Pruning fruit trees in the summer in the garden - why is it needed? Tree pruning in summer Summer pruning

Apple trees belong to the most common horticultural crops, but for their successful fruiting, it is necessary to provide the trees with proper care. Pruning an apple tree carries many functions, which are determined by the age of the tree and the goals set. It can be carried out both to form a crown of the correct shape, and to increase the number of fruit-bearing branches or to strengthen the young ones. In addition, proper pruning will provide good sunlight access to the fruit and prepare the tree for winter.

Undoubtedly, pruning an apple tree is a whole science, it will be very difficult to comprehend all the nuances of it at once. It will take years of practice and, of course, the necessary knowledge that this article will equip you with.

How to prune an apple tree

There is no doubt that the apple tree is the most popular and beloved fruit tree in our area, and its fruits, which have a variety of colors, sizes and tastes, are a bottomless well of vitamins.

Figure 1. Pruning according to age

When correct organized care an apple tree can effectively bear fruit every year. Caring for this inhabitant orchard includes not only activities for feeding, loosening, weeding and watering, but also such an important procedure as pruning (Figure 1).

Scheme

There is a theoretically substantiated and practice-proven technology for pruning an apple tree, which says that, first of all, when starting pruning, it is necessary to thin out the crown of the tree. This technique will help to quickly change its illumination and, accordingly, prevent possible mistakes to remove or shorten shoots (Figure 2).

Note: To thin out the crown, it is necessary to cut off one of the branches upper part trunk with all shoots extending from it. Only upon completion of this stage, you can proceed to the actual trimming.

You should know that as a result of pruning, stumps should not remain, which dry out over time, and then begin to rot, turning into a hollow. Therefore, the most acceptable is the cut passing along the influx ring. The exception is old trees due to age-related thinning of the bark. In such specimens, breaks and tearing of the bark occur at the site of cuts under the ring. Therefore, when pruning old trees, you must first file a branch a little further than the ring, forming a stump, and then remove the shoot, moving up the ring and putting a garden saw on the bottom.

Figure 2. Pruning schemes by age and crown type

Remember that any kind of pruning should end with the treatment of fresh wounds using antiseptics. If the garden is young, then this procedure is recommended to be carried out the next day after pruning. But the places of cuts of old and dry shoots should be processed immediately after work is completed.

Kinds

Existing types (techniques) of pruning depend on the age of the trees and include: shaping, pruning for fruiting, as well as rejuvenation (Figure 3). separate view pruning is the removal of dried branches. Let us consider in more detail the features of each of these types.

Figure 3. The main types of cropping

Formative pruning is most often carried out on young trees to give the crown the correct shape. After the crown is formed, fruiting pruning is applied, which can be carried out for several years in a row, until the fruits begin to decrease in size. And finally, rejuvenation is applied to those trees that have stopped their growth, and their crown has begun to dry out.

Note: When removing dried branches, it is necessary to cut them down so that hollows do not form in their place. To this end, it is advised to first cut the branch to the place where the first bud appears, and then file the stump with a garden hacksaw with small teeth so that its direction goes in the direction of the branch to be removed. Then do not forget to lubricate the cut garden pitch.

In addition, depending on the volume of branches or their parts to be removed, there are such types of pruning as shortening and thinning. At the first type of pruning, young, but weak shoots are shortened. The second type involves the removal of branches under the ring and allows you to form a crown of the desired density.

Mistakes when pruning apple trees

Since the technology for pruning an apple tree is quite laborious and complicated, it is not surprising that novice gardeners often make common mistakes.

