Rhododendron planting and care. Planting and caring for rhododendron in the open field

Rhododendron is a plant of the Heather family. It occurs as creeping shrubs and trees. This genus includes more than 1000 varieties. The name rhododendron is translated as rose tree or tree. So he was nicknamed for the beautiful, large flowers, similar to bouquets of roses that bloom all spring.

In its natural environment, the plant is found on the slopes of mountains, in the coastal zone of the seas, rivers, oceans. Branches with smooth bark or pubescent.

Groups

Flowers come in a variety of shapes, bell-shaped, tubular, funnel-shaped, terry. Large and small inflorescences in color can be white, purple, pink, yellow. Some species have a pleasant aroma.

Divided into groups:

• Deciduous - one of the favorite plants of gardeners, unpretentious to the climate and soil, calmly endure the winter. Blooms in spring and autumn.
• Semi-deciduous - these shrubs are not tall, they calmly endure the winter under a layer of snow. In winter, some of the leaves fall off, at the ends of the branches there is a deciduous slingshot, from which new leaves grow in the future. The bush produces many flowers.
• Evergreens are tall shrubs reaching a height of 2-5 m. In winter, dark, dense foliage remains on them. It blooms with large flowers of different colors. Plants grow well in places under tall trees, receiving diffused shade from them, in peat soil.

A detailed description, rules of planting and care will be discussed later in the article.

Appearance description

Inside the flower, seeds ripen in boxes.

The leaves are dense, oval in shape, located on the petioles.

The root system is located on the surface and consists of numerous fibrous roots. This feature makes it easy to transplant the plant.

The shrub is one of the first spring honey plants.

Care and cultivation

Location

For planting a plant in open ground, choose a place with diffused light, protected from the wind, retaining moisture for a long time.

Such a place can be found in the shade of taller trees and shrubs. Preferably, the neighborhood with those plants whose root system grows in depth is oak, pine, apple, pear.

Loosening the soil is not included in the care of rhododendrons. Since his root system consists of tangled, thin hairs growing superficially.

Better to mulch the soil! Weeds must be removed by hand.

The soil

The soil should be loose, well fertilized with organic matter, with a well acidic pH.

To acidify the soil, you can use a ready-made mixture for heather plants. Can be acidified with peat.

Using "Mycorrhiza" for heather plants, the root system will be nourished by symbiotic fungi that are part of it.

Then the plant will always have favorable growth, no matter what the pH of the soil is.

fertilizers

For active growth, the shrub requires additional nutrition. Top dressing begins to be applied from April to August. Apply in dosed portions, evenly.

The lack of minerals in a plant can be determined by some signs:

• The leaf tissue between the veins turns yellow - a lack of potassium.
• The leaf remains green, and the places near the veins turn yellow - lack of iron.

With weak flowering and pale leaves, ammonium sulfate is used. It is used in spring and summer.

In autumn, the soil is acidified with potassium sulfate, which will help the plants prepare for wintering.

For active growth of flower buds and longer flowering periods, granular superphosphate is poured onto moist soil.

In specialized stores you can buy ready-made mineral complexes for rhododendrons. They contain macro and microelements.

Watering

Rhododendron is a moisture-loving plant, but everything should be in moderation.

In order to prevent root rot, watering time is determined by fading leaves.

The shrub also likes surface spraying of foliage.

pruning

In the spring, cut off dry, frozen branches.

Pruning will give the appearance of new shoots, the removal of diseased branches, and will form the decorative effect of the bush.

After flowering, faded inflorescences are removed. They are carefully broken off by hand, simulating natural fall.

Artificially removing the inflorescence will help the shrub gain strength and next year it will give more abundant flowering.

Preparing for winter

Rhododendron is a hardy plant. But if the winter is snowless and frosty, it is better to cover the soil with dry foliage, peat, and needles.

Deciduous species, azaleas and Finnish varieties, Haaga and Helsinki endure the winter most easily.

Japanese rhododendrons need to be covered for the winter.

The whole bush is wrapped in a piece of film, well covered at the base of the bush in order to preserve the root neck.

Also used for wrapping material - agoroteksile. They wrap the bush 2-3 times and fix it tightly.

You can insulate the bushes with spruce branches, covering the bush at the base, this will create a natural protection, and the fallen snow will serve as a warm coat.

reproduction

Propagate rhododendron: seeds, layering, seeds.

1. seeds

In the prepared soil of peat and sand, seeds are sown, sprinkled with a light layer of sand.

Top covered with a transparent film or glass, creating the effect of a greenhouse.

As the soil dries, water and ventilate.

Shoots appear in about a month.

When the first two leaves appear, the plants are seated at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other, for the spacious formation of roots.

Young seedlings are kept for a year in a greenhouse at a cool temperature.

A year later, they are ready to be transplanted into the open.

Flowering occurs only at 5-8 years.

1. layering

Reproduction by layering, the most popular among gardeners.

Dig a shallow hole first. The lowest shoot is laid in a groove and sprinkled with earth with peat. The upper part of the branch is left outside and fixed to a deepened peg.

Observe moderate watering.

After rooting, they dig out and transplant to a permanent place.

1. cuttings

In autumn, cuttings are cut from semi-roughened shoots. 6-10 cm long.

The lower leaves are cut and placed in a solution with a root growth stimulator for a day.

Planted in a container with mixed peat and sand.

Cover with transparent film. Air and water regularly.

Deciduous species take root quickly, up to 2 months. Evergreen up to 4 months.

In winter, the boxes are left indoors at a temperature of +10°С., +15°С.

In the spring, they are transplanted to a permanent place along with a box.

Features of cultivation in the Urals and Siberia

To grow rhododendron in the cold regions of Russia, it is necessary to choose the right frost-resistant variety.

Suitable deciduous varieties:

Kamchatka, yellow, phukan, Schlippenbach.

Evergreen varieties:

Abraham Lincoln, Laika hybrids, Gabriel.

Finnish varieties:

Hague, Elvira, Spicy Lights.

If the soil is very clayey, it is necessary to add a layer of broken bricks to the bottom of the pit.

Bushes are planted at a distance of 1 m from each other. Deepen into a hole, the size of which exceeds the capacity of the plant by 2 times.

The root neck of the bush is left flush with the ground.

Frequent autumn precipitation causes massive growth of shoots, which die with the onset of cold weather.

By performing the procedure for spraying the bush with potassium monophosphate, you can avoid untimely growth of shoots and contribute to the laying of flower bouquets next spring.

After spraying, the entire dormant period, the shrub is no longer watered!

For the winter, the bushes are wrapped with a special film, frame shelter. From above they are tied with a rope, protecting from the ingress of cold wind.

