Do I need to cut roses for the winter. Winter shelter of roses
Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.
All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.
Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.
We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.
By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be rain, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January, not everyone has the opportunity to open and ventilate their roses?
L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.
My hybrid teas sleep standing up...
Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have
loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds
and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.
Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.
By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.
I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".
Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.
Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.
Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.
I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.
I.Makhrova, rose collector.
Above modern varieties roses do not need to fence towers ...
I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.
If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on the lutrasil, then under cover it does not happen lower than -4’C.
I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.
The exception is, perhaps, only running bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.
In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!
Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.
I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?
I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.
G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden
Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!
I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than air dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.
I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.
I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.
If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.
I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.
Climbing roses must be laid on slate or roofing felt, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.
A. Teorina, master of growing roses.
Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather
When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.
I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a test cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.
I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).
Then, even if it rains, it will only get wet top part earthen mound, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.
I remove the leaf.
I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.
If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!
K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.
Shelter of roses - 2 main ways
Many flower growers have seen from their own experience that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.
There are two main ways to cover roses.
- Hilling When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, lightly spud the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).
After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.
When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.
In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.
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During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.
In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.
In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.
Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.
In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.
This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.
Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.
They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.
At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.
Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: it stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (in remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).
Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.
Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).
Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.
In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.
After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.
Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.
For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.
Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.
In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.
Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.
Preparing roses for shelter
Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.
! Hilling the bushes is a must!
Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.
Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing should be avoided. late autumn.
This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in the event of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.
! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..
The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.
! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.
Proper pruning of roses
Roses are pruned in autumn to create better conditions overwintering, just before shelter.
In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).
It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:
- hybrid tea roses cut in half;
- polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
- Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
- In climbing roses, only unripened tops and wen are cut off. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (older three years). Before the onset of persistent frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Mature plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.
Shelter of spray roses
After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5% iron sulphate or.
Several ways to shelter roses in winter
Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".
More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.
The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.
! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.
It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” with plastic wrap on top. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.
! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.
The first way to protect roses
On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".
The second way to protect roses
As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.
! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.
The third way to hide roses
Spruce branches are used, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.
The fourth way to protect roses
Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.
Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.
The fifth way to shelter roses
Another air-dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.
Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill up the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.
In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from soaking and rotting of shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.
The sixth way to shelter roses
IN mild winters such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. simple and reliable way shelters. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.
Shelter of roses in tubs
Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.
If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.
Shelter of standard roses
Preparing standard roses for winter requires special efforts. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.
The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the stem. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves
! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.
Shelter of climbing roses
Curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.
In regions with relatively mild winters, climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.
There are currently many varieties climbing roses they don’t even insulate for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but it is necessary to spud the root system up to 20-25 cm.
Spring removal of shelters
In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.
Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.
- Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
- When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
- After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
- With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
- Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
- By the end April - early May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
- With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
- With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
- With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
- Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the first will give abundant flowering, and from the lower bud of a short shoot a new powerful replacement shoot will develop - the basis of next year's flowering.
- Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.
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Any grower takes care of every rose bush growing in his garden. But it is especially important for our climate to properly cover roses from winter frosts. This task will not always be easy, since each climatic region has its own characteristics, winter often presents temperature changes and is not always rich in snowfalls. Covering roses for the winter, you need to provide for any weather surprises.
When do you cover a rose for the winter
Roses grown in most of Russia need to be covered for the winter. But the exact time when the rose must be completely closed from cold air cannot be specified. This plant tolerates small frosts well, but excessive overheating can cause the death of the bush. It is recommended to cover the rose bush once and for all when light frosts (about 5°C) are established.
If you do not have the opportunity to constantly monitor the change in temperature, shelter can be carried out in stages. Digging in the ground first root system, the bush can be covered with a thin cloth, and more thoroughly cover the rose later.
The initial stage of preparing a rose for wintering is a gradual transition to a state of rest
In order for the plant to better prepare for the dormant period, it is necessary to stop performing those actions that stimulate it to grow:
- in no case should fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers be allowed, as they contribute to the growth of green mass; you can feed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers or their natural equivalents (wood ash);
- remove weeds around the rose bush, but do not cultivate the soil, as it also encourages the plant to develop;
- gradually reduce watering, with in large numbers rainfall can make drainage grooves or even a canopy.
Such work in warm temperate climate perform from the beginning of September, in regions with a shorter summer - from mid-August.
