Bathroom refurbishment. Where to start repairs in the bathroom and toilet: basic preparatory work

You see that your plumbing unit is in poor condition. But where to start renovating the bathroom in order to achieve the maximum result? Today we will talk about the preparation and the main stages of repair, the sequence of work and the importance of each step.

• 1 Consecutive steps of bathroom renovation
  • 1.1 Repair planning
  • 1.2 Purchasing bathroom renovation materials
  • 1.3 Dismantling
  • 1.4 Working with hidden communications in the bathroom
  • 1.5 Waterproofing
  • 1.6 Leveling the surfaces of the bathroom
  • 1.7 Finishing touches of repair

Bathroom renovation steps

All repairs performed by oneself or with the help of specialists can be divided into several stages. Moreover, it is extremely important to follow the specified sequence. Violation of the steps entails unpleasant consequences, and ignoring some steps can negatively affect the bathroom in a month or a couple of years.

Vitya
How to start a bathroom renovation with your own hands?

To successfully complete the repair of the bathroom and toilet with your own hands, it is important to observe correct sequence works. In particular, one cannot neglect a number of preparatory procedures, on which the quality of the overall space design process depends. What are these procedures? Project preparation, procurement of materials and equipment, dismantling old finish- we understand and watch a video on how to perform these works in order to start repairs correctly.

Drawing up a project plan

First of all, you need to decide how you want to see the bathroom and toilet after the repair is completed, and state your idea in the form of a project plan. It can be drawn up both on a sheet of paper and using a computer program.

In both cases, before taking on a project, the following measurements must be taken:

• height and depth of the room;
• the width of each wall;
• width and length of the floor and ceiling;
• the dimensions of the window opening;
• doorway dimensions.

First of all, take all the necessary measurements

• or ;
• furniture;
• switches and sockets;

Important! Separately, in the project, it is necessary to designate the layout of all communications: water and sewer pipes, ventilation system, electrical wiring.

Choice of materials and equipment

When the plan-project with measurements on hand, proceed to the choice of "filling" the bathroom and toilet: finishing materials, plumbing fixtures, furniture and other things.

Decide what materials will be used for wall, floor and ceiling cladding. Considering the area of ​​​​the surfaces to be decorated, calculate how many of these or other finishing materials will be needed for the bathroom and toilet. Be sure to add 10-15% to the data obtained in case of unforeseen deformation of the cladding used.

Advice. Bathroom - a room with specific operating conditions: high humidity, temperature fluctuations, special requirements regarding hygiene. So don't skimp on Decoration Materials- cheap lining will not stand difficult conditions and will last a very short time.

Focusing on the same project plan, select plumbing fixtures to replace old equipment. When buying products, consider the angle of the water and sewer pipes in your room in order to avoid unnecessary difficulties when installing and connecting plumbing.

Dismantling of coatings

Repair procedures in the bathroom and toilet must be preceded by the dismantling of all facing coatings: the walls must be cleaned to concrete or brick, the ceiling and floor to floor slabs. If this is not done, you can not count on the durability of the finish, because after some time the layer between the new and old materials will make itself felt.

Dismantling of the old coating

Particular attention deserves the dismantling of tiles. So, if you do not plan to use facing material repeatedly, it can be quickly removed with a perforator. If you want to save most of the tile, pre-moisten all the seams with plenty of water, clean them thoroughly with a knife, and then remove one tile at a time with a spatula and a hammer.

Important! When working with tiles, do not forget about safety measures: use goggles, thick clothing and gloves.

At this stage, if necessary, old electrical wiring is cut out and unusable pipes are dismantled.

Remember that the right start is essential condition Successful renovation of the bathroom and toilet. That is why, before starting direct work, it is imperative to complete a number of preparatory procedures: planning, purchasing materials and equipment, dismantling old coatings - pay maximum attention to each process so that the new repair pleases long years.

Mistakes in the repair of the bathroom and toilet: video

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is worth considering in any case: payment for work is at least 50% of the cost of materials, that is, self-repair will cost at least one and a half times cheaper, and repairing a bathroom and toilet is expensive in itself. But you need to approach the matter with all responsibility: repairing a bathroom requires not only thorough knowledge, but also quite high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of self-repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or a company that is ready to repair the bathroom inexpensively compared to your estimated costs, then contact them. In any case, we begin preparations for repairs with a study of prices.

Prices and costs

Materials for bathroom renovation must be chosen carefully. Except normal settings, the coefficient of moisture absorption matters (a bathroom is a room with high humidity), the coefficient of thermal expansion (sudden temperature changes are frequent in the bathroom) and porosity - it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can’t count on “if only it’s cheaper” in any way.

