Steel bath - the most cheap option, with proper installation and additional processing according to their performance in no way inferior to more expensive counterparts. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs - long time heat is retained. But in order to warm up cast iron, you need a lot of hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. In addition, at the time of acceptance water procedures the water still cools, the heat escapes through large area unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this drawback, if desired, the performance of an ordinary steel bath can be brought to high standards.

An important point, the right choice simplifies installation and increases the comfort of use.

By what criteria are bathtubs classified?

Parameter	Meaning and tips for choosing
	105x70, 120x70, 130x70, 140x70, 150x70, 160x70, 170x70, 170x75, 180x80. Choose the length and width of the bath, taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to keep the product as close as possible to opposite walls, this will greatly simplify the installation process.
	110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. The volume directly depends on the depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a large bath, it is difficult to enter and exit it. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, the more water, the longer the comfortable temperature is maintained.
	Bolted or double sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers, bolting is more reliable, in most cases it does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Tape feet - a budget option, is not stable. Legs can help to level the plane of the bathtub horizontally; installation on brick linings is recommended to increase the reliability of fixation.
	All steel bathtubs are covered with enamel. But the quality of coverage is different. Domestic producers cover the worst. Insufficient enamel thickness and poor quality composition in terms of indicators physical strength reduce the service life. As a result, the need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replace it.

Approach the choice of the size of the bath responsibly, take into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor-quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.

1. Run your hand across the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or "sea waves" indicate a violation of the annealing regimes. Such a coating will quickly get dirty, requires constant cleaning.
2. Examine the cover from various angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade changes white color.
3. Pay attention to the area of ​​the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not go away completely, it always remains near the drain. a large number of. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, over time it acquires a yellow tint.

Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive goods, you do not need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will eventually bring losses, purchase products only from well-known, time-tested and numerous buyers manufacturers.

steel bath

Site preparation

At the installation site of the bathroom, there should already be sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not equal to 90°, then this drawback must be taken into account during the installation of the bath.

The floor covering must be horizontal.

Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bath will be installed evenly, but there may be problems with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathroom, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall, and the leaks are insignificant, then a fungus will definitely appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bath, make a complex special events and install the bath again. Minor leaks can occur for various reasons, it is impossible to completely guarantee their absence. If the water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the causes are eliminated in a timely manner and Negative consequences minimal.

Siphon and overflow installation

These elements must be mounted before installing the bath in place. According to their device and connection technology, all systems are the same, the difference is only in price and material of manufacture.

Step 1. Turn the tub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage during tipping, place cardboard or soft tissue. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process is not only significantly accelerated, but the quality of installation is also improved.

Step 2 Read the assembly instructions, check the completeness of the siphon. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not confuse the gaskets, each must be installed in its place.

Step 3 Assemble the siphon, fix it in the drain hole. Do not apply too much force, do not damage the oil seals and gaskets. To facilitate the assembly of the structure, it is recommended to use technical vaseline or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.

The upper part is attached inside the bathtub, the lower part is attached under the drain hole of the bathtub

Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bath, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bath, the water will not be able to completely leave. The remaining part, after drying, forms yellow spots on the bottom, they will often have to be removed. All cleaning products contain compounds that have a negative effect on enamel. Although their concentration is insignificant, but with repeated use, the thickness of the enamel decreases.

Step 4 Turn the tub on its side, install the gaskets in turn and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. Doing this is much easier with two people. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.

Check the tightness of the connections. It is best to do this before installing the bath in place, so it will be easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.

Leg mounting

We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed double sided tape or nuts. The first option shouldn't be a problem. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the revision of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.

Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. General recommendations it is impossible to give, each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural details to the bath.

Adjust the position of the bath using the threads on the legs, check the levelness in two directions with a level. When you find desired position, be sure to fix the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not stagger, otherwise, over time, the slope of the bath will change. In addition, there will be gaps between the wall and the bathroom. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.

And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs, their factory slope of the bottom does not provide complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners are advised to immediately increase the slope of the bottom of the bath to the side. drain hole by a few millimetres. It is imperceptible to the eye, but there will be a guarantee of the normal functioning of the drain.

