How to transplant a homemade chrysanthemum into a pot. Indoor chrysanthemum: home care

Chrysanthemum - amazing beauty a flower that can become an ornament both at home and in the garden. Many gardeners prefer winter time plant chrysanthemums in pots on windowsills. The popularity of the flower is explained and appearance, and unpretentiousness in breeding.

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size. Compactness is achieved artificially, using special preparations that inhibit plant growth. This selection method allows you to achieve diversity in the varieties of indoor chrysanthemums.

However, when purchasing a chrysanthemum for a pot in a store inattentively, the buyer runs the risk of buying either an incorrectly bred plant variety, or an ordinary plant, which will then grow to giant size. When buying, you need to pay attention to the following important characteristics of the plant:

• Leaves and stems should be well developed, in proportion;
• There should be no insects on the chrysanthemum;
• The whole plant should be dense and strong.

After the acquisition, at home, it is best to arrange a two-day quarantine for the plant, which will protect existing plants and allow the chrysanthemum to get used to the new conditions.

The ideal conditions for keeping home chrysanthemums are as follows:

• The pot should be on the windowsill, on the east or west side. On the south side the chrysanthemum will be too hot, flowering is unlikely in the north. In the warm season, conditions on a ventilated balcony will be good for chrysanthemums.
• Chrysanthemums feel best in autumn weather, when daylight hours last only 8 hours. Knowing this feature of the plant, you can provoke flowering artificially. A reduction in daylight hours for a chrysanthemum can be achieved by covering it for the rest of the time with a cap made of plastic or cardboard that does not let light through.
• After the end of the flowering period, the chrysanthemum must be cut and kept in a cool place where the temperature will be 3-5 degrees.

Planting chrysanthemums in a pot

Planting chrysanthemums is traditional, as for other indoor flowers. The flower is unpretentious, so ordinary soil from the garden, softened by the addition of peat and humus, is suitable. The only one important point when planting a plant - the soil should not be acidic.

Chrysanthemum should also be transplanted according to standard scheme: annually for young plant and once every 2 years for an adult.

How to water a chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, but you can’t overdo it here. The soil in the pot should always be moist, but not soggy. The ideal watering regimen is twice a day in such an amount that the leaves of the flower are dry by the next morning. In other periods, you can use a spray gun, regularly spraying the leaves of the flower. Chrysanthemums are very fond of such care.

Chrysanthemum should be pruned after flowering. During this period, it is necessary to remove all regrown stems, without affecting the young shoots. AT spring time pruning before transplanting is also recommended. The rest of the time, to lengthen the flowering period, you just need to remove the yellowed leaves of the plant.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum can be propagated in several ways, but the most effective is with the active growth of shoots from the plant. During such periods, 1 chrysanthemum bush can bring up to 6 shoots suitable for transplanting and creating new flowers. Shoots are planted in separate pots, and diligently watered - with proper care, such a plant will bloom in the first year of life.

A slightly longer way is to cut chrysanthemum. Several cuttings, 10 cm long, are separated from the plant and treated with a root solution, or similar means. The cuttings are inserted into the soil to a depth of up to 2 cm and create a semblance of a greenhouse with the help of a film. After seedlings, regular airing will be necessary.

1. Spider mite. When cobwebs are found on the leaves, the entire surface of the plant is treated with a soapy solution, after which it is washed under warm water in the shower.
2. powdery mildew. Fungus in the form of a gray coating on the leaves of the plant. Eradicate with a fungicide and quarantine the plant in a dry area.
3. Gray rot. Looks like fluff gray color on sheets. You can remove it by spraying the leaves with foundationazole.
4. Septoria. It looks like a brown spot on a leaf of a plant. The plant needs to be watered less and treated with foundation.

Possible problems:

Chrysanthemums in a pot withered

Like other plants, chrysanthemums wither from improper care or disease. Perhaps it was not moistened enough, or vice versa, it got damp and began to rot. It is necessary to change the conditions for keeping chrysanthemums.

Why does not bloom chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemums bloom only in autumn. Flowering problems can occur for the same reasons as wilting. It is necessary to revise the care of the flower based on the basic recommendations.

Dried chrysanthemum in a pot

If you do not remove the drying leaves and flowers from the chrysanthemum during the flowering period, the entire plant may dry out.

