Protection of heat-loving roses by hilling. Preparing Roses for Winter Sheltering Shrub Roses

delicate flower not only protects itself with spikes. For all its external fragility, the plant turns out to be a real fighter, it can survive even the first frosts with dignity. It is precisely because of this stability that gardeners are always advised to what temperature roses can be left uncovered, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. At what temperature to cover roses for the winter, read right now.

When to cover roses for the winter

Under cover, roses can withstand long-term drops in temperature even to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea. So when is the best time to hide? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.

It is generally accepted that roses should be covered when the temperature is set at -5 ... -7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts will not only not damage roses, but rather harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered in the old fashioned way - a spud plus spruce branches. With this method, early packed roses could simply soak at positive temperatures, but now it is no longer necessary to wait for frost. Lutrasil transmits light, air and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. Weather late autumn unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a small minus (-5o), at which open roses will not suffer, or suddenly -12o- and they will immediately freeze.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and cover the bushes from October 15th. By this time, the vegetation of the roses stops, they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does not harm in any way. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.

Preparing roses for winter

Experienced gardeners know that leaving roses open for the winter is not worth it. By spring, they may die completely or be injured from frost. Which roses need to be covered for the winter, in what way, each gardener decides individually, based on personal experience. But preparatory work start early when lush bloom roses are pleasing to the eye. It is necessary to carry out planned activities from the middle of summer, so that the bush gain strength and be able to successfully winter:

• Stop making complex and organic fertilizers and switch to potassium and phosphorus;
• The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when potassium magnesia is scattered under the bushes to strengthen the roots.

Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning is compulsory procedure, which must be carried out with all roses, except climbing ones. There are several types of pruning:

• light shaping pruning. With such pruning, you just need to slightly shorten the shoots, leaving about two-thirds of them. The cut must be made with sharp scissors or secateurs, always at an acute angle about one and a half centimeters above the kidney, which grows outward;
• medium cut. Such pruning can be done with any rose bushes that have been growing with you for more than a year. The rules are the same as for forming pruning - an acute angle, a cut above the kidney, the kidney should grow outward;
• strong rejuvenating pruning. Such pruning should be carried out with plants that are five or more years old. It is an excellent rejuvenator for rose bushes, it stimulates flowering, growth of shoots, helps roses to easily overwinter and promotes good growth. With this method, stumps about 12-15 cm from the ground remain from the bush.

Pruning roses in the fall for beginners can sometimes seem like something difficult. This is not true at all - if you do not know how to prune your roses properly, shorten their shoots by half. With this option, you will form a crown, and rejuvenate your bush, and prepare it for cold winter. Medium pruning for beginners is a win-win.

Autumn processing of roses

The treatment of bushes with protective agents is carried out only after all the leaves have been disposed of. If flowers remain on the shoots, only the petals are removed, and the boxes are left. If they are cut off, the plant regards this as a signal for the activity of nearby buds. If the autumn is warm, they have time to germinate and die with the onset of frost. And that means they freeze. That is why those varieties that are not pruned for the winter are freed from leaves, but the fruits are not touched.

Many gardeners try to choose disease-resistant roses, but even they should be protected from possible diseases. Even if your yard is perfectly groomed, danger can come from a neighboring garden or from wild plantings. That is why you should not rely on chance and treat roses from infection. Especially if there are obvious symptoms of the disease. Autumn spraying with fungicides will not allow pathogens to survive until spring. This way you can avoid spreading it.

For this, both long-tested and modern drugs are used.

One of the most famous substances for autumn processing Roses are iron sulphate. For autumn spraying of roses, a solution is prepared from 300 g of the substance and 10 liters of water (3% solution). The treatment is carried out after complete dissolution of the crystals.

Iron vitriol can only be diluted in glass, plastic or enameled containers. In metal containers, chemical reaction with the release of harmful iron oxide. When working with the drug, precautions must be observed for means of the third hazard class.

