Strawberries are one of the first berries to ripen in garden plots. And the taste of the fruit is so good that almost all gardeners plant this crop. When given proper conditions and care, strawberry bushes bear excellent fruit. However, there are cases when the culture blooms, but the berries are not tied.

Strawberries are an unpretentious culture, even with not very good care Plants bear fruit and bring a good harvest. Cases when strawberry bushes bloom profusely and at the same time the berries are not tied most often occur when several negative factors that interfere with the formation of fruits fall on the plants at once. Let's analyze the most common ones.

No transfers

It is worth remembering that strawberries bear fruit well in one place only for the first three or four years, then its yield decreases significantly. The fact is that during the time spent on the same bed, the culture takes all the substances necessary for its development. Of course, you can replenish part of the nutrition with top dressing, but the harvest will still be much less than from bushes transplanted to a new place - to "rested" soil. You can transplant strawberries to any bed, with the exception of those where tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes grew.

Lack of pollination

Without proper pollination, you should not expect a good harvest. To attract bees to strawberry bushes, it is necessary to place flower beds with strong-smelling honey plants near the beds. If strawberries are planted away from such crops, you can spray strawberry bushes with a weak honey solution.

Diseases and pests

Strawberry flowers can also fall due to diseases and pests. Most often, flowers fall off due to the attack of such a pest as weevil. Insects lay their larvae in buds, which leads to the death of peduncles. The only way out is to get rid of pests.

All sorts of diseases also prevent strawberries from developing normally. In most cases, plants use all their strength to fight the disease to the detriment of fruiting. To avoid many strawberry diseases, it is enough to properly care for the plants: water, weed, feed, loosen the soil in a timely manner.

frost

Light night frosts can also adversely affect strawberries. Therefore, in the first weeks of strawberry flowering, it is important to monitor the weather, and if there is a threat of frost, then it is necessary to cover the culture. It is not necessary to buy special covering material: if there is hay, straw or moss, then you can use them.

Late transfer/boarding

Flowers fall off or do not form at all if the bushes were planted / transplanted late autumn. The main task for such plants is survival. They grow roots in order to be able to receive nutrients in the quantities necessary for fruiting in the future. Strawberries planted at the end of autumn give the first harvest after a season.

If on suburban area strawberries do not bear fruit, then experienced gardener will name several reasons. The first is the degeneration of the variety. Strawberries bear fruit in one place for only a few years - some varieties 2-3 years, others, more persistent 4-5 years. Intensive type, modern, giving a large berry and super-yield, usually lose varietal qualities for 3-4 years.

1. Degeneration, loss of varietal qualities

Exit in the absence or a small number of berries, in the presence of fruits that are more deformed, with an excess number of seeds - simply change planting material. Dig up the bed without regret, if it is more than 5 years old, move it to a new place.

You can take a couple of outlets with you, but remember: with them you will also take a bouquet of diseases, fungal spots and viruses, as well as voracious sweet tooth - pests - the old beds have probably become their breeding ground.

If the remontant strawberry has ceased to bear fruit, it is often advised to rejuvenate it by dividing the bush. The advice is useful, but only for a year. Dividing the old uterine root into several parts, next year we will not get big harvest, but just a small one - it will be the last. The root system can be divided, but physiologically it has used up all the reserves laid down genetically.

Also, you should not take distant outlets for seedlings - only the first two, the very first from the mother plant: they are the most viable and promising.

Therefore, reluctantly, take such a step - you will not regret it.

2. There are no berries on strawberries - when did you plant them?

Another reason for the lack of berries (flowers, ovaries) is planting at the wrong time. Read about the choice of planting dates for strawberries in the author's publication.

Fruit buds of early varieties are laid at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. If you planted strawberries just before the frosts, generative buds did not have time to form, there is no time for differentiation (formation of fruit buds). All this shifts the timing of fruiting in the summer and significantly reduces fruit formation.

3. I got sick!

Another reason is a fungal infection: if the plants are covered with red, dark spots, then the bushes are probably sick with one of the types of fungal spots - brown, white, angular.

