Tree plants for plot plan. Setting up an orchard

The layout of the fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place for a garden with a high standing of groundwater. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work.

woodcroft orchard

• Clear the area of ​​old stumps, wild shrubs, stones and other debris.
• Plow the area deep or dig with the turnover of the formation.
• Water to encourage weeds to emerge. After seedlings, carry out deep cultivation and level the area.
• In parallel, give the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agrotechnical measures.
• According to the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn processing. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting pit (mineral fertilizers, humus or biohumus, slaked lime, biological products from pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of your garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cottage.

• If the zoning is joint, then a garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the cultures of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
• In the second zone, it is better to place berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
• In the third zone, the actual orchard will be planted. From the neighbors, it should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m, so as not to obscure their site.

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and a brief description of fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their placement on the plot area under the numbers.

pickleslee

Berry layout

When breaking down the berry in the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in a landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally better placed along the boundaries of the site. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

The density of planting berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops.

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. Growing, raspberries occupy the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning overgrowth, the culture is interchanged, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
• Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red through a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to berries. Honeysuckle and shadberry, when used as a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry bush at a distance of up to 2 meters.

Thomas Generazio

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Orchard layout

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout of fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost.

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle. Enough 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties of different ripening periods. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General Approaches to Planting a Garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting pits according to your scheme, prepare near each that fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting hole preparation

In the fall, you can only prepare a planting hole of approximate size, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, depending on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit.

Soil preparation

Near each hole, mix the top layer of soil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

mainetoday

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak the seedlings in a root or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to follow the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loamy soils (especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root neck and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

starkbros

How to determine the root neck

1. In a young seedling, it is good to wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
2. In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet cloth and, after the wet zone dries, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of the inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

• It is impossible to use semi-rotted manure when planting, only humus mixed with soil.
• You can not often water the seedlings with small norms of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
• You can not water the seedlings with cold water (from an artesian).
• It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, and especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
• After planting, it is impossible to mulch the near-trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to rot and the plant to die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What to do when planting seedlings

• Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products from diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
• Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
• From hares and other rodents, protect the trunk with a mesh chain-link or spruce branches, deepening the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
• After each sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

Many of our compatriots have their own country plots or summer cottages. It is rare that a land owner does not take the opportunity to grow their own crops to indulge in natural food. However, summer residents are not always satisfied with the location of plantings on their acres, which affects the convenience of caring for the garden, and, accordingly, the harvest.

Development of a site project and garden planning on 6 acres

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden on a suburban area is just as important as the correct one, therefore, special attention must be paid to this step on the path to arranging a country dwelling. To successfully design a garden and vegetable garden, it is necessary to draw up on paper.

On the plan, in addition to the house or summer cottage, it is necessary to place all the necessary plantings that are planned to be grown.

There should be a place for fruit trees and shrubs, and for vegetables, as well as for decorative flowers. For the convenience of harvesting and caring for plants, it is recommended to divide the land plot into several parts.

The decorative area should be located closest in order to constantly delight the owners and decorate the house, and the fruit and berry and vegetable area should be some distance away from the house.

Site landscape design option

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden begins with the choice of a suitable place near the house. In order for the choice to be made correctly, it is necessary to analyze some existing conditions:

Choosing a place for fruit and berry crops

Confusion when choosing a place for certain shrubs is highly undesirable, and can lead to a poor harvest, so drawing up a plan for the location of fruit and berry plantations will help to avoid this. When drawing up a garden plan for 10-15 acres, the following should be considered:

Location on the site of ornamental plantings

For many summer residents, a suburban area is not only a place for growing crops. Most city dwellers go out of town to relax from the daily hustle and bustle, so a favorable environment is very necessary for them.

In order for the restoration of strength after a hard week of work to be most productive, you should take a responsible attitude to the layout of the ornamental garden. Consider the key points that you need to pay attention to when organizing a site:

Garden layout

Not a single plot for a country house can do without a garden.

The original version of the arrangement of the garden in the country

Particularly industrious grow on it everything that can be accommodated, while others only provide themselves with fresh greens for the summer table. Be that as it may, when planning vegetable beds, you cannot do without drawing up a plan. Consider the main features of the layout of the garden:

• Given that most vegetables are photophilous, it is necessary to provide them with sufficient light;
• Particular attention should be paid to watering the beds. To do this, it is necessary to provide an automatic irrigation system, or simply install containers to collect rainwater;
• It is necessary to think over the location of the plantings in such a way that it is convenient to reach the middle of the garden. The optimal width is 1.2 meters;
• The distance between the beds should be convenient for movement. As a rule, the width of the tracks is made at least half a meter;
• In order not to litter the area with cut leaves and leaves, you should think about creating a compost pit.

