Making a straight and corner sideboard from wood with your own hands: step by step instructions. Wooden sideboard: choice of wood, tools and materials

Knotty, but beautiful. Why did I choose alder

Made from pine wood, this sideboard would look just as good, but the salesperson showed me a stack of alder planks (thank you for that!). The price of this soft hardwood is about the same as pine, but it does not contain the resin that is common in softwoods. It is easily processed without burns, moss or splinters, perfectly accepts the finish, absorbing the stain evenly, without stains. But most of the boards in the stack were top-notch, no knots, and they looked too uniform, so I had to work hard to select more expressive material with knots.

Unlike the pine boards, which are often 300 mm wide, the alder boards were narrower, and I could not find any wider than 150 mm, so several boards had to be glued together for the wide parts of this sideboard.

John Olson, designer

All wood swells by absorbing moisture from the air during the hot summer months and shrinks in the winter when the air is dry. These seasonal fluctuations are inevitable, and in order to avoid cracking, we orientated the boards in this project so that they expand and contract equally without interfering with each other. For example, the wood fibers of the central shelves are oriented in the same way as in the adjoining cabinet walls. Where the grain directions are perpendicular, for example, back wall planks having overlapping seams (which are traditionally used for so-called quarter planking) are only screwed at one edge so that the wood can change its dimensions without gaps appearing between the planks. .

Let's start with the body

1. Glue panel blanks for walls from alder (or pine) boards BUT, top and bottom shelves AT, medium shelves With and partitions D. Read the "Master's Tip" and the "Secrets of Gluing Even Shields" section below. When the glue dries, file the blanks to the final width, leaving an allowance of about 25 mm in length.

Both wood surfaces need to be perfectly straight for a strong bond, and if you don't have a planer, try this method. Take a strip of good plywood and attach it with clamps to the board, aligning the straight factory edge along the edge with an indent of about 1.5 mm (a photo). Insert a copy cutter with blades at least 25 mm long into the router collet. While pressing the cutter bearing against the plywood, remove the allowance on the edge of the board. This method is especially good for planing long boards, which are inconvenient to process on the machine.

Secrets of gluing even shields

Until the glue becomes tacky, it acts as a lubricant as it begins to set, and the edges of the boards being glued can move when you tighten the clamps. Hold-down bars across the backboard help keep the boards level, but they become less effective in the middle of wide backboards. To create a slight bulge to evenly distribute pressure along the entire length of the bar, stick a small piece of masking tape in the middle of the edge as shown. Add new strips of tape on top, aligning them in the middle and gradually increasing their length until you reach almost the ends of the bar. An additional benefit: the adhesive tape will prevent the bar from sticking to the boards of the shield. This project required four 300mm long pressure bars.

2. Cut out four 19x64x407mm strips of plywood and assemble the slot milling jig (photo A). Use it to give the side walls BUT, shelves B, C and partition D final length (photo B).

Clamp the four parts of the fixture at right angles to wall A, inserting one or two alder pieces between the guide strips, and then glue all the strips together.

Attach the jig to parts A, B and C and give them the final length of a circular saw with a fine saw blade.

3. Mark the grooves on the top and bottom shelves AT and partition D (Fig. 1 and photo C). Align one edge of the milling fixture with the marking line, fix with clamps and cut a groove 3 mm deep (a photoD).

Mark the grooves on the top and bottom shelves at the same time so that there are no problems during assembly.

Slide a 12mm or 16mm short-bladed burr along one guide bar and back to the start on the other side.

4. Finish sanding the shelves B, C and partition D sandpaper No. 220. Glue the partition to the upper and lower shelves, setting the pressure bars to the floor of the clamp sponge, and make sure the assembly is square. Once the glue is dry, glue one of the middle shelves in place. C (photo E). Once dry, add a second middle shelf. Mill 3 mm fillets on the front edges of the parts.

For easier assembly of B/C/D center pieces, add and fix pieces one at a time to ensure squareness.

Align wall A close to partition D and mark the position of the lower and middle shelves.

5. Mark out the position of the top shelf AT on the side walls A (Fig. 1). Then mark the location of the groove for the bottom and middle shelves (a photoF). Mill 3 mm deep grooves in the side walls using the same tool as previously used.

