When can you spray trees from pests. Spring spraying of fruit trees and shrubs

There is a common misconception that the main thing is to plant a garden, after which you can calmly wait for the harvest without investing time and effort in tree care. Like all myths, this one has little to do with reality.

In order for the garden to bestow fruits on the owners, you will have to work hard, in particular, spray fruit trees in a timely manner in the spring. Processing must be carried out skillfully, using solutions with strictly defined concentrations of active substances, which will exclude the possibility of harming plants.

Spray target

The purpose of the procedure is to feed with nutritious minerals and control pests that settle on trees in abundance. In addition to insects, in the process of spraying they fight viral, fungal diseases of trees.

It is known that the root system is approximately equal in size to the crown of trees. Presenting it visually, it becomes clear that it is almost impossible to provide nutrition for the roots with one watering.

Spraying trees allows you to apply nutrients much more efficiently, because the leaves have a huge total surface area, they have a high absorption capacity.

In addition, a good apparatus ensures that chemicals reach all parts of the trunks, branches, cuttings and the back of the leaves, which is very useful for controlling larvae and adult pests.

Spraying time

Processing of fruit trees should be carried out at certain times of the year according to the schedule. Spontaneous spraying is not as effective. The frequency of work largely depends on climatic conditions, rainfall, age and condition of the garden. Experienced amateurs and professionals are able to determine the need of trees for this or that help by several signs. The main spraying work is carried out in the warm season, starting from early spring and ending with the period following the fall of the leaves. For convenience, you can make an approximate calendar so as not to miss the deadlines.

spring

The first spraying can be done before the buds open, at the very beginning of March, when the temperature begins to rise to small positive values. Insects harmful to trees at this early time are still in a state of hibernation, so chemicals act on trunks and branches, fixing particles of the drug on them.

At the end of March, in most regions, the temperature rises so much that pests begin to wake up and develop activity. At the same time, the first buds appear, which obliges the gardener to carefully select the dosage of drugs for processing.

Note! Before you start spraying, you should shake off the old remaining foliage from the branches, carefully collect it on the ground and discard. And it’s better to treat it with lime before that or burn it in a specially designated furnace so that diseases do not multiply.

Infected areas remain on old leaves, which can become a source of tree infection in the coming season. If there are moldy pieces of bark with moss or lichen on the trunks, they must be scraped off with a scraper. In young gardens, there are no such problems; it usually takes years for noticeable lichen lesions to propagate.

Gooseberry bushes, currants are poured with boiling water from a watering can at the very beginning of March (until the buds swell). This is a folk method of pest control (mites, powdery mildew).

The next spring spraying is done at the time of flowering, when many insects are activated, therefore, you need to get rid of them immediately and try to increase the resistance of trees to pests with special chemicals.

The final spring spraying is carried out after the end of flowering to destroy especially resistant insects, to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases on plants.

Summer

At the end of the spring period, the beginning of summer, an ovary appears on the branches, for the development of which nutrients are needed. Top dressing in June is the key to a good harvest, so you should not be lazy, but carry it out carefully, taking into account the specific composition of the local soil and the needs of specific species of garden trees and shrubs. The treatment with useful substances should be repeated in several stages until the fruit ripening stage, which will ensure good nutrition.

autumn

The final spraying in order to prepare fruit trees for wintering is done at the end of autumn after harvesting and leaf fall. Sources of infections, fungi, rot should not be left on the trunk, which can become stronger during the winter and begin to multiply with renewed vigor in early spring. Trees and shrubs should enter the winter season in absolutely healthy condition, which will reduce the amount of spring work needed, increasing the chances of getting a good harvest next year.

How to spray trees

• chemical;
• biological;
• homemade tinctures and extracts.

Centuries of spraying experience have developed traditional methods that are often preferred by old-school gardeners. Given the changing environmental situation, it is sometimes necessary to resort to new means that can stop the reproduction of specific pests.

The use of urea

Urea is a universal substance of active multifunctional action that can help in the fight against insects, fungi, and also feed trees.

The properties of urea, which chemists often call carbamide, are due to the high nitrogen content and the active participation of pests in the metabolic reactions of the organism. It is important to remember the need to carefully follow the recommendations for diluting the solution. This applies to all drugs with high activity, especially urea.

In early spring, trees are treated with solutions with a large mass fraction of urea. At this time, there are still no leaves, buds and the likelihood of provoking burns is minimal.

In summer, spraying should be carried out with dilute urea solutions, the action of which is quite sufficient for plant nutrition, because the mass fraction of nitrogen in the substance reaches almost 47%.

Spraying with copper sulphate

The mechanism of action of many substances from the class of salts is almost the same; they block enzymatic metabolic reactions in the body of pests, thus providing neutralization. Copper sulfate poisons pests in a similar way, in addition, salt destroys fungal infections, helps fight the following types of tree infection:

• scab
• moniliosis;
• anthracnose;
• other diseases that cause rot and mold.

