Astilba: cultivation, planting and care. Astilba - planting and care in the open field without any hassle! What is the best way to plant astilba in spring

Astilba is a perennial herbaceous plant. From year to year, she wins her place of honor in ornamental gardens. She is valued for her openwork light panicle inflorescences and rich green foliage. Castings sit on long petioles and form a lush bush. Astilba is variable: the color of flowers varies from white to burgundy, and the height of the plant is from 15 to 200 cm. It can be used in the garden as a background, groundcover, and also as a tapeworm (tall varieties).

Another shade-tolerant ode and its flowering occurs in July-August, when most perennials are already finishing blooming.

Features of growing astilbe in the open field in the garden

Astilba prefers a penumbra or shady location.

Plants are sold in garden centers on open marketplaces. Most often sold flowering plants in a temporary container. If you purchased this, then cut off the flower stalks when planting so that the plant takes root more easily in open field.

Most astilbe requires attention in late summer and autumn, when pruning is required. Otherwise, it is quite easy to care for, if the garden is systematically maintained and the landing site is chosen correctly.

Planting astilba in the ground

Plant the plant, slightly deepening it so that there is a small hole around it. The growth point itself, from where young leaves and flower stalks will grow, should be above the soil surface. Compact the soil around the plant and water thoroughly. For the first time after planting, refrain from top dressing, let the young roots go deeper and look for food there.

Landing methods

The main method used when planting astilbe is the transshipment method, when the root system is not disturbed, and the plant gently moves into the ground for permanent place.

Optimal landing time

If you purchased a container-rooted plant, select evening time during the warm period. Until planting, keep the root ball moist and the plant itself in the shade.

Soil for the plant (Composition and soil selection)

The soil must be fertile and permeable. If there is black soil at the place where the planting is planned, then add some sand and peat to it.

Planting in autumn

It is better to plant in spring or closer to autumn, when the heat is not so strong. Then the plant does not evaporate much moisture and calmly “engages” in rooting.

Planting in autumn is optimal. The plant begins to naturally shed its leaves (sometimes some of the leaves remain until the next year), young seedlings take root, and in adult plants the rudiments of future leaves, inflorescences and young divisions are laid.

Planting in the spring

Spring planting is more risky. The weather can change dramatically in the direction of warming - there is a chance that the plant will get sick from a lack of atmospheric humidity.

Abundant and regular watering will provide optimal soil moisture conditions and a long decorative period.

Between plants it is necessary to periodically weed weeds. The soil between plants practically does not need loosening, since its surface is covered with foliage and thus protected from erosion. To prevent the formation of a crust, landings can be mulched with wood chips. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture and eliminate additional weeding and loosening.

Location and lighting for the plant

Place landings with astilba in a quiet place, protected from the wind. On the open sun the plant can dry out and get foliage burns. The flowering period in full sun will also be shorter.

Air humidity

Constant humidity will benefit astilbe. In extreme heat, the drying of the tips of the leaves indicates the dryness of the air. It is preferable to have landings near a pool, stream, pond, where constant evaporation contributes to an increase in humidity levels.

How to water properly

Watering should be regular and plentiful so that the entire root layer (35-50 cm, depending on the variety) is saturated with water. would be ideal drip irrigation, configured so that each plant receives water. It is advisable to water with warm water.

Flower nutrition and fertilizer

Complex mineral fertilizer can be applied in spring, when the plant begins to grow, and in autumn, when future flowers and shoots are laid. Autumn top dressing should be low in nitrogen so that the plants do not start growing even before the onset of stable cold weather.

astilbe pruning

Sanitary pruning consists of removing faded inflorescences and then removing dying foliage as needed.

Trimming methods

Remove flower stalks completely, cutting off at the very base. The leaves can be carefully broken out so that there are no "stumps" where pests, spores of fungi and bacteria can overwinter.

pruning in autumn

In autumn, you can cut off the entire aerial part of the plant at a height of 1-1.5 cm. Or leave this event until spring: in winter, snow-covered astilb panicles look very decorative.

Transplantation of adult bushes can be carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush about once every 3-4 years.

Wells are pre-prepared for new seedlings. The plant is dug up, carefully divided into parts, cutting the fused places with a sharp knife.

Transplant methods

Sometimes it happens that during the life of the garden, some plants fall out or are added. And astilba may be in other conditions that are not suitable for her. For example, in the bright sun or, on the contrary, in dense shade. Then there is the need for a plant transplant.

Transplant in autumn

Do it better in the fall. The plant is dug up with a lump, preferably with a lump, and immediately transferred to a prepared new place. The soil must be compacted and watered abundantly for new plantings for the first 2-3 weeks, when the plant begins to actively take root.

Reproduction of astilba

On your site, you can only vegetative reproduction- by planting young shoots, which can be separated from the mother plant at the time of planting and rejuvenation of the bush.

Reproduction methods

Interesting! In the production of planting material, astilba is propagated using phytogenetic methods. At the same time, cells are taken from the plant in the meristem zone (zone of active cell growth) and, under special conditions, hundreds of young microscopic plants with roots and leaves are grown from them. Then they are planted with tweezers in the soil, in pallets (small container cells).