Fix the drilling jig flush with the top of wall A, pressing it firmly against the edge, and drill 6x10mm holes. Do the same for the other edge.

6. To make a drilling jig, cut out a strip of 50 × 813 mm from 6 mm plywood and draw a center line along the entire length. Stepping back 203 mm from one of the ends, mark the centers of 14 holes at intervals of 38 mm. Drill 6mm holes at each of these points. Using this template, make rows of holes for the shelf supports on the four inner sides of the side walls. (a photoG, rice. one). A special centering drill will help control the depth and accuracy of centering the holes.

7. Saw short bars E (Fig. 1) and make oblique pocket holes at both ends of these parts. Finish sanding the inside of the side walls BUT and short bars. Glue and fasten the two walls and four crossbars with screws. Be careful - the upper ends of the walls should be on top so that the holes for the shelf supports are at the same level. Repeat the operation with another set of parts BUT and E.

8. Glue one of the side cases A/E to the central assembly B/C/D (photo H). When the glue dries, attach the second body on the other side.

9. Cut out the back rail F, adjusting its length to the distance between the two bodies A/E. Attach it in place with the screws in the oblique pocket holes, lining up with the top and back of the cases. (Fig. 1).

Add a back wall and front frame

1. Cut out the planks G for the back wall ("List of materials", rice. 2).

Adjust the overhang of the cutter and cut the folds along both edges of each G plank on opposite sides.

For assembly, you need three pressure bars and six long clamps. Make sure the shelves are fully inserted into the slots and aligned with the front edge of wall A.

2. Mill 10 mm wide and 10 mm deep seams along both edges of each plank G but from different angles (Fig. 2a, photo I), so that the crest of one plank overlaps the fold of the next. Then, on the inside of each plank, mill a 3mm ledge rounding (the so-called “nail”) (Fig. 2a and a photoJ). Finish sanding the inside of all planks with #220 sandpaper.

To embellish one edge of each plank with a narrow nail profile, simply adjust the 3mm radius cutter to create a slight ledge.

After installing the facade frame, the internal surfaces will be less accessible, so it is advisable to start finishing them now.

3. Apply painter's tape to the front edges of the hulls A-E, to which the facade frame will then be attached (photo K), and apply a top coat to the inside surfaces of the cabinet and the inside sides and edges of the backplates G. We first applied a generous amount of linseed oil to bring out the texture, wiped off the excess and dried for 12 hours. Then three coats of shellac polish were applied, slightly diluted with denatured alcohol to make it easier to work with a brush. Intermediate grinding after drying was done with sandpaper No. 320.

4. Remove masking tape. Cut out the top and bottom rails H, I and racks J. Glue the bottom rail in place (Fig. 2) and secure with clamps.

5. On one edge of each rack J mill a 10 mm ledge fillet (“nail”) (Fig. 2b). Glue the racks to the body (a photoL) close to the bottom bar and secure.

After aligning the profiled edge of the J-pillar with the outside of wall A, glue the part in place and press it with clamps.

Using a square, align the first bar G flush with the bulkhead D. Secure only one of its edges with 4.2x32mm screws.

6. Glue the top rail in place H pushing her against the racks J.

Place marks on the G planks that protrude from the sides, and then file them to the final width.

7. When the glue dries, turn the body upside down and attach the back straps G screws (Fig. 2, 2a, photo M), starting from the center. Even out the gaps between the planks with a couple of small coins.

8. The extreme strips at the ends of the body will protrude beyond the walls BUT. Mark their width and file (a photoN), before fixing with screws.

Making shelves and doors

1. Glue the panel blanks and cut out six shelves from them To the indicated sizes. Set them aside.

2. Cut the boards L for doors (Fig. 3). Mill a 3mm ledge (“nail”) along one edge of the two boards.

3. Glue the boards L in pairs, placing the milled edge in the center.

4. Put down the case A-J on the workbench with the front side up. using shelves To in the role of supports, insert the doors into the openings of the body and adjust their dimensions (photo O).

Insert the doors into the openings and make sure that the gaps around the perimeter are the same. Adjust the doors if necessary. Mark the position of the hinges and drill holes for the screws.

5. Position the hinges 76mm from the top of the doors (photo O, fig. 2) and drill pilot holes for the screws. Then also prepare places for the installation of constipation. Temporarily set the hinges and locks aside.