By destroying the leaf apparatus, due to which plants absorb oxygen and the process of photosynthesis occurs, the disease also affects the fruiting of the crop. Strawberries can also not bear fruit with Fusarium wilt - a disease of the root system. At its initial stage, the plants have a stunted, withered appearance, there are no berries, then they simply wither - the bushes can literally be removed from the soil if you pull it slightly - the root system dies.

It can also be the machinations of pests - the larvae of the May beetle, the cockchafers that damage the root system, as well as the weevil, slugs.

4. Is it all about nutrition?

With a lack of nutrients - nitrogen, potassium, manganese, boron, iron, the fruiting of strawberries is extremely poor. When planting, organic + mineral complex is applied, then - during flowering and ovary, the NPK mineral complex is applied at least twice - ready-made fertilizers in the chelated form are complex, tank mixture through the fertigation system or 1/ cup of ash + 30 g of urea - as they say, who in which is much. Details in this article.

5. Pollination, climate and pollinators

The lack of pollination is one of the reasons for the lack of berries - everything is in order in the garden, but there are no berries on strawberries - it will not give birth this year. Perhaps the ovary is missing due to problems with pollination. The bursting heat, the lack of pollinating insects can be to blame - remember, didn’t you howl them with insecticides and acaricides that act not selectively on the pest, but on all insects, including bees?

Some varieties need pollinators - extremely rare, but these are found among strawberries - remember, most of us grow garden strawberries. The yield of others increases when there is a nearby pollinator of another variety - for example, in Vikoda and vice versa, less in its absence.

Strawberries don't bloom!

Strawberries of productive age (up to 4 years) do not bloom - there are several reasons. The first reason for the absence of flowers and ovaries for strawberries is the lack of flower buds at the time of laying nutrients, moisture.

Generative buds were laid in August - early September of the previous year - so let's remember why the plants did not receive enough for laying the future crop. That is why, after fruiting, the plants are fertilized and watered until September.

At extremely high temperatures during the ovary - and the extreme starts after +30 C, the pollen loses its qualities, it can even become sterile. No pollination - no berries. That is why they try to grow early varieties- so that drought does not fall during the ovary.

One of the obvious reasons for the lack of flowers on strawberries is that they don’t bloom and that’s it! - death of flower buds during freezing, icing. By the way, covering material, film or agrofibre should not touch plants in winter - frostbite is guaranteed.

Obvious Causes of Common Problems

If the strawberry buds dry out, fall off before our eyes - this is the pests operating. Strawberry weevil laying eggs in flower buds and overwintering in plant debris. To combat it, insecticides are used, carrying out processing no later than 5 days before flowering, for warning - they take out plant debris, loosen the soil in the root zone.

If the center (stigma) of the flowers has darkened, frost is to blame. At the same time, the petals remain intact, do not change either color or shape. The situation is critical: if the stigmas die, there will be no ovary. To prevent this from happening, do not plant plants in cold lowlands, in early spring cover with agrofibre if there is a threat of return frost.
To save the color from freezing, foggy installations are used - moist air cools more slowly, watered by sprinkling the aisle.

By listening to our advice, you will not worry about why strawberries do not bear fruit - you will know what to do for a generous harvest.

Strawberries do not bear fruit, and what should be done to improve fruiting, garden strawberries need to be “supported” by feeding them with various compounds. It is about them that we will talk today.

It is possible to distinguish several fertilizing periods for strawberries during fruiting.

It is especially important to make a complex in a timely manner necessary fertilizers for large varieties. If strawberries are not fed during fruiting, the berries begin to shrink, lose their taste and become less juicy. We will talk about the most popular and effective ways fertilizing garden strawberries.

Top dressing for strawberries during the formation of berries

In late May - early June, when the first berries are formed, the plant especially needs potassium. Do not interfere with others useful material, which can be made using the following dressings:

• at the very beginning of the formation of fruits contribute wood ash. It is brought into the aisles (1 handful per 1 bush) or a solution is prepared - 1 cup of the substance per 1 liter hot water. The resulting mixture is diluted with 10 liters of water and 1 liter of the composition is added under the bush;
• use potassium monophosphate - 1 tbsp. dilute the drug in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is enough for 5 adult bushes. Before applying the drug, water the plantings abundantly;
• for strawberries during this period, Kemira Lux or Universal is suitable. The drugs are mixed with ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate (in a ratio of 1: 1). Under each bush contribute 1 tsp. the resulting composition.