Reproduction of astilba by dividing the bush

As mentioned above, astilba can be successfully propagated by dividing the bush. So, in 3 years, the mother bush can grow so that 3-4 new ones can turn out of it.

The peculiarity of astilbe is that it gradually grows up with a rhizome. In this case, young buds and shoots may be at a height of 3-5 cm above the soil level. In order for the rhizome and young shoots to sprout young roots and receive sufficient nutrition, spud the plant as it grows and divide the overgrown bushes in time.

Reproduction of astilba cuttings

Astilba cuttings are small young rosettes with several leaves. They can be carefully separated with a part of the rhizome and planted for rooting in a greenhouse or covered with a jar (cut plastic bottle) to create a microclimate with high humidity.

It also sometimes happens that one of the outlets comes off the mother bush. You can try to root it by placing it in a moist substrate and placing it in a greenhouse or under a cap (jar). Powder the base of the shoot with rooting powder before planting.

Reproduction of astilbe by seeds

Seeds in an ornamental garden usually do not have time to mature, but if you leave the inflorescences until spring, while tying bags on them, then there is a chance of getting seeds suitable for germination. They can be sown in the garden in the spring of the same year, lightly sprinkled with sand and covered nonwoven fabric before emergence.

In the future, seedlings should be regularly watered and weeded, and after about a year, young plants should be planted.

You can also sow seeds for seedlings in late February - early March. The resulting seedlings can be planted by the summer of this year.

astilba bloom

The shape of the inflorescences is in the form of a pyramid, rhombus and drooping panicles.

flowering period various kinds and varieties of astilba lasts from June to the end of August.

When the plant blooms (flowering period), flower shape

By flowering, early, middle and late varieties are distinguished. The flowers are very small, from which the inflorescences seem very light, openwork and fluffy. Astilbes are also very diverse in color. They are white, cream, various shades from light pink to dark burgundy. Quite rare red astilba.

In the neighborhood of astilbes, you can plant hellebore, euphorbia, geyher, gout, aquilegia, junipers, yews.

The astilba has relatively few enemies. It can be affected by some nematodes and slobber pennitsa. The latter is able to release a foam similar to saliva onto the plant. In this foam, its leafhopper larvae develop. From this, the leaves become covered with yellow spots and wrinkle. With severe damage, the plant may die. The fight is carried out by treating the ground parts with a systemic insecticide.

The gall nematode forms growths (galls) on the roots of the plant. Actually, the pest lives in the galls. Affected plants are inhibited in development and growth.

Strawberry nematode settles on the leaves, flowers and buds of plants. In these parts, the plant becomes covered with necrotic spots, and growth slows down.

From nematodes, insectoacaricides are used - preparations of enteric-contact action. It is better to remove plants heavily infected with gall nematode with a clod of earth, and disinfect the soil around.

Popular species (varieties)

In total, there are more than 200 species and varieties of astilba. Consider the most popular, most often used in landscaping.

Astilbe Anders (Astilbe×Andersii)- a rather large species with dark green foliage, varieties have a different color of inflorescences. Plants 50-100 cm high. Flowering period - from July to August. The most numerous species in terms of varietal composition.

Varieties of astilba Anders:

• "Bergkristall" - foliage is bright green, inflorescences are white with a yellow tinge;
• "Amethyst" - red-brown leaves, purple inflorescences;
• "Gloria" - with pink inflorescences;
• "Pomegranate" - a variety with dark burgundy foliage and inflorescences;
• "Spinel" - a variety with salmon-red inflorescences that retain color after flowering (used as a dried flower);
• 'Weiss Pearl' has creamy white flowers.

Astilbe Chinese (Astilbe chinensis). The leaves are bipinnate, pubescent along the edge and along the veins. Flowers are pink, white or purple.

Varieties of astilbe Chinese:

• "Alive and Kicking" - a Dutch variety, plant height up to 1 m, pyramidal inflorescences, dark ose, loose;
• astilba David - tall variety _up to 2 m;
• undersized variety (var.Pumila) - 10-15 cm high.

Astilbe Korean (Astilbe koreana)- height about 60 cm, inflorescences slightly drooping, white, leaves covered with brown hairs.

Astilbe Japanese (Astilbe japonica). It has diamond-shaped inflorescences of various colors. Height - 60-80 cm. Varieties:

• "Europe" - light pink inflorescences;
• "Dusseldorf" - dark pink inflorescences;
• "Montgomery" - dark red inflorescences (rather rare red astilba).

Astilbe Thunberg (Astilbe thunbergii)- reaches 100 cm or more, broad-pyramidal inflorescences, compound leaves, double-pinnate, with brown hairs. Varieties:

• "Professor van der Wilen" - with white inflorescences;
• "Strausenfeder" - with pink inflorescences.

Attention! Astilba also bears the trivial (folk) name "false spirea", or shrubby. These two plants should not be confused. Astilbe is an exclusively herbaceous plant, and spirea is a shrub. True, astilba inflorescences are similar to the pyramidal inflorescences of Billard's spirea, but this is absolutely different plants. You can plant them side by side - they will harmoniously complement each other in one landing. In this case, it is better to place the spirea closer to the open sun.