Video on the care of chrysanthemum in a pot at home

In addition to our article, watch this video instruction, which clearly shows how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home.

Two types of chrysanthemum are grown in pots - Chinese and shrub. Unlike garden view care for chrysanthemums in pots is more complicated.

The main and most important rule of cultivation is that the flower must be placed in a cool room with fresh air. Chrysanthemum does not like direct sunlight and grows well only at an air temperature of no higher than 18 degrees. Most optimum temperature content - 10-15 degrees. The flower does not tolerate heat very well, so if your indoor chrysanthemum has dropped its leaves and stopped blooming, it needs to be removed to a cool room.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care and growing conditions

To get a lushly blooming chrysanthemum, you need to create certain conditions for it.

Many flower growers consider this plant unpretentious and, nevertheless, you will have to follow some rules for caring for chrysanthemum at home:

• Lighting. A pot of chrysanthemum should not be placed in direct sunlight. The best place for it would be a well-lit window sill, and in hot weather the flowerpot is shaded.
• Air humidity. The plant does not require regular spraying from a spray bottle, but this must be done periodically. Such a light shower for a flower is arranged in the morning or in the evening. There should be no dust on the sheets of chrysanthemum.
• Watering. Abundant watering is essential for chrysanthemum, but the soil should not be damp. During the period of active growth of the plant, it should be watered twice a week so that the soil is constantly moist.
• The soil. To facilitate the care of home chrysanthemums, initially you need to make the right soil for planting. To do this, mix soddy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Chrysanthemum does not like acidic soil.

Caring for chrysanthemums in pots: transplanting and reproduction

Young chrysanthemums need to be transplanted into a pot every year. bigger size. Transshipment of an adult plant is done every two years. The soil should be the same as in the previous pot. If you wish to receive abundant flowering plants, you can add a little bird droppings to the soil. Be sure to make sure that the soil is not acidic, otherwise the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not bloom. In order to prevent diseases, the soil can be spilled with boiling water and dried.

Many consider chrysanthemum annual plant and discarded after flowering. In vain. You can save the chrysanthemum and even propagate it.

How to care for room chrysanthemum after flowering?
There is nothing complicated here - you need to cut the stems and put the pot in a cool and dark place. At the time of pruning, the plant may give young shoots, they are left in a pot. A pot of chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, periodically watering it. In the spring, you can start breeding chrysanthemums.

You can dilute your favorite indoor chrysanthemum using cuttings or by dividing the bush. Moreover, the latter method is most preferable due to the reliability and success of the event.

During the period of intensive growth of shoots, you can begin to reproduce the flower. One bush of room chrysanthemum is capable of producing up to 6 young shoots. Pots are prepared in advance for planting, filled with soil. Carefully separating the root system of a young shoot, it is planted in a pot and watered abundantly. Subject to the rules for caring for indoor chrysanthemums, the plant will bloom in the first year after planting.

Chrysanthemum cuttings require more time. Cuttings 10 cm long are cut from the bush, which are treated with heteroauxin or root and planted in a pot.

The cutting is deepened by 1.5 cm, and the pot is covered with a film. Seedlings are kept in a warm room with a temperature of about 20 degrees. Periodically, the pots need to be ventilated to prevent the development of fungal diseases. When the chrysanthemum grows to 15 cm, its top must be pinched to form a bush.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

It is not enough just to plant an indoor chrysanthemum in good soil and water it periodically. Like any plant, chrysanthemum quickly picks up from the soil nutrients. Therefore, if you have a room chrysanthemum, care must necessarily include periodic top dressing.

Chrysanthemum responds well to application mineral fertilizers. With untimely feeding with phosphorus and potassium, the chrysanthemum blooms later than usual. To prevent this from happening, the flower is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1:10) or another multicomponent fertilizer is used, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.

An adult plant is fed every 10 days during the active growth of shoots and leaves. It is best to use liquid organic matter. If the soil in the pot is depleted, top dressing is carried out every 4 days with mullein (1:10). You need to feed the chrysanthemum until the buds are formed.

