What voltage should be in the bath. Wiring in the bath: electrical appliances, cable selection, installation rules

Wiring in a room with high humidity requires a special approach. If there are no skills and knowledge in the field of electric power industry, then it is better for professionals to do the work. Even a simple scheme must be assembled from special materials and according to all the rules. It's not scary that the system can close in a wet bath, but an improperly executed electrical system can kill a wet person. How to make wiring in the bath according to all the rules and what mistakes are made, we will talk in this article.

Wiring in the bath made by professionals.

It is necessary to install the wiring in the bath in accordance with the requirements of the PUE (rules for electrical installations). Rules for wet and dangerous buildings have their own regulations. According to the documentation, fittings can only be placed in the dressing room, the steam room and the washing department are not intended for such nodes. All lamps must be under protective covers, and not simple ones, but with tight connections.

It is better if the wiring in the bath is done by professionals, but if you have knowledge in this area, you can do everything yourself.

Wiring in the bath can be done according to a simple scheme. Modern designs are multifunctional, so the power supply circuit is mounted complex. In such a bath can be located: lamps, an electric oven, a moisture meter and a temperature sensor, infrared or awning warm floors, sockets for a TV, a hairdryer, a refrigerator. In addition to everything listed in modern designs, there can be a pool with lighting, a pumping station, and a heat gun.

Why is incorrect wiring dangerous?

Steam is dangerous in the bath, as it consists of particles of water, which is an excellent electrical conductor. Therefore, if you install a socket or switch in places where steam is accessible, condensate will settle on the elements and a fire or short circuit may occur. Before installing the wiring, specialists will make the necessary calculations and draw up a diagram that cannot be performed without knowledge. Services are not cheap, so in most cases they perform the system on their own. But this must be done in accordance with all rules and regulations.

Installation of sockets and switches in the bath is easier to do with a special nozzle on the drill.

Before installation, it is necessary to draw a diagram where all nodes (sockets, switches, branching boxes) will be drawn. At the same time, it is worth considering in advance what and where will be connected. Only after that the total power of all sources is calculated and it is determined which cable, section and size is needed.

Rules and regulations for the placement of the electrical system in baths

For a bath, wiring is carried out in a separate line from the main switchboard. This is done in order to protect the owners and create a separate ground loop. Wiring should not be conspicuous and does not fit in the corners, opposite the doorways. To the centers of heating: stoves, pipes, generators is located no closer than 1.5 m.

Electrical wiring in the bath can be mounted in two ways:

Hidden: used in brick or block baths, unacceptable in wooden ones. It is carried out in special slotted channels with additional asbestos insulation.
Open: wiring is allowed directly along the wall, used in wooden structures.

Wiring is carried out according to several basic rules:

Power is passed through an AB or a residual current device (RCD), and light is passed into the steam room or into the washing room through a step-down transformer.
For wiring, it is better to use a copper non-burning cable of the VVGngLS 3x2.5 type.
All the main elements: electrical panel, current distribution box, central switch are mounted only in the dressing room.
For a wooden bath, they throw the wiring from the room into the neighboring one through a drilled hole right in the wall. A ½ inch metal tube is inserted into it for safety. In no case should you drill a hole at the joints and seams, only in the middle of the link.
It is necessary to isolate the wiring using a special corrugation made of plastic or metal. It will not allow the system to ignite, and if damaged, the rock will simply melt. Under all sockets and switches, a metal or asbestos plate is also mounted.
Wiring in wooden structures cannot be hidden in transitional ceilings and under the floor, the entire system must be open. For greater security, asbestos material can be attached to the bottom of the wall.
It is necessary to connect the wires to each other using terminals; it is unacceptable to twist the wiring.

Also, do not use vinyl or rubberized wiring in the bath. It is optimal to use corrugated H07RN-F, VVGng-LS 3x1.5.

How to run the cable to the bath

Wiring put into the bathhouse not through a through hole in the log is considered incorrect.

If the bath is located in close proximity to the main house, then there will be no problem. It will be more difficult to throw the wire on a separate bath. In such cases, it is necessary to install the power wire to the bath from the main electrical panel.

According to the installation method, there are two ways to bring the electric wire to the bath: ground and air. Air conduction is more accessible, since for work you just need to put additional supports in the form of pillars. For the line, a SIP cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is taken. It can be tensioned without additional construction of cables, and the service life is more than 20 years.

SIP is thrown over the poles to the bathhouse and injected inside through a special hole with a metal pipe or asbestos insulator.

The ground method of pulling the electric wire to the bath is more complicated and requires material and physical costs. But on the other hand, the line will not be visible and the landscape will not have to be spoiled by pillars. For installation, they take a copper durable cable VBbShv 3x2.5, armored. It is acceptable to use not armored, but then it will be more vulnerable and it is hidden in a special protective metal pipe. The cable is buried at least 700 mm deep, and the laying points are marked, for example, with bricks or decorative stone. This is necessary to simplify the search for possible damage or replacement.

When the wire is connected, it is necessary to correctly install the shield.

How to properly mount the shield

The first thing to do is to choose the right place for the electrical panel. The main rules to be followed are:

The electrical panel is placed in a dry and ventilated place. The accumulation of condensate on the internal parts of the structure is unacceptable.
Access to the electrical panel must always be available.
The place should not be darkened, it is better if natural light enters the shield.
The top of the box should be at least 150-180 cm from the floor.
If the wiring is single-phase, then a three-core cable will do.

