What water to water onions. How to water onion sets after planting? Perennial bows for every taste

This is what our expert calls for, head of the laboratory for breeding and seed production of onion crops VNIISSOK, candidate of agricultural sciences Sciences Alexander Agafonov.

Among vegetable crops onion is one of the first places both in terms of planting area and in popularity. In total, 357 varieties of onions are listed in the Russian register. Of which 197 are onions.

Onion "classic"

First of all, when choosing a variety, you need to pay attention to where it is recommended for cultivation and forms largest harvest. The territory of Russia is vast and very diverse: in different points light, temperature and soil conditions are incredibly different. And the bow reacts very sharply to the change geographical location- if you transfer the most beautiful and good varieties from Krasnodar to the Moscow region, then you will only lose time without receiving either moral or material satisfaction.

Sweet onion varieties for the middle lane do not yet exist in principle - this is due to the light regime. When grown in middle lane they still end up producing bulbs with a spicy and semi-sharp taste. A real sweet onion is obtained only in the south.

What to choose?

The Russian market for planting material and seeds is still imperfect. Therefore, you need to choose the seller very carefully. It is best to turn to trusted, existing for more than one year, working with this particular culture, organizations that have their own varieties and base, and not to one-day firms and not to street vendors. Most of them do not even observe the sevka storage mode - after all, the bulbs are perfectly preserved at low temperatures, they have marketable condition, but then, during germination, they give out a palisade of arrows. Well, then - a matter of taste. Choose depending on the size, color and your own preferences. Of course, in the garden there must be not one, but several varieties.

Depending on the variety and climate zone onions can be grown from both seeds and sets. Plants from sets are less whimsical and more reliable. Bulbs initially contain a stock nutrients, and there is a guarantee to get a large, shaped, good bulb. But there are varieties that can be grown in an annual crop by sowing seeds and get good results. Especially in the southern regions, where summer is much longer, it is often more profitable there not to spend an extra season on growing sets and efforts to store it, but to grow onions directly from seeds. In any case, the sowing of seeds should be done as early as possible - only then is it guaranteed to get a high yield of high-quality onions.

We plant correctly

There is no need to rush with planting a seedling: the soil should warm up to at least 10 ° C. In the middle lane, this is usually the third decade of April-early May. May holidays are the best time. But it also makes no sense to be late: productivity, marketability, resistance to pests and diseases are sharply reduced. Therefore, it is desirable to be in time before May 10.

Onions should be planted on ridges or on ridges, especially when they are close ground water. The raised ridge contributes to a better supply of air, heat, which means - better assimilation nutrients.

It is rational to place the bow in several lines, the distance between which should be sufficient for subsequent processing with a hoe. The step between the bulbs is about 8 cm, the depth is 3-4 cm. The bulbs are not just laid out in rows, but slightly pressed in so that the growing roots do not bulge out. Otherwise, the sevok can quickly be above the surface of the earth, after which curious birds will pull it out and scatter it with great pleasure. And we don't need it at all.

Loosening - fight weeds

In order to make life easier for yourself, to help better plant formation and a higher yield, the onion must be systematically loosened. The procedure must be carried out after each watering or rain, at least once a week. You should not try to compensate for the missed loosening with its depth, it only brings harm - it is strongly not recommended to disturb the soil deeper than 5-7 cm. What is it connected with? Myriads of weed seeds of different generations lie in the ground, but at a depth of more than 5 cm they do not germinate. It is worth raising them higher (and this is inevitable with deep loosening) - and the bed will “bloom” with weeds that will take moisture and food from the onion and release oppressive poisonous substances. The absence of "competitors" contributes to better breathing of the root system and good nutrition. Therefore, if you loosen to the same depth, everything will be fine: both onions are good and there is less weeding.

Watering

The next secret to success is hydration. High yield without watering in the first 60 days is unthinkable. The nature of the onion is as follows: with a lack of moisture, the plant forms 3-4 leaves, forms a small onion and hibernates. The homeland of this plant is Central Asia, where everything blooms luxuriantly and smells sweet only in spring, but then hibernates in anticipation of winter coolness and moisture. And it is worth creating our varietal bow arid conditions- he instantly rushes "back to nature", after which this small onion cannot be brought out of rest by anything.