Diseases and pests

Phytophthora	At the bottom, at the base of the stem, spots appear, the leaves turn gray, curl. The plant rots and dies.	Infected bushes are dug up and burned.
Exobasidium lingonberry	There is a curvature of the trunk. Hard growths form on the leaves. The buds stop tying.	Treated with antifungal drugs. The first time before the appearance of the kidneys. When the air temperature rises above 20°C, treat every 10 days.
powdery mildew	A white coating forms on the surface of leaf plates and stems.	For prevention, they are treated with Topaz 2 r. per month If infection has already occurred, the plant is burned.
gray mold (excess moisture)	Flower buds rot before they open. Flowers are deformed.	The plant must have enough space around for free airflow. When infected with a disease, they are treated with Topsin fungicide every 10 days.

Of the pests that are often attacked:

• Klopov;
• Spider mites;
• Slugs;
• Shchitovok;
• Weevils.

To destroy snails and slugs, pieces of plywood and rags are scattered on the plots, where they like to climb and collect by hand.

Ticks, bedbugs, weevils are destroyed by diazinon.

From scale insects and ticks, they are treated with karbafos.

Species and varieties

Consider varieties adapted for cultivation in the regions of Russia.

RhododendronHelsinki

Rosewood is native to Finland. Frost-resistant, evergreen variety. Tolerates frost down to -40°C.

Up to 18 flowers can be collected in inflorescences. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pale pink with red patches, the petals are wavy along the edges. Blooms in early summer.

Leaves decorative medium size 10-15 cm dark green.

This rose tree grows well in the shade of trees and buildings.

For reliable wintering, the bushes are well poured in hot weather. And for active flowering next year, after the end of flowering, all inflorescences with seeds are cut off.

It goes well with other shrubs that differ in height and color.

pink rhododendron

The homeland of growth is Canada. Adapted to frosts down to -30°С.

The inflorescence contains 9 flowers, which bloom immediately when the leaves appear, in April. The leaves are oval, covered with hairs.

These shrubs grow well in rocky soil.

Damp stagnation should be avoided.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum"

Tall plant, reaches a height of 5-6 m.

It has a large, up to 2 m dense, spherical crown.

The bark is dark gray.

The leaves are elongated, dark and glossy above, the lower part is light, matte with dark veins.

Flowering is collected in inflorescences up to 20 buds, bell-shaped, white, purple, lilac. Flowering lasts from May to June and has a striking beauty.

The plant is moisture-loving, in hot weather frequent watering is required.

This species is ideal for growing hedges, decorating fences, arbors.

golden rhododendron

Low growing, ornamental shrub. Abundantly grows in areas of Siberia, the Far East.

In height reaches 50-60 cm.

Oval leaflets 8-10 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. Blossoms are collected in inflorescences up to 10 flowers, golden-yellow hue.

Under conditions of artificial cultivation, this species does not take root well. It often gets sick and dies.

Rhododendron Adams

It grows on the rocky slopes of Buryatia. It is also called "Buryat tea", fragrant wild rosemary.

A low growing shrub with long leaves. Green leaves change color to dark red over time.

Shaggy shoots are covered with scales. Small light pink flowers are collected in inflorescences up to 15 buds. Bloom all summer.

This shrub is unique for its healing properties. For the manufacture of medicines use leaves and inflorescences.

Stimulant restorative drugs are used to boost immunity, against colds, as a sedative.

Brewed tea from petals and flowers improves brain function and memory.

• Style: heather
• Flowering period: April May June
• Height: 0.3-1.5m
• Colour: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
• perennial
• hibernates
• Shade-loving
• moisture-loving

It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their magnificent hats throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and the southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. It is not easy to find an approach to it, but the cultivation and care of rhododendrons eventually develops into a hobby for some lovers of rare plants - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, the rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in the southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, the Krasnodar Territory or the Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, such as Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, in the Urals or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent flowering.

Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance, the plant is very similar to a rose, although it does not belong to rosaceae, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in coastal marine areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of cultures is almost limitless. Flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to its luxurious color palette, garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following the general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, during the growing season convenient for you, excluding the time of flowering and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which lasts, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted before this period are already covered with a thick color by the May holidays - against the background of barely hatched foliage and fresh grassy greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right landing site, since the plant will feel uncomfortable in the bright sun, and in a completely darkened place it will not give lush flowering.

It is best to break a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

Not only the walls of the building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shadow barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

• dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
• the lower part is drained with a sand-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
• they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while the peat should be about 2 times more;
• lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earth seedling;
• lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and cover it with soil mixture up to the very root neck, which as a result should be on the same level with the soil surface;
• water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
• mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and chopped oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, thoroughly soak the roots with water before planting - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

An approximate scheme for planting a rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is another trick that contributes to a better development of the root system. At a flowering plant, cut off the most lush buds - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further care of rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to do the design of the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site.

The nuances of caring for flowers

The norms for proper care of flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and prune in time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, in no case do not use a chopper or garden knife, you can only work manually.

Irrigation mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even while choosing a landing site, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the irrigation and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, previously acidifying the water - for this, 12-20 hours before watering, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water. It is better not to use tap water, in extreme cases, it must be defended. The ideal option is rain collection. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy sheen and changed turgor, it's time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering shrub of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to be pruned. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until sap flow begins. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with a specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, lasting throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill requires pruning of frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second - next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly violent color, next year expect more modest results. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branching bushes with dense foliage and many buds are a great habitat for insects, half of which are able to destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are harvested by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the topsoil around it.

Along with pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and fertilizer selection

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. Superphosphate, potassium sulphate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulphate or calcium, ammonium are used to preserve the acidic medium important for the culture, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring top dressing is made up of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium sulfate or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

An ideal top dressing for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers such as hornmeal or cow dung. The rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer to 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to renew the topsoil. To do this, peat is mixed in equal proportions with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tablespoon each). As a dry powder, you can use "Agricola" for flowering garden plants. Remember that only carefully watered shrubs need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways of propagating rhododendron in garden conditions:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and exposed to a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

Seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm scheme. Seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Propagation by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take the shoots, half-woody, and cut several cuttings from them about 7-8 cm long.

Leaves are removed from the lower part, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in the boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient breeding option is pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and lay the process in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck in the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the whole bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular country varieties

In a coniferous garden, a 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will perfectly get along. It is characterized by abundant flowering of buds, reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will surely delight you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom normally

Rhododendron Adams is an eastern guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. In our country it is found infrequently, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties.

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

In the spring garden, it is difficult to find bushes that bloom more spectacularly than rhododendrons. While these are very popular and beloved plants, they are not the easiest to grow.

Find out how rhododendrons are planted and cared for in the open field, what are their requirements for soil, watering, and fertilizers.

