We build a bath with our own hands - a phased demonstration of construction. Do-it-yourself bath construction: choice of type, features, equipment

You can build a Russian bathhouse with your own hands from beginning to end, mount windows and doors yourself, put your own assembled wooden font, furniture. But first you need to competently raise the log house, lay the floor, sew up the ceiling, build a stove. Studying step-by-step instructions and professional advice will help with this.

Russian bath: features of its action

The body temperature of a person does not exceed 40 °, because he sweats, due to which he gives off excess heat to the surrounding air with the release of excess fluid. This is the principle of operation of any type of bath. The differences are only in the ratio of temperature and humidity.

In the Turkish bath (hammam), the humidity reaches 100%, and the temperature of the air, stone floor and benches does not exceed 40 °. In sauna ( Finnish bath) is the exact opposite. At 120° humidity is only 40%.

But the optimal combination of temperature and humidity for health (with no negative consequences there will be no such procedure) can only be maintained in a Russian bath, but only if it is correctly designed and built.

A bath cannot be called a cheap pleasure. If you order its construction on a turnkey basis, the amount may be unbearable. With average prices for materials and work of specialists, you will have to pay from 7 to 22 thousand dollars. The simplest bath can be built independently, significantly saving money.

The device of the Russian steam bath

Russian baths, as close as possible to traditional ones, are returning to fashion. They have their own characteristics:

• the foundation is a boulder stone that does not require a plinth;
• walls - a log house, wild, debarked and dried, selectively chopped logs that have not undergone any other processing;
• assembly without metal parts such as nails or corners;
• caulking natural materials such as tow and moss;
• warming natural materials, for example, peat or moss;
• waterproofing - natural resin;
• roof - shingle, sod or shingle;
• the stove must be stone;
• a font - a barrel, a pool (you can always run out into the street and plunge into a river, lake or rub yourself in the snow).

All this creates a lot of unnecessary difficulties, the bath itself is generally combustible and short-lived. But there is every opportunity to independently build a bath with the same qualities, but much more practical, modern. It is recommended to make a sauna house not only with a steam room, but also with a washing room, where there is a font, a tub for dipping or a shower, and a dressing room.

dressing room

They undress in it, store towels, sheets, bowls and brooms, rest between visits to the steam room, drink tea. This room serves as a barrier to cold air. There is a window (for security reasons, and for beauty).

steam room

It has a heater with a water tank, beds or shelves for lying. The furnace provides uniform strong heating and exposure to superheated steam without convective air mixing. The steam room may be small window for ventilation, which will help to avoid waterlogging (one or two ventilation holes can be made for the same purpose).

washing

The heat in this room comes from rear wall ovens. After visiting the steam room, you need to cool off in the font or in the shower, due to which toxins and toxins are removed from the body. At the same time, sweating does not stop, but due to high humidity even more intensified. Washing according to the principle of action resembles a hammam.

Preparing for construction

On a small plot, you can build a small bathhouse, which can comfortably accommodate three to four people.

Location selection

If the area is small, then you don’t have to choose much. But if it is spacious, then there is an opportunity to use all the possible advantages.

The simplest and cheapest foundation can be limited if the site has good solid soil and deep bedding ground water. The bath should not be close to the well, as it is considered a source of pollution, the house (so that the moisture from the drain does not damage the foundation), the toilet and compost pit(so as not to blur their content).

The choice of material for the walls

Although a bathhouse can now be built from anything, for example, from brick, polystyrene concrete, aerated concrete, expanded clay or foam blocks, there are physical laws that confirm the appropriateness of the conservative practice of our ancestors. And all due to the fact that it heats up a lot, and then cools down, high humidity is created in it, and after airing the rooms dry quickly. Blocks and bricks in this mode should have a special multilayer cladding.

The tree may not have any cladding. In addition, it is this material that, when warmed up, gives an exceptionally healthy and healthy heat. Therefore, for aesthetic and practical reasons, it is recommended to dwell on it.

The choice of wood species

The intensity of the steam depends on the wood from which the walls of the steam room are made:

1. Linden with its low heat capacity gives light, non-load steam. In such a bath, the air is always hotter than the walls, and besides, they are very useful. But you can’t find fake logs anymore, they are practically not harvested.
2. Oak with a high heat capacity gives "vigorous" steam, hard to bear. In addition, the walls add temperature. Oak logs are incredibly expensive, so they are usually used only as lower crowns.
3. The best option is conifers. The heat from the walls and air in such baths is approximately the same. In addition, the material is quite accessible. The best conifer tree for a bath log house - larch, but you will have to fork out for its purchase. If this is not possible, then pine or spruce will do.