Therefore - constant watering in the first 60 days after planting. You don’t need to water daily: onions are not cucumbers and cabbages. Twice a week is enough. This is also true for "weekend summer residents": it is easy to organize watering on Friday immediately upon arrival and on Sunday before departure.

Cold water must not be used. Only warmed up, stood in barrels during the day. It is strictly forbidden to water the onions on the leaves! Just gently moisten the soil between rows. Otherwise, we ourselves create a microclimate that contributes to the infection of plants with downy mildew - peronosporosis. No sprinkling, no watering cans with strainers!

But starting from the second half of summer (in the middle lane, the Orthodox holiday can be considered a landmark - the day of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, July 12), most varieties form bulbs. Further, they do not need moisture - by analogy with their homeland Central Asia where it is hot and dry at this time. Only under this condition will a high-quality, tasty bulb be formed with a high content of dry matter and sucrose, due to which it is better stored.

The good keeping quality of the bulb is related to its dry matter and sucrose content. Not any sugars, namely sucrose - the more it is, the longer our healing product is stored. It depends mainly on the variety, as well as on the growing conditions: in dry and hot summers, more solids and sucrose accumulate in the bulb, and it is better stored. Much depends on the person: this is the observance of the sowing dates, the irrigation regime and nutrition.

Fertilizers and top dressing

The onion root system is very weak, 90% of it is located in a soil layer 30 cm deep. Accordingly, this crop needs fertile, rich in humus, humus and other soil elements. The culture under which it was introduced is suitable as a predecessor. a large number of organic fertilizers: this is a cucumber, tomato, cabbage, etc. However, it is absolutely impossible to bring fresh organic matter under the onion! It promotes late development, worse maturation, accumulation harmful substances, disease damage, worse keeping quality - the whole bunch of negative phenomena. It is allowed to introduce humus or semi-rotted compost in the fall before digging. At the same time, complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are added. Nitrogen fertilizers can be fed in the spring, in the first period of growth, combining them with watering.

The landing site must be changed annually - otherwise the same onion fly, peronosporosis, bacterial and cervical rot.

Use of manure and large doses ammonium nitrate negatively affects the taste of onions, contributes to the accumulation of ammonia and nitrates in it, but ... “feeds” large onions. Overfed plants suffer from late ripening and reduced keeping quality. However, producers, especially tenants from countries South-East Asia, often sin by introducing huge doses of ammonium nitrate. When choosing a larger “remedy for seven ailments” on the market, be aware that this is not always a sign of a variety, but in most cases an excess of mineral nitrogen fertilizers with all the ensuing negative consequences.

Problem solving

The most dangerous onion diseases are peronosporosis, gray cervical and bacterial rot. You can avoid them through agricultural technology. To get started: choose more resistant varieties, for example, Borodkovsky, Boterus, Tervin. And interspecific hybrids are genetically resistant to peronosporosis - Golden Domes, Sigma, Sputnik. Many lovers ask whether it is necessary to crush, roll, break onion leaves in order to speed up ripening? It is this technique that contributes to the fact that infection occurs. Through fractures and wounds, the infection enters the leaf, then through the neck it penetrates into the bulb, develops - as a result, it dries or rots during storage. The onion plant, like any other living being, has a genetic code that determines the ripening algorithm without our help. Therefore, violent fractures bring nothing but harm.

The most common pest is the onion fly. The greatest harm brings when sowing seeds on the bulb.

The first flight of the fly occurs approximately in the third decade of May, when weak plants have only one true leaf. The fly lays eggs on the ground, and the hatched larvae bite into the growth point, eating away the nutrients. What can be done about this? For example, combine sowing onions with carrots. There is an opinion that carrots repel pests. A more radical way is to treat the leaves from the spray gun with an insecticide during the first flight of the fly. Then oviposition does not occur. And by the summer of the second generation of flies, the plants are already adults, and the larvae practically do not harm them.

Podzimny sowing

The main advantages are in saving the budget (prices for planting material are always lower in autumn) and in an earlier and better harvest (in spring, winter onions have time to absorb the first moisture, heat and take advantage of the length of the day, especially if you help it loosen). But there is a problem - the sevok needs a strictly defined size, not exceeding 15 mm (preferably closer to 10 mm). But a very small one is also not good - it hibernates worse and is poorly formed. What are the size requirements? Small onions will not be able to shoot themselves, but larger overwintered specimens will certainly release arrows, but they themselves will not really grow.