Do strawberries feed during fruiting?

summer residents are often neglected, but meanwhile, it is at this time, which usually does not exceed two weeks, that the plant also needs additional substances. Examples of such compositions:

• universal top dressing is a solution of mullein with water (1:15). It should be infused for 2-3 days in an airtight container (for partial fermentation). Under one plant, add 1 liter of the resulting mixture;
• use chicken manure in a ratio of 1:30 with water. It should also be infused for several days in a tightly closed container. The resulting composition is applied at the rate of 1 liter under a bush;
• well helps plants and nettle infusion. Prepare a bucket of chopped nettles with a capacity of 10 liters and fill it to the brim with warm water. Let the composition brew for several days and water the plants at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per bush.

Use the drug Plantafol, which protects against the invasion of pests and is intended for foliar feeding.

Fertilizing strawberries with yeast

Gives incredible results yeast nutrition for strawberries. It turns out that this nutrient mixture is the best way to promote the growth and fruiting of garden strawberries and other plants. Try one of the following as well:

• the simplest recipe - add raw yeast (100 g) to a bucket of warm water (10 l) and stir, then leave for a day and add 0.5 l of nutrient mixture under each plant;
• Dilute 0.5 kg of live yeast in a 3 liter jar with warm water and let it brew for 3-4 hours. Then dilute the mixture in 25 liters of water and water the bushes under the root with it;
• Dilute 5 g of dry yeast in 0.5 l of water and add 20 g of sugar (1 tablespoon). After 2-3 hours, dilute the mixture with 25 liters of water and apply 1 liter of the composition under each plant;
• to 1 tbsp. dry yeast add 2 g ascorbic acid, 50 g of sugar, a little earth, 5 liters of warm water and let it brew for a day. Before top dressing, it is diluted with 10 liters of water and a liter of the resulting mixture is added under one bush.

How to feed remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries differ from ordinary strawberries in the first place in that they can bear fruit 2 or more times a year. Moreover, the second harvest (August-September) is sometimes even more abundant than the previous one. Considering that this often happens already in the first year after planting, the plant is in dire need of additional "nutrition". It is necessary to feed remontant strawberries at least 3 times a year.

First dressing carried out to stimulate the rapid growth of leaves. At this time, it is good to use a solution of manure And ammonium sulfate. Mix 2 cups of cow manure with 1 tbsp. sulfate and dilute with 10 liters of water. Under the bush, add 1 liter of the composition.

Second time remontant strawberries are fed even before they begin to bloom. To do this, take 1 glass mullein and dilute it with 5 liters of water. Under each bush, it is enough to add 1 liter of the mixture. An infusion of nettle- Take 1 bucket of 10 liters and fill it with freshly picked leaves. Then add warm water and leave to infuse for 3 days. Strawberries are treated with this composition twice: the first time before flowering, and the second time after harvesting.

Third top dressing held at the end of May, just before flowering. For her use 10 liters of water, 2 tbsp. nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate. Each bush is fertilized with 0.5 liters of the mixture.

Ridges with remontant strawberries begin to cover in August to avoid cold snaps.

Carrying out even such minor top dressing, you are guaranteed to increase the yield and be able to enjoy delicious berries strawberries. Remember that the main thing in feeding this crop is the timely and even application of the necessary substances.

Proper strawberry care for a big harvest

Strawberries are a favorite and incredibly picky berry. Like a spoiled child, she reacts painfully to any wrong step in growing. However, if you comply with the conditions required by the berry, you can harvest annually in buckets from 5-10 square meters. m. area. The yield and longevity of the “straw” berry (as some old-timers call strawberries), the spoiled princess of berry growers, depend on some features of its cultivation. In this article, I will share my many years of experience in growing strawberries.

Strawberries have been growing in my summer cottage since 1987. During this time, I changed the place of its cultivation (that is, transplanted) only three times, although there is an opinion that it is more expedient to transplant strawberries in 3-4 years, or even grow them as a crop in crop or crop rotation.