What to consider when drawing up an electrical system diagram

The wiring in the bath must be in special insulation.

When drawing up a wiring diagram for a bath, the location of electrical appliances and other components is taken into account. They can only be installed in dry rooms. This is due to fire safety rules and the fact that less corrosion will form on the parts. If the device is plastic, then its mechanism still has metal parts.

There are devices on which protection is installed by manufacturers, so they can be safely placed in the washing room. These include modern showers, bathtubs with massage systems, spa equipment and more. other.

Light fixtures for the steam room can only be used on a metal base with a protective glass structure. Lamps are mounted on the walls, stepping back from the ceiling by 20 cm.

The transformer conducting the electrical system to the bath does not exceed 220 volts. In the steam room, the washing compartment can be distributed 12 volts, which are carried through the wall. This is somewhat different from the PUE standards, which say that 42 volts is permissible in dangerous places in the structure. But this is taking into account a light bulb of 36 volts, and in most modern designs these are not used.

If a washing machine or dishwasher is placed in the bath, then a separate socket with grounding should be brought under them. They can only be installed in a dry place. If a tank is used for heating hot water, then a separate wire is laid that goes separately from the general system.

Protective automatic RCD

A grounding system loop is mounted along the perimeter of the structure. The system is equipped with an RCD emergency shutdown machine, or a differential system. If the installation of automation is impossible for any reason, then T220/12 is mounted. All protective devices must be hidden in a waterproof box.

Electric heater in the power supply system

Sensors for electric heaters in saunas can only be used at low voltage. They are mounted on the surface of the wall, which is located farthest from the heater. Choose a suitable place and measure 1 m from the floor to proceed with the installation. It is forbidden to mount the control panel for sensors in the steam room.

The electric heater is connected separately from the main system, without sockets. To do this, a separate cable is thrown from the shield, which is connected to the heat generator and a separate ground is made.

Conduct wiring to the electric heater and light bulbs in the steam room should be no closer than 0.8 m from the chimney and stove. At the same time, it should not bend or twist anywhere, only one-piece in a special corrugation.

Bath lamps

Each electrical unit should be located on the wall, in no case should they be hidden inside the tree.

You should not use simple paws for washing and steam room. Luminescence is taken only with protection in IP44 degree. Among the safest, it is worth highlighting 12 volt halogen lamps.

It is better to use wiring for a steam room from a heat-resistant material, for example, the SILFLEX Sif brand, single-core with special silicone insulation.

In some modern schemes, the light in the steam room is made from below, so there will be less heating. The lighting looks attractive, as it is carried out by spotlights, for example, built into the lower step of the canopy.

Inside the canopy structure, the wiring is additionally insulated in metal pipes.

You need to check the wiring every 2-3 years, preferably more often. The shelf life of the wiring should also be taken into account: copper - up to 20 years, aluminum up to 15 years. And since the humidity and elevated temperatures in the baths affect the wiring aggressively, you can safely divide the numbers by 2 and change the wiring completely after the expiration date.

Even by hiring a professional, you should not let things take their course, you need to control the entire process from and to. Only in this way the wiring in the bath will be safe and will last the prescribed period.

Each owner of a private house considers a bath a necessary attribute on his site. Today, a comfortably equipped bathhouse can become not just a room for personal hygiene, but also a place for real relaxation. In the article we will consider in detail how to make electrical wiring in the bath with your own hands.

Bath lighting device

When equipping the bath room with various devices and auxiliary devices, special attention should be paid to the installation of electrical wiring. In this case, the requirements for the quality of the material used are higher, since the wiring is most often exposed to extreme conditions - such as high temperature, sudden temperature changes in two adjacent rooms, high humidity. In addition, a bath, especially a wooden one, is an object that represents an increased fire hazard.

The simplest wiring diagram in the bath is as follows:

The cable is brought into the bath to a common machine, next to which an RCD is provided - a protective shutdown device, then a water heater (boiler) and lamps are connected - one or two for each room: a locker room (dressing room), a washing room and a steam room (sauna)

However, in order to save money, having the appropriate experience and knowledge, this operation can be carried out independently. One of the main conditions for the installation of electrical wiring in the bath is the use of high quality materials, a preliminary accurate calculation of the footage and parameters of the equipment used for installation, as well as the obligatory observance of safety precautions during work.

Training

So, if you decide to install the wiring in the bath yourself, do it right:

It is forbidden to conduct wiring in front of the entrance doors, at the corner joints of the premises, and also to connect more than two lamps to one switch.
It is unacceptable to twist and bend the wiring.
The junction boxes in which the cable is laid must be freely accessible and visible - in case you have to troubleshoot the electrics.
It is advisable, before starting work on laying wires, to draw with a pencil on the wall their location, as well as the location of switches, sockets and lamps.
Copy the diagram onto paper and save it - perhaps it will come in handy more than once.

Mounting methods

There are two main options - open and hidden. The first method is less time-consuming and does not require large financial costs, it is more maintainable. The only drawback of this method is the not entirely aesthetic appearance of the wiring, which, however, can be improved with some decorative elements, or simply lay the cable in boxes or trays.