Planting time - 2 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather, when the temperature drops below 5 ° C. Before October 15, it is absolutely impossible to land. At early dates planting may premature regrowth. Later dates threaten that the plant will not have time to take root and freeze. If the plant is rooted, this is enough, it will overwinter well. Last year it was very warm in November, so every year it is necessary to act according to the weather.

Shallot

A characteristic feature of shallots is strong branching and the ability to get up to 30 “nests” from one planting bulb, weighing from 10 to 50 g each. After rooting and germination, the bulb forms up to 10-15 shoots, bearing 5-7 tubular, narrow leaves collected in a compact bush. They differ in juiciness, tenderness, aroma, high nutritional value, contain mineral salts and vitamins. green onion usually ready for harvest in a month, and the bulbs - on the 60-75th day after the start of leaf growth. That is, 15-20 days earlier than the most early-ripening onion variety. Shallot bulbs are sharp and semi-sharp in taste, dense, cold-resistant and lie perfectly until the new harvest.

Shalot refers to independent species onion family, but some researchers consider it a kind of onion. By its nature, this perennial, but is mainly cultivated as annual crop planting bulbs. It can also propagate by seeds. Planting for early ripening bulbs is carried out in early spring. To obtain a marketable onion, small planting material is needed - it will give a "family" of a small number of large bulbs. But if they want to get as many small bulbs as possible in the nest (for breeding or getting green onions), then they use large planting bulbs.

Shallot care consists in the destruction of weeds, loosening, top dressing, and with a lack of moisture in the soil, watering is needed.

Perennial bows for every taste

Green onion leaves serve as an excellent source of vitamins and other valuable substances that protect the human body from many dangerous diseases and surpass bulbs in their usefulness. And yet - in addition to the usual onion feather, you can grow a wide variety of onions for greens, and they should be used to the maximum! All perennial onions, as a rule, are very winter-hardy and withstand frosts down to -50 ° C. They practically do not get sick, which means they give environmentally friendly products without the use of chemicals. Vitamin C and carotene in perennial onions are 2-3 times more than in onions.

Diversity

Bow-batun. The most common and well-known of the perennial bows. It does not form bulbs and can grow in one place for 5-6 years. It winters well, and its green leaves can be cut several times during the summer and used for salads, seasonings, drying, etc. The yield of batun is quite high - up to 6 kg per square meter for 3-4 cuts. The most common and productive variety- Russian winter

In chives, the leaves are fistulate in shape, like onions or batun, but rather miniature and thin. Schnitt is superior to batun in yield and content ascorbic acid. And its decorative qualities - beautiful flower stalks from white to dark purple, depending on the variety - deserve special attention. They can decorate flower beds, curbs of paths, combining business with pleasure.

For perennial bows, the rest period is short, therefore late autumn and in winter they can be used for growing in protected ground and even on the windowsill.

Onion-slizun - flat-leaved. Its leaves are similar to garlic leaves - dense, juicy, high in iron and potassium, a real medicine. Well received by gardeners: those who have tried slime salad will not eat onions! It is distinguished by high productivity, winter hardiness, high decorative qualities. Varieties: Leader - with pink-red color, Charm - with almost white color of inflorescences.

Allium fragrant - also flat-leaved, with high winter hardiness, Interesting feature varieties of fragrant onion Piquant and Aprior - in blooming form they smell deliciously of almonds and hyacinth, especially in evening time! No other variety and type of onion can boast of this. And thanks to the remontant nature, the flowering of allium fragrant is stretched from July until the onset of frost.

Growing Secrets

Schnitt, batun, slizun and other perennial onions (fragrant, Altai, oblique, multi-tiered) are simple in agricultural technology. They can grow in one area up to 5-6 years, bringing highest yield green leaves from the 2nd to the 4th year. The first to grow is a multi-tiered onion - at the end of April, then Altai and onion-batun - in early May, in mid-May - chives, and at the end of May - oblique. Later, slime and fragrant grow, which, however, retain tenderness and good taste leaves until late autumn, so they are used before the onset of stable cold weather.