Most likely, it will not be possible to find exact data on the parameters of materials, and it is difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so you should choose materials specifically designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. The prices for materials suitable for bathroom renovation are approximately the following:

1. Floor tiles - from 40 rubles / piece (30x30 cm) made in the CIS and from 60 rubles / piece made in Europe with not the best quality, but often the best decor.
2. Tiles for walls - the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is smaller.
3. Ceramic granite tiles - from 50 rubles / piece.
4. Glue, cross-stitches, grout for tiles - plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
5. Glass-magnesite sheet (SML) 1220x2440 mm - from 250 rubles / sheet.
6. Laminate - from 300 rubles / board 300x2950 mm.
7. Self-leveling floor - from 220 rubles / 10 liters of finished compound.
8. The same, with the effect of warming (ThermoPlast compound) - from 640 rubles / sq.m.
9. Teak or larch floor - from 500 rubles / sq.m.
10. Polypropylene pipes PPN for cold water– from 24 rubles/sq.m.
11. Same PPR for hot water(reinforced) - from 35 rubles / sq.m.
12. Sewer pipes 50 mm - from 45 rubles / sq.m.
13. Fittings for pipelines and shut-off valves– 60% of the pipe price.
14. PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles / pack of 5 liters.

Based on these prices and knowing the area of ​​​​the floor, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to renovate a bathroom on your own. When calculating, you need to take into account the following:

• You will not need all the names of the materials. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below in the description of the stages of work.
• All of these materials are equivalent in terms of the quality of the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
• For the battle and waste of small tiles, a margin of 3-5% should be given by the piece: say, 300 pieces come out over the area. on the floor. You need to buy 310-315. If a small bathroom is being renovated, 5-7% should be put on retreat and battle.
• waste board materials is calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see below for sections.
• For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.), you need to add 35-40% to the amount received.
• The total do-it-yourself work time will be at least 2 weeks for the bath and toilet and at least 2 months when replacing the floor screed.
• Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice of names and manufacturers.

Adviсe:

1. Focusing on prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only the total cost of the work, but also their prices for individual materials. Suppliers give a discount to good craftsmen, and prices will be lower than store prices. If it comes out more expensive, turn to someone else: before you are either greedy hacks, or clumsy.
2. When choosing a heated towel rail, consider a custom stainless steel option. Chrome-plated brass is most often more expensive, and other varieties are either very expensive (as, for example, with additional electric heating) or are of no good quality.
3. Also consider buying a faucet with an infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when you bring your hands to it and gives water in advance set temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are about 50% (half!) of water and 35-40% of electricity for heating it.

Sequence of work

Let's say you decide that you are independent economical repair bathroom is up to you. In this case, you need to know that bathroom renovation work is carried out in a certain sequence:

1. The choice of the number and range of plumbing fixtures.
2. Development of design and choice of its colors.
3. Quantity calculation and purchase of finishing materials.
4. Room preparation.
5. Revision of the condition of the floor and the choice of a method for its repair.
6. Procurement of materials for floor repair.
7. Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
8. Laying of pipelines.
9. Electrical wiring.
10. and ceiling.
11. Ceiling decoration: insulation and cladding.
12. Floor covering.
13. Wall finishing: cladding, grouting, sealing corners.
14. Ventilation installation.
15. Installation and installation of plumbing.

As you can see, the recommended sequence of work is somewhat different from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; we, before describing how to make repairs in the bathroom, will additionally clarify some important points:

• A warm, damp bath is a favorable environment for the reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods like drywall on the crate are not considered: any blind cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a hotbed of infection.
• According to the degree of risk of electric shock, a bathroom is a particularly dangerous room: high humidity, high temperature, electrically conductive (wet with any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the issue of sockets and switches in the bathroom is no longer fraught with a risk to life and a considerable fine. How to get around this limitation without formally violating the rules and without endangering your life is described in detail in another article; here we give only general guidelines.
• When planning work in the bathroom, you should in every possible way avoid the use of ordinary commercial wood, parts and fasteners made of simple steel with any coating, aluminum and other corrosive materials at all times. high humidity or absorbent materials.
• In a small apartment, it makes complete sense to install a shower cabin instead of the previous bath; possibly combined with a corner sitting bath. At current prices for drinking water and hot water supply, residents of budget housing do not often want to soak in the bath, and in a small bathroom, this frees up space for a washing machine.

Let's start repairing

Plumbing and design

How to start a bathroom renovation with your own hands? From the development of its design, and design - from the choice of plumbing. We will not be wisecracking about the combination of high and low matters: the complexity of the repair and the cost of it largely depend on these stages. For example: a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, but requires tiles for wall cladding of increased smoothness and without relief, otherwise dirt will slowly spread along the walls from the stand under it. A bathtub faucet also makes it easier to work with pipes, but then you need a separate washbasin faucet.

It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only report the fact: in the same apartments of the same house, the bathrooms are approximately the same in appearance, with the same materials from the same supplier, the repair cost differs by up to 20%. Given the total cost of such an expensive object as a bathroom, the amount is considerable. So - we think, we consider, we estimate.