Nowadays, an increasing number of people are resorting to growing vegetables in and on summer cottages.

After all, only if we have received crops from our beds, we can have no doubts about the quality of the cultivated greens, root and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The layout of the orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it must be taken into account that the most successful places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze the entire site in detail, this will help to rationally place the objects of landscape style, it includes both completed constructions and plantings, and future ones.

Drawing in your mind a picture of your future site, you need to create a draft project and not miss a single subtlety. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the site, which is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose a flat or slightly sloping area for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden, located from the south, and in the absence of such an opportunity, you need to choose another, most importantly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is required to analyze the land, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can adversely affect the root system of vegetation. You can make a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in the yard, study in detail the conditions for their growth to find out if they get along. Plan the number of ridges, think about whether you need someone's help or is it feasible to cope with the landings on your own.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank sheet of your gardener's diary, you need to sketch out the assumption of the garden. It can be front, side or rear relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north side to the south for better lighting and mean three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after the other or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of ​​the site:

• First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this variation of zoning. In the first zone we lay a garden, its vegetation will not obscure the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
• In the next zone, it is more successful to place berries, their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow emanating from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
• In the part of the third order, we plant fruit. From the previous one, it should be in the interval of about 3 m, so that there is no threat of their shading.

In the diary, you can record the names and the main nature of the fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate their location in the garden with numbers.

Berry layout

When breaking up a berry bush on a plot, one should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Blackcurrant grows normally surrounded by the rest of the vegetation, and sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum, hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berries around the perimeter of the site. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence, or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the site with their location.

The thickening of the berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its strength to diseases and the formation of the crop:

• Raspberries are seated in tight rows, at intervals of half a meter from each other and at intervals of a meter and a half in rows. Raspberry vegetation, growing, fills the aisles, the former aisles are freed from overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the places of crops by cutting off the shoots, returning, after three years, to the former site of growth.
• Yoshta and black currant are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red at meter intervals. Large bushy vegetation will shade each other, the spines of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and shadberry, like a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, it can be even thicker, and in the berry bush at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of one or another berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to please the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close jars of fragrant jam for winter storage.

A well-planned berry plot normally grows and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and crown formation is also an important activity. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary, we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crops, allocating conditionally 4 sq. m. for each copy. from the common area. No need to thicken the landings. Plants will grow and become a hindrance to each other.

Let the landing pits be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental horticultural vegetation in the household plot.

In terms of dimensions, these species are smaller, and yields are equal to high cultivated vegetation. For these types and care is easier, they are resistant to ailments, the most resistant in cold weather. Early, middle and late varietal species should grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies all season and so that it is possible to process and store grown fruits for the winter.

Of the garden cultivated vegetation, two sweet cherries (early and late) are quite enough. Instead of its average varietal species, it is more successful to plant two cherries.

They give out crops after early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft a different species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots are enough, which are frost-resistant varietal species. Three apple trees, in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to save a place for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to please with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not to fall ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to diseases, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in the special literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact the experts. A garden filled with low-quality vegetation will add work and trouble, but will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful ridges and correctly place them in your garden

Formats

They can be all kinds, only the dimensions of the site can limit their size. Ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or curly. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it, in height they can be low or high.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Reasons:

• These beds are warm. On the lower layer of materials that are rapidly composted (branches, rags, paper, cardboard), a layer of materials is laid, they are composted more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste). Then it should be spilled with water, and covered with soil. In the process of decay, the ridge will begin to emit heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
• The sun's rays warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
• If you want to protect your upcoming crop from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the lower layer.
• Such ridges do not need to be dug. After all, they are not dug, but made.
• It is possible to harvest twice a season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce, before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are successful in processing, because care is simplified. And the length can not be limited. According to the Mitlider method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. With its growth, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and the main thing is that it receives more solar energy, and even in the cloudy summer season, the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

In the ridges arranged by this species, you can plant a variety of crops: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sidewalls, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to properly arrange the ridges in this version?

It is more successful to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is advised to place the ridges on a slope on the south side, and garden vegetation from the north direction.

layout

For her literacy, you need to consider:

• The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetables per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
• Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to fulfill the plan qualitatively.
• If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
• Plan the planting of crops so that the taller vegetation is on the north side of the site. So lower species will not grow in shading.