Disease control

indoor chrysanthemum- a tasty flower for pests and diseases. Especially often on the bushes of indoor chrysanthemums settles spider mite. If during the care of indoor chrysanthemums you find a white cobweb, you need to take urgent action. The leaves and stem of the plant are wiped with a sponge dipped in soapy water, after which the bush is rinsed under warm shower. Actellik or pyrethrum solution will help get rid of spider mites.

Powdery mildew is another most common disease of indoor chrysanthemums. A gray coating is formed on the leaves and peduncles. Such a fungal disease occurs due to high humidity. The affected flower is treated with a fungicide and taken out to a dry room.

Sometimes flower growers notice a fluffy ash-colored coating on their room chrysanthemum. This is gray rot multiplies, causing browning of the edge of the chrysanthemum leaf and the appearance of brown spots on them. For treatment, the flower is sprayed with foundationazole, and the pot is placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place.

If the room is too dry, a red spider mite can settle on a room chrysanthemum. Brown spots with a border yellow color on the leaves they will tell you about the defeat of the flower by septoria. Fundazol treatment and reduced watering of the plant will help to cope with diseases.

Growing chrysanthemum at home - video

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eye of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you do not have a piece of land where you could grow this miracle? No need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners wonder if it is possible to grow garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum has a fairly large size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that for growing chrysanthemums choose only dwarf varieties, which do not grow, but are formed by a shrub. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are drugs that retard the growth of the plant in length. Thanks to such processing, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to cut the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to figure out in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting a chrysanthemum

1. Planting and transplanting chrysanthemum in early spring while the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant the most ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can transplant into a new pot the plant that you removed for the "wintering". If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
2. Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The latter method is the most acceptable, since in the presence of its own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
3. To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take a nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. Drainage should be laid out at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts garden soil must be mixed with one part of chicken or cow dung, one part of sand and four parts of soddy land. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted in such a way that its roots are completely in the soil.
4. If you are transplanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot must be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which the transplant may be less frequent.
5. Once you have "settled" the plant in a new place, it should be put on open air- balcony, loggia, window sill with outside window. But only if the temperature has already stabilized outside.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, care for her is slightly different from the classic.

1. Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and you need to water the plant 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out, it immediately dies from this. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant is enough once a month. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to root rot. In summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this makes it grow better.
2. Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant, it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The optimum winter temperature is 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive slight frosts down to -3 degrees.
3. Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you put the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out, and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you put a plant with north side, the buds may simply not open. Optimal choice- these are the eastern and western windows, that is, the places where the sun's rays fall on the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours each. Some experienced growers create an artificial environment, causing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating the night. So you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemum in a year.
4. Top dressing. Chrysanthemum should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, then the chrysanthemum does not need to be fed for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus in their composition.
5. Flower shaping. Often in flower shops sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum must be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the figure. This not only forms the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked twig. Usually in the spring-summer period, two or three moldings are enough.
6. Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for the winter so that next spring she pleased you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut. From the plant should remain cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After that, the flower, along with the pot, should be placed in a cool room - an entrance, a basement, a garage. Chrysanthemum for the winter can be transplanted into open ground. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry earth and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back in the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with a decrease in daylight hours, the plant did not please you with flowering, then the care was wrong. Pay attention to lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not get enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch a chrysanthemum late, there is a chance that you are cutting off the branches on which the buds were planned to form. Do not delay with molding, and if you did not have time to do it in the summer, do not touch the chrysanthemum, so as not to lose its flowering at all.

What causes chrysanthemum

Like other houseplants, chrysanthemums can be prone to diseases and pests. Most often on chrysanthemum bushes you can find a spider mite. You will easily understand about his presence on a thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate processing is required. The easiest way is a soapy wipe. Dilute in warm water soap solution and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. Rinse afterwards indoor flower under the shower, choosing light jets so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, then the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in stores for flower growers, will help. Chemical composition diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed onto the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower at high humidity. After processing, the pot should be moved to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown, and there is an ashy coating on the stems, then the plant is sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundation. But if the air in the room is too dry, the plant can hit the spider mite. He is exterminated alcohol tincture garlic.

Chrysanthemum is an amazing autumn flower. He plays with colors, delighting his owners various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home on your own.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but subject to the basic nuances, the plant will delight you for a long time, lush bloom. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great on their own and also as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

Recently, it has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity, the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of your pet and enjoy for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice of our article and grow a full-fledged houseplant.