It can also be noticed that in ordinary house you don’t even have to think about a mixer built into the wall: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid at the design stage of the building. In typical houses, it is unacceptable to hollow out a niche for it.

materials

Pipes

Only suitable material for pipes - polypropylene. Metal-plastic is more expensive and, in terms of technical and economic indicators, is more suitable for or extended pipelines with many bends. They are not observed in the bathroom, but the gaskets in fittings for metal-plastic will someday flow, but propylene can be welded into a solid monolith and hidden in the walls without fear.

As for PVC or polyethylene, pipes made of them are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap short-lived buildings. Steel pipes are still the cheapest, but, as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in an apartment or a small private house, all their cheapness comes to naught.

Advice: when choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a caliper. Otherwise, it may turn out that instead of one expensive diamond drill, you will have to buy two.

Fittings and fittings

It is worth talking about fittings for propylene especially. In the bathroom, where access to even open connections is difficult, fittings should only be used from solid plastic. The transition to metal is permissible only when connected to consumers, for example, a boiler (see fig.). It is with the help of such fittings that you can assemble a one-piece water intake and hide it out of sight without thinking about leaks. Of course, this requires a special soldering iron.

Butt jointing of pipes is completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if you need to connect two pipe sections, then this is also done using a special coupling.

Shut-off valves - ball, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the figure on the right. For connection with metal - a branch pipe with thickened walls and a thread in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes, a metal threaded insert weakens over time, squeezes out and a leak appears.

Tile

For floor the best choice- porcelain tile. It is only slightly more expensive than tile, which costs a penny in a small area, but much stronger and not slippery even with a smooth surface. The last thing in the bathroom is vital: fractures and head injuries of those who slip in the bathroom take no time. last place in emergency medical statistics.

When buying, be sure to check the accuracy of the dimensions and the condition of the surface of the tiles:

1. Demand from the seller several pieces from different packages. Refuses - go to another.
2. Put the tiles on the butt on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the top edge. If in 3-4 pairs the difference in size does not exceed 1 mm, it can be taken from this batch after checking the “face” and glaze.
3. Also, in pairs, we apply the tiles with their front surfaces to each other. There should not be a hillock, “trough” or “propeller” visible to the eye.
4. Next, we take a tile, bring it close to our eyes and look along its surface against the light. There are dots, cracks, a microrainbow - we reject it: in the bathroom it will soon become overgrown with dirt, and you won’t clean it off.

Such high requirements for bathroom tiles are explained not so much by aesthetics as by hygiene: pollution invisible to the eye will become a hotbed of infection, and under the bathroom it will be possible to control the condition of the surface, and it is difficult to wash it. Therefore, it is better not to consider options for “alternative” products at all.

Tool and glue

Glue for tiles is better to take slowly drying - 12-24 hours. With self-laying, this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws without compromising the quality of the coating. Hygiene is again in the first place: the tile can still hold firmly, but in a tiny sink under it, microbes will find a cozy and inaccessible home for you.

The spatula for glue must be selected with the pitch and depth of the teeth indicated on the glue package. If there are no such indications, and this glue has been previously tested and proven to be reliable, then the teeth are from 3 to 6 mm. A coarse-toothed trowel for gluing the floor will give too high rustication of glue, and there will probably be cavities under the tiles.

Immediately look at the tile cutter with a core diamond drill for the outer diameter of the purchased pipes. Templates for laying tiles - plastic crosses, it will be difficult to work with others in the bathroom. You don’t have to worry about a trowel for grouting: instead, a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation will do just fine, see below. But be sure to stock up on flannel rags (for the same grout), but it is better to purchase 5-6 cheap microfiber wipes for cleaning glasses.

The rest of the bathroom renovation materials are selected according to the usual construction works criteria.

Room preparation

First of all, you need to decide what to do with the old bathroom. If cast iron - it is better to leave and. If it is tin, but without enamel chips and somehow sealed fistulas, then the best solution would be. Well, it’s better to hand over the “killed tin” for scrap metal and replace it with acrylic. New cast iron is not much better in quality and durability, and you will have to toss it over and over and risk damaging the newly laid decor.

Next, we turn off the water, disconnect the cold pipe after draining to the flush tank and throw temporary houses into the kitchen, at least from the garden watering hose. Sitting completely without water for 10 days at least is for sure "neither there nor here." You just need to remember to close the outlets from the risers at night or when leaving the house: a hose is a hose.

Then we clean everything from the bathroom to the bare walls. We haven't touched the sewers yet. We plug the pipes of the heating pipes suitable for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Disconnecting bathroom wiring junction box; for lighting during operation, you will have to use a portable lamp on an extension cord.

Now you can start cleaning surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work must be done in goggles and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before starting, we tap and try to drill the walls with a CONVENTIONAL drill.