Bowl insulation

A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important given the current prices for public Utilities. After the bowl is insulated, in terms of heat saving indicators, the bath significantly exceeds all expensive analogues available for sale. In addition, it does not add weight, perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds during filling with water.

How is the bowl insulated?

Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing a siphon with a weir and legs. Buy two or three bottles of mounting foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during solidification increases significantly in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume - more air bubbles, less heat loss. BUT low price due to low rates of compression force, this parameter in our case does not play any role.

Step 2 Clean the outside of the tub. If it has grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health, ensure maximum ventilation of the room. Better work for outdoors and not indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.

Step 3 After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray gun. Moisture increases the coefficient of adhesion of the foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water contributes to the optimal flow regime. chemical reactions, the foam will harden much faster.

Step 4 Shake the foam bottle thoroughly, put on a special plastic tube. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if applied in sectors from the bottom up. The foam should lie down in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. The rows are wider - not a problem, after solidification, the gaps will get better. If the surface dries out, rewet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You will get nothing but additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. It will take a long and tedious to scrape it off with a knife.

Step 5 Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, blow out the gaps.

Practical advice. If the foam falls off vertical surfaces, then turn the bath in different directions and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.

Step 6 Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath, it should not interfere with the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of screen mounting.

On this preparatory work installation completed. The bath has a siphon, legs and insulation.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

This installation completely eliminates the staggering and tipping of the bath, we strongly recommend using it.

Step 1. Put the bathtub with legs in the right place, mark their location, swipe horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjusted in height and inclination by the leg bolts.

Step 2 Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare right amount bricks. If necessary, use a bricklayer's hammer to chip off the extra parts at the required height.

Step 3 Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, give about three parts of sand, water as needed.

Step 4 Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is held. Place another two centimeters of mortar on top. The mortar should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.

Step 5 Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, shake and press it until the legs stop on the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. As soon as the legs (if any) touch the floor, installation is complete. Allow the solution time to harden (about 24 hours) and proceed with the installation of the tub.

Bath screens

With the help of screens, communications are hidden, it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further facing with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, gypsum boards, OSB or in the form of an ordinary curtain made of thick fabric. We will tell you in turn how to do each option.

Designs must necessarily provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic maintenance work to clean the system. The presence of an opening for the legs is advisable to do only when the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - country house for temporary residence. Putting an expensive washing machine in it is unprofitable and dangerous, summer residents old habit use a bath to wash clothes.

What are the frames for installing screens

Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made of metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and time-consuming, and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that it makes no sense to consider it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, the curved structure will have to be redone.

How to make a frame from metal profiles?

Step 1. Count the number of profiles.

They need three baths vertical in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in width baths. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers, for the door you need to make a separate small frame. Three jumpers are enough in length, in width you can do without them. Knowing the size of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.

Step 2 Make a markup.

Very milestone, do not rush, check the measurements several times. To improve accuracy, use a plumb line, the level of the vertical plane indicates inaccurately.

How to markup?

1. Attach the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bath, wait until it calms down. Mark the top and bottom position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bath, there may be two or three of them, depending on the size of the bath and the room. Thus, the place of docking of the screen with the walls is indicated.
2. At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing finishing materials A: drywall, OSB, MDF or adhesive and ceramic tiles.
3. Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again, do not make mistakes.

Further work depends on the material of manufacture of the frame. The best option- metal profile, but you can work with wooden slats.

Metal profile frame

Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size, as we have already described above, how to determine them. Do not deal with jumpers yet, make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2 Lay the long profile on the floor, one side must fit exactly on the marked line. Carefully mark the places for drilling the holes for the dowels with a marker. It is bad to work with a pencil, use a marker.

Step 3 Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels, the planks have perforated holes, with which you can move the element a little in different directions and achieve the exact position.

Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If it is planned to use a heavy OSB board for sheathing, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are interconnected with hardware.

Step 5 Fasten the profiles along the length and width against the upper side of the bathroom, you should get a solid frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can be vertical or horizontal.

Step 6 Decide on the size of the door for the revision of the siphon, make a small frame for it in the right place. The position of all frame elements is constantly checked by a level. Door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is staggering - add jumpers to problem areas achieve high stability.

Frame made of wooden beams

In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to the metal profile. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. There are concerns - soak it with antiseptics.

