Should roses be spudded? We cover roses for the winter

Preparing roses for wintering

Roses are prepared for wintering in several stages:

1. In October, the soil under the roses is dug up (on a spade bayonet) or loosened with a pitchfork, trying not to damage the roots.

2. Shrub shoots and climbing roses you need to gradually, in several steps, bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.

3. Then the bushes spud, i.e. they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. At the same time, they do not rake the earth from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but pour it (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. circumcised hybrid tea roses and floribunda, as a result, are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.

Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such an earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.

With hilling roses for the winter, do not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.

It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.

4. When the earth freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses cover completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.

One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is relatively reliable. mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.

More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring: with air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be aired periodically.

The main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.

Most hybrid tea varieties, some floribunda roses and many english roses hibernate without protection if the temperature does not drop below -5°C.

In the middle lane, shelter usually does not serve as a protection against freezing, but rather as a way to maintain the same temperature around the root collar and thus exclude damage from alternating frosts and thaws. In addition, it prevents part of the plant from drying out.

Snow is beautiful insulating material: In areas with stable snow cover, roses require less thorough protection. In northern regions with winter temperatures down to -12 ° C, flower growers use sawdust, compost or garden soil for shelter.

Stages of hilling roses

You need to cover roses after several frosts, but before the ground freezes. In the north, this is usually done in mid-November. Once a constant is established negative temperature air, roses will no longer be able to do without shelter.

1. If the rose has grown too tall, you first need to shorten the stems so that they are not swayed by the wind.
2. Next, you need to check the location of the vaccination site. If planted correctly, the grafting site is underground. Otherwise, you need to add a layer of earth from 2.5 to 5 cm. Even if you have to raise the flower bed, the grafting site should still remain at the correct level.
3. The base of the bush and shoots are spudded to a height of about 30 cm using sawdust, compost or earth. The earth should be taken from another part of the garden: you can not dig near the bushes - this will damage the roots.

It is not recommended to unravel roses too early. Haste will negate all the work, as young shoots will die from frost. But it is also impossible to delay such work, because the shoots that have begun to grow under cover will be in danger of damping out.

With any sharp tool, even if you work carefully, it is easy to injure young shoots. It is better to unwind the roses with your hands or gradually blur the protective slide with a jet warm water. Compost or sawdust should be leveled around the bush. Part of the land taken in autumn for hilling roses from another part of the garden will probably need to be returned to its place. Leaves that will not be embedded in the soil are sent to compost.

Late spring frosts a problem for gardeners middle lane. Taking shelter here ahead of schedule is equivalent to its complete absence. The first forsythia flowers will be a reliable signal that it is time to remove the cover from the roses and start pruning.

You should not rush to throw away a bush that does not immediately show signs of life in the spring. Some roses, severely damaged in winter, are able to shoot only a few weeks after pruning. Usually roses are pruned in April, but you should wait until the end of May and only then dig out definitely dead bushes. You can find out about the safety of a bush like this: if you pull on it, but it does not give in, it means that it is alive; if a crack is heard, then, unfortunately, it will be required.

Good repeat and repeat again: we do not have roses that would not need shelter for the winter.

You need to cover absolutely all roses. In this article, we will look at a few important aspects this process:

• Do I need to spud the roots of roses.
• Is it necessary to tear off the leaves and process the cuts before wintering the roses.
• How to scare mice away from roses during the winter.
• When to bend the stems.
• Good Examples winter shelters.

Roots - spud or not

There have been discussions on this topic on FORUMHOUSE for years.

Chigsa FORUMHOUSE administrator

This method has both supporters and opponents. Therefore, this event is not mandatory.

Roses spud, making a mound about 30 centimeters high at the base of the bush. For hilling, you can not rake the earth directly from the pink flower bed, so as not to expose the roots of the plant, but bring it from another place. The consolidated opinion of the participants of our portal regarding the composition of the hill: it must be breathable.

Roses are best spudded with a mixture of soil and sand (50/50).

Peat and sawdust get wet and caked, straw - attractive environment for mice.

Actually, hilling is used to preserve during the winter a large number plant buds, because a higher temperature will remain under the hillock than outside, even in a snowless winter. Here are the arguments of supporters and opponents of the hill, we hope they will help you make the right decision:

For hilling	Against hilling
Spudding with earth is the most normal option for preserving roses. A wet hill is harmful to plants only when heated, in spring, and under a windproof shelter.	If the shoots are under a wet hill in the active sun for more than two weeks, dampening is ensured.
If the composition of the ridge is correct and breathable (if it is not 100% clay, 100% peat, sawdust or sand), the shoots under it always remain.	Hilling with earth leads to frost holes; if the roses are hilled, there are always frost holes after thaws, if they are not hilled, frost holes are microscopic or they are not at all.

Roses are usually spudded in two steps: they are slightly spudded in mid-autumn to protect the bush from autumn frosts, and finally - closer to winter.

Member of our portal with a nickname Nat spuds roses: the site is located in a lowland, and the probability of freezing is quite high. But he spuds the roses along the spruce branches: that is, first he covers the roses with spruce branches, then slightly spuds, then pulls the covering material over the arcs.

Nat

For the first time we tried spruce spruce spruce last year, because. noticed that the roses, in direct contact with the hillock, prey.

It is better not to use the hilling method if you have heavy loamy soils, so as not to increase the likelihood of damping off.

Marina659 FORUMHOUSE member

Don't worry about the bump! In the spring you will rake it as it thaws, and nothing will support it.

Whether to remove leaves, whether to process cuts

If the roses are healthy, then it is not at all necessary to remove the leaves, this will be a procedure from the “give yourself extra work” series; the leaves themselves will wilt and fall beautifully, following the natural cycle. Option: you can cut off only diseased leaves.