Let's take a closer look at some of them:

It is an erroneous opinion that a fruit tree needs to be removed only once a year. Remember that a properly formed crown, which is freed from excess or damaged shoots, will bear fruit much better.
Leaving stumps after the cut is also a fairly common mistake. To prevent it, you must remember that you need to try to make the cut so that the tree has at least a partial opportunity to tighten the resulting wound with its own bark. The price of stumps is too high - the destruction of the bark around them, followed by the settlement of fungal spores or harmful insects leads to a weakening of the tree and the formation of a hollow, which, in turn, is the entrance gate for various infections.
The causeless shortening of the shoots of young apple trees leads to the formation of several tops, which, overtaking in growth side shoots, will debilitate them. Therefore, to expand the crown, it is not the shortening of the tops that is carried out, but the removal of the central conductor, or the bending of all vertical branches.
Strong pruning stimulates increased growth when there is no main trunk, and all branches are equally equal and form a kind of bush.

Another common mistake is processing fresh sections. Remember that on a wet surface, the paint does not dry out, but, on the contrary, contributes to the decay of the wood due to the lack of air. Therefore, it is recommended to wait a few days after cutting until the wound dries, and only then treat its surface with a special solution or paint.

apple pruning time

In addition to theoretical knowledge and practical skills in the process itself, it is necessary to know the specific time frame in which it can be carried out. When choosing a period, not only the goals set are taken into account, but also the age of the tree, as well as the weather and climatic conditions of a particular area.

Note: For example, when shaping the crowns of a young garden, you should know that all procedures should be carried out as early as March, before the start of sap flow. The next time could be autumn or winter.

But a more mature garden needs different types pruning, each of which has its own goals. You should be aware that neglecting specific dates often causes low yields or even death. fruit trees. Therefore, novice gardeners should not be ashamed to ask more experienced colleagues for advice and not rush into the work, because some of them can only be carried out at certain periods.

spring pruning

Implementation plan spring pruning apple tree depends on your goals. If the main task is to correctly form the crown, then you need to start by identifying the branches that were damaged in winter period, and if you are striving for a quick restoration of the tree after winter, then you should remove all old and extra branches at an angle from the trunk (skeletal branch). An example of spring pruning is shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4. Features of pruning an apple tree in spring

It should be noted that it is in spring that the juice circulates most actively through the tree trunk, so all work must be done as carefully as possible so as not to harm the plant.

In more detail spring pruning of apple trees is shown in the video.

autumn pruning

All work related to the autumn cleaning of apple trees from excess branches should be completed before the onset of the first frost.

The autumn pruning algorithm is(picture 5):

Removal of large branches (broken and dry);
Thinning weak branches located close to each other;
Cutting branches growing at an acute angle;
Treatment of cut points with garden pitch or oil paint.

Figure 5. Scheme of pruning a garden in autumn

All cut material must be collected and removed so that it does not clog the space around the tree.

pruning in winter

Winter pruning involves activities in the garden late autumn or very in early spring. The main condition of the procedure is the absence of active movement of juice along the stem of the plant. It is these conditions that develop after the leaves fall and before the buds swell.

Note: For this reason, winter pruning is not much different from autumn and spring pruning, although it has its own advantages.

Firstly, in winter the plant is definitely at rest, and secondly, winter time not so intensively saturated with work in the garden, and therefore the gardener has the opportunity to slowly and carefully complete everything necessary procedures to get good results in the future. It is recommended to start with the removal of damaged branches, and then move on to work aimed at eliminating crown thickening. At the same time, dubious branches are cut off completely, since the buds are not yet visible. The only limitation for the procedure in winter is the decrease in air temperature below -15 degrees, when the bark of trees becomes too vulnerable and fragile.

summer pruning

In summer, the tree is in active growing season, so the procedure at this time is not recommended. In addition, fresh cut wounds can attract all sorts of insect pests eager to lay their larvae. Therefore, it is only permissible to light pruning in late May - early June, which will help get rid of competing shoots that form as a continuation of skeletal branches.

Note: To do this, it is necessary to remove all weak shoots and keep the well-developed ones, which are located on the tops of last year's ones. But for future skeletal branches, it is necessary to save shoots located several nodes below the current ones. All excess must be removed.

