A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is a suspended finish design, a metal frame that holds the weight of it all is also mounted on several levels.

The surest option is to install the first level of drywall, and the second level of CD profiles is attached on top of it. The main thing at the same time to observe one single rule is not to combine the seams of several levels in one plane. That's why it's more convenient to make ceilings with curved lines and shapes - new level they still won't repeat.

The first layer of drywall is attached in the usual way - along the guide profiles and the crate. The metal profiles themselves can be fixed rigidly to the draft ceiling, or they can be held on metal straps, and also around the perimeter (just on self-tapping screws).

Both options are quite good, but installation on a solid ceiling is not always reasonable (for example, if it is not even).

In total, multi-tiered plasterboard ceilings are mounted as follows:

• first, the main layer of drywall is made in the usual way;
• then you need to make a new frame for the second level, initially setting the shape of the boxes;
• further - new levels are gradually attached to the desired height. All lighting and electrical (wiring) will be hidden in the box itself.

Do-it-yourself three-level plasterboard ceiling: installation

You can use an example to consider the process of installing a three-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Moreover, the last layer will be “floating”, that is, without attachment to the walls. Multi-tiered ones are made in the same way as a three-level one, only taking into account the static weight of the structure. Accordingly, for the first level, it is necessary to make an extremely strong frame that can withstand not only static, but also dynamic loads (so that the ceiling does not collapse when flooded from neighbors above, for example).

So, the structure is created as follows:

• First - the main crate of aluminum profiles.
• The first layer of drywall is attached to the crate and is rigidly connected at the seams with flea screws.
• Further, a new profile is laid along the first level drywall. Rigidity of a design will provide installation on perimeter.
• Then the device is closed with the same drywall box, aligned to the desired height.
• The last stage is a floating drywall level, which is attached in a similar way, only closed CD profiles are used. The form is free.

Tiered stretch ceilings are mounted in a similar way, only a film is used instead of drywall sheets. Backlighting is done last, that is, when the base of the ceiling is already ready.

What is a soaring plasterboard ceiling

Do-it-yourself multi-level plasterboard ceilings with lighting

A multi-level ceiling, unlike a single continuous layer, has a so-called deflection index. And it must be taken into account. Accordingly, the installation of one level on the second is only made rigid, without any ties or suspensions that cannot withstand a mass of more than 10 kilograms.

To create multi-level ceilings, you should use the appropriate classification profiles CD, D, CW, UW and the like. Only in this way can the structure easily withstand even high humidity in the apartment (drywall, like a sponge, absorbs even moisture floating in the air).

As for the backlight, hide the controller and power supply under led strip and lamps are generally recommended in a separate niche made in the wall. The wiring is laid in any convenient way, but preferably not through the profile. Otherwise, when the wire burns out, you will have to disassemble almost the entire ceiling and remove the layer of plaster.

Material on the use of multi-level ceilings in the interior will also be useful:

On average, the maximum possible load level of the ceiling is:

• 100 kilograms for the first level (room 3 by 3 meters on average);
• 60 kilograms - on the second;
• 30 kilograms - for the third.

These are the limit values. But the less, the better.

Multi-level plasterboard flows (video)

In total, it is not difficult to make a multi-level ceiling with your own hands. The only difficulty is creating a sketch on which drywall sheets will be placed, as well as cutting them. To create curly bends, it is better to use an electric jigsaw, and treat all cut points with fine-grained sandpaper.

Multi-level plasterboard ceiling with backlight (photo)

If the conversation is about apartment renovation, plasterboard ceilings have become, perhaps, "the talk of the town" for the average citizen of our vast Motherland. Many complain that this is a very expensive pleasure, but there is real opportunity save money - make multi-level ceilings.

If you think that it is impossible to do it yourself, then you are very deeply mistaken - stay with us and you can do it!

Suspended plasterboard ceiling

Tiered plasterboard ceilings? Do it yourself

To do suspended ceiling from drywall with your own hands it is not at all necessary to study each individual design, by the way, one of these options is contained in the video clip on this page.

You just need to understand the principles of construction for yourself metal frame, both for a flat ceiling and for a ceiling with curly elements, where the lines are bent, and this must be done from an even metal profile.

