Features of the use of green manure for different types of soils. Green manure - a way to increase soil fertility Two ways to incorporate green manure into the soil

The July harvest has been harvested, but what to do with the land? Sideration is an excellent agricultural technique recommended by experienced gardeners.

Harvesting in July, we free up space in the garden. It's too late to plant something, and everything is planted. How to occupy an empty garden bed and prevent it from overgrowing with weeds?

Weed grass, even if it is weeded in time, still sometimes manages to give seeds, and even brings them with the wind. The process of weeding is a laborious, thankless task. Weeds are taken out of the soil nutrients and help the development of pests. There is only one way out - to sow green manure on the vacant land.

Green manure is something for which even the most hungry and lifeless soil will thank you and thank good harvest. You can sow them early in the spring and plant seedlings directly on them, only cutting grown plants at ground level. You can sow before winter to dig them into the soil in early spring, or you can also in the summer - to the vacant place.

The choice of green manure crops is now huge, you can make a mixture, or you can plant it as a monoculture. Spring rapeseed, mustard, rye, oats, oil radish are the most best crops for soil manure.

Spring rapeseed Oilseed buckwheat Mustard Oats Rye

Rapeseed, mustard and radish can be sown both in early spring and throughout the summer. They quickly give a good green mass, which is embedded in the soil.

If we have a very clayey area, then we repeat the procedure several times. We close up in the soil by digging and immediately sow a new batch of seeds. Mustard is very good at disinfecting the earth. And the green mass gives the necessary nutrition to the earth, fertile humus is formed.

Soil seeding can replace the application of organic fertilizers to the soil, such as manure. It is important to remember that mining from industrial greenhouses is often sold under the guise of manure. And nothing good earth such a "valuable fertilizer" will not give. Mustard as a monoculture or mixed with other seeds is good to sow after diseased plants.

Rye is the most unpretentious of all green manure crops.. Unpretentious to the soil, quickly develops a powerful root system and increases the green mass. Grows on both acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Relatively drought-resistant and winters well even in snowless winters.

Sown in the middle of summer or closer to autumn, in September, by the end of autumn it is gaining a large number of green mass. It needs to be mowed and dug into the soil, during the winter it will rot and greatly enrich the soil with oranika. The soil after it is like fluff.

Rye contributes to the formation of humus, especially on the lungs, sandy soils due to the large amount of biomass. It is embedded in the soil in autumn or early spring. Just don't wait for it to start spitting.

If we close up before winter, then already in early spring, a plot with a closed green mass is ready for planting and sowing.

The green mass of any green manure is embedded in the soil to a depth of 12-15 cm on light sandy soils and 8-10 cm on clay, heavy ones.

The key here is moderation. If too much green mass is planted in the soil, it will sour rather than decompose.

If you missed the rye, and it has already formed a hard stem, then the microorganisms that process the green mass will not have enough nitrogen, and they will take it from the soil. This will not increase, but will reduce its fertility, especially in the first year after planting. So don't miss this important moment.

Unlike rye, other crops can be grown larger. But still, a balance must be maintained so as not to close up in one square meter soil a lot of green mass and do not allow it to rot.

It is possible to close up any green manure only in moist soil - embedding in dry soil will not give the desired result . The choice of green manure crops depends only on your preferences.

Rye is one of the best green manure crops. Its rapid growth and strong tillering leave no chance even for perennial weeds. Rye inhibits pathogens of fungal diseases, reduces the content of nitrates. The roots of rye destroy the nematode - another scourge of the gardener, so garden strawberries (strawberries) and many other crops damaged by the nematode grow well after it.

Couch grass, field bindweed, wood lice, sow thistle disappear in one year.

In two years, the wireworm disappears, which is especially important in areas where it is planned to plant potatoes. Since this pest most severely harms him and is difficult to handle.

Soil sideration is an excellent agricultural method to improve the condition of the soil, increase its fertility. Improve its sanitary condition without the use of pesticides, and often cure just after their use . If you successfully apply it along with mulching, then your site will soon turn into a flowering oasis.

Do I need to plant green manure in the garden and when is it better to plant? Do these crops enrich the soil and what to do with them after flowering? You will find out the answers to all these questions right now.

Siderates have been used since time immemorial. Europeans borrowed this agricultural technique in China, and already at the time Ancient Greece it spread to the Mediterranean countries.

Now with rebirth organic farming, in which it is customary to avoid mineral fertilizers (it is believed that they reduce taste qualities yield and plant disease resistance) interest in green manure has awakened again.

When to sow green manure

There is a law in natural or organic farming that the land must never be left without plants. So that the soil surface is constantly covered, green fertilizers are sown, which are called green manure.