To weaken or stop the growth of shoots, the length of which is at least 15 cm, and on which there are already 5 or more developed leaves, they are pinched (tweezed). If this procedure is not effective enough, it is repeated for each new branch, on which at least 3 leaves have formed. In addition to tweezing, you can also resort to the method of bending, which helps to accelerate the onset of fruiting.

However, despite everything possible risks, only summer pruning makes it possible to evaluate and correct the results of your work soon after it is carried out. In addition, in summer it is easiest to determine the places of the greatest thickening of the crown and thin it out.

Pruning young apple trees

A young apple tree is cut for the first time immediately after planting to give the crown correct form. And she, in turn, guarantees good fruiting in the future. And since the seedling is still very fragile and vulnerable, maximum care and caution should be exercised when pruning, which is not particularly difficult, however, requires some experience and knowledge.

You should know that thin branches are cut with a pruner, and coarser ones with a garden saw. In this case, the tools must be well sharpened, since the young bark is especially vulnerable. For the same reason, the cut points can only be treated with oil paint and only after several days after the trimming procedure.

crown pruning

The crown of a young apple tree is subject to formative pruning. It is very important to carry it out on time, since it will be extremely difficult to form the crown correctly further. by the most the best option is the arrangement of branches in several tiers and a sparse crown. Such formative pruning of a young tree is carried out annually for 3-4 years, then the interval increases to once every two years.

Crown-forming pruning will not only enable the tree to fully develop, but also improve its future yield. In addition, such a seedling will not need additional support, since its structure will be stable. To achieve this goal, it is recommended to form a base of 5-6 large branches, and shorten the central stem branch. In this case, the height of the trunk should be from 40 to 50 cm.

After the crown of the apple tree has been properly formed, the period of active fruiting begins. However, by the fifth year after planting, tree growth begins to slow down, so it becomes necessary to carry out a specific type of pruning that stimulates the formation of powerful shoots that can withstand a large number of fruits of the so-called overgrowing branches. This result will help to achieve a strong pruning carried out in the spring and summer (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Scheme of pruning apple trees for fruiting

Consider the essence of pruning for fruiting:

In March-April of the first year, the annual lateral growth is cut into four buds. In summer, 1-2 shoots from the apical buds will appear from it, and the lower growth ones will turn into flowers.
A year later, the side branch is pruned into a flower bud.
In the third year, the cut side branch will begin to bear fruit.

In the fourth year, the formation of overgrown branches begins. Over time, they can become thickened, so they should be thinned out by removing weak and located at the bottom of the branches.

Pruning of old apple trees is carried out with a rejuvenating purpose, because the fruits are formed only on the upper branches, shading the lower ones. Therefore, the tree must be unloaded and conditions must be provided for the development of the lower branches (Figure 7).

Note: Unlike pruning young trees, you will need to be less careful than pruning. physical strength, because you will have to remove not only branches, but also entire trunks, that is, everything that has become an unbearable burden for the tree. Start by clearing the main branches and trunk of inward growing shoots that absorb the life force of the tree.

Thin out the upper branches, thus improving their ventilation and illumination. Take note that a one-time cleaning may not give the desired result, so it will have to be repeated for several years in a row until the tree comes to life. However, you should be aware that only a third of all branches can be deleted at a time. Violation of this rule will lead to the death of the fruit tree.

Pruning a running apple tree: video

It often happens that the old apple tree no longer bears fruit, but how nice it is to sit under its impressive spreading crown on a hot summer day or arrange a warm gathering summer evening. And yet, taking up a lot of space in the garden, the old tree runs the risk of being put under the saw. Do not rush to part with your old and reliable friend, it is better to help him rejuvenate a little. running trees they need to reduce the crown, which will not only increase the level of illumination in the lower and inner parts, but also contribute to its better ventilation, which has a positive effect on the health of the apple tree.