The hidden wiring method is more time consuming, and financially it will require more costs. Although this is offset by a more aesthetic appearance of the walls.

Currently, retail chains offer electrical plinth, the use of which greatly facilitates the installation of electrical wiring in the premises. The product of the required length is attached to the floor or ceiling, inside it a wire is pulled through a special channel, a hole is drilled in the right place, through which the conductor of the required length is output.

When purchasing electrical wires, you should first find out the total electrical power of the equipment that is planned to be powered in the bathhouse. Knowing this value, you can determine the minimum allowable cross-section of the wire used.

For example, for 2 kW of power, it is enough to use a wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2. Other values by which you can navigate are shown in the photo below (see table):

Advice. When purchasing this or that wire for installation, you should remember the need to add 20% to the calculated power (for more reliable operation).

For electrical wiring in the bath, it is desirable to use wires with a copper component that have double rubber insulation. When installing lighting, the wire of the VVGng-LS 3x1.5 brand is most often used, since its insulation is slightly susceptible to burning, and in case of a possible fire, it practically does not smoke the room. The wiring is usually closed with corrugated tubes made of PVC material. This design confidently withstands temperatures up to 180 degrees.

Important! The use of metal pipes or any other metal products for open installation is not allowed!

Required Tools

In order for the installation of electrical wiring to take place without delay, experienced craftsmen advise having the following tools at hand:

A stepladder with a hammer and a construction spatula.
Perforator, screwdriver set, screwdriver, grinder.
Pliers with wire cutters, drills of different sizes, tape measure, construction knife, marker.
Extension, tool for crimping cable lugs and stripping.
Tools for measuring work: laser level, indicator screwdriver, multimeter.

Step-by-step instructions: do-it-yourself electrical wiring

Conducting wiring in the bath

There are two options for laying the cable - underground and overhead. The most simple and affordable is the air route. As a rule, in this case, a SIP-type cable is used, which has increased resistance to the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.

At a considerable distance from the bathhouse from the main power line, it is necessary to fix the electrical wires on additional stable supports (see the laying diagram and the entry point below).

When installing the wire on the wall of the bath, the following rules should be followed: the fastening of the electrical wire must be at a distance of at least 200 mm from the peak of the roof of the building and at least 2750 mm from the ground. The cable is introduced into the room through a pipe in the wall. The cavity of the insulating pipe is filled with molten bitumen.

Underground cable laying is more time-consuming and requires more financial costs, however, it gives the adjacent area a more aesthetic appearance due to the absence of extra wires.

For underground installation, either armored cable VB6Shv 3x2.5 with copper conductors or unarmored VVG3x2.5 is used, which must be protected with pipes of the appropriate diameter.

Advice. It is necessary to mark in some way the place of laying the cable in order to avoid its damage during subsequent earthworks in front of the territory of the bath.

Installing the shield in the bath

The main purpose of the shield is to distribute power to energy consumers in the bathhouse. A prerequisite for installing the shield is a dry, well-ventilated place with sufficient free access, with the least possible temperature fluctuations. As practice shows, the most suitable place is a dressing room or a rest room.

The shield is installed at such a height that its top cover is at a distance of 1800 mm from the floor. The wiring in the shield is single-phase, the cable is three-core (for grounding installation).

Wiring from the shield

When wiring, remember:

From the shield, the wires are bred to consumers only with a solid cable.
Switches and sockets are mounted in a vertical position only in dry rooms.
It is strictly not allowed to install switches and sockets in steam rooms, showers and washing rooms.
The wires are connected by welding or soldering.
All appliances used in the bath must be grounded.

In addition, before turning on the shield for the first time, you must make sure that there are no errors in connecting all devices.

Installation of fixtures

Any appliance used in the bathhouse must be made of heat-resistant and heat-resistant material that can withstand large temperature changes well. Therefore, it is undesirable to use plastic shades in lighting devices; it is also necessary to pay attention to the moisture resistance of the material when choosing lighting devices.

To illuminate the room, it is enough to select lamps with a power of 75 watts. The light, if possible, should be diffused - this has a more favorable effect on perception. Premises with a high level of humidity can be illuminated with lamps with a supply voltage of 12 V.

Advice. To illuminate the washing rooms, experts recommend additionally “hanging” lamps on step-down transformers.

It is advisable to place lighting devices on the walls, and not on the ceiling, where the air temperature is slightly higher. It is unacceptable to use fluorescent lamps for lighting the interior of the bathhouse.

Important! Lamps placed in the steam room and washing rooms must have additional protection with heat-resistant moisture-proof shades.

Install lamps in a place protected from direct fire

If there is a swimming pool at the bath, then the lighting of the room must be brighter, providing a kind of comfort. Since the temperature at the pool is not as high as in the steam room, fluorescent, LED lamps, lights of various shapes and colors are installed.

In this case, of course, it is necessary to take all possible measures for their safe use. If desired, lighting is also installed in the water, however, only special lamps with increased tightness, which will operate at reduced voltage, should be used here.

Installation of sockets

At this stage, remember:

Sockets are placed in the bath only in rest rooms or in dressing rooms.
It is strictly forbidden to arrange sockets in rooms with high humidity.
The height of the outlets should not be higher than 1 m from the floor level. In this case, it is desirable to select sockets equipped with covers.
When using sockets, it is not recommended to connect more than one device to one socket.
To prevent moisture from getting inside sockets and switches, wires are brought to them from the side or from below.