Ceiling markings for the frame of the first level

• First of all, you must remember that regardless of the height of the ceilings in the room, the minimum depth of the frame of the first level can be at least 25 mm, since this is the thickness of the CD profile, on which drywall sheets (gypsum boards) are suspended.

• For marking, you will need a water level, and try to get one that is several meters longer than the diagonal of your ceiling.
  Make a mark in one of the corners indicating the lower level of the metal frame and use your water level to transfer this mark to all corners of the room.

Advice. I would like to say about the use of a water level under the ceiling.

If you need to put the marks too close to the ceiling, then the plastic level cones will interfere with you, so it's better to remove them altogether and use one tube.

Installation of a metal frame

• For installation, you will need at least two types of metal drywall profiles - CD and UD. In this case, take the UD and screw it to the marked wall, and the line should coincide with the bottom of the profile.
  Multi-tiered ceilings will thus receive the first level.
• For installation, it is best to use a plastic dowel-dummy, 6 mm in diameter, and a screw to it, 4-5 mm in diameter.
  The factory-made dowel-screw will not work, because due to the small diameter of the screw, the dowel is poorly distributed in the wall and can crawl out.

• Now you need to install U-shaped suspensions or pawns along the lines on the ceiling. The distance between them should not exceed 50-60 cm.
• The diameter requirements for the dowel-screw kit remain the same as for the wall, but there is one caveat - since there are voids in the concrete, the dowel usually falls into them, so you need a dowel with a flared sleeve or an impact dowel, but with a different , with a thicker screw.

• Now it's time to install the CD profiles. To do this, we cut them to the desired length (5 mm shorter so that the CD does not bend when mounted in the UD) and insert the CD into the UD under the already screwed hangers.

• Multi-level plasterboard ceilings must be even, so to level the CD profiles under them, you need to pull the thread, but sagging profiles will pull it back, so each CD should be pulled up with one hanger, bending your ears under the profile.
  Fix the thread under the UD profiles by screwing it with self-tapping screws.

• If you have a need to install CD profiles on the ceiling more than 4m, then use the connecting element for extension.
  You can also make such an element yourself - just insert a piece inside the profiles wooden block, and from below, tighten with wood screws.

In order for a self-tapping screw for a drywall profile to be screwed in without problems, it must hold well on the nozzle.

To do this, when buying self-tapping screws, ask the seller for nozzle No. 2 and put on a self-tapping screw - if in a horizontal position and even a little lower it does not fly off the cross, then everything is in order.

GKL installation

Second level

• We are considering a multi-level ceiling and, for clarity, we will resort to the classic options with a circle in the middle.
  To do this, first of all, draw this circle on the ceiling.
  We screw a screw into the center and use a thin wire with a pencil tied at the end as a radial compass rod (you can’t use a thread, as it stretches).

• At the level of the circle profile, we fasten the UD profile to the wall and insert the CD profiles into them. In places where the CD will be longer than 50 cm, we strengthen the profile with a suspension.

• We close the second level with drywall. Sheets need to be cut in a circle after they have already been screwed - this is much more accurate.
  In order to block the vertical plane, cut out a strip of the desired width and after 5-7 cm cut the paper on it from the convex side of the bend.
• Don't forget to run wires for lights. If the design of the ceiling provides for lamps in a vertical plane, then in these places when installing the profile, you can make a pass.

Conclusion

Now you have an understanding of the basics for installing drywall on a ceiling, and besides, you now know how to mount a figured caisson, as you learned how to make a circle. Do-it-yourself multi-tiered ceilings can be of very different configurations, and there are more complex devices, but you already have the basics of installation knowledge.

Beautiful, stylish, original ... many more epithets can be picked up admiring the beautiful two-level plasterboard ceiling. This is precisely the unusual design of these ceilings. The fact that each ceiling looks different.

And the more imagination you show when developing sketches of the ceiling, the brighter it will characterize you and decorate the hall, bedroom, living room or kitchen.

