Propagation of spray chrysanthemums by cuttings. Cuttings of chrysanthemums in autumn: methods, step by step instructions

Reproduction of chrysanthemums is organized in several ways. Cuttings are considered the most effective method to get new bushes. The features of reproduction of chrysanthemums will be discussed further.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings allows you to save the characteristics of the variety. Dividing a bush or sowing seeds does not give such high results. Chrysanthemums grown from cuttings are characterized by resistance to low temperatures and diseases, a lush crown and abundant flowering.

When propagated by cuttings, early and late cuttings are distinguished. Early ones are grown in the second half of winter in conditions of short daylight hours. The rooting process lasts 1 month. Chrysanthemum cuttings obtained in the second half of spring form roots within 12-17 days.

Information about the features of cuttings of chrysanthemums:

1. Rooting of small-flowered crops is faster than large-flowered varieties.
2. The fleshy shoots of chrysanthemums take root more difficult.
3. When propagating chrysanthemums of the same variety from cuttings of different ripening periods, subsequent flowering occurs simultaneously.
4. Reproduction by early shoots allows you to get flowers with a high stem.

When to cut chrysanthemum

Propagation by cuttings has several options:

1. In one case, a uterine bush is prepared in the fall, from which shoots are obtained in early spring. Varieties with large flowers give 8-16 cuttings, bushes of small-flowered chrysanthemums will delight with 20-30 new shoots.
2. The second way is to repeatedly cut the stem in the summer.

The optimal propagation period by cuttings depends on the variety of chrysanthemums, whether the culture is single-stem or multi-stem, small-flowered or large-flowered.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums in spring

For spring cuttings, a mother bush is required, the harvesting of which is carried out in the fall.

Harvesting mother liquors in autumn

Autumn preparation of the uterine bush is as follows:

• Before the onset of persistent frosts, the aerial part is cut off near the bush. The cut point is at a height of 5 cm from the ground.
• The bush is dug up and placed in a container of convenient size.
• The roots are covered with sand or soil and placed in a damp and cold cellar.

In the absence of a cellar, the bush is stored in a dark, cool place where the temperature does not rise above +7 ° C. If you do not withstand the temperature regime, there is a risk of premature shoots.

Storage of mother liquors in winter

In addition to maintaining a cool temperature, it is important to monitor soil moisture to preserve the mother bush. When storage is organized in a damp cellar, the need for watering often does not arise. If the soil is dry, the plant is watered in small portions.

To start cuttings of chrysanthemums in March, the mother bush is moved to a warm place 2 weeks before the end of winter and watered abundantly. The appearance of young shoots is expected after 7-10 days.

Planting and preparation of queen cells

When the shoots reach a height of 8-10 cm, they are cut off, leaving 2 pairs of leaves on the stumps. This will be the basis for the following shoots, which are also useful for propagation by cuttings. Small shoots for grafting are not used; unripe shoots are prone to decay. For selected suitable cuttings, the lower pair of leaves is removed.

Planting is carried out in moist soil to a depth of 15-20 mm. If a container without compartments is chosen for propagation, a gap of 5 cm is formed between the cuttings. Sometimes the shoots are planted one at a time in small cups. When pots are selected for propagation, the shoots are arranged in three pieces.

Finding a container with chrysanthemum shoots in room conditions obliges to cover it with a film. If the container is located in the greenhouse, additional use of the film is not required. The use of drugs that accelerate the formation of the root system is not necessary when cutting chrysanthemums.

Summer cuttings of chrysanthemums

It is even easier to propagate by cuttings in the summer. For flower growers with a light hand, it is enough to dig a cut branch with earth.

If you follow the rules, the process of summer cuttings is as follows:

• The lower part of the stem, which has become stiff, is not suitable for rooting. For these purposes, choose the upper part of the chrysanthemum bush with a softer stem.
• The top is cut off 10-15 cm from the upper edge; lateral processes are also suitable as cuttings.
• Seedlings choose a place in the shade.
• In addition to regular watering, buried cuttings are periodically sprayed.
• After 2-3 weeks, the plant will take root and begin to grow.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums from a bouquet

If you want to start breeding from a bouquet of efforts, you will need a little. The easiest way is to wait until the flowers in the vase take root, and then transplant them into a container with soil.

Do not rush to throw away a dried bouquet. The process of root formation is long, so be patient and do not expect a quick result.

Greater efficiency when propagating from a bouquet is achieved through simple manipulations:

• the top of the stem is cut off;
• side shoots can be used as a cutting;
• flowers and buds are removed from the stem;
• further actions are similar to propagation by a simple cutting.

Sometimes flower seeds are used for propagation from a bouquet. Seed material is collected when the chrysanthemum flowers dry up. In the spring they are sown for seedlings. This method of propagation is applicable only to varieties.