Figure 7. Scheme of anti-aging pruning old apple tree

How to prune an old apple tree and thin out its crown correctly? Cutting out thick branches that grow upwards, as well as the central branch, will help to achieve the desired result. The top is cut off at a height of about 2 meters from the last thick bough from below, and their tops are cut off at the upper branches. The place where the lower branches are cut is where they begin their direction to the ground. In addition to lowering the crown, it must be thinned out by removing stunted and damaged branches, as well as diseased, hanging, rubbing or crossed shoots, as well as branches that grow inside the crown. Old branches should be shortened, but thick lower branches cannot be cut, because the tree may die due to large wounds formed.

Since pruning old apple trees is a rather painstaking task, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video, which shows how to properly carry out this procedure.

Discussion of garden pruning usually comes down to controversy: when is it preferable to do it - in late autumn or early spring. Question "Is it possible to prune an apple tree in summer?" not even discussed.

The classic advice to perform this operation only during the dormant period is based solely on tradition - "It's always been done that way". In confirmation, an iron argument is given - "juice goes in summer".

It is impossible to deny this, but the juice in the summer is not only near garden trees. But has anyone seen, for example, a maple shriveled from a broken branch? Vitality cultivated plants in no way inferior to the "savages".

Carrying out pruning during the dormant period of the garden is quite reasonable. And spring pruning can still be combined with tree grafting.

If spring pruning missed, pruning carried out outside of these tight timelines.

Is it possible to prune an apple tree in summer?

Pruning apple trees in the summer for beginners is most often needed in two cases:

Got it from the previous owner old garden in a very unsightly condition;
Self-planted young trees the seller advised "cut to size".

But bad luck, the timing of the spring pruning "according to all the rules" was missed. Need not be afraid go against the established "rules", perform this operation necessary for the garden late spring or summer.

At the summer pruning of the garden there are important benefits- very young branches, preferably just pinch nails of two fingers. Such a pinch is not at all does not damage the tree. On the contrary, new shoots at the beginning of summer grow even more intensively.

Advantages of the method:

After summer pruning, flower buds do not awaken in winter during thaws;
Flowering period for the garden next year shifts by about a week (this is quite enough to protect the ovaries from possible late frosts);
Thinning the crown in the summer allows you to provide full coverage of the internal branches of the tree, which positively affects not only the ripening of the fruit, but also improves the ventilation of the tree crown (the main preventive measure against fungal diseases of the apple tree);
Summer pruning is carried out not so much with a hacksaw and secateurs as with a garden knife. You can even break out unnecessary green shoots.
Summer pruning is much easier for a novice gardener than in cold period when the tree stands without leaves.

Important! Most often on household plots the trees are planted too densely. Trees are in contact with crowns and shade each other.

This cruel competition in the garden for light and water can be significantly loosen with simple tricks summer pruning.

Apple trees are in contact with crowns.

July

Is it possible to prune an apple tree in July? Undoubtedly. This is, first of all, removal of fatty shoots growing at an acute angle to the central stem.

Pruning an apple tree in July according to such a simplified scheme is not difficult even for beginner gardeners. The purpose of this operation is eliminate all growth for the previous 2 years of fruiting.

August

Is it possible to prune an apple tree in August? The answer is definitely positive. Operations with growing branches are practically no different from previous summer months.

Important! The apple tree should enter a healthy dormant period.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the tree - all diseased and pest-affected branches must be cut and removed from the site. This is easier to do than to cure the onset of the disease. Moreover, these weakened branches will not survive the winter anyway.

Pruning schemes for old apple trees

If the annual growth of shoots less than 30 centimeters and her fruits lost marketable condition - the apple tree needs anti-aging pruning.

Wherein remove branches:

Growing at an acute angle to the trunk (less than 60 degrees);
In vertically growing, a 2-year increase is removed.

Rejuvenating pruning.

On a moribund tree, a quality crop can be resumed if a simple technique on all skeletal branches:

Cut an old branch (more than 3 years old) into a stump about 5-6 centimeters;
From the awakened shoots, the most successful one is chosen and a new branch is formed from it.

Young apple trees

The purpose of the formative pruning of a young apple tree is to control the ratio of the length of the central shoot and side branches to prevent their competition. So side branches should be trimmed regularly.