As you have already seen, astilba is not so demanding to care for, but it looks very impressive in the garden. Feel free to include it in landings and enjoy the beauty.

Answers to questions from readers

At proper care astilba is very durable - in one place without rejuvenation, it can grow 10 and more years. Observe simple rules regular care.

Why doesn't the flower bloom?

The lack of flowering in astilba may be due to very poor soil or damage. flower buds(escapes). Perhaps there was freezing. Bring fertile soil under the bush, raising its level; in season - mineral fertilizer and be patient - already on next year she will delight you with lush flowering.

Why astilba grows poorly

Irregular watering, pest damage can delay plant growth. The diseases and pests that are dangerous for astilba are described above. Analyze the condition of the instance and make a decision: it may need to be treated or replaced with a new plant.

Why do astilba leaves curl?

During dry periods, the tips of astilba leaves can dry out and curl. Can support plants more frequent watering during morning and evening hours.

It is also possible that there are pests on the plant (pennitsa). Examine the leaves. Treat with insecticide if necessary.

Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry)?

Leaf yellowing may be due to nutritional deficiencies or seasonal changes (autumn). Check if the stem is too bare. If so, mulch the sezhey plant soil mixture and water abundantly.

Flower care in winter

In areas with a harsh climate, astilba can be covered with spruce branches or fallen leaves for the winter. In the spring, the shelter is removed.

• Type: saxifrage
• Flowering period: June July August
• Height: 8-200cm
• Color: pink, burgundy, lilac, white
• perennial
• hibernates
• Shade-loving
• moisture-loving

Herbaceous perennial astilba is very much appreciated experienced flower growers and novice lovers for their lush flowering. And its name, which arose from the merger of the two words "a" and "stilbe", is a vivid confirmation of this, in Greek, denoting the expression "very brilliant." Spreading bushes look unusually impressive even after flowering - dissected green leaves remain attractive throughout the garden season. When planning to start this unusual perennial on your own, it is important to know how to properly plant and care for astilba. Knowing the subtleties and nuances in caring for this unpretentious culture, you can create beautiful plant compositions.

Astilbe in natural conditions grows in deciduous forests North America and East Asia, which are characterized by a humid climate.

Astilbe is a favorite of shady gardens, decorated with spectacular inflorescences collected from many openwork flowers of lilac, lilac, pink and snow-white shades.

The plant has erect thin stems, the height of which, depending on the species, can reach one and a half meters or more.

The woody rhizome of the plant annually forms new buds, from which stems grow in spring, and die off with the onset of cold weather. The annual growth of the rhizome itself is about 5 cm. In the fall, each time the roots that have developed and exposed over the summer are sprinkled with fertile soil.

Perennial stems are decorated with graceful feathery, dissected or long-leaved dark green leaves. And the picture is completed by the apical inflorescences of a pyramidal, paniculate or diamond-shaped form, pleasing with flowering in the season for 25-40 days. After flowering, flowers collected in panicles form fruit-boxes filled with small seeds.

IN landscape design astilba has been used since the beginning of the 20th century. Thanks to the variety of shapes and the rich color palette of inflorescences, designers use it to bring the most daring ideas to life.

Astilbe bushes look appropriate against the backdrop of picturesque alpine slides or group plantings of conifers with their rich green needle-like foliage

Astilba landscaping is often included in the design of artificial reservoirs, planting a perennial as a source frame. A worthy addition to a picturesque corner can be bells,.

It looks harmonious in flower arrangements. A good neighborhood can be obtained by planting shade-loving ferns and astilba next to. Dwarf varieties of this beautifully flowering perennial are a real decoration of a small shady flower garden. In the spring, while the leaves have not yet blossomed on the astilba, the empty space around it in the flower garden can be filled with miniature crocuses and snowdrops.

Plants with large dense leaves help to balance the openwork perennial foliage: hosta, rogersia, bergenia, cuff, kupena, lilies of the valley, hellebore

One of the reasons for the popularity of astilba is its ability to get along in the shade of trees. Feeling comfortable even in shading conditions, she never ceases to delight with colorful flowering. When cut, exquisite astilbe inflorescences are used in arranging bouquets and creating flower arrangements.

Popular varieties of astilba

In ornamental gardening, there are about two hundred varieties of astilba, created on the basis of a dozen species. The most popular hybrid groups are: Japanese astilba, Arendsa, simple-leaved and Chinese.

Japonica Hybrida

Hybrids of the Japanese astilba have a height of 40-80 cm. The stems are decorated with foliage with a pronounced ornament, the color of which ranges from pale green to reddish-brown. Dense diamond-shaped inflorescences are painted in crimson, red and white shades.

The most famous varieties: "Montgomery" with burgundy inflorescences, "Rheinland" with pink-salmon panicles, "Deutschland" with white airy inflorescences

Dense inflorescences of plants of this group bloom much earlier than other varieties. Even after drying, they retain their decorative effect, decorating the flower garden until the onset of winter.