6. Cut out the cross braces M and mill 10mm fillets on both ends and edges on one side. Drill 4mm holes and countersink them (Fig. 3).(The oversized holes will allow the screws to mix slightly as the boards swell and shrink.) Secure the ties with the screws to the back of the doors without gluing them.

Now up and down

1. Cut out the longitudinal strips N and spacers O for top and bottom frames (Fig. 2). Glue the strips N to spacers O front and back, aligning the ends.

2. Mill a 12 mm radius fillet along the front edge and ends of both frames N/O (Fig. 2).Brief advice! To avoid chipping when milling across the grain, always clamp down on the workpiece where the pass ends with an unnecessary piece of trim that will support the fibers and prevent them from splitting.

3. Glue the top and bottom frames N/O to the body A-J, aligning but the center, and additionally secure with screws (photo P, fig. 2).

After applying glue to the N/0 frames, align them with the back of the cabinet, press down with clamps and secure with countersunk screws.

Align cover P to the center of the upper frame and secure with clamps. Fasten the part with screws by screwing them from below through the top frame. Do not use glue.

4. Glue the panel blank and cut out the cover from it P (Fig. 2). Mill roundings around the entire perimeter on both sides.

5. For fixing the cover R drill into the top frame N/O holes and countersink from below (a photoQ). Fasten the cover with screws (Fig. 2).

Completion

1. Apply a finishing coat to all surfaces that have not been previously finished.

2. Install doors with hinges and locks. Congratulations, you've completed the project!

Description of the manufacture of a sideboard and a pencil case for the kitchen.
After the manufacture of cabinet cases, we will hang
doors and install drawers.
Cabinet cabinets in the kitchen are convenient because you always
you can move, rearrange or even move them
and install in any other room.

This is a continuation of the job description, beginning in the article.
Drawers and doors are installed in the lower cupboards of the cabinets. Upper
buffet doors are glazed. It was also planned to do the top
a large pencil case door, but in the end I made a paneled one.

The doors are assembled on flat spikes, in the same way you can make
doors on round plug-in spikes (dowels), or apply a special
double cutter for doors. All doors are made of bars 60 mm wide.
and 20 mm thick. .

The dimensions of the upper cupboard doors are 800 mm high. , width 500 mm. ,
just three pieces.

The top door of a case height is 1150 mm. , width 500 mm. , one piece.

The lower doors of the sideboard and the pencil case are 550 mm high. , width 500 mm. ,
four pieces.

Drawer fronts height 200 mm. , width 500 mm. , four pieces.
On the facades of the drawers there are vertical strapping bars 60 mm wide. , and horizontal
40 mm wide. . This is done to increase the height of the panel.

Here the dimensions of the doors without taking into account the gaps between them, the gaps can be 2-3 mm. .
The doors are made in the form of wooden frames with plywood panels. How can
I already wrote in the article to make such doors.

Marking and installation of doors.

Before proceeding with the installation of doors and drawers, we need to mark
and install internal vertical partitions in the pedestal and top
cupboard cupboard. There are two options, the first is to install internal
partitions at an equal distance from each other. It's good for making
drawers, they will be exactly the same. But not very cool
to install three external doors, it may be difficult to set up
gaps.

The second marking method is when the cabinet is divided in width into two parts of 1000 mm.
and 500 mm. In this case, the right inner partition is installed at a distance
960 mm. from the left side of the cabinet, and the left internal partition is marked
in the center of the resulting opening.

The two left sideboard doors are installed in the usual way, on furniture hinges.
Since the wall thickness is 20 mm. , then marking the centers of drilling sockets for hinges
from the top and bottom edges by 100 mm. , and from the side edge 26 mm. . Diameter
drills (Fostner drill) 35 mm. , the depth of the socket for the hinge is 12 mm. . At work
Care must be taken that the center of the drill does not come out.

To install the right sideboard doors, I glued a bar on the right partition
60 mm wide. and 20 mm thick. . The length of the bar for the top cabinet is 760 mm. .

Bar for a curbstone 540 mm long. . The bar in the cabinet is shortened so that it does not interfere
installation of boxes, but at the same time, the upper end of the bar was closed with the front bar of the box.