Crystal hydrate of copper sulfate (copper sulfate) is highly soluble in water, active in low concentrations.

For spraying, Bordeaux mixture is used - a solution of copper sulfate in milk of lime. Separately, copper sulfate is bred (100 g per 5 liters of water, prepared only in a non-metallic container), separately - lime (the same proportion). Then vitriol is poured into the lime mortar, stirred and the liquid is poured into the spray tank.

What is iron sulphate

A solution of copper sulfate in a hydrated state (ferrous sulfate) has a specific activity, expressed in the following types of action:

• fungicidal;
• supplying the plant with iron.

The dissolved substance has a greenish color, spreads well over the surface of the leaves when sprayed, provides a noticeable positive antifungal effect. Feeding with iron is especially important for apple trees, which accumulate it in fruits. If iron deficiency manifests itself noticeably in the form of white spots on the leaves, half a kilogram of crystals should be dissolved in a ten-liter bucket of water for spraying. With normal top dressing, it is enough to dissolve 10 g of iron sulfate in 10 liters of water.

Treatment with home remedies

Folk ways to protect gardens from pests combine both chemical and biological methods of influence, which were found intuitively, empirically. Their effectiveness has been proven for many tens (sometimes even hundreds) of years.

A good effect is spraying the garden with infusions of onion peel, chopped chives, dry powdered or green leaf tobacco. All these plants have a specific smell, which significantly reduces the number of pests on the trees.

To enhance the effect, you can add green soap, sold in gardening stores, to the extracts. In composition, it is similar to ordinary laundry soap, known for its antimicrobial action. The difference lies in the fact that green soap additionally contains vegetable oils and some fats, due to which the effect on pests is enhanced.

Tobacco is good for the gardener, not only in the form of tincture, they can be used to fumigate plants to kill aphids. Crushed tobacco leaves are placed on small stacks of straw in safe places between trees and set on fire. Enveloping smoke will drive out aphids not only on the trees in your garden, but also on your neighbors.

In addition to spraying and fumigation, timely whitewashing of the lower part of the trunk has a beneficial effect on the trees. This should be done in autumn or early spring, in March-April, when the temperature still does not exceed 5 ° C. Whitewashing by May Day will give a festive look to your garden, but will not save you from pests, which by this time will have already left the ground and will take positions on trunks and branches.

You can whitewash with a traditional lime solution or with new products, presented in abundance in specialized stores.

Biological agents

The mechanism of action of biological preparations is based on the fact that one beneficial microorganism is sprayed, which devours pests with pleasure.

• trichodermin is a fungus that destroys scab and rot;
• planriz is a concentrate of microbes that eat powdery mildew, brown rust, and even some insects.

A similar action is shown by "Pentofag", "Phytodoctor", "Fitosporin". With all due respect to the developers of biological preparations for the garden, the author is somewhat wary of the possibility of their use, because it is very easy to shift the balance in one direction or another, it is important not to overdo it and not populate the "guests" in excess.

How to properly process

Spraying requires careful execution of the process in all its details, which consists in the obligatory protection of the gardener's face, hands, body from solutions, the correct choice of the concentration of the active substance and the ability to use the pump.

You can spray the old-fashioned way with a broom only on bushes or small trees, and for the rest of the garden you definitely need a manual or electric pump. The choice of model is determined by the size of the garden and budgetary possibilities.

To spray with a handheld device, you need to be in good physical shape, which will allow you to carry a container of liquid on your back and pump the pump all the time to ensure a good jet.

Electric models are much easier and more convenient to use, while it is important to ensure a safe connection, after which you can work safely.

Note! For many reasons, spraying should not be done in high humidity and windy weather.

You need to choose weather without strong winds, precipitation on this and the next day, since the current virtual sources of information allow you to do this.

During operation, the container with the solution must be periodically shaken in order to ensure uniform distribution of the active drug throughout the volume. Trees must be sprayed evenly from all sides, leaving no untreated areas, so that the procedure has the expected result. With a careful attitude to work, success will be undeniable.

Growing a high yield in the garden is impossible without treatments for pests and diseases. The drugs are used in different phases of fruit development, but most of them fall on the period of swelling of the kidneys. However, after flowering, the orchard needs spraying from pests.

The following types of tools can be used for processing:

• chemical - they are highly soluble in water, act from several days to a month;
• combined - in a complex they cope with several types of insects at the same time, without requiring re-use;
• biopreparations are completely natural products created on the basis of bacteria and beneficial microorganisms.

How to spray the garden after flowering?

All drugs mentioned in the article must be dissolved in 10 liters of water before use. If, after flowering, a scale insect is found on the leaves, Karbafos treatment (90 g) is used. You can replace it with Actara or drug No. 30.

From inexpensive and common means, gardeners use a solution of copper sulfate. To prepare it, 100 g of powder must be diluted in 10 liters of water. Processing fruit trees at the end of the flowering phase allows you to get rid of most pests and many diseases. If mining moths were noticed on the branches (they are from the bottom of the leaf and on its upper side), Fozolon or Rogor-S is used.

