a distance between supports of 80 cm, the beams must be laid 1x1 m, with a distance of 1 meter or more - 1.2x1.2 m ..
If there are no complaints about the beam system, then you can lay the floor on the beams themselves. If, nevertheless, the system of beams does not completely suit you, then it is better to additionally lay a grid of logs, leveling and securing with nails.
The logs used for laying the base can have a section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm.

Mounting a plank base is quite simple by attaching the boards you use with long self-tapping screws or nails to the logs or support bars.

If the laid plank base is planned to be finished, then we scrape it and varnish it (preferably in two layers).

If the plank base is used as a draft, then we lay the coating of your choice on it (it is recommended to use linoleum).

Laying a single plank base will not bring heat into your home, but will only reduce your costs.

Therefore, it is better to lay a double plank floor, which includes a rough base of unedged board and a finished floor of tongue and groove board.

For laying the rough base, we use boards pre-treated with an antiseptic (board thickness up to 45 mm), which are tightly laid on cranial bars stuffed on beams.

Next, we cover the rough base with a heat-insulating layer of at least 30 mm (use sawdust and clay or expanded clay) and lay the final base (use only coniferous boards for it), nailing it.

If you plan to lay an additional coating on a finished base, then it must be scraped off, after deepening the nail heads with a metal finisher and a hammer.

After that, you can lay any coating.

In order to ensure ventilation, it is necessary to make holes in the corners of the room (no more than 60 mm in diameter).

We suggest you watch a useful video on how the floors are arranged in private homes.

As mentioned earlier, a wooden base in a basement or living space without a basement is mounted on logs laid on a waterproofing pad.

The material for such a pillow can be sandstone, gravel or simple soil.

In this case, the logs are not laid on the pillow itself, but on brick columns (at least 2 bricks high), which are located over the entire floor area so that the step between the bars laid on them is 40-70 cm.

If the wooden base is laid on the floors, for example, between the basement or attic and the living quarters, then no waterproofing is needed in this case.

Logs are fixed through the way with the help of anchors or self-tapping screws.

When laying a wooden floor, it should be borne in mind that the wood used must first be impregnated to prevent it from being affected by various rodents, microorganisms and insects.

Before laying the concrete base, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on the previously compacted sand cushion, and then #8212 a heat-insulating layer.

Many people ask themselves the question: how to cut a laminate? Here it is shown what and how you can cut it without much effort. Try!

In this article, you will learn how to lay a cork underlayment under a laminate. Good luck with your repair!

Only with such preliminary preparation you can start laying the concrete base.

The layer of laid concrete must be at least 5 cm and must correspond in level to the level of the foundation of the house at its highest point.

A concrete slab can still serve as the basis for pouring a concrete screed.

If the slab is flat, then you can safely save on waterproofing - you don’t need to lay it, and, having laid only thermal insulation, cover it with a fine cement-sand screed.

This will be enough.

Finished flooring should be laid on the screed only after it has dried and bonded.

By the way, if the flooring is laminate, then it is necessary to first lay the concrete with a special bedding, and if parquet, then plywood must be laid under it.

If you want to lay tiles, then you don’t need anything other than tile adhesive.

How to insulate the floor in a private house?

It is better to start warming floors in a private house from the basement. It is necessary to isolate the walls from the cold soil from the outside with external thermal insulation. Indeed, according to statistics, the greatest heat loss occurs due to freezing of the soil to a great depth.

Natural beauty wooden house

The plinth is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam. This material has low thermal conductivity and good water resistance. It is best to insulate the walls from the outside along the entire height, up to the base of the foundation. The calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator is carried out taking into account the type of soil, the depth of soil freezing and the characteristics of the site. After installation, the underground part of the walls is again covered with earth. and the basement of the basement walls can be decorated with any decorative coating, thus the heat insulator will be hidden.

What to do with the floor above the basement?

Before performing work, you need to make sure that the underground space is dry. For natural air ventilation air vent leading to the basement. The soil must be carefully compacted and covered with sand by 20 cm.

Filling the underground space with insulation

Instructions for action:

Better fit

OSB boards

When. if it is not planned to disassemble the floor, then it is possible to insulate the basement from the basement.

wooden blocks

How to insulate the floor if the house is on the ground?