What you need to pay attention to when buying wood:

How to choose the right type of lumber

Glued imitations are suitable for any building, except for a bathhouse. The slats from which the beam (or log) is made warp and deform from temperature.

A solid beam can be profiled or ordinary edged. The main disadvantage of the second type is frequent warping as a result air drying. Profiled timber is expensive, and not everyone is suitable for building a bath, for example, material with notches at the top is not suitable due to the collection of condensate in them.

Therefore, most often it is a log that is used for the construction of a bath. Raw, or wild, is difficult to buy. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a rounded log: it is well dried, even. It should not have radial cracks, as condensate accumulates in them, and this leads to decay. Similarly, it should not have cuts in the upper part. For cutting into a bowl, the log must have a so-called lunar groove at the bottom.

In advance, you need to choose the cutting method. There are several options for decorating the ends of logs and collecting them into a structure:

• "into the bowl";
• "in the paw";
• Canadian felling.

How to make a drawing of a bath

Since the length of the rounded log is 6 meters, it would be logical to take this into account when designing a bath, making its side exactly like that. The building must have a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a stove. The height of the bath is usually determined solely by the possibilities, but traditionally from floor to ceiling should be 220 or 230 cm.

Coordination of the project in administrative bodies

This is a key step. Without approval of the project before the start of construction, an already built bathhouse can be demolished due to any complaint from the neighbors, and you will lose the invested labor and money. The project should include the following items:

Approximate material calculation

To carry out the calculation, you need to take into account what diameter the log will have. For a bath, a larger one is better, but it is more expensive. The optimal diameter is 280 mm. The cost of 1 m 3 of such logs with cups is on average about 8 thousand rubles.

Now you need to determine the height of the pediment. For this, it is recommended to focus on natural conditions. With a large amount of precipitation, the pediment should be high, and the roof should be steep so that the snow does not linger badly on it, and when strong winds on the contrary, so as not to create excessive windage. The average height of the pediment is 1.5 m.

Photo gallery: drawings of a log house and the necessary parameters

Top view and log section parameters A drawing of a log house will help in filling in the initial data To calculate the amount of material, you must fill in all the initial data A special calculator can help with the calculation. All values ​​can be entered in a special table

What tool will you need

To build a bath with your own hands you need:

• electric saw;
• grinder with a set of disks;
• drill with various drills and grinding nozzles;
• planer, jointer (or electrical analogues);
• axes;
• scrap, mount;
• pincers, nail puller;
• shovel bayonet and shovel;
• hydraulic level;
• hammers;
• mallet;
• bit;
• a set of chisels;
• files;
• caulking tool;
• tape measure and carpenter's meter;
• buckets;
• wheelbarrow;
• stairs;
• construction goats;
• container for concrete or construction mixer.

Now you can proceed directly to the construction.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building from scratch

All work can be conditionally divided into stages that follow each other. Between some of them it is necessary to make a certain time interval.

Foundation construction

First you need to choose its type:

1. Foundation from natural boulders. Large stones with a cross-shaped notch are specially selected in the corners.
2. Not buried or shallowly buried strip foundation. Marking is done on the ground, a trench of the required width and depth is dug, a formwork is made, poured with mortar, covered with a film, and dried. Advantages - the comparative ease and cheapness of the structure. The disadvantage is that it cannot be used on unreliable soils with close groundwater, clay and sandy.
3. On unreliable soils and on a slope, it is recommended to mount a columnar pile foundation from asbestos-cement pipes concreted into the soil with stone filler. Advantages - resistance to subsidence and creep of the soil. The disadvantage is that it is more difficult to insulate the underground.
4. Metal welded pile-grillage foundation. Advantage - beauty and functionality. Disadvantage - requires special equipment for manufacturing.
5. The best foundation for a small bath is an unburied columnar one. It is made from ready-made concrete blocks measuring 200x200x400 mm. Advantages - ease of construction, low cost, versatility for any soil. There are no disadvantages.

Waterproofing and foundation lathing

All types of foundations, except for boulders, need waterproofing between. Usually they do it with the help of roofing material or bitumen.

Lathing with thin slats over waterproofing is needed to prevent capillary seepage of moisture into the frame. However, the columnar block foundation does not need it.

Drain system device

This stage takes place immediately after the construction of the foundation, before the construction of the log house, simultaneously with the insulation of the underground.