Arendsii Hybrida

The species is named after its creator, breeder G. Arends, and is represented by 40 varieties. The height of medium-sized crops reaches 0.6-1 m. The stems are decorated with dark green foliage with a burgundy edging, which has a spherical or conical shape, and spectacular inflorescences of cream, yellow and pink shades.

Stilbe simplicifolia

The simple-leaved astilbe does not tolerate arid climates well. It is distinguished by pale green undivided leaves with a glossy surface and unusual pyramidal inflorescences resembling drooping panicles.

Most beautiful varieties of this group: "Bronze Elegans" with pale bronze inflorescences, "Straussenfeder" with bright coral flowers, "Praecox Alba" with lush white "candles"

Astilbe Chinensis

Chinese astilbe has a powerful rhizome, which, as it grows, displaces neighboring plants. Perennial stems, whose height does not exceed 110 cm, are decorated with openwork foliage, framed by thin golden hairs, and dense inflorescences of white, lilac and pink flowers.

The most beautiful varieties are considered: "Vision in Red" with bronze-green foliage and purple-red flowers, "Vision in Pink" with blue-green foliage and light pink panicles, "Purpurlanze" with purple flowers on reddish stems

For decoration suburban areas it is better to choose medium-sized varieties of culture. They are more resistant to adverse climatic conditions.

Numerous cultural varieties are conventionally divided into:

• Dwarf - up to 30 cm high.
• Undersized - up to 60 cm.
• Medium height - up to 90 cm.
• Tall - up to one and a half meters.

Different varieties of this perennial differ in terms of flowering: the early ones delight with flowering already in early June, medium-sized hybrids arrange bright accents in the middle of summer, and late-flowering ones decorate the garden with colorful "torches" towards the end of the season.

Perennial propagation methods

In one place, the shrub can grow up to five years, after which it must be rejuvenated. The perennial is propagated in early spring, and late autumn using the vegetative or seed method for this.

Method #1 - Vegetative

This method involves dividing the rhizome into 2-3 parts, each of which has a faded stem with a dormant bud. When propagated by vegetative means, astilbes can be planted at any time. The main thing is to provide a sufficient amount of moisture in the first days after transplantation.

Bushes take root well during the flowering period, subject to the same humidity regime.

With the vegetative method, the lignified rhizome is dug out of the ground, washed in water and cut into several sections using a pruner or shovel.

The rhizome should be divided in such a way that in each cut off plot there are 2-3 replacement buds at the base, from which young shoots will then go.

The size of the plot is not significant; a 3-5 cm long rhizome section will suffice. They are planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The next season, the planted plots are actively growing and blooming lush panicles.

Method # 2 - seed

This method is quite laborious, but it allows you to display new growth. Seeds are collected from plants in early September, carefully cutting off inflorescences with boxes. They are laid out on paper and left in a warm place for two weeks. To get the smallest peas, just shake the dried panicles. harvested seeds put in a bag and leave until spring.

When growing astilbe from seeds planting material sown in February - March in containers filled with a mixture of peat and sand, taken in a ratio of 3: 1.

Astilbe seeds are very small and germinate rather slowly, so it is advisable to stratify them beforehand.

Seeds are scattered on the surface of moistened soil and covered with glass or plastic wrap. At this stage, it is important to observe the humidity regime, not allowing the soil to dry out. Some flower growers recommend using "snow" from the freezer for this, which, as it melts, will gradually moisten the soil.

The first shoots appear after 3-4 weeks, but only by the end of the season do they form small rosettes of leaves. Tender seedlings should be watered very carefully, directing thin streams of water to the very root.

If the young bushes in the greenhouse do not crowd each other, they can not be disturbed until next spring. Bushes grown from seeds will delight in flowering in the third year of planting.

Astilba landing rules

This crop grows best on loose and slightly acidic soils. It is possible to lower the acidity to the required level within the range of 5.5-6.5 pH by introducing wood ash or dolomite flour during digging.

Astilba prefers shaded areas located at a small distance from the spreading crowns of trees. The best option is a sparse shadow.

When choosing a place, you should focus on the timing of flowering. Early and late varieties can be placed both in open areas and in partial shade. Medium-flowering plants are best planted in shady corners, since the scorching July sun significantly reduces their flowering time.

Astilbes are naturally hygrophilous. Most varieties feel comfortable on swampy soils, calmly enduring stagnant water.

The planting hole is half filled with humus, which is thoroughly mixed with the soil. It would also be useful to introduce organic fertilizers, taking them at the rate of 2 buckets of manure per 1 sq.m. fertilizers. The enriched land is watered. After waiting until it is completely absorbed, the plant is planted and sprinkled with earth in such a way that the layer thickness above the replacement buds is about 4 cm. The soil around the stem is compacted and watered again to prevent the formation of air niches in the soil.

