How to install a bath in an apartment. Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation: step-by-step installation of an acrylic bath on a frame

The bathroom is our everything. We start the day here - we wash ourselves, brush our teeth, put ourselves in order. We come here during the day to fix our make-up. And, finally, what better way to wash away all daytime fatigue than a warm, relaxing bath with fragrant foam or salt? That is why so many people, despite the dynamism of life and the convenience of the shower, still opt for a bath. And the question of how to properly install a bathtub with your own hands remains one of the most frequently asked questions. By the way, installing a bathtub with your own hands will significantly save your money. cash- It's not cheap work.

Installing a bath with your own hands is not so easy, it requires a certain skill and experience, as well as the appropriate tools. However, if you follow all the recommendations and approach the matter responsibly, it is quite within the power of any person.

Choosing a bath

When you install a bath with your own hands, it is important to understand. That its installation depends on what exactly it is made of. The shape of this design should also be taken into account. Therefore, one of the first tasks that you need to solve is to choose the bath that you will install.

The shape of the bath and its color are also very important, but these plumbing features are more likely to please only your aesthetic taste.

Size and configuration are important because the bathroom needs to have rims that are comfortable for everyone, additional fittings you need such as seating, and other features.

It is one thing if a family of two lives in the house, and quite another if, in addition to the husband and wife, three children of different ages and a grandmother swim in the bathroom.

However, both the shape and color of the bath are secondary.

But the service life depends on the material from which the plumbing is made.

Baths are:

• steel;
• cast iron;
• acrylic.

Advantages and disadvantages

Plumbing made of steel looks good, and quite budget. It is lightweight which makes it easy to install. Steel baths are different forms and are widely represented in the assortment. These advantages of plumbing can not attract.

However, the water in it cools down very quickly, which is inconvenient for those who like to lie in warm water longer.

A steel bath is quite easily deformed, and if you have obese people in your family, it will also sag under heavy weight. In this case, when installing a steel bath with your own hands, it is advisable to make additional capital supports. For example, from a brick. In addition, the water rumbles violently as it pours into the steel bath. For some, this is very annoying.

Cast iron is very reliable. A cast iron bath will serve you for a long time, remaining like new, while the heat transfer from cast iron is small, so the water in such a bath does not cool for a long time. Water doesn't rattle when it hits the bottom cast iron bath.

However, this bath is not budget option, installing a cast-iron bath with your own hands is quite difficult due to the severity of the material. Even together, this will not be easy to do, you will definitely need helpers. At the same time, a cast iron bath is also fragile, it is quite easy to damage it during careless installation.

But you can even bathe an elephant in it, and there will be no deformation of the material.

Acrylic bathtubs are cute, lightweight, and inexpensive. If such a bath becomes unusable, it can be easily replaced with a new one. The water in it cools for a long time, does not make noise when filled, and installing such an acrylic bath with your own hands is quite simple.

However, an acrylic bathtub is short-lived and unstable.

Bathroom preparation

Even though you already know exactly what kind of bathtub you will get in the near future, you don't need to do this until you have prepared your bathroom and done the preparatory work.

First you need to accurately determine the place where you put the bath. This is purely a matter of taste - it is customary to install a bath close to the wall, but some put it in the center of the bathroom.

At the same time, if you are planning a renovation in the bathroom, it is better to lay tiles on the walls after you install the bath. It will simply be more convenient to seal all the gaps and cover up the cracks.

Definitely need to clean up old bath. If you have it made of steel or acrylic, there should not be any special problems with dismantling. But if your apartment has a cast-iron bath, removing it will not be so easy at all. However, dismantling old bath everyone succeeds.

It is imperative to eliminate all problems with the sewer drain. There should be no leaks, flowing pipes, faucets that are difficult to hold onto the hoses.

If you give up on the sewer and install a new bath, you will have very big problems when the water starts to leak.

At the same stage plumbing work it is necessary to resolve the issue of connecting communications, install a siphon, tee, pipes and other components of the cold and hot water system.

Bath installation process

Do-it-yourself steel bath installation

The steel bath is easy to lift, turn, and bring into the bathroom. You can easily do it yourself, without involving anyone as an assistant.

However, you can’t just take and put a steel bath. By itself, it will not stand firmly and confidently, given the weight of the structure.

steel bath must be fixed, and fixed on three sides. And on the fourth side, experts recommend installing the same capital support that we talked about above. Such a support is made of brick, which can then be faced finishing material. For example, tiles. In this case, the bath will stand quite solidly.