If the garden has faded and the weather is warm, it is worth waiting for the departure of the codling moth. In the evening, in dry weather, insecticides are treated: Kinmiks (2.5 ml), Karate (2 ml), Calypso or Insegar (5 g), Karbofos (90 g). Re-spraying is carried out after two weeks.

When aphids appear on young leaves, it is necessary to treat with Fitoverm (2 ml of the substance is dissolved in a liter of water) or use Hostaquik (2 ml). In June, if favorable conditions have developed for the codling moth, it is necessary to repeat the treatment with the preparations described above. It is recommended to alternate drugs to avoid addiction.

Ticks can cause a lot of damage in the garden. Against these insects, the garden after flowering in June is treated with Neoron, dissolving 20 ml of the drug in a bucket of water. Also, spraying with a solution of colloidal sulfur (100 g) gives a good effect. In July, you need to repeat the treatment of the garden with a solution of copper sulfate to scare away the weevils.

How to spray stone fruits after flowering from pests?

Sweet cherries, cherries, plums and other stone fruits after flowering need protection from various pests. The processing of these trees is different from spraying apple trees, pears. When the flowering of stone fruit crops ends, the treatment with preparations containing copper is repeated. After flowering, the plum is sprayed with Decis (2 ml) or Karbofos (90 g), other drugs of a similar effect can be used.

After flowering on cherry and cherry trees, when the ovary begins to actively grow, the years of the cherry fly begin. This insect lays eggs in future fruits. Also at this time leafworms, aphids activate their activity. Against all these insects, spraying with Zolon or Sumition can be applied (the dilution proportions are indicated in the instructions).

In June, the air temperature rises, then plum codling moth appears in the garden. Karbofos (90 g), Fozolone (bred according to the instructions) effectively acts against it. After 2 weeks, the treatment is repeated with the same preparations. For spraying stone fruit crops, you can use an infusion of needles, a decoction of wormwood, an infusion of garlic, a solution of Tsimbum preparations (1.5 ml) or Kinmiks (2.5 ml).

Despite the fact that in stone fruit crops after flowering there is an active growth of the ovary, at the end of June it is recommended to spray the trees with Lepidocide (30 g), Fitoverm (2 ml), Bitoxibacillin (80 g). Such solutions effectively cope with the mucous sawfly.

Regardless of which tree was treated after flowering and subsequently, the use of synthetic preparations is completed 3 weeks before the start of the planned harvest. It is impossible to ignore spraying the garden from pests, otherwise the fruits and berries will be damaged, and some will simply die.

No matter how hard gardeners try to do without spraying, trees have to be protected from diseases and insects. Without protective treatments, you can lose the entire crop. For fruit plantations, both an excessive amount of pesticides and their lack are dangerous. The gardener must know the timing of spraying the garden. This avoids unnecessary, useless work.

When to Spray Fruit Trees

Processing begins long before the harvest and even the formation of the crop - in early spring. Finished in late autumn. In summer, when pests are most active, the garden should not be left unprotected either.

Spraying is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees. A procedure carried out in colder weather will be useless.

According to the rules of agricultural technology

There is a standard garden spraying calendar that you can refer to when developing your own protective measures:

Season	Plant condition	Purpose of processing	cultivated crops
Spring treatments	Before the kidneys swell	From wintering harmful insects, pathogenic microorganisms	All fruits and berries
	During swelling, bud break	Against scab and other diseases	Apple tree, pear
	After the petals fall	Against curly hair, clusterosporosis, coccomycosis	Cherry, sweet cherry, plum
	After the fall of the excess ovary	Against codling moth, fruit rot	pear apple tree
Summer treatments	During the growing season	Against sucking and leaf-eating pests	All fruit trees
	During the growing season	Against fungal diseases, powdery mildew	All fruit trees
Autumn treatments	Before the harvest	Against ticks	pear apple tree
	10-12 days before leaf fall	Disinfection	All fruit trees

According to the lunar calendar

According to the lunar calendar, you need to treat plants on the waning moon. From pests living in fruits, they process when the night star is in the signs of Aries, Leo, Sagittarius. From insects and microorganisms living on the leaves - in the signs of Scorpio, Cancer, Pisces.

Month	The moon is waning	Dates of treatments for pests and diseases of fruits	Dates of treatments for pests and diseases that damage the leaves
April	1-15	4, 5, 14, 15, 23	11, 12, 13
May	1-14, 30-31	1, 2, 3	9, 11, 12, 30,
June	1-12, 29-30	8, 9	5, 6, 7
July	1-12, 28-31	5, 6	2, 3, 4, 12, 30, 31
August	1-10, 27-31	1 , 2, 10, 28, 29	8, 9, 27
September	1-8, 26-30	6, 7, 26	4, 5
October	1-8, 25-31	4, 5, 31	2, 3, 29, 30
November	1-6, 24-30	1, 27, 28	6, 25, 26

The pesticide must be allowed for use in private farms and summer cottages. Those who want to have an environmentally friendly crop can use folk remedies instead of chemicals.

