Winter cover for roses. Rules for sheltering roses Specifics for sheltering climbing roses
So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering the ground around rose bushes it is necessary to dig a shovel onto a bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.
Hilling roses for the winter
One of the components winter shelter roses, is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect the root system from frost. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.
Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earthen shelter remains higher for some time than outside.
Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.
Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.
In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.
Shelter of roses with spruce branches
This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.
Air dry shelter roses
This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, as the bushes are protected from penetration with it. excess moisture, and because of the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since in early spring shelters will need to be ventilated.
Shelter of standard roses for the winter
It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.
Planting a standard rose, taking into account further bending down to the ground
Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can first be pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.
Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground
The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated from year to year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.
TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER
Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.
Behind last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.
Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, for small sub-zero temperatures roses are hardening.
Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!
Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).
Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.
DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?
Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.
Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.
If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems with garden pitch.
You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.
Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.
But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.
Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).
HOW TO COVER ROSES?
Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.
Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.
If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.
So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.
To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).
Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.
Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.
WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?
1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.
Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.
2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.
3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.
4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.
IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?
There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).
PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS
Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.
Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.
And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.
SUMMING UP
To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.
If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.
N. Petrenko, Ch. editor
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During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.
In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.
In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.
Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.
In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.
This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.
Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.
They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.
At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.
Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (for remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).
Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.
Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).
Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.
In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.
After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, you should still feed the roses, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.
Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.
For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.
Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.
In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.
Good repeat and repeat again: we do not have roses that would not need shelter for the winter.
You need to cover absolutely all roses. In this article, we will look at a few important aspects this process:
- Do I need to spud the roots of roses.
- Is it necessary to tear off the leaves and process the cuts before wintering the roses.
- How to scare mice away from roses during the winter.
- When to bend the stems.
- Good Examples winter shelters.
Roots - spud or not
There have been discussions on this topic on FORUMHOUSE for years.
Chigsa FORUMHOUSE Administrator
This method has both supporters and opponents. Therefore, this event is not mandatory.
Roses spud, making a mound about 30 centimeters high at the base of the bush. For hilling, you can not rake the earth directly from the pink flower bed, so as not to expose the roots of the plant, but bring it from another place. The consolidated opinion of the participants of our portal regarding the composition of the hill: it must be breathable.
Roses are best spudded with a mixture of soil and sand (50/50).
Peat and sawdust get wet and caked, straw - attractive environment for mice.
Actually, hilling is used to preserve during the winter a large number plant buds, because a higher temperature will remain under the hillock than outside, even in a snowless winter. Here are the arguments of supporters and opponents of the hill, we hope they will help you make the right decision:
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For hilling |
Against hilling |
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Spudding with earth is the most normal option for preserving roses. Wet hilling is harmful to plants only when heated, in spring, and under a windproof shelter. |
If the shoots are under a wet hill in the active sun for more than two weeks, dampening is ensured. |
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If the composition of the ridge is correct and breathable (if it is not 100% clay, 100% peat, sawdust or sand), the shoots under it always remain. |
Hilling with earth leads to frost holes; if the roses are hilled, there are always frost holes after thaws, if they are not hilled, frost holes are microscopic or they are not at all. |
Roses are usually spudded in two steps: they are slightly spudded in mid-autumn to protect the bush from autumn frosts, and finally - closer to winter.
Member of our portal with a nickname Nat spuds roses: the site is located in a lowland, and the probability of freezing is quite high. But he spuds the roses along the spruce branches: that is, first he covers the roses with spruce branches, then slightly spuds, then pulls the covering material over the arcs.
Nat
For the first time we tried spruce spruce spruce last year, because. noticed that the roses, in direct contact with the hillock, prey.
It is better not to use the hilling method if you have heavy loamy soils, so as not to increase the likelihood of damping off.
Marina659 FORUMHOUSE member
Don't worry about the bump! In the spring you will rake it as it thaws, and nothing will support it.
Whether to remove leaves, whether to process cuts
If the roses are healthy, then it is not at all necessary to remove the leaves, this will be a procedure from the “give yourself extra work” series; the leaves themselves will wilt and fall beautifully, following the natural cycle. Option: you can cut off only diseased leaves.
If there is some kind of infection on the leaves, then with the smallest frosts it will cease to be viable.
Helga
The whitefly does not bring any harm, and will not survive the winter. Spraying with an insecticide will not bring harm or benefit.
But if you are still worried about this, spray the plants before shelter with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.
On the issue of processing slices, the rose growing gurus of our portal are categorical.
Helga
Don't give yourself too much work. You never need to process any sections of roses with anything.