It is better to install the large upper door of the pencil case on three hinges. To door
did not cling to the cabinet; it must be shortened by 3-4 mm from the bottom.

Marking and installation of boxes.

In the lower cupboard of the sideboard and the pencil case, it is first more convenient to install drawers,
and then doors. The boxes are assembled from wooden planks 150-160 mm wide. ,
bottom made of 4 mm plywood. . I wrote about making boxes in an article.
The principle is the same, only you need to accurately calculate the dimensions.

Depth of drawers up to 370 mm. , you can do less but it won’t work anymore, the box will rest
into the back wall. Drawers are mounted on roller or telescopic
guides, in this case on roller ones. We calculate the width of the boxes as follows:
We measure the opening between the vertical partitions with a metal ruler
or cabinet walls. From the resulting size we subtract two thicknesses of the guides
plus one millimeter.
For example, for a drawer in a pencil case, the opening is 460 mm. , subtract 12+12+1 mm. ,
total you need to make boxes 435 mm wide. .

The markings for the drawer guides can be done as follows: We measure on the inside
side of the walls and partitions of the pedestal 160 mm. down from the table top. With the help of a square
draw a line with a pencil into the depth of the cabinet. Take the outer half of the guide
and apply to the wall so that the middle of the holes coincides with the line.
Well, then we mark two adjustable oval holes and screw them in
screws 15-16 mm long. . We install the internal parts of the guides on the lower
the edges of the box, we also fasten it to screws or self-tapping screws. Pushing the box inside
case, if the dimensions are exactly the same, then the box will immediately walk freely
without jamming and without falling through.

We attach facades to the boxes, the gaps from the top of the countertop are 2-3 mm. . We mark the facades
at the installation site and fasten from the inside of the box with self-tapping screws, you can use
white with flat caps. Standard bolts for installing handles are rated
for a facade thickness of 16-18 mm. , here the total thickness of the front wall of the boxes
obtained from 36 mm. up to 40 mm. depending on the thickness of the parts.
Therefore, to install the handles, the hole for the bolts is drilled only
on the façade. On the front wall of the box itself, you can drill
perk hole 20 mm. to be able to install and
tighten the handle bolts.

At the top of the cabinets there is a common cornice. The cornice is a matter of taste, you can make it
in different ways, or not at all. True solid wood cabinets without eaves
looks a little sloppy, like unfinished. The cornice in the photo is the simplest. I took the board
1950 mm long. , 230 mm wide. , 20 mm thick. and sawed out with a jigsaw the upper curly
edge. The markup is arbitrary, but symmetrical from the center.

This is one of the modern options for painting a finished cupboard.

On the central ledge, I glued another figured bar 35 mm wide from above. and thickness
also 20 mm. . A wide profile was passed along the upper edge with a manual milling cutter.
On the reverse side of the eaves, I glued a 40/40 mm bar. 1950 mm long. ,
along the bottom edge. Through this bar on self-tapping screws fixed the cornice
to the top cabinets. Additionally, you can also make end parts
eaves. How it might look in the interior, photo in the gallery.

In the upper cupboards of the sideboard, one shelf is installed on shelf holders.
Shelves can be made from carpentry board with a thickness of 16-20 mm. , or from
plywood 12 mm thick. . There are two shelves in the top cabinet. Certainly
The number of shelves may vary. As for the pedestals, here
necessary, you can make shelves, or you can not do it, it depends on
what are you going to put there.
Continuation of the topic, article, making curly layouts
for glazed cupboard doors.

What is a buffet? In the old days, this was the name of small rooms near the kitchen, where the products were located. Today it is a kind of cabinet with shelves for storing beautiful clay pots, painted dishes, wine glasses and other decorative kitchen utensils. All these details “domesticate” the interior, bring a touch of comfort, warmth and originality into it. Therefore, we decided to devote our article to buffets.

What are kitchen buffets

In the classical sense, a sideboard is a rather massive closed cabinet located on the floor, and a cabinet with glass doors is placed on top of it.

However, here it is necessary to clarify that the doors can be of two types:

• Completely transparent, putting on public display all the kitchen utensils, which are neatly arranged on the shelves;

• With a small transparent window, through which only part of the entire contents of the buffet is visible.