Optional equipment

Recently, electric furnaces are increasingly being used for heating in baths. They are compact, easy to use and easy to connect. Electric furnaces are able to automatically maintain the set temperature, and, importantly, garbage and ash do not accumulate during operation.

The durability and normal operation of the electric furnace to a large extent depends on the correct installation of the electrical wiring. For this purpose, wires with insulation capable of withstanding temperatures up to 170 degrees are used. The wiring is additionally laid in a corrugated pipe. For safety reasons, a temperature limiter is installed that turns off the stove from the power supply when the temperature in the steam room reaches above 140 degrees.

Video: lighting in the bath (steam room, etc.)

Despite the fact that conducting electricity in the bath with your own hands seems difficult, it will not be difficult to lay the cable. The main rule is compliance with safety regulations and proper distribution of loads on power supply from the main. Given the recommendations received, you can install switches and conduct lighting in the bath yourself.

Electrical wiring in the bath is carried out according to special rules - in accordance with the requirements of the PUE, which are specially designed for wet rooms, like a bath. The main rules are as follows: all fittings are located in the dressing room or rest room, there are no sockets in the washing room and steam room, and the shades for the lamps are placed completely sealed - special for high humidity.

A modern bath is not only a couple of lamps, but a much more functional and complex system. Which, of course, requires high-quality power supply. Those. in addition to standard lighting in the steam room today they are already equipping:

Electric heater;
Warm electric floor;
Electrical temperature and humidity meters;
Infrared heaters;
Electric kettle and hair dryer;
Mini fridge for beer;
Plasma TV;
SPA equipment;
Internal lighting in the pool;
Water heater;
Washing machine;
Pumping station;
Heat gun for drying all rooms.

What is the danger of improper wiring in the bath? The fact is that steam is an excellent conductor of electricity. Therefore, sockets can only be installed in those rooms that are well protected from moisture - only there condensate will not penetrate into the socket and its conductive part. But plug sockets for a steam room are generally taboo.

The ideal option is to initially invite an intelligent, trusted specialist who will carry out all the calculations and install all the equipment himself. If this is not possible, you can figure everything out yourself, but it is important to fully study all the nuances. And then invite a specialist at least for a control screening, for which he will not charge much. The specialist needs to be given an approximate plan for placing bath sockets, switches and lamps - and what devices will be placed where. And pre-subtract the planned total capacity of all equipment that will be - so the electrician will determine the required cross-section for cables.

So, how to conduct electrical wiring in a bath - from theory to practice.

General provisions for proper electrification

So, how to make electrical wiring in the bath? Here's how: electricity is supplied to it from the main switchboard through a separate power line - and the bath has a separate protective ground loop. Moreover, they conduct wiring in the bath in those places where it will be least noticeable - but at a distance of at least one and a half meters from batteries and pipes. And not in the corners or opposite doors and passages. And there are a few rules here:

The supply voltage must be carried out through the RCD and AB, as well as a step-down transformer for lighting the steam room and washing.
The best cable with which electrical wiring can be carried out in baths is, according to experienced bath attendants, a VVGngLS 3x2.5 brand cable. It is copper, in a special sheath that does not spread combustion.

The shield, general switch and junction boxes must be installed in the dressing room.
To run the wires through the walls in the bath, you need to drill holes right in the center of the log and insert a ½ inch steel pipe there. The wiring itself in the bath can be done in a metal, corrugated flexible and special plastic pipe. This will not light up even in the event of a fire in the wiring itself - it will only melt.

If we are talking about a wooden bath, then all wiring should be exclusively open - but preferably, not along the baseboards, but through the attic. The connection of wires needs to be made terminal - and nothing else. And in no case should they be twisted - all cables must be only solid. But it should definitely be avoided when arranging electrical wiring in the bath, so this is a rubber and vinyl sheath of wires. Corrugated wire brand H07RN-F is well suited for a bath.

Wiring diagram in the bath: the main thing is safety!

By the way, the fact that all devices and the shield should be located only in a room ideally protected from moisture is dictated not only by fire safety - in conditions of high humidity, all this quickly fails due to corrosion. And even plastic products - after all, they still have metal parts inside. But as for the modern shower cabin, which is equipped with built-in water heating, you should not worry. Due to the fact that the manufacturer initially takes care of protection, it can also be installed in the washing room.

As for the lamps, their body should be metal, and the ceiling should be made of glass. It is advisable to install them only on the walls, because. all the heat goes under the ceiling, and the temperature there is not low.

So, the transformer to which the supply voltage must be supplied must be rated for 220 volts and installed in a completely dry place. Only 12 volts can be passed through the wall to the steam room and washing room - and there cannot be any sockets there. Although officially allowed by the requirements of the PUE (for dangerous rooms, like a bathhouse) in the steam room and a voltage of 42 volts - when 36 volt light bulbs are installed.

If it is planned to have a washing machine in the bath, then it will definitely need to be installed only in a dry room - as well as making an outlet for it there. A separate wire should be made into the heating tank - this is important.