When growing perennial onions, it is necessary to choose elevated areas of relief in order to avoid autumn and spring flooding. The soil should be light, highly fertile, neutral or slightly acidic.

Sowing seeds, planting seedlings, dividing bushes from perennial plantations - all these methods are suitable for perennial onions. Seeds are sown on a flat surface, on ridges or ridges, depending on the height of the site and soil temperature. Before sowing, the seeds must be treated with a fungicide to disinfect from harmful microorganisms. At annual cultivation seeds are sown early in spring in 2-3 lines to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. And the crop is harvested by digging up the plant along with the roots. When grown for more than 2 years, the leaves begin to be cut in the second year. During the season, 2-4 cuts are carried out, the last - no later than August. For earlier greens, onion plantings are covered with a film - this accelerates their growth by 10-14 days, and the greens turn out to be more tender and juicy. When propagated by dividing the bushes, the plants are planted in May or August in an ordinary way.

Care - loosening, top dressing, if necessary - watering. Starting from the second year of life, as soon as the snow melts, last year's remnants of leaves are removed and fed with 10 g / m2 of nitrogen and potash and 15 g / m2 of phosphorus fertilizers. After each cutting of green leaves, top dressing is also carried out, combining it with watering.

Tervin- mid-season, maturing, spicy taste, resistant to bacterial and cervical rot.

golden- mid-early, small nested, 1-2 bulbs per nest. Bulb of semi-sharp taste, good keeping quality.

Sevok can be from 10 to 30 mm in diameter.

Kolobok- fruitful, transportable and lying.

Handsome- bulb original form and color, high taste, high content of biologically active substances.

Kuchum- small nested, 1-2 bulbs per nest, mid-season. The bulb is dense, semi-sharp taste, high keeping quality.

Golden domes- small nested, 1-2 bulbs in the nest. The bulb is dense, spicy taste, high keeping quality. Highly resistant to downy mildew!

Shallot Star. Early ripe, from germination to bulb harvesting - 76 days. Taste qualities of leaves and bulbs are high. Stored for 7 months.

Watering any crop without any mode and "by eye" is a deliberate damage to planting material. When the plant receives the doses of moisture it needs and systematically, it will thank you good harvest and quality product. And therefore, once again we will touch on the issue of watering onions in the garden, namely how to do it correctly, how often to water.

How often should onions be watered on a turnip?

Like it or not, the onion loves water, and will rejoice at every moistening of the soil. During the growing season, you can significantly affect the size of the turnip with the help of competent watering. We divide this process into main parts:

• after planting, this culture very acutely feels the lack of moisture, so May-June is a period of active watering (about once a week we can safely use up to 12 liters for each “square”);
• you often and actively began to water onion sets, and by mid-June it had already begun to grow, since the roots were nourished, now you need to leave the same frequency of moisture application until mid-July, but reduce its amount to eight liters;
• in the hottest period of the year from mid to late July, you will have to water the onion on the turnip really often, as the soil dries up in a matter of days, and you need to make up to six liters every five days without a doubt.

But it is not enough to know how often to water the onion, it is important to do it correctly. In this case, the most important thing is to leave the foliage intact. If the bed is small and you can do without the help of a hose, take a watering can and put a strainer on it. Watering is allowed only in this way, because it will be effective and at the same time gentle for the plant.

Next, make sure that moisture seeps into about 20 cm of soil. It is better to do this in the evening and then loosen the soil. Then the access of oxygen will be normal and the plantings will not begin to rot. For three weeks, we stop all watering completely. Thus, you will increase the shelf life harvested crop, and the turnips will not begin to crack.

In principle, it is enough to simply water often and nothing more needs to be done, since the onion sets do not need any additional feeding. But if things are clearly going sluggishly, a solution of mullein and saltpeter will always become your associates.

How often to water onions on a feather?

If we talk about cultivation, then most often it is open ground or greenhouses with soil. When it comes to, the concept of “frequently watering” changes significantly, since sawdust is often used instead of soil. And here a noticeable difference in technology and proportions already begins.

Sawdust dries much faster than sand and soil, so here all the standard recommendations for onions are not relevant, since they will have to be watered often, otherwise. If watered square meter ten liters of water (as we do for soil), the area will be completely covered, only moisture will seep only a few millimeters. So it will be more difficult to wet sawdust and saturate them with moisture for planting: you will have to water the beds abundantly in several visits at intervals of ten minutes. How to check the quality of watering: sawdust should not be dry and crumble in your hand, but they do not float in water either.