Important points when growing strawberries are the variety, lighting, soil and watering.

Strawberry varieties

Lighting and space for strawberries

"Straw" berry loves the sun. It also bears fruit in the shade, but it must be an appropriate variety that does not react with a sharp decline. palatability to change the conditions of photosynthesis. Strawberries will not grow well and bear fruit when placed in the lowlands, where cold fogs accumulate and in high places, where the bright sun will burn it. root system strawberries are superficial, react quickly to any changes weather conditions. Therefore, the site should be flat, sunny, calm, with good lighting. At the dacha, I allocated a flat, sunniest plot for strawberries, away from garden plantings, but close to the source of irrigation (artesian). Water for irrigation must be heated in the sun.

soil for strawberries

Strawberries are finicky and won't shape large berries and a big harvest on heavy though fertile soils, peatlands, light gray soils. The best for her are fertile air- and water-permeable soils: chernozems, chestnut, dark gray. On my site, ordinary chernozem is fertile enough, but heavy and dense for strawberries. In order for it to meet the requirements of a capricious berry, before planting seedlings, mustaches, individual bushes, I prepared a plot from autumn with an area of ​​​​10x3m.

Strawberry pineapple, Strawberry garden, Strawberry large-fruited (Fragaria ananassa)

Soil preparation and planting strawberries

From autumn to every square meter brought in 1.5-2.0 buckets of a mixture of organic matter: humus, semi-decomposed manure, compost, bird droppings. I evenly raked it all over the site and dug it up. The weeds have thrived. Cultivated with a chopper by 8-10 cm and sowed in the third decade of August rapeseed (you can use mustard or another crop) on green manure. After about 30 days, she mowed, collected the mowing and added to compost heap. The root residues of green manure were cut by deep loosening (up to 8-10 cm) and watered with a working solution of the Baikal EM-1 soil improver. I used it to increase the number and activity of the Effective Microorganisms in the soil.

During autumn and winter (I live in the south) soil living creatures ( earthworms, other soil inhabitants) will process most of the organic matter into forms available to plants. In addition, rapeseed and mustard are excellent phytosanitary agents that rid the soil of fungal and bacterial infections and a number of pests. Siderats improve soil structure, suppress the growth of weeds. This is a good mulch for suburban plantings(garden, berry, vegetable, flower crops).

The soil after green manure becomes more airy, becomes more crumbly, the gluing of soil particles into one heavy wet lump is significantly reduced. In addition to rapeseed and white mustard, oil radish, buckwheat, oats, phacelia and other green manure crops can be sown. Each green manure, in addition to improving the structure of the soil and getting rid of weeds, replenishes upper layer soil nutrients. Legumes (vetch, lupine, peas) - nitrogen, buckwheat - potassium, white mustard - phosphorus, and rapeseed - phosphorus and sulfur. So, the use of green manure before planting strawberries is a must.

In the spring, before planting strawberries, I once again loosened the soil with a chopper. At the same time, she saved her top layer from spring shoots of weeds. Under loosening brought on the square. m 50 g of nitroammophoska and added agrovermiculite. A natural soil improver loosens the soil well, is able to accumulate water and nutrients and release them gradually to plants if necessary. None negative impacts it does not affect the soil and plants.

The plot for strawberries was divided into narrow ridges and wide paths. Raised the ridges a little, raking the soil from the paths. Landing on the ridges is two-line. The distance between the lines is 30 - cm, in the row between plants - 20 cm. The path between the ridges was left 1.0 m wide.

After planting strawberries from a watering can without a nozzle, approximately 0.4-0.5 liters of root solution was poured under each bush. The soil was mulched (sprinkled) between the plants and between the lines with a mixture of humus with large sawdust and earth. After 2 weeks, the aisles were watered with a solution of bird droppings, using a solution in dilution of 1 part of the droppings with 10 parts of water. The path was mulched with large mulch. During the rest of the growing season, in the first year, I watered the strawberries so that the soil under the mulch was moist. She removed weeds from the path and between the plants in the ridges, cut off all the whiskers. I cut the weeds with a chopper through the mulch without raking it.

strawberry care

In subsequent years, the soil under the strawberries was still kept moist, but without excess moisture. After each watering, I mulched open areas of soil, including paths. fed during growing season 2 times, the last, 3rd time - before the plants retire.