Most pests and phytopathogens develop immunity to the drug that is used in the area. Preference should be given to new means. Unfortunately, common insecticides like Intavir, Karbofos, Iskra do not help everywhere. They were replaced by more effective pesticides.

Fungicides

Fungicides are drugs against plant diseases. They include a substance that has a detrimental effect on microscopic fungi, bacteria and viruses - sulfur, copper or iron.

Vitriol copper

The fungicide is suitable for spraying any trees: pome and stone fruits. The drug is useful after pruning, when wounds appear on the tree that require disinfection.

Spraying the garden with copper sulfate to disinfect bark and soil is recommended twice:

• in March-April, before the first leaves appear;
• late autumn, after leaf fall.

A kilogram of powder contains 980 grams of the active substance - copper sulfate. The period of protective action is 1 month.

Cooking:

1. Dissolve 50 g of copper sulfate in 5 liters. water.
2. Spray bark, leaves, tree trunks.
3. The consumption rate is about 10 liters. per hundred.

Copper sulfate solution has a beautiful bright blue color. Do not be afraid if the bark and foliage become bluish after spraying. Color change is temporary.

inkstone

It is a fast-dissolving, odorless substance composed of iron and sulfur. Ferrous vitriol is not as toxic as copper sulfate, so it can be used when the trees are already fruiting. A sachet of iron sulfate contains at least 50% of the active ingredient.

Before swelling of the kidneys, a 3% concentration is used:

• 150 gr. vitriol;
• 200 gr. fluffs;
• 5 l. water.

During the growing season, a 1% solution is used:

• 50 gr. vitriol;
• 50-75 gr. fluffs;
• 5 l. water.

Mixing process:

1. Pour copper sulfate into glass, enamel or plastic dishes and pour a liter of warm water.
2. After waiting for the complete dissolution of vitriol, add water to the rate specified in the instructions.
3. In the second container, dilute the lime with water.
4. Pour the blue vitriol into the lime in a thin stream. Not vice versa!

Topaz

Topaz is a systemic remedy for the protection of pome and stone fruit crops from powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. The advantage of Topaz is that it is not washed off by rain. After hitting the leaves, it is absorbed and moves into the tissues, protecting the plants from roots to top.

To treat the garden from coccomycosis, powdery mildew and fruit rot, spraying is carried out in the summer, during the growing season. The waiting period is 7 days, up to 4 sprayings can be done over the summer. To obtain a working solution, 2 ml of topaz is diluted in 10 liters. water.

Thiovit Jet

The active substance of the drug - sulfur - 800 gr. per 1 kg of funds. Thiovit Jet is produced in the form of granules, which quickly disperse in water, forming a homogeneous suspension. After processing, the sticky mass is retained for a long time on the surface of the leaves and bark.

The drug protects plants from two troubles at once: from ticks and diseases. Under the influence of sulfur, insects and microscopic fungi quickly begin to die.

Preparation of working solution: 30-80 gr. dilute the drug in 10 liters. water. During the summer, you can do from 1 to 6 treatments. The product is non-toxic to fish and birds.

soda ash

An alkaline solution made up of soda and water helps against fungal diseases, especially powdery mildew.

Cooking:

• 35 gr. water;
• 10 gr. any liquid soap;
• 5 l. water.

Mix the ingredients and spray the garden when spots and blooms appear on the leaves.

Insecticides

Preparations for the destruction of harmful insects, their eggs and larvae are needed at each site. Without insecticides, the gardener will lose most of the crop, which will become the prey of hordes of caterpillars, beetles and aphids. When choosing a poison, you need to pay attention to whether it is allowed to use it in private gardens, and how many days must pass after processing so that the crop is no longer toxic to humans.

isegar

Protects apple and plum trees from codling moth and leafworm. The active substance is fenoxycarb. It is harmless to humans and bees, as it has only the third degree of danger.

Spraying the garden is carried out during the growing season. Waiting period:

• on an apple tree - 40 days;
• on the drain - 30 days.

No more than three treatments can be carried out per season. To prepare a working solution 6 gr. drug or 1 package of powder is diluted in 8-10 liters. water.

I was not the only one who saw apple trees at the beginning of summer, completely entangled web. And caterpillars, hanging down, like paratroopers landing.

And often we hear: "Guard! What to do? They ate half an apple tree. Some things can be saved. But sometimes it's too late.

And for you it is necessary that and the harvest was, and do not eat pesticide kit. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of when to treat apple trees from pests so that this processing is the safest and most effective.

I have friends, so they want to process once and solve everything.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is ideal if you make about 15 treatments various drugs. And even after that, the damage will be within 10-15 % . So it is necessary to choose the minimum number of necessary treatments.

And here residents of the southern regions and the forest-steppe have to carry out cultivation more often for the prevention and control of pests. Or look for stronger drugs.