For the frame, you can use slats various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finish sheathing. Universal option you can consider the dimensions of the rails five by five centimeters. Do the markings on the floor and wall, as always. One feature - consider the width of the rails, they should go under the side shelves of the bath and not interfere with the finish. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels, the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the rails. This will allow you to safely adjust the position of the frame. Moreover, it is easy to fix possible mistakes while drilling holes for dowels.

Step 1. Place a long bar on the floor, estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It is not scary that it will be screwed to the bar not in the center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.

Step 2 Drill holes, fasten the corners with dowels and a bar to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. In the same way, install a meek bar.

Step 3 Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of about 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the tub. Fasten the segments with corners into a single structure with the bottom.

Step 4 Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing at the top of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of about 10 cm from the side, these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more close to the side. It is much easier to do this, the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure is increased.

Step 5 IN right places make a frame for the door, if used heavy materials then put some jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers at the corners.

The frame is ready, you can start the finishing sheathing, fastening is carried out with wood screws.

brick screens

In terms of time, they do not take very much time, but in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The number is calculated in this way.

1. Calculate the side and end area of ​​the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
2. Divide the resulting amount by the area of ​​​​one brick or block. Round off the number to a whole number. For a reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface must be finished with ceramic tiles, we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Lay the first row of bricks on edge, constantly check its position with a level. You need to know that the masonry on the edge has its own characteristics, if they are not observed, the wall can “float”. First feature. The mortar should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side face of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray gun. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined in a practical way. The second feature. After three rows, you need to give time to the solution to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.

The brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are overlapped with whole bricks of the upper one.

Step 2 Continue work until the entire space is closed. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is desirable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the installation of the bath. Use for this purpose any narrow improvised means, such work cannot be done with a trowel.

Important. Do not forget to leave a hole for the revision of the siphon. Check the structure, remove the remnants of the protruding solution. Allow at least a day to dry.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

If the wall already has tiles, then the work is somewhat more complicated. The fact is, you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to put a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience in cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can even out jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance, of course, will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints, their cuts fit snugly against surfaces without gaps.

Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles in stock, you won’t need more, a very small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe surface to be trimmed. Glue need to buy about 10 kg.

Step 2 Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or even rail, control several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Step 3 The tile is placed on an uneven surface, it is impossible to use a comb. Apply glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved to the left to the right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is done with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile, the cross will constantly shift the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross, you will have to pick out each one with a knife.

Step 4 No experience - use plastic elements in the corners and joints, they make the job much easier.

Step 5. You can start in about two hours. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry, dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSB boards or drywall

Finishing with tiles is much easier than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame, mark the plate. As a rule, the length of the bath exceeds the length of the plate, you will have to join. Such a probability must be foreseen even during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand should be installed at the docking point.

Cut off all blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife, for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or a jigsaw.

Step 2. Fix the elements in turn with self-tapping screws, carefully work with drywall. With great efforts to tighten the self-tapping screws, their heads fall into the gypsum, and new ones have to be screwed in.

Step 3 Screw small hinges at the door installation site. Check door functionality.

Step 4 Proceed to surface finishing. You can use ceramic tiles - long and expensive. There is an easier option - paste over the surfaces with a self-adhesive decorative film, on sale today huge selection- cheap and nice. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.

Practical advice. Don't try to stick the film right away without air pockets, it's almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove air by smoothing the pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the best. It is recommended to apply if the walls of the bathroom are finished with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from drywall OSB, not wasting time on lining.

How to make sliding doors

Very simple and functional version of the screen. For manufacturing, you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, MDF is glued to them with special glue.

Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile, we have described the algorithm for manufacturing such structures. Check the position of all elements.

Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters, the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2 Attach the rails to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Step 3 Measure the exact distance between the guides, the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, during the opening / closing of the door will wedge.

Step 4 cut out MDF boards doors of the right size. 2-3 cm is enough to overlap. You can cut the plate with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, make an emphasis from below - the hairiness of the cut will decrease.

Step 5 Remove the bevel from the cut. Use sandpaper or a circular grinder. Install handles.

There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most time-consuming. It is advisable to use it before facing the walls, if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.

Step 1. Remove a row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bath rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make the edging of the bathtub with a pattern, this will only improve the appearance.