To minimize the care of this flowering crop, it is enough to follow a number of simple recommendations:

• Feed during the growing season complex fertilizers. It is possible to provide the root-inhabited layer of soil with the necessary volume of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus when digging in the spring, adding at the rate of 30g / sq.m. In mid-July, they are fed with potassium nitrate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and the last top dressing after flowering is completed - with superphosphate, distributing it at 20 g per bush.
• Implement timely watering. moisture loving plant does not tolerate long-term drought. On hot summer days, it needs to be watered up to twice a day. The culture especially needs enhanced watering during the formation of inflorescences. Watering astilba is better early morning and after sunset.
• Mulch the soil. Mulching the planting area with wood bark or shavings will help keep the soil loose and reduce moisture loss. The mulch will prevent the ground from overheating in the summer and freezing of the roots during the winter months.
• Rejuvenate the bush every five years. The ability of the rhizome of the plant to quickly increase the mass requires periodic rejuvenation of the bush. At the end of each season, bare rhizomes must be sprinkled with fresh soil. Otherwise, young shoots bulging out with old roots become bare and dry out, which, in turn, negatively affects the quality and duration of flowering.
• Fight pests. The nematode and slobber pennitsa are the main pests of the plant. They infect the leaves and rhizomes of the plant, provoking its wilting and death. You can get rid of the nematode only by completely destroying the affected specimen. It's a little easier with penny. You can try to destroy its larvae mechanically, without injuring the roots and stems, or using garden chemicals: confidor, aktara, karbofos.
• After flowering, cut off the flower stalks. But some gardeners, on the contrary, leave dried flower stalks uncut so that they decorate the spring garden for as long as possible.
• Cover the plant for the winter. In winters with little snow, the bulk of the varieties of this beautifully flowering crop freeze slightly. To prevent this, before the onset of cold weather, the stems are cut to ground level, the bare roots are mulched with peat and covered with spruce branches.

In the future, a stronger plant will fight weeds on its own - its powerful roots do an excellent job with this task.

Weeding this moisture-loving beauty is necessary only at the beginning of its growth at the stage of growing rhizomes and green mass

Finally, we offer you to watch an interesting video about autumn pruning astilbe:

Astilbe (lat. Astilbe)- a representative of the genus of herbaceous perennials of the Saxifrage family, uniting, according to various evidences, from 18 to 40 species. “A” - without, “stilbe” - shine, that is, Lord Hamilton, a botanist from Scotland, who gave the name to the plant, meant that astilbe leaves are dull, dull, without shine. Astilbe is native to East Asia, North America and the Japanese Islands. It grows in broad-leaved forests, along the banks of streams, in places where it is humid in summer. To Europe from Japan, astilba at the end of the XVIII or early XIX centuries brought by hunters for outlandish plants Karl Thunberg and von Siebold, and since then it has been a favorite of all shady gardens.

Listen to article

Planting and caring for astilba (in brief)

• Landing: May June.
• Bloom: end of June-August.
• Lighting: penumbra or shade.
• The soil: moist loam with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
• Watering: frequent and plentiful, in the heat - 2 times a day.
• Hilling: regular.
• Top dressing: in spring, when hilling, apply humus, in mid-June - potash fertilizers, before flowering is completed - phosphorus.
• Reproduction: seed, vegetative - dividing the bush, separating the rhizome with a kidney without digging the bush.
• Pests: slobbering pennitsy, gall and strawberry nematodes.
• Diseases: root rot, bacterial spot, phytoplasma and viral diseases.

Read more about growing astilba below.

Astilba flower - description

Astilbe is a rhizomatous plant, the aerial part of which dies off for the winter. Astilba stems are erect, from 8 cm to 2 m high, depending on the species or variety. The leaves are long-petiolate, sometimes simple, sometimes twice or thrice pinnate, serrated. Color is dark green or reddish green. The rhizome of astilba is woody and, depending on the species, loose or dense. Every year, new buds form in the upper part of the rhizome, while the lower part gradually dies off. The annual vertical growth is approximately 3-5 cm, therefore, before winter, fertile soil is added to the exposed rhizome.

Astilba flowers are apical inflorescences of small openwork flowers of white, red, lilac, pink, lilac shades blooming in June-July-August. Inflorescences are paniculate, rhombic and pyramidal. Very beautiful species with drooping inflorescences. Astilbe fruit is a box. According to the timing of flowering, astilbes are early (late June-early July), medium (July), and late (August).

Astilbes breed vegetatively (dividing the bush and separating the rhizome with a kidney) and seeds. And although inexperienced flower growers prefer vegetative methods, we will tell you how to grow astilbe from seeds, because it is the seed method of reproduction that allows you to engage in breeding and get new varieties. Astilba seeds are sown in March: a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) is placed in a wide container 15 cm high, and a layer of snow 1 cm thick is placed on top (in a snowless winter you can scrape snow in the freezer), over which the seeds are scattered. Melting snow, moistening the soil, immerses the seeds in it.

After the snow melts, place the container in a transparent bag and refrigerate for twenty days (this is called stratification) until germination, and then transfer to a bright, warm (18-22 ºC) place. Be careful with watering, otherwise you will destroy the seedlings: water under the root or inject water into the soil with a syringe. When the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, they dive into small pots to plant in the ground. When to plant astilbe from seedlings, we will cover in the next section.