Pruning scheme for young apple trees.

Young apple trees in summer delete:

Sick and dry branches;
Part of the flower ovaries (so as not to weaken the young tree).

leave:

Continuation shoots are the strongest at the tops of last year;
Skeletal branches - located 2-3 nodes below the continuation shoots.

Everything else is removed, and young trees are processed anti-stress drug(doesn't matter which one).

How summer pruning of apple trees is carried out - the video will show you in detail:

As soon as the tree begins to actively grow again ( end of June), necessary pinch strong shoots to weaken the force of growth and induce the formation of fruit buds.

The preferred option would be if instead of pinching the shoots bend and fix the branches in a horizontal position. Such an operation accelerates the entry of young apple trees into fruiting.

Thus, the answer to the question "is it possible to prune the branches of an apple tree in summer?" will also be positive.

Pruning an apple tree in summer: a video for beginners

How can cropping be replaced?

Using summer pruning methods, you can practically do without traditional gardening tools:

Hacksaws;
Secateurs;
garden knife.

Manual pinching has already been mentioned above. This is not just a gentle method of shaping the garden. It is extremely convenient in that it does not require any pre-training- "tool" is always with you.

An alternative to pruning branches can be method of forming the crown "in a bend"- transfer of branches to fruiting. This procedure must be carried out until the end of June(before the formation of fruit buds).

For this improperly growing(at an acute angle to the trunk) branches deflected to a horizontal position and fix them.

The easiest way to do this is in two ways:

Secure with twine or ribbon;
Hanging the appropriate load.

Advice! There is no need to protect the cortex from stretching pressure. Outflow becomes more difficult in the pinched area nutrients and there is an additional formation of fruit buds. The banding method is based on this property to increase productivity.

Within about a month or two, the branches will “remember” their new location and the latches can be removed.

The formation of the crown "in the bend".

Columnar varieties

Rules for pruning columnar trees easier. Since they form few side branches, it is enough only control their growth pinching off the excess.

All shoots growing from the trunk perpendicular, necessary delete.

Particular attention should be paid to growth in June is a period accelerated growth tree.

Attention! In no case should you cut off the apical kidney. This will cause completely unnecessary branching and thickening of the column.

Pruning apple trees in summer for beginners

Pruning apple trees in the summer is meaningless if you consider it as a one-time campaign - "cut and forgot for a year."

The main task of pruning- cut so that after it was possible during the season do without trimming tools, only pinching(excluding cases of removal of diseased branches),

After pruning, do not rush to cover everything with garden pitch (or other mastic). small cuts up to a centimeter in diameter don't need it at all.

Generally speaking, cuts larger area- too, but it is very difficult to fight this opinion. At least do not apply immediately let the wood dry naturally for a few days.

About how the summer pruning of apple trees for beginners is carried out - the video below:

Important! A fresh cut smeared with garden mastic is a breeding ground for fungal diseases!

More information about you can get from this article.

Conclusion

Now that you know if you can prune an apple tree in summer, no need to be afraid to apply any innovation in your garden plot.

To get started, you can simply try the technique on one tree, which grows closest. It will remind of itself more often than others, catching the eye. Passing by, immediately pluck the excess.

young apple trees two-three year olds start shaping right away "in the bend". If you bend a branch in spring or until mid-summer, fruit buds form on it by autumn.

With this approach to shaping autumn pruning may not be needed at all.

Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for the care of cultural garden trees and not letting them run wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives required amount light and your own space without disturbing others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure that has great importance for plant health and crop quality. It regulates the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with others agrotechnical methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

roots;
wood;
leaves;
fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds in different time, directing forces:

to strengthen the root system;
to increase green mass;
for intensive growth;
for flowering and fruiting;
to protect against disease;
to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health is changing. In this regard, the goals for which “surgical intervention” is done are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:

- delays aging and prolongs life.
Formative- models appearance crowns.
Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.