In the old bathhouses, the drain went straight through the plank floor to the ground, so the building was placed on a natural slope. Now such a drain is prohibited, but you can use the very idea in both the steam room and the washing room. It is recommended to organize a drain through the entire floor or collect it at one point where to install a grate-ladder. But the first option will be more environmentally friendly.

Important! In no case should the bath drain be connected to a common septic tank, it will simply choke due to volley discharges. You need to dig a separate drain hole.

The subfloor is pre-insulated with expanded clay, then a concrete screed is made under a slope. This work can only be done in the summer, as the concrete will not be strong if it is poured in the cold. The cement is mixed with the addition of a water-polymer emulsion (at the rate of 200 ml per 10 liters of concrete). Dried and already hardened foundation is coated bituminous mastic then hold for a week. It is advisable to build a primitive water seal that can eliminate unpleasant odors.

Features of the floor in the bath

It cannot be rigidly connected with the log house. The ends of the logs, on which the floor with slots is laid, lead into slots lower crown. It is desirable to make logs from "tar". The floor can be with slots or with a ladder. In the vestibule, it is always solid. For the floor, it is recommended to use a grooved board.

Logging up

It is placed sequentially, each crown is fixed with pins - round dowels (it is advisable to take oak ones). Through the log, through, down, a hole is drilled for fasteners at half the thickness of the previous one. They take it off. They put a caulk. Insert the dowel, piercing the caulk with it. String the top log on the dowel. Repeat in a checkerboard pattern.

Do not forget to take out a piece of log in those places where there should be openings for windows and doors on their upper side.

Caulking is laid between the logs in a stretch, and then the finished log house is caulked with a cord.

Residential buildings are insulated with synthetic waterproofing agents, but this is not suitable for a bath. Jute will replace traditional moss and hemp. It literally grows together with the tree and seals the room perfectly. This caulk is sold in sets (tape and cord).

Do not forget about the so-called technological break. The finished log house is sewn up on top with any auxiliary material up to cardboard, and covered with a film for drying and shrinkage. The process can take from six months to one and a half years. Only after the expiration of this period can construction continue.

Cutting openings for doors and windows

The openings are sawn down from the marks left with the obligatory control of the hydraulic level. Scraps will go to the ceiling and furniture. You can immediately make a pigtail doorway. Since the log house "walks" constantly, the usual door frame will not withstand changing loads. There is a special technology by which only vertical parts are fixed, which levels its deformation. To do this, a hole for the door is marked according to the hydraulic level or plumb line, the tree is removed according to the intended profile. The opening height should be more door by 5–7 cm, so that there is freedom for deformation. It is then recommended to lay this gap with tow, and then close it with a casing. The edges of the logs are hemmed so that the platbands can be fixed.

What should be the ceiling

It is recommended to stay on a false ceiling because of its strength and economy. This design consists of beams connected with a log house, which also serve as rafters. After the construction of the ceiling, it is caulked with jute, covered with roofing material and insulated with mineral wool.

Roof installation

The roof is double pitched. Rafters are mounted from a bar.

All work takes place in several steps:

1. First put B-pillars to the height of the pediment.
2. Then the ridge and rafters are mounted, light crate.
3. It has a cover on it. For a bath it is better to apply traditional materials for the roof, for example, metal tiles, corrugated board, galvanized iron, slate. Surprisingly, the most durable and stylish coating is shingles. But if earlier it was material for the poor, now everything is completely different.

Exterior and interior decoration

If the log house was correctly raised, it had a bottom time to shrink, then no interior decoration no walls needed.

Doors and windows

These parts can be bought or made independently (from grooved boards with dowels).

Installation must be carried out according to the following plan:

1. A door frame with a door is inserted into the finished pigtail.
2. It is adjusted, the vertical is adjusted according to the hydraulic level. Fixed with screws.
3. The upper slot is laid with tow, tucked around the perimeter of the door, if necessary, and platbands are mounted on both sides of the door.
4. Handles and locks are installed.

Bath furniture

Bath furniture is for a steam room (shelves) and a washing room with a dressing room (benches, table).

Shelves vary in width. It depends on personal preference, although there are some design traditions that allow you to calculate minimum size suitable for a person of average height and build. It is customary to increase the average size to comfortable.

The minimum distance from the shelves to the ceiling should be at least 110 cm. In such a bath, you will not overheat on the upper tier, while there will be enough space to sit or lie with your legs up. There are people who love to swing a broom very actively. Then it makes sense to leave at the top more space(up to 1.5 m). The lower tier is traditionally located no lower than 30 cm from the floor of the steam room.