How to prepare cuttings

Harvesting cuttings for propagation is not difficult, but it has its own nuances. The procedure for spring harvesting of young cuttings taken from the chrysanthemum mother bush was discussed earlier. Depending on the period when they started rooting the cut stems, the shoots are immediately planted in the ground or kept in an impromptu greenhouse.

Consider the option of using a greenhouse. The main stages of the process:

• Strong branches of chrysanthemums are selected, without spots and excessive softness.
• The stem is cut with a sharp knife, choosing a place under the kidney, with a mandatory slope. The optimal length is 10-15 cm.
• Flowers are trimmed, leaves are removed.
• A substrate is prepared, which includes turf land and humus in a ratio of 2: 1.
• If sand is added to the total mixture, 1/4 of the volume of the earth is sufficient. Sometimes it is not mixed with the soil, but poured on top with a layer of 3 cm.
• At the bottom of the tank, drainage is prepared from expanded clay or broken bricks.
• The cutting is immersed in a drug that stimulates the formation of the root system. The exposure period is defined in the instructions for use.
• A sprig of chrysanthemum is placed in a container with a substrate shallowly in an inclined state.
• The container is covered with foil and placed in a warm place.
• Periodically, chrysanthemum cuttings are aired, opening the film.
• Signs of rooting will be the appearance of buds and the growth of leaves.
• After that, the film is removed, and the container is kept in a room with sunlight, where the temperature fluctuates within +18 °C.
• Depending on the weather conditions on the street, a strengthened chrysanthemum sprout is planted in open ground or waiting for the arrival of spring.

Planting the cutting in the substrate

For the full reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings, in addition to the optimal temperature and humidity, a high-quality substrate is important. The main qualities are a high degree of air and water permeability. Suitable for these purposes:

• peat in its pure form or mixed with sand;
• vermiculite with sand;
• sod land in combination with sand and peat in equal proportions;
• perlite;
• 2 parts of sod land, supplemented with sand and leafy soil in equal volumes.

A layer of substrate with a thickness of at least 10 cm is compacted and leveled. Most often, a layer of washed sand is added on top of 1-2 cm, it is even better if the sand is mixed with peat in equal proportions. Before planting chrysanthemum cuttings and after the end of the process, the soil mixture is qualitatively moistened.

How to care for cuttings

When propagating young shoots, chrysanthemum cuttings are deepened into the substrate by 1.5 cm so that the nascent roots are in the nutrient layer. The use of a peg will save the base of the handle from injury. If a container without compartments is chosen for rooting the shoots, the gap between early cuttings cut from January to March is 5 cm, for propagation by late cuttings in April-May, 4 cm is enough.

Features of caring for cuttings:

1. The temperature regime in the room is within + 15 ... + 18 ° C.
2. The temperature of the substrate is a couple of degrees higher.
3. Hotter, will lead to accelerated rooting, but will provoke rotting processes.
4. In the first week after planting cuttings for propagation of chrysanthemums, high humidity of the air and soil is especially important. A film that covers young shoots at a height of 0.35 m will help to fulfill this requirement.
5. Frequent spraying or watering is not required. Humidification of the substrate 1 time in 3 days will be enough.
6. After rooting, the film is removed for the daytime, the cuttings of chrysanthemums continue to be covered at night or in intense sunlight.

Good lighting promotes photosynthesis. Therefore, in winter, at night, additional light sources are organized. At a height of 1.5 m from the cuttings of chrysanthemums, lamps are installed with a calculation of 100 W per 1 m2.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

• The plant is dug out with care so as not to damage the root system, freed from the soil.
• Old stiff shoots are removed from the bush.
• Fresh branches are neatly divided.
• If they have excessively long side shoots, they are cut off.
• The processes are planted in separate holes with an interval of 25 cm.

The optimal period for the propagation of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush is late spring or late August.

Reproduction by layering

For winter-hardy and indoor varieties of chrysanthemums, a method of propagation by layering is suitable. The essence of the procedure is to obtain “children” from shoots dug in the fall.

Basic steps:

1. A trench is being prepared near the mother bush.
2. The width and depth of the recess corresponds to the size of the plant.
3. Chrysanthemum stems are tilted and fixed at the bottom of the groove with staples.
4. From above, the plant is covered with soil with a layer of 20 cm.
5. The uterine bush in this form remains to winter.
6. After spring awakening, young stems with their own root system are formed from the buds.
7. When the frosts completely recede, the mother bush is released from the ground and divided by the number of new root branches. After that, the young shoots of chrysanthemums are ready for planting in a flower bed.

Reproduction by seeds

The seed method of propagation of chrysanthemums is in demand by breeders.

The low popularity among ordinary flower growers is due to two factors:

• The method is less reliable than breeding by cuttings or by dividing the mother bush.
• Suitable for small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums and annual varieties.