It only seems at first that growing onions is a simple matter that does not require special knowledge: stick the onion into the ground and water it, that's all. But in practice, it turns out that various top dressings are required, the choice of which depends on the purpose of growing onions - to obtain green feathers or large and juicy turnips. For those decided to land on personal plot onions, tips and recipes for top dressing, proven in practice, will come in handy.

For growing onions, loamy soils with a slightly alkaline or neutral reaction are preferred. acidic soils also suitable for growing bulbous plants, but the yield will not differ high rates. That's why great importance given to the preparation of the soil, the illumination of the place for planting and the choice of planting material.

To avoid the appearance of arrows, the day before planting, the seedlings need to be warmed up, for example, near the battery

If sevok will be used for growing onions, it is recommended to choose an arbazheyka of the first group with a diameter of onions from 8 mm to 1.5 cm, and the second group, in which the bulbs are slightly larger - their diameter is 1.5–2.2 cm.

Arbazheyka is called an onion set weighing 2–5 g, which is obtained in the first year after sowing nigella - small black onion seeds.

Sweet onion of the Exhibition variety can reach 900 g and, when cut, does not irritate the mucous membrane of the eye

When purchasing seeds for planting, you should pay attention to their expiration date: if the seeds are stale, it is likely that they will not sprout. It is also necessary to choose the right onion variety suitable for growing in the local climate. If you do not follow this rule and put in southern region a variety adapted for the northern regions, then the plant will constantly increase its leaf mass, and the size of the bulbs will remain underdeveloped. When planting an onion variety zoned for the north of the country, bulbs will form faster, and growing season will decrease, which will eventually also lead to a halt in their growth.

Effect of plant spacing on bulb size

Bulb size is also affected by the distance between plants. To obtain a large underground part, planting material must be placed at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other, and the row spacing must be at least 25 cm. Subject to these conditions, as well as weekly loosening, weeding the soil and ensuring regular watering with soil moisture to a depth of up to 30 cm (at least 1 time per week), the bulbs will develop faster and increase their mass.

To build up a large mass of bulbs between planting material a distance of at least 10 cm must be maintained

Unlike other garden crops, onions do not require hilling, as it inhibits the ripening of the bulbs.

To bulbous plants gave a good increase, you need to take into account the rules of dressing.

• First, try not to use fresh manure. Many types of onions simply cannot tolerate it and begin to hurt, resulting in reduced yields.
• Secondly, when using dressings, do not allow them to get on the onion greens.
• Thirdly, observe the dosage of organic fertilizers, otherwise, increased growth of the aerial part will begin, and the bulbs will remain small.
• Fourthly, after each top dressing, you need to water the plantings and loosen the ground, so fertilizers are better and faster absorbed into the soil.
• Fifth, stop fertilizing and watering 3 weeks before harvesting, otherwise the onions will ripen for a long time and deteriorate faster in the future.

Even fertile soil depleted over time, so the use of fertilizers is a mandatory onion care item

The optimal time of day for top dressing is evening, and the ideal weather is dry and calm.

Fertilizers for spring onions per head

If used as a feed yeast nutrition, then a large underground part will grow at the onion. For the preparation of such a fertilizer, it is allowed to use both dry and raw yeast, which must be dissolved only in warm water.

1. First you need to dissolve the yeast: 10 g granular in 10 liters of water, or 100 g raw in 5 liters.
2. Add to the resulting solution 2 tbsp. crushed and sifted ash, as well as 5 tbsp. l. granulated sugar.
3. Leave the fertilizer for 1 hour to infuse.
4. Use top dressing for watering under the root of the plant.

Thanks to yeast top dressing, the soil is saturated with nitrogen and oxygen, and the work of yeast fungi improves soil structure by displacing pathogenic flora. The effect of the impact of yeast top dressing is especially noticeable on soil poor in humus and on depleted land.

Top dressing for onions in June

In June, onions need fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. A lack of potassium manifests itself in the form of yellowed leaves, and with a deficiency of phosphorus, the tops of the bulbs begin to dry. When using such dressings, bulbous turnips are formed, their ripening is accelerated and the quality is improved - they increase in size and become denser, due to which they are better stored.