Pests hibernate better, multiply more, get used to the drugs (last year it was effective, and this year, as I ironically, already as top dressing). Already one drug is not enough, but a tank mixture is needed.

Since the processing must be done practically all year round need a systematic approach

Before you fight a pest, you need to know it.

• What does the pest love, and what does he hate;
• When does it appear and how does it hibernate;
• When, how much and how best to present it to him, for breakfast or for dinner.

There are at least 30 different types of pests wishing to eat not only an apple. But also roots, and bark, and leaves. That's such a variety. And below we will dwell on their characteristics in more detail.

Watch the video on how, when and why to spray fruit trees in the garden:

Preparations

A garden without chemistry is ideal. BUT biological agents are a good way. And the “good” bacteria and viruses help, destroying harmful insects and pathogens of the tree.

But we often use chemical:

• Faster and longer acting;
• Easier to prepare
• More available.

And here they are more dangerous for health:

• Dosage;
• Compliance with security measures.

But do not forget about folk remedies!

Terms by growth phases

The timing of garden processing depends entirely on the growth phase of the apple tree, the presence of a pest and the weather.

1. February to March:
   • sleeping bud: treatment of pests that overwintered in the bark, tree trunks, soil.
2. April to May:
   • green cone (bud break period);
   • pink bud - before flowering;
   • fall of flower petals.
3. End of May - June- the formation of the ovary, the growth of fruits (1-2 treatments);
4. June to July- fruit growth (2-3 treatments);
5. Aug. Sept- fruit ripening (1-2 treatments as needed);
6. October November- after harvesting and falling leaves;
7. Winter- Rodent protection.

ADVICE! The number of treatments depends on the age of the garden, each tree:

• 5-7 years - 7-8 treatments;
• 8-15 years - 8-9 treatments;
• Over 15 years old - 10 treatments.

Spring apple tree spraying calendar

A lot of people don't want to think. And so, have a leaf on hand on which it is written - what and on what day (number). You can write. But they will be indicative and depend on the terrain and the weather (the Kuban is not the Moscow region).

The main thing is:

• The growth state of the tree;
• Presence of a particular pest.

First spraying

Before charging the sprayer, remember:

• Have you done a pruning?
• Have the trunks been cleaned of the affected and exfoliated bark, lichen?

And spend the first spraying with sleeping buds and an average temperature of about 5 degrees Celsius.

Options and more:

• Preparation 30V, blue vitriol;
• DNOC;
• Khom and Fufanon.

During the growing season (April-May)

When the kidneys swell (the period of the so-called green cone):

• Aktara or Engio with Horus;
• Copper vitriol;
• Urea;
• Nitrofen.

Before flowering (so-called rose bud):

• Engio with Horus and Thiovit Jet;
• Bordeaux mixture.

Attention!

• Do spraying with complex preparations or tank mixtures (well compatible preparations);
• Do not process apple trees during flowering.

When the leaves turn yellow

Try determine the cause and act without delay:

• - water;
• Lack of fertilizers (nitrogen) and microfertilizers -;
• The appearance of pests or diseases - treat with insecticides and fungicides;
• It's even better if you do everything together.

After flowering

Spray in May:

• From the caterpillars of the codling moth and leafworm;
• Weevils;
• sawflies;
• Ticks.

For disease prevention:

• Engio and Horus;
• Karbofos;
• benzophosphate;
• Chlorophos.

After 2-3 weeks, carry out another treatment. Spray apple trees with an ovary 7-10 days after the flower petals fall.

Is it possible to spray when there are already fruits?

For clarity:

• During the formation of the ovary (2nd and 3rd decade of May) appears butterfly and lays eggs, and in late May - early June, its caterpillars appear:
  • Skor (Topaz);
  • Lufox (Match).
• At the end of June - beginning of July appears second generation of codling moth caterpillars;
• And 2-3 more treatments.

Spraying apple trees with fruits.

Remember! Processing is stopped 20 days before the fruit ripens.

Processing in autumn

Meaning:

• Disease prevention;
• Destroy the pest in the soil, in the bark, and on the branches.

Not only spraying, but a whole range of activities:

• Collection of foliage and spindles from under the trees;
• Digging of tree trunks and soil;
• Sanitary pruning;

When you need to spray apple trees from pests:

• After harvesting and falling leaves;
• In calm weather and without rain:
  • Carbamide (urea);
  • Fufanon;
  • Inkstone.

Terms of spraying with different preparations

A few words about drugs:

• Insecticide– against harmful insects;
• Fungicide- against all diseases;
• Contact:
  • got on a pest and he is not a tenant, and quickly;
  • works for about a week, the rain washes away immediately.
• Systemic (complex):
  • are valid for about two weeks;
  • penetrate into the tissues of the tree;
  • act on larvae and eggs.

Fungicides

Ferrous vitriol (ferrous sulfate)

• For the prevention, treatment and fight against scab, lichen, rot, moss;
• Gives the much-needed iron for the growth of apple trees and tree trunks;
• Pest control (destruction of laid eggs).