Common missteps of a novice gardener:

• Overly thickened plantings: it is necessary to provide seedlings with thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not favorably affect its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and ailments. Gaps between rows and vegetation in a row (planting patterns) are provided for each of the crops separately.
• The lack of work on the elimination of weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because weed grass, already resistant and actively growing, deprives a significant proportion of the nutritional components of the crop.
• Vegetable ridges in shading: negatively affects the quality of vegetation, some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components, growing in shading. Let the light on the ridges in the garden be present for at least 6 hours daily. In particular, vegetation uses the light of the afternoon. So, it’s lucky if at this time they are not in the shade.
• Overdose of dressings: overfed vegetable vegetation is much more prone to ailments. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the culture, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. It is imperative that strict adherence to the terms and norms of adding dressings is necessary, taking into account the preferences of the culture.
• Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turned out to be cool and wet, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
• Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: warm-loving, capricious vegetables (

Like any responsible event, laying the future garden on the site begins with planning: how carefully you think through all the details of the placement of capital and outbuildings, how responsibly you treat the choice of a place for trees, shrubs, vegetable and berry plants, will depend on the abundance harvest, and the comfort of your stay in the country.

When planning a garden and vegetable garden, there are many nuances to take into account, so take your time, calculate several suitable options at once, and then choose the best one.

If you want your garden to not only bear fruit, but also look wonderful, you need to make a little effort and a little imagination already when laying it. This is a very responsible job: it includes a large number of processes running simultaneously, besides, preparatory work and planting must be carried out in a short time.

The laying of a garden deserves special attention also because the mistakes made at the same time are difficult to correct in the future, since fruit trees are planted once for many years.

How to fill your garden with beautiful and prolific plants? In order to properly plan the backyard garden, use the advice of experienced summer residents presented on this page.

Planning the territory of the future garden

Whichever path you choose, the laying of the future garden should begin with a clear layout of the territory. All plants must be planted immediately in a permanent place, as transplants greatly harm the plants. In order not to be mistaken, think over the site plan to the smallest detail and sketch all your ideas.

Use your site measurements to plan your garden and orchard by drawing a plan to scale. Such care is needed not only to accurately determine the landing site. You can easily calculate the number of selected plants.

When planning the various zones of their garden, they usually try to make sure that the playground is clearly visible from the kitchen or from the recreation area.

It doesn’t matter if you are planning a berry garden or a vegetable garden on your site or not - it is simply necessary to make a working area. After all, the garden will be planted with plants that need care.

In the working area there is a barn with inventory, a pit for a compost heap. And since this zone is not very attractive, it can be hidden by plants.

When the entire site is divided into zones and measurements are made on the ground, you need to think about communication between the zones, that is, about paths and paths. It is better if the tracks do not run at right angles, but begin to bend smoothly.

Walk along the marked paths, check: is everything convenient? If all is well, you can move on to placing plants around the site.

If you cannot imagine your life without fresh vegetables, then take a well-lit place for the garden, located not on the aisle and in such a way that the trees do not interfere with the normal growth of vegetables.

When planning the design of the garden, in order for the plantings to please you not only with their appearance, but also with the harvest, trees are placed at a distance of 4 m from each other, shrubs - 1.5-2 m. To create hedges, plants are planted at shorter intervals, depending on the type of fence.

A recreation area can be located next to the house. Berry bushes located on it, formed on trellises, and fruit trees on trunks will create a special comfort. Do not place a pool or other body of water near the playground.

Look at the photo - when planning paths in the garden, you need to take into account that they must provide access to every corner of the site:

The width of the path should be sufficient so that a garden wheelbarrow can pass through it normally.

Here is one example of successful garden planning:

• • Low hedge of chaenomeles
  • on the lawn

• Hozblok
• paved paths
• Compost
• Garden of columnar apple trees
• hedge from
• Patio
• Golden currant hedge
• Lawn
• Arch with Actinidia
• Playground
• flower garden
• Composition of bushes - on boles and ordinary
• Garden
• Gooseberry
• coastal plants
• Path covered with gravel
• plums
• Three pear trees

Planning a place to plant plants in the garden

As experienced gardeners advise, when drawing up a site plan, it is important to be guided not only by your desires, but also by the needs of plants, therefore, when planning a garden, it is important to choose the right place for planting them.

Any plant for normal growth and development needs good lighting. However, this does not mean that they must roast all day in the open sun.

As shown in the photo, when planning a vegetable garden, trees should only be placed in an open area:

This is especially true for plants formed in the form of trellises, cordons and palmettes. This need is due to the fact that when shading, the branches will grow unevenly, one-sidedly, strongly stretched, and, therefore, it will be difficult to form and further care for the plantations.

In addition, mature trees have a limited number of branches where overgrown branches can form. To extend the productive period, it is important to take care of good lighting of these particular branches, because they bear fruit.