Manufacturers often attach legs to a steel bath. To install a steel bath on legs with your own hands, they should be adjusted in height, and short supports of the same size should be used.

Algorithm of actions during installation steel bath do it yourself the following:

• put the bath on the floor with the bottom up (at the same time, you need to put something under the bath to avoid the risk of scratching it;
• try on the supports to the places where you will attach them. One of them should be mounted next to the drain hole, and the second - on the opposite edge of the bottom, on level ground;
• put supports in right places and press firmly;
• screw the tips that are attached to the supports to them;
• turn the bath upside down, and install it on the legs in the allotted place, adjusting its position (the bath should be at a slight slope);
• connect the sewer and cover the joints;
• fill the gaps with a special mounting foam;
• make a major support of brick;
• revet the brick with any finishing material.

If you do everything right, then the steel bath will serve you for a long time, it will be stable enough, and it will not deform.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath installation

A cast iron bath is not as easy to install as a steel bath, primarily because of its weight. To bring it into an apartment or house, you will definitely need helpers. Raising a cast-iron bathtub is quite difficult even with two people.

But this very weight, which creates inconvenience for you when transferring and installing a cast-iron bath, gives it stability. Therefore, you can install a cast-iron bath directly on the legs, without any additional supports.

To properly install a cast-iron bath with your own hands, you must do the following:

• put it on its side. This should be done in such a way that the bottom of the bath is turned towards the wall, and the drain is directed towards the sewer drain. This is done for the convenience of installing the siphon;
• install the legs on the side that looks at the ceiling;
• turn the bath on the other side, and securely fasten the legs on the other side;
• put a cast-iron bath on legs;
• align the structure so that the bath is at a slight slope towards the drain;
• move the bath close to the wall, trying to do it in such a way that the gap between the wall and the bath itself is as small as possible;
• seal this gap with mounting foam;
• install the drain and secure the connection.

Tighten the bolts on the bath legs carefully enough so as not to break the plastic base.

Sometimes cast-iron bathtubs are installed on brick supports. Such an installation is very reliable, and quite accessible to everyone.

Bricks are simply laid under the cast-iron bottom of the bathroom so that the bottom rests on the brick base. Usually they make one large brick base, since the bathtub is heavy. However, some people prefer to make two major brickwork for a cast-iron bath.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation

The best thing about an acrylic bathtub is its light weight, even compared to a steel bathtub. Therefore, the process of installing an acrylic bathtub is quite simple, and you can handle it alone, without involving anyone as assistants.

However, because of the same advantage, you will definitely have to make a special frame so that the acrylic bathtub is stably held in one position.

It is possible to purchase an acrylic bathtub, to which a frame installation kit is already attached, including all the necessary components. And baths different manufacturers They also differ in different kits for fasteners, so be sure to find out this question before buying.

Please note that acrylic bathtubs can be the most various forms and configurations.

On the one hand, it is very convenient, because you can not only satisfy your exacting taste, but also use the bathroom space in the most optimal way.

However, there is also a downside. It is clear that the more complex and interesting the shape of the acrylic bath, the more difficult it will be for you to install it. This is explained simply - it is not so easy to make a frame that will exactly repeat all the interesting outlines of an acrylic bath.

If the acrylic bathtub you purchased does not have a mounting kit, then it is not difficult to make a frame for a secure installation of the bathtub yourself.

To make such a frame, you will need a brick, as well as additionally - timber and plywood. At the same time, additional wooden materials must be processed special composition which protects the wood from moisture.

The frame should be installed so that it is attached to some kind of support, for example, to the bathroom wall. If you simply attach the edge of the acrylic bathtub to the structure, the entire load will fall on the frame. And the frame can easily become unusable.

Vertical racks are placed at the corners of the acrylic bath. Exactly the same racks are installed on the sides of the bath at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. They do not have to be very high, and, as a rule, their height is chosen in accordance with the height of the bath.

Do-it-yourself steps for installing an acrylic bath should be done in the following sequence:

• first you need to make a brick base with a hole for draining water;
• fix the base of the frame from the bars;
• where the vertical racks will be, put the bars;
• install such racks;
• install the upper base for stability, and put plywood on it;
• brickwork- the base is covered with cement;
• install an acrylic bath on this frame;
• give the bath the correct position, setting it in level;
• be sure to fill the tub with water! This must be done so that the cement exactly repeats the shape of the bottom of the bath. The water in the bath is left until the solution is completely dry, after which it can be drained;
• decorate the frame so that the brickwork is not visible.

conclusions

As you can see, installing a bathtub with your own hands, regardless of what material it is made of, is not so difficult, and with the appropriate skills, even a non-plumbing installation specialist can handle it.