Green manure can be planted throughout the season

In this capacity, cultures are used that sprout together and grow rapidly. Green manure is sown in spring, summer and autumn - that is, at any time.

Siderata - landing at different times

Green manure requires fast-growing plants that have time to grow green mass before or after vegetable crops, as well as in the intervals between their cultivation. The following cultures are suitable for these purposes.

1. Podzimny sowing - fodder beans, winter vetch, rapeseed, rye. These crops, sown before winter, sprout early in the spring and by the time the seedlings or potatoes are planted, they have time to grow a sufficient volume of stems and leaves.
2. Early spring sowing - spring rape, field peas. Particularly suitable for spring sowing leaf mustard. This cold-resistant culture can be sown almost immediately after the melt water has drained. In the few weeks of spring that remain before planting seedlings, mustard will have time to grow full-fledged leaves and even bloom. Embedded in the ground in a flowering state, it will significantly enrich it with nitrogen. When growing potatoes, this technique allows you to free the soil from the wireworm.
3. Buckwheat is sown in mid-spring. The culture is characterized by rapid growth, it instantly forms branched and deep roots, therefore it is especially recommended for cultivation on heavy soils. If buckwheat is sown in the spring, then it will have to be planted no earlier than in the fall, therefore, for the most part, this crop is used to improve the land in the aisles of the garden.
4. At the beginning of summer, perennial clover and annual lupine are sown: yellow, blue and white. You can sow lupins not only in June, but also in July-August, as well as in spring, if the climate is mild. This plant is considered best predecessor for strawberry plantations, as it actively suppresses the soil nematode. Therefore, there is always a point in its early spring sowing - by the time the berry planter is planted (in August), the lupins will have time to grow, clean and fertilize the ground. Also in the summer you can sow oil radish - it is closed up for sideration late in the fall.

Types of green manure

Of all green manure crops, it is worth dwelling in particular detail on three crops that play a major role in natural farming.

Siderata lupine

German gardeners call this plant a blessing. Lupins can be grown on sands and loams. They are highly drought-resistant, can grow on saline soils, meadows, fallows.

Lupins are leguminous plants. Like all plants of this family, nitrogen-fixing microorganisms live on the roots of lupins, which, when the roots decompose, enrich the soil with nitrogen. Such green manure accumulates 200 kilograms of nitrogen per hectare. It allows you to save mineral fertilizers and obtain environmentally friendly products. Three types of annual lupins and one perennial are grown in Russia.

Lupine can grow in any type of soil

Plants can be mowed as early as 8 weeks after shoots appear - at this time buds form in lupins. You need to have time to mow the green mass before the buds are colored, otherwise the grassy stems will coarsen and will slowly decompose. The culture is sown in single rows, between which a distance of 20 to 30 centimeters is left.

Lupine is interesting in that after embedding, you do not need to wait a week or two until the plant rots - next crop sown immediately after the incorporation of this green manure. Of all the lupins, the most hassle-free is yellow, it is not sensitive to soil acidity, but requires moisture. White lupine gives the largest "greenness", it can be sown in August and planted in the soil this autumn.

Siderata phacelia

Cold-resistant and unpretentious phacelia begins to sprout three days after sowing, and after a week its seedlings will resemble a brush. The culture grows very quickly, it is unpretentious, tolerates any soil. The stem and leaves of the phacelia are tender, quickly decompose in the soil and enrich it with nitrogen.

Phacelia planted in early spring gives 250 kg of green mass for every 10 sq.m.

In addition, phacelia is a strong honey plant and attracts bees to the site. Phacelia is sown in batches in spring and summer, and after 6 weeks it blooms. Sow randomly, the norm is 5-10 grams per square meter. It is suitable as a precursor for any culture.

Siderata mustard

Recognized masters of organic farming - the Germans - consider mustard the best green manure. Its roots have the ability to convert phosphorus and sulfur from insoluble mineral compounds contained in the soil into a plant-available state. In addition, mustard is an excellent source of nitrogen, as its green mass quickly overripes and serves as food for plants planted later.

Mustard can also be used as a condiment.

It is best to close the mustard 8-10 weeks after germination, at which time it begins to bloom. If there are no 10 weeks in stock, then it still makes sense to sow mustard. In this case, she will not have time to increase the maximum vegetative mass, but such sowing will also benefit the soil.

Mustard must not be allowed to give seeds so that it does not turn from green manure into a common weed.

Disadvantages: this crop does not tolerate drought well and cannot be a precursor for cruciferous: cabbage, radish.

What are siderates for?