Description of the plant, species and varieties

Rhododendrons are a genus of plants from the heather family (Ercicaceae). It includes several hundred species and thousands of varieties and hybrids, which can be divided into 2 groups:

• evergreen - with leathery leaves, called rhododendrons;
• deciduous - with soft, slightly pubescent leaves falling in winter, called azaleas.

Beautiful, large, multi-colored flowers of rhododendrons appear on stems from early spring, bloom until early summer and resemble magnificent bouquets of roses. Therefore, the plant got its name - Rhododendron (Rhododendron), where rhon is a rose, dendron is a tree. In Greek, the name of the plant means rosewood.

Rhododendron garden can be grown in almost any garden, choosing the size of the shrub to the landscape:

• impressive shrubs reaching a height of 4-5 meters;
• small shrubs, not exceeding 50 cm in height.

Due to the great diversity, rhododendrons are divided into several groups, the most popular of which is shrubby, classified as large flowering rhododendrons. Plants are characterized by large size, huge, numerous, colorful inflorescences. Flowers of these varieties can be found in many color combinations:

• white,
• shades of pink,
• red,
• purple,
• orange,
• yellow.

The following bushes deserve attention:

Russian name for rhododendron	Latin name	A photo
Yakushimansky	Rhododendron yakushimanum
Giant	R.maximum
Violet or Katevbinsky	R.catawbiense
Pontic	R. ponticum
large-leaved	R. macrophyllum
short-fruited	R. brachycarpum

When deciding to grow a "rose tree", it is worth remembering that close relatives also belong to this type:

1. azaleas;
2. Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron obtusum).

They are shorter, more compact, have smaller, softer, seasonal or semi-evergreen leaves, and are frost tolerant. Unlike rhododendrons, azaleas require a more sunny position.

Growing and caring for rhododendron

Landing place

The success of rhododendron cultivation in the garden largely depends on the choice of the correct position, which provides the plant with conditions close to natural.

Requirements regarding the site of the plant are quite high:

1. The evergreen foliage makes the bushes sensitive to low temperatures and physiological drought.
2. You need to choose a semi-shaded place, protected from the wind, with high humidity. You can achieve this by planting a rhododendron next to larger clusters of shrubs that provide a decorative backdrop.
3. Tall trees will also be great company. Since the roots of the shrub grow superficially in the plane of the topsoil, it is better to plant the rhododendron near trees with roots growing deep into the ground, such as oak.
4. Since the plant is naturally found in regions with high humidity, favorable conditions help create the surroundings of small ponds and streams.

Soil Requirements

Rhododendrons, like all heather plants, are demanding on the soil. It is necessary to provide soil with the following characteristics:

1. high content of organic substances;
2. acidic pH (between 4.5 and 5.5) - although varieties are available that are more tolerant of elevated soil pH or grafted onto rootstock less vulnerable to abnormal pH, they will grow better in any soil.

Unfortunately, in most gardens, the soil is not suitable for acidity, so before planting the bushes, it is necessary to properly prepare them.

To increase the acidity of the soil, you need to prepare the substrate before planting:

1. dig a hole 1-1.5 meters wide, 1 meter deep;
2. fill the pit with a mixture of acid peat, leaf soil and compost pine bark in proportions of 2: 1: 0.5.

If it is not possible to prepare your own substrate for planting rhododendrons, you can fill the hole with ready-made mixture for heather plants, available at every garden center. A bush is planted in this prepared substrate, watered heavily and the hole is filled with the rest of the soil.

Mycorrhiza for rhododendron

When planting a plant, it is worth noting that maintaining a sufficiently acidic soil can cause some difficulties. Therefore, it is worth using the phenomenon of mycorrhiza.

Mycorrhiza is a mutually beneficial coexistence of plants and specific symbiotic fungi in direct contact with the roots of the plant. Mycorrhiza in the garden can be introduced with special mycorrhizal additives in the substrate for heather plants.

In the case of acidophilic plants, including the rhododendron flower, mycorrhiza produces sensational results. It is enough to prepare suitable additives in the substrate for heather, rhododendron, magnolia or blueberry. The soil can be acidified in the traditional way by mixing with peat. But acidification of the soil, done with peat, is short-lived.

Meanwhile, thanks to the use of a mycorrhizal additive, the effect lasts for many years, and rhododendrons will be beautiful even with unfavorable soil pH.

Fertilizer

Healthy shrub development requires proper fertilization. They begin to fertilize in April, finish in mid-July. You can use multi-component mineral fertilizers or special balanced fertilizer complexes for rhododendrons. Since the plants do not tolerate too much salinity of the soil, they cannot be fertilized "in reserve". Top dressing should be even, in small doses. Before using fertilizer, the litter is removed from under the bushes, and after application, they are laid out again.

Cheap fertilizers

Of the cheapest fertilizers for rhododendrons, the following should be recommended:

1. ammonium sulfate - applied in the spring and summer, this is a nitrogen fertilizer that acidifies the soil;
2. potassium sulfate - suitable as an autumn fertilizer, it also acidifies the soil, the drug is rich in potassium, which facilitates the preparation of plants for winter.

These are the cheapest solutions, but not always optimal. Often such dressings are not enough and a special fertilizer is required for rhododendrons with trace elements.

Signs of missing elements

Rhododendrons need a certain amount of macro- and microelements for proper development, their lack quickly manifests itself in the form of various problems visible on plants:

• weak flowering;
• leaf browning;
• weak staining and discoloration of the leaves.

Signs of deficiency of certain elements

Therefore, for fertilizer it is worth choosing special formulations for rhododendrons, containing all the necessary macro- and microelements, selected in appropriate proportions.

If symptoms of nutrient deficiencies are observed on shrubs, soil pH should be measured. This can be done with any pH meter. Simple and inexpensive pH testers are available at garden stores.

Based on the measurement results, the following conclusions are drawn:

• If the soil pH is more than 6, it is necessary to acidify the soil, because if the pH is too high, the rhododendrons cannot take up some of the nutrients from the soil.
• If the pH is satisfactory, it is worth using an auxiliary fertilizer for rhododendrons, which, after dissolving in water, can be used for watering and foliar spraying. As a result, the fertilizer ingredients are transported very efficiently to the plant tissues, which quickly gives visible results and improves growth.

Weed removal

Plant care includes regular removal of weeds until they have intertwined the roots of the shrub, otherwise their removal will injure the bush. Tsapka need to choose the smallest, because the roots of the shrub are located high to the surface of the soil. It is allowed to use a thin hoe.

pruning

Rhododendron requires proper pruning:

Removing faded inflorescences

After flowering, faded inflorescences should be cut off. You need to gently break them off with your hand, trying not to damage the formation of new kidneys. If the inflorescence is not removed, it will slow down growth. Due to the removal of inflorescences, the shrub will not waste energy on laying seeds, giving energy to the development of new flower and leaf buds. Next year the bush will bloom more abundantly.