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. For this they are too big and cold-loving. At the same time, breeders have bred enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible to carry out in apartment conditions.

Before buying, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance of creating suitable conditions for the pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. Basically, the classification is carried out according to the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most often used for growing at home.

The Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular, differing in more refined forms and the size of inflorescences. Room options are distinguished by a relatively high stem, on which a large (up to 15 cm in diameter) flower is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown as garden plants.

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is precisely the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall off, it is necessary to cut the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. These shapes can be decorated country cottage area, but for wintering it is better to find a fairly warm room with good ventilation.

Chrysanthemum zembla is more in demand as a garden crop, but it can also be found among the description indoor plants. characteristic features This plant will have fairly large inflorescences, petals folded into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most familiar will be yellow chrysanthemums, but among the breeding varieties there are even greenish and blue flowers.

General classification of chrysanthemums:

• If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, respectively, are much larger in diameter.
• According to the shape of the inflorescences, blanket and two-row, terry and semi-double are distinguished. You can find a generalized name - spherical chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round volumetric inflorescences.
• According to the flowering period, early, medium and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further cultivation colors. In late-flowering varieties, they, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
• The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm tall).
• The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile, with a pronounced core (usually in a contrasting color). double flowers do not have such a feature, but can attract petals of different lengths and configurations.

All varieties of this flower cannot be described, much less indicate all possible options colors. "Classic" white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up in the cold season.

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. Except purely visual effect, this plant is famous positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum has the greatest popularity and universal love in oriental cultures, especially for Japan. There, this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of prosperity, love and prosperity. To successfully grow a Japanese version of the lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

Proper care of chrysanthemum

After the purchase, special conditions must be observed so that the plant can take root safely and be able to please long flowering. Home chrysanthemum is extremely demanding on lighting, but it does not tolerate its excess. Sufficient moisture is welcome, but if the plant is flooded, it will die. All the nuances associated with the growth of chrysanthemums at home are described in detail below.

Soil and pot preparation

First of all, you need to take care of suitable composition soil. If you purchased a plant in a special nursery, you can leave the “native” land for a while, but after the chrysanthemum has faded, it is advisable to change the container to a slightly larger one.

Plant transplantation is carried out in a pot suitable sizes(it is desirable to use ceramic). At the bottom of the tank it is necessary to lay a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles.

The soil can be used purchased, intended for flowering plants, but a self-composed soil mixture will give the maximum return and growth.

The composition of the soil for chrysanthemums:

• Sod land - 2 parts.
• Leaf land - 1 part.
• Humus - 1 part.
• Coarse-grained sand - 1 part.

Chrysanthemum loves chicken manure as a fertilizer, but you should not get carried away so that the soil does not turn out too acidic. Regular loosening should not be carried out too deep so as not to damage the roots of the plant. In order to prevent the soil from the "garden", it is better to ignite it in the oven or actively pour hot water and then dry to normal.

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This will prevent the appearance possible pests and larvae in the soil. If you are using purchased soil, there is usually no need for this treatment.

Chrysanthemum transplant

It is advisable to carry out this procedure every year for a young plant. If the flower is already "adult", the frequency can be halved. Such a flower needs a transplant every two years.

A prerequisite is the complete replacement of the soil mixture, but its composition must remain the same as described above. The new pot should be about 2-3 centimeters wider than the previous one and 1-1.5 liters larger in girth.

The transplant procedure is extremely simple. From the old pot, the plant is carefully removed with a clod of earth where it is located root system. Trying not to damage the roots, the plant is planted in a new pot, compacted a little into the soil. After the transplantation procedure, the chrysanthemum is well watered and left for permanent place growth.

Growing conditions

Indoor chrysanthemum is not too thermophilic, the optimum temperature for it varies from 12-18 degrees Celsius. If the average temperature rises much above 23 degrees, successful cultivation chrysanthemum will not work. On too sunny window sills near heating radiators, she will be too uncomfortable, so it is better to take the flower to the balcony or loggia. If the air temperature is right, the chrysanthemum will grow quickly and bloom soon.

The first signs of an unsuccessful regimen are dryness and falling leaves and buds.