It would be advisable to make the shelves not from pine, but from linden, since it has a lower thermal conductivity, and besides, it does not emit resin. The frame can be made of timber, then sheathed with prepared boards.

Even at the construction stage, it is necessary to use modern impregnating compounds that can withstand high temperature and humidity without harming human health. So you can protect the building from fungus and rot. Those that are suitable for ceilings cannot always be used to cover furniture.

There are many such products with water-repellent natural substances such as paraffin, wax, oil by manufacturers of varnishes and paints (Senezh, Empils, Rogneda, Dulux, Tikkurila, Nobel, Belinka, Teknos). They are divided into suitable for exterior walls, internal surfaces, to which a person does not touch the body (ceiling) and furniture.

Pyroprotective and antiseptic impregnation of logs is usually done at the timber processing plant, but it must be done again after construction.

The first application of compositions on furniture is carried out immediately after its manufacture on a dry and clean surface, or even before manufacture (on wooden blanks). The product must be evenly distributed with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Due to the thick consistency, the spray gun will not work.

How to build a stove in a sauna

For all sauna stoves, there is a single condition, the fulfillment of which is mandatory - lengthening the combustion channel so that the door is in the dressing room (firewood is put into it in that room).

You can put a metal furnace by buying it in ready-made, or lay down a brick one yourself (it is much better due to its slower heating and prolonged heat release). The most difficult thing in this case will be to competently remove the chimney through wooden roof, isolating it with special metal sheets and vermiculite.

Stones must be chosen as carefully as possible. They must have the following qualities:

• heat resistance (not destroyed by temperature changes);
• heat capacity (for a long time they give off heat);
• environmental friendliness (when heated, they do not emit harmful substances);
• uniformity and the same coefficient of thermal expansion (foreign inclusions with a different thermal expansion can explode when heated);
• round shape (it improves the circulation of hot air).

Stones must be:

• up to 13 cm for the first layer on the grate;
• up to 9 for the intermediate layer;
• up to 6 for the top layer.

If the heater is done correctly, then unforgettable steam moments await you.

Operation features

Only the steam room provides the healthiest and only correct ratio of humidity and heat. But even there there are extreme values. This is confirmed scientifically. The best feeling at a certain combination of humidity and temperature is graphically expressed by a homothermal curve. Below the first of the curves - optimal combination temperatures up to 90 ° and humidity up to 80%, which is provided by the Russian steam bath.

While in the steam room, the body is covered with hot moist air, especially when exposed to it with a broom, due to which everything warms up. In this case, there is a constant flow of oxygen to the tissues.

After being in the steam room, you need to plunge into the ice font.

Video: building a bath from a log

The love of a Russian person for a bath is passed down from generation to generation and is already embedded in the genes themselves. Many of us, while still quite children, took a steam bath in the bathhouse with our fathers and grandfathers, and, having matured, began to take our children into it. Love for this ancient tradition raises the question: how to build a bath with your own hands?

This process is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, since many nuances must be taken into account. However, if you follow the tips and tricks that will be discussed below, building a bath with your own hands will be very quick and easy.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to build a bath with your own hands, then it is best to start from the preparatory stage.

It includes the following steps:

• choice of a place for construction;
• design;
• choice of materials;
• budgeting;
• construction of a building;
• insulation and finishing;
• improvement.

Only by carefully working through each item, and thinking through everything to the smallest detail, you will succeed proper bath in which it will be pleasant to bathe. If you do not have such work experience, then the network already has finished projects that will save you from unnecessary headaches.

Bath building process

When preparatory stage will be completed and you will decide on the construction site, draw up a project and purchase all necessary materials for a bath with your own hands, it will be possible to begin the process of building a bath directly.

The construction of a bath begins with the foundation.

It consists of the following steps:

• building a foundation;
• walling;
• roof construction;
• laying the floor;
• warming;
• Finishing work.

The construction of the bath takes place strictly in this sequence, regardless of whether you want a frame or wooden bath, brick or timber. Let's dwell on each stage of construction in more detail and figure out how to properly build a bath.

Foundation construction

In the old days, a do-it-yourself bathhouse was erected on a foundation made of boulders laid at a shallow depth. Logs were installed on stone blocks. A wooden bathhouse on such a foundation can stand for more than one decade. In addition, laying stones does not require any special technology and knowledge, so you can do everything yourself.

An excellent alternative to the classics for a do-it-yourself bath will be an unburied monolithic foundation. According to the construction technique, it is a little more complicated than the previous one, however, there is nothing difficult in making it yourself. It will be a great solution no matter what type of soil we are building a bath on.