Important! Inflorescences do not need to be cut, it is necessary to break off, imitating natural fall.

winter care

Evergreen shrub easily tolerates frost. On sunny or windy days, the leaves evaporate a lot of water that the plant cannot take from the frozen soil. Therefore, bushes should be protected with spruce branches or by creating protective fences around large bushes made of non-woven materials or film.

Also close the base at the foot of the bush to protect the root collar from frost. The best protection from frost is snow. If the winter is snowless and cold, the soil around the shrub is covered with:

• leaves,
• bark,
• peat.

If the leaves curl during long periods of frost, the bushes take on an unhealthy look - this is a sign of a lack of water in the soil. In the next thaw, when the ground is thawed, you need to water the shrub abundantly. You can water preventively in late autumn, at the last moment before the onset of winter.

Leaving in the fall - how to protect rhododendrons for the winter?

Evergreens adorn gardens all year round, but you need to protect them for the winter, because unpleasant consequences can appear in the spring. It is important to know how to protect your rhododendrons for the winter in order to get lush green leaves and many beautiful flowers in the spring. If the winter is cold, last year's flower buds and growth buds may freeze and the bushes will not bloom.

Frost resistance of shrubs

The frost resistance of the shrub varies depending on the variety. The most frost-resistant varieties and varieties of rhododendron:

• Azores azalea (Rhododendron catawbiense);
• Finnish varieties - Haaga (Haaga) and Helsinki (Hellikki).

All other varieties need to be covered in winter in the first years of cultivation.

Deciduous rhododendrons are less sensitive to frost. Japanese rhododendrons (Rhododendron japonicum) need to be covered, they are sensitive to low temperatures.

The need to protect rhododendrons for the winter depends on the site conditions:

• shrubs winter better in shady, warm, sheltered places;
• shelter is necessary in sunny and windy places.

Hilling

Shrubs often dry out in winter. The first symptom is falling and curling main leaves. The reason for the phenomenon is the lack of available water on cold days. This condition is exacerbated by sunny weather, when plants lose water through evaporation and cannot replenish it, because the surface layers of the soil, together with the water contained in it, are frozen.

A photo. Curled leaves in winter mean the plant is not getting enough water.

To prevent drying, you need to protect the shrub from lack of water with abundant watering in late autumn, shortly before the onset of frost. At the foot of the bush create a mound of pine bark or peat. Pine bark, in addition to reducing the evaporation of water in the soil, also protects the root system of the rhododendron from freezing. The mound pile should be 20 cm high.

Protection with agrotextile

A popular, effective plant protection material is agrotextile, which allows water and air to pass through and protects shrubs from:

• low temperatures;
• cold wind.

It is necessary to wrap the bush 2-3 times and tie the cord to the base so that the material does not slip off during the winds, covering the plant from all sides.

Shelter branches

Another great way to protect rhododendrons for the winter is to cover them with coniferous branches. It is enough to cover the base of the bush with spruce branches. This protects the roots from low temperatures, and the snow that remains on the branches looks very natural.

Diseases

Caring for rhododendrons requires providing plants with proper development conditions. Wrong position, lack of proper care can lead to dangerous diseases. Observation of rose trees will allow for early detection of disease symptoms.

Diseases, pests and improper care become common reasons why the rhododendron does not bloom, the leaves turn yellow, brown.

Phytophthora

Signs of phytophthora damage:

• First, dark spots appear at the bottom of the stem - pathological changes occur under the bark layer, the tissue acquires a brownish-red color.
• The rot progresses rapidly, the leaves become gray, twisted, the plant dies.

The disease mainly affects the roots, so the gardener does not notice major changes. The plant ceases to collect a sufficient amount of mineral salts and water.

The disease is caused by fungi of the Phytophthora species, which develop in humid, warm conditions at temperatures above +20 degrees Celsius. There is no effective drug that will save rhododendron. The infected plant should be removed and burned; azaleas and rhododendrons should not be planted in its place for several years.

Exobasidium lingonberry

Plant deformation is caused by the fungus Exobasidium vaccinii.

Symptoms:

• hard growths appear on the leaves;
• the trunk is distorted;
• bud growth is strongly inhibited.

This rhododendron disease is favored by:

• temperatures above +10 degrees Celsius,
• wet air.

Control measures:

1. it is necessary to remove and burn the affected parts of the bush;
2. the plant is treated with a suitable natural or chemical antifungal drug:
   • in spring, before the appearance of buds, Biosept Active is sprayed (concentration 0.1%);
   • when the temperature rises above 18 ° C, the bushes are treated with Topsin M 500 SC (concentration 0.1%), the treatment is carried out twice after 7-10 days;
   • in amateur cultivation, you can use the convenient and easy-to-use finished product Baymat Ultra 0.015 AE.

gray mold

• Causes. The disease appears in conditions of high humidity, at a high temperature of +20 +30 degrees Celsius.
• Prevention. To avoid disease, provide space around the plants, free air circulation.
• Effects. The mold causes the death of flower buds and flower deformation.
• Control measures. To control the disease, it is necessary to spray an appropriate fungicide, such as Topsin 2-3 times every 7 days.

Physiological diseases

Deficiency or excess of certain minerals can lead to leaf discoloration:

• when there is a nitrogen deficiency, the plant develops poorly, the leaves fall off;
• with an excess of potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, the absorption of other nutrients from the soil is blocked, which affects the condition of the leaves.

If the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the bush is chlorosis. The causes of chlorosis are iron deficiency, or inappropriate acidity. It is necessary to maintain the acidic state of the soil.

Pests

During the growing season, pests attack the shrub, causing numerous damage - spots, holes in the leaves, discoloration, distortion of shoots and leaves. We will tell you how to deal with pests of rhododendrons, how to prevent their occurrence.

Pests that make holes in the leaves

Skosar single

Holes on the edges of the leaves, yellowing, drying of the bushes are signs of the appearance of Skosar single. Black adults, 8-11 mm long, damage rhododendron leaves in May-June. Beetles feed at night, hiding in the ground during the day. The females lay their eggs in the ground, which hatch into larvae that damage the roots. Beaver attacks other garden plants with fleshy leaves, like a rhododendron.

Control measures: after removing the damaged leaves, the plants are sprayed late in the evening with Fastac 100 EC insecticide (at a concentration of 0.02%). It is important to deal with the beetles before they lay their eggs, the control of the larvae is difficult, often ineffective.

pear bug

Signs of an attack by a pear bug (Stephanitis oberti):

• yellow, mosaic spots on the upper side of the leaves;
• dark wastes resembling resin appear under the leaves;
• pest eggs overwinter on the underside of the leaves; yellowish-brown wingless larvae appear at the end.