Formative pruning goals:

acceleration of the onset of flowering;
increase in productivity;
well-groomed appearance;
ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
increased endurance;
ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.

Formative pruning is carried out on a young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, give it back the opportunity further development recovery pruning will help. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
if tree long time not cut off and now has a rather neglected look;
when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbite.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and the best time is the beginning of summer, when the tree wakes up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.

supportive

held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
avoid exposure of large branches;
rid the skeletal branches of the young shoots that annoy them;
maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time to start pruning fruit trees. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:

tree species;
condition of fruit trees.

If the plant is planted in autumn, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If the frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly marked.

apple trees- the most stable crops, which are least affected by others unfavourable conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are also prone to freezing at the ends in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.

They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

the earliest when you can start pruning is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.

Summer

The concept of "summer pruning" includes several tricks carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:

pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, summer pruning of fruit trees facilitates work in spring and autumn, helps to save nutrients inside the plants and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned to form from a living growing tree various items, such as furniture, using various agricultural practices, including pruning.

autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly with sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if the need arose for sanitary pruning, the above considerations are losing their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Those affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees are not well treated autumn pruning, and some may die or become very ill after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frosts are rare and winters are mild. She is good because:

plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong wind, icing of branches or excessive weight of snow, and, all the more, threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not have a question whether it can be cut off. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw that was cut, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special means intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints other than oil paints - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

Thank you for your opinion!

Write in the comments what questions you did not receive an answer to, we will definitely respond!

You can recommend the article to your friends!

It can last for weeks and months, each of the receptions summer pruning timed to a certain phase of tree development and must be carried out in a very short time.

You can not expect a positive effect from filizene, tweezing, green pruning or thinning of fruits carried out at the wrong time. Untimely summer pruning can give a negative result.

There is usually not enough time during the short period of summer pruning, as there is a lot of other work in the garden at this time, so it is not carried out to the proper extent. However, it is necessary to find the possibility of a wider application of at least the most effective methods of summer pruning.

Since winter pruning continues for a long time and is carried out at a time when there is enough free time, it is practically the main one.

But the importance of summer pruning is sometimes underestimated. Often the most necessary things are not carried out, which would make it possible to use its great advantages, at least in relation to young trees, where summer pruning techniques can be carried out quickly and with low cost labor.

With summer pruning, wounds heal faster. Summer pruning corrects and supplements the previous winter pruning, directs nutrients to the development of useful organs, timely removing unnecessary parts. If this is not done during summer pruning, then the unnecessary parts should be removed at the next winter pruning. However, in this case, the useful parts will remain weak or underdeveloped.

summer pruning is very important event, and for young trees characterized by strong bud germination and shoot productivity, it is even mandatory.

Both in the nursery and in the first years after planting the trees in the garden, techniques such as filizene, tweezing, bending, changing the angle of the branches and green pruning should be used, which ensure the formation of a crown from healthy, well-developed and well-placed skeletal branches and ramifications. evenly covered with overgrown wood.

Summer pruning should be applied to all young trees, but it is especially effective for young and vigorous peach trees, to which it is applied until their growth becomes moderate and the number of excess and thickening branches decreases.

Summer pruning is also necessary when growing dwarf and shaped fruit trees. It contributes both to the formation of the crown and the covering of skeletal branches and ramifications with overgrown wood, and the formation of fruit twigs and buds and, ultimately, obtaining large yields of high-quality fruits.

Those gardeners who prune a variety of fruit bushes and the trees in the summer, claim it's the most the best time to remove growth. The article will help beginners to better understand all the nuances. After reviewing the detailed diagram, optimal timing and watching videos everything will become clear and understandable.

Benefits of summer pruning

Gardeners, who already have considerable experience, try to prune trees in certain time of the year. Everyone does it based on own experience. Proponents of cutting shoots in the summer season focus on the following benefits:

Fast-growing shoots take a lot of strength from the tree. Removing them in the summer allows all the nutrients to be directed to the fruit.
AT summer months easier to form a crown. So more light penetrates the fruits and it is more convenient to collect them.
Leaves, after pruning during this period, also receive more light and air. This prevents the development of various diseases.