Green manure is widely used in field cultivation, but, unfortunately, is rarely used on garden plots. Meanwhile, this technique allows you to achieve several goals at once:

• increases soil fertility;
• protects the earth from weathering;
• keeps nutrients in the upper horizon;
• protects against weeds;
• green manures play the role of mulch.

For sowing on green manure, cereals and legumes are used, but the best green manures are legume-cereal mixtures. After the plants grow and develop a significant leaf apparatus, they are mowed and embedded in the soil, or simply cover the surface of the earth with them, using them as mulch. If there is no desire to mow green manure, you can simply dig the site along with them.

In the soil, green manure turns into humus - special kind organics. Humus is the basis of fertility. It is the amount of humus that determines nutritional value soil for plants, water and air regime, affects the structure. Humus gradually mineralizes, so one of the tasks of the farmer is to constantly maintain its reserves in the soil. Sideration is perfect for this. A single application of green fertilizers heals and fertilizes the soil for several years.

Green manure plants can not only be buried in the soil, but also used for composting, for the preparation of liquid dressings, decoctions to protect against pests and diseases of crops. They will help out if it is not possible to buy humus or mineral water. The use of green manure always speaks of the high agrotechnical culture of the landowner. Definitely, every summer resident should introduce green manure plants into the crop rotation of his site.

This is usually done throughplowing or digging. But as a result, we destroy the very structure of the soil that green manure created in the process of its growth; we destroy the capillaries necessary for cultivated plants to receive moisture, and we move the weed seeds closer to the surface.We must not forget, “that in structural soil the simultaneity of supplying plants with both water and food is not interrupted for a moment, while in structureless soil water and digestible food are in a state of antagonism” (academician V.R. Williams).In this case, we not onlywe take from green manure what they are able to give, not only reduce the beneficial effect of green manure by several times, but also spend energy (plowing) and labor (digging) resources for this.

Let's go back to our wise teacher — Nature. Let's take a closer look at the natural meadow. It is completely covered with dry blades of grass, last year's leaves and other organic residues, which, covering the soil, gradually rot. This is natural mulch.

But that is not all. plowed(or buried) fresh organic matter cuts off the capillary rise of water, and upper layer soil immediately dries up. If it goes heavy rain, then water cannot penetrate deep into the soil, since the same organic matter blocks its path. This means that as water flows from the surface, it erodes the soil, carrying away nutrients. The top layer of soil turns into a swamp, and, when dried, creates a solid soil crust. Air does not enter the soil, organic matter begins to sour.

What to do? Apply flat-cut tillage without layer turnover. With this treatment, we mulch the soil (automatically) with green mass, start the process of enrichment with organic matter, do not disturb the structure created by the green manure root system, preserve the capillaries and do not touch the weed seeds.

Depth is very important. It is better to close up green fertilizer shallowly, since with deep incorporation it does not decompose, but turns into a peat-like mass. If green manure is grown several times during the growing season, then the seeds can be sown directly on growing plants, then on small areas till the soil with a Fokin flat cutter. So part green mass enters the topsoil, but the bulk remains on the surface as an organic mulch.

In small areas where green manure close up by digging, it is better to do it in the fall. During the winter, organic matter (roots, stems, leaves) rots (mineralizes) to a large extent, and already in early spring (March - April) the site is ready for sowing and planting. In addition, the root and above-ground mass of plants, rotting, releases heat, which contributes to the development of earthworms and beneficial microorganisms. If when closing green manure, surface tillage was carried out by milling, weeding or flat-cutting, then the upper layer is loosened, and the lower one is not disturbed. Sown seeds or planted plants take root quickly and well in campaigns prepared by a rotted green manure root system. In the initial period of vegetation in the root zone, the plant is supported by stored moisture and nutrients.

When planting green manure in spring possible delay in germination of sown seeds or their death. This happens because the fresh plant mass covered with soil dramatically changes all microbioenergy processes: And if the seeds enter the soil along with the plant mass, they are “preserved” by it. Indeed, in the initial stage of its decomposition, substances are released that destroy pests and competitors and prepare the conditions for the development of their own offspring, while the germination of seeds of other crops is inhibited. But after the processes of decomposition and the release of preservatives decrease, seeds of cultivated plants can be sown.

In the second half of summer, when excess water in the soil can adversely affect the maturation of wood of fruit trees, green manure sown between rows orchard, dry the soil (watering of trees is usually stopped from Ilyin's day - August 2), improve its physical and Chemical properties, contribute to a good and earlier maturation of wood and an increase in the quality of fruits. The latter acquire best coloration and taste, become more keeping, they increase the content of ascorbic acid, sugars, dry substances.

Siderates also play a sanitary role. Thus, a dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the number of wireworms, a malicious pest of potatoes; rye and the same mustard help to reduce the incidence of potato scab. All legumes, oil radish, annual ryegrass, phacelia suppress the nematode.