At first glance, it seems that only a tandem of a designer and professional builders can create such beauty. But no, for the installation of plasterboard ceilings, you do not need to finish art school, have higher education majoring in construction. You don't even need a set of special tools. It is enough just to have an idea of ​​what kind of ceiling you want to make and get. Also, get a little creative. The rest is a matter of technique.

Despite the fact that visually all the ceilings are different, the difference is given to them by the final decoration and good design. Someone is more concerned about, and someone is about the design, although these processes can be connected, complementing each other.

The technology for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling is identical for each type (single-level, multi-level). And to make it easier for a beginner, this article will provide step by step instructions- how to install 2-level plasterboard ceilings. But first, some theory...

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - plan

First of all, there are a few important things to keep in mind:

• room height. A two-level ceiling design will reduce the height of the room. For residents modern apartments in panel house even 5-10 cm are already significant losses;

Advice.
If you have a perfectly flat ceiling, then you can mount the second level of the frame directly on it. This way you save space.

• distribution of accents. With luminaires built into the frame plasterboard ceiling you can zone the space or shift the focus to any part of the room.

You can purchase lamps of any power. Drywall systems do not impose any restrictions on your choice. As, for example, stretch ceilings or plastic ones, where there is a danger of using powerful light fixtures (it can lead to deformation and even fire).

• room humidity. Such a ceiling is not recommended to equip in the bathroom, because the sheet may be deformed. Although, there is moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV), for example, Knauf, with correct installation and the organization of high-quality ventilation, it may well serve.

Advice.
As a protection of drywall from moisture, a primer is applied in several layers.

• the presence of assistants. It is not possible for a person to do this work on his own.

• design complexity. How harder design, the more difficult it is to calculate the amount of materials and mount them, and, accordingly, the work will last longer.

(single-level, two-level and multi-level)

Drywall and profile mounting tool

• metal scissors;
• perforator or drill;
• paint knife;
• square;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• building level;
• drywall planer;
• drywall grater;
• spatula narrow and wide;
• gloves and goggles.

Plasterboard ceiling materials

This selection is needed so that you can calculate and know exactly what to buy, what this or that element looks like, and for what purpose it is used. We hope that thanks to this detailed description You will not buy too much and save money and nerves.

Typically used ceiling drywall. Its thickness is 9.5 mm.

For the second tier, in which lamps and sidewalls are not provided, you can use arched drywall. Its thickness is 6 mm.

Designed for splicing two CD-profiles.

On it, the profile is attached to the ceiling.

It is used if the length of the direct suspension is not enough for installation. That is, the second level of the ceiling is lowered too low.

For connecting CD profiles at different levels.

Advice. During installation, try to reduce the number of extensions of this type of profile.

Designed for connecting CD-profiles on the same level.

Advice.
The crab can be replaced. How to do this can be seen in the photo.

Its purpose is to connect the CD profile perpendicularly and at the same level.

The choice depends on the material from which the walls and ceiling are made.

Self-tapping screw "flea" Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 by 9.5 mm. - "flea".

Sickle tape (self-adhesive)

For gluing seams or interlining for pasting the ceiling completely.

(ceiling, point, halogen or LED led).

Advice. The wiring for the fixtures is started before the plasterboard lining work begins.

Schemes and sketches of two-level plasterboard ceilings

Knowing what you want to see on the ceiling, as a result, will greatly simplify your material calculation and work.

Before making ceiling drawings, check out what types of two-level plasterboard ceilings exist.

Illuminated plasterboard ceiling - installation methods

The first method consists in the device of the second level without mounting the first. Used if you have an ideal ceiling surface. And the lamp is supposed to be placed in the frame.

The approach is the same. But the lamps are also mounted on the side of the frame.

Installation of two frames. Lamps are mounted in the second of them.

The installation approach is the same. But the lamps are located along the perimeter of the second tier.

Similar approach. But for side lamps, instead of a frame, a polypropylene profile is provided, which is glued to the second-level frame using putty.

Using one of the presented basic types of installation, you can easily create such sketches of a two-level ceiling that all family members will like.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling - installation instructions

It should be noted that among professionals there is disagreement in what order to implement the arrangement of tiers. Two ways can be distinguished.