Adults appear in July.

Bedbug-infected rhododendrons are sprayed with drugs of your choice:

• Decis 2.5 EC (concentration 0.05%);
• Sumi-alpha 050 EC (concentration 0.04%).

The treatment of the plant from the bug must be repeated.

Leaf yellowing pests

Some pests cause yellowing of the leaves, which can easily be mistaken for disease symptoms.

whitefly

Sticky, yellowing rhododendron leaves may indicate that the plants have been attacked by a whitefly. Around the shrubs in May-June, small white butterflies are visible - insects 1.2 mm long, bright yellow, with white wings. The females lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves, then greenish-yellow larvae hatch, producing large amounts of nectar on which fungi grow, forming a black coating on the leaves.

Control measures. After detection of the whitefly in the period from June to July (adults feed the larvae), the infected plants are treated 2 times with an interval of 14 days with Provado Plus AE insecticide.

Aphid

In spring, aphids form large colonies on the youngest, growing leaves. The insect sucks out plant juices, strongly inhibiting the growth of young shoots, distorting the leaves, polluting them with honeydew and numerous white slits.

Prevention measures: preventively, you can treat the plant with a solution of potassium soap with the aroma of garlic.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

Rhododendrons and azaleas growing in the garden can be propagated by layering. This is a relatively simple method, but requires patience. In spring or August, you need to dig a groove 15-20 cm deep near the bush, bend one of the branches into the groove and sprinkle it with earth. You can slightly damage the bark on the side of the shoot that will be underground. Layers usually take root after 2 years.

Scheme. plant propagation by layering

Reproduction by cuttings

Propagation of rhododendron from annual cuttings consists in obtaining new plants from leafy shoots and planting them in a mixture of peat and sand. The seedling is prepared in the second half of August or early September in a greenhouse at a temperature of 11 degrees Celsius. Plants will take root in 2-4 months.

How to plant a rhododendron?

Landing dates

The best time to plant rhododendrons is in the spring, although container-bought shrubs can be planted during the growing season.

Wet or dry place?

If the soil is light, permeable, there may be a shortage of water, you need to regularly water the bushes with soft water, preferably rain. It's a great idea to cover the ground around the bush with a layer of mulch. Ideal pine bark, acidifying the soil. Thanks to mulching, the soil dries out more slowly in summer and better tolerates cold in winter.

More dangerous than the lack of water, its excess occurring on heavy, impenetrable soils. Stagnant water leads to suffocation of the development of the roots of the plant. In this situation, it is worth taking a number of measures:

1. plant shrubs on a gentle slope;
2. make drainage;
3. prepare a discount in the form of an embankment surrounded by tree trunks or stones.

Where to plant rhododendrons?

Well cared for and grown in the right conditions, rhododendrons make an unusual, colorful sight in the garden every spring. Shrubs can be planted in different ways:

1. individually;
2. make decorative groups with other plants;
3. create unformed hedges.

Considering that rhododendron does not like pruning, at the beginning of cultivation, as much space should be allocated to the bushes as the variety requires, so that neighboring plants do not grow too much, do not shade each other.

Against the background of high varieties, it is worth planning to plant low plants, because over time the lower parts of the shrubs can become bare. This role is perfect for:

• heather plants;
• larches;
• podbel ordinary;
• gaulteria.

Rhododendrons can be combined with larger heather plants, such as broadleaf kalmia, pieris.

Landing - step by step

Planting a rhododendron requires shallow roots, too deep planting deprives the plant of nutrient assimilation. The root system of the shrub requires protection in winter with a layer of leaves, peat, and soil. If the winter is dry, the gardener's calendar should include watering the rhododendron.

Planting on different soils

Clay soil is very fertile and rich in ingredients needed for rhododendrons. However, if the root is planted deep into such soil, the plant will weaken. The problem is the poor permeability of clay soils to air and water. Rhododendron roots need fresh air, they cannot stand in water.

When placing a rhododendron on heavy soils, it is important to plant it correctly. When planting in heavy soils, a bush should be placed so that excess moisture can quickly drain. The problem does not occur on sandy soils.

To improve the drainage of the root system of a rhododendron seedling, it is not planted directly in clay, but in a small cavity. Below are 2 easy ways to plant a rhododendron.

The proposed landing methods can be used in other cases:

• on alkaline soils;
• on soils with very low acidity (if the pH is above 6.0);
• under trees with aggressive roots.

After planting, rhododendrons need watering and observation.

How to transplant a rhododendron?

Sometimes plants grow densely, or other reasons arise and a rhododendron transplant is necessary.

The shrub can be transplanted at any time, except for frost. Plant transplantation can be carried out even during the flowering period, when the leaves are in active growth. Care must be taken, during the growing season the shrub is sensitive to any errors during transplantation.

Rhododendrons are best transplanted in early spring or autumn when there is no active leaf growth. Autumn is considered the best time.

The plant is large, from 70 cm to 2 meters in size it is more difficult to transplant. However, rhododendrons are easy to transplant because they have compact, shallow roots. A two-meter rhododendron can have a root diameter of 100 cm.

Stages of work

Attention! In a new place, we plant a bush 2-3 cm higher than in the old one. No way deeper!

Rhododendron flower is an ornamental shrub that can become a real decoration of the garden. The flower has a somewhat finicky character, so before planting it, you need to find out the growing conditions, care features, and other nuances. In the article, we will consider these important points: we will find out how to plant and how to care for a rhododendron.

Today, scientists know about a thousand different species and varietal varieties of rhododendrons, including hybrid ones. A shrub also grows in nature: it is more common in the mountainous regions of Asia, the Himalayas, there is in the Caucasus, as well as in Australia, Africa and North America. In Europe, there are two types of radedorm under natural conditions - both in Germany. This shrub is deciduous, there are also evergreen varieties. The family to which the plant belongs is heather.

External characteristic

The branches and shoots of the plant, depending on the species and variety, have either an absolutely smooth bark or with slight pubescence. The foliage is leathery in texture, dark green in color and ovoid in shape. Pubescence is noticeable, especially on young leaves.

Buds in the form of bells, funnels, are often simple. Hybrid varieties can also be terry. The color depends on the variety of rhododendron: more often it is pink, white, purple, lilac. Today, there are artificially bred varieties with orange and yellow petals - this is not typical of natural species.

Application

The use of rhododendrons in the garden landscape is very wide: due to the beauty and versatility, the shrub is suitable for designing in any style. Rhododendron looks great both as a single plant and in composition. Against the background of coniferous plants, it looks especially advantageous, and also in combination with fern and juniper.