When cutting roses for the winter, it is recommended to cut the cut obliquely, then rainwater will not remain on the cut, but immediately roll to the ground, and the cut will dry out quickly. It is better to cut the branch above the bud, which looks outside the bush, then the future process will grow outside the bush.
sw111 FORUMHOUSE member
Then there is no need to process the slices. They dry up and live.
How to do mouse prophylaxis
For some rodent reason, mice adore roses as much as they love apple trees and grapes, and the thorns won't stop them. During the years of mouse pandemics, the rose garden can suffer very seriously.
GALAS
My whips have been nibbled this year.
An excellent means of prevention was given to the participants of our portal by the famous Russian scientist, breeder Ivan Puchkin: this is ordinary birch tar. Ivan Alexandrovich impregnates pieces of old felt boots with tar and places them next to the plants.
Tar to repel mice is also successfully used by the participants of our portal, the experience is always positive.
MiLeDi Member of FORUMHOUSE
Mice don't like it very much! Of course, this is more time-consuming than throwing poison bait. I have been using tar for 5 years, it is not washed off by rain, the smell under the shelter of roses remains until spring. Under bushes-trees less, but mice also do not like it.
Here is another way to use birch tar (the product is sold in a pharmacy).
- We hang it on branches, wind it on columns of tape moistened with tar.
- We lay out pieces of cotton wool soaked in tar in dangerous places of mouse migrations.
When to bend roses
Despite the fact that roses easily tolerate small frosts, and it is recommended to cover them already with slight frosts, it is better not to put off bending down until this time.
Pucha Member of FORUMHOUSE
At a stable -5, the stems will be brittle and may break when laid.
Climbing and standard roses, as well as floribundas, bend down in the middle of autumn, until the stems have lost their flexibility.
They bend down for a long time and gradually: they tie the plant by a rope, the second end of the rope is tied to a peg stuck in the ground (barbecue skewer). Once a week, the rose is slowly pulled to the ground by the rope until the distance above the ground is 50 cm. From above, the plant is covered with a double layer of the 60th lutrastil.
Examples of successful winter shelters
The shelter that a member of our portal with the nickname made for his roses ghost73:
- made frames;
- stapled to them three layers of thin spunboard;
- on top of 2/3 covered with a layer of craft paper and geotextile;
- the resulting hut was tied with burlap.
The ends will be closed with spruce branches, which is always enough in the household of a member of our portal: I regularly trim the Christmas trees that I planted near the bathhouse.
FORUMHOUSE members do not approve of felling spruce branches in the forest to cover roses.
A member of our portal has a successful experience of sheltering roses Andrew 61, roses have been wintering under it for 20 years and do not freeze.
At the first stage, a serious preparation of roses for wintering is done.
Andrey 61 Member of FORUMHOUSE
- I do pruning with the removal of leaves.
- I put metal arcs from reinforcement F 10.0.
- Before covering with material, I remove all debris - leaves from fallen trees, etc., then spray or pour Bordeaux mixture over.
Shelter is made of arcs from several layers:
- the first layer of film;
- batting;
- second layer of film.
The edges of the film are pressed with bars or pipe trimmings.
Andrew 61
They overwinter excellently. They will not be able to suffocate if the film lies on the arcs, the height of the arcs in a radius is approximately 0.8 m. Roses breathe freely.
One of the main rules for successful wintering was formulated by the authoritative FORUMHOUSE rose grower with the nickname stefan.
How big square shelter, the more successful wintering. The larger the buffer, the slower the temperature drops and the slower the rise.
Another member of our portal with a nickname prety covers roses with everything at hand: office plastic trash cans, flowerpots, etc.
prety
Under each rose is a handful of ashes and a pile of dry earth from under petunias.
For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.
Tasks of the grower
A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.
Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:
- foliage removal;
- hilling bushes;
- shelter them from the cold.
Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose
Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:
- increases resistance to frost;
- provides access sunlight to stems;
- ventilates the crown;
- encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
- stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.
Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.
Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.
Preparatory procedures before pruning
Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before winter training plants:
- collect fallen leaves from the ground;
- carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
- try not to hurt the stem itself;
- stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.
Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.
The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:
Hilling bushes
- Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
- Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
- If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.
Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.
Cutting technology
The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.
After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:
Trimming process
- 3 year olds or older;
- from a large number side branches;
- covered with dry bark.
Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.
Different types of roses have their own pruning features:
- Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
- Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
- floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.
How to insulate roses for the winter
If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.
Preparing for winter
The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.
From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.
Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.
Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.
Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.
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