If there is some kind of infection on the leaves, then with the smallest frosts it will cease to be viable.

Helga

The whitefly does not bring any harm, and will not survive the winter. Spraying with an insecticide will not bring harm or benefit.

But if you are still worried about this, spray the plants before shelter with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

On the issue of processing slices, the rose growing gurus of our portal are categorical.

Helga

Don't give yourself too much work. You never need to process any sections of roses with anything.

When cutting roses for the winter, it is recommended to cut the cut obliquely, then rainwater will not remain on the cut, but immediately roll to the ground, and the cut will dry out quickly. It is better to cut the branch above the bud, which looks outside the bush, then the future process will grow outside the bush.

sw111 FORUMHOUSE Member

Then there is no need to process the slices. They dry up and live.

How to do mouse prophylaxis

For some rodent reason, mice adore roses as much as they love apple trees and grapes, and the thorns won't stop them. During the years of mouse pandemics, the rose garden can suffer very seriously.

GALAS

My whips have been nibbled this year.

An excellent means of prevention was given to the participants of our portal by the famous Russian scientist, breeder Ivan Puchkin: this is ordinary birch tar. Ivan Alexandrovich impregnates pieces of old felt boots with tar and places them next to the plants.

Tar to repel mice is also successfully used by the participants of our portal, the experience is always positive.

MiLeDi Member of FORUMHOUSE

Mice don't like it very much! Of course, this is more time-consuming than throwing poison bait. I have been using tar for 5 years, it is not washed off by rain, the smell under the shelter of roses remains until spring. Under bushes-trees less, but mice also do not like it.

Here is another way to use birch tar (the product is sold in a pharmacy).

1. We hang it on branches, wind it on columns of tape moistened with tar.
2. We lay out pieces of cotton wool soaked in tar in dangerous places of mouse migrations.

When to bend roses

Despite the fact that roses easily tolerate small frosts, and it is recommended to cover them already with slight frosts, it is better not to put off bending down until this time.

Pucha Member of FORUMHOUSE

At a stable -5, the stems will be brittle and may break when laid.

Climbing and standard roses, as well as floribundas, bend down in the middle of autumn, until the stems have lost their flexibility.

They bend down for a long time and gradually: they tie the plant by a rope, the second end of the rope is tied to a peg stuck in the ground (barbecue skewer). Once a week, the rose is slowly pulled to the ground by the rope until the distance above the ground is 50 cm. From above, the plant is covered with a double layer of the 60th lutrastil.

Examples of successful winter shelters

The shelter that a member of our portal with the nickname made for his roses ghost73:

• made frames;
• stapled to them three layers of thin spunboard;
• on top of 2/3 covered with a layer of craft paper and geotextile;
• the resulting hut was tied with burlap.

The ends will be closed with spruce branches, which is always enough in the household of a member of our portal: I regularly trim the Christmas trees that I planted near the bathhouse.

FORUMHOUSE members do not approve of felling spruce branches in the forest to cover roses.

A member of our portal has a successful experience of sheltering roses Andrew 61, roses have been wintering under it for 20 years and do not freeze.

At the first stage, a serious preparation of roses for wintering is done.

Andrey 61 Member of FORUMHOUSE

1. I do pruning with the removal of leaves.
2. I put metal arcs from reinforcement F 10.0.
3. Before covering with material, I remove all debris - leaves from fallen trees, etc., then spray or pour Bordeaux mixture over.

Shelter is made of arcs from several layers:

• the first layer of film;
• batting;
• second layer of film.

The edges of the film are pressed with bars or pipe trimmings.

Andrew 61

They overwinter excellently. They will not be able to suffocate if the film lies on the arcs, the height of the arcs in a radius is approximately 0.8 m. Roses breathe freely.

One of the main rules for successful wintering was formulated by the authoritative FORUMHOUSE rose grower with the nickname stefan.

How big square shelter, the more successful wintering. The larger the buffer, the slower the temperature drops and the slower the rise.

Another member of our portal with a nickname prety covers roses with everything at hand: office plastic trash cans, flowerpots, etc.

prety

Under each rose is a handful of ashes and a pile of dry earth from under petunias.

Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.

All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.

Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.

We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.

By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be rain, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January, not everyone has the opportunity to open and ventilate their roses?

L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.

My hybrid teas sleep standing up...

Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have

loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds

and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.

Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.

By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.

I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".

Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.

Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.

Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.

I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.

I.Makhrova, rose collector.

Above modern varieties roses do not need to fence towers ...

I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.

If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on the lutrasil, then under cover it does not happen lower than -4’C.

I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.

The exception is, perhaps, only running bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.

In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!

Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.

I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?

I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.

G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden

Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!

I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than air dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.

I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.

I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.

If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.

I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.

Climbing roses must be laid on slate or roofing felt, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.

A. Teorina, master of growing roses.

Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather

When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.

I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a test cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.

I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).

Then, even if it rains, it will only get wet top part earthen mound, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.

I remove the leaf.

I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.

If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!

K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.

Shelter of roses - 2 main ways

Many flower growers own experience made sure that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.

There are two main ways to cover roses.

1. Hilling When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, lightly spud the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).

After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.

When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.

In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.

Rice. one root system four-year hybrid tea rose His Majesty. adventitious roots: but.- formed above the grafting site on the root collar b.- two tiers of shoots are visible - the result of hilling and backfilling.

Rice. 2 root system annual own-rooted polyanthus rose Orange Triumph.

Rice. 3 root system a four-year-old grafted New Down climbing rose; but- adventitious roots b- roots formed above the grafting site

During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.

In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.

In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.

Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.

In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.

This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.

Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.

They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.

At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.

Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: it stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (in remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).

Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.

Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).

Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.

In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.

After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.

Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.

For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.

Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.

In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.