In the photo: Astilbe seed size against the background of a coin

Astilbe planting

Growing and caring for astilbe does not involve any particular difficulties, so let's start with the main thing: astilba is planted in May-June from north side at home, in the shade of trees or bushes, although some varieties can adapt to a more sunny place and will bloom more abundantly, but for a shorter duration. If there is a fountain or a pool nearby, it is generally ideal. The soil is preferably loamy, with a high occurrence ground water. The optimal acidity is pH 5.5-6.5. Astilba in the garden perfectly coexists with hostas: host leaves retain soil moisture and prevent it from overheating in the heat.

In the photo: Planting an astilba tuber in the ground

Planting astilba in spring preceded by digging the site and removing the rhizomes of weeds and other plants, followed by fertilizing the flower bed with compost, rotted manure or rotted peat at the rate of 2 buckets of fertilizer per 1 m 2. Before planting astilba, prepare holes 20-30 cm deep and wide at a distance of 30 cm from each other and throw half a glass of ash and 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer into each, then water well. Place the seedlings, or rather, the astilbe root, so that the soil layer above the growth buds is at least 4-5 cm. Cover it with earth, compact it and mulch the planting with a layer of humus or peat 3-5 cm thick.

astilbe care

The main feature of astilba- the growth of the rhizome upwards and the gradual death of its lower part. That is, over time, the root system is without nutrition, so the hilling of astilba is of particular importance.

Do not let the soil dry out: timely watering is one of the mandatory rules, which includes caring for astilba.

In addition, mulching will allow you not only to protect the root system from overheating, but also to keep the soil moist longer, and also get rid of weeds and the need to frequently loosen the soil. Astilba's water requirement is medium to high depending on the species and variety, but all varieties need regular and abundant watering during the formation of inflorescences. In severe drought water the astilba twice a day - early in the morning and in the evening.

In the photo: How to properly plant astilbe tubers in open ground

Without a transplant, astilba can grow for 5-7 years, but if you take care of it carefully and fertilize it on time, then its lifespan in the same area can last up to twenty years. Astilba is being fed in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers (introduction of humus during hilling), in mid-June - potash (half a liter per bush of a solution of 2 tablespoons of potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water), and before the end of flowering - phosphorus (20 g superphosphate per bush). After top dressing, the soil is loosened and mulched again.

Astilbe, like many other introduced plants, left its specific "enemies" in the places of origin. In our latitudes, it is sometimes struck by slobbering pennitsa and two nematodes - strawberry and gall. pennitsa settles in the axils of the leaves and forms foamy saliva-like secretions, inside which live leafhopper larvae. The more pennits, the more the leaves wrinkle, becoming covered with yellow spots. As a result, the plant withers partially or completely. You can get rid of slobbering pennitsa by treating plants with Confidor, Rogor, Karbofos or Aktara.

In the photo: Astilbe flowering in a flower bed

Astilba after flowering

When the astilba fades and the flower stalks begin to dry out, do not rush to cut them off, because even in a semi-dry form, the spectacular astilbe inflorescences will decorate your garden. But at the end of the season, when you have to put things in order in the flower garden before winter rest, the astilba stems need to be cut flush with the ground, and the area should be mulched. Especially if before that you planted astilba by rhizome division. This is done in order to rejuvenate the astilba, because when the root becomes woody, it will be difficult to separate it. Therefore, in early autumn, the rhizomes are divided so that each division has a growth bud, then on next year As a rule, the transplanted astilba is already blooming.

In the photo: Astilba has faded

It is only necessary to mulch the site, and it would be good to throw spruce branches on freshly transplanted rhizomes to protect new plants from winter frost and be sure that astilba will not die in the spring from a sharp temperature drop.

Types and varieties of astilba

The culture uses 10-12 plant species, which, as a result of selection, gave a lot hybrid varieties. Today, the number of varieties has reached two hundred. The most popular hybrid groups are Arends hybrids (Arendsii Hybrida), Japanese hybrids (Japonica Hybrida), Chinese astilbe (Astilbe Chinensis) and its varieties, as well as simple-leaved astilbe (Astilbe simplicifolia).

In the photo: Blooming white astilba in the garden

Astilba Arendsa (Astilbe x arendsii)

It is represented by forty varieties, which are the result of crossing the base species - Astilba David - with other species. These are powerful, sprawling, tall bushes (up to 100 cm) of spherical or pyramidal shape with dark green leaves and terminal inflorescences of white, lilac, red and pink flowers. Blooms longer than other species for 30-40 days from July to August. Cultivated since 1907, but the best varieties were created by G. Arends.

Popular varieties are: astilba Gloria, Diamant, Weiss Gloria, Ruby, Glut and others. Amethyst, Weiss Gloria and Ruby reach 80 cm in height, Diamant - 90 cm. But if Diamant, Glut and Rubin have panicled inflorescences, then Gloria and Weiss Gloria have diamond-shaped inflorescences.