The most important rules that must be strictly observed when installing a bathtub with your own hands are as follows:

• you need to take care of a good support;
• the bath must be given a sure slope;
• it is necessary to carefully monitor how the sewer drain is connected;
• seams need to be sealed.

Subject to these rules, you will be able to install the bath with your own hands, regardless of the material from which it is made, and the bath will serve you and your family members for many years.

Modern renovation of a city apartment or country house Rarely does one today go without refurbishing a bathroom. First of all, when carrying out complex work, you should pay attention to plumbing, its condition. At present, when in specialized supermarkets and on construction market huge selection new, beautiful plumbing, cheaper and easier to buy a new one, modern bath than repairing an old one.

Acrylic plumbing has appeared recently, but has already won the love of our compatriots. The main advantage of the acrylic device is its low weight, so that they can be installed in buildings with problematic floors. The second plus is the variety of different shapes and colors. You can easily transform and diversify the bathroom, completely abandoning the white color. Acrylic bathtubs have big choice forms that look more interesting and original than traditional products.

A modern bathtub made of cast iron in terms of its quality and functional properties and appearance far removed from its predecessors. Today, these are models of bright colors, with a hydromassage function, with a durable and reliable coating. Manufacturers apply a non-slip coating to the bottom of the product, drain holes are installed on the side for the convenience of users, a number of models made of cast iron are equipped with soft headrests and comfortable handles on the sides. By the way, thanks modern technologies and the weight of cast iron products has become significantly less than twenty years ago.

Stages of work

It is currently possible to install a cast-iron bath on your own, the main thing is to follow the manufacturer's instructions and the basic rules for installing and connecting plumbing fixtures. To carry out a competent installation, you need to have knowledge and experience with a specialized tool.

Cast iron plumbing is of high quality, heat capacity, stability. It is worth noting that during the installation of the bathtub, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the exact horizontal placement of its upper edges. It is impossible to make an additional bias towards the descent of water - the manufacturer already laid such a technical feature. As a rule, a cast-iron bath, which has standard sizes and shape, mounted on ready-made four legs, rigidly fixed on the body.

Supports can be fixed with fasteners, tie bolts or fastened with special wedges. The first fastening is more acceptable, since the wedges can loosen over time and move out of place to each other. Modern poles are available with or without built-in height adjusters.

If we install cast-iron plumbing on a perfectly flat floor with a hard surface, then you can adjust the supports by trimming and grinding. If adjustable supports are used, then the height is adjusted using a special mechanism.

Cast iron bath

Before starting the installation of the bath, it is necessary to prepare the base. In the place where the plumbing will be located, you need to level the floor with a cement screed or a special ready solution. If the cast iron bowl is open, on beautiful legs, then in advance at the place of its installation it is necessary to prepare the floor and walls, lay them out with tiles. As a rule, in order to gain the necessary strength finished surface need to wait certain time, after which you can safely proceed to the implementation of plumbing work.

The walls are tiled. It is worth noting that the walls can be completely tiled (as a rule, such a process is carried out before installing the bath), or partially (the tiles are laid to the junction of the surface with plumbing).

The first option is more desirable, as it provides comprehensive protection of the room from moisture, especially if the wall is pre-treated with penetrating waterproofing.

Bath placement. It is necessary to bring the product in and lay it on its side in the place where it will be installed. The bottom should be evenly removed from the wall to the technological minimum, and the drain hole should be located in the direction of the drain. If we carry out the installation in a small bathroom with narrow doors, then we bring the bath in an upright position, having previously protected the floor and the threshold from damage soft materials and film.

Siphon installation. When installing the siphon, you need to fix the top and bottom of the drain hole rubber gaskets, which will help seal the joints and prevent leaks during operation. In the future, through these gasket rings, we will attach an overflow and a siphon-gate to the plumbing.

Installation of bath supports. First, we securely install two supports. If wedges are used as fasteners, they are installed in several stages. In order to securely fasten the supports with wedges, it is necessary to lightly, with some frequency, knock on them from different directions, starting from the center of the supports and moving towards the edges.

Finished supports, fastened with coupling bolts, are installed without tapping. If during the visual inspection of the fasteners, any manufacturing defects were found (burrs or sagging on the metal), then they must be eliminated with the help of an angular grinder. Before fixing the supports, a special adjustable screw with an integrated fixing nut must be installed on each, which must be located below the support.