Walling

Answering the question of how to build a bath with our own hands, we approached the next stage, namely, the construction of walls. You can make walls from various materials, for example, brick or cinder block, however, I want to assure you that the best option will become a wooden beam. A do-it-yourself sauna built of wood not only looks very attractive, but also creates that unique atmosphere that is simply necessary for a pleasant pastime.

Wall arrangement scheme

If you do not know how to make walls from wooden beam, then do not despair, because there is nothing complicated in this. It is very easy to master it yourself, and from the available tools needed to build a bathhouse and erect walls, you will need a standard set of carpentry tools for woodworking.

Wooden baths, the construction of which begins with cutting materials into blanks, are very easy to build. At the same time, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for the construction of buildings from a wooden beam, so that the structure has sufficient rigidity and does not lead over time. To do this, after knocking down the bars, the building is covered with caulking tape.

Roofing

It is very easy to build a roof for a bath. There is no need to be too sophisticated and come up with something new. Regardless of what materials the walls were built from, the best solution would be a regular gable roof with simple truss trusses of a classic triangular shape.

If you would like to bathe both in summer and winter, it is recommended to make two dormer windows in the roof. They are necessary for airing the room after steam procedures in winter period time so that moisture does not accumulate in the bath.

floor laying

In order for the floor for the bath to turn out good with your own hands, it is necessary to provide a drain for water in it. The comfort of using a self-built bath and hygiene depend on this. To prevent water from stagnating, you can dig a small hole under the floor, and make small holes in the flooring through which water will drain.

The scheme of the device floor in the bath

So that the water does not stagnate and does not freeze in winter, it is recommended to fill the pit with expanded clay. This will avoid drafts and reduce the time and amount of fuel needed for kindling.

If we make a bath near sewer communications, then the drain system can be connected to them. This will be much better, since the water will be discharged to the outside, which will avoid too high humidity in the room and prevent the formation of fungus. In this case, before laying the floor, it is recommended to pour a concrete screed and only after that lay the flooring, which is best used as natural wood coniferous varieties, impregnated with a special antiseptic.

After building a house on their site, most land owners think about how to build a good steam room there. At the same time, the work is supposed to be done by hand, and the bath should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying such criteria is not so easy, but still possible.

It is hardly worth relying on other people's projects or ordering overly expensive individual building plans. In most cases, a small building is required that will meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.

The foundation is the basis of everything

For most autonomous buildings with little physical activity use the following types of foundations:

• poured concrete;
• support-columnar;
• on pile-screw supports;
• tape-block.

The simplest is the columnar base. It is used both for frame structures and for timber. It starts cheap frame bath built by hand.

Used for support cement blocks(cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a 2x2 m conditional grid. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m 2 bath with your own hands cheaply and in stages, as shown with us, you will need about 9 such supports. Each of them has 4 blocks.

Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and laying should be carried out according to the building hydraulic level. First you need to fill a layer of sand under the base and compact it. From this stage, it is possible to provide for the installation of a spillway.

When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the final cost less than the price of a strip foundation. However, for wetlands or for soil with high level groundwater this solution would be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save on self-assembly without the involvement of third-party specialists or equipment.

It will be cheap to build a bathhouse with your own hands on a strip foundation of blocks. Under a building of 12 m 2, an amount of 6,000 rubles will be needed, taking into account the fact that the laying is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce the cost.

For most types of foundation, care must be taken to have a sand cushion.

Actual building materials

When building walls for a cheap bath with your own hands (the video is on the site), you can use a large number of modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:

• wooden beam;
• wood concrete;
• the use of an insulated frame.

In our country, it is enough to use a beam 100 mm thick for the outer walls of the bath, which will be operated from late spring to late autumn. During the installation of the timber, it is necessary to install the dowels at least every 0.9-1.0 m. For a classic size of 12 m 2, it will be enough to stock up on 62 bars. Such a do-it-yourself bath will definitely come out cheaper than its larger counterparts.

In the process, interventional insulation is used. total amount of these materials will be about 25 ... 30 thousand rubles. If you take it all on wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save.

When building the cheapest arbolite bath with your own hands, you need to stock up on such an amount of material:

• about 20 bags of cement;
• a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
• sand 2.5-3.0 t;
• about 1 m 3 lumber;
• enough water.

When pouring a bath from sawdust material, each time 2-3 days are expected for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It should be noted that with this method, the maximum cost of building walls is unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.