• In the first case, work begins with the installation of the frame of the first level. And then the skeleton of the second tier is suspended from it. Applicable if the area of ​​the second tier is insignificant, because in fact the entire weight of the second frame falls on the sheets of the first.

• In the second case, the frame of the second tier is assembled first, and the frame of the first is made between its elements. More complex design.

We will talk in more detail about the first option for installing a two-level ceiling. This will give you basic installation information. The second option, more complex, will be described below and illustrated in the photo.

We make a two-level plasterboard ceiling consistently and in accordance with the instructions, then the work will be done efficiently.

The technology for the manufacture of 2-level plasterboard ceilings provides for the execution of work in the following order:

1. Preparing the ceiling for drywall (preparing the workplace).
2. We mark the ceiling under the frame for drywall.
3. Installation of a frame for drywall - the first level.
4. Installing the frame for drywall - the second level.
5. Finishing a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

1. Preparing the ceiling for drywall

Finishing the ceiling is not like screwing in a light bulb - here you can’t do without the removal of furniture.

Free up the room and approaches to it, so it will be easier to carry out installation. It is important to prepare the surface itself. Agree, it is better to do something in a free place than to constantly go around, cut off, wash off some residues. All loose plaster must be removed. Some craftsmen leave it, but everything that does not hold well sooner or later will disappear.

2. Marking the ceiling under the drywall frame

To do this, you need to take the following steps:

- measure the height of the corners in the room;

Find the corner with the smallest height.

It will serve as the starting point for marking. After all, we need the structure to be even relative to the horizontal;

- make markup.

On the walls for profiles, we mark a straight line. We put dots on the ceiling for direct suspension. Extra markup is useless, it will only confuse. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser level or a water level.

Advice. water level desired length can be made independently using a nylon hose (for example, from a medical dropper) with a diameter of 10-15 mm. and filling it with water.

It may happen that in your room not only the angles are different, but also the length of opposite sides. In this case, try to level horizontally first. And then draw a clear pattern on the ceiling and level the structure along the edges. So you can visually center the ceiling.

3. Installing the drywall frame - first level installation

3.1. Installation begins with the installation of UD profiles.

They are guides and are mounted on the wall, around the perimeter of the entire structure. Fastening step - 600 mm. Also on the ceiling.

The method of connecting the profile on the wall and in the corner is shown in the photo (right and left, respectively).

If it is supposed to form rounded elements, you need to draw a picture on the wall, and attach a UD profile to it. But first, you need to make notches on the profile.

And fasten along the line drawn on the ceiling.

3.2. We attach a direct suspension to the points marked on the ceiling.

At the same time, we observe the fastening step - 600 mm.

If your ceiling surface is perfect, then you can skip this step. And start immediately with the installation of the second level.

3.3. A CD-profile is attached to a direct suspension.

The resulting frame will have the form presented in the diagram and photo.

The rigidity of the frame will give the use of crabs.

Advice.

Where the sheet is cut, a chamfer must be provided. To do this, cut off a piece of material from a sheet of drywall with a knife.

This is necessary in order to better fit the putty on the seam. And the seam did not disperse over time.

4. Installation of the frame for drywall - installation of the second level

4.1. Marking the frame for drywall.

To do this, we draw lines under the UD profile on the wall, and draw a future drawing on the ceiling.

The presence of a diagram on the ceiling will not only simplify the installation process, but also help you understand how your structure will look after the work is completed. And, therefore, you will have the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments.

We mount the ceiling frame from a metal profile (UD-profile), fixing it on the wall and on the ceiling.

How to make a frame desired shape(round profile) we already know.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

4.3. We lower the frame to the desired length.

For this you need:

• cut the CD profile to the length you want to lower the frame;

• on one side of these pieces, cut out the "tongues". To do this, cut off the side parts of the profile. This will make it easier to install them.

• insert the cut pieces into the guide UD profile, which is already fixed to the ceiling. Insert with straight side.

• fix the pieces with a "flea". The step between straight segments is 500-600 mm. A larger step will make the structure not reliable enough, a smaller one will make it heavier. Step between curved segments - 200-300 mm. This is due to the fact that the curved sheet needs to be fixed more often.