There can also be an open countertop between the top and bottom. Most often, frequently used items, vases with fruits or flowers, all kinds of figurines are put on it.

The shape and size of the buffet can also be divided into several types. But the most optimal of them is a two- or three-door cabinet with a glass showcase. A lot of convenient drawers, shelves, plus an open showcase - very functional.

Advice!
Large kitchen utensils (pans, jugs, pots, wide dishes) and even small household appliances (steamer, blender, bread machine) will fit into the lower closed cabinet.
And in the upper showcase you can put decorative items, for example, an expensive tea set.

True, such a sideboard requires quite a lot of space, so it is hardly suitable for small kitchens. The approximate dimensions of this beauty are as follows: width from 120 to 200 cm, height about 200 cm, and depth about 45 cm.

However, there are more modest buffets, they are already lower and not so deep. You can also compactly and harmoniously fit the corner sideboard model. It has a semicircular shape and fits perfectly into a corner, without interfering with free movement around the kitchen.

Where is the best place to put a buffet

Here is a small instruction or rather recommendations on this subject from professional designers:

• If your kitchen is spacious, then the dining buffet will look harmoniously near the dining area near the table or opposite the entrance to the kitchen. In this case, the guests' attention will immediately fall on an original sideboard with beautiful dishes or other decorations.
• If you have a separate dining room, then, of course, it is better to place a large buffet there.

• For studio apartments, the so-called bar-buffet is suitable. It can become a kind of space delimiter. With it, you can successfully divide the room into a cooking zone and a living room. In addition, with such furniture during the cooking process, you will not have to break away from the conversation, and cooked dishes and drinks can be passed directly through the buffet.

• But even if you have an apartment with a small kitchen space, you don’t need to deny yourself the pleasure and put such beauty. You can “fill” a non-functional niche in the wall or a dead “dead corner” with a sideboard, as you can see in the photo below.

How to fit a sideboard into the overall kitchen interior

Of course, the most popular models are the traditional "old-fashioned" sideboards, made of noble woods with stunning engravings, carvings and balustrades on the facades, cornices, plinth. Such models have an aristocratic look and are perfect for.

For a country-style kitchen, it is better to choose a rustic sideboard made of raw wood, without elegant finishes, with numerous drawers, lockable cabinets, or curtained with a small flowered fabric. But the Provence style will approve white sideboards with open shelves.

As for modern kitchen interiors, there are suitable models for them. Laconic forms and rigor - that's what is typical for buffets of our time. And, it should be noted, they are made not only from wood, but also from plastic, acrylic, frosted glass, decorations achieved by new technologies.

sideboard decoration

Probably, many will agree that the new furniture looks perfect, but, alas, the price of it is not at all encouraging. If you suddenly inherited your grandmother's buffet sideboard - consider yourself lucky! After all, as you know, earlier furniture was made for business, with the expectation of long-term operation. And you can bring it to the proper, and most importantly, the look you need, on your own, without spending a lot of money on it.

Five ideas for decorating old furniture

We offer you some interesting options for altering kitchen furniture.

Even at home, a do-it-yourself kitchen sideboard can be turned, it would seem, from dilapidated furniture into a real interior decoration!

• Coloring with . Old wooden or painted surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dust, washed with warm water and detergent and dried. Next, light sanding with fine-grained sandpaper is required. If there are gaps on the furniture, then we overwrite them with a special wood putty.
  An already dried surface must be re-treated with sandpaper (only medium-grained). This is followed by a primer with universal paint and light sanding.

Then it is necessary to apply the selected paint in two layers. The cabinets in the photo above are painted white, and some of the doors have been replaced with new glass ones. Also selected new metal fittings. Complements the overall composition of beautiful dishes.

Attention!
Instead of replacing the doors, you can put a beautiful ornament on the old doors.

• Decoupage technique. Here you only need special napkins or a drawing pre-printed on a printer, scissors, brushes, glue and acrylic. A little imagination and effort - you get a really original and spectacular thing!

• In this version, the cabinets are painted in a delicate light green color, and a colored stencil is applied to the doors. You can experiment with any shades!

• Bright furniture! All with paint, new fittings and charming curtains. Perhaps you will like this option.