When planning a garden on a plot, shrubs can be content with a shaded position, as they are less demanding on lighting. In addition, the root system of shrubs is more superficial, and therefore more demanding on moisture conditions.

A plan for a garden is like a pattern for sewing a dress. To begin with, we will measure the site or take as a basis the plan issued to you at the BTI. Next, we transfer the site plan on a graph paper sheet at a scale of 1:100, that is, 1 cm on paper will correspond to 1 m of land. The plan should indicate the boundaries of the site, the gate and the gate, the house and other garden buildings (bathhouse, shed, gazebo, etc.), those trees and large shrubs that you decide to leave, hedges, if any, doors and windows of the house. Be sure to put on paper the location of the well, electrical cables, sewer manhole and other necessary things. We will transfer the paths and paved areas to the plan, but only those that we intend to leave. Let's outline the functional zones on the plan. Routes for moving around the garden should connect them with the house and among themselves, as well as provide access to those places from where we will admire the garden.

Preliminary sketch after site survey

Necessary:

• mask a bad view of neighboring buildings from the windows of the house;
• check the views from the windows of the garden, make them especially picturesque;
• find a place for a reservoir and a gazebo near it;
• arrange a small herb garden near the patio;
• plant two apple trees (early and medium ripening).

The house is the dominant element of any site. It sets the style and scale of the garden, for example: if the house is large, the paths cannot be narrow, and the flower beds are small. The garden and the house should look organically together. Trees and shrubs that cover the house when viewed from the gate, as well as decorating its facade with vines, will not only not damage your house, but also make the overall impression of the garden more interesting, and if the house is very modest, this is the only way to ennoble it. Ideally, one should strive to ensure that the house does not stick out like a finger, but is, as it were, dissolved in the landscape, forming a worthy duo of architecture and wildlife. It does not at all follow from this that the house should be small, and it does not have to be one-story, even if the plot is tiny.

But it is important to decorate the corners of the building, this can be done with the help of a tree-shrub group, it is also necessary to cover the basement of the house, the plants should not close the windows of the house, and higher plants can be placed in the piers.

The founder of Muskau Park, the largest English-style landscape park in Central Europe, Hermann von Pückler-Muskau believed that in order for buildings to make a harmonious impression, they should be visually covered with plants by at least a third.

There is another extreme, when the house is completely hidden from view by vegetation. Such a house gives the impression of abandonment, and you don’t want to look there.

The unified color scheme of the house and the space around it contributes to the creation of a particularly integral impression of this part of the garden. The white balusters of the terrace, the blooming jasmine bush, the white border of the leaves of the 'Elegentissima' derain, while the greenish, but soon whitening caps of the hydrangea tree inflorescences - what a harmonious and elegant garden picture, and the plants are the most simple and ordinary.

A large solid house looks very dignified, but does not suppress the space around due to the fact that adult conifers hug it, visually covering a large part. The house and its respectable surroundings do not compete with each other, but make exactly the impression that is required.

You can also fit a house into a garden with the help of plants shaped like palmettes, as well as with the help of vines.

On the plan you need to put everything that you want to add to it. After the plan is sketched out at least approximately, we will try to wander through it. A harmonious garden is a series of successive species. It is very important to control which garden pictures open from the gate, from the front door and windows of the house, from the recreation area, etc.

In the garden, it is not necessary to plant every square centimeter of the area, it is important to ensure the alternation and the correct ratio of open and closed spaces. Open space is what is below human eye level, such as a lawn, paving, pond. Enclosed space - what is above eye level, these are trees, high hedges, etc. There is a rule: in the northern countries, including in central Russia, the ratio of closed and open spaces should be 1: 2 (the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house from consideration excluded), that is, the area of ​​open spaces should be approximately twice as large as the area of ​​closed spaces.

In a well-planned garden, you want to take a walk, sit in those places where the most beautiful views open, and see interesting garden plants.

When you start planning a garden with your own hands, you need to correctly measure the size of the area adjacent to the house with the ideas you have. The smaller the size of the plot, the more difficult the layout of the garden, since you will have to take care to perform competent zoning without overloading the territory with excesses. Landscape tricks will come to the rescue here, they are simply irreplaceable when planning a garden. And one of them is planning with a grid.

How to properly plan a garden on a plot (with photo)

Before you properly plan a garden that pleases with proportional proportions and strict cleanliness of lines, you need to carry out functional zoning and thereby make the space suitable and comfortable for your family.

When planning a garden, the design of which is dominated by clear lines is convenient, logical and comfortable, geometric solutions are especially suitable for small areas, in addition, it is a good way to connect the house with the garden. The smaller the garden area, the more concise its plan should be.