The first time I fed it in the bud phase - the first flowers, with a solution of organic matter. I poured the nutrient solution carefully, from the side of a wide path under the root of the plants so that it did not fall on the flowers, buds, leaves. Consumption - one bucket of solution for 6-12 strawberry bushes. organic fertilizers(manure or bird droppings) diluted in a ratio of 1:10 - 1:12. Sometimes I applied nitroammophoska at 40-50 g/sq. m. After feeding, be sure to water.

Mulched in a row with fine mulch with a layer of 2-3 cm, lifting the leaves. A wide path was mulched with chopped straw, green stems of annual weeds, mowed with dried green manure mass. The earth was covered with a layer of up to 5 cm. By the mass flowering of strawberries, it is necessary to mulch the bushes: the berries in the ridge and on its sides will then lie on a clean mulch.

After the first harvest of strawberries, she carried out the 2nd feeding. For 1 sq. m of area for irrigation scattered 1.5-2.0 cups of ash under the bushes from the side of a wide path or watered with infusion of ash (200 g / 10 l of water). In other years, she added Kemira or a mixture of microelements.

During the first 2 years, she cut off all the whiskers, made it possible for the strawberry bushes to take root well and form healthy plants. From the 3rd year she cut off her mustache from the side of wide paths. Strong 2-3 mustaches from the bush directed to the middle of the line. When the rows of strawberries closed, became thick, thinning was carried out in spring or autumn after harvesting. I dug up strawberry bushes that were early aged, fruitless, ugly, forming small berries. I left 3-4 bushes per linear meter. This thinning was done every 4 years. Sometimes, in a free place, after disinfection with 1% potassium permanganate, she planted (directed) a healthy, well-developed mustache. The feeding area for the remaining bushes increased. Strawberry bushes formed larger berries, a lush above-ground mass.

The third dressing of strawberries was carried out at the end of September. I applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for the last irrigation (no more than 60-70 g / sq. M.). At the same time, I tried to cut off the old, shrunken, diseased, creeping leaves on the ground. If there was no time left for this procedure, then I tried to cover them with mulch, where they rotted until spring.

During the growing season, the main thing for adult strawberries is sufficient watering, but not excessive. Otherwise, the roots become rotten and the bush dies, infecting those growing nearby. And the second condition is sparse landings. It is necessary to thin out unnecessary bushes, especially if the initial plantings were thickened (after 10 cm).

Approximately on the 4th - 5th year, it left the most developed strawberry whiskers with normal, not elongated internodes and directed them to a wide path. For 1-2 years, a row of young strawberry bushes appeared along the edges of a wide path, which was cut off from the old row in the fall. I dug up the old 2 rows. Under digging contributed full mineral fertilizer. It is necessary to quickly rot the remains of the mulch brought annually under the strawberries in the ridge. The arrangement of strawberries changed from two-row to single-row. The distance between the rows was approximately 50, 40-50 cm. The mustache was also cut off during this period, leaving 1-2 of the most developed, directed along the row. Strawberries bear fruit for another 4-5-6 years, forming high yields healthy large berries.

Strawberries do not bear fruit Strawberry transplant methods

If it becomes necessary to replace a strawberry plot with a new plantation, this can be done in the following ways:

• occupy a new area
• improve the old site and plant young bushes on it.

The site can be replaced by another, spend all preparatory work and plant planting material of the same or other strawberry varieties.

It is possible to heal the same area without changing it for one or two years and plant it with new planting material.