Many gardeners claim that it is easier to form a tree crown in summer.

A timely thinned crown allows you to well spray literally every leaf with the right preparations.
Trees that have been pruned in the summer show many new buds.

Pruning in the summer is work with green shoots that have not yet had time to lignify. If we talk about the timing, then it is carried out no later than July.

Basic tricks

AT summer period gardeners do light work. These include pinching and tweezing, as well as breaking, breaking and, of course, trimming.

Pinching - with its help, the growth of this year's shoots is stopped for 1.5-2 weeks. At the same time, a section with 3-5 leaves on top is removed. Most often, the technique is used in situations where it is difficult to decide on the need to completely remove the branch, and this question remains open until the fall. Pinching can be repeated after the shoot starts growing again.

Attention! Pinch only those shoots that grow up or inside the tree.

The pinching time will depend on various parameters: the age, variety and strength of the tree. The main thing here is to catch the time of intensive growth of young shoots.

Pinching - when carrying out this technique, the branch is shortened to the remainder of 3-5 leaves from below. When a new shoot grows from the upper bud, it is also cut off, leaving 2-3 leaves. By tweezing, an accelerated formation of wood around the mother branch is achieved, which contributes to a significant increase in yield. Reception is suitable for young shoots extending from the uterine branches.

Scheme: pruning fruit trees

Vylomka - manipulation is carried out manually, without the help of tools. At the same time, absolutely unnecessary green shoots of the current year, growing vertically, are removed. Reception allows better penetration sunlight deep into the crown.

Attention! The damages received during the summer breakout are very quickly healed without additional treatment.

Break - the technique is used when it is necessary to give the shoot the desired direction of growth. It is performed simply: with a fingernail they press on a certain place and flatten it. Wound tissue is formed here very quickly. In the future, it will fix the escape in the right direction. You can break and lignified shoots. In this case, the branches are bent so that the bark bursts, and the middle remains intact. Some skill is required here - lignified branches often simply break.

Pruning is a wonderful technique with which to achieve the formation of a new flower bud at the base of the shoot. It is carried out as follows: the shoot, which is not needed to form the crown, is cut short, leaving only 2 leaves. As a result, after 1-2 weeks, a new branch is obtained from the upper sinus. It is also cut short. Ultimately, a month later, at the base of the shoot appears flower bud.

Attention! In the rainy season, pruning does not bring the expected result. Under the influence of high humidity, both buds germinate, as a result of which the flower bud is not formed.

Features of pruning trees of different ages

For young trees, the main thing in pruning is to ensure active growth. To do this, remove all processes that interfere with the growth of the main shoots. This procedure should be carried out after 2-3 years, adhering to the following rules:

During summer pruning, diseased and drying branches should be removed at the same time. This will provide a greater flow of nutrients to healthy shoots that need them.
All shoots should be cut at an acute angle. So there is less chance of infection.

Be sure to remove diseased and dried branches

Trees middle age cut a little differently and do it for the purpose of rejuvenation. The main signs that a plant needs a similar procedure are 2 main indicators:

The growth of shoots is less than 30 cm per year, which indicates a significant decrease.
The tree begins to produce a low-quality crop.

As recommended experienced gardeners, all branches of the old tree should be tried to be directed horizontally. This will significantly improve the quality and quantity of fruits. Shoots that are more than 3 years old should be shortened to a length of 6 m. After the appearance of young branches on them, the strongest ones are left. All of the above procedures will ensure a decent harvest from an older tree.

Attention! Sections that are more than 1 cm in diameter must be smoothed with a knife and painted over with oil paint on drying oil.

There are still disputes between gardeners about the need for pruning fruit trees in the summer. It is difficult to come to an unequivocal opinion here. However, some amateurs regularly perform the procedure at this time of the year, getting good results.

home > mechanical engineering