Undersized varieties are used to decorate alpine slides, rocky gardens. If you have in mind just such a landscape, plant a garden rhododendron in combination with heather and gentians.

Tall specimens are suitable for creating decorative hedges. Such a fence can border both the site itself along the perimeter, and inside its paths and separate zones.

Species, varieties

Let's get acquainted with the most popular varieties of rhododendron in ornamental gardening.

Dahurian

It is an evergreen shrub reaching 2-4 meters in height. The plant branches strongly, due to which, in adulthood, it has a very spreading crown. The trunk has a gray color of a dark or light shade, young shoots are rusty-brown.

The foliage is small, but multiple, smooth on one side and scaly on the other. Flowering occurs even before full foliage is an interesting feature of this rhododendron. The buds have the shape of a regular funnel, about 4 centimeters in size and a purple-pinkish tint (see photo). The buds do not grow separately, but form small inflorescences, which last for three weeks after full bloom. Under favorable conditions, it blooms again in autumn.

Caucasian

This plant is found in natural conditions exclusively in the mountains of the Caucasus. Shrub of small size - about one and a half meters from the strength, evergreen. Its foliage is dense, shiny, dark in color on the front side and lighter on the other, pubescence is orange. The shoots are strongly curved, branched, sometimes creeping, their color is dark brown.

It blooms in early summer, delighting the eye with abundant bell inflorescences, reaching a diameter of 5 cm. The color of the petals is delicate: yellowish, white, cream, light pink.

Yakushimansky

Evergreen rhododendron, reaching one and a half meters in height. A very decorative member of the family. The plant has dense foliage, consisting of large leaves of a beautiful elongated shape.

The buds are large, pink. Interestingly, the initially bright pink shade of the petals gradually turns pale and becomes almost completely white by the end of flowering. The flowering period begins in late May-early June and lasts about a month.

Note that on the basis of this variety, breeders have bred many hybrid varieties that have an unusual color of the petals and a high level of decorativeness. Including there are varieties with corrugated petals, contrasting borders, throat. There are a lot of hybrid varieties today, we will list the most popular of them.

Blue Peter

The shrub reaches 1.5 meters, has a spreading crown, unusual lavender-blue flowers. The edges of the petals are corrugated, which makes the plant even more decorative.

jacksons

Hybrid rhododendron, bred in England. Bush two meters high with a spreading three-meter crown. There is also an undersized variety of the same name with a height of only 80 cm - suitable for pot growing. The buds are initially pink, then change color to white with a yellow spot.

Growing conditions

Let's find out where on the site it is best to plant a capricious rhododendron and what external conditions will be most favorable for it.

Location and lighting

The plant needs good lighting, but it cannot stand direct sunlight: it gets burned, burns, fades. Too dense a shade for a shrub is not suitable either, because in this case its development will slow down, growth will stop, flowering will either become weak, or will not start at all.

An excellent choice would be planting near a pine tree. The lush, but sparse crown of this plant will protect the delicate shrub from direct sun, and will create the necessary light shading.

Temperature and Humidity

Rhododendron needs a microclimate that is quite warm, but not sultry. The plant does not tolerate frost well, therefore, in our climate, it is covered for the winter.

The shrub needs enough moisture in the air. It is recommended to provide not far from any body of water - a stream, a decorative pond, a pool. Such a neighborhood will make life easier for the gardener himself, since in summer the ornamental shrub often needs to be sprayed.

The plant does not tolerate drafts: plant it in a place protected from the wind

Priming

Rhododendron should be planted in loose soil with excellent permeable properties. The reaction of the substrate must be acidic. It is rare that natural soil meets the requirements, so usually the gardener has to prepare the soil for planting rhododendron.

The soil mixture is composed of the following components:

• turf soil;
• coniferous sawdust (for acidification);
• coarse sand;
• peat, manure or compost.

Components that alkalize the substrate are not added to the soil, even if they are very useful, like wood ash. Mineral supplements should not contain calcium and chlorine.

Landing features

We will find out when and how the rhododendron is planted in open ground.

Time

You can plant a plant in the garden both in spring and autumn. The choice of a specific time depends on the climate: if the region is warm, it is better to plant in autumn, in a cool area it is preferable to choose spring.

If spring is chosen, planting is carried out only when the ground has completely thawed: this is usually the end of April-May. In autumn, it is better to plant in September-October so that the plant can take root before the cold weather.

Training

The landing pit is prepared in advance: the necessary components listed above are mixed and laid in a dug hole. The hole itself should be approximately twice the volume of the roots of the plant.

Process

1. The seedling is placed in a hole filled with prepared soil by about a third.
2. The soil around the roots is pressed tightly to eliminate any risk of air voids.
3. The seedling is sprinkled with soil from all sides, compacting in the course of work.
4. After planting, the plant is watered, the root circle is mulched with peat chips for better moisture retention.

Reproduction features

Rhododendron can be propagated in several ways:

• seeds;
• vaccination;
• layering;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

seeds

Although seed propagation is a long and complicated process, it makes it possible to obtain a plant with new varietal characteristics, including improved ones. Seeds are planted on seedlings in winter, pre-soaked. By the summer, seedlings will be ready for planting in greenhouses or in the garden. Such a rhododendron blooms in 3-4 years.

Vegetative propagation will bring much faster results, and this option is also simpler.

cuttings

Probably the most common variant of vegetative propagation. The procedure for cutting planting material is carried out at the very beginning of summer. A suitable cutting should be approximately 15 cm long and must have dormant buds.

The lower leaves are removed from him, then the shoot is placed in a solution of the root stimulator. Rooting is usually done immediately in the soil (peat + coniferous substrate + sand equally). After 2-3 months, when kept in a bright room and under a glass jar, roots grow. Landing on a permanent place is made next spring.

layering

This method gives good results, but requires skill and experience. The procedure is:

1. In the spring, next to an adult rhododendron bush, they dig a hole 15 cm deep.
2. They take a young shoot, and without separating it from the mother bush, drop it into a hole. So that the shoot does not jump out, it is fixed with wire. Top layering should be sprinkled with soil.
3. By the autumn of this year, the layering will already take root. The following spring, it is separated from the mother plant and planted in its place.

By dividing the bush

This option allows you to immediately get full-fledged plants, but can only be applied to bushes that have grown strongly, are already old enough. Young dendrons do not divide.

In order to carry out this method of reproduction, the bush is dug up, divided into two or three parts along with the roots. Each part is immediately rooted in a separate hole. As a rule, such a rhododendron takes root well and blooms safely the next year.

How to care

We will find out what kind of care a rhododendron growing in the garden needs.

Watering

It is imperative to moisten the soil in the garden with rhododendron. The water should be slightly acidic, soft. It is better to water less often, but wetting the soil abundantly, than to carry out a lot of useless watering. In summer, in addition to watering, you also need a shrub and spray.