The floor on the ground is a concrete or reinforced concrete slab located at the base of the house. It can be connected to the walls with a screed. or not connected.

Laying the floor on the ground will save your time and effort, but there are some limitations. For example, slabs should not be placed on loose or easily subsiding soils. In addition, laying can not be done where they pass nearby ground water.

Floor insulation with mineral wool

Concrete does not provide protection from cold air. Moreover, the concrete slabs themselves are cold. It is for this reason that the floor, if it is located on the ground, is always insulated.

concrete slab

How thick should the insulation layer be? It all depends on the thickness of the ceiling - if the room is high, then the thermal insulation can be laid in several layers. And in the case of a low ceiling, the maximum that you can afford is one layer of heat insulator.

Floor insulation

Floor insulation between floors is necessary only in cases where there should be different temperature. And the choice of material for insulation depends on the method of installing the floor - on logs or slabs. The attic also needs to be insulated, if it is used.

Floor insulation in a country house

We lay a vapor barrier on the plates between the lags. The panels must be laid so that they overlap each other by 10 cm or more. It is necessary to install ceilings above the vapor barrier layer, on slabs or between lags. The heat insulator must be laid close, without gaps and cracks. If several layers are installed - lay the plates with overlapping seams.

We put waterproofing on the heat insulator and install the floor. In the case of a wooden floor and a log, we make an air cushion, and in the case of installation on slabs, without it.

If a attic space- non-residential, used for storage, has ventilation (natural), then you need to put a structure over the insulation to protect it from the wind.

The scheme of floor insulation in a wooden house

Beams from interfloor ceilings are also a natural support for the ceiling and lags for the floor of the room above the first. How to carry out thermal insulation between them and how to insulate them?

For thermal insulation, do the following:

We install a heat insulator between the beams from the side of the upper floor. We do this in several layers. From above we cover everything with a waterproofing layer. We fill the logs on the beams and arrange the floor here (first rough, then finish). We go down to the lower floor and deal with vapor barrier (install on a wooden floor). The vapor barrier must be closed with drywall or hemmed boards.

Floor insulation with foam

How can I insulate the floor in a private house?

There are several options:

Styrofoam ordinary. You need to choose the brand of plates depending on the load on the floors. Plates PSB-S-35 will help to insulate the living space. The edges of the plates can be either milled or ordinary. In order to overlap the plates to each other, use expanded polystyrene with milled edges. This will help to avoid gaps and gaps between the plates, which can nullify the effectiveness of any insulation.

There are two styling options - one thick layer or two thin ones.

Expanded clay insulation

Expanded polystyrene extruded. The only but important difference is the high density and well-closed cells. This structure allows it to withstand huge loads. Therefore, it is suitable for warming not only a residential building, but also a garage. However, something else emerges from the high density of the plates. These slabs can be laid directly on a layer of gravel or expanded clay, and there is no need to make a concrete base. What allows you to use extruded polystyrene foam on gravel? This is a low water absorption coefficient. as well as thermal conductivity. The thickness of the thermal insulation in this case can be equal to 8 - 9 cm.

Polyurethane foam. Chips and rigid slabs of polyurethane foam material can be used to insulate the floor on the ground. However, they must be laid on a waterproofing pad - the water absorption coefficient of the plates is generally 0.7 - 2.9 percent.

Modern materials coated on both sides with aluminum or fiberglass. This reduces vapor permeability and increases thermal insulation. The edges of the plates can be found both straight and milled. They are used to lay the insulation overlapping each other.

Mineral wool. Fibrous, soft wool is often used for flooring above basements or for insulation between floors in a house. Under and above the wool there are layers that need to be insulated with vapor and waterproofing.

Floor insulation on logs

Expanded clay. This light and porous material is made from burnt clay. Expanded clay performs a number of functions - levels the floor, protects against moisture and heat loss. If you get a thick layer of expanded clay - you can not think about waterproofing. Expanded clay is used to insulate the floor on the ground. To simplify subsequent work, pour the compacted layer of your expanded clay with a sand-cement mixture. Such liquid fillings can be performed on each layer of expanded clay.

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