Use 3-5% solution:

• Early before bud break;
• Late autumn how the leaves fall.

Be careful with deadlines! May scorch emerging buds and leaves.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate)

• Use for prevention and control fungal diseases(scab, black cancer, fruit rot, moniliosis);
• Disinfects wounds on trees during debris and sawing;
• Disinfects the soil.

Apply in spring before bud break, after flowering and in autumn.

Bordeaux liquid (a mixture of lime and copper sulfate)

• For prevention and treatment fungal diseases:
  • you can cook either 1% or 3%;
  • use immediately after cooking (flakes may form).
• Carry out preventive treatments after 10-12 days;
• Effective with 2-3 treatments.

Little inconvenience! It requires compliance with the cooking technology, and additional time.

From scab with urea (this is carbamide)

Apply:

• For prevention and treatment from scab, spotting;
• Against aphids, apple beetle, weevil, sucker;
• Increases productivity thanks to nitrogen.

• With a strong accumulation of pests, increase the concentration to 7%;
• Application - early spring and late autumn.

Horus

• Very much in demand;
• Universal:
  • a lot of diseases do not tolerate it;
  • improves even the quality of fruits and their safety.
• Reliable:
  • works after a few hours and at low temperatures.

Apply:

• Before flowering.
• After flowering.
• 2 weeks before fruit maturity.

Boric acid

The absence (deficiency) of boron is reflected in the leaves ( wrinkle), fruits ( necrosis).

Apply for:

• Increase in productivity (more ovary);
• Increasing resistance (resistance) to diseases and weather conditions;
• For spraying leaves.

Boron is contained in boron fertilizers (boric superphosphate, boric acid).

Fitosporin

• For prevention powdery mildew, wilt, scab and other fungal diseases;
• Soak roots and seeds;
• Spend once every two weeks during the growing season.

Preparation prestige (insecticide-fungicide)

It is also called a protector:

• Vs. burrowing and sucking pests, May beetle larvae, bears;
• From diseases.

May beetle larva.

In the garden and for the apple tree, it is valuable when planting seedlings:

• Refuel into the landing pit when landing;
• Water after planting.

Attention! After 40 days, it decomposes completely and then it is no longer dangerous.

Hom

• Prevention scab and moniliosis;
• Contains copper;
• Low toxicity to bees;
• Treat during the growing season:
  • no more than 4 treatments;
  • 20 days before maturity.

Insecticides

Fufanon

Use against:

• Ticks;
• codling moths;
• Leaf rollers;
• sawfly;
• weevil;
• Shchitovok;
• Copperheads and others.

Handle:

• AT growing season;
• No more than 2 treatments in 20 days;
• 20 days before fruit maturity.

Fitoverm

Pests:

• codling moth;
• leaf roller;
• Mite.

Apply during fruit growth one or two treatments.

Karbofos

Pests:

• weevils;
• Ticks;
• Shchitovka;
• codling moth;
• Leaflet.

Attention!

• Potent(use with severe lesions);
• Dangerous for bees.

Intavir

Pests:

• codling moths;
• Leaf rollers;
• Flower beetle;

Apply:

• After flowering(7-10 days after the start of flowering);
• No more than 3 treatments.

Attention! The result will be good if there is no rain in 4-5 hours.

Alatar

Pests:

• leaf roller;
• Flower beetle;
• codling moth;
• moth;
• Copperhead;
• Sawfly.

Apply:

• During the growing season;
• 2-3 treatments;
• 30 days before fruit maturity.

Spark ("Double Effect")

Pests:

• leaf roller;
• codling moth;
• whitefly;
• Flower beetle;
• Weevil;
• Sawfly;
• Thrips.

Properties:

• Versatile and fast action;
• Double action (has a potassium component as top dressing).
• Apply after 10-15 days;
• 3-4 treatments.

Imidacloprid (Confidor, Admir)

• Systemic, intestinal and contact;
• Validity -15-20 days;
• The result is valid 3-5 days after treatment.

Aktara

• No smell, dissolves well;
• Long period of action;
• Works in hot weather
• Good compatibility with many fungicides.

Pests - sucking and chewing insects:

• Shchitovka;
• Whitefly.

Best used with adhesives once during the growing season.

California scale insect on an apple tree.

Decis pro

Pests:

• codling moth;
• Leaflet.

Attention! Poor compatibility with drugs that have an alkaline reaction.

Treatment by pest type

In order to avoid wormy apples, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures to combat codling moth from the appearance of butterflies until autumn (see below).

From the scab in the spring

• After spring pruning (but before the appearance of leaves) - urea 5%;
• Before the appearance of fruits - preparations containing copper (copper oxychloride, etc.);
• After harvesting - 1% Bordeaux liquid;
• When infection occurs - a complex of minerals (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium salt).

Scab on an apple tree.

From the codling moth and so that there are no wormy apples

• Caterpillars appear 12-15 days after the early apples bloom;
• In winter are under the bark, in hollows, in the soil.