Step 2 On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the rim of the bath, draw another line at a distance of about 2 cm. It indicates the position of the protruding side of the side.

Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along the lines about 1 cm deep.

Step 4 Spread the ends of the side with sealant, put the bath in place. The sides should enter the groove a little, remove the excess sealant.

The tiles are laid, a decorative ceramic plinth is used to match the tiles

This method fully guarantees the tightness of the junction, water will never get behind the bath.

Use any method that is not difficult for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the place where the bathtub joins the wall will be sufficient.

Video - Installation of a steel bath

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Bath installation

You can install the bath yourself, the main thing is to follow all the rules and advice of specialists. Well, and, of course, you can’t do without an assistant, since the bath itself is quite heavy and it’s more convenient to handle it together. How to properly install a bath and what is needed for this? What difficulties await you, you should know in advance.

Option one: installing a bathtub on legs

First you need to dismantle the old bath and determine the method of outflow and water supply.

If it is installed in the same place, then nothing needs to be changed. Otherwise, additional hoses or pipes must be purchased.

But in order to calculate correctly, you must first be in place. If the legs of the bathtub can be adjusted in height, then you need to determine the maximum low and high position of the bathtub.

Step by step job description:

1. Make a marking at the installation site, lay the bathtub on its side and connect the floor siphon with outlet and overflow.
2. To seal the drain joint, rubber gaskets are installed at the top and bottom.
3. Now you need to connect a floor-type hydraulic siphon.
4. If the bath is to be connected to a steel pipeline, then at this stage of the installation of the siphon, one end of the equalizer must be connected electrical potentials.
5. After that, you need to fix the overflow through the gaskets with a connection to the overflow pipe.
6. The next step is to attach the legs to the bottom of the tub.
7. Withdrawal from sewer pipe connected to the siphon.
8. Having installed the bath in place, you need to level it. In order to check the correct installation, simply pour some water into the bath and see if all the water goes into the siphon.
9. Now put the rubber sealing ring on the outlet of the sewer pipe and fix it well in the socket.
10. Upon completion of all work, connect the second end of the electrical potential equalizer to ground. By the way, only hot tubs require mandatory grounding - in other cases it is a matter of choice.

In order to prevent water from seeping between the bathroom and the wall, it is necessary to make a silicone gasket that can be tiled. This will not only provide protection against leakage, but also make the installation more durable.

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Option two: "grandfather" method

In fact, there is nothing complicated in installing a bathtub, but there are doubts about the reliability of installing a bathtub on legs.

1. Firstly, you need to screw them very carefully so that, by pulling, you do not damage the bath itself.
2. Secondly, over time, the legs can rot, since the bathroom is a room with high humidity.

That is why many use the proven and reliable "grandfather" method, when the bath is simply installed on bricks.

Materials and tools:

• red bricks;
• primer;
• solution;
• tape sealant;
• putty knife;
• level.

Ordinary ceramic bricks are ideal for this work, as they withstand a humid environment well, but you can cover them with a primer for reliability. This can be done both before laying and after it.

Bricks are laid out on the floor in two rows, in the places where the legs should be. 2.5 bricks in length are placed in each of the rows. The width should be half the brick. Three rows are enough for height.

Mainly standard height. It is enough to ensure that there is enough space under the bathroom to accommodate all necessary pipes and other parts of the installation, at the same time it is not high and quite convenient for its operation.

The question of how to install a bath with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about the possession of information that many masters hide - ignorance of the subtleties is precisely the stumbling block that makes most people refuse to install this plumbing fixture on their own and turn to the help of professionals. In this article, together with the site site, we will talk about correct sequence installation of the bath and the subtleties that are inherent in the installation of the bath, depending on the material from which it is made.

Do-it-yourself bath installation photo

How to install a bath with your own hands: the sequence of work

To understand general principle installation for all types of bathtubs, to begin with, consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both with cast iron and even acrylic. We will leave the subtleties of the work related to each individual type of bathtub for the last.

1. Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I will not delve into the intricacies of installing a bath siphon, I will only say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. No additional sealing of the joints is necessary - this will at least lead to breakage of the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually attached by the manufacturers of these products.
2. Installation on the bath supports. Here, too, not everything is unambiguous - there are a lot of designs of supporting elements for. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen generally refuse factory legs and prefer the so-called. In some respects they are right - for example, steel bathtubs are best installed in this way. How to install a bath on bricks, we'll talk a little further.