AT panel house some "Brezhnev" projects you can expect a "pleasant" surprise: an internal insulating box made of GWP (gypsum fiber boards). It certainly needs to be removed; you will see the inside of the plates and the crate - you will understand why. Work is being added, and you need to work with the ceiling carefully: substitute props so that it does not collapse.

We knock down the old tile with a perforator with a chisel for concrete. If the tile was laid on a cement mortar, you will have to tinker: there should be no remains of it. paint and upper layer we remove plasters with a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; this is the most dusty and unpleasant part of the work, so it is advisable to send the family somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly or, if already removed, tightly tighten its opening with a film. Otherwise, upon the return of the household, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy again, especially furniture and carpets.

Suddenly, the old plaster turns out to be loose and fragile (in old houses - most often), we remove it to concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky and strong, we level it with a drill with a stripping brush, checking the level. There will be a lot of rigmarole, but in the future it will be compensated. We beat the plaster over the electrical wiring with a puncher with a chisel (do not forget to turn it off in the switch box or on the shield!) And remove the wires.

Floor revision

We remove the remains of the cement substrate under the tile from the floor with a perforator with a chisel. If there is reason not to touch the old screed (for example, the washing machine once completely leaked out, and not a drop leaked to the neighbors), then it is better to use a grinder with a diamond cup (bowl-shaped cleaning wheel). The tool is expensive, but in further work it will pay off with interest.

Then follows a thorough wet cleaning and a close inspection of the old screed. One crack means either with the replacement of the screed, or filling with liquid equalizer. Last in terms of total cost of money, labor and time, optimal, except when it remains or will be installed cast iron bath- its weight with water is more than permissible.

If the bathroom is being renovated in Khrushchev, then the self-leveling floor option turns out to be doubly attractive: for a small room, the cost of even an expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the leveler can be poured directly over the old tile. And we immediately get an insulated floor. The self-leveling floor layer, taking into account shrinkage during hardening of 10%, must be at least 30 mm; from this calculation, the required volume is determined. But anyway you need new waterproofing gender.

Waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film for waterproofing in the bathroom. No wonder they say “waterproofing” and not “vapor barrier” in relation to the bathroom. Here, there is no alternative material - aquaizol or its analogues made of polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water into a bag of such a film, tie it up and hang it in July in the very heart of the Karakum Desert, then the water will not decrease for a month.

Waterproofing joints are either glued with special mastic or welded industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so first you need to practice on the pieces. Insulation is brought to the walls by at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. M; tensile strength of the overlap by weight) with folds (without cuts!) At the corners. After laying the insulation, you can fill the floor or make a new screed.

self-leveling floor

The composition for the self-leveling floor should be taken two-component: the initial, viscous fill - it will not leak to the neighbors - and then the leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.

New screed

To insulate the floor, it is impossible to use expanded clay in the bathroom - it is very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam concrete are also not suitable - they are fragile. In fact, the only option is glass-magnesite boards, LSU, especially since they cost at the level of drywall. The strength of the LSU allows you to immediately lay a reinforcing mesh on them and install beacons.

The composition of the cement mortar for the screed and the technology of its formation have some features:

• Cement - grades not lower than 400.
• Sand - sifted quartz.
• The proportion of sand to cement is 4:1.
• Water - in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
• Additive to water 10% by volume of PVA emulsion.
• Formation - on markers - "beacons" with a layer of 40-50 mm.
• After leveling with the rule - dotirka to smoothness with a semi-terre.

The latter is necessary, since it is impossible to lay a finishing floor along the logs in the bathroom, and in the case of a tiled floor base surface must also be perfectly level. Also note: the newly formed before continuing work must stand for at least 40 days.

Communications

Open pipelines in the bathroom are not pleasing to the eye, and ditching the walls under them is long, dusty and tiring. AT block house it is generally impossible to hide sewage in a strobe: the fittings will not work, but it cannot be violated. In addition, welded joints are not made on sewer pipes, which means that the sewer must be available for inspection and repair, especially since it is most often clogged.

Sloping pipes

Based on these considerations, we obtain a combined solution: we run all the pipes in a bundle along the bottom and close them with a galvanized slope (see the figure on the right). On the slope with silicone, facing tiles are glued to match the walls or contrasting, and with silicone, the slope is glued to the walls and floor after finishing. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and at the end of the work, the slope can be glued back into place. In bathroom typical layout the slope will be needed from the wall to the bath screen as much as about a meter.

Strobes for pipes will also be needed, but in a minimal amount and short vertical ones: one - if the mixer is common; two - if the washbasin has its own mixer; 3-4 - if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best way; the natural place of the boiler in the "house of rest in need"; who has not read "1001 nights" - in the toilet.

We begin the replacement of pipelines from the sewerage: sewage pipes are quickly assembled on seals with sealant. It is quite possible to deal with them in a day, and then solder water pipes without haste. Pipes are foamed in strobes - this is additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid before plastering.