• Clean the trunks of dry bark on the film and burn;
• Dig the soil around the trunks;
• Install and clean trapping belts;
• Carry out spraying:
  • after shedding the petals of winter apple trees;
  • repeat in two weeks.

Apply karbofos, chlorophos, trichograms.

Apple flower beetle (fruit weevil)

In winter is in fallen leaves, under the bark.

Spray:

• When buds open;
• When falling off the ovary against young beetles.

Chlorophos is very effective.

From fruit rot (or moniliosis)

The disease is infectious and contributes to it:

• Uncollected sick apples, both fallen and on a tree (including last year);
• Damage by various pests.

• Collect and destroy affected fruits;
• Process the tree:
  • from pests with insecticides (primarily codling moths);
  • from diseases - Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

From leaflet

• Hiding in winter in bark, on branches near buds;
• Appears with swelling and opening of the kidneys;
• Rolls the leaves.

Process:

• Nitrafen in early spring;
• Infusions of tobacco;
• Karbofos;
• Chlorophos.

Install:

• Trapping belts;
• Jars of fermenting molasses for catching butterflies.

Leaflet.

From insects (and there are many)

• Pests bark- bark beetles, scale insects, ticks.
• Pests foliage, ovaries, flowers, buds- caterpillars and beetles of leafworm, hawthorn, sucker.
• Pests fruits- caterpillars of leafworms and codling moths, sawflies.
• sucking pests -.

To make them smaller:

• Collect and destroy fallen leaves and fruits;
• Dig near-stem soil;
• Whitewash the trunks with lime;
• Install trapping belts;
• Spray trees with insecticides.

The whole garden, not just the apple tree, can be helped by planting plants, which, if not destroy, then repel harmful insects: garlic, calendula, tobacco, celery, sage, mint, chamomile, rosemary, dill, elderberry.

I would call this word everyone who harms the apple tree. We have listed the most dangerous ones (including when and how to defeat them). Make sure they do the least harm.

From ants

At one time I was an ardent supporter of their usefulness for the garden, but time is running out. Now for me an ant colony is aphid carriers:

• You can make dippers with water if you have a lot of old tires;
• Build trapping belts and clean them periodically.

Still use drugs Antimuravey and others.

From caterpillars

It could be leafworm, and codling moth(which we have already covered above), and hawthorn, and apple sawfly, silkworm and others:

• Therefore, the fight against them must be carried out not only when they are already crawling, but even at earlier stages and in a complex;
• Agrotechnics and spraying.

From lichen

Appears on old apple trees. Prevention is done early in the vein and in the fall:

• In a timely manner ;
• Strip the trunks hard nylon or metal brush:
  • from growths;
  • from exfoliating bark.
• lubricate cleared places:
  • clay mixed with lime;
  • a thick solution of lime and copper sulfate;
  • strong 10% concentration of ferrous sulfate.

It is believed that the lichen even protects the tree.

From the whitefly

This quarantine pest can be a vector viral and fungal diseases.

Handle:

• Biological: Bitoxibacillin, Aktofit - 2-4 treatments at the vegetation stage;
• Chemical: treatment with one drug is not enough. You already know insecticides (Fufanon, Preparation 30V, Aktara, Confidor maxi, Iskra m, Karbofos and others);
• Folk remedies: infusions of onion peel garlic, yarrow (treatment every 2-3 days).

Whitefly.

I remember a time when remedies for garden pests could be listed on the fingers. Now even an experienced gardener is not easy to understand the proposed preparations.

There are specialized shops. Experts can advise. Since the market that is not a drug, all in one word "Bomb".

I'm sure it all depends on you!

In contact with

It is at this time that work can be done to preserve the crop and increase it. How to process trees and shrubs in early spring? This question is asked by every gardener. Everyone wants the work not to be in vain, and that the reward is a good harvest of fruits and berries. Therefore, a number of measures should be taken, the purpose of which is to protect garden plantings.

The benefits of spraying

If you do not spray trees and shrubs, then soon the garden will be affected by diseases and pests. This reduces the yield, slows down the appearance of fruits and berries. Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to decide on the methods of this event. Spraying is carried out several times a season. It helps to get rid of caterpillars, aphids, flower beetles, silkworms, powdery mildew, scab and other diseases and pests. Process everything and

Spray time

Usually garden plantings are treated three times during spring and summer. The effect of the solution lasts about two weeks. This should be the minimum break between sprayings. Processing should be stopped 2-3 weeks before fruit collection. In general, it is not advisable to use chemicals after the appearance of the ovary. Therefore, before treating trees and shrubs in early spring from diseases and pests, carefully read the instructions for the drug. Shrubs are sprayed much less frequently. When berries appear on them, processing can be stopped altogether. For this procedure, it is better to choose dry and calm weather.

Spraying steps

The first stage of processing falls on the earliest spring. At this time, pests that have successfully endured the cold period are destroyed. This is followed by the time of the second treatment. It is carried out after the appearance of the leaves. Thus, gardeners get rid of awakening insects. At the same time, prevention of various diseases that garden plantings are susceptible to is carried out. The third time the plants are sprayed after flowering. At this point, you can neutralize the spider mite and codling moth.