You can leave 1/3-1/4 of the plot under the crop. Dig up the rest in the fall and prepare for planting a young plantation within one or two years. We prepare part of the area under strawberries for wintering as usual. In the rest of the area after the last harvest, we cut the strawberry bushes at the level of the root collar. When the bushes dry up, it is necessary to add organic matter, dig up, sow green manure. You can not mow it and leave it until spring or mow it, but leave the mowing in place. In the spring, cover the green manure in the soil and sow 2-3 more times during the warm season until autumn. different green manure, embedding them in the soil upon reaching a height of 8-10 cm (before budding). They will improve the structure, reduce or remove the weediness of the site, replenish nutrient reserves. For the second autumn, they carry out the entire cycle of work to prepare the soil for planting strawberries. In autumn at the end of August, you can plant a new strawberry plantation or leave the planting for spring. Planting material must be prepared for planting.

So that in hot weather strawberries do not burn and do not hurt, sow in wide aisles winter garlic and sometimes for 2 years did not clean it. Strawberries didn't hurt at all. Mulching with ashes kept the area free of slugs. May beetle larvae have not appeared on the site over the years. Probably a layer of mulch interfered with egg deposition. Strawberry bushes were shaded from the summer sun by sowing phacelia along a wide path between strawberries and garlic. It was possible to use (as gardeners advise) tall tagetes, calendula, cosmea, or plant a row of corn together with garlic.

Planting pineapple strawberries or garden strawberries - strawberries.

I do not cover strawberries for the winter. In cold regions, during May days and early June frosts, you can use shelters made of spunbond or other materials. They must be removed in the morning. Otherwise, the ovaries and flowers may die from overheating under cover.

Thus, following the basic agricultural practices, it is possible to grow large and healthy strawberries without frequent transplants. The main thing is to choose zoned varieties of healthy planting material. Prepare the soil carefully. Using timely watering, top dressing, thinning, it is possible to grow strawberries in one place not for 2-3 years, but up to 7-8 and even 10 years.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries

Strawberries are the most beloved and most common crop. Strawberries reproduce well, take root well, are not very demanding on soil fertility and climate. With good and competent care, you can get bountiful harvest strawberries every season.

Strawberries, or wild strawberries, are a plant up to 30 cm high. Strawberries are propagated by rooting mustaches. For good growth and propagation of strawberries enough air temperature of 8 degrees. At lower temperatures, the growth of strawberries is inhibited. Plants root very well within 4 weeks. Best time for planting strawberry seedlings in middle lane Russia - May. But strawberries can be planted from July to September with good watering.

Wintering strawberries with green leaves. With the onset of spring, the bushes begin to develop new young leaves and roots.

Strawberries are propagated by mustaches and rosettes of leaves. It is better to purchase planting material in a nursery or from experienced collectors. When buying seedlings, choose one that has developed 3-5 leaves, a whole heart and white juicy roots.

If during the time of active collection of strawberry berries there are no fruits in the garden, then do not despair. Of course, it is unpleasant when garden strawberries bloom, but do not bear fruit. That is why it is urgent to find the cause of such a situation, as well as ways to solve it. After all necessary activities, you can expect that next year strawberries will delight you with a rich and sweet harvest.

Causes and their elimination

There are several reasons why a culture may not bloom. Let's dwell on each of them.

Loss of varietal qualities

If there are no berries on the strawberry bushes, and the fruits that are available look deformed, there are too many seeds, then changing the planting material will help solve the situation. First of all, you need to carefully dig the beds. If strawberries grew on this place more than five years, then it is time to plant it in another area.

Undesirable on new territory plant rosettes that did not bear fruit, as they may be infected with an infection or attacked by pests. Remontant strawberries, which does not produce berries, it is recommended to rejuvenate by dividing its bush. This method will help only once, since during the division of the old plant, fruiting will be the last one. When planting strawberries, you should not use a distant outlet, the first ones are considered the most viable.

Late landing

A fairly common reason why summer residents do not have a strawberry crop is planting young plant at the wrong time. In any early variety, budding occurs at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn.

When a berry bush is planted just before the onset of frost, the formation of generative buds simply does not have time to occur. That is, strawberries do not have enough time to form fruit buds. In connection with this situation, there is a shift in the timing of fruiting by summer period, as well as significantly reduced the number of berries.