The main actions will start at the end of the spring frosts:

1. Prepare wells at 25 cm intervals.
2. The recesses are watered with warm water, several seeds are laid in each at the same time.
3. Sowing is sprinkled with soil and covered with a film.
4. Shelter is removed after the first shoots.
5. The soil is periodically loosened and weeds are removed.
6. After 10 days, the shoots are fertilized with a solution of "Rainbow".
7. When the sprouts reach a height of 9 cm, one of the strongest is selected from each hole, the rest are transplanted to another place.

Chrysanthemums from seeds begin to bloom in August. If you want to get flowering in an earlier period, seed propagation is organized through seedlings grown in room conditions.

Reproduction by seeds at home:

• Shallow containers are chosen, drainage is prepared at the bottom.
• Fall asleep suitable substrate for chrysanthemums.
• Chrysanthemum seeds are laid out on top of the soil. If these are annuals, they are sprinkled a little with earth, the seed of perennial plants is slightly pressed into the ground.
• Crops are sprayed from a spray bottle, the seed container is under glass.
• Periodically organize ventilation.
• Optimum temperature +23…+25 °C.
• The first sprouts appear after half a month. After that, the containers are placed in a place with good lighting and the seedlings are acclimatized. The first hardening lasts 1 hour, gradually increase the time.
• Thinning begins no earlier than 3-4 leaves appear.
• During the subsequent transplantation, the soil is preliminarily well moistened, weak sprouts are removed.

Feeding dived chrysanthemums with diluted Zircon will help to take root well in a new place. Growing conditions vary slightly. The temperature is kept within + 15 ... + 18 ° C, the substrate is periodically moistened. At the end of May, seedlings are moved to open ground.

Planting planting material in the ground

Regardless of the propagation method, whether it was spring cuttings or seedlings obtained from seeds, in late spring or early May, young chrysanthemum sprouts are planted in open ground.

For a light-loving culture, choose a site on a hill with good drainage. The time spent under the rays of the sun should be at least 5 hours a day. Take care of the absence of strong winds and drafts. Soil suitable for acidity - with a neutral pH or slightly acidic, saturated with nutrients. Loams are the best option for propagating chrysanthemums, if the site has sandy or clay soil, its characteristics are improved by adding organic matter.

Fresh manure for chrysanthemums is categorically not suitable as organic fertilizers. It is recommended to use humus or compost, which is added to the soil before planting.

An excessive amount of fertilizer leads to a rapid set of green mass, and you can not wait for the flowering of chrysanthemums.

The ideal time for landing in open ground is rainy or cloudy weather. Cuttings or seedlings are placed at intervals of 15 cm in holes 25-35 cm deep. The height of the bushes suitable for propagation is 30-50 cm. It is recommended to feed the planted shoots with Kornevin at the rate of 1 g of the substance per 1 liter of water.

Cuttings are the best way to propagate chrysanthemums. The spring process is organized with the help of a mother bush dug out in the fall. During the summer, cuttings are obtained by regular pruning of the stem. Compliance with the conditions of reproduction will allow you to get strong and healthy young chrysanthemum bushes.

When growing chrysanthemums from seeds, a loss of their varietal characteristics is often noted. Cuttings are considered the most reliable way to reproduce valuable varieties in large quantities. This method is a kind of vegetative propagation. Popular in recent years, the Korean chrysanthemum is sometimes propagated by dividing the bush. At the same time, the percentage of its reproduction is quite low. Chrysanthemum cuttings of this species take root easily and retain all the specific features of the original plant. Thanks to this method, any interesting variety can be quickly propagated.

"Early" cuttings are those grown in winter (January-February) with short daylight hours. They take root within 1 month. "Late" cuttings obtained in April-May form roots in 1-2 weeks.

Features of propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings

The rooting of cuttings and the growth of these flowers have certain features:

• small-flowered plants take root much faster than large-flowered ones;
• varieties in which fleshy and thick shoots take root much worse;
• plants of the same variety, when grown from "early" and "late" cuttings, enter the flowering period almost simultaneously;
• cutting time strongly affects only the size of the plant (very tall stems grow from the "early" shoots).

How to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings?

The process of reproduction of chrysanthemums begins with the selection of the best adult plants of their kind, called mother liquors.

In autumn, healthy bushes with ideal inflorescences are chosen. They should not show any signs of diseases or pests. At the end of flowering, the queen cells are added dropwise in greenhouses or transplanted into boxes. Chrysanthemum bushes are left in a cool place, protected from excess moisture. Closed terraces, verandas or bright sheds are suitable for their storage. The place of storage of queen cells depends on the level of winter temperature. The ideal conditions for a period of physiological rest is between 3-5 °C. The main rule for their successful preservation is that these flowers should not be at a temperature of less than 1 ° C.

To obtain young plants with an excellent level of flowering, it is necessary to vernalize the mother liquors. For this, the plants are kept in rooms with a temperature of 1-4 °C for 3-4 weeks. The absence of such a procedure often leads to the fact that some varieties of chrysanthemums never bloom.