Recipes for potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which are enough to feed 2 square meters. m of onion plantings:

• A solution of nitrophoska, for which you need 2 tbsp. l. top dressing for 10 liters of water.
• 1 st. l of ammonium nitrate and salt dissolve in 10 l of water and add 10 g of 1% iodine.
• Herbal tincture - pack a bucket of water by 30% with green weeds or nettles, pour 3 liters of water, dissolve 1 tbsp. l. yeast and leave to infuse for 3 days. Dilute the resulting concentrate with 9 liters of water.

A large bulb is formed when using potassium-phosphorus fertilizers

To accelerate the growth of onions, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are also applied to the soil. Can be used as a fertilizer ammonia: for 1 bucket of water, with a volume of 10 liters, you will need only 3 tbsp. l. ammonia. For 1 sq. m of onion plantings, 1-2 liters of the resulting solution is enough.

A good effect is observed when using organic fertilizers: in 10 liters of water you need to dilute 1 tbsp. l. urea and add 1 tbsp. mullein or chicken manure. It's even easier to make another one. organic feeding- dissolve 1 tbsp. manure in 10 liters of water. For 1 sq. m of the plot on which onions are grown, you will need 3 liters of fertilizer.

When fertilizing, it is important to observe the dosage: if it is exceeded, the growth of green mass will increase, and the onion head will remain underdeveloped. And the lack of nitrogen in the soil can be determined visually - onion feathers will be underdeveloped and pale.

Fertilizers for onions

To obtain excellent harvest onions, you will need to carry out at least three dressings during the growing season.

• The first feeding is carried out 12 days after planting. As a rule, this happens after the feather reaches a length of 10–15 cm. In 10 liters of water, 2 tbsp should be diluted. l. complex top dressing "Vegeta" or "Ideal", and add 1 tbsp. l. urea. This amount is enough for landings occupying 5 square meters. m. of land. Another feeding recipe that is easy to prepare with your own hands: in 1 ten-liter bucket of water, you need to dissolve 20 g of potassium chloride, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of ammonium nitrate.
• The second - after 26 days have passed after planting the bulbs in open ground. For 1 sq. m of beds occupied by onions, you will need 4-5 liters of fertilizer for onions or garlic. good recommendations among gardeners deserved "Agricola No. 2", which is also suitable for the second top dressing.
• The third top dressing should be carried out after the formation of bulbs with a diameter of about 4 cm. In this case, you can use a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Effekton-O. For 10 liters of water you will need 2 tbsp. l. "Effekton-O" and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate. Instead of a complex mineral fertilizer, you can prepare another nutrient solution: dissolve 30 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is enough for 2 square meters. m landings.

Agricola No. 2 is a special harmless fertilizer that improves taste qualities and onion yield

Immediately before top dressing, the ground must be moistened, and then the aisles should be loosened with a flat cutter.. After loosening, top dressing is better absorbed into the soil and will not spread. Liquid fertilizers it is more convenient to spill into the aisles with a watering can.

When applying fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account weather: if the weather is rainy, then superphosphate with potassium salt is applied without dissolving in water. Dry fertilizers should be applied to the soil to a depth of 6-9 cm, at a distance of 8 cm from the bulbs themselves.

For root dressing of onions, this solution is perfect: in 10 l cold water need to dissolve 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate, salt, and then add a few crystals of potassium permanganate until a solution of a moderate pink color is obtained. You can water the onions with the resulting fertilizer abundantly, but carefully so as not to burn the aerial part. After 3-4 days, you need to shed the plantings cold water. This fertilizer will have a double effect: in addition to the formation of large bulbs, it will scare away the onion fly and protect against diseases.

Folk remedies for better bulb growth

Adherents of organic fertilizers can use slurry: for 1 bucket of 10 liters you will need 1 tbsp. manure. This top dressing should be applied during the first top dressing of onion plantations.

For the second top dressing, which directly affects the size of the bulbs, you can use herbal slurry: the weeds growing in the summer cottage will benefit - they need to be filled with water, and oppression, for example, stones or bricks, should be placed on top. After three days, the nutrient liquid is ready for use.