Lack of moisture is unacceptable: the rhododendron will immediately react to this outrageous fact by yellowing and falling leaves.

top dressing

Fertilizers must be applied: experienced gardeners carry out frequent application in small portions. Before use, mineral dressings must be diluted so that the solution is weak.

If there is not enough nutrition for the rhododendron, the plant will immediately signal this by a partial loss of its beauty, dropping leaves, stunting, and cessation of flowering. The shrub needs intensive feeding until about the end of August, after which the introduction of additional nutrition can be smoothly turned off until the next growing season.

Mineral additives are usually used: superphosphate, complex fertilizers. From organic matter, rhododendron is mainly suitable for manure, which is previously “brought to condition” by insisting in water.

Loosening, mulching

Since the roots of the plant are very delicate, thin and sensitive, the loosening procedure is excluded from the care measures. There is a high risk of damage to the roots, after which the plant will recover with great difficulty. However, care should include weeding: remove weeds that have grown near the rhododendron.

In order to retain moisture in the soil after irrigation for a long time, it is recommended to cover the soil from above with a mulch layer. As a mulch, choose materials that acidify the soil: coniferous sawdust, bark.

pruning

The shrub is prone to growth and strong branching. Pruning, therefore, is necessary if you want to give a neat shape to the rhododendron. The procedure is carried out in the spring, large places of cuts after it are smeared with garden pitch or putty. Try to prune before sap flow, otherwise the rhododendron will take longer to recover.

Important: do not be too zealous when pruning, as these plants are genetically programmed to create a crown of the correct rounded shape.

After flowering

In autumn, after the end of the decorative period, it is necessary to continue to water the plant, but less abundantly. With each procedure, 10-12 liters of water are consumed per bush, no more. If it rains a lot in autumn, you can not water at all. In November, start warming procedures.

Wintering

Since rhododendron is a tender plant, it may not survive frosty winters in our area without shelter. Be sure to first insulate the roots of the plant: for this, a mulch layer of peat or foliage is used at least 15 cm thick.

After warming the roots above the bushes, wire arcs or a frame are constructed, on which a non-woven covering material is thrown. When the air temperature drops below -10 degrees, you need to throw a film on top of the material and fix it. If weather conditions allow, it is advisable to throw more snow on top. In the spring, the shelter is gradually dismantled - layer by layer.

Diseases and pests

If you follow the rules of agricultural technology, there will be no special problems when growing rhododendron. Most often, a plant gets sick or is affected by pests precisely because of the failure to follow the recommended rules for maintenance and care: waterlogging, overdrying, growing in alkaline soil, under direct sun.

More often than other diseases, rhododendron is affected by the following:

• chlorosis;
• leaf rust;
• spotting.

It is better to prevent these problems than to fight them selflessly later. If the rhododendron is already sick, carefully remove all affected parts, and spray the shrub with a suitable fungicide.

In addition to the diseases listed above, rhododendron can also be affected by fungal and putrefactive diseases: gray rot, late blight, fusarium, etc. A fungus usually appears due to waterlogging.

As for harmful insects, harmless-looking snails and slugs more often threaten the shrub. These pests devour young foliage and buds, leading to the loss of most of the decorative effect. Visible pests are harvested by hand, invisible pests are disposed of with the help of insecticides.

So, we met with a wonderful garden shrub - rhododendron. This beautiful ornamental plant will become a real decoration of the site, and if you follow the simple rules of agricultural technology, growing it will not be difficult.

Rhododendron flowers

Rhododendron belongs to the Heather family. External data may differ depending on the variety and type. Common features are large flowers collected in inflorescences or brushes. Rare specimens have small single flowers.

Leaves can differ not only in size, but also in shape, which is presented in a wide variety of variations. Flowers are bisexual. Inflorescences are in the form of brushes or umbrellas. The color has a very rich range. After flowering is completed, fruits are formed: five folded boxes in which the seeds are located.

In some species, a rhododendron flower (there is a photo in this article) can reach a diameter of twenty centimeters. Thanks to this amazing quality, each inflorescence looks like a separate bouquet and, after cutting, can retain its magnificent appearance for a long time.

The height of the rhododendron bush varies depending on the species from ten centimeters to ten meters. Their root system is very compact and close to the surface, so young plants develop rather slowly.

The plant looks great in landscape design

Where is the rhododendron found?

What is a rhododendron is now clear, but where does it grow? The natural habitat for rhododendrons are humid highlands, as well as forests and swampy areas. The plant is most widespread in the northern hemisphere, namely:

• in Greenland;
• in Alaska;
• on the island of Java;
• in China;
• in Japan;
• in the Alps;
• in the Himalayas.

In the southern part, rhododendrons are also found, but the places of their natural growth are:

• New Guinea;
• Australia.

In our country, the most favorable climatic conditions for this plant are in the Far East, as well as in the highlands of the Caucasus.

Rhododendron in the highlands

Chemical composition

The chemical composition of rhododendron is very interesting. It contains a huge amount of tannins. In addition, the plant is an excellent honey plant, some species have healing properties. However, with all these positive qualities, many rhododendrons are poisonous. They contain neurotoxins that can first excite the nervous system, and then gradually begin to depress it.

Rhododendron contains a lot of useful components:

• ericoline;
• manganese;
• aluminum;
• essential oil;
• hydroquinone;
• copper;
• barium;
• flavonoids;
• silver.

In no case should you self-medicate and take rhododendron (as well as preparations made on its basis) without the recommendation and supervision of a qualified doctor. Otherwise, even a lethal outcome is not excluded.

Medicines with rhododendron should be used only as directed by a doctor.

Useful and harmful properties of rhododendron

Rhododendron has long been known as a healing plant that allows you to get rid of many ailments. It has long been used to relieve symptoms and heal:

• cardio - vascular insufficiency;
• hypertension;
• rheumatism;
• epilepsy;
• gout;
• puffiness.

With colitis, this plant is simply irreplaceable. Also in the old days, infertility was treated with it. But as soon as pregnancy occurred, preparations based on rhododendron were immediately stopped using. In the treatment of women's diseases, he also has no equal. Our ancestors also treated in this way:

• erosion;
• colpitis;
• vaginitis;

It is strictly forbidden to use rhododendron for the treatment of children. Adults need to follow the dosage very precisely. The use of drugs in the presence of allergic reactions is unacceptable.

Rhododendron is an ancient medicine for women's diseases

The use of rhododendron in various fields

Rhododendron has found useful application not only in medicine, but also in industry. Many varieties have resinous wood, which makes them attractive to craftsmen in the manufacture of carpentry or turning crafts.