I think that green manure is known to all or almost all gardeners and gardeners. But not everyone is aware of the effect that certain green manure plants have on the soil. For those who do not know, I give a small table that clearly shows this.

I, too, after reading on the internet and watching YouTube videos, decided this year to sow white mustard mixed with barley in my garden.

This is what barley mustard looks like today

It's getting close to winter. We have already had morning frosts on the soil several times, but mustard and barley endured these heralds of winter well. Growing, but still far from flowering.

And I read on the Internet that the meaning of sideration is to enrich the soil with nutrition, and the more biomass it is during the budding-flowering period, the more nutrition there is.
So I don’t know if my planting will be of any use if the mustard goes into the winter before it blooms?

And the most important question is what to do with it when real frosts come - to bury it in the soil or not?

Many conflicting answers about this are given by gardeners on the net.

Here small example this discussion on the site https://answer.mail.ru/:

Mustard buried in the ground will rot for a very long time and will most likely turn sour without air. This is how silage and sauerkraut are prepared - finely chop the greens and deprive them of air. Manure buried in the ground does not rot for years. Manure spread over the surface is absorbed by the soil and processed by soil living creatures in one season. In nature, no one walks the grass that has died off in the fall and does not bury it in the ground. Cows in the pasture, having laid out a "cake", do not bury it in the ground. For many centuries of development, nature has adapted microorganisms to process organic matter that dies off in the fall. It is not worth digging to interfere with nature, spoil the work of microorganisms and disturb the structure of the soil. Why do extra work, and even to the detriment of yourself and the soil? Alexei

I would disagree with Alex. In order to get silage, you need to sprinkle the raw material with saltpeter and close the pit, then the silage will turn out. And green manure is recommended to plow all agronomists. MILGA MILGA

Plowing - extra labor costs. Frost will do its job with mustard and without you. In addition, moisture + frost in winter loosen the earth so that in spring the earth is like fluff. It is checked up on own experience.

I prefer to bury in the ground, but no later than August and with the introduction of EM preparations (at the depth of the bayonet of a shovel, the conditions are by no means anaerobic, there is plenty of air). Green manure planted in a later period does not rot, they remain in the soil for another season. The herbs left in the winter do not give anything at all, by the spring dry blades of grass remain (Moscow region). Isn't it, completely different opinions. I think that everyone should look for their own ways, depending on the region and soil. Elena Akentieva

In general, there are many opinions and there is no consensus yet.

What do you think, is it necessary to close green manure in the garden before winter or not?

Siderates for potatoes should be selected taking into account the fact that this crop is from the nightshade family and many of them require, above all, available nitrogen. In order for a sufficient number of tubers to form, the soil must be loose, water and breathable.

Green manures that can scare away potato pests and prevent the development of pathogenic microorganisms will also be important. Based on these requirements, we can conclude that it is optimal to use not one, but two or even three cultures that will perform the listed tasks.

In order to improve and increase the yield of potatoes, to protect it from diseases and pests, it is possible to sow a piece of land prepared for planting with green manure in the spring. But not every green manure is suitable for potatoes. Therefore, before choosing Siderates for potatoes, you need to find out which of them will improve the soil and turn out to be really useful for the vegetable.

Green manure is not in vain called "green manure". They really plow into the ground like manure, peat and other organic matter. Decaying, green organic plants add various microelements to the loosened layer. First of all, these are potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and other substances, needed by potatoes for growth and development. Humus reserves in the fertile layer with the help of green organic matter can be increased literally in one season. But there is one caveat. It is important to monitor the amount of growing green mass. If its volume is too large, then the plowed stems will begin to sour, and not decompose.

Unwanted green manure for potatoes - sunflower. For its development, he himself takes too much from the soil nutrient organics, therefore, rather impoverish fertile layer which will benefit him. In addition, its stem quickly becomes coarse and decomposes slowly in the soil.

Rye and wheat, although they enrich the soil with nitrogen, heal it, suppress any weeds, but attract wireworms. Therefore, they are not recommended as precursors for potatoes and other root crops.

Important! Potatoes can grow in one place for 4 years. After that, the place for planting potatoes must be changed. Otherwise, you can get a breeding ground for harmful microorganisms and pathogens that will harm your crop.

Ways to use green manure

There are three ways to use green manure:

Full application- this is the incorporation of the entire grown mass of green manure into the soil potato field to a depth of 10 cm.

mowing use- this is the embedding in a potato field of mowed green mass from green manure, which was grown elsewhere.

Otavny use- this is plowing only the roots of green manure grown in place of potatoes; cut stems are collected and taken to other sites for hay fertilization.