Articles for flower growers

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

After pruning the mature shoots of roses, regardless of species, the hilling procedure is carried out. Hilling roses is carried out with the aim of:

• protect plants from cracking at the base of the stem;
• additionally warm the roots of the plant;
• protect the lower buds of plants from frost, which are on next year form new young shoots. Read also the article: → "Do I need to dig up roses for the winter."

Spud roses with loose compost, peat substrate and nutrient garden soil. It is not recommended to spud roses with materials such as shavings, sawdust, hay and straw. These materials often lead to decay of the basal neck of the bush, and are also a favorable environment for the propagation of fungal diseases.

The dependence of the method of insulation on the type of flowers

• Park Rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, seedlings or young bushes are best insulated. ground cover rose. This species does not require special care.
• floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, the leaves are removed. Then spud and cover with improvised materials. miniature rose. Small ones are spudded, covered with dry foliage and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arcs or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.

• Climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry foliage or needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber. Bush rose. The bush rose must be shortened and sprinkled with prepared earth with a layer of 30 cm. In this case, the entire gap must be filled. The vaccine should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. Tea-hybrid rose. The best defense method would be air dry shelter. Stamp rose. Apply air-dry shelter.

Country cheat sheet No. 8: “When to cover roses for the winter in autumn?”

The October issues of magazines for gardeners and gardeners are literally full of notes on the topic preparing plants for winter : pruning flowers and raspberries, cleaning perennials for storage, whitewashing trees, winter crops… autumn the summer resident has no less worries than in the summer. And if they grow on the site roses- it's time to think about shelter for the winter for them. All important information about when is the best time to cover roses for the winter , we have combined in one article. It turned out to be a very informative country cheat sheet, which, we hope, will be useful to both us and you 😉

1. Preparing roses for winter
2. It's time to cover the roses! Deadlines for Middle lane(including the Moscow region), the Urals and Siberia.
3. Auspicious dates for Lunar calendar for October and November 2018.
4. Fatal errors in the shelter of roses.
5. Shelter features standard roses.
6. How to cover roses if only stumps were left during pruning.

Preparing roses for winter

top dressing

From mid-August, it is necessary to finish feeding roses with nitrogen fertilizers, reduce or completely stop watering (depending on the weather). Starting from August, only phosphorus-potassium supplements are used in the rose garden. In autumn, on the eve of wintering, roses need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They help to restrain growth, contribute to the maturation of lignification of wood (lignification of shoots) and increase cold resistance. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can be applied from the end of August. Suitable superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash, as well as special complex "autumn" top dressing. If the autumn turned out to be long and warm, it is not too late to do the final feeding in the 2nd decade of October (if you didn’t have time in September). In addition, in the second mid-September, it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between the bushes, their formation, so as not to cause the development of shoots from dormant buds.

The scheme of strengthening feeding of roses in preparation for winter:

1. The first top dressing is made in mid-August. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 25 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 2.5 g boric acid. The solution is applied under the root at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
2. The second feeding is done in September. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Or you can use the complex "Autumn" mineral fertilizer.

* For foliar top dressing, the dosage is reduced by 3 times.

Pruning shoots

More recently, flower growers were of the opinion that in autumn rose bushes should certainly be cut, leaving stumps of about 30 cm, with 5-7 buds on the shoot. Now another technique is common: in the fall, the branches are bent to the ground, securely fixing them, and then covered for the winter. Pruning is carried out in a sparing mode, as needed: dry, diseased and very old, inflexible branches that prevent shelter, as well as unripe shoots of wen are cut out. It is believed that autumn pruning robs the plant of strength, requires huge expenses for their restoration. Bushes uncut in autumn endure winter better, and in spring they begin to grow faster and bloom earlier.

In autumn, it is advisable to cut branches if they interfere with shelter and can break when trying to bend them down. Pruning is done only to the height of the shelter, adjusted for the variety (there is a difference in pruning climbing, hybrid tea roses etc.).