To obtain good planting material, mother plants are transferred to a warm, well-lit room and watered regularly. A few days later, renewal buds awaken on their roots. At the same time, root shoots begin to grow from the mother liquor. The effectiveness of cuttings depends entirely on the number of new shoots. To obtain a sufficient number of plants, mother liquors begin to prepare for cuttings as early as February. Most often, this procedure is performed in early spring.

Only those shoots that grow from the root are suitable for cuttings. That is why any "stumps", which are lignified flower stems, should be cut off. Since the development of root shoots is often uneven, with a small number of queen cells it is problematic to obtain young plants of the same age. To solve this problem, cut cuttings are stored in wet sawdust in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for about 2 weeks. Upon receipt of a sufficient number of cuttings, they begin to root them.

How to cut chrysanthemums?

The root shoot is cut off with a sharp knife under the leaf node, when 2-3 internodes are formed on it. The resulting cuttings are planted in boxes or low pots with a fertile substrate with a neutral reaction. It is prepared from fertile soil, humus and sand, taken in a ratio of 2: 1: 0.5. The thickness of the substrate should be 3-4 cm. Calcined sand is poured on top of it. Its layer should be 2-2.5 cm. You can also use a mixture of perlite and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This substrate has high moisture capacity and breathability.

For quick rooting of cuttings, they are treated with a solution of a root formation stimulator. To do this, use the drug "Kornevin" or alpha-naphthylacetic acid (NAA).

Cuttings are buried in the substrate to a depth of 2.5-3 cm. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is 18-20 °C. In the room used for rooting cuttings, it is necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate. To do this, a “dome” is made of a polyethylene film over the container, which provides the necessary air humidity.

cultivation

Caring for cuttings consists in daily spraying and regular watering. Successful rooting is evidenced by the appearance of growth on the shoot. Plants can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer. About 1 month after the rooting of the cuttings begins, a root system develops on them. After it becomes powerful enough, new plants are planted in open ground. Most often this happens in May-June.

In the event that rooted shoots cannot be planted in open ground due to the possibility of frost, they are kept in rooms with an air temperature of 8-10 ° C. Under such conditions, the "overgrowth" of the cuttings will be prevented. They are planted in a permanent place only after there is no threat of spring frosts. If it is not planned to root the cuttings immediately after cutting, then they are placed in a container with water.

Cuttings of large-flowered chrysanthemums are carried out from January to April, and small-flowered ones - from February to the end of May. Propagation of chrysanthemums in autumn involves planting rooted cuttings in late May and early summer. In this case, the early flowering of a young bush will be next year.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings - video

Propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings is easy even for beginners. However, certain knowledge and recommendations for beginner flower growers will still be required. Usually chrysanthemums are cut in the spring, but this can be done in the summer and even in the fall.

Bouquet of chrysanthemums

Substrate for cuttings must be air and water permeable. If chrysanthemum cuttings are planted immediately in cups, then it is better to pour fertile soil on the bottom of the cups. But for the top layer (2 - 3 cm), you can use peat or perlite in its pure form, or mixed with sand. A mixture of one part forest land and one part sand is also suitable.

Chrysanthemum cuttings in spring

mother bush. For spring cuttings, you will need a mother liquor from which they will

mother bush

cuttings are prepared. It must be prepared in the fall. Before frost, cut off the entire above-ground part of the chrysanthemum bush to the very ground. Dig it up and place it in any dish of suitable size, in a large pot, bucket, basin, etc. Cover the roots with earth or sand and place in a cold, damp cellar. If there is no cellar, use any room where the temperature does not exceed +5 - 7C. At higher temperatures, shoots may appear ahead of time.

Watering mother liquor during wintering. The ground should be slightly damp throughout the winter. In a damp cellar, watering may not be required. But you can not overdry, the plant may die. If the soil is dry, water it a little.

When to start cuttings. Spring cuttings of chrysanthemums are usually carried out in March. In mid-February, transfer the mother bush to a warm room and water it well. After 7-10 days, young shoots will begin to appear.

Prepared cuttings

How to prepare cuttings. Wait until the height of the shoots is 8 - 10 cm. Cut them so that two pairs of leaves remain on the remaining stumps. Then new shoots will grow faster on them, which can also be cuttings. Small shoots should not be cut off, they are not yet mature and can rot. From cooked cuttings, remove the bottom pair of leaves. The top leaves do not need to be trimmed.

Landing. Before planting, the prepared soil must be spilled with water. Cuttings are planted in a common stalk at a distance of 5 cm between plants and to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. You can plant them in cups one at a time, or three cuttings in pots at once. In the latter case, in a few months you will get a very pretty, flowering bush of chrysanthemums (bottom photo).

If the stalk is in room conditions, then it must be covered with a film. When grown in

Planting in pots

greenhouse film cover is not required.

When propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings, the use of root-forming preparations is not necessary.

How to care. Care consists of daily spraying with water and watering as needed. It is desirable to maintain the temperature within 16 - 18C. Rooting occurs in 20 - 25 days.

When young sprouts appear, the film can be removed. After rooting and beginning to grow, feed young chrysanthemums with complex min. fertilizer 1 time in 10 - 15 days.

Summer cuttings of chrysanthemums

The easiest way to root cuttings of chrysanthemums in the summer. Sometimes it's enough just to stick a broken branch into

Film shelter

earth. But we will do everything right.

The lower, lignified part of the stem takes root worse than the upper, softer one. Therefore, it is better to cut off the top 10-15 cm long (you can also break off the lateral processes). Choose a place for planting in the shade, or shade your seedlings. Spray the seedlings often with water and of course do not forget to water them. After 2-3 weeks, you will see how the plants begin to come to life and slowly start to grow.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums in autumn

Autumn propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings will be of most interest to people who grow flowers for sale. Indeed, in this case it is very important to have seedlings already flowering in the spring. In the photo you see chrysanthemum seedlings blooming in early April, cut by cuttings at the end of November.

Chrysanthemum seedlings blooming in early April

Late autumn is not the best time for cuttings, and for all types of plantings. But chrysanthemums can be cut. And with 100% survival rate.

The mother bush is prepared as usual in the fall. Cut off all the shoots to the very root and let him sit for another two weeks in the ground. With the onset of already “serious” frosts, dig out the mother liquor and bring it into the greenhouse. Root shoots will appear soon. When their height reaches 7 - 8 cm, they can be cuttings.

Just do not cut as usual, but pick it out of the ground, tearing it off the root. This is the main secret of success. Everything else is done as usual. From one mother liquor, you can "pick up" 20 - 25 cuttings. Of course, this method is also applicable for spring cuttings.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums from a bouquet

To propagate chrysanthemums from a bouquet, you often don’t have to do anything at all. You just have to wait until the flowers put into the water will give roots and then plant them in a pot with earth. Just don't rush

Such flowers will not leave anyone indifferent.

Throw away dead flowers. The process of root formation is not so fast.

If you want to be sure, then immediately cut off the top of the stem (or break off the side shoots), remove the buds and flowers and grow as a regular cutting. After all, the reproduction of chrysanthemums from a bouquet is the usual reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings. All the rules of which we have just considered.

In addition to this topic, I want to say that not only cuttings can be used from a donated bouquet. It is easy to collect seeds from dried flowers, and sow them for seedlings in spring. True, this applies only to small-flowered chrysanthemums.

This is how you can grow chrysanthemums in the garden, presented to you in a bouquet.

These flowers can rightly be called imperial. They are depicted on the coat of arms of the Land of the Rising Sun and on Japanese coins. The highest award in this state is the Order of the Chrysanthemum. In the East, it is believed that the cultivation of a solar flower brings happiness. Amazing golden baskets delight in autumn days with bright colors of the bouquet. In the cut, such flowers can maintain an attractive appearance for a long time - up to several weeks. Chrysanthemum reproduction of which is not difficult, will give the joy of contemplating the wonderful flowering on gloomy autumn days and fill the flower bed with beautiful baskets.

There are perennial and annual varieties. All of them belong to the Astrov family. They are shrubs or herbs. The length of the stem can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 meters. Flowers are collected in baskets. Most often they are quite large. Many varieties have terry inflorescences. Shoots can be not only naked, but also pubescent. The plant produces seeds.

About thirty wild species are known. Their natural habitat is the northern and temperate zones, located mainly in Asia. According to archaeological research, two and a half thousand years ago, the culture was known in China. The petals of the flower have even been used in cooking. Even the famous sage Confucius mentioned it in one of his treatises.

Then the plant came to the Land of the Rising Sun, where it became a revered symbol of the imperial family. In the countries of the Old World, they learned about the flower in the eighteenth century, but they began to actively grow it only a century later.

Know! The name of the flower is translated from Greek as "flower-sun", as well as "golden-colored". The plant received this name for the traditional yellow shade of the petals for many species.

In the scientific community, there are disputes about the origin of a common species - the garden chrysanthemum. Some researchers believe that its ancestors are the Japanese variety with small flowers and the Chinese variety with large ones. Other scientists put forward versions of a combination of a species from China with an Indian small-colored. Until now, breeders are actively engaged in the creation of new varieties of an amazing sunny flower.

Methods for propagating chrysanthemums at home

Flower growers successfully use several ways to get "kids". These methods are:

• cuttings;
• propagation by seed;
• division of the mother liquor;
• rooting cut flowers from a bouquet.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The gardener determines the best option individually.