Siderates are plants that are designed to improve the quality of the soil. They are sown in the ground either in the fall, after harvesting, or in the spring, before the main planting.

Siderates for potatoes are best sown in the fall before the onset of winter. Thus, the site is immersed in hibernation covered with a green cover and protected from severe frosts. With the onset of spring, you should not rush to remove the vegetation, it can stand until May, when the planting season begins potato, a The soil during this period will be enriched with the necessary trace elements.

During the planting of potatoes, green manure is not initially cut off, you can give some time for co-growth. This feature allows you to protect vegetables from sunlight and low temperatures.

After digging potatoes (July-August), it is advisable to sow mustard, rape, radish or peas, beans, beans. This will allow the soil to acquire the necessary biomass even before the onset of frost.

It is necessary to remove the vegetation cover two weeks before planting the main crop, if the option of joint growth of green manure with potatoes is not provided. Within a month, the cut plants will rot and the site will acquire the desired appearance. It is advisable to mow green manure before flowering, otherwise they will rot for a long time and partially lose their useful qualities.

What green manure is better to sow under potatoes

The best siderates for potatoes are legumes: alfalfa, vetch, peas, lupins, sweet clover. They enrich the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus, which potatoes need for rapid growth.

Humus has the same effect on potatoes, but it decomposes in the soil much longer than green manure. And the rate of application of manure per unit area is much higher than that of legumes.

Other siderates for potatoes give less return: rapeseed, wheat, oats, rye, mustard, phacelia. However, their powerful root system perfectly protects the fertile layer from wind and water erosion and enriches it with many trace elements. But when decomposed, these green fertilizers do not release nitrogen, so their use will not increase the yield of potatoes as much as legume predecessors.

Phacelia is a universal green manure - a precursor for all crops, including potatoes. Considering that potatoes are planted in the spring, when frosts can still be on the surface of the earth, the cold resistance of phacelia is especially valuable. Phacelia is best sown in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. She will have time to rise, gain enough green mass before planting potatoes. Big plus of this plant is the ability to provide the soil with breathability and friability, which is essential for proper growth any root crop.

Phacelia and mustard, as green manure in growing potatoes, have other important properties. In addition to saturating the soil with useful macro- and microelements, they Are the best green manure for potatoes from wireworm. Many summer residents faced with such a problem and know that it is quite difficult to defeat this pest. Wheat and rye have a positive effect on the structure of the soil, destroy weeds, but on the contrary, they are very attractive to the wireworm.

If the soil is infested with pests or fungus

"Sick" soil infected with a disease or pests is better to "treat" before planting potatoes. Otherwise, the quality of the crop may suffer. Certainly, chemicals can significantly improve the condition of the land, but is it worth it to rush to use them? After all, there is a way to improve the land more accessible and less harmful to it and the crop.

These are siderates of the cruciferous group (oil radish, white mustard, rapeseed, colza). These natural healers are able to cope with common potato diseases. late blight, potato scab, fusarium, all types of rot. They do not like the presence of cruciferous and Nematodes, wireworms, slugs. Plants are not picky about the soil and growing conditions, easily master any soil, grow quickly. On especially contaminated land, it is advisable not to mow the fully grown green manure, periodically overseeding it. The cruciferous plants growing between the rows perform their phytosanitary functions throughout the growing season and potato ripening. And the autumn shoots of cruciferous, cut or embedded in the ground, can significantly reduce the amount in one winter. Provolochnikov Location on.

How to plant green manure under potatoes in autumn

Experienced gardeners have been convinced many times in practice that sowing plants as an organic fertilizer in the fall after potatoes is the most productive, efficient, and effective.

Productive- because it has a beneficial effect on increasing productivity.

Effective- because it enriches the soil with useful nutrients, improves its structure, suppresses weeds, repels and reduces the amount harmful insects.

Effective- because the earth is protected from erosion by spring waters, weathering, overheating from the scorching rays of the sun.

When growing green organic matter, it is important to observe agricultural technology, seeding rate, take into account the composition and fertility of the topsoil. Gardeners should understand that before the onset of winter, green manure plants must sprout and increase the required amount of green mass. Therefore, the depth of seed placement should be small, crops should be sparse (no more than 2 kg per 100 square meters); fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers.

Moreover, the approach to growing green manure crops planted in the fall should be comprehensive, competent, and sensible.

• Comprehensive- because it is necessary, if possible, to mechanize labor-intensive processes if the field for potatoes occupies several hectares. Tractors and agricultural machines carry out pre-sowing preparation of the soil, sowing, fertilizing.
• Literate- because it is necessary to take into account the timing of sowing, the choice desired culture for green organics, the type and composition of the soil. Peas love neutral ground, lupins will grow anywhere except barren clay, sainfoin will thrive even in a field with heavy soil containing a lot of stones.
• healthy- because the amount of costs for growing green manure should not be much more than the profit from increasing the yield of potatoes.