   

   How to install a bath with your own hands photo

3. Insulation and soundproofing of the bath. This step of work only applies to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already warm enough and do not produce excessive noise during their filling. Sound and heat insulation of the bath is carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the tub, you may need 4 to 5 large bottles of foam.
4. Positioning of the bath relative to the horizon. A bathtub prepared and installed in the required place must be set relative to the horizon. There is no need to lay any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and is incorporated into the design of the bath. The positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for this purpose adjusting screws. By unscrewing and twisting them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bath is set relative to the horizon, and then the short side. The progress of this process is controlled by the rack level.

   

   Do-it-yourself steel bath installation photo

5. Bath attachment. This nuance applies exclusively to a steel or acrylic bath - such a step does not provide for, since its weight is enough not to bend or move under the mass of water and a person. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls with metal hooks, which are often used to install hot water tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bath itself during operation.
6. Sealing . This is the final step in resolving the issue, how to properly install the bath? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - a self-adhesive border tape, but in a third it can even be used tile. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bath (this happens when the bath is installed even before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.

   

   How to install a bathtub to the wall photo

This is how the solution to the question looks like, how to install a bathtub against the wall? It remains only to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bath, depending on the material from which it is made. What are we going to do next.

The subtleties of installing a steel bath: two important points

In addition to the above, only two points can be added - this is the height of the bathroom installation and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.

You can see the nuances of installing a steel bath in the video clip below.

Features of installing an acrylic bath: four decisive factors

This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. In the process of solving the issue, how to properly install acrylic bath, you need to take into account the following nuances.

The nuances of installing a cast iron bath: what you need to know during installation

There are practically no nuances of installing this product. Rather, they are, but all are described above. This bath does not need to be fastened to the walls. All that is needed is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general, cast-iron bathtubs are rarely used in modern repairs - they are expensive and do not differ in a variety of forms. The only obstacle in the way of installation cast iron product for a bath is its considerable weight. If you are going to install such a bath, then enlist the help of an assistant.

Well, in conclusion of the question, how to install a bath with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. You don’t need to be afraid of them - they are mounted almost exactly the same as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner bathtubs are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points on the long side and at one on the short side.

The bathroom occupies an important place in the life of a modern person. In fact, this is the place, well, of course after the bedroom, where a person begins and ends his day. The place where we put ourselves in order, the place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room where we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!

And, despite the large number of functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people, once in such a bathroom at the same time, are unlikely to be able to disperse.

It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures will depend on how it is installed. Given that, until recently, in most housing stock, very little space was allocated for this room, during the capital, the correct installation of this huge water tank is of paramount importance.

The issue of organizing space

Now we will consider the issue of installing a bath, connecting to the sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.

Of course, despite the small size of the room, I would like to put this ancient invention more so that the length allows not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue accumulated during the day. Therefore, before the installation is carried out, one must ask another question: - And where in the bathroom is it generally best to place it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during the "Soviet" times is not the fact that this is the best option.

Let me tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathroom was located along a long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.

After a little thought, I decided to put it along the short wall of the room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and maximize the space. As always, I want a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bath along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of poured water.

To do this, it was necessary to make a strobe 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and on the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the strobe longer, to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.

He brought the bath, inserted it into the strobe from one end, and, as if on rails in the strobes, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of the four hundred liter container. Of course, the work is hard, but it is better to spend a little effort and time, so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.

But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save the existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I will move on to describing how to install the bath - our main question.

DIY step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub

The technology for installing a cast-iron and steel bathing tank will be approximately the same, except that cast iron bath It weighs a lot and therefore it is harder to work with it. Step by step, this process will look like this:

Step 1. We fasten the legs in an inverted position onto the bathtub.

On cast-iron bathtubs, due to its manufacture by casting, sometimes there are sags (casting defects) at the installation sites of the legs. These influxes prevent the full and good fit of the leg to the body, and in this case it is recommended using an abrasive wheel fixed on grinder(Bulgarian), remove excess metal. In no case should you knock with a hammer (mechanically knock down with a chisel) influxes. Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new thing.