When building walls from this material, it will take a lot of time to protect them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.

Construction from wood concrete

In addition to a cheap bath from a bar or wood concrete, you can build a frame structure with your own hands. In this case, it will need to be reliably insulated. For a calculated building of 12 m 2 of area, it is necessary to stock up on 3 m 3 of beams. Insulation will also need to be included in the estimate. In a lightweight version, 10 cm of thickness is enough. If during construction apply basalt wool, then the total cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this variety mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.

Floor arrangement

Any bathhouse built with your own hands cheaply and quickly will not do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired schemes tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.

• A sand cushion of 150 mm is preliminarily arranged, which can be poured and rammed for better laying.
• Base surface then there is a concrete pour of 70-80 mm.
• top layer a mesh rail protrudes, knocked down into a rigid frame. This flooring can be moved and laid at your own discretion.

After every visit wooden frames from the floor it is desirable to dry and ventilate outside the walls of the steam room.

The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.

Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bath, you need to make a drain and take it to the sewer to the street. For the absence of smell, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water seals.

Ceiling work

When working with the ceiling, it is necessary to adhere to certain tricks, only then will it be possible to build a bath with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. It is impossible to use an excessively thin lining to cover the ceiling, this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and dampens. It is necessary to take boards of about 30 mm thickness, which will save on insulation.

Scheme of a quality ceiling

In the old days, a composition of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand even today, when it is necessary to build a bath with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Instead of leaves, sawdust is suitable.

For a project of 12 m 2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling the insulation with outside be sure to lay a layer of glassine.

On the shed roof it will take about 0.7 m 3 of wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leaking.

VIDEO: Sauna for a summer residence - very fast and very cheap

It is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without an indispensable attribute - a hot bathhouse that raises vitality aromas of birch broom and eucalyptus steam. Bath procedures cure many diseases, relieve stress and provide an opportunity to spiritually communicate with loved ones. So, whatever one may say, one cannot do without it, dear. The topic of our study is a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos, important nuances and the invaluable experience of practitioners - all this is in this material.

Read in the article

What is the basis for choosing the optimal place for the construction of a bath

Perhaps for someone it will be news that the bath can not be placed anywhere. There are many official and practical principles which should be adhered to. Moreover, the wrong choice of location can lead to sad consequences. Let's look at all the rules.

The location of the bath at their summer cottage

In the layout of the location of the bath complex on garden plot there are three main requirements:

Distance from the boundary of the plot	The distance from the bath complex to - at least three meters. The building should not obscure the territory of the neighboring site. Such a gap will protect the buildings from a possible fire, because the bath is a fire hazardous object. Another important aspect is drainage. A three-meter zone, even if your bath has the most primitive drainage system, will not allow dirty water penetrate into the adjacent area. For reliability, you can lay along the fence filled with gravel. And a couple more significant points: the distance to the neighbors' residential building should be at least eight meters (six - if the bath is brick). When deciding where to build an object, keep in mind that smoke from sauna stove should not reach the windows of a neighbor's house.
Distance to the reservoir	On the one hand, the location of the building on the banks of a river or lake is very advantageous. And it is easier to get water, and pleasure is guaranteed after a steam room with a running start to dive into the cool waves. On the other hand, one should strictly follow the rules that keep the reservoir from negative impact Wastewater. To do this, the building should be located no closer than 15 meters from the shore. This distance, moreover, will protect the foundation of the structure from being washed away in the flood. The coastline should be strengthened with your own hands using wooden or concrete frames.
Gap to residential building	The Russian bath on the "black" is located on the leeward side of the house at a distance of at least twelve meters. So smoke will not enter the rooms. It is desirable that there are no other flammable structures near the building. Experts recommend keeping a four-meter distance to or barn.

Take note:

There are situations when, with the purchase of a summer cottage, a bathhouse gets, as they say, by inheritance. In this case, of course, it is not always possible to move it to a new location in accordance with the above rules. But, with the help of competent reconstruction, fire safety standards can be achieved.

How to attach a bath to the house without damaging the main structure

Not always the size of the site allows you to meet all of the above requirements. There is only one way out - to attach a bath complex directly to the house. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of such a solution:

• land area savings;
• in winter, it is more convenient to use a home bath, since there is no need to go outside;
• you can save a lot on the insulation of the structure, since one wall will be internal;
• can be used common system heating and water supply.

• there may be difficulties with connecting the building. Special measures will be required when building a foundation and connecting wall planes;
• combining the drainage system can lead to an excessive load on the local sewer;
• the fire hazard of the object poses a certain threat to a residential building.