Wiring is carried out with a double-insulated wire, tightened into a corrugation. Most often, inexpensive plastic is used, but if during the repair it is also planned to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment, then metal is desirable - then all the wiring will be shielded, which is good in all respects.

Heating pipes

And what about the heat pipes of the heated towel rail? We change to metal-plastic. Into the wall (strobes are needed shallow) they will leave and come out with a bend; metal-plastic can be bent. The lower adapter fittings will hide under the slope, and the upper ones will remain where they were - on the dryer. Full cycle replacement of heated towel rail.

Plaster

Floor finish

Tiles on the floor are laid on glue, but unlike walls (see below) without seams. Glue spills are immediately removed as described above. The glue is applied with a spatula in longitudinal strokes of approximately 0.25-0.35 sq.m; for tiles 30x30 cm - for one next tile.

Laying is carried out from the door so that the cut tiles are under the bathtub and under the slope covering the pipes. Cropped rows (perhaps the penultimate one-piece) are laid after the glue has hardened under the already laid ones, so as not to stomp on them and not knock down the coating.

Each newly laid tile is tapped with a rubber mallet starting from the previous one. They tap in rows of blows, gradually moving towards the free edge. It is important that there are no voids under the tiles, which is why the glue rusts should be parallel, not very wide and deep.

Complete instructions for laying tiles on the floor and walls.

A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. It is warm, it is even pleasant to stand on it with bare feet. And you can put it at any screed cast iron bath: the pressure of the legs is distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But the wooden floor for the bathroom requires special execution and will cost more than slab.

Suitable woods are teak and larch. After impregnation with PVA emulsion and finish coat liquid ( deep penetration) with acrylic varnish, you can not think about durability: larch piles, with which the coast of Vasilyevsky Island was strengthened even under Peter the Great, are still standing. But boards or tiles for such a floor must be taken tongue-and-groove and laid similarly to the ceiling, but with an indentation from the walls of 20-25 mm for wood swelling. The gap before installing the skirting boards must be filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no cavities!

Wall covering

Most often, bathroom walls are tiled. Porcelain stoneware is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped or spilled on the walls; splashes don't count. Recently, bathroom decoration has become widespread. plastic panels, inexpensive and hygienic, but a description of the materials for it and the methods of work is the subject of a separate article.

The tiling of the walls is carried out with the cutting of the seams, for which, when laying the tiles on the glue, crosses are first inserted between the tiles. The laying technology itself is the same as for the floor. In the tiles that will fall on the outlets of pipes and electrical wiring, holes are drilled in advance with a diamond crown.

Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, then a crown is bought larger than diameter pipes. Otherwise, measuring holes for holes is akin to jewelry.

After the glue hardens, the corners are first sealed with silicone. On a silicone sausage through a thin polyethylene film a piece of electrical cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. The silicone is pressed into the seam and a smooth concave surface is formed. Streaks and influxes of silicone are removed with a rag with vinegar. Additionally, the corner seam can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative overlay on the same silicone.

Cutting seams on a plane is carried out special composition- it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. They take out the crosses, fill the seam, press with a piece of cable (now it is already possible without a film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remnants with flannel or microfiber. Cutting the seams with your finger leaves micro-roughnesses in which dirt will accumulate.

Plumbing, ventilation and electrical

Installation and installation of plumbing fixtures has no features and has been repeatedly described. In particular, you will:

1. , sink, in some cases -.
2. Optional - .

When installing ventilation, you should inspect the old box removed in preparation for repair. In most cases, even the boxes of the very first Khrushchev after cleaning and repainting are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately desirable to install a clapper valve into it: cold blowing in winter is excluded.

From stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom are allowed exhaust fan and ceiling lamp in waterproof version. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-wire cord, with a protective conductor and a Euro plug, with a one-piece sealed (molded) entry into the housing. The washing machine does not apply to stationary electrical installations; its connection when installed in the bathroom -.

About "combination"

Repair of a bathroom combined with a toilet - how to be here? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are enough features for repairing a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion -.

Conclusion

Taking on the repair of the bathroom on your own, you can save a lot: the event is expensive, and the remuneration of workers is a significant share of the costs. But you can miscalculate a lot: the work is complex, responsible, requires both basic knowledge, and good qualifications of the builder.

Video: self-repairing a bathroom lesson

(No ratings yet)

Discussion:

Pavel said:

Odnushki repair in a new building. Agreed with the workers. For two months they have been busy in the room and kitchen without touching the bathroom. I thought the bathroom was the first to be refurbished. I sense something wrong, but I don't know what. Tell me, knowledgeable people, why are they pulling with the bathroom?

Vasily said:

I did a bathroom renovation this summer. I did not dare to hire private traders, but ordered from a company. Very satisfied with the quality, everything is done according to top level, plumbing and tiles bought with discounts through this company. The guarantee was given for 2 years, and they also gave insurance for the entire apartment. In short, do not mess with private traders, there will be only hemorrhoids, and there will be no savings!

