Preparing roses for winter Protection of heat-loving roses by hilling When to remove hilling from roses
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During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.
In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.
In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.
Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.
In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.
This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.
Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.
They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.
At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.
Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: it stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (in remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).
Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.
Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).
Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.
In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.
After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.
Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.
For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.
Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.
In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.
We continue the conversation about preparing the rosary for winter (you can read the beginning in the publication). In our harsh Russian climate, roses spend in shelter (just think!) Almost half a year. The success of wintering will depend on how competently we take care of our favorites. Sometimes it's a pity to send our gorgeous roses into forced confinement, but we have no other choice.
Pre-winter preparation
In a previous publication, I settled on the fact that in the dry season of Indian summer it is necessary to tie and bend to the ground. Pre-cut the unripened tops of scrubs and climbings, English, and musk roses, remove flowering shoots with buds.
Roses in the dry season of Indian summer must be tied and bent to the ground.A photo
Second: when pruning leaves, it is easy to damage the delicate skin of the shoots, where the infection will penetrate. But most importantly, the leaves of roses continue to participate in the process of photosynthesis, giving everything the roots of plants need. This continues even in shelter with meager rays of light that penetrate there (if translucent lutrasil was used). To deprive them of such an opportunity means to weaken the plants.
It has been noticed that those roses that have lost their leaves as a result of black spot disease winter much worse and die more often. Therefore, the main task is to keep the leaves to the last. And in the spring they themselves will disappear, and you can easily collect them.
We save the leaves to the last.A photo
Whether to spud roses
One more controversial issue- whether to fall asleep necks of grafted roses. There is an opinion that this must be done in the fall to prevent them from freezing. In my opinion, it's best to leave things as they are. To rake the earth around means to expose the roots, it is not advisable. It is dangerous to fall asleep, as biochemical processes continue in it. This is an active microbiological environment in which an infectious burn develops. By spring, the stems of roses covered with compost will be ringed. brown spots, the stems will have to be removed and it’s good if the rose does not die at all.
Infectious burn of a rose.A photo
It is even worse to use for these purposes, even if rotted. My neighbors once covered their roses up to half the height with manure so that they would be “warmer”. The result was sad: in the spring the plants turned black, the entire collection was destroyed.
Friendly advice: if you have a lot of roses, do everything in stages. Prepared a dozen plants - cover, then proceed to others. This must be done due to the unpredictability of our weather. We learned this from one incident when we prepared our rose garden for the final shelter, and the next morning it snowed.
Universal spruce branches
In old Russian gardens roses were traditionally covered. This natural material, thanks to numerous needles, creates a kind of airy "fur coat" that keeps the heat coming from the ground. It is important that this fur coat also "breathes", which prevents the processes of decay.In addition, needles are an excellent aseptic material. Under the spruce branches, covered with snowdrifts, roses feel great both in frost and during thaws.
Under spruce branches, roses feel great.A photo
However, recently it has become increasingly difficult to get hold of spruce branches, as in the old days. In outskirts of Moscow coniferous forests entire hectares are destroyed by the typographer beetle, it has become easy natural disaster. If you're lucky just find fallen tree consider yourself very lucky. And in all other cases, the harvesting of spruce branches should be stopped for ethical reasons. Numerous rose lovers should think about the fate of the forests.
Last year, we were unexpectedly lucky - a neighbor cut down a large "Kremlin" Christmas tree on his site, and we got a luxurious spruce branch, under which our roses comfortably overwintered. But this happens once in a lifetime. In other cases, you need to look alternative options.
Lapnik is an ideal hiding place for roses.A photo
Air dry shelter
Our savvy rose growers came up with the so-called air-dry shelter. This is exclusively Russian know-how. A strong frame is constructed around the perimeter of the rose garden, on which boards are laid, covering material is spread over them, for example, roofing material, lutrasil or spunbond.
A strong frame is being built around the perimeter of the rose garden.A photo
Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame. This is done so that the spunbond does not fall into the shelter under the weight of snow. Under such shelter it is warm and dry.
Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame.A photo
However, this method requires a compact planting of roses in a single array. Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.
Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.A photo
Before frost, such a structure must be ventilated, removing excess moisture; for this, the ends are left open. And only when the temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C, they are closed. This method has the right to exist, but it is not without drawbacks.