It is better to prune roses in the middle - end of October., until the frosts descended, but the main heat is already behind. You should not rush with pruning, otherwise the buds will wake up, and the shoots will start growing again. Cuts on thick branches are useful to process garden pitch, and thin ones are green.

The main pruning is carried out in the spring, according to the results of wintering, after the removal of shelters,

Leaf pruning

Until late autumn, when it is time to prepare shelters, some varieties of roses are green and even bloom. If you leave everything as it is, during the winter, most likely, they will rot (and this will adversely affect the health of the entire plant).

Late October - early November(already after the first frost) the leaves must be removed, leaving no petioles. At the same time, the remaining flowers, ovaries and unripe shoots are cut off. Pruning is conveniently done with a small pruner or scissors. You should start from the bottom of the branches, gradually moving towards the tops.

If there is a lot of foliage and its removal becomes too time-consuming, you can get by with a little:

• Before shelter, treat the bushes with any copper-containing fungicide, following the recommendations on the package.
• Free from the leaves at least the base of the branches so that the bush is well ventilated, and then spray with any antifungal drug(with copper in the composition) or a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Treatment before shelter

After gentle pruning and removal of leaves, bushes are usually treated with fungicide solutions to prevent the spread of rot. In addition to the above funds (copper content preparations, iron sulfate), it is recommended to use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Should roses be planted for the winter?

The question is again controversial, here rose growers have two opinions:

• Hilling rose bushes will protect them in frosty, snowless winters. In this case, the hill will be useful.
• The base of the hilled bushes rots, so the hill will only do harm.

Conclusion: everyone chooses for himself whether to spud or not.

It is definitely worth abandoning hilling if the site itself is damp or the autumn turned out to be rainy, and the soil turned out to be oversaturated with moisture. In this case, hilling even with a pre-prepared dry soil mixture will be superfluous. It is advisable to carry out an okuchka if the autumn turned out to be dry, slightly frosty. A suitable mixture for hilling roses for the winter: dry and loose ripened compost with sand and peat. Do not use clean peat and sand - they gain moisture, and sawdust - rot.

Important! Standard roses need hilling in a mandatory order (about the features of their shelter - later in the text).

Shelter of roses for the winter: Optimal timing

After pre-training, with the onset of favorable weather, roses are ready for shelter for the winter! Question: when does this readiness come? So, the sources we analyzed say:

- cover roses you can start in the first decade of October (newspaper "AiF. In the country" ). While the weather is still warm enough, the shoots remain plastic, bend more easily (on frosty days, the shoots become brittle and brittle). The branches are bent and fixed in a horizontal position with metal pegs. Thick branches can be bent down gradually, in several steps. At the same time, shelter frames are being installed. Finally, roses cover in late October - early November, after the onset of persistent cold weather (and even light frosts), but before snowfall. At the final stage, the installed frames are covered with spunbond. Important! It is impossible to lay roses directly on the ground: there should be a gap between the surface of the soil and the shoots for ventilation, and one and a half liter plastic bottles or thick foam are placed as a “gasket”.

- Do not rush to cover ( magazine "Flower"). Roses should be thoroughly insulated on frozen ground, and it is better to prepare for this in advance - to start bend branches before frost (from mid-September). Roses are quite cold-resistant and easily endure light autumn frosts without shelter. Let the rains pass and begin to set sub-zero temperatures- then you can finally cover the roses with non-woven materials.

— Warm shelters for roses, it must be installed after the autumn frosts grab the ground or shortly before this moment - no earlier than November ("Homestead newspaper" ). A hasty shelter (at temperatures from zero and above) is fraught with the fact that the plants will begin to rot, the humidity rises, which creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections.

These terms can be applied both for the Middle Strip (including the Moscow region), and for the Urals and Siberia, since it is more worth relying on weather conditions, weather forecasts, and temperature indicators.

Favorable days according to the lunar calendar-2018

In October In 2018, astrologers recommend pruning and sheltering roses:

• 14th, 19th, 22nd, 27th, 28th and 31st.