Roman said:

During the renovation in the bathroom, I hid all the pipes (polypropylene) in the wall and laid them with tiles, so I don’t have any pipes in the bathroom. It's been 4 years now and no problems. but so much space was saved by the machine and the “moidodyr” washbasin, and the bathtub is tightly pressed against the wall. The main thing is to buy quality material and do the job in good faith. And I don't trust anyone but myself.

Dmitry Rogoza said:

And I had such an interesting story, I live in an apartment on first floor, and Under my apartment, naturally, the basement is not large. Well, the bathroom itself is not big, and therefore I decided to put a shower cabin with my wife in order to save a lot of space in the bathroom, but since the house is old, I decided to look into the basement, I had a constant feeling that we would fail, well, I went down to the basement and there the boards were rotten, the house was old, the floor had to be changed and iron beams put in. Everything seems to have gone well. said:

In terms of the cost of materials and plumbing, the bathroom occupies, perhaps, the first place among other premises of the apartment. Provided, of course, if you do here overhaul. Toilet bowl, bathtub, faucets, shower - all this translates into a pretty penny. Plus, it's labor intensive. if you want. For example. hide water pipes into the wall. but instead new bath- cast iron or steel - can be inserted into an old acrylic liner. the bath will look like new and keep warm well. The ceiling can be sheathed with plastic panels - it will be for many years - beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

Alena Demchenko said:

Hello!!! My husband and I bought a house and decided to start repairing the toilet. We changed all the plumbing to plastic. The pipes that turned out to be hidden under the tiles were hidden, but the sewers, then they made a box from the lining and hid, because no one from the neighbors wanted to change the sewers, they said everything suits them. Everything turned out nice and neat. With a new bathroom, plumbing.

Oksana said:

I have a separate bathroom and in my opinion it is very convenient when the family is large. Both in the bathroom and in the toilet there are tiles on the walls and floor. Glued very neatly without seams. Never heard of this technique before. It turned out awesome! But I chose a glossy tile - it is easily soiled. But after cleaning it looks great! Our equipment is not expensive, but durable - we are satisfied.

Christina said:

We somehow also had to tinker with repairs in the bathroom. Although it can be called a repair with a big stretch ... The fact is that at that time we lived in a rented apartment, to put it mildly, with not very good repair. They decided to change the bath - the old one was in a terrible state. I sent my husband for a new one, but inexpensive. Bought. Brought. Italian. I'm shocked. She is low! Almost up to my knee! Like a bidet, only a big, honest word! I had to think about how to lift it. They came up with) They made a “layer cake” from fiberboard boards lying around in the apartment and polyurethane foam, stacked in turn. And then they just put a bath on them. The design, of course, still had the same view, but it became convenient to use the bathroom. For temporary housing - a great option. Then I also had to clean the sink, so that washing machine got in. But there were no problems with this.

Anna said:

Bathroom renovation is not easy. We completely tore off the old floor, right down to the concrete, because we started pipes for heating, so that there would be a warm floor. This is not an easy task, but it is worth it, there is much more heat in the apartment and you can sit on the tiles. My daughter constantly plays on the floor, so the warm floor is an even bigger plus. By the way, we have such a floor in the corridor, bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Plus, the bathroom and toilet were combined, because there was no space at all.

Elena said:

In general, we left a different bathroom and toilet in exactly the same Khrushchev to our parents. There are two parents, it’s crowded, yes, but who needs to go to the toilet, and who needs to wash. During the repair of the toilet, a box in the form of a useful cabinet with a removable manhole cover was installed on pipes with water meters to view the readings. And they also made a small corner sink with a bidet, although now the door has to be opened outward, everything is at hand.

Said):

I did a renovation last summer in the entire apartment, including the bathroom. The biggest expense went to renovating the bathroom. Despite the excuses of his wife, he himself made a frame for the built-in sink and washing machine, sheathed the frame with moisture-resistant drywall, pasted tiles on all sides into a mosaic. Relatives are generally delighted with the result!

Vadim said:

In our case of repair, the most difficult was, oddly enough, the dismantling of old plumbing. When making repairs, they never ceased to be surprised at the clumsiness of the builders of the house - not a single even angle, everything rests on a word of honor. And in the bathroom, combined, the toilet was so firmly installed that the day was killed for its dismantling. Well, after dismantling, it took as much leveling mortar to level the floor as it did not go to the kitchen!

By clicking the "Add comment" button, I agree to the site.

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than the same renovation made by a team of workers. Therefore, if you have the necessary knowledge, skill, free time and want to save money, then this option is for you. But remember that an inexpensive do-it-yourself bathroom renovation can be inferior in quality to repairs made by professionals.

Preparation for repair

Cheap bathroom renovations are, by definition, do-it-yourself projects. Therefore, preparation for it includes several stages. Let's look at each of them.