• “put on” a UD profile on the hanging pieces and secure them with a “flea”.

As a result, you should get a sidewall of the frame, like this.

Then follows:

• cut the CD-profile to the length that is equal to the distance from the frame sidewall to the UD-profile located on the wall;

• fasten them with "fleas" on both sides.

You have a finished metal frame. After that, it should be sheathed with drywall and proceed to the finishing work.

Advice. When assembling the frame, look at the drawings. Otherwise, it may happen that the jumper will take the place of the future lamp.

The photo and picture show how to bend the drywall for the arch and how the CD profile and drywall sheet should be prepared.

Their device is very simple, it is important to correctly make notches on the sheet without cutting through the front layer of cardboard.

If it is possible to cut the desired size from a whole sheet, the issue is easily solved. If not, cut out the segments and mount them piece by piece.

It should be noted that in this case the frame must be stiffer. Since, each self-tapping screw is screwed into the profile.

The result of your efforts should look something like the one shown in the photo.

5. Plasterboard ceiling finish

We sew the seams with a sickle tape.

Apply a little putty to the tape with a small spatula.

It is not difficult to independently assemble a multi-level plasterboard ceiling. It is enough to have a little experience and perform all the installation steps in sequence. But you should immediately warn that the lower ceiling levels are marked on a leveled surface. Therefore, if the height of the ceiling in the room is insufficient for leveling with drywall, you may have to leave the main ceiling as the upper level, after straightening it with plaster or putty.

Ceiling preparation

First, from the ceiling you need. If the panels were glued, then they must be removed and the surface of the ceiling cleaned of traces of glue. If there was a stretch ceiling, then it is disassembled, all fasteners and other elements are removed. if initially the base of the ceiling is crooked, it must be pre-assembled

Top level markup

The markup begins with a horizontal line. For this, a laser level is used. You can also use water, but laser is more convenient and faster.

The device must be placed in the center of the room, turned on and wait until the beam calms down. Next, the laser is directed alternately to the corners of the room, and marks are made on each of the converging walls.

According to the risks received, they fight back horizontal lines with paint string. It is pulled taut between the corners, then pulled slightly away from the wall and released to produce a pop. As a result, a clear mark remains on the wall. To obtain the basic horizontal, this operation must be repeated on all walls.

Since the first level is leveling, it should be as close as possible to the main ceiling. To determine its location, it is necessary to find the lowest angle, for which the distance from the ceiling to the base horizontal is measured. Where it is the smallest, there will be the desired angle.

Now, to get the ceiling line of the first level, you need to:

• set aside in the found corner from the ceiling 4-5 cm (PP-profile thickness plus a gap of 1-2 cm);
• measure the distance from the base horizontal to the mark made on the converging walls;
• set aside this distance in the remaining corners;
• connect the received marks, having beaten off the lines with a masking cord.

Video: Plasterboard ceiling in two levels. Installation of drywall on the frame.

• marks are placed on the ceiling along a long wall in increments of 400-600 mm. Marking should start from the shortest wall in the room;
• markings are made on the second, parallel wall, starting from the same side as in the previous step;
• as a result of connecting the marks, parallel lines are obtained, along which the fixation points of the suspensions are marked with a step of 700 mm.

Hangers are installed perpendicular to the lines using.

When installing a multi-level ceiling, the step between the intermediate frame profiles of the first tier should not exceed 400 mm, since it will carry an additional load. In addition, such a step makes it possible to install additional mortgages for fastening the structure of the second tier.

The next step is the installation of ceiling profiles. They are inserted into the wall profile guides and attached to the hangers. In order for the lower edges of all PP profiles to be in the same horizontal plane, you can stretch the fishing line or use the rail-rule. In this case, intermediate profiles are first set, which will act as beacon profiles. The remaining PP-profiles are already aligned on them.

Stiffening ribs are attached perpendicular to the mounted profiles with crabs. For them, a PP profile is also used. Stiffeners should be located at the planned joints of drywall sheets. Necessary information,

At the same stage, embedded profiles are installed under the second-level frame, since it cannot be fixed directly to drywall. Mortgages are installed according to the drawing, in predetermined places.