Around the bath itself, it is highly desirable to lay a ground loop, and in the shield - to install a differential machine or an RCD with a leakage of no more than 30 mA. If for some reason all this cannot be done in your steam room, then the T-220/12 must be installed in the dressing room panel.

Both the RCD and the machines should end up in a waterproof box.

If you need to install sensors to the heater, then only low-voltage ones, at a distance of 1 meter from the floor - and on the wall farthest from the heater. The control panel for them must be fixed unambiguously outside the steam room. The electric heater itself, by the way, is always installed without sockets - with a direct cable to the shield that hangs outside the steam room.

Wires in the steam room and analysis of the main mistakes

And now about the most subtle - the most complex electrical wiring in the bath, namely, in the steam room. The most important rule is that it should not be closer than 0.8 m from the chimney and the heater.

In the shower and steam room, you need to install fixtures with a degree of protection of IP44 and higher. And the safest option is 12-volt halogen bulbs. But for a steam room and a furnace, it is better to take a particularly heat-resistant wire that can withstand heating up to 180˚ - brand SILFLEX Sif S = 0.25-185 sq. mm, single-core, with silicone insulation.

For the purpose of safety, many attendants organize the lighting of the steam room from below - closer to the cool floor. This is most often a spotlight that can be placed under the shelves, making the lighting design mysterious and unusual. Moreover, the wiring itself to it must be done with a special heat-resistant wire in a metal pipe.

An important point: like any equipment, bath electrics must be audited at least once every four years - this is the guarantor of safety. And for reference: aluminum wiring has a shelf life of 15 years, copper wiring - 20, and therefore after this period it must be replaced - if we are talking about an ordinary house, and in a bath it does work in a rather aggressive environment.

Another important nuance: if you hire professional electricians, it is still advisable to understand at least some of the intricacies of electrical wiring in the bath. After all, it is known that today there are many who pretend to be specialists, and if their favorite steam room burns down, they will not be found with fire.

This is how the electrical wiring of the bath is done with your own hands - it’s difficult, but everything is real. And having figured it out, everything can be done much better and safer than hiring a team of local "electricians" with experience.

One not big, but important stage of construction simply cannot be avoided. It is necessary to conduct electricity to the bathhouse, make competent wiring inside the room in accordance with the established rules and install points: sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, according to the scheme. About this and that How is the wiring in the bath and a steam room with your own hands, you will learn from this article.

How to connect the bath to electricity from home?

The bath is built separately from the house and is connected to the shield with a separate cable, through its own machine and RCD. Most often, the power cable is laid underground, which has some advantages over creating an overhead line.

Advantage number one is that this type of gasket provides cable safety and eliminates its breakage in gusty or heavy winds.
Advantage number two is that cable invisibility does not spoil the external aesthetic appearance of the surrounding landscape. The switchboard is most often installed at the entrance to the room, from the outside, but it is also possible to install it indoors. Electrical outlets and lighting fixtures are connected to this shield.

If the plans include the installation of additional electrical equipment - an electric furnace (although who will install an electric furnace in a frame version or a log house?), A steam generator, electric heating, then not only the wiring in the bath and steam room should correspond to the total power, but also the main power cable itself.

A free-standing bath can be connected with a CIP cable or aluminum wires without insulation, which are stretched between two buildings. It is better to choose a SIP cable so as not to pull over a section of wire without insulation. The SIP system has its own fastening system to the facades and a supporting steel core, which makes it possible to stretch the cable.

If the footage from the line connection point is more than 25 meters, an intermediate pole is required. The SIP cable has aluminum wires and cannot be inserted into a wooden bath. To enter the bathhouse, a power machine or a switch is installed on the facade, after which a cable with copper wires is connected and, using a metal sleeve, is introduced into the room.

Underground electrical cable laying

This method of connecting a bath will require a significant amount of earthwork when digging a trench with a depth of 0.8 to 1.2 meters, from the connection point to the bath. The cable for underground installation can be laid directly into the ground or use a plastic sleeve from a pipe to better save the cable from damage.

For this purpose, it is better to use products with insulation made of cross-linked polyethylene of the XLPE brand, which has a guarantee of about 25 years. The cable can be connected to two shields from below, through the foundation along the inner wall with its laying in a metal pipe. This type of connection is designed to protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and comply with the requirements of the EMP.

Switchboard installation

The dimensions of the inner shield are determined by the number of circuit breakers and RCDs used that will be installed. The shield is placed at a height of 1.5 to 2 m from the floor next to the entrance to the bath to turn it on at the entrance. At the input, an RCD must be installed on all electrical wiring and an introductory machine, which should have a lower trip current than the machine in the house, which protects the outgoing line. If a 25 A machine is installed in the house, it is possible to install a 20 A machine in the bath at the input. The RCD at the input protects all the electrical wiring of the bath and is designed to protect the bath from fire and protect people from possible electric shock when it leaks.

Electrician in the bath: rules, wiring diagram

Next, we consider two main issues that arise during the installation of electricians in the bath. First, for example, consider the simplest working wiring diagram in the dressing room, with a detailed description of the whole process. Further important practical advice on the topic: do-it-yourself wiring in the bath.

The correct wiring diagram in the bath and its phased installation

If you are looking for information that will indicate where and how many sockets, switches, lamps you need to install, then this is not quite the right approach to solving the issue.