According to the calendar from the magazine "Plant farming".

Not auspicious days for trimming in October:

• October 9, 17, 18, 19, 24 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

In November 2018 favorable days for sheltering roses for the winter:

• 1, 3, 17, 18, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 November.

Unfavorable days for pruning in November:

• November 7, 14, 15, 23 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

According to the calendar from the magazine "My Favorite Dacha".

7 mistakes in preparing roses for winter

1. Early cover. If you thoroughly cover the roses at temperatures above zero, there is a great danger that the bushes will soak and become easy prey for fungal infections. In early autumn - from mid-September - until the branches are frozen and bend well, you can begin to bend them to the ground. And it is better to start warming on frozen soil, not earlier than the end of October.

2. Bend branches in frosty weather can be dangerous. Frosts make the shoots brittle and brittle. The bark may crack, resulting in wounds that will become a gateway for different kind infections. It is recommended to start bending the branches in mid-September, and it is better to do it gradually, fixing the horizontal slope with metal pegs. It is convenient to use barbecue skewers for this - they "like clockwork" enter the ground, and it is easy to tie twine to the tip.

3. Early pruning of unripened shoots, while it is still warm, stimulates the active formation of new ones. It turns out monkey work. It is advised to prune unripened shoots (as well as leaves and remaining ovaries) only after the first frost (usually in the 3rd decade of October). In general, flower growers today agree that in the fall it is not necessary to carry out fork pruning; it is enough to remove old and diseased branches, and also selectively shorten them if they are difficult to cover.

4. A garter of roses with ropes made of natural materials is dangerous because during the winter it accumulates moisture and rots. Polypropylene twine is more suitable for this.

5. Sending roses under cover, you can not leave leaves on them. They will rot, the bushes will not be ventilated - all this opens the way for infections. In the second half of October, the leaves are cut with secateurs or, gently running hands in gardening gloves along the trunk, shake off the foliage. Attention! Rose leaves cannot be used in a shelter, they must certainly be removed from under the bush.

6. It is not worth lowering branches of roses on bare ground or film. It is desirable that it be dry under the branches. Bending down the shoots in front of the shelter, you can build a "platform" under them from plastic bottles or foam.

7. Ruberoid or polyethylene film is not very good as a covering material. Metal tanks and buckets are also better not to use. It is best to cover roses for the winter with dense lutrasil or spunbond, throwing them over a frame made of metal rods or chain-link mesh. It turns out a cozy mini-greenhouse.

How to cover roses if you had to cut them short in the fall

In the event that it was necessary to carry out a short pruning in the fall (in the old fashioned way), leaving stumps 30-40 cm high, it is advised to do this:

1. After pruning (usually after the first frost, in the first decade of October), treat the bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
2. Spud plantings with a dry soil mixture to a height of 20-25 cm, covering the horse's neck.
3. Leave the roses to harden until the beginning of November.
4. In the first decade of November, in dry weather, you can start warming. You do not need to bend anything, because the roses are cut short.

Ways to cover cut roses:

- The easiest way to cover roses cut in autumn is with spruce branches with a layer of at least 10-15 cm.

- The air-dry method of shelter is more often used (it is the most reliable): Build a frame over the bushes and cover it with hydro-thermal insulation material.

- Separate bushes can be insulated in this way: tie the branches of the bush together, surround it with a chain-link mesh in the form of a fence (diameter 30-50 cm). Fill the space between the bush and the mesh with soil mixture. Wrap the structure on top with spunbond in 2 layers. Straw, manure, hay moss are not suitable as insulation materials, as they absorb moisture and can provoke decay.