Photo gallery

Look at the photo: the layout of the garden using simple geometric shapes such as a circle or a square is typical not only for the classic regular version, it is also suitable for a completely modern garden.

Before you plan the garden on the site, stock up on a scale grid. Its step can be chosen based on the architectural features of the house, if any, often this is the distance between the windows of the house. The size of the grid can vary, but it is always based on the size of the house: if the house is large, then the grid is large, and vice versa. You can take the distance between the fence posts as a step.

A garden plot designed with an unnecessarily fine grid will be overloaded with details. For small gardens up to 6 acres, its size is 2-3 m.

The grid is just a tool, but an extremely important tool, you can try to create a harmonious and logical garden design with it, it will tell you where to start designing.

Views of the garden layout using the scale grid

There are three types of grid layouts. The most common is the rectangular version, it is the most obvious, often very simple, sometimes almost primitive, but extremely functional.

The grid in the rectangular variant always starts from the facade of the house, in this variant all the lines of the garden (paths, borders of flower beds, paving, lawns) are parallel or perpendicular to the facade of the house.

Photo gallery

Pay attention to the photo on how to plan a garden using diagonal lines: this type of layout not only allows you to come up with original design solutions, but also helps to visually enlarge the garden space, how to push its boundaries, because the diagonal is always larger than the side of the rectangle. In this case, the garden lines are also straight, but at a 45° angle to the front of the house. Plans made using diagonals bring lightness and dynamics to the design of the garden, they are always interesting.

The third option for garden planning is circular, designing a garden with circles is not easy, but the result is impressive, so it's worth trying.

When designing your own garden, I advise you not to be too lazy to make all three possible options and even their combinations, and then choose the most impressive one.

If you're thinking about how to plan your garden, but you absolutely hate straight lines, then by designing your garden using a grid, you can easily make them smooth by rounding the corners.

The form is the most important part of any object, information about color, texture, size is secondary in relation to the form. Any design work should begin with the choice of form. Of all the existing forms, the circle and the ball are closest to man, because such forms are created by nature itself - remember, for example, an apple, the sun, the full moon, the wheel and the millstone have long been known and familiar. The circle symbolizes enlightenment, perfection, the yin-yang symbols are also enclosed in a circle.

The round shape is suitable for decorating any garden element - a lawn, a paved area, a flower arrangement, a pond. If the recreation area or lawn is given the shape of a circle, and the paths are designed in the form of smooth lines, which are parts of circles of various diameters, such a garden looks spacious and comfortable.

A round-shaped playground looks great against the background of a round lawn, it is paved with rectangular clinker bricks in a circle, which once again emphasizes its shape. The circle as an element of garden design creates intimacy and privacy so necessary in this place. By the way, there is also a round umbrella, which not only protects the owners of the garden and their guests from the sun, but also repeats the shape of a paved area. Paving is not the only option for covering a recreation area; wooden round flooring, slightly raised above the ground, is also very good.

In a modern garden, pergolas are widely used, most often their pillars are located in a straight line, but this is not the only possible option, pergolas look interesting, the bases of the pillars of which are located in a circle.

A circle is the ideal shape for a lawn. It is this geometric figure that organizes the effect of space even in a small area. The dense surroundings of shrubs and herbaceous perennials create ideal conditions for privacy in such a garden.

Garden layout: landscape design tricks

If you are designing a garden using geometric lines and shapes, they should be clearly read not only on the plan, but also when taking it out to nature, everything should be verified to the centimeter, even a slight negligence in this case is absolutely inappropriate.

For a proper garden layout, a combination of the two options is often used. For example, in the case of a rectangular pond with quarter-circle cutouts at the corners, this is a combination of rectangular and circular options. Spectacular cutouts are emphasized by sheared "hemispheres" of shrubs. In our climatic zone, they can be made from Thunberg's barberry, Japanese spirea, brilliant cotoneaster, Schmidt's alpine currant, snowberry, western spherical thuja is good for this purpose, for example, the Globosa variety. One of the corners of the reservoir is almost adjoined by a recreation area in the form of a circle with a round table with chairs in the middle.

Another illustration to the theme of a successful combination of rectangular and circular layout. The paved platform is in the form of a rectangle combined with a semicircle adjoining it. It is adjoined by a pond, consisting of two symmetrical parts, each also using straight lines and a quarter of a circle. The "roundness" of the composition is emphasized by boxwood balls in ceramic pots, in our climate the same effect can be achieved by trimming the dwarf Japanese spirea of ​​the Little Princes variety, whose leaves are as small as boxwood leaves.

Whether we realize it or not, our eye picks out geometric shapes in the garden, they are good for harmonizing space, the repetition of such elements allows us to make any design more stylish and calm.