Herbal slurry - effective remedy for the growth of bulbs, which is prepared from weeds growing at their summer cottage

Ordinary ash is useful as a third top dressing: 250 g of the substance must be poured into 10 liters of boiling water, and left to infuse for four days.

The use of organic fertilizers is a harmless and proven method used for bulb growth.

Difficulty finding a vegetable garden country cottage area, on which they would not organize watering onions, because all vegetables require moisture when they grow and ripen. IN different periods Vegetables need different amounts of water to grow. Therefore, how to water the onions, and even the first time after planting, is not an idle question at all.

Usually, all vegetables are watered after planting, some more, others less. Some farmers also suggest planting onions in very moist soil or watering well as soon as they are planted. They explain this by the fact that small roots must find nutrients, and without water this is impossible. Others say that the onion does not need much moisture, as it comes from the arid climate of Central Asia.

In the homeland of wild onions, it receives moisture in the spring, manages to grow a few leaves, and then a dry hot summer comes - the onion falls into a dormant state until the winter rains. So our varietal onion grows intensively, receiving moisture, and with its lack, it slows down growth and can fall asleep, that is, stop growing a turnip and form leaves. So watering, of course, is necessary. The intensity of irrigation and the amount of water depend on the climate, the amount of rain, the time and method of planting. There are different approaches to this issue in the case of sowing seeds and planting sevka, when planting in spring and before winter. Each case requires its own amount of water and method of watering after planting.

How many times to water

Onions definitely need moisture to grow and ripen. Otherwise, where will the turnip get its mass and juiciness from? But everything should be within reasonable limits. If the site is in the area high humidity, it is better to make a high bed with good drainage so that the water does not stagnate. Otherwise, the owner risks getting rotten onions with the whole set of fungal diseases. If the rains a rarity, and the onion does not threaten to be in the middle of a puddle, the bed can be on a flat area, not higher than other vegetables.

At early landing before winter, when they plan to get several fresh green leaves before frost, after placing the seedlings in the soil, the bed is watered abundantly. Since the onion has to grow, it can be moistened a few more times if necessary. It is easy to check by simply touching the ground with your hand to the depth of your palm, the main thing is simply to prevent drying out. When sevok is planted in the ground just before the frost, it should not grow until spring, on the contrary, it should be at rest. This means that they plant it in specially unmoistened soil, after which they do not water it. It doesn't matter if it rains - that's why it's autumn, but special watering is not needed.

At spring planting or sowing, you must immediately allow the plant to take root and begin to grow, so watering is needed. But here it is important not to overdo it. In the spring, not only onions grow - bacteria are activated that can cause various diseases, pests that carry them. It is enough to water 1 or 2 times a week (if there is no rain), it will take approximately 10 liters of water per 1 m2. This is the first time after planting, then the amount of water is slightly reduced. Such a watering calendar is quite suitable even for summer residents of the “weekend”, moderate watering on Fridays and Sundays is quite enough.

Features of proper watering

It is believed that for the first 2 months the onion is actively growing, releasing feathers, increasing the mass of the turnip - accordingly, it needs watering. And stop watering when the turnip has gained the desired mass (in accordance with the capabilities of the variety). After that, the onion prepares for a dormant period - it stops growing, the leaves begin to fall, the neck stretches, dries up. Here, watering can only do harm.

Watering onions is recommended only warm water- cold can bring more harm than good. Useful if you use water that has been previously collected in metal barrel and during the day it not only settled, but also warmed up well in the sun. Onion you need to water carefully so that water does not get inside the leaves (in the neck), as well as on the turnip itself - this can carry a threat of decay. But if the kuschevka or any other onion is grown for the sake of feathers, the roots sit deep in the ground, then you can pour it from above from a watering can, moisture will not damage the leaves either.

It is usually said that onions are watered as needed. How can this need be determined? It is necessary to check the earth (just with your hand) and not let it dry out, but do not turn it into a swamp. The lack of water will immediately affect the leaves - they will become flatter, turn white, the tips will begin to dry. An excess will make the leaves light green, watery.

Video "All about watering onions"

In this video you can hear all the details and a lot of tips about watering onions.

What to water?