On this, the frame of the first tier is ready and can be sewn up drywall sheets. In this case, under each joint there must be a frame element. By the way, from GKL.

The video shows how to bend the profile for the ceiling correctly

Video: types of "snakes" for round plasterboard sides.

Installation of the second and subsequent levels

From the upper tier, the required height is laid on the walls, and guide profiles are fixed. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

According to the existing drawing, the contour of the lower one is marked on the sheets of drywall of the upper level. Pre-prepared blanks from the PN profile are attached along these lines. For straight sections - just segments of the required length. For curvilinear - the profile must be cut and bent to the desired shape. Stiffening ribs are also installed between the guides.

Now the side walls of the box of the second tier are being made. To do this, strips of the required width are cut from drywall, taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard. These strips are fixed on an already installed contour. They are fastened to their free edge from the inside with self-tapping screws of the PN-profile, which, in turn, are connected to the wall guides with additional profiles.

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How to assemble multi-level plasterboard ceilings - 2 different instructions for independent use

A few words about technology

What are the advantages of multi-level ceilings made of plasterboard?

Such designs differ from single-level analogues in greater functionality and more attractive design. For example, thanks to a multi-level configuration, it becomes possible to more efficiently arrange sources spot lighting for room zoning.

In addition, ceiling structures assembled in several levels are more suitable for installing ceiling hoods, hoods, air conditioning systems, fasteners for hanging curtains, roller shutter boxes, etc.

In this article, we will consider the technology for assembling two types of multi-level ceilings:

• Classic ceiling with a predominance of straight lines - is installed a little more complicated than single-level structures;
• Designs with more modern design with a predominance of curved lines.

To assemble multi-level ceilings, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Plasterboard sheet (GKL) - thickness 6.5 mm;
• Galvanized steel mounting profile;
• Self-tapping screw (metal-to-metal);
• Self-tapping screws with press washers;
• Perforator with a drill for concrete (diameter 6 mm);
• Screwdriver and bits with limiter;
• Laser level (alternatively spirit level and plumb line);
• Tinted lace for leveling;
• Hacksaw with a small tooth and zero wiring;
• Scissors for metal;
• Segment knife.

There are several types of profiles on sale and they are distinguished from each other not only by the price. For example, some profiles have a reinforced structure designed for mechanical loading. At the same time, other profiles are thinner and lighter and can be used where there is no need for excessive rigidity and strength.

Assembling a classic two-level ceiling with lighting

On the proposed scheme, you can get acquainted with the features of the design that we will assemble:

• The center remains plastered concrete floor, that is, it is zero;
• The ceiling itself relative to zero will be lowered by 120 mm;
• The design provides a console for lighting around the entire inner perimeter;
• The design provides a niche for placing cornices;
• The side along the entire perimeter is 600 mm wide;
• Niche depth 250 mm;
• The diameter of the decorative recesses is selected in accordance with aesthetic preferences.

It must be understood that the dimensions given in the instructions are given in relation to the object on which the Finishing work. At self finishing use the actual dimensions calculated according to the dimensions of the ceiling.

Instruction installation work next:

• Via laser level or spirit level, we determine the most protruding overlap point - the minimum from which subsequent marking will be carried out;

• Relative to the minimum, we measure 120 mm on the walls and beat off a straight line around the perimeter;
• On the ceiling, we mark a rectangle that will correspond to the inner perimeter of the ceiling structure, indented from the outer perimeter by 600 mm;

• At the corners of the inner perimeter, we draw the diameters of the circles for decorative elements;

How to mark a circle without a compass big size? In the center of the proposed circle, we drill a hole for the dowel nail. In a piece of profile, we drill two holes, spaced from each other by a distance equal to the desired diameter.
Through one hole, we attach the profile to the ceiling with a dowel, and insert the end of a pencil or marker into the other hole. By turning the profile around the fixing dowel, you can mark the circle of the required size.

• We fix the profile along the perimeter outlined along the walls;

• We fix the profile according to the markings made on the ceiling;

How to fix a profile? We drill through holes in the metal bar for the diameter of the screw. Attach the plank to mounting surface and mark the location of the through holes. According to the marks in the mounting surface, we drill holes for the length of the dowel, apply the bar to the surface and fasten the dowel-nails.