Spring planting green manure and further care

You can also use green manure for potatoes in the spring. They need to be sown around April and mowed no later than 2-3 weeks before planting. potato. This period is necessary so that the plants can thoroughly rot and give all the necessary nutrients to the soil. It is necessary to strictly ensure that green manure does not form seeds, because after that they can become the main source of weed spread and instead of good, they will only bring harm.

So what's the right way to do it? It is necessary to sow the site in early spring, when the ice crust comes off the soil surface and its upper (30-50 mm) layer thaws. For one hundred square meters of land, no more than 2 kg of green manure will be needed. Any cold-resistant siderats are suitable for sowing, for example, fodder peas, mustard, phacelia and oats. When the time comes to plant potatoes, these plants will already have time to grow required amount greenery. When a couple of weeks remain before planting potatoes, green manure must be embedded in the soil: plow to a depth of 60-80 mm on heavy soils, or 120-160 mm on light soils. It is necessary to close up green manure until they begin to bloom, and even more so - until seeds begin to form on them. If it is not possible to plow the site, then green manure can be embedded in the soil in another way - cut at a depth of 20-30 mm with a flat cutter or chopper and leave it in the garden. After waiting a few weeks, you can start planting work. Planting potatoes after green manure differs from the usual method by a shallower depth of embedding it in the soil. Planting potatoes after green manure should be no deeper than 50-60 mm. It will be convenient to plant it in shallow grooves made by a flat cutter, and plant mustard between the rows, which will do several useful things at once: loosen the soil, retain the necessary moisture in it, prevent weeds from developing and scare off pests. When the potato and mustard bushes grow to the same size, the mustard should be chopped so that it does not oppress the potatoes.

Features of the use of green manure

Beginner gardeners need to know how to properly apply green manure crops, to avoid mistakes that will cross out all the effort expended. There are voluminous scientific works that describe in detail, but boringly, the method of enriching the fertile layer with "green fertilizers". Is there simple recommendations, including simple rules for execution:

If the stems of green manure plants began to coarsen and turn into powerful shoots- an excessive green mass became visible to the eye - the overgrowing ground part needs to be mowed in time. Because the biomass that did not have time to decompose for winter period, will become a source of all kinds of fungal and viral diseases potato fruits.

If green manure crops are sown in small areas, then it is better to scatter them by hand, and not to sow with manual seeders. Loose seedlings will more reliably protect potato ridges from weeds.

You can not plant plants for organic after related garden crops. For example, the predecessor of the potato was the pea. This plot cannot be sown after harvesting peas leguminous plants: clover, vetch, lupine. They share common pests and diseases that can thrive on a newly planted crop.

Siderates, in the absence of manure - there is no alternative

Once the most valuable organic fertilizer manure was considered, which was stored in huge quantities near livestock farms of cattle. And humus fertilized all couples on collective farms, as well as vegetable gardens Dachnikov and subsidiary farms. For this, a set of special agricultural machines was created, and the process was completely mechanized. But those days are gone. For a long time there is no public herd, and with it mountains of humus have disappeared. Manure has become the scarcest and rather expensive organic fertilizer. And then they began to sow green manure more actively. After all, without organic feeding none cultivated plant will not bear fruit normally. Hope for mineral fertilizers is groundless, unpromising, groundless. Groundless - because mineral fertilizers have risen in price and not every gardener can afford to fertilize several acres with them. Unpromising - because the production of fertilizers in Russia is focused on the foreign market. Groundless - because every gardener strives to grow healthy, organic vegetables, berries and fruits on his plot.

Siderates for potatoes are able to increase the crop yield without additional fertilizers by 50-60 kg per hundred square meters. And in terms of saturation, 3 kg of green mass can be compared with 1.5 kg of manure. Therefore, we advise all gardeners to enrich in a similar way country cottage area and enjoy a great harvest every year.

Bean green manure for potatoes

Vika

Vetch or mouse peas is a fast growing plant with a short growing season. Such attractive features make it possible to include vetch in a mixture with other green manure plants. These include rye, rapeseed, white mustard, oats and ryegrass. legume family plants, which include vetch, is able to accumulate nitrogen in the nodules of the root system. When vetch roots rot, nitrogen saturates the top layer, and potatoes are consumed from it. Acting as an element of a mixture of green manure, vetch contributes to obtaining optimal composition humus, which is formed after the decomposition of green biomass.

sweet clover

This plant has remarkable qualities: unpretentious to soil and weather, hardy, grows and develops rapidly. A powerful root system accumulates nitrogen well and deepens into the ground by a meter or more. This circumstance allows not to dig up the fertile layer after cutting and removing the stems. It will be loose without additional cultivation. It is used as a decoction method of using green manure, as its roots are much more useful for potatoes than the ground part.