To ensure sufficient moisture, the plant is periodically sprayed with warm water. To do this, you can put an open container with water nearby, but in no case should you pour water into the plant pan. This will lead to the rapid death of the roots and the plant as a whole.

The sun's rays are extremely important for this photophilous plant. However, direct and strong, they can burn sensitive petals. Daylight hours should be within six to eight hours. Ambient light will be enough, but placing the pot too far from the sun will also be a huge mistake.

Chrysanthemum in a pot is extremely demanding on watering. However, excess moisture capable of destroying roots or causing fungal diseases. To prevent this from happening, the plant pot must have good drainage. All excess moisture that will accumulate in the pan is immediately removed so that the roots do not rot. It is necessary to water the chrysanthemum once or twice a week, preventing the soil from drying out. Water for this is settled for several days.

Do not use tap water without purification. The temperature should also be room temperature, otherwise the plant may get sick.

It will be optimal to spray the leaves more often to prevent dehydration of the plant. Also, for normal development, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the leaves, remove dried ones and wipe them from dust.

Fertilizers for this kind of plants are sold in ready-made. Usually this is a concentrated solution that is diluted in a certain ratio with ordinary water. Top dressing is extremely important to use during the period active flowering at least once every ten days.

Bush formation

To spray chrysanthemum became visually more attractive, young shoots need to be pinched regularly. Depending on the variety, this should be done at a distance of 10-15 centimeters. If you do not form a bush in time, you will get a lonely tall stem and a minimum of buds.

Reproduction and cultivation of chrysanthemums

Sufficiently strengthened plants willingly let out young shoots, from which it is possible to grow new chrysanthemums. Three methods are commonly used, which will be discussed below.

Planting perennial chrysanthemums:

An important point when growing chrysanthemums will be the need to pinch the top of a rooted plant. Thus, a compact rounded bush will subsequently form.

Caring for perennial chrysanthemums after flowering

Usually, after a month and a half, the plant gradually fades. If you notice that there are practically no new buds left, and the stems themselves begin to sway to the sides, it's time to give the chrysanthemum a rest. Usually the branches are cut to the very root, the soil is well watered and placed in a cool, dry place.

Do not cover the pot, so as not to provoke the appearance of the fungus. Additional watering of the chrysanthemum during the dormant period will also be superfluous. Usually, the rest lasts until the onset of spring, after which the plant must be installed in its original place and looked after according to the already familiar pattern.

Some growers practice re-growing the plant after the active phase. To do this, the stems are cut, but the care and location remain the same. After a short break, the chrysanthemum will start new shoots and will soon bloom again.

This method is quite dangerous and fraught with depletion of the earth, therefore, after repeated flowering, the chrysanthemum must be transplanted and allowed to fully rest.

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot is a painstaking and responsible business, every nuance will be important here. Despite the fact that this plant is usually perceived exclusively as a garden plant, the cultivation of indoor varieties is also extremely popular.

There is a special category of compact varieties of this wonderful flower. The variety of colors and types of flower will allow you to choose the perfect option. By observing the basic requirements of care, and avoiding waterlogging of the soil, you can successfully grow a beautiful flowering bush.

Mostly chrysanthemums are grown in a pot undersized varieties:

1. Chrysanthemum chinensis– hybrid perennial. The height of undersized varieties is up to 70 cm. Oval leaves with a bright aroma. Flowers - large-toothed simple and terry of various colors.
2. Chrysanthemum Indian- ideal for growing closed ground. Height - up to 50 cm. Particularly popular varieties: Snow Elf, Alt Gold, Aurora, Helen.
3. Korean chrysanthemum is good for growing in a pot. Globular flowers - bright different colors. The most common varieties: Orange Jam, Navare, Stella.

Features of caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot

Despite the fact that the chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant, growing it at home has some features. By adhering to them, you can grow a strong plant that blooms for a long time.

1. Temperature

chrysanthemum prefers Fresh air and relative coolness. Comfortable for them is the temperature from +10° to +15°, maximum - +18°. This is the optimum temperature at which the flower picks up a lot of buds and blooms for a long time.

The plant will endure well and hot summers if placed in a shaded and ventilated place. In winter, the suitable temperature for chrysanthemum is +2° to +5°.