Layout and design

First of all, you need to decide on the future design of the bathroom, draw the layout of the bathroom - this will further depend on complex work with pipes and plumbing, and the need for additional wiring.

Cost calculation

Check out the prices for construction markets. So you can understand whether all your ideas are feasible and how they fit into the budget.

For example, we will give a table with the cost of materials for an inexpensive self-repair of a bathroom:

Purchase of materials

You need to buy building materials based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour bath. Volumes necessary materials the seller himself in the market or in a hardware store can tell you.

3-5% is laid on the battle of tiles when repairing a large bathroom and 7% when repairing a small one.

When buying cement, mixtures, sand, grout, putty, sealant or silicone, you need to add 30% to the required volume. Let it be better for you to have an extra bag of dry glue than it ends at a crucial moment.

Stages of work

Bathroom renovation is carried out in a strictly defined sequence:

• Thinking through the interior;
• Determining the number of plumbing fixtures;
• Preparation of the bathroom for renovation work;
• Purchase of building materials;
• Floor preparation (optional: waterproofing, screed, installation of a warm floor system);
• Laying pipes and wiring;
• Plaster;
• Ceiling decoration;
• Floor finishing;
• Wall covering;
• Installation of the ventilation system;
• Bathtub and sink installation.

Let's proceed directly to the repair itself and consider in detail each stage.

materials

Pipes

Independent work with steel pipes fraught with many difficulties, but today it is the most cheap option On the market. Another disadvantage is that such pipes rust inside and they will have to be changed relatively soon.

Tile

Porcelain stoneware is a little more expensive than tile, but its strength is many times higher. Even smooth porcelain stoneware is completely non-slip, which is why we highly recommend choosing it as your flooring.

Tip: When buying, ask a consultant in the store to get 5-6 tiles from different packs and check their sizes.

Instruments

You are doing a DIY bathroom renovation as shown in the video below, so choose a slow drying adhesive. It will allow you to work without haste, eliminate errors in time and control the quality of masonry.

A spatula will fit with 4-6 mm deep teeth unless otherwise indicated on the adhesive label.

Buy a tile cutter with a diamond drill, and for laying porcelain stoneware or tiles with seams it is best to use plastic crosses.

Bathroom preparation

Let's say your last bath is not worn out yet, then you can update it appearance with an acrylic insert. But we recommend sending the old tin "trough" for scrap.

Before you start repairs, turn off the water and strip the bath to the “bare” walls. The wiring will also need to be turned off. During the repair, you can use a portable lamp and an extension cord - this is not usual, but safe.

Clean all walls, ceiling and floor. Start working from top to bottom. Use a respirator when cleaning. The tile is easily removed with a perforator and a chisel. Loose plaster is removed completely, Durable - leveled.

Floor preparation

Also removed from the floor. old tiles and cement backing. If the screed is good, you can leave it; if not, remove it with a puncher. If, upon careful inspection of the screed, you notice only one or two small cracks, they can be eliminated with a liquid equalizer.

The layer of the self-leveling floor should be approximately 3-3.5 cm. But before that, the floor is waterproofed with aquaizol or polyethylene terephthalate.

Important: It is necessary to cover the walls with waterproofing at least 30 cm.

Communications and preparation of walls, ceiling

Pipes

Sewerage should be made taking into account easy access to it for inspection, cleaning, removing blockages and necessary repairs. Therefore, we advise you to run sewer pipes along the bottom, along the walls, and close them with galvanized tiles. Galvanization is attached to silicone and, if necessary, access to pipes can be easily removed using a special knife.

The replacement of all pipes begins precisely with sewerage. You will be able to cope with this task in one, maximum two days, and then proceed to the water pipes.

Wiring

All wires are laid to the plaster. The wire with double insulation is hidden in the corrugation - plastic or metal, depending on the budget.

Plaster

You need to plaster twice. Here, the quality of the work will play a big role, since you are plastering under the cladding. You will have to plaster, as always, starting from top to bottom.

Ceiling insulation

Even in the warm apartment when repairing the bathroom, it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling. This will allow you to avoid the formation of condensate, which, by the way, is the main cause of problems with the safety of the repair.

For this purpose, it is best to use LSU (glass-magnesium sheet) on silicone or special glue. Remember that while it dries, you will need strong supports.

Finishing in the bathroom

Ceiling

This is the most problematic part of the bath. Regardless of your decision to make an inexpensive bathroom renovation, you will have to pay special attention to the ceiling.

Most suitable options for finishing the ceiling - this is an artificial laminate or plastic lining. If you chose the first option, then before gluing the laminate, the inside will need to be treated with a special PVA emulsion. Here you will also need slats, which can be removed only after the adhesive has completely dried.

Floor

Floor tiles are laid on mounting adhesive. Here it is better to avoid the presence of seams. The glue is applied with a spatula to the wrong side of the tile and to the floor itself.