Cruciferous green manure after potatoes

Mustard

White White Mustard is planted in the fall a few weeks before hard frost sets in. This frost-resistant plant with long roots not only fertilizes the ground, but also improves the conditions for the development of soil microflora and worms. As a result, the structure of the fertile layer becomes loose, saturated with air and nutrients. After mustard, the potato yield is guaranteed to increase. Possessing also a powerful ground part, white mustard grows and develops rapidly. A mixture of mustard and vetch gives excellent results for feeding potatoes with organic matter. To accelerate the decay of mowed green mass, it is recommended to spray it with an aqueous solution of a biostimulator, for example, Baikal. Mustard rids the fertile layer of harmful insects (wireworm, beetle larvae) and inhibits weeds.

radish

Oil radish is characterized by fast-growing tops. In one and a half to two months, it is able to increase its ground part by 4-5 times. She is also famous for her ability to drown out all weeds, including the indestructible creeping wheatgrass. The radish also successfully cleans the fertile layer from putrefactive bacteria and insect pests. For this root crop, soft earth is needed, so the area for potatoes must first be loosened. Seeding rate is 300 grams per acre. A month after the entrances, the radish, together with the tops, is dug up with a shovel or a flat cutter.

Cereal siderates for potatoes

oats

Oats are a grain crop that is cold tolerant and loves moist soil. Green organic matter from oats is rich in elements (potassium and nitrogen) that potatoes need. With the help of this cereal, you can create a loose fertile layer with good air and water permeability on heavy soils. The effectiveness of oats is greatly enhanced by the mixture of its seeds with vetch or pea peas, as well as added to them ammonium nitrate in small doses. In this case, plowing green mass into the ground should be done at the beginning of the formation of buds in vetch or peas.

Rye

Winter rye is considered a good soil sanitizer. She successfully fights against nematodes and phytophthora. With the help of rye, you can improve the potato allotment by fighting harmful bacteria and insects. This cereal is famous for its good green mass - tender and juicy, quickly decomposing and saturating the soil with phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen. Powerful roots destroy the compacted structure of the soil, make it loose, absorbing a lot of moisture and air. One of the most important advantages of rye is the conversion of phosphorus into a form that is easily absorbed by potatoes. Sow this cereal at the end of August. Close up in the ground in early spring, when the growth of its crops reaches 20-25 centimeters in height. This usually happens in early May. And after two weeks, you can plant potatoes.

Experienced gardeners “feed” seedlings of potato root crops with green manure in spring and summer. So white mustard is planted between the rows, which will protect the earth from the scorching sun, retain moisture, and drive away harmful insects.

Processing Roses After Opening in Spring Encyclopedia of Roses

Phytosporin has nothing to do with it at all !!! This is a concentrate useful mushrooms” to suppress the “harmful”. And first of all, you need to clearly understand. that it “works” only under conditions of stable positive average daily temperatures. I will not write about Gamair and Alirin. I rarely use them. but it remains in my memory that they are used when spraying in the summer on vegetative plants. So all this has nothing to do with prevention before landing.
Before planting, a local rose grower recommended that I “overdo it” and soak her seedlings of OKS in a bucket in a bucket with such a weak concentration blue vitriol(1 tablespoon = 20 g per incomplete bucket of water), and hold the seedlings for 10 minutes with roots. and then run away. Did it a couple of times. then it stopped. I do not see special meaning. In general, first of all, we must ask ourselves the question - what diseases are we afraid of, what are we going to prevent? Rust - then it makes sense to see if it will immediately switch to Falcon, but what is the probability of getting infected seedlings? MR - in our climate, for example, it is not common on roses, but you can easily arrange it with an excess of nitrogen. Emergency - you just can't get rid of it. and primarily because of the humidity of the climate, is it possible to prevent it during planting - I think. what is not. Well, LMR - this also needs to be monitored with the growth of the seedling. So I am against fungicide-baiting new seedlings. The exception is, of course, cases of buying already diseased roses with all the signs. I bought such a seedling from an American Honey Dijon with leaves and flowers and numerous spots of state of emergency, I had to treat and keep in a pot in quarantine.

Scab apple and pear treatment disease prevention

The causative agents of pear and apple scab are close relatives, but the fungus from the pear will never pass to the apple tree, and the scab of the apple tree will not pass to the pear.