How to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings from a bouquet

This option of getting "children" is not difficult. It is necessary to wait until the bouquet fades. After that, all the leaves are removed, and the top is pinched. The water in the vase is regularly updated until the roots appear. After that, the seedlings are transplanted into a garden bed or into a flowerpot. Seedlings should not be buried too deep. Five centimeters is enough. Dry inflorescences are ideal for collecting seeds. In the spring they will give life to the young.

The process of propagation of chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn and spring

Cuttings are an effective, proven method of obtaining young stock. The seed method and the principle of dividing the bush do not allow to properly preserve and transfer all the best varietal characteristics from the mother plant to the daughter plant. It is the cuttings that become the basis for growing powerful, healthy bushes with good immunity to major diseases. Such beauties are characterized by abundant flowering. For this reason, cuttings are considered a reliable and simple method.

The soil

A suitable substrate will be a mixture consisting of earth, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. On top of the pot, you will need to add river sand and peat in equal amounts. The layer should be no thicker than 5 centimeters. As a soil for rooting planting material, you can use a combination of sand in equal proportions with:

• sphagnum;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• peat.

An important step is the process of disinfection of the prepared soil mixture. This allows you to protect future seedlings from all kinds of diseases and makes it possible to grow strong seedlings. You can ignite the soil in the oven for at least an hour. The second option is to keep the substrate over the water bath steam for four hours. Then the soil mixture is treated with Baikal M-1, Gamair, Fitosporin, Alirin. This allows you to additionally get rid of pathogenic microorganisms in the ground and enrich the substrate with nutrients.

Attention! Only strong, thoroughly overgrown specimens are chosen as parental ones.

spring procedure

This is the best period for cuttings. For early species, March-April will be the best time, the period from April to May is suitable for middle and late.

Starting from the second half of February, the uterine bush is moved to a warm room and abundant irrigation begins. It is advisable to carry out top dressing with organic matter. The key to good health and rapid development of young animals will be the introduction of ammonium nitrate. After the appearance of new young branches, it should take about a week and a half for them to reach 10 centimeters in length. Then they are cut off. Such a cutting should have at least four internodes.

To harvest planting material, the lower leaves on the cut shoots are removed and the upper ones are shortened by a third. Only a stump with a few leaves is left on the mother plant. They will become a new point of growth. Only elastic and strong cuttings are suitable for the propagation procedure. Too soft or hard twigs will not work. Existing buds must be removed.

Requires a moist substrate. The depth of the hole should not exceed two centimeters. The distance between the branches is five centimeters. Up to four blanks can be placed in one container. If possible, plant one shoot in cups or pots.

In the case of early varieties, the container with plantings is covered with plastic wrap and taken out into the street. In such a greenhouse, the "roof" should rise 40 cm above the tops of the young. When watering, the film is lifted. When rooting, new leaves appear. After the appearance of five to seven pieces, pinch the bush. When the side branches reach 10 cm in length, the top is shortened again. In this way, a compact spreading bush is formed. It also becomes weather resistant.

A week before planting on the street, seedlings begin to harden. To do this, the young are left on the balcony or veranda, after removing the film. At night, the bushes must be covered. After the threat of frost has passed, the seedlings are moved to the open ground.

Attention! It is important not to expose the "kids" to the harmful effects of a draft.

There is a hassle-free cutting option. It does not require either germination or growing seedlings - you can directly plant blanks in a flower bed. This can be done in May-June, when summer finally comes into its own and it becomes really warm. Shoots are cut on overwintered bushes. These should be young branches of the current growing season. Their length should not be less than 15 cm. It is required to cut the shoots to half.

The blanks are immediately determined on a high ridge. It is required to sprinkle them with sand and thoroughly shed the soil with water. From above organize shelter. Between the film and the tops of the young should remain at least half a meter. On warm days, the cover can be removed. In cold weather - install. Two weeks after the appearance of the root system, "teenagers" are transplanted to a permanent place.

Attention! Best of all, flowers feel in open sunny flower beds. This ensures their active growth and development. The decorative period with a good level of illumination can stretch up to a month.

Cuttings in the summer are even easier. Sometimes a shoot planted outside of any rules and recommendations develops into a beautiful bush. It is only advisable not to cut the shoots in too hot, cold or unstable weather. Suitable green tops up to 15 cm long. It is better to plant them in a shaded area.

"Kids" need to be sprayed several times daily and watered as needed. After two or three weeks, the stems give roots. Development begins. Now they can be transplanted to a permanent sunny place. Transfer necessarily with an earthen clod. Teenagers are growing fast. By autumn, you can already see flowers on them.

Autumn procedure

First, they wait until the mother bush fades. Then cut off the aerial part to the root. And in this form, the plant is left for a couple of weeks, before the onset of cold weather. Then the mother liquor is transferred for wintering to a house or greenhouse.

After the appearance of basal shoots, they wait until they grow up to ten centimeters in length. After that they are separated.

Attention! In autumn, the cuttings are not cut, namely, they are torn off from the roots. This is the fundamental difference in the procedure in different periods of the year. Planting care will be the same.