Start dancing on what devices you will use and where they will be located. Determine places for switches, lamps and start creating your wiring diagram in the bath. The functional placement of electricians is when the switch is on its own when entering the room, turning on the TV is not associated with rearranging furniture, and using an outlet does not imply taking a horizontal position. Following are the step by step steps:

Step one: Draw the wiring diagram

We start with a simple working electrical circuit for the dressing room. The minimum set of points consists of:

Switch (1 pc.);
Electric sockets (2 pcs.);
Lamp (1 piece);
Junction box (1 pc.);
Automatic switch (1 pc.).

The simplest wiring diagram for a dressing room, taking into account distances and installation locations

In the photo: Designation of the circuit breaker on the diagram

In the photo: Designation of electric lamps on the diagram

In the photo: Designation of the switch on the diagram

In the photo: Designation of sockets on the diagram

In the photo: The layout of all nodes and points

Step two: We install cable channels (cases) or corrugation (tubes) for wiring

All wires, in case of open wiring, must be protected by plastic cases or corrugated hoses. And this is really important!

Wanna bring you real example from life. In a city apartment, children played ball in the hallway. The ball hit the wall, along which the insulated wire from the lamp descended and the wire turned into a fickford cord. A white, luminous dot began to move, devouring the isolation. I turned off the lamp, but it was too late, the process had already begun. It’s good that a cobweb or a “dusty rabbit” didn’t get in the way of the light, and the light didn’t have time to hide in a wooden plinth and the process itself was controlled by adults, otherwise the fire would not have been avoided.

If you have chosen a corrugation, then all the wiring is skipped in it in advance using an internal wire. When planning and calculating the volume of material, take it with a small (5-10%) margin. If you settled on cable channels - pencil cases (and I prefer this option more), then the wire can be laid directly when connecting the wiring. When choosing canisters, be guided by the dimensions of the wiring. It is impossible to take a small volume because the wire will not fit, and more than necessary, it simply does not make sense.

In the photo: cable channels of various sizes for wiring

In the photo: wiring laid to the switch in the cable channel

Step three: We lay the wires in the cable channels

Starting the installation of wiring in the bath, you must of course be provided with the appropriate wires and cables. But how to choose a wire from the right material with the right cross section? Having a professional project in hand, there will be no questions, but how to solve it if the circuit and the wiring itself are made independently?

A few simple rules will help to cope with this task:

We do not purchase aluminum wires. Why? Increased brittleness, not the possibility of direct twisting with copper, lower throughput with an equal cross section;
We use stranded wires: standard two or three-core, when planning a grounding device;
For power points of household appliances from the junction box, use a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2;
For lamps with a power of 0.1 to 2 kW, a wire with a cross section of even 0.5 mm 2 is enough;
When purchasing a wire, follow the priorities in descending order: material, section, insulation, price.

table

ratio of the cross-section of a stranded copper wire for use in a network with a voltage of 220V to the load power

Wire section in mm	Power in kW	Current in A
0,5	2,4	11
0,75	3,3	15
1	3,7	17
1,5	5	23
2	5,7	26

Step four: We connect the wiring according to the wiring diagram

And so, there is a circuit, the cable channels are installed, the wiring is divorced, it remains to connect the pre-purchased sockets, switches and lamps into one working circuit. In the connection process, I recommend using two methods: block and twist method. In general, some number 5, seven or even 7! such methods, but those that I offer are the simplest, most reliable and not expensive.

Preparation and installation of the connection in the block

The first step is to remove part of the insulation of the wire that will be attached to the terminal. As long as it's not removed! Teeth and a sharp knife are not a good option. It’s clear about the teeth, but when using a knife, there is a possibility of damage to the conductive part of the wire. It is possible to use heating with a suitable device, and even better, purchase an automatic stripper - a special tool for stripping insulation.

Wire stripping tools

It is necessary to measure somewhere 3 cm from the beginning of the wire and melt (or bite off with a stripper) part of the insulation. We pull out the conductive part leaving 1 cm and then, twisting the wire, we get the perfect twist. After twisting, cut off the excess with wire cutters and solder the conductive part.

Preparing the wire for installation in the block

After that, we twist the bare conductive part for connection in the block and inserting it under the washer into the sockets of the block, tighten the screw. Carbolite terminal blocks are mounted in accordance with GOST 17557-88. Installation of wires with a cross section of up to 1.5 mm in such blocks does not absolutely cause any difficulties.

Installation of the wire in the block and installation in the junction box

Preparation and installation of a twist connection

Connections can be made by twisting the wires. This option is cheaper, but not by much, so the choice is yours. Although after installation by the twisting method, everything will be hidden in a junction box and the chosen option will not affect the aesthetic side of the issue. And about the reliability and efficiency of twisting, as a method of connection, we can say the following.

At the moment, this connection method is a little disliked, assuming that it is morally outdated and somehow flawed, especially since the construction market offers us many affordable, modern and technological solutions. But the fact remains: twisting is one of the most reliable types of installation for one simple reason. With a high-quality connection, the contact area of the connected elements is larger than when using other options! And this, in turn, provides confidence that overheating of the junction will not occur, which makes this choice safer and more reliable.

How to make a quality twist?