The second stage: protecting the rose from the development of diseases under the covering material
Any rose shelter design cannot fully guarantee the absence of at least a slight overheating. And high temperature and humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of prevention:
- the source of infection is the leaves, especially the lower ones; they must be carefully cut; for roses with long branches, the removal of leaves is carried out in several stages, starting from the bottom;
- young shoots must be removed, since they will not be able to overwinter, and if they die, they will become a source of infection;
- the bush and the ground around it are sprayed with a fungicide: Bordeaux mixture or a three percent solution of copper sulfate.
Pruning of leaves and spraying is carried out before hilling the rose bush for the winter during the period when the first frosts have just begun.
Covering the root system with earth and pruning the rose bush
Hilling roses before wintering is mandatory in all regions. The simplest and most effective material for this is ordinary earth. But it’s better if you don’t rake the bush, but bring it from the garden. The mound around the plant should be at least thirty centimeters from the vaccination site. From above, the soil can be covered with spruce branches.
The use of sawdust or humus during hilling is not desirable, as this can cause overheating of the root system during thaws
Before hilling, you need to trim the branches. How long to cut them depends on the type of rose and the height of your shelter:
- hybrid tea roses are pruned so that, after hilling, 10–15 centimeters of trunks are visible above the mound of the earth; in these species, buds form on young shoots, so it is enough to keep the old trunks healthy at the base of the bush;
- in weaving roses, buds appear only on old (two-year-old and older) shoots, so it is important to leave the branches as long as possible and cover them without fail, so pruning depends on how you make the shelter, but even with very long branches it is not recommended to remove more the third part of the trunk;
- in standard roses, branches are cut only for the purpose of forming a crown; it is imperative to cover the entire bush and trunk and crown;
- park roses are considered hardy and are usually not covered.
Branch cuts after pruning are best treated with Runnet or a special varnish-balm
Simultaneously with pruning, long branches are bent to the ground, the branches are tied and lowered onto a support or insulating material between them and the soil: the same spruce branches, wooden boards.
After bending down the branches of a climbing rose, a frame is installed above it
Although I am not an outstanding gardener, I have been growing rose bushes for over twenty years. And I can tell from own experience that a simple hilling of hybrid tea roses in our region (Bryansk region), even without shelter with spruce branches, completely ensures the preservation of the bushes. But without such hilling, the rose freezes out. Last years I don’t cut rose branches: what is covered with earth will not freeze, the upper part severe frosts dies, and if the winter is warm, it will remain green. In the spring, you only need to remove all the blackened parts of the bush.
Organizing a winter shelter for roses
The main protection of the plant from frost is an air cushion, which is formed between the coating and the stem, therefore, for the effectiveness of your work, you must fulfill the following conditions:
- The branches should not touch the fabric cover.
- The fabric material must be dense, at least 200 g/m², in cold regions several layers must be used.
- The fabric must not be allowed to get wet, otherwise it will freeze through; can be used as water protection wooden shields or other improvised material: polyethylene film or polycarbonate, but in this case it is necessary to provide vents.
- In regions with a guaranteed large snow cover, it is enough to bend the branches and cover with a thin material.
Photo gallery: how to make a shelter for roses
Wooden shields will be a strong support for the fabric covering. The frame is made of metal or propylene pipes can be of a wide variety of shapes, but it is better if the entire rose garden is under one shelter. The polycarbonate shelter has good thermal insulation properties and besides, it is quite rigid, you must not forget about its mandatory ventilation. You can not remove the climbing roses from the supporting supports, but then you need to make a shelter around them using spruce branches and a fabric cover. Standard roses can be bent to the ground, but it is better to make a vertical shelter
Video: how to cover roses for the winter
Despite the laboriousness of carrying out all the work on proper preparation rosaries for the winter, each grower carefully performs them, because only in this case next year will delight him with the flowering of roses.
A delicate flower not only protects itself with thorns. For all its external fragility, the plant turns out to be a real fighter, it can survive even the first frosts with dignity. It is because of this stability that gardeners are always advised to what temperature roses can be left uncovered, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. At what temperature to cover roses for the winter, read right now.
When to cover roses for the winter
Under cover, roses can withstand long-term drops in temperature even to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea. So when is the best time to hide? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.
It is generally accepted that roses should be covered when the temperature is set at -5 ... -7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts will not only not damage roses, but rather harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered in the old fashioned way - a spud plus spruce branches. With this method, early packed roses could simply soak at positive temperatures, but now it is no longer necessary to wait for frost. Lutrasil transmits light, air and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. The weather in late autumn is unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a slight minus (-5o), at which open roses will not suffer, or suddenly -12o- and they will immediately freeze.
