How to spud roses in summer. How to properly cover roses for the winter - advice from experienced flower growers: how to do it - methods, materials, timing and methods

Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.

All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.

Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.

We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.

By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be rain, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January, not everyone has the opportunity to open and ventilate their roses?

L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.

My hybrid teas sleep standing up...

Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have

loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds

and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.

Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.

By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.

I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".

Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.

Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.

Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.

I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.

I.Makhrova, rose collector.

Above modern varieties roses do not need to fence towers ...

I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.

If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on the lutrasil, then under cover it does not happen lower than -4’C.

I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.

The exception is, perhaps, only running bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.

In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!

Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.

I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?

I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.

G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden

Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!

I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than an air-dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.

I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.

I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.

If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.

I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.

climbing roses I definitely lay it on slate or on roofing material, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.

A. Teorina, master of growing roses.

Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather

When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.

I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a test cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.

I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).

Then, even if it rains, it will only get wet top part earthen mound, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.

I remove the leaf.

I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.

If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!

K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.

Shelter of roses - 2 main ways

Many flower growers own experience made sure that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.

There are two main ways to cover roses.

1. Hilling When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, lightly spud the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).

After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.

When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.

In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.

A delicate flower not only protects itself with thorns. For all its external fragility, the plant turns out to be a real fighter, it can survive even the first frosts with dignity. It is precisely because of this stability that gardeners are always advised to what temperature roses can be left uncovered, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. At what temperature to cover roses for the winter, read right now.

When to cover roses for the winter

Under cover, roses can withstand long-term drops in temperature even to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea. So when is the best time to hide? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.

It is generally accepted that roses should be covered when the temperature is set at -5 ... -7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts will not only not damage roses, but rather harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered in the old fashioned way - a spud plus spruce branches. With this method, early packed roses could simply soak at positive temperatures, but now it is no longer necessary to wait for frost. Lutrasil transmits light, air and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. Weather late autumn unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a small minus (-5o), at which open roses will not suffer, or suddenly -12o- and they will immediately freeze.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and cover the bushes from October 15th. By this time, the vegetation of the roses stops, they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does not harm in any way. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.

Preparing roses for winter

Experienced gardeners know not to leave roses open for the winter. By spring, they may die completely or be injured from frost. Which roses need to be covered for the winter, in what way, each gardener decides individually, based on personal experience. But preparatory work start early when lush bloom roses are pleasing to the eye. It is necessary to carry out planned activities from the middle of summer, so that the bush gain strength and be able to successfully winter:

• Stop making complex and organic fertilizers and switch to potassium and phosphorus;
• The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when potassium magnesia is scattered under the bushes to strengthen the roots.

Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning is compulsory procedure, which must be carried out with all roses, except climbing ones. There are several types of pruning:

• light shaping pruning. With such pruning, you just need to slightly shorten the shoots, leaving about two-thirds of them. The cut must be made with sharp scissors or secateurs, always at an acute angle about one and a half centimeters above the kidney, which grows outward;
• medium cut. Such pruning can be done with any rose bushes that have been growing with you for more than a year. The rules are the same as for forming pruning - an acute angle, a cut above the kidney, the kidney should grow outward;
• strong rejuvenating pruning. Such pruning should be carried out with plants that are five or more years old. It is an excellent rejuvenator for rose bushes, it stimulates flowering, growth of shoots, helps roses to easily overwinter and promotes good growth. With this method, stumps about 12-15 cm from the ground remain from the bush.

Pruning roses in the fall for beginners can sometimes seem like something difficult. This is not true at all - if you do not know how to prune your roses properly, shorten their shoots by half. With this option, you will form a crown, and rejuvenate your bush, and prepare it for cold winter. Medium pruning for beginners is a win-win.

Autumn processing of roses

Bush processing protective equipment carried out only after all the leaves have been disposed of. If flowers remain on the shoots, only the petals are removed, and the boxes are left. If they are cut off, the plant regards this as a signal for the activity of nearby buds. If the autumn is warm, they have time to germinate and die with the onset of frost. And that means they freeze. That is why those varieties that are not pruned for the winter are freed from leaves, but the fruits are not touched.

Many gardeners try to choose disease-resistant roses, but even they should be protected from possible diseases. Even if your yard is perfectly groomed, danger can come from a neighboring garden or from wild plantings. That is why you should not rely on chance and treat roses from infection. Especially if there are obvious symptoms of the disease. Autumn spraying with fungicides will not allow pathogens to survive until spring. This way you can avoid spreading it.

For this, both long-tested and modern drugs are used.

One of the most famous substances for autumn processing roses are inkstone. For autumn spraying of roses, a solution is prepared from 300 g of the substance and 10 liters of water (3% solution). The treatment is carried out after complete dissolution of the crystals.

Iron vitriol can only be diluted in glass, plastic or enameled containers. In metal containers, chemical reaction with the release of harmful iron oxide. When working with the drug, precautions must be observed for means of the third hazard class.

Articles for flower growers

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

After pruning the mature shoots of roses, regardless of species, the hilling procedure is carried out. Hilling roses is carried out with the aim of:

• protect plants from cracking at the base of the stem;
• additionally warm the roots of the plant;
• protect the lower buds of plants from frost, which are on next year form new young shoots. Read also the article: → "Do I need to dig up roses for the winter."

Spud roses with loose compost, peat substrate and nutrient garden soil. It is not recommended to spud roses with materials such as shavings, sawdust, hay and straw. These materials often lead to decay of the basal neck of the bush, and are also a favorable environment for the propagation of fungal diseases.

The dependence of the method of insulation on the type of flowers

• Park Rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, seedlings or young bushes are best insulated. ground cover rose. This species does not require special care.
• floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, the leaves are removed. Then spud and cover with improvised materials. miniature rose. Small ones are spudded, covered with dry foliage and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arcs or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.

• Climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry foliage or needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber. Bush rose. spray rose you need to shorten and sprinkle with prepared earth with a layer of 30 cm. In this case, the entire gap must be filled. The vaccine should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. hybrid tea rose. The best method of protection would be an air-dry shelter. Stamp rose. Apply air-dry shelter.

So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering, the soil around the rose bushes must be dug up on a shovel bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.

Hilling roses for the winter

One of the components of the winter shelter of roses is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect the root system from frost. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.

Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earth shelter remains higher for some time than outside.

Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.

Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.

Shelter of roses with spruce branches

This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.

Air dry shelter roses

This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, as the bushes are protected from penetration with it. excess moisture, and because of the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since in early spring shelters will need to be ventilated.

Shelter of standard roses for the winter

It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.

Landing standard rose taking into account further bending to the ground

Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can be pre-pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.

Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

Garden soil when creating protective winter shelters use as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

• the material should not be moisture-intensive;
• the material should not cake and compact;
• the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root neck rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

• tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
• loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are ongoing discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. Requires additional building air-dry shelter above the bush.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system more sensitive to frost than roses grafted onto hardy rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated from year to year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.

TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER

Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.

Behind last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.

Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, for small sub-zero temperatures roses are hardening.

Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!

Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).

Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?

Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.

Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.

If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems with garden pitch.

You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.

Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.

But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.

Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).

HOW TO COVER ROSES?

Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.

Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.

If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.

So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.

To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).

Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.

Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.

WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?

1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.

Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.

2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.

3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.

4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.

IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?

There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).

PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS

Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.

Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.

And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.

SUMMING UP

To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.

If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.

N. Petrenko, Ch. editor