• Black and white contrast furniture. Quite an interesting solution for modern kitchen interiors in the style of hi-tech, art deco, minimalism or modern. And all unnecessary decorations from lockers in the form of carvings and balustrades can always be removed.

Finally

Do not limit your imagination, and in no case think that beautiful furniture with amazing decor can only be bought in a store for big money. You just need to “conjure” a little over the old sideboard and give it a ticket to a new life! Therefore, we wish you creative success and the implementation of new ideas. And the video in this article will certainly help you with this.

A sideboard is a closet with shelves and a closed lower compartment, which is designed to store dishes, groceries and all sorts of household trifles. The upper part is open and glazed. Chipboard is used in factories for production, but it is best to make a sideboard with your own hands from natural wood.

First of all, you need to choose what kind of wood to make it from. Then borrow or draw a drawing yourself. And then start making. For convenience, in the article we will consider the direct and angular configuration of the sideboard. The methods are radically different and for each there is a detailed instruction.

Tree selection

Breeds for the manufacture of furniture are divided into three categories:

• soft: spruce, pine, alder, linden, aspen;
• solid: oak, ash, walnut, beech, larch, birch;
• extra hard: acacia, boxwood, yew.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of some types of wood.

Pine

The structure of this tree is soft, so it is easy to cut, saw, process with a planer, glue and paint. Pine staunchly withstands conditions of high humidity. Furniture made from it exudes a subtle coniferous smell and phytoncides that destroy harmful microorganisms in the kitchen atmosphere.

Unfortunately, pine is prone to scratches and chips with a slight mechanical impact on its surface. The service life of pine furniture can be a couple of decades. In hot conditions, wood releases resin, which can significantly spoil the appearance of the cabinet.

Pine boards and saw cut trunk

Oak

The most expensive and durable type of hardwood. The saw cut can have a light or yellow-brown color. An oak sideboard will decorate the most sophisticated interior. The surface of the furniture is varnished to emphasize the beauty of the wood structure.

Pull the boards with clamps until the glue dries completely. In the side posts and door panels, cut out the hinge seats with a chisel or router. Hang the doors by screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. Treat all surfaces with stain and cover with furniture varnish.

Install the finished cabinet on a cabinet or wall table.

Instructions for making a corner sideboard

The corner of the room often remains empty. With a shortage of usable space in the kitchen or living room, a corner cabinet will contribute to greater freedom.

Prepare your tools. In principle, the list is the same as described in the previous case, only we do not need clamps.

Pick up the following materials:

• boards 290 mm wide and 12 mm thick;
• plywood 8 mm thick;
• dowels - wooden dowels;
• wood glue;
• stain;
• furniture or water-soluble varnish;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture handles and hinges;
• ruler, tape measure, pencil or marker;
• sandpaper.

Specification

All parts are marked in the pictures with numbers in red circles:

1. Back wall 1 pc. - (No. 1) 183 cm.
2. Trapezoidal shelves 6 pcs. – (#2) 77.5 cm front. The sides are cut at a 45° angle from the straight sides (see illustration)
3. Front side bar 2 pcs. - (No. 3) 183 cm.
4. Side walls made of plywood 2 pcs. – (#4) 41.3 cm. x 183 cm.
5. Upper and lower cornice 2 pcs. - (No. 5) 67 cm.
6. Tabletop cornice 1 pc. - (No. 6) 67 cm.
7. Upper molding 1pc. - 90 cm.

Boards with a length of 1830 mm pass through the gage. Mark and cut 2 boards with a circular saw into six trapezoid shelves. Shelves will be obtained with a small base with a width of 1950 mm and a wide side - 775 mm.

Shelf board layout

Dissolve one board with a circular saw into two strips 60 mm wide, from the other lamella make a canvas for the back wall with a transverse dimension of 195 mm (along the width of the small base of the shelf).

Fasten six horizontal segments (top cover + bottom base + 4 shelves) on the back wall with screws.

On the front side of the case, attach two vertical strips - supports with self-tapping screws. Embed the self-tapping screws into an array of wood, so that later the fastener sockets can be puttied. Mount the lower base at a distance of 70 mm from the floor. Place the shelves at an equal distance from each other. It is important that the third shelf from the bottom, which will be the top, be fixed at a distance of 760 mm from the floor.