If it was not possible to transplant the young to the street in September, then they organize wintering indoors. A dry basement, a glazed loggia or a warm veranda is suitable. Monitor the condition of the substrate - it should not dry out or be too moist. It is important to feel the measure in everything. In the spring, "teenagers" are moved to a permanent place in the flower bed.

Chrysanthemum seed propagation technology

Cuttings and division of mother bushes are the easiest ways. But breeding with the help of sowing allows you to engage in breeding activities. This method is relevant not only for the propagation of perennials, but also for annual varieties.

In the case of the latter, sowing is carried out after the end of the period of spring frosts. Depressions in the soil are made at a distance of 25 centimeters. The wells are watered with heated water, a few grains are placed in each. Sprinkling the crops with soil, be sure to create a film shelter. After the appearance of the first growth, the film is removed. The soil must be loosened and weeds must be removed.

After a week and a half, the "kids" are fed with a solution of "Rainbow" or "Ideal". When the seedlings grow up to nine centimeters, one of the healthiest ones is chosen, and the rest are removed from the hole. They can be moved to another flower garden. "Teens" will begin to bloom around August.

Important! If an earlier decorative period is required, it is recommended to grow young growth through seedlings.

She is grown indoors. Not too deep containers will be needed. The prepared substrate is poured there. For the mixture, peat, earth and humus are taken in equal proportions. If self-prepared soil is used, it must be disinfected. To do this, the soil must be calcined in the oven at a temperature of 120 degrees.

You can buy already prepared substrate in the store. At the bottom of the box, a special drainage layer of expanded clay or brick chips, pebbles is equipped. The soil mixture is laid on top. The seeds are laid out on top. Sowing material of annuals is lightly sprinkled with earth, and perennials - only slightly pressed into the substrate with the palm of your hand.

Crops are sprayed with water from a fine spray gun, cover the container with glass. The required temperature regime in the room is in the range from 23 to 25 degrees. Periodically, the shelter is raised, providing an opportunity for airing plantings and moistening the soil as needed.

Young shoots will appear in about two weeks. After that, the container is transferred to a well-lit place and the seedlings gradually acclimatize. First, the film cover is removed for an hour, then for two, and so with time it is finally removed.
If it is necessary to thin out too dense plantings, wait for phases of 3-4 true leaves. Seedlings dive into separate pots. It is important to carefully handle the delicate roots of seedlings. It is better to thoroughly saturate the soil in a container with moisture beforehand. Weak, frail seedlings are removed.

Important! It is advisable to treat the “kids” with diluted “Epin” or “Zircon” after the picking event. This will allow the “teenagers” to quickly settle down in a new place.

The optimum room temperature should be 16-18⁰C. Watering seedlings should be moderate, as needed. Twice a month, top dressing is carried out with complex fertilizer. In case of insufficient lighting, they provide additional lighting with the help of special fitolamps. "Kids" grow slowly - only 20 centimeters in a month and a half.

Seedlings are moved to the flower bed after the end of the season of return frosts. Most often, this opportunity appears at the end of May or at the beginning of the first summer month. Chrysanthemums can also be planted in autumn, but no later than a couple of weeks before the first frost.

For a sunny flower, it is imperative to allocate an elevated area with good drainage, warmed and illuminated by sunlight for at least five hours a day. The territory must be reliably protected from harsh and strong winds. The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral in ph, saturated with nutrients. It is preferable to grow a garden beauty on loam. Clay soils or sand are improved by adding organic matter.

Important! You can not allow the use of fresh manure - the flower does not tolerate it. Prefers humus. It can be added immediately before planting to a special nutrient complex.

With an overdose of fertilizers, the garden beauty may not bloom, but begin to rapidly gain green mass.
For planting young animals in the garden choose a cloudy day. It is even better to plant in the rain. The height of the bushes should already reach at least thirty centimeters and not exceed fifty. After planting, the seedlings are watered with diluted Kornevin. 1 gram per liter of water will be enough to get a healthy root system. After transplantation, the “teenagers” have the top removed. After pinching, the bed is covered with lutrasil to create an optimal microclimate for growth and development. As soon as the seedlings take root, the cover is removed.

We propagate chrysanthemum by dividing the bush

When the perennial reaches the age of three years, it is desirable to divide the overgrown adult bush. This is one way to get new plants. The algorithm of necessary actions is quite simple:

• the bush is carefully dug up and freed from excess land;
• save him from old shoots that have already become woody;
• separate fresh branches;
• cut young shoots if they are very long;
• they are planted in separate holes at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.

The event can be held in late spring or late summer. In the latter case, you will need to prepare the garden beauty for the arrival of winter.