Disease of culture

The reasons for the lack of fruits in strawberries include plant disease, its infection with a fungal infection. You can recognize the disease by the presence of red and dark spots. If there are any, then the culture was attacked by brown, white or angular spotting. The destruction of foliage, which is an active participant in photosynthesis and strawberry respiration, is the main reason why the plant does not bear fruit. To eliminate the disease, you can use preparations that contain copper, such as Bordeaux mixture or iodine solution.

Also, fruiting may be absent if garden strawberries are infected with Fusarium. Such a plant looks stunted, withered, it simply does not have the strength to form fruits. Fusarium quickly kills the strawberry bush, so it is necessary to spray with Fundazol or Benorad. In addition, you can manually look for a pest on the plant, for example, the larva of the cockchafer, beetle, weevil or slug.

If there are any, then the treatment with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir can save the plant.

Lack of fertilizer and moisture

The lack of nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, manganese, boron and iron is the basis for the poor fruiting of strawberries. Consider how to properly fertilize the crop.

• In the first half of March, plants should be fed with nitrogen and peat. The use of chicken manure or manure will be effective. Such dressings are applied under the root and sprinkled with soil. Fertilizing with nitrogen after flowering is a guarantee of good growth, but if it is in excess, then fruiting can be severely affected.
• At the beginning and at the end of the season, it is advisable to fertilize with wood ash.
• When strawberries begin to grow, you need to feed them with a mixture of urea, ammonium molybdate and boric acid. In the dry season, do not forget about watering strawberry bushes. In order for the crop to become more abundant, and moisture to remain in the soil, it is worth doing mulching. For this purpose, a ten-centimeter straw layer is used.

Lack of pollination, unsuitable climate

If there are no pests, infections on the strawberry garden, the plant develops normally, lets out a mustache, then the reason for which there are no berries is the absence of a pollinator. Such a situation could be caused by extreme heat or pollinating insects that did not do their job. Sometimes gardeners themselves are to blame for this, as they carry out the treatment of the site with an insecticide or acaricide, which kill pollinators.

The increase in yield is facilitated by planting nearby pollinating varieties of another type of strawberry, as well as the competent use of chemicals.

Often, flower buds simply die during frosts, as well as icing. An effective remedy against such a situation will be sheltering plants. As a covering material, agrofiber or film can be used, which should not come into contact with plantings, otherwise frostbite will be guaranteed.

weed varieties

There are situations when strawberries are properly cared for, well fed, hydrated, but do not produce crops. The reason for this situation may be the presence of a weed variety that was purchased along with seedlings. These are the well-known "Dubnyak" and "Suspension". In appearance, the bushes are absolutely healthy, but there are no fruits on them, and if berries appear, they are small and deformed. If such plants are not destroyed in a timely manner, then they will displace the cultivar of strawberries and summer residents will not see the harvest.

Common weed varieties:

• "Zhmurka"- has low bushes and many wrinkled leaves;
• "Bakhmutka"- this plant is distinguished by tallness and pubescence of foliage, it blooms profusely and produces a small pink berry;
• "Dubnyak"- a bush on which there are no berries at all.

Preventive measures

In the absence of fruits in a strawberry bush, it is worth holding preventive measures. First of all, in the fall, remove all dry and diseased bushes, remove weeds. Effective preventive measures include several points.

• Treatment of the plant during flowering. In the strawberry growth phase, it is worth mulching with organic matter or films. Before flowering, spray the bushes with preparations against pests and fungal infections. During the appearance of buds, it is necessary to fertilize based on phosphorus, and when flowering is over, complex fertilizer.
• Treatment of culture from diseases. The longer strawberries grow in a certain area, the higher the risk of getting a fungal and viral disease in the bushes. spraying chemicals must be held at least four times per season. The use of Bordeaux liquid with soap-containing preparations and fungicides will become effective.

Strawberries are a berry that has a pleasant taste and aroma, it is loved by adults and children. To enjoy the fruits garden strawberries all year round and reap bountiful harvests, experienced gardeners It is advised to adhere to the following rules:

• transplant and rejuvenate strawberry beds every three years;
• do not plant new seedlings on an old plantation;
• choose only high-quality material for planting;
• fertilize and water plants;
• destroy pests and treat diseases;
• plant bushes on time.