Irrigation with a hose causes fear - a strong jet can expose the bulbs, which means making them vulnerable. Soil erosion should not be allowed. A strong jet from a hose, even with a sprinkler, can damage crops: wash the seeds, which is also unacceptable. Onions grown on a feather, especially in small quantities, can be watered from an ordinary garden watering can. But if we are interested in a turnip, it is better to water it in the aisle. When a little onion grows in the country, the owner waters it manually, you can water it with a hose with very little pressure, first you need to make a groove between the rows and carefully pour water into it. On the large beds, with large volumes of onions, this will be difficult to do - it will take a very long time.

Although the onion has edible leaves (ground part) and bulb (underground part), it is grown mainly to produce bulbs (turnips). The yield and quality of onions largely depends on proper care during cultivation. During this period, onions need proper watering, loosening, weed control, diseases, pests and, possibly, in top dressing.

How to water onions.

Onions make high demands on soil moisture, especially during germination and bulb formation. Therefore, in dry weather it must be watered. It is good to do this before and after weeding. It is better to water the onion in the furrows made between its rows. Such watering promotes rapid maturation and better storage Luke. If for some reason you have to water the onion from above, then do it through the grid of the watering can so that the young onion is not exposed with a strong stream of water. If necessary, watering is combined with feeding onions. You can determine when to water the onion with your finger. If the soil at the level of the nail immersed in it has not dried out, then watering should be delayed. If the soil is dry, the onion should be watered. Water the onion so that the water penetrates to the depth of its roots. A month and a half before the expected harvest, usually from mid-June, onion watering is stopped.

How to care for onions.

Regular weeding, loosening and top dressing help to achieve good results. weeds can deprive you of the harvest by 10%, so they must be removed in a timely manner. Simultaneously with weeding, loosening of the soil is carried out, which is very important for the formation of bulbs. On loose soils, the bulbs are larger, better stored, and their number increases in multi-celled varieties. When loosening, it is not necessary to hill the bulbs. otherwise they will be stretched out.

If the soil under the onion was well seasoned when planting, top dressing bow may not be required. If at proper care the leaves of the onion become smaller, their yellowing and wilting of the tips are observed, which means that the onion suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, it should be fed mineral fertilizers, for example, Fertik's soluble fertilizer, or a solution of ammonium nitrate (10 g) and potassium salt (15 g per bucket of water) per square meter of planting. From organic fertilizers, the use of ash is allowed, it will replace potassium salt.

Diseases and pests of onions. How to fight?

Onion diseases and pests can reduce the yield, therefore, when growing, prevention and control measures should be observed. The most common cultural disease is peronosporosis, or false powdery mildew . This fungal disease especially often affects onions in cold and damp times. At first, the mycelium settles on the leaves in the form of light spots, which is why later the leaves become covered with a gray coating, turn yellow and fade. Later, the disease spreads to onion arrows, bulbs and is transmitted during subsequent crops and plantings. Therefore, when buying a sevka, it must be decontaminated, that is, kept for 8 hours at a temperature of + 40-42 ° C. When growing, to prevent damage to the leaves, preventive spraying of the leaves with a solution of phytosporin (10 g per 5 l of water) is carried out. When plants are damaged, they are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or 0.5% copper oxychloride. In July, such spraying is carried out to prevent peronosporosis with an interval of 2 weeks in dry weather, and 1 week in rainy weather. 10 days before harvesting, processing is stopped. It is impossible to cut greens for food after such treatments. The exception is preventive treatment with phytosporin.

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Neck (gray) rot affects the bulbs during their storage. The disease arises during the growing season, but it is not possible to identify it during harvesting. The manifestation of the disease is observed during storage. The bulb near the neck becomes soft, the juicy scales darken, a gray coating appears under the dry scales. The disease spreads to neighboring bulbs, especially when stored in damp and warm rooms. Prevention of the disease - growing well-ripened onions, which are weakly affected by the disease, as well as good preparation onions for storage (drying) and right conditions storage.

Of the pests, the main danger is onion fly . It is slightly smaller than an ordinary fly and lays its eggs near the bulb or on its dry scales. The resulting larvae feed on the bulb, causing the onion to turn yellow and dry out. For prevention, the soil around the onion is dusted with tobacco dust or sprinkled with salt 100 g per square meter. m. In rainy weather, the salt dissolves itself, in dry weather, the soil is watered with a solution. Affected plants are removed from the site and burned.