We remove part of the insulating coating of the wires;
We make a kind of fan out of each wire;
We combine the resulting fans in the same plane;
We make manual twisting of wires;
We make additional twisting with the help of pliers;
We solder the resulting twist;
We remove the end of the resulting twist with the help of wire cutters;
We isolate the connection with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

How to make a quality twist

Everything on this virtual wiring in the bath according to the selected scheme is completed. But however, in order not to deceive the expectations of individual readers, I post working proven wiring diagram in the bath. Everyone, on its basis, can make his own design, suitable for him, by removing or adding the necessary elements.

Electrician in the bath: important practical tips

In conclusion, I will give some simple but important practical tips regarding the organization of electricians in the bath. There are NO significant moments that relate to electrics!

Power sockets are connected to the shield with a cable with a cross section of 2.5 brand VVG or NYM 3x2.5, lighting and a switch are connected with the same cable with a wire cross section of 1.5 sq. mm.
Everything passages through walls performed in a metal sleeve;
Cable is laid at a height of 10 cm from the ceiling, distribution boxes are installed at the same distance boxes;
switches and distribution boxes installed from the side of relatively dry rooms;
Sockets in the steam room are not installed, sockets with IP44 protection can be installed in the bathroom or washing room, for the protection of which a separate RCD and an automatic device are installed in the shield;
Fixtures they are connected to the junction box with a 3x1.5 cable and when laying the cable under the wooden trim of the steam room or sink, they must be inside the metal pipe;
In order not to deal with laying the cable in the pipe, lamps in the sauna can be installed in corners, and connected from above through the attic in order to reduce the length of the cable that passes under the lining, and first pass the cable into a copper pipe, which is easier to mount and bend;
Do not try hide wiring under a wooden plinth, place the wires near the floor together with sockets and extension cords. What if you accidentally drop a bucket of water, there will be fireworks! It may be necessary to add an RCD. Remember about children, pets, start worrying in advance;
Do not twist together aluminum and copper wire. This is an unreliable connection, it will oxidize over time and there will be no necessary contact, and with a high current there will also be heating, and there it’s not far from a fire. Do not make such a connection even for a while, then you will forget, and everything temporary becomes permanent. Use contact plugs.
For greater safety, after each input of electrical wires, whether it be a bathhouse, an outbuilding or a house, it is advisable to put separate automatic fuse. This will facilitate further troubleshooting, provide better protection, and in the event of a short circuit, it will work faster;
If single-phase wiring, then it is desirable to separate wires for sockets through your automatic fuse and wires for lighting through the other. You will not be left in complete darkness, again, it is easier then to find the cause of the malfunction yourself. If the electrical network is three-phase, then each phase must be evenly loaded with consumers. For example, put one phase into sockets, the second for lighting, the third for household needs: a pump, a water heater, lighting for a change house, etc. Overloading in case of simultaneous switching on of electrical appliances is excluded.

Three words about connectors and why I don't like them?

As for the connectors - a separate issue, I personally am afraid to use them, this disease remained from the operation of the Volga car. When I turned on the dipped beam, smoke poured from under the torpedo, this made me return from the dacha before dark, I even had to exceed the speed limit so as not to catch fire. They passed the law - to drive with the headlights on, decided that they had completely overlaid it, could not stand it, removed the torpedo, cleaned the contact connection on the switch and soldered it. A friend of mine had a torpedo at nine burned out completely, he himself barely had time to jump out of the car, he was lucky! If copper wires are used, then it is better to twist them, solder them, wrap them with insulating tape. If you are confident in the quality of the connecting contacts, then it is easier with them.

Which circuit to put the light switch on?

I recently made an important discovery for myself. I never thought about which circuit to put the lighting switch on - phase or zero? Do you know that yourself? At first I thought that it was safer along the neutral wire, it would not shake if the switch broke. It turned out that by phase - safer. If a light bulb cartridge is stuck in the chandelier, and the bulb itself remains in the hands, we turn off the light and with pliers on a stepladder, without fear that it will shake, calmly turn the cartridge out. If you approach in the reverse order, then in the case of shaking, falling from the ladder, pushing off the chandelier, is extremely inconvenient than sliding down the wall with a switch.

About lamps and dimmers in the bath

And more about lamps. Now everyone is gradually abandoning incandescent lamps and switch to energy saving and rightly so, such lamps allow you to save electricity, last longer and heat up slightly. However, it should be borne in mind that some lighting control devices on the market, in particular dimmers (light intensity controllers) and switches with diode backlighting, are not suitable for such lamps.

As for dimmers, you need to use special models for energy-saving lamps, dimmers for conventional lamps with energy-saving ones do not work due to the peculiarities of the latter. Diode-lit switches can cause the lamps to flicker when the lights are off, which again is due to differences in the design of conventional and energy-saving lamps. If your lamp is flickering when the light is off, then it is probably the switch that is to blame. It is necessary either to turn off the backlight diode in the switch, or use a special switch, I think that such should exist.

This article is over… It is clear that for someone the number of letters, text and information presented will seem redundant, for someone, on the contrary, something will not be enough. However, the goal of this article was not to make you a ready-made professional electrician. The goal was to give an understanding of the whole process of organizing electricians in the bath with their own hands, as well as to pay attention to certain important points of its installation. I hope this worked out and the information is useful to you ...