2. Lighting

Chrysanthemum - plant short day and blooms when the day is reduced to 8-10 hours. Chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

The most suitable place for a chrysanthemum is a window with an east or west side premises. On windows facing north, the chrysanthemum may not bloom. On the south side, the plant must be shaded.

3. Soil

The soil for chrysanthemum should be loose and nutritious, but not acidic. To prepare the soil mixture you will need: garden and sod land, sand and humus in a ratio of 4:4:1:1.

For intense coloring of flowers, chicken manure can be added to the soil mixture.

5. Watering

Chrysanthemum needs good watering. It is necessary to water the flower regularly every 3-5 days. At the slightest drying of the soil, flowers and buds wither, and with an excess of moisture, the plant may die. Therefore, watering the chrysanthemum should be as soon as upper layer the soil will dry out.

Water preferably with filtered or rain water. It is desirable to defend tap water for 1-2 days. Too hard water can be boiled and water the plants with chilled water.

6. Humidity

Chrysanthemum needs a lot of humidity, yet initially it garden plant. Chrysanthemum care includes regular spraying with water. Spray the plant preferably in the morning.

It is better to use purified water for spraying, as tap water may leave plaque on the leaves. You can humidify the air if you place a container of water next to the flowers or use humidifiers. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped.

7. Top dressing

Chrysanthemum must be regularly fertilized in order for it to develop properly and bloom luxuriantly.

Once every 2 weeks, the plant must be fed:

1. During the growth period (spring-summer), when the plant is gaining mass, feed with fertilizer with large quantity nitrogen.
2. When the chrysanthemum is preparing to bloom and forms buds, it needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

The first top dressing is carried out 2-3 weeks after transplantation. If there is enough humus in the soil, then the first top dressing should be carried out in a month and a half.

8. Planting a chrysanthemum in a pot

Depending on the variety of chrysanthemum and the number of cuttings, choose a container for the plant:

1. For 1 plant- container with a diameter of 9 cm.
2. For 3 plants- 11 cm.
3. For 5 plants- 13 cm.

• Pour a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container - for drainage.
• Fill 2/3 of the container with soil mixture.
• A seedling is placed in the mixture and set so that the roots are on the surface. Carefully fill with compost. After planting, do not compact the soil so as not to damage the roots.
• Moisten the soil with a spray bottle and make sure that the soil is always wet.
• Place the container in a bright place, temperature up to + 10 °.

In order for the chrysanthemum to actively develop, you can use growth biostimulants.

10. Transplant

Chrysanthemum should be transplanted in the same way as most indoor plants. Young plants, up to 5 years old - replant every year, adults - once every 2 years.

After a period of rest, when the first shoots appear, the chrysanthemum should be transplanted:

1. Take a container for transplantation 2-3 cm wider than the previous one.
2. Pour drainage at the bottom of the container - a layer of expanded clay, on top - soil mixture(as described above).
3. Carefully remove the chrysanthemum from the old pot and move it to a new container.
4. Fill in the gaps with earth and lightly compact.
5. To prevent water from leaking out of the pot when watering, do not fill the soil to the very edge of the container.
6. Water the plant thoroughly.

How to prune a chrysanthemum

1. Formation of a bush

Pruning involves the removal of the upper part of the stem, due to which the growth of the plant slows down, the root system develops, side shoots appear:

1. Start pruning 10-15 days after planting.
2. From the stem, 12-15 cm long, cut with a sharp knife or secateurs upper part plants with 3-4 leaves.
3. After pruning, water the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.
4. After 2-3 weeks after pruning, shoots form in the axils of the leaves.

Do not prune while transplanting.

2. Preparation for the rest period

After flowering, the chrysanthemum must be cut off. Retreat from the soil surface 5-10 cm, using a pruner, cut the stems of the plant.

If you notice that the plant is damaged by aphids, cut off the diseased stems. Healthy plants cannot be cut after the sick with the same tool.

After pruning, the plants are cleaned in a cool (no more than + 5 °) dark room until spring. Pruning is necessary. The plant will rest and gain strength for better growth and flowering. During rest, the plant needs to be watered occasionally.