Guided simple rules, and with a little time, you can harvest abundant strawberry crops every year.

For information on how to properly care for strawberries, see the following video.

If it's time to pick strawberries, and there are almost no berries in the garden, you need to try to understand why such a disgrace occurs. There can be quite a few reasons why garden strawberries do not bear fruit.

1. It is possible that the strawberry plants have simply grown old: if the rosettes were planted more than five years ago, then the flowering gradually weakens, fewer ovaries form, and the berries become small. In this case, young plants are planted in a new place, and the old ones are cut down and burned.

2. If strawberries planted in August of the previous year do not bear fruit, this is a natural process: before the onset of frost, she did not have time to lay flower buds, and all her vitality was spent on root formation. These plantings will begin to bear fruit only after a season. And in order to get a strawberry harvest the next summer after planting, it is necessary to carry out work no later than the end of July - the beginning of August, so that young rosettes take root before frost and lay flower buds.

3. If productive bushes of two to four years of age, from which it was obtained last season, bloom poorly. good harvest, the reason must be sought in the absence of watering or top dressing. In August, the plants are laying flower buds for the harvest next year. If last season there was little rainfall, and watering was not carried out, then the plants did not have enough strength to form a sufficient number of flower buds. The lack of top dressing also adversely affects the abundance of fruiting. Both top dressing and regular watering of strawberries must be carried out until September.

4. If the winter was very frosty, then non-hardy ones can freeze out. But even varieties with good winter hardiness can die if from the garden strong winds the snow cover was blown away. To prevent this, you need to move the ridge with strawberries to a more protected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden or cover the plantings for the winter with covering materials, spruce branches. You can build a wind barrier from pieces of slate.

5. In the event that enough has passed since the planting of garden strawberry plants a large number of time, but there are still no fruits - it's a matter of variety. “Mustache” bought from the hands on the market may belong to weedy varieties: “Bakhmutka”, “Suspension”, “Zhmurka”, “Dubnyak”. Such plants may not bloom at all, or they may form empty flowers. The resulting ovaries, even with careful care, turn into small hard berries, and the plants give a great many mustaches. You just need to get rid of these "varieties", and it is better to purchase planting material in nurseries. But if it is high-grade material that does not bear fruit, then it is most likely not zoned or the quality of a particular soil is not suitable for it.

6. Strawberries may not form ovaries if during the period abundant flowering there were heavy rains - bees and bumblebees could not pollinate it. This can also happen when bee colonies have been severely affected by diseases, and bumblebee nests have been destroyed when plowing large areas of land. Then there will be few ovaries on plum and cherry, cross-pollinated cucumbers. To attract for pollination beneficial insects, can be sprayed flowering plants warm water with the addition of a few drops of anise or coriander oil. During this period for garden plot It is not recommended to use insecticides to treat plants from pests.

7. If the buds dry up and fall off, and the flower stalks dry up, this means that the strawberry weevil attacked the plot with strawberries. Females of this pest lay their eggs in flower buds, and early varieties of berries are especially affected. For their maximum destruction, it is necessary to collect and destroy all plant debris in the fall, and thoroughly loosen the ground around the strawberry bushes. In the next season, it is imperative to treat strawberries with insecticides. As soon as the buds appear from the ground, they must be sprayed immediately. The deadline for spraying is 5 days before flowering. Processing is carried out early in the morning so that the poison has time to decompose by night. This is important so that nocturnal insects that destroy pests do not suffer. One of the rapidly decomposing drugs is the fairly safe Fitoverm.

8. The center of the flowers may darken - this happens when they die from freezing. In this case, the petals may not suffer, and the stigmas freeze through. To prevent this from happening, it is better not to plant bushes in low areas - it is there that during cold snaps, cold air accumulates and stagnates for the longest time. When waiting for frost, it is necessary to cover flowering plants with dense "agril" or "lutrasil" - these materials do not require the installation of supporting arches. In the same way, jute burlap can be used, but when covering strawberries with cellophane, arcs are required, otherwise the flowers may freeze in contact with the cooled film. Sometimes abundant watering on the eve of frost can help out - moist air will cool more slowly. But this method is only suitable for calm weather.