But it should be noted that it is easy to slip on the tile, and in the steam room the ceramics heat up quickly, so you can’t enter it barefoot.

It remains to solve the issue of water supply. In a separate building, it is better to conduct water supply underground, in a protected housing. If your area has severe winters, it is worth considering heating the water supply to prevent emergencies. How to install such a system, photo reports will tell you, which are not difficult to find on the net.

Article

Many landowners prefer to have on their suburban areas your bath. Dimensions, interior layout baths are a purely individual matter, especially since on several acres, when each is expensive square meter, hardly anyone will build a massive structure.

If it is meant inexpensively, and even with your own hands, then the choice of options for building a bath is not so big. What kind of bath is more expedient to build in the country, what to take into account and provide for - this is described in the article.

When it comes to erecting a building on suburban area, in various instructions, recommendations and advice, a very important issue is most often overlooked - the specifics of the operation of the facility. In other words, whether the cottage is a place of permanent (year-round) residence, or the owners come to the site only during the season. In the first case, one should speak of a full-fledged country house. And he, and all other structures (including the bath), must be built capitally. Expensive or cheap is another question.

Firstly, it is hardly worth counting on the fact that it will be possible to come to the dacha to take a steam bath in the winter. main reason- drifts on the roads. If you can still drive up to the massif itself, then getting along the lanes to your own dacha is quite problematic.

Secondly, it is necessary to take into account how long it will take to melt the bathhouse. For the bulk of summer residents, it is needed on the site only when the owners work or rest on it. And going out of town for the whole day just to take a steam bath for an hour is a dubious pleasure.

Thirdly, the idea of ​​building a bath comes, as a rule, 2-3 years after the development of the site, when everything has already been planned and equipped, including plantings. Or if it is not available at the acquired dacha. It is unlikely that anyone will want to deploy large-scale construction on the inhabited territory.

Therefore, before understanding “how to build” and “inexpensive”, you should find out what materials and technologies can be considered optimal for summer bath in the country. This information will be much more useful than " step-by-step instruction”, moreover, it is not a fact that this option will be chosen by the reader.

Wood

Log or beam (in any modification) - the best solution. The cost of materials cannot be called high, a “heavy” foundation will not be needed, in terms of “environmental cleanliness” and the effectiveness of procedures - no complaints. But there is one "but".

Bath (in the country or another place) - a specific structure. One of the main requirements for it is maximum thermal insulation. Building a quality log house with your own hands, no matter what the various instructions say, is a rather complicated matter. How to make connections of blanks “in a paw”, “in a clasp” or in another way, is simple and understandable only on paper. But in practice, rarely anyone will be able to build a good bathhouse from a log or timber. Here, cheap - only materials, but the services of a professional are expensive.

Cellular concrete

Such construction is considered budgetary. But is everything so simple? Gas silicate intensively absorbs moisture. The stone itself is inexpensive, but finishing the bath (primarily waterproofing) will cost a lot. It's the same with foam concrete. In addition, the blocks are "planted" on the mortar, so you need a concrete mixer with all the accompanying "charms" - heaps of sand, gravel, bags of cement and dirt in the country.

Is it worth it to organize a full-scale construction, if most of the garden plots are just small light houses? In any case, it is also quite difficult to call such a bath cheap, if we are talking specifically about the summer version.

A brick bath should not be considered - this definitely will not work either “with your own hands” (a complex matter that requires professionalism) and “inexpensive”. The most acceptable solution for a summer residence is a bathhouse built according to frame technology. Here we will deal with the features of its construction.

Frame bath in the country

Dimensions

Given the fact that there is not too much free space in the country, you will have to be content with a small building. There is another reason that limits the size of the bath. By definition, it is a fire hazardous object, therefore it is being built at a distance from residential buildings (as its own country house, and neighbors), as well as fences and roads - at least 15 m. But this is in theory. In practice, you just need to clarify what are the restrictions in relation to your summer cottage. Perhaps local conditions are more “soft”.

But it’s definitely not necessary to talk about a massive structure with several rooms. For giving optimal dimensions baths will be 3.5 x 3.5 or 3 x 4 m. It is quite enough to divide the building into 3 rooms (dressing room, steam room and washing room), and it will come out really inexpensive.