You can postpone the rest period if the bush is healthy and strong enough:

1. Cut the plant, transplant into a larger container. Completely replace the old substrate with a new one.
2. Chrysanthemum put in light warm place, temperature from +18° to +20°.
3. Water the flower 2-3 times a week.
4. Feed with a nitrogenous fertilizer once every 2 weeks.
5. After the appearance of the first buds, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With proper care, the chrysanthemum will bloom in 2-2.5 months. But after flowering it must be sent to rest.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum reproduces in 3 ways:

1. cuttings.
2. The division of the bush.
3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a period of rest, a month before cutting, transfer the container with chrysanthemum to a lighted warm place (from + 10 ° to + 12 °).

When 4-6 leaves are formed on the shoots, you can start cuttings:

1. It is better to take a high capacity, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered at first.
2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, given that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
3. Put drainage at the bottom of the tank - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour the soil, on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Pour.
4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, make the lower cut under the internode. Remove the bottom leaves.
5. Dip the cutting in the growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings by 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45 ° with a gap between them of 5 cm.
6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.
8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Division of the bush

Simple and more reliable way chrysanthemum reproduction is the division of the bush during the period of intensive growth of shoots.

From one bush of an overwintered plant, up to 6 divisions are obtained:

1. Water the bush before dividing.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden and soddy soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains a root.
4. Put the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with earth. Do not compact the ground.
5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally erode the soil.
6. Place the container with shoots in a bright warm (but not more than + 20 °) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the delenki will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Sowing time is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus into the container, 2: 0.5: 1.
3. Moisten the substrate and spread the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle thin layer light soil.
4. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and clean in a bright room (t from + 10 ° to + 15 °).
5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
6. After 7-12 days shoots will appear. Remove cover.
7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, the plant dives with an interval between them of 5-10 cm.

A month and a half before flowering, chrysanthemums are planted in a permanent place.

Disease and pest control

The aphid damages the shoots of the plant and leaves from the underside, which turn yellow and fall off. Spray with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Actellik. In case of severe damage, repeat spraying.

1. Red spider mite damages leaves that turn pale yellow and fall off. The cause of the disease may be dry air. Spray with insecticides.
2. Septoria- yellow spots appear on the leaves, and then brown spots. Remove diseased leaves and treat with fungicide. Do not spray the plant for several weeks, reduce watering. The cause of the disease is an excess of nitrogenous fertilizer.
3. powdery mildew covers the stems and leaves with a white coating. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with a fungicide.
4. Gray rot- appear on the plant brown spots, then covered with a gray coating. Cause of disease high humidity. Treat the plant with Fundazol. Repeat the treatment after a few days.

It must be remembered that chemicals unsafe. If possible, it is necessary to use biological preparations for treatment indoors.

When using pesticides, take every precaution to ventilate the room thoroughly.

Frequently Asked Questions and Answers

Question. Why doesn't the chrysanthemum bloom?

Answer. Chrysanthemum must bloom in autumn. If this did not happen, then care for her was violated. Reasons for the lack of flowering: the timing of pruning the plant is violated, the chrysanthemum does not have enough light, poor soil or lack of fertilizers.

Question. Do I need to pinch the chrysanthemum?

Answer. Yes, it needs to be shaped. In order not to get a long single trunk, when the shoots are 10-15 cm, it is necessary to pinch them. During the growing season - 2-3 times. The last pinching should be done 2 weeks before flowering, somewhere in mid-August. To form a beautiful spherical bush, you need to cut off all overgrown shoots.

Question. Why does the chrysanthemum dry out?

Answer. Chrysanthemum leaves dry for several reasons. Increased temperature of the plant, pests, poor soil and frequent watering. If the plant is carried out proper care, all top dressings have been carried out, upon careful examination no pests have been found, then the chrysanthemum must be carefully dug up. Inspect the roots, if they begin to rot, then all rotten roots must be removed. Transplant the flower into another pot with fresh but moist soil. Do not water the plant for several days.

Question. Where to store chrysanthemums in winter?

Answer. In a cool room - on the veranda, insulated balcony. If this is not possible, then you can store it on the windowsill, cutting the plant minimally, removing all dry branches and leaves. Water in the same way as during the growing season. You can put a flower in the basement for the winter. Cut the bush, remove all dried and rotten twigs and leaves. Water the soil 2 days before wintering. When placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.