• We fasten the profile along the radial markings;

In order to give the metal bar a rounded shape, according to outside of the intended fold, approximately every 2 cm, we make cuts with metal scissors. If the profile is bent, the incisions made will spread evenly and it will be possible to obtain a fold with a more or less uniform diameter.

• In accordance with the markup, we collect from the profile a rectangular perimeter of a niche for curtains;
• We fasten drywall strips along the straight sections of the inner perimeter;

To fasten the GKL strips, we use inserts cut from pieces of the profile, as shown in the photo. By the way, at this stage it is not necessary to pre-cut the strips to the desired size. It will be possible to trim the transition from one level to another later, and this can be done by level.

• We fix the strip in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe niche for curtains;
• In the gap between the outer and inner perimeters, as shown in the photo, we install embedded elements on which the plasterboard will be attached and which will serve as a structural amplifier;

• We sew decorative circles;

How to bend a strip of drywall to fix it on a rounded profile? In fact, everything is very simple - you need to make transverse cuts every 3-5 cm along the outside of the fold.

• Using the level, we mark the bottom edge along which it will be necessary to cut the transition from one level to another;

• We cut off the excess drywall around the entire perimeter;
• We sew up the underside of the structure, for now, without cutting the drywall to the required shape;
• We draw the inner perimeter of drywall with a margin for the console for installation;

• According to the markup, we cut the trim around the entire perimeter;
• We fasten the profile along the edge of the cut (see how to bend it correctly);

• We fix a strip of drywall on top of the fixed profile;
• We cut out the technological holes for the lamps and bring the wiring out;

• We carry out the finishing of the finished ceiling.

If the assembly of a multi-level ceiling is performed for the first time, the proposed instructions can be slightly simplified. For example, you can make a blind box around the perimeter of the room without built-in lights and without a niche for curtains. Again, you can do without gluing a baguette and simply align the edges of the drywall construction with putty.

Plasterboard construction in two circles under the stretch ceiling

Another variety drywall constructions, which I wanted to talk about assembling, is a ceiling with a decor from a double circle. As you can see in the photo, we are talking about a ceiling originally sheathed with oriented strand boards, on top of which a double perimeter sheathed with drywall was fixed.

The design feature is that it was originally planned for installation. stretch ceiling. This feature affected the design of the inner perimeter, which was additionally reinforced for this.

The assembly of the multi-level ceiling was carried out as follows:

• On the draft ceiling markings were made - 2 circles drawn with an impromptu compass assembled from a piece of profile;
• Marked out a perimeter equal to the thickness of the lower horizontal level on the walls of the room;

• According to the markings made, the profile was fixed both on the walls and on the ceiling;

• Along the first perimeter of the circle and along the frame of the niche, they began to fasten a strip of drywall;

• As the strip is fastened, we reinforce the structure with inserts cut from a piece of profile;

In order for the assembled structure to be even, we check each stage of installation work using a laser level. If there is no laser level, we use a spirit level for these purposes.

Reinforcing jumpers between the outer circle and the perimeter of the walls

• After sheathing the outer perimeter, it was fixed along its edge additional profile, which simultaneously reinforces the structure and serves to fasten the horizontal ceiling sheathing;

• In the gap between the outer ring and the wall, as shown in the photo, a crate was mounted from the profile;
• The crate was sheathed with plasterboard sheets from the outer circle to the wall;

Ceiling ready for finishing

• We attach pre-prepared liners to the profile.

After the entire frame is sheathed, you can start finishing the surfaces. We do not putty and do not level the free space along the inner circle, since it will be possible to subsequently install a stretch vinyl ceiling there.

Conclusion

So, I talked about how to assemble a multi-level plasterboard ceiling with my own hands. I hope the suggested instructions will be useful to you, and you can use them as an example.

Of course, some points in the technology of assembling suspended structures may not be clear. In this case, all questions of interest can be asked in the comments to the text, and I will definitely give exhaustive explanations. And as usual, I advise you to watch the video in this article, I'm sure you will be interested.