Foundation

For a small bath in the country, the best solution is a pile-grillage base. Firstly, you can install screw supports with your own hands. It will take only one assistant so that the pile does not go sideways during installation. Secondly, it is easy to build up such supports with additional “knees”. Therefore, groundwater, freezing depth are not the determining criteria when choosing the type of foundation. pile foundation suitable for almost any terrain. The main thing is to correctly calculate the installation depth of the supports. Thirdly, there is no need for any earthworks, which is important for an equipped suburban area.

There are other inexpensive options - installing a bath on sleepers, stones and the like - but this is hardly good decision. The probability of heaving of the soil cannot be discounted, so such a bath will have to be constantly reconstructed.

Is it possible to do without grillage?

For a bath, no. And that's why. If the wind is blowing under the building, then the floors will be constantly cold. This means that it is necessary to think about their maximum insulation, and this will lead to an increase in the cost of construction.

frame

Since we are talking about a small-sized bathhouse, it is not difficult to assemble the “skeleton” by installing a beam in the corners. The best option, in which it will not be difficult to make strapping, sheathing and carry out all other finishing activities with your own hands.

The main stages of the construction of the bath

Territory marking and foundation

What to consider:

• Piles are screwed into the ground at the corners, as well as at the junction points internal walls to the outside. Depending on their length, additional supports are placed, with an interval of about 2 m. If the soil is soft, pipes can be driven in, pouring concrete mortar into them for strength. It remains only to align them on top in a horizontal plane and weld the heads.
• The root system of the majority weeds develops at a depth of up to 150 mm. Therefore, it will be necessary to excavate the soil in the outlined rectangle (square) in order to prevent the germination of weeds under the bath. The layer thickness is about 30 cm. Why, it will become clear later.
• To prevent the appearance of groundwater in this area, the soil should be compacted and poured with oily clay, which is also rammed. The result is a primary layer of waterproofing.
• Next - p / e film, thickened (the cheapest insulating material).
• Above - backfill of expanded clay (10 cm is enough). It will provide additional warming of the “bottom” of the bath, so the effect of cold coming from the ground will be practically leveled.
• Experienced builders recommend making a cement screed. But this is already, given that it is not a residential building that is being built, but a bathhouse - at the discretion of the owner.

Bath frame assembly

Its elements must be attached to something. Therefore, the binding of piles is preliminarily done. For the base frame, it is better to purchase used sleepers. This is already prepared (impregnated) material, which can be bought either at the railway station or at a specialized enterprise, from the so-called substandard.

Another option is to purchase a bar. The blanks have correct geometry, it is not difficult to fasten them together with your own hands (staples, plates, corners). It remains only to impregnate with special means (antiseptic + flame retardant) and dry. In practice, it is enough to do the treatment with engine oil (used), in some cases, and coat it with liquid tar.

Installing vertical poles from the same timber is also not a problem. The binding is done with slats.

Structural sheathing

The most inexpensive options are board or multilayer plywood (FC or FSF). Such sheets are cheap, and given the fact that they are characterized by high moisture resistance, they are quite suitable for a bath.

Everything else concerns internal arrangement. Here everyone has their own decision.

• For a country bath best option roofs - flat (one-pitched). It hardly makes sense to build truss system, if any site already has a utility room for storage garden tools. Flat roof- this is the cheapest option.
• For a country bath, it is advisable to choose a small heater. Such (to the question of "inexpensive"). And there will be no problems with fuel.
• When choosing a bar, you should focus on larch. Given the specifics of the structure, especially excess moisture, it is better suited than other breeds. When wet, this tree only gains strength, which is required in terms of the durability of the structure.
• It is rather difficult to insulate a frame bath, as there will definitely be gaps. Therefore, since all the decoration is done by hand, it is advisable to focus on a heater with a reflective surface. For example, "Penofol" (also inexpensive). Given the small dimensions of the country bath, a thickness of 10 - 12 mm is quite enough. Pay attention - the material is laid with foil inside the room!

Perhaps the information given is enough to understand which version of the bath for giving is better.

Many specialized firms are positioning themselves as an inexpensive bath for giving prefabricated structures houses that are delivered to the site and installed on a pre-prepared foundation. The starting price is about 105,000 rubles (2.5 x 4). Seems to be inexpensive. But this does not take into account several points.

Firstly, will heavy equipment be able to drive through country lanes?

Secondly, will the outreach of the crane boom be sufficient to install the bath in the place chosen for it?

Thirdly, such houses have only a rough finish. Consequently, the issues of insulation, purchase and installation of the stove, laying communications and a number of others will have to be addressed separately. And this is an additional cost.

Therefore, it is unlikely that such an option belongs to the category of "inexpensive". It is easier to build in the country frame house under the bath with their own hands.