To begin with, the construction of such a large-scale structure will require certain skills and materials. A huge mass of snow in a year of heavy snowfalls can break this shelter, and simply crush the roses under it. Therefore, it must be made reliable and strong.
The roses are there literally in a dungeon, not receiving sunlight. By spring, they become pale and tortured. When the time comes to open them, the plants may suffer from bright spring sun. At one time we practiced this method of hiding in our garden, but in last years considered that the use of modern covering technologies and materials makes the life of a rose grower much easier.
Modern ways
most acceptable and accessible way rose shelters today can be considered the use of modern ones - lutrasil, spunbond, agril, the invention of which greatly facilitated the life of rose lovers. The density of such materials must be at least 60 g/m².Plants are covered with at least 2 layers with the waxed side up (important!). With such a shelter, roses "breathe", when wet from rains or during thaws, lutrasil dries quickly, it is easy to work with. The edges of the fabric must be securely fastened with bricks or boards so that it is not blown away by the wind. After the snowfalls begin, the roses will be in a safe and warm shelter.
Reliable shelter for roses.A photo
I must say that some gardeners use covering material in a completely wrong way, simply wrapping them around vertically standing bushes. One often sees such "ghosts" in snow-covered gardens. However, such, so to speak, protection will not save the rose from frost. After all, it is known that it is not the blanket that warms us, but we are the blanket. So in this case, the rose is not able to generate heat, it gives the earth. Therefore, we bend our roses to mother earth - a source of heat, covering material shields its losses into the atmosphere, and snow works like a thermos. A rose wrapped in a cloth is left alone with the frost and is not able to survive the harsh winter.
It is noted that "in big company» Roses overwinter better than single roses. This is due to the fact that with a large area of \u200b\u200bshelter under it, more comfortable temperature because the earth is warm. Above large roses at the bending points, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise, this is done so that the snow does not break them.
Above large roses in the places of the fold, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise.A photo
In such places, a dome is formed, from which the snow mass will inevitably slide. In conclusion, we throw another plastic film on the lutrasil, leaving air ducts below for ventilation. This film protects the shelter from rains in autumn, from glaciation after winter thaws and, importantly, serves as additional protection against melt water in spring.
Properly wrapped roses will sleep peacefully all winter. Closer to spring, we will definitely talk about how to competently and safely release our captives and what to do with them later.
Preparing roses for wintering
Roses are prepared for wintering in several stages:
1. In October, the soil under the roses is dug up (on a spade bayonet) or loosened with a pitchfork, trying not to damage the roots.
2. Shoots of scrubs and climbing roses should be gradually, in several steps, bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
3. Then the bushes spud, i.e. they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. At the same time, they do not rake the earth from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but pour it (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. Cropped hybrid tea roses and floribunda as a result are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such an earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
With hilling roses for the winter, do not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
4. When the ground is slightly frozen (in middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), roses cover completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring: at air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be aired periodically.
The main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.
So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering the ground around rose bushes it is necessary to dig a shovel onto a bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.
Hilling roses for the winter
One of the components winter shelter roses, is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect against frost root system. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.
Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earth shelter remains higher for some time than outside.
Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.
Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.
In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.
Shelter of roses with spruce branches
This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.
Air dry shelter roses
This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, as the bushes are protected from penetration with it. excess moisture, and because of the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since shelters will need to be ventilated in early spring.
Shelter of standard roses for the winter
It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.
Landing standard rose taking into account further bending to the ground
Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can be pre-pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.
Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground
For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.
Tasks of the grower
A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.
Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:
- foliage removal;
- hilling bushes;
- shelter them from the cold.
Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose
Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:
- increases resistance to frost;
- provides access to sunlight to the stems;
- ventilates the crown;
- encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
- stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.
Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.
Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.
Preparatory procedures before pruning
Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before winter training plants:
- collect fallen leaves from the ground;
- carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
- try not to hurt the stem itself;
- stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.
Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.
The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:
Hilling bushes
- Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
- Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
- If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.
Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.
Cutting technology
The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.
After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:
Trimming process
- 3 year olds or older;
- from a large number side branches;
- covered with dry bark.
Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.
Different types of roses have their own pruning features:
- Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
- Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
- floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.
How to insulate roses for the winter
If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.
Preparing for winter
The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.
From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.
Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.
Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.
Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.
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