The introduction of the petals of this plant into the finished wine completely stops the fermentation processes. Leaves are used for tanning leather, which acquires light tones.

The essential oils contained in this amazing plant are successfully used by perfumers and cosmetologists. But if you plant a yellow rhododendron in your garden, then flies, mosquitoes and other insects will not fly in its vicinity. The fact is that in its leaves there are substances that can paralyze small insects.

Rhododendron yellow

Varieties of rhododendrons

Rhododendrons have many species and varieties that can be radically different from each other or, on the contrary, have much in common. However, some of them deserve our attention more than others and are loved by domestic flower growers.

Dahurian rhododendron

This variety is an evergreen, very branched shrub with a height of two to four meters. The bark has a gray color of a dark or light shade. The leaves are oval, slightly bent, small. Depending on the season, they can change color from dark green to brown. In winter, some of the leaves fall off.

The color of the flowers is pinkish-purple. In diameter, they reach four centimeters and gather in inflorescences. Flower stalks stay on shoots for about three weeks. It often re-blooms in autumn. This variety is characterized by very slow growth.

Dahurian rhododendron

Japanese rhododendron

This variety is represented by a deciduous shrub of a spreading type up to two meters high. The bush itself is very bright, the leaves are slightly lowered. Depending on the season, they change color from dark green to yellow or even crimson.

Flowers in diameter can reach eight centimeters. Color can vary in tone and appear as red, yellow or orange. In addition, hybrids may come across, the color range of which is very rich. This variety has excellent winter hardiness. It blooms in May, and the duration of flowering lasts for several weeks.

Japanese rhododendron

Caucasian rhododendron

The Caucasian rhododendron, whose medicinal properties and contraindications were known to our distant ancestors, is found in the wild only in the highlands of the Caucasus and is endemic. The height of the bush does not exceed half a meter, the plant is evergreen. Flowering occurs at the beginning of summer. One flower in diameter up to five centimeters. They are collected in inflorescences containing from 5 to 10 bells of white, pink, cream or yellowish hue. Additional decoration are reddish or greenish blotches.

Caucasian rhododendron

Growing rhododendron

Rhododendron is a rather capricious plant, the cultivation of which has its own characteristics and nuances. I must say that the effort expended is worth it to grow such magnificence in oneself.

Rhododendron: planting and care

Proper development and abundant flowering primarily depend on the correct choice of a rhododendron planting site. The site should be well lit, but direct sunlight must be excluded.

IMPORTANT!

If you plant a bush in the shade, then flowering may not occur at all, and the already slow growth and development of rhododendron will slow down even more.

It will be just great if there is some kind of reservoir near the chosen landing site. Otherwise, you will have to spray until the very beginning of flowering.

An excellent neighbor for rhododendron is pine. She shelters him from direct sunlight, and her root system in no way interferes with the growth and development of the bush. But undesirable neighbors are: linden, alder, willow, maple and birch.

Rhododendron seedling

Rhododendrons: planting and care in the open field

It is quite difficult to grow rhododendrons. Planting and caring for these plants in the open field requires a lot of effort and patience. To plant a shrub, the first step is to dig a hole about half a meter deep. The width will depend on the size of the root system of the seedling. Drainage must be laid at the bottom, since the roots are highly sensitive to excess moisture. They quickly rot, which leads to the death of the plant.

The soil should be chosen acidic, loose, with good breathability. In no case should wood ash or other components that have an alkaline reaction be added to the soil. Mineral fertilizers are selected without the content of chlorine and calcium in them.

Before planting, the soil seedling is abundantly moistened with a solution of a growth stimulator. These actions are carried out at least 10 hours before disembarkation. You can plant rhododendrons from spring to late autumn.

Young rhododendron in the open field

Planting rhododendrons in the suburbs and caring for them

When planting, do not deepen the root neck too much. The final step is mulching. As a mulch, pine bark or needles are best suited. It is not worth loosening the soil in the future, since the roots of the shrub located close to the surface can be damaged.

You can grow rhododendrons in the suburbs. Planting and caring for them will not differ in any way from the one described above.

With proper care, the plant will delight with abundant flowering.

How to cover a rhododendron for the winter

Winter frosts and cold can kill the rhododendron. Leaving in the fall and preparing for the winter of this shrub is a very crucial moment. First of all, the roots are insulated. Peat or dry fallen leaves, which are laid in a layer of 15 centimeters, can serve as a protective layer.

What is the best way to cover a rhododendron for the winter? Arcs are installed above the shrub for the winter. Subsequently, covering material is stretched over them. As soon as the temperature drops significantly and reaches minus 10 degrees, a layer of a thick film spreads over this, and then it is fixed from above with more arcs. If possible, all this is covered with a layer of snow. Shelter of rhododendron for the winter in the Moscow region is carried out according to the same scheme, but taking into account the humidity of the climate and the variability of weather conditions. At any time, you need to be able to check the condition of the bush.

As a rule, winter shelters are made by all flower growers who grow rhododendrons on their site. Frost-resistant varieties (photos are presented in this article), of course, exist, but even they cannot withstand the harsh conditions of certain regions.

The process of sheltering a bush

reproduction

Rhododendron can reproduce in several ways:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• seeds;
• division of the bush.

The seed method is practically not used, because it takes a very long time and requires a lot of labor and patience. Cuttings are carried out in early summer. It is necessary to cut the required number of cuttings, remove the lower leaves from them and leave them in a container with a solution of a root growth stimulator for a day. After that, the branches are planted in the prepared substrate and covered with glass jars. Place seedlings in a bright room with a temperature of at least 25 degrees. Three months later, young plants form a root system, and by spring they will be ready for planting in open ground.

sprigs of rhododendron

Disease and pest control

Rhododendron, with proper care, is little exposed to diseases. But in case of violation of the recommended growth conditions, the plant may develop rust, spotting, as well as chlorosis. In this case, the affected parts of the shrub are removed, and it is treated with a fungicide solution.

Garden snails, slugs, which often annoy the rhododendron, must be regularly collected and destroyed. But when pests such as spider mites, weevil or scale insects appear, insecticide treatment will be required.

An example of rhododendron disease

Pruning and feeding

When watering rhododendron with ordinary water, it is recommended to acidify it. They do this so that over time the shrub does not lose its decorative effect. Citric acid or table vinegar is used as an acidifier.

Shrub dressing is carried out extremely rarely. Complex fertilizer is applied in early spring, and then after flowering is completed. Also in the spring, you can add rotted manure to the top layer of soil.

Pruning scheme for a rhododendron bush

To maintain decorativeness and form a dense beautiful crown in the fall, the rhododendron is pruned. Extra shoots are removed altogether, and the remaining length is reduced by a third. This technique contributes to lush flowering in the next season. But in the spring pruning is highly undesirable.