To make the side walls, cut out 2 boards from plywood along the height of the cabinet (1830 mm). Attach the walls with self-tapping screws and glue to the bases and shelves of the case.

Mounting the side walls of the cabinet

Prepare three cornices. Make a shaped cutout in the bottom bar, as in the picture. Process the middle and upper cornice with a milling cutter - make curly grooves, a notch.

You can fix the cornices with carpentry glue, be sure to fix the lower support bar with self-tapping screws.

Door manufacturing

From strips 45 mm wide, assemble two transoms (the length is indicated in the figure). Do this with tongue-and-groove corner joints, smearing them with wood glue. From the back side of the transoms, we screw the plywood sheets with screws.

Estimated door dimensions

You should have two doors with a height from the middle of the bottom bar to the middle of the middle eaves (635 mm). The width will be equal to the distance from the middle of the side vertical bar to the central axis of the body (335 mm).

Treat hard-to-reach places on the body with a grinder or a bar with sandpaper. Paint all surfaces with stain. Then cover with furniture or water varnish. If you own craquelure, you can give the furniture a noble aged look in the form of a patina.

In the sidewalls and doors with a chisel or router, cut out the seats for the hinges. Hang the doors by screwing the hinges with screws. Drill two holes in the vertical slats of the transoms in the center and screw on the two handles.

Inside the cabinet, install the central vertical locking bar. The doors will rest against it and will not fall inside the cabinet.

Vertical stop bar position

Put the corner sideboard in its place. You can glaze the upper compartments for dishes by installing horizontal guides for glass sliding sheets.

Conclusion

Depending on your skills, the assembled furniture may not be of very high quality, however, such sideboards are in demand for country houses and small country houses. Following our advice, feel free to take on the manufacture, you will succeed. If you reach a certain level of skill, then you can decorate your home with homemade furniture.

Wood is a unique material that is great for decorating various rooms. It not only has a natural origin, but also does not emit any toxic substances, but on the contrary, it enriches the air with essential oils. Perfectly is suitable for production of various furniture. It is durable, aesthetic, practical, environmentally friendly and durable.

Handmade interior items add value to such things and make them unique. They bring comfort and warmth to the room, and delight the owner's eyes. It also allows you to realize even the most daring ideas. All you need is a little patience, wooden planks and tools that can be found in almost every home.

Benefits of a homemade buffet

If a person is friends with carpentry tools, then for him the work will not be any problems or difficulties. A homemade sideboard will decorate any kitchen, moreover, it will perfectly please any hostess. Differs in the multifunctionality and spaciousness. Now you do not have to buy a lot of different lockers to hide various little things or dishes there. Everything fits comfortably in the kitchen cupboard.

Important! To ensure the maximum beneficial effect, it is worth considering not only the appearance of the structure, but also its functional tasks.

A handmade wooden sideboard has a number of advantages. These advantages cannot be found in store furniture:

• design can be selected, referring only to your preferences and imagination;
• the material is selected depending on your taste;
• it is possible to use original and unique fittings;
• choose a color scheme that fits perfectly into the overall atmosphere of the kitchen.

In addition, do not forget that such material as wood is extremely beneficial for human health and is compatible with pets. It contains no toxic compounds and substances. The room is filled with aromas of essential oils that make breathing easier.

Important! A sideboard and a sideboard are very similar to each other, because they have a common ancestor - a closet.

The wooden sideboard differs in durability and durability. It will quietly serve for more than a dozen years and is easily amenable to restoration work, and if desired, you can adjust the design almost every year! Another positive feature of a homemade sideboard is that it can be made in the original configuration and dimensions, meeting even greater comfort and convenience.

DIY buffet

Making a sideboard is easy for those who own carpentry. When the preparatory work is completed (selection of material, tools and necessary parts), you can start assembling:

1. Holes are drilled in the sides.
2. The buffet partitions are interconnected.
3. The upper part of the product is attached to the side.
4. Installed internal parts.
5. Base elements are assembled, which are then attached.
6. The façade is being designed.
7. The back wall is fixed, and the cupboard body is laid on its side for a tight fit.
8. Doors and hinges are mounted.
9. Furniture is installed in its permanent place.

They are engaged in decor, referring to their imagination, means and strength.