In the soap and steam room, the lamps should be sealed. Silicone seals are better than rubber seals (the latter break down faster, and the fixtures lose their tightness).

You can read more about lamps in articles on: lighting,.

In general, in the steam room and washing are acceptable only light sources, and even switches for them, should be located outside these rooms.

LIFE HACK! Make a small loop on the wire before leading the wire into the luminaire body - this will prevent condensation from flowing inside.

In order for the lighting to be safe, it is worth putting an RCD on the lighting group. 30 mA is enough to protect a person.

220, 12 or 36 volts?

Installation of wiring in wet areas is always associated with the choice of voltage of the installed equipment. Many are inclined to believe that it is safer to install 12 or 36-volt light sources. We are talking about economical halogen lamps or LED strips. 36-volt there are also conventional incandescent lamps.

How to conduct electricity to the bath with your own hands, if you need to connect a step-down transformer for a certain group? Modern transformers have very modest dimensions and are quite capable of being placed inside the switchboard. But that doesn't mean it's the only place for them.

You may well put a transformer directly in front of the wiring for lighting the steam room and washing.

An important point when choosing a transformer is to determine its power. Since it depends on the total power of the light sources, you should add everything and add 20-30% over.

In addition to the transformer to power the LED strip, you can use power supply. First you will need to find out what is the power of this tape per meter, and then multiply by the number of meters.

Switching power supplies that are used for LED strips are made in different cases - plastic, aluminum And open. Despite the fact that aluminum is the heaviest, it is also considered the most durable and reliable.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget to add margin if you don't want the transformer or PSU to burn out too quickly.

It is worth noting that with RCD the danger of the same incandescent lamps in the steam room becomes minimal. And halogens or LEDs have their drawbacks - the former are short-lived, the latter are intolerant of high temperatures and are sensitive to fluctuations in the current strength in the network. And the RCD or difavtomat is able to protect against electric shock in the network at both 220 and 380 volts.

ADVICE! Monthly it is worth checking the performance of the RCD - just do not forget to press the "test" button at such intervals.

Sockets

The outlet group is just as important. To begin with, let us clarify that you can put sockets everywhere, except for all the same steam room and washing.

Sockets are designed for different current strength- 10 and 16 amps. You should estimate approximately what load will be on the sockets in order to choose the appropriate option.

The calculation formula is simple: we sum up the power of the connected electrical appliances and divide the sum of watts by 220 volts.

You can go from the opposite: for a socket with a current limit of 10 A, the connected power limit is 2200 watts. For 16 A - 3520 W.

Depending on the choice you made, circuit breaker, which you put in the shield, must match the outlet in terms of current rating. For a 10 A socket, a 10 A switch.

What does it give? If you connect several consumers to one 16 A socket, for example, 4 kW in total, then the current in the network will be 18 A, which without a circuit breaker would lead to overheating of the socket and, possibly, a fire. And it will just turn off and that's it.

How to select the cable section will be discussed a little later.

Power group

It is customary to single out the most powerful consumers, such as an electric furnace, as a special power group. It is clear that they will also be powered from sockets, but their difference from the socket group is that for them, other parameters are selected, designed for a large current strength.

For example, if you have a 10 kW electric stove, then the current in the 220 V network will be 45.5 A. For such cases, use special power sockets capable of withstanding the high power of the electrical appliance.

In addition to a special outlet, the power group will require copper cable of a larger cross section than other wiring.

Well, he will protect her. own RCD with automatic or difavtomat.

Cable installation on walls

Email wiring in the bath is connected by a number of standards described in the PUE. Since we have already given extensive excerpts from this document, we will now state the essence briefly.

Briefly about the choice of brand and cable thickness

The bath is a humid, and in some places also a hot room, so in order to properly conduct the wiring, you need to choose the right cable with insulation that will not be affected by these adverse factors. In the premises, in addition to the washing and steam rooms, PVC insulation, NYM and VVGng cables can be used.

It is highly not recommended to lay wiring in the washing and steam rooms. It is permissible to make holes in the wall, insert metal cartridge cases and lead through the wall wiring to light sources in these premises. In this case, the switches are made outside!

But, since even a small piece of wire that will be in the steam room will be exposed to high temperatures, and its insulation will collapse in a short time, it can be recommended to lead the wire into the steam room with insulation made of silicone rubber– RKGM or PRKS, for example. It can withstand temperatures up to 170 degrees.

The thickness of the cable depends on the future load, but we immediately recommend taking the section with a margin. You already know how to calculate the current strength (we divide the power by the mains voltage), now find the appropriate section in the table (not forgetting the reserve):

Differences between wiring in different rooms of the bath

Wires can be laid as open wiring, and inside the walls. The standards for a bath are contrary to the standards for a wooden room. Therefore, we will consider this: again outside the steam room and washing it is better to lay the cable on the surface, and in the steam room and washing room - do not put at all. If the bath is not wooden, you can do hidden wiring.

open wiring should not be in a metal sheath. Plastic corrugation, cable channels and twisted wiring on ceramic insulators are acceptable. It is also desirable to lay strips between the wires and the wall heat insulator.

Useful video

You may need a report from one of the owners of the bath about the purchased and installed electrical equipment:

And here is another good video that you can use as an instruction:

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