We propagate chrysanthemum with layering

The method is relevant in the case of winter-hardy species or indoor varieties. For breeding and getting "kids" it is enough just to dig up the shoots. In autumn, a trench is made next to the mother bush. Its depth and width should correspond to the width and height of the plant. The stem with other shoots is tilted and placed in a groove, attached to the bottom with a bracket. A layer of soil 20 cm thick is poured on top. In this form, the mother liquor is left for the winter.

In the spring, new stems emerge from the buds. Each of them will have its own root system. After the end of the frost period, the mother liquor is released and divided into parts according to the number of root branches. Then the resulting "children" are seated in a flower bed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by sowing seeds in open ground

You can sow from the time the flowers appear until mid-August. The method is suitable for almost all annuals. The procedure is as follows:

1. The distance between the holes is approximately 40 cm.
2. Be sure to water the prepared holes. Place two seeds in each hole. Sprinkle the crops with earth and cover with polyethylene.
3. After the appearance of the first growth - remove the shelter. Feed after a week. Thin out seedlings at a seedling height of eleven centimeters.

Common mistakes when propagating chrysanthemums and how to avoid them

Breeding a solar flower does not require special skills. But, given the experience of other gardeners, it is important to avoid common beginner mistakes.

It is better to cut the mother liquors as low as possible. Do not leave long stems. The main thing is to try to carry out the manipulation very carefully and not damage the sleeping kidneys. Carry out pre-treatment from rot and insects.
If you bring flowerpots with mother bushes a little earlier from the basement and provide them with additional illumination, the growth will not stretch out and will not be frail.

The mother liquor should be cut back in December. Otherwise, the garden beauty will hardly give young shoots, weaken and die.
In winter, it is better not to engage in dividing the bush. This is because the root shoots differ in height and do not have their own roots. It is better to carry out the plan in February or March. Cuttings are also better at the same time.

When trying to root cut flowers from a bouquet, the material does not always take root. This can happen for a number of reasons:

• weak mother plants or shoots;
• temperature fluctuations or lack of heat in the room;
• it is impossible to overexpose the blanks in a solution of a growth-enhancing drug - this is the main mistake;
• do not place rooted material in water - only soil;
• the absence of a polyethylene "cap" over the landings;
• defeat by a fungal disease from the soil;
• poor quality of the stalk taken for propagation (for example, too soft).

Conclusion

Chrysanthemum will delight the gardener and his loved ones, and simple breeding methods will fill the garden with bright colors of imperial flowers.

Chrysanthemum propagation methods

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or by dividing the bush. Amateur flower growers often use vegetative methods.

Adult chrysanthemum bushes grow strongly and need to be divided every 2-3 years.
in early spring is the easiest and most effective propagation method for amateur gardeners and for those who sell plants.

The method is also widely practiced at the end of winter and early spring, when flower growers root cuttings of young shoots at home. Also available in spring and summer.

I cut chrysanthemums in autumn. I also cut chrysanthemums. I do this in late autumn - at the end of October and the beginning of November, when frosts already shackle the garden soil.

Autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums

From flowering chrysanthemums, I cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. In the same way as or, or other plants.

I put the chopped cuttings of chrysanthemums in a container of water. I pour a little water, only 2-3 cm, and be sure to add it to it. Lately I've been using Ribav E.
As the water evaporates, I only add it to the container, and do not change the water completely.
Soon, roots begin to form at the cuttings (see the title photo for chrysanthemum stem cuttings with rudiments of roots and shoots).

For a month and a half, a chrysanthemum stalk usually gives roots. And during this time, not only roots are formed in him, but also a new shoot.

My experiments with rooting cuttings of chrysanthemums

In past years, I tried to leave some of my rooted cuttings in the water until spring. At the same time, part of the plants died, and the rest of the cuttings of chrysanthemums gave powerful roots. And until the transplant into the ground, the rooted cuttings were in the water.

I tried to root chrysanthemum cuttings in both a dark plastic container and a glass one. I noticed that in a glass container, the plants took root faster.

The thinner the chrysanthemum stalk was, the longer it took root (or did not take root at all).

The lower the chrysanthemum stalk was cut to the root of the plant, the faster it gave roots.

Part of the cuttings of chrysanthemums with developed roots was planted in the ground, and part of the rooted cuttings of chrysanthemums was left in the water. I planted them in the ground with longer and more numerous roots later.

I put the container with the planted cuttings in a mini-greenhouse, placing it under the package. Over time, I remove the bag when the plants take root in the substrate and start to grow ..

This is how my rooted chrysanthemum cuttings look like now (at the beginning of April 2016).
As soon as the temperature on the balcony is more than +5 degrees in spring, I take out young plants there for a walk.

Chrysanthemums grown from rooted cuttings bloom early. Young chrysanthemum bushes grow rapidly.

Perhaps my experience of autumn cuttings of my favorite chrysanthemums will be of interest to other flower growers. I would be glad if someone tries to grow from a cutting in this way and successfully saves the chrysanthemum they like.

Valentina Odinokova (Moscow - Tver region)

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