In the photo: Astilba Arendsa (Astilbe x arendsii)

Astilbe Chinese (Astilbe chinensis)

The plant is up to 1-1.1 m high, the basal leaves are large, long-petiolate, the stem leaves are smaller, on short petioles, shiny and openwork. Inflorescences are dense, 30-35 cm long, flowers are small, usually lilac color, but there are varieties with pink and white flowers. Cultivated by flower growers since 1859, has undersized forms (var. pumila hort.) from 15 cm to 25 cm and forms with cone-shaped inflorescences var. Taquetii. Astilbes of this species grow well in sunny areas.

Last year, visiting a friend, I saw a beauty white astilba. In general, I really like perennials, especially flowering ones, so I decided to get myself such a miracle. Tell me how to plant astilbe in the spring?

Astilba can be found in flowerbeds quite often, because this unpretentious perennial from the Saxifrage family has a very beautiful view thanks to the amazing shape of carved green leaves with a red tint and a serrated edge. And when its lush inflorescences, consisting of small flowers of very different colors, bloom, the plant serves as a decoration for the site all summer. At the same time, some varieties can reach up to 2 m in height and look good when planted along the fence or in the background.

Growing astilba is not difficult, because the plant does not require special conditions for growth and care. It is enough to choose the right habitat for it, and soon the perennial will begin to actively grow roots and green mass.

It is noteworthy that the plant annually forms new buds in the upper part of the root system, while the lower one dies off.

Astilba should be planted in holes, leaving a distance between them of at least 30 cm. For tall specimens, more space will be needed - up to 50 cm. Immediately before planting, add wood ash (0.5 tbsp.) And mineral complex fertilizers (1 tbsp. l.).

After planting, the bushes should be covered with mulch - it will help moisture stay in the ground longer, and it will also reliably protect astilbe from frost during wintering.

Cultivation of astilba - video

This perennial culture grows beautifully and decorates with its unusual flowers shady garden. In this article, we will figure out how to plant and care for astilba in the open field. By following the simple rules of agricultural technology, you can achieve an excellent result in growing this plant.

Description of the plant - varieties and varieties

Astilba is a rhizomatous perennial of the saxifrage family. In summer, curly bushes with lovely inflorescences are very decorative; in winter, the herbaceous aerial part of the plant dies off. Different varieties of plants have different heights - from 8 cm to 2 m. Astilbe leaves are pinnate, complexly dissected, green or brownish in color. There are varieties with white, pink and lilac flowers.

Astilba has many shades

Astilba flowering begins in early summer and lasts for about a month. During this period, the plant is most decorative. Astilbes with curly inflorescences - panicles - serve as a wonderful decoration for park areas, gardens, squares and are often used to decorate areas in landscape design.

The culture is highly resistant to winter period: rhizomes withstand wintering at temperatures up to -37 ° C without the threat of freezing.

Important! When grown outdoors, astilba prefers moist, nutrient soil and uniform periodic watering. Subject to this condition, caring for a flower crop does not present any particular difficulties.

Distribution areas of natural astilba species

In nature, the plant is found in Japan, America and East Asia. In Russia, the range of the plant is Far East, where there are 2 types of astilba natural varieties.

All modern cultivated varieties flower culture belong to the species - astilba Arends. Medium-sized and tall forms of the plant bloom bright inflorescences pink or white flowers with numerous transitions and shades.

Astilbe in landscape design

In landscape design, astilbe hybrid cultivars are widely used. During flowering, the bushes form air curtains of pink or purple hues. Plants are characterized by compact size and abundant flowering. Planting astilba hybrid in groups with other species allows you to perfectly shade lawns during flowering and coniferous crops. The combination of plants with different color tones enlivens the areas of park plantings.

An interesting view of Astilbe Thunberg, which has drooping brushes of yellowish or pink flowers that are not characteristic of the species.

Early-flowering astilbes of a wide range of colors of white and pink tones belong to the species "Japanese Astilba". This type of astilba is highly decorative.

Astilba: planting and care

When planting plants great importance has the quality of planting material. In order for the survival rate of plants to be one hundred percent, it is worth considering some requirements for rhizomes intended for planting.

Astilbe planting

Important! Astilbe rhizomes should not have dead, rotten parts. Overdrying or excessive wetting of planting material during storage is not allowed. Young shoots should not be elongated, bent and crumpled.

Of course, specimens with elongated sprouts can also take root, but then the plant can lose its decorative effect and get sick for a long time.

Choosing a comfortable place for a flower

It should be remembered that astilbe is a plant for partial shade, bright sunlight is detrimental to it. It is undesirable to plant a flower culture on open, unprotected from sunlight spaces.

In addition, flowers do not respond well to areas with high level groundwater and stagnant water. This leads to wetting and decay of the rhizomes. Growing a crop in such areas will not do without a reliable drainage device. And if it is not possible to equip it, you need to choose a higher place for planting.

Planting astilba in open ground: determine the size of the pits

The depth of the planting pit is required to be provided individually for each plant, taking into account the size of the rhizome. root system astilba should be freely placed in landing pit, while deepening the bush or filling the growing point with soil is not allowed. Hydrogel can be added to the bottom of the pits, it will help maintain soil moisture; as well as bone meal, ash and mineral fertilizers - 1 matchbox each.

Astilba should be planted in well-moistened soil.