Important: styling floor tiles you need to start from the entrance, so incomplete tiles will hide under the bathroom.

To avoid the appearance of voids under the tile, it must be tapped with a rubber mallet immediately after laying.

Perhaps you have decided to lay a wooden floor in the bathroom. It looks noble, and it is pleasant to walk on it, but this option is much more expensive and more difficult to install and operate. So think twice before choosing this option.

From wood, you can use larch impregnated with PVA and coated with moisture-resistant acrylic varnish. When laying, step back from the wall by 2-3 cm, and then fill this gap with foam and cover with a plinth.

Walls

Usually tiles are chosen for walls. It's over a budget option than porcelain stoneware, and its strength does not play a decisive role here. Wall cladding in the bathroom is done using plastic crosses, which are subsequently removed, and the seams are filled with grout, silicone or sealant.

The tile is laid on the glue, after it dries, the corners are filled with silicone. Excess silicone is immediately removed with vinegar. Sometimes the corners are decorated with special overlays, which are also attached to silicone, but this is not necessary.

Plumbing installation

Installing plumbing fixtures is actually the easiest part of the job. It's much easier than many people think. The whole process is described in detail in the instructions for each item.

First, the bath or shower is installed, then the sink. After the mixers are mounted, water heaters and water meters are installed. The hood and waterproof lamp are installed last. In the photo you can see examples of successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovations.

Video

Sometimes people try to save money and make only selective cosmetic finishes in the living space. But this principle is not entirely acceptable for a bathroom or bathroom. Here it is recommended to renovate the bathroom from scratch in order to avoid serious costs in the future. This is due to the functionality of the premises and the concentration of the main communications. It is about repair from scratch that will be discussed in our article.

What is refurbishment from scratch

When they talk about repairs from scratch, they mean all stages of work in the bathroom:

1. replacement or connection of sewer and water pipes of cold and hot supply;
2. posting electricians on walls and ceilings;
3. wall finishing from the base to the final coating;
4. floor work from screed to finishing layer;
5. ceiling finish;
6. plumbing installation;
7. connection of mixers and household appliances;
8. ventilation system;
9. installation of an interior door;
10. installation of bathroom furniture;
11. filling the space with accessories.

Photos increase, click!

Important! Regardless of the room in which the bathroom is being renovated ( new flat or secondary), from scratch - this means everything is updated to the smallest detail. Such repairs require a careful approach at the design stage, because the costs can be different in absolutely identical bathrooms. It is during this period that it is necessary to decide on the design of the bathroom and understand what materials and components will be needed for the project.

• In new apartments, the developer only makes the connection of communications to the bathroom, and leaves the distribution of engineering structures to the discretion of the residents.
• In apartments that have been renovated for more than five years, communications are usually not in the best condition, which requires their replacement to prevent breakdowns. If you do not carry out a replacement, it will be a pity and costly to eliminate the consequences in the future. For modern renovation in the bathroom from scratch, hidden installation of communications is acceptable so as not to spoil aesthetic appearance premises. Doing this with old pipes is risky. It is more economical to replace old communications with new ones, not forgetting about plumbing.

Sequence of work during the repair from scratch

Having imagined the scale of work when renovating a bathroom from scratch, it is necessary to draw up an estimate. Without a detailed analysis of the space and drawings on paper, it is difficult to compile a list of necessary materials. If you are far from design views and have no experience finishing works entrust the repair of the bathroom from scratch to the experts. Believe me, this option will cost less than reworking after the master of incompetence.

When choosing a team, find out the prices of different companies and stop at the best option for the budget. Typically, the range of services includes plumbing, electrical work. At self repair you will have to invite them to connect water, sewerage and electricity.

Important! Bathroom refurbishment times vary depending on the condition of the space. If a new floor screed is required, the time frame is long so that the solution has time to dry. It also takes time to dry the walls if the alignment is done with plaster on beacons. But to achieve perfect evenness of surfaces is to get beautiful walls, floor without level differences.

When a bathroom is renovated from scratch, there is the possibility of redevelopment:

• combine toilet and bathroom;
• move the door
• change the geometry of the room to a more functional one;
• install underfloor heating;
• add a heating element;
• replace bulky plumbing with a compact option if the space is small.

Important! The choice of materials must be made in advance, because many are brought only to order and the terms can be long. Designer's advice will help to avoid such expectation by offering analogues.

If the repair is done from scratch, then the choice of style is the wishes and tastes of the owner. Here important criterion is the size of the bathroom. Not all styles are suitable for small rooms, but for spacious ones there are a lot of ideas. For any style, it is possible to choose both expensive finishes and budget materials. good quality. And this is an important question when deciding to make repairs from scratch in the bathroom.

If you are going to have major changes in the bathroom, then you should be patient for a certain period. The term depends on the type of work and the experience of the team or home master.

See photo:

Video footage:

Watch a video of finishing a bathroom from scratch.