Unlike apple scab, pear infection can overwinter not only in fallen leaves, but also on affected shoots. Infection begins even when the buds open. Therefore, scab appears on a pear in spring earlier than on an apple tree.
But the methods of dealing with these diseases are the same.

What contributes to the development of scab on apple and pear trees

The development of the disease is always favored by cold, rainy weather in spring and rainy cool summer.
in hot and dry summer apple trees may not be infected with scab. Spores germinate on fruits and leaves only under certain conditions. The process itself and the degree of contamination depend on humidity and air temperature.
Moreover, humidity is determined not only by rain, but also by dew at night. Therefore, for gardeners, it is not uncommon for a tree to be damaged by scab, even in a hot, dry summer, but with heavy dew.

Blooming apple trees.

The first signs of the disease

Characteristic black spots with a velvety coating do not immediately appear on the leaves. At first, the disease on the leaves is noticeable in the form of indistinct, rounded, blurry chlorotic spots. By this time, the fungus had already managed to cause harm, starting to destroy plant tissues.
After a few days, the spots become visible signs dark spots with a characteristic velvety coating. At favorable conditions the fungus spreads throughout the crown.

Prevention of apple and pear scab

The crowns of trees should be well lit by the sun, quickly blown by the wind in wet weather. This requires annual pruning. A well-lit and quickly blown crown of an apple tree is less susceptible to infection.

Trunk circles are best kept under black fallow during the entire growing season. This reduces the harmfulness of the scab.

Almost the only source of spring infection is fallen leaves affected by scab in the past season. In order to protect your trees from the disease, you need to carefully collect and plant all the fallen leaves in the ground in the fall, dig the aisles with the leaves embedded in the soil. On pears, not only leaves should be destroyed, but shoots affected by scab.

Pear shoot affected by scab

If you find it difficult to dig up the ground, you can do something a little different. Spray the fallen leaves and tree trunks with a 7% solution of urea (700 g per bucket of water), this spraying destroys the infection well.

For the prevention of scab of apple and pear trees, it is useful to spray the trees with a preparation Agate - 25 K(3 grams per bucket of water). This spraying should be done during bud break. It should be noted that the process of bud break is very short, only 2-3 days. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare for processing in advance so that everything is done on time.

How to treat apple and pear scab

If the disease is just beginning, or manifests itself weakly, apple trees can be processed Agate - 25 K or Zircon.

Treatment with "Bordeaux mixture"

The most famous and proven way to treat apple and pear scab is Bordeaux liquid. The effect of Bordeaux liquid lasts up to two weeks, so 6-7 treatments have to be done in one season.

The very first spraying is done before bud break. (300 gr. blue vitriol, 350 gr. lime diluted in a bucket of water)

Subsequent treatments are carried out every two weeks. The concentration of the solution is made weaker (100 g of copper sulfate, 100 g of lime per bucket of water) Bordeaux liquid can be replaced with any other copper-containing preparation.

Spraying apple trees.

Treatment with systemic drugs

Speed In one season, it is permissible to make two treatments with this drug. Treatments are carried out with an interval of 2 weeks, before flowering and immediately after flowering (2 ml per 10 liters of water). The drug retains its effect for 20 days.

Strobe."Strobi" is used to treat scab of apple, pear, powdery mildew. During the summer, up to 3 treatments can be carried out, the interval is 2 weeks. The duration of the drug is 35 days. The use of "Strobi" can be combined with other fungicides.

Horus. The drug is effective at low + 3 - 10 * C temperatures, it is not washed off by rain. Treatments are carried out twice per season, at bud break and at the very end of flowering. The validity period is 30 days.

Treatment with mineral fertilizers

Scab can be treated with min. fertilizers. In this case, foliar feeding of plants is carried out simultaneously with the treatment. Trees are sprayed with a solution of any of these fertilizers:

• Ammonium nitrate, concentration 10%
• Ammonium sulfate, concentration 10%
• Potassium chloride, concentration 3 - 10%
• Potassium sulfate, concentration 3 - 10%
• Potassium nitrate, concentration 5 - 15%
• Potassium salt, concentration 5 - 10%

Complex treatment

For best results, a holistic approach to treating scab should be used.

To do this, trees are treated in the fall with one of the mine solutions. fertilizer (as described above). Processing is carried out after harvesting, before leaf fall. The air temperature must not be lower than +4*С. This will contribute to the destruction of other pests, and even increase the yield of the apple tree.

In the spring, before flowering, trees and tree trunks are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (or any other copper-containing preparation).

After flowering, the trees are sprayed with some kind of fungicide (strobi, soon) or any other.

To make gardening easier, choose varieties of apple and pear trees that are resistant to this common disease.