It is allowed to mulch the surface of the earth with bark or peat chips, which will keep the soil evenly moist, and in the future - will protect the roots of the plant from drying out.

plant care

Astilba bushes grow about 3-5 cm in height per year. Plant care measures are reduced to adding soil under the exposed parts of the rhizome. fertile soil added in a layer of 2-3 cm.

Planting care requires maintaining soil moisture. To do this, add a mulch layer (peat, bark, expanded clay or landscape gravel) on top planting soil. In winter, mulch on the ground surface helps protect tender rhizomes from freezing.

The combination of uniform watering and keeping the soil moist is the key to plant health and lush flowering.

Astilbe care is very simple.

The decorativeness of the plant is maintained by periodic pruning of dead stems. It is necessary to regularly remove faded inflorescences from the bushes, this is especially true when using astilba in landscape design when decorating territories.

Fertilizer and top dressing

The application of fertilizers under astilba bushes during planting has already been mentioned above.

For the full development of the plant, it is necessary to carry out regular feeding complex fertilizers. Considering that astilba can grow in one place without transplanting and dividing rhizomes for more than 5 years, plants should be fed with nitrogen fertilizers from the beginning of spring. This helps the rapid growth of new foliage on overwintered bushes.

Do not forget to feed astilba with mineral fertilizers

During flowering, the crop needs to be fertilized with phosphorus, and by the end of flowering - with potash fertilizers. This will help increase the timing and splendor of flowering, and also stimulates the formation of full-fledged seeds.

Plant propagation

Reproduction by seeds

To preserve the decorativeness and varietal characteristics of the plant, perennial propagation by seeds is not accepted. Crops grown from seeds often do not correspond to the declared varietal characteristics:

• have a changed color;
• sparse flower brushes;
• low decorative effect;
• short flowering periods.

For seed propagation, only high-quality seeds of varietal selection can be used.

astilbe seed sprouts

The seeds of the plant are sown on the surface of moistened soil, without covering. For accelerated germination support high humidity(you can cover the crops with glass or keep them in a greenhouse). Growing astilbe seedlings comes down to timely watering of seedlings. At this time, it is especially dangerous to overdry young plants. They need to be protected from direct sunlight, providing a bright place without access to scorching rays.

Excellent results in increasing germination are achieved by performing preliminary seed stratification. This cultural practice consists of placing the seeds in a cold place (from +4°C to -4°C) for 3 weeks. Hardened seeds are sown in greenhouses and kept at a temperature of + 20°C. Young plants in 2-3 months after sowing can be planted in a permanent place in the open field. Seedlings obtained from stratified seeds are distinguished by excellent survival and rapid growth.

Reproduction of astilba by dividing the bush

The vegetative method of propagation of astilba (dividing a bush) is the most reliable and familiar to flower growers. mother plant dig out with care, trying not to damage the tender rhizome. With a sharp knife, the rhizome is divided into parts with 2-3 buds. Slices are sprinkled with crushed coal.

The division of the astilba bush

Planting material is laid out in the prepared furrow and the soil is moistened. Excellent results when planting delenok are achieved with the use of root stimulants. Care for young plants includes regular watering and loosening the soil.

Planting of astilba delenok can be carried out in early spring, already in March. With this method of reproduction, the first flowering of young plants will begin in early autumn.

Division by the kidneys

Perennial reproduction is carried out in another way, which is considered the fastest - by bud division. In the spring, with the beginning of the vegetation of the plant, the renewal buds are separated with a sharp knife. The cuttings are planted in a greenhouse with moist soil mixed with coarse sand or gravel, after dusting the cut points with ash. With this method of reproduction, a very high survival rate of young plants is noted. The only drawback is that getting a full-fledged plant stretches for almost a year.

Diseases and pests

Keep your plants healthy. If pests appear, immediately start fighting them.

Astilba attracts not only with its decorative effect, the plant is practically not damaged by pests and diseases. The rhizomes of some crops can occasionally be affected by root-knot nematodes. The pest does not respond to the use of drugs, so the fight against the nematode is reduced to the destruction of diseased bushes. In this case, it is also necessary to remove part of the soil that was in contact with the roots of the diseased plant. It is advisable not to plant a crop at this place for several years.

Another pest that can threaten the plant in the open field is the slobber penny. The affected plant feels oppressed, the development of the leaf mass slows down. Prevention measures - collecting the pest from the leaves of the plant by hand.

Astilbe: combination with other plants

Growing astilba in group plantings with other plants is quite justified. Decorative panicles plants look great near conifers with their monotonous greenery. Such a neighborhood is very preferable for astilba: the conifers provide protection from the sun to the bushes.

The combination of astilbe of different colors in landscape design

Astilbe bushes are in perfect harmony with late tulips, irises, hostas, periwinkle. Single landings astilbes on a green lawn in the shade are very decorative.

In landscape design, when planting in the shade, astilba bushes fit perfectly. The plant is used for single and group plantings, creating complex landscape solutions for shady and semi-shady places. Care ornamental plants does not constitute absolutely no difficulties and consists in timely watering.

How to plant astilba: video

Astilba: photo