Step 2. We bring the bathroom and put it in place.

I have done this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our "artificial sea" as close as possible to the wall and to join the tile to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, and its sealing is not difficult. In my case, when grouting, I just went through the grout and the seam between the bathroom and the wall.

Step 3. We set the bath to the desired height.

At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drain sewer at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to put linings under the legs until the required height difference is formed.

Step 4. We make adjustment of the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To do this, we apply the level in the longitudinal and transverse directions on the edge of the bath.

By screwing in or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontality. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is due to technological feature casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.

At this stage, after fine-tuning the horizontal position, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the strobes, which were installed in place.

In addition, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the leg adjusting bolts.

Step 5. Installation sewer drain.

The water trap for draining water from the bathroom is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.

So let's start by assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.

• We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be turned towards the ends of the tube.

• We put on drain hose fixing plastic nut and sealing gasket;

We also orient the gasket with a thin side to the nearest end of the tube.

• We put on the fixing nuts and gaskets on the components of the drain body;

• We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end, and part of the body to the other;

As a result, we get a system of tubes that forms a water seal. It constantly has water and prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer system into our premises.

Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must enter into inner diameter another mating part, and, tightening the plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.

• We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.

We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with a connecting nut.

• Collecting overflow.

Putting on the sealing rubber ring, we insert the body of the overflow system with inside baths. On the front side, we apply a decorative metal plate and fix the entire structure by tightening the bolt.

• From the inside of the bathtub, we insert a tube into the overflow body connecting the overflow and the drain body;

• We fix the drain body to the bath. We first insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bath.

Modern renovation of a city apartment or a country house is rarely complete today without re-equipment of the bathroom. First of all, when carrying out complex work, you should pay attention to plumbing, its condition. At present, when in specialized supermarkets and on construction market a huge selection of new, beautiful plumbing, cheaper and easier to buy a new one, modern bath than repairing an old one.

Acrylic plumbing has appeared recently, but has already won the love of our compatriots. The main advantage of the acrylic device is its low weight, so that they can be installed in buildings with problematic floors. The second advantage is the diversity various forms and colours. You can easily transform and diversify the bathroom, completely abandoning the white color. Acrylic bathtubs have big choice forms that look more interesting and original than traditional products.

A modern bathtub made of cast iron in terms of its quality and functional properties and appearance far removed from its predecessors. Today, these are models of bright colors, with a hydromassage function, with a durable and reliable coating. Manufacturers apply a non-slip coating to the bottom of the product, drain holes are installed on the side for the convenience of users, a number of models made of cast iron are equipped with soft headrests and comfortable handles on the sides. By the way, thanks modern technologies and the weight of cast iron products has become significantly less than twenty years ago.

Stages of work

Install cast iron bath at present, you can do it yourself, the main thing is to follow the manufacturer's instructions and the basic rules for installing and connecting plumbing fixtures. To carry out a competent installation, you need to have knowledge and experience with a specialized tool.

Cast iron plumbing is different high quality, heat capacity, stability. It is worth noting that during the installation of the bathtub, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the exact horizontal placement of its upper edges. It is impossible to make an additional bias towards the descent of water - the manufacturer already laid such a technical feature. As a rule, a cast-iron bath, which has standard sizes and shape, mounted on ready-made four legs, rigidly fixed on the body.

Supports can be fixed with fasteners, tie bolts or fastened with special wedges. The first fastening is more acceptable, since the wedges can loosen over time and move out of place to each other. Modern poles are available with or without built-in height adjusters.

If we install cast-iron plumbing on a perfectly flat floor with a hard surface, then you can adjust the supports by trimming and grinding. If adjustable supports are used, then the height is adjusted using a special mechanism.

Cast iron bath

Before starting the installation of the bath, it is necessary to prepare the base. In the place where the plumbing will be located, you need to level the floor with a cement screed or a special ready-made mortar. If the cast iron bowl is open, on beautiful legs, then in advance at the place of its installation it is necessary to prepare the floor and walls, lay them out with tiles. As a rule, in order to gain the necessary strength of the finished surface, it is necessary to wait a certain time, after which you can safely begin to perform plumbing work.