Features of the shelter of a standard rose

The main difficulty is to correctly determine the side of the slope, because the trunk at the grafting site is easy to break. An interesting comparison is given in an article on the shelter of standard roses in the Dacha newspaper:

• You need to imagine that the fingers in a clenched fist are a bump at the site of vaccination, and the trunk is a thumb. The trunk, like a thumb, should easily lie on the bump. The scheme clearly conveys this essence:

Procedure

1. A small hole is dug around the trunk, very carefully so as not to hurt root system.
2. The trunk is bent gradually, allowing it to get used to the new position. They bent - waited a couple of days, and so on, until the plant takes a horizontal position.
3. The hole is dug in, the base is covered with a dry soil mixture.
4. It is useful to put something hard under the barrel (a log or a plastic bottle) as a support for the barrel so that it does not break under the weight of snow.
5. The horizontal position is fixed with polypropylene twine, tying it to a metal peg.
6. Under the crown of a standard rose and on it, you can put spruce branches or dry oak leaves.
7. It would be useful to spray the plants with a solution of iron sulfate and put poison inside the shelter for mice who like to visit pink shelters in winter and feast on plantings.
8. In conclusion, they arrange an air-dry shelter for the entire plant as a whole, insulating the stem as well. A dense lutrasil or spunbond is thrown on top. It is better to refuse shelter with a film or roofing material.
9. If there is little snow in winter, it must be additionally thrown. The main insulation for roses is snow.

We hope that we really managed to collect the maximum information on the topic in this country cheat sheet, and it turned out to be useful for you. Write reviews, share your experience in the comments, we will be glad! 😉

Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.

All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.

Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.

We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.

By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be rain, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January, not everyone has the opportunity to open and ventilate their roses?

L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.

My hybrid teas sleep standing up...

Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have

loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds

and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.

Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.

By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.

I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".

Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.

Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.

Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.

I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.

I.Makhrova, rose collector.

There is no need to build towers over modern varieties of roses ...

I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.

If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on the lutrasil, then under cover it does not happen lower than -4’C.

I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.

The exception is, perhaps, only running bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.

In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!

Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.

I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?

I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.

G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden

Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!

I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than an air-dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.

I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.

I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.

If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.

I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.

Climbing roses must be laid on slate or roofing felt, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.

A. Teorina, master of growing roses.

Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather

When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.

I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a test cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.

I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).

Then, even if it rains, only the upper part of the earthen mound will get wet, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.

I remove the leaf.

I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.

If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!

K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.

Shelter of roses - 2 main ways

Many flower growers have seen from their own experience that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.

There are two main ways to cover roses.

1. Hilling When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, lightly spud the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).

After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.

When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.

In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.

Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.

Preparing roses for shelter

Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.

! Hilling the bushes is a must!

Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.

Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing in late autumn should be avoided.

This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in case of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.

! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..

The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.

! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.

Proper pruning of roses

Roses are pruned in autumn to create better conditions overwintering, just before shelter.

In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).

It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:

• hybrid tea roses cut in half;
• polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
• Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
• In climbing roses, only unripened tops and wen are cut off. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (over three years old). Before the onset of persistent frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Adult plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.

Shelter of spray roses

After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5 percent iron vitriol or .

Several ways to shelter roses in winter

Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".

More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.

The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.

! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.

It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” with plastic wrap on top. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.

! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.

The first way to protect roses

On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".

The second way to protect roses

As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.

! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.

The third way to hide roses

They use spruce branches, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.

The fourth way to protect roses

Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.

Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.

The fifth way to shelter roses

Another air-dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.

Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.

In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from soaking and rotting of shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.

The sixth way to shelter roses

In mild winters, such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. A simple and reliable way to hide. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.

Shelter of roses in tubs

Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.

If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.

Shelter of standard roses

Preparing standard roses for winter requires special efforts. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.

The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the trunk. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves

! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.

Shelter of climbing roses

Curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.

In regions with relatively mild winter climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.

There are currently many varieties climbing roses they don’t even insulate for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but it is necessary to spud the root system up to 20-25 cm.

Spring removal of shelters

In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.

Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.

• Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
• When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
• After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
• With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
• Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
• By the end of April - beginning of May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
• With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
• With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
• With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
• Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the first will give abundant flowering, and from the lower bud of a short shoot a new powerful replacement shoot will develop - the basis of next year's flowering.
• Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.

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