Preparatory work

Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work. First, you need to go around your possessions and remove old fruits and existing nests of pests. Old branches of plantings should be cut off. They are a good place for wintering and reproduction of pests and diseases. We take the branches outside the garden and burn them. Hot showers are used for shrubs. To do this, the water is heated to 70 degrees and poured onto the plants. This method helps to get rid of many pests and their larvae that overwinter on shrubs. This procedure must be carried out before the juices begin to move, so as not to harm the plants. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring without chemicals? Many experienced gardeners advise spraying garden plantings with a solution. This is about 150 grams of salt per 10 liters of water. A few days before the first spraying, trees and shrubs should be dug. We also cut off unnecessary shoots and branches.

First processing period

How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from pests? The first treatment is carried out in order to prevent the formation of scab. Even before the buds swell, the trees are treated with Fundazol or Skvor. There are many other tools with a similar composition. Before the procedure, the crown is thinned out and the trunk is covered with a layer of lime. When the buds begin to swell, another treatment is carried out, which disinfects the tree from the gall mite. To do this, you can use the drug "Neoron". Among the safer means, urea solution can be distinguished. 500 grams of the product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil, spreading throughout the season.

Continuing early processing

Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, they should be carefully examined, identifying the presence of danger. Many drugs have a specific effect on a particular pest or disease. Therefore, it would be more expedient to use exactly the right components. When the first leaves begin to bloom, you need to carry out prevention from caterpillars that damage the leaves of plants. To do this, use the drugs "Kinmiks" and "Fury". From powdery mildew (and also as a re-prophylaxis of scab), you can use Fundazol and Skvor.

Fighting weeds

As you know, weeds are not good neighbors. They must be constantly fought to prevent their growth and flowering. A good remedy for this is "Roundup" or similar drugs. Processing must be carried out with extreme caution. The trunk of a tree or shrub must be covered with any material that will not allow the poisonous substance to enter the cultivated plant. Then spray "Roundup" on the weeds. Protection can be removed from the tree in a day. Remember that weeds are the best breeding ground for pests.

Final stage

The final processing of shrubs and trees is carried out after flowering. But this does not mean that the fight against pests and diseases is over. These are the main points of spraying, but it is desirable to carry out the procedure much more often. After flowering, the codling moth, aphid and leafworm are activated. Here, Fury is considered an excellent treatment tool. Spraying is best done twice, with an interval of 20 days. Additionally, you can use the preparations "Skvor" or "Fundazol". If the tree trunk is damaged by black cancer, then it must be treated with a 1% solution and covered with garden pitch. Further processing of trees is carried out as needed or for prevention, but with an interval of two weeks. From small rodents, you can use the drug "Zernotsin-U".

Shrub processing

Spraying shrubs has its own characteristics. It is carried out much less frequently. For processing, almost the same preparations are used as for spraying trees. From powdery mildew, gray rot and fusarium wilt, you can take "Fundazol". It also works well for fungus on gooseberries and raspberries. Before the appearance of buds, shrubs are treated with Topaz. This tool will help get rid of a special type of powdery mildew. During the swelling of the buds, "Clinmixol" and "Phosbecid" are used, which prevent the appearance of leafworms, sawflies and gall midges. After the appearance of the ovary, re-treatment with "Topaz" is carried out. From slugs, you can use Metaldehyde granules, which are scattered between plantings.

It is better to finish the processing of berry bushes during the period of fruit ripening or a month before they are harvested. After harvesting, the plants should be treated again with any remedy for pests and diseases.

Folk remedies

There are many remedies that gardeners have come up with and tested in action. Folk processing methods are distinguished by their minimal harmfulness to the future harvest. But the effect of their use is not so small. Tomato leaves, namely their infusion, help well in the fight against caterpillars and leafworms. Two kilograms of foliage is poured into 5 liters of hot water. After 5 hours, the infusion is boiled and filtered. After that, the product is ready for use. The spraying procedure must be repeated after a week.

Many gardeners are wondering: how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from aphids? Along with mites, it is a very common pest. To combat them, use a decoction with potato leaves. To do this, part of the tops is mixed with two parts of water. After 5 hours, put the mixture in a water bath for 40 minutes. Then the broth is filtered and cooled.

Bordeaux liquid - this is how to process trees and shrubs in early spring before flowering will be just as effective. This is the most popular and proven method of struggle. It can also be used in subsequent spraying periods.

Very often, mosses and lichens form on the bark of trees. This is an excellent breeding ground for pests and diseases. Many novice gardeners are interested in how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from moss? It is simply removed from the surface of the bark with burlap or other hard material. Do this before spraying, so that the surface of the trunk is completely processed. The further appearance of moss must be controlled.

After completing the entire complex of processing, you can extend the life of trees and shrubs and achieve a good harvest.