The walls are tiled. It is worth noting that the walls can be completely tiled (as a rule, such a process is carried out before installing the bath), or partially (the tiles are laid to the junction of the surface with plumbing).

The first option is more desirable, as it provides comprehensive protection of the room from moisture, especially if the wall is pre-treated with penetrating waterproofing.

Bath placement. It is necessary to bring the product in and lay it on its side in the place where it will be installed. The bottom should be evenly removed from the wall to the technological minimum, and the drain hole should be located in the direction of the drain. If we carry out the installation in a small bathroom with narrow doors, then we bring the bath in an upright position, having previously protected the floor and the threshold from damage soft materials and film.

Siphon installation. When installing the siphon, you need to fix rubber gaskets on top and bottom of the drain hole, which will help seal the joints and prevent leaks during operation. In the future, through these gasket rings, we will attach an overflow and a siphon-gate to the plumbing.

Installation of bath supports. First, we securely install two supports. If wedges are used as fasteners, they are installed in several stages. In order to securely fasten the supports with wedges, it is necessary to lightly, with some frequency, knock on them from different directions, starting from the center of the supports and moving towards the edges.

Finished supports, fastened with coupling bolts, are installed without tapping. If in the process visual inspection some manufacturing defects were found on the fasteners (burrs or sagging on the metal), then they must be eliminated with an angle grinder. Before fixing the supports, a special adjustable screw with an integrated fixing nut must be installed on each, which must be located below the support.

Tightening the bolts or driving the wedges should be carried out only until the supports are completely fixed in order to completely eliminate the formation of backlash. The main thing is not to overtighten the mount, as excessive force when tightening will damage the fixation element.

We connect the outlet-siphon outlet to the sewer pipe.

Setting the cast iron bath to its final position. Turn the bowl upside down, slightly raising it above the floor. The design is installed on one side on the mounted legs. From the side of the other side, we install a temporary support for safety net. After installing the remaining supports, the temporary support is removed.

Bath leveling. If the product has adjustable supports, then it is leveled by simply turning the screws and fixing them to the desired length. Cast iron plumbing itself is a rigid structure, alignment is performed from the end, as well as from the side adjacent to the wall.

Be sure to use when working building level. It must be constantly applied in the center of the bath, on the leveled side.

After completing the adjustment, the plumbing must be positioned exactly at the installation site, leaving a small gap of 1-3 mm against the wall. This gap will allow you to firmly and securely fix the plumbing fixture. If the floor surface is ceramic, smooth and slippery, then the supports are additionally fixed to the surface with a special adhesive.

Installation of sewerage under the bath. If you plan to mount a special protective screen in the future, then you need to buy it in advance so that there are no problems during the adjustment work. The main thing to remember is that the siphon outlet is located above the sewer drain point. A sealing rubber ring is put on the outlet-outlet into the sewer pipe, which will serve during operation as a waterproofing agent and a retainer in the socket of the sewer pipe. The outlet of the pipe is inserted into the socket until it is fixed.

Acrylic bath

The process of installing an acrylic bathtub is practically the same as installing a cast-iron product. The main difference is that in most acrylic plumbing models, the supports are not attached to adjustable bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the product with special screws. In the absence of ready-made holes for the screws, they must be drilled. Just be careful! Acrylic is drilled very easily; when working, you need to use a drill with a limiter.

If an acrylic bath has custom shape and size, then the manufacturer must provide a frame with regulating supports in it. Often such products have a hydromassage system. The most popular acrylic bathtubs are corner models: with straight sides or one semicircular.

Acrylic products, as a rule, are equipped with a removable screen, which is installed with a small gap from the floor surface. When installing such a bath, it is necessary to take into account both the alignment of the edges and the uniform setting of the gap from the screen to the floor. Tiles on the floor should be laid as evenly as possible. When alignment is done, the tips of the supports are fixed in a circle, coating them with a special silicone sealant. This will ensure that the supports do not move. After completing the work, a decorative screen is installed on a fully fixed product.

Installing a bath with your own hands is not a difficult procedure, the main thing is to follow technological instructions manufacturer, set the product according to the level and correctly mount plumbing connections.

Video

We bring to your attention videos on the installation of a cast-iron bath.

And these are tips for installing an acrylic bathtub.