Therefore, it is necessary to cut and cover the bushes from October 15th. By this time, the vegetation of the roses stops, they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does not harm in any way. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.
Preparing roses for winter
Experienced gardeners know that leaving roses open for the winter is not worth it. By spring, they may die completely or be injured from frost. Which roses need to be covered for the winter, in what way, each gardener decides individually, based on personal experience. But preparatory work start early when lush bloom roses are pleasing to the eye. It is necessary to carry out planned activities from the middle of summer, so that the bush gain strength and be able to successfully winter:
- Stop making complex and organic fertilizers and switch to potassium and phosphorus;
- The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when potassium magnesia is scattered under the bushes to strengthen the roots.
Autumn pruning of roses
Rose pruning is compulsory procedure, which must be carried out with all roses, except climbing ones. There are several types of pruning:
- light shaping pruning. With such pruning, you just need to slightly shorten the shoots, leaving about two-thirds of them. The cut must be made with sharp scissors or secateurs, always at an acute angle about one and a half centimeters above the kidney, which grows outward;
- medium cut. Such pruning can be done with any rose bushes that have been growing with you for more than a year. The rules are the same as for forming pruning - an acute angle, a cut above the kidney, the kidney should grow outward;
- strong rejuvenating pruning. Such pruning should be carried out with plants that are five or more years old. It is an excellent rejuvenator for rose bushes, it stimulates flowering, growth of shoots, helps roses to easily overwinter and promotes good growth. With this method, stumps about 12-15 cm from the ground remain from the bush.
Pruning roses in the fall for beginners can sometimes seem like something difficult. This is not true at all - if you do not know how to prune your roses properly, shorten their shoots by half. With this option, you will form a crown, and rejuvenate your bush, and prepare it for cold winter. Medium pruning for beginners is a win-win.
Autumn processing of roses
Bush processing protective equipment carried out only after all the leaves have been disposed of. If flowers remain on the shoots, only the petals are removed, and the boxes are left. If they are cut off, the plant regards this as a signal for the activity of nearby buds. If the autumn is warm, they have time to germinate and die with the onset of frost. And that means they freeze. That is why those varieties that are not pruned for the winter are freed from leaves, but the fruits are not touched.
Many gardeners try to choose disease-resistant roses, but even they should be protected from possible diseases. Even if your yard is perfectly groomed, danger can come from a neighboring garden or from wild plantings. That is why you should not rely on chance and treat roses from infection. Especially if there are obvious symptoms of the disease. Autumn spraying with fungicides will not allow pathogens to survive until spring. This way you can avoid spreading it.
For this, both long-tested and modern drugs are used.
One of the most famous substances for autumn processing roses are inkstone. For autumn spraying of roses, a solution is prepared from 300 g of the substance and 10 liters of water (3% solution). The treatment is carried out after complete dissolution of the crystals.
Iron vitriol can only be diluted in glass, plastic or enameled containers. In metal containers, chemical reaction with the release of harmful iron oxide. When working with the drug, precautions must be observed for means of the third hazard class.
Articles for flower growers
Hilling roses before shelter for the winter
After pruning the mature shoots of roses, regardless of species, the hilling procedure is carried out. Hilling roses is carried out with the aim of:
- protect plants from cracking at the base of the stem;
- additionally warm the roots of the plant;
- protect the lower buds of plants from frost, which are on next year form new young shoots. Read also the article: → "Do I need to dig up roses for the winter."
Spud roses with loose compost, peat substrate and nutrient garden soil. It is not recommended to spud roses with materials such as shavings, sawdust, hay and straw. These materials often lead to decay of the basal neck of the bush, and are also a favorable environment for the propagation of fungal diseases.
The dependence of the method of insulation on the type of flowers
- Park Rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, seedlings or young bushes are best insulated. ground cover rose. This species does not require special care.
- floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, the leaves are removed. Then spud and cover with improvised materials. miniature rose. Small ones are spudded, covered with dry foliage and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arcs or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.
- Climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry foliage or needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber. Bush rose. spray rose you need to shorten and sprinkle with prepared earth with a layer of 30 cm. In this case, the entire gap must be filled. The vaccine should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. hybrid tea rose. The best method of protection would be an air-dry shelter. standard rose. Apply air-dry shelter.
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