Tightening the bolts or driving the wedges should be carried out only until the supports are completely fixed in order to completely eliminate the formation of backlash. The main thing is not to overtighten the mount, as excessive force when tightening will damage the fixation element.

We connect the outlet-siphon outlet to the sewer pipe.

Setting the cast iron bath to its final position. Turn the bowl upside down, slightly raising it above the floor. The design is installed on one side on the mounted legs. From the side of the other side, we install a temporary support for safety net. After installing the remaining supports, the temporary support is removed.

Bath leveling. If the product has adjustable supports, then it is leveled by simply turning the screws and fixing them on desired length. Cast iron plumbing itself is a rigid structure, alignment is performed from the end, as well as from the side adjacent to the wall.

Be sure to use when working building level. It must be constantly applied in the center of the bath, on the leveled side.

After completing the adjustment, the plumbing must be positioned exactly at the installation site, leaving a small gap of 1-3 mm against the wall. This gap will allow you to firmly and securely fix the plumbing fixture. If the floor surface is ceramic, smooth and slippery, then the supports are additionally fixed to the surface with a special adhesive.

Installation of sewerage under the bath. If you plan to mount a special protective screen, then it must be bought in advance so that there are no problems during the adjustment work. The main thing to remember is that the siphon outlet is located above the point sewer drain. A sealing rubber ring is put on the outlet-outlet into the sewer pipe, which will serve during operation as a waterproofing agent and a retainer in the socket of the sewer pipe. The outlet of the pipe is inserted into the socket until it is fixed.

Acrylic bath

The process of installing an acrylic bathtub is practically the same as installing cast iron product. The main difference is that in most acrylic plumbing models, the supports are not attached to adjustable bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the product with special screws. In the absence of ready-made holes for the screws, they must be drilled. Just be careful! Acrylic is drilled very easily; when working, you need to use a drill with a limiter.

If an acrylic bath has custom shape and size, then the manufacturer must provide a frame with regulating supports in it. Often such products have a hydromassage system. The most popular acrylic bathtubs are corner models: with straight sides or one semicircular.

Acrylic products, as a rule, are equipped with a removable screen, which is installed with a small gap from the floor surface. When installing such a bath, it is necessary to take into account the alignment of the edges, and the uniform setting of the gap from the screen to the floor. Tiles on the floor should be laid as evenly as possible. When alignment is done, the tips of the supports are fixed in a circle, coating them with a special silicone sealant. This will ensure that the supports do not move. After completing the work, a decorative screen is installed on a fully fixed product.

Installing a bath with your own hands is not a difficult procedure, the main thing is to follow technological instructions manufacturer, set the product according to the level and correctly mount plumbing connections.

Video

We bring to your attention videos on the installation of a cast-iron bath.

And these are tips for installing an acrylic bathtub.

Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the "face" of each person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his accuracy. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is a bath, which is directly used for taking hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose the right one, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bath correctly by conducting repair work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.

So, let's look at how modern plumbing, made of different material.

Current bath installation methods

The installation method of the bath depends on its location. So, how to fix the bath?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for corner plumbing. Often also used when placing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Floor fixing. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are such ways of mounting the container:

• On adjustable or non-adjustable feet. Ideal for fixing cast iron or steel bathtubs, which are often provided with such supports.
• On brickwork. A universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used to install acrylic plumbing.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly fix the bath.

Features of mounting a steel bath

A steel bath is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of this product. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing, remember that it is characterized by a large weight. It greatly complicates the installation and makes special demands on the stability and strength of the fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. The presence of these supports greatly simplifies installation. It is necessary to properly fix the supports, which often come with plumbing. The bath is ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bath in this case?

Features of mounting a steel bath on brickwork

Masonry provides good rigidity compared to using regular legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We correlate its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
• Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl is at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
• We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, we level the container by changing the angle of inclination of the struts.

• Brickwork must initially be laid out under that part of the bath where the legs of the structure should have been located.
• The last row of masonry must be brought close to the wall of the bath. For this, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. After we check the spacers and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bath, we lay out the screen under the very rim.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way bathroom fittings.

Is a screen needed?

You can also overlay a brick screen with tiles to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will perform not only a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to keep the masonry adjacent to its lower part around the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is relevant only for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for an acrylic bowl.

Fixing the bathroom to the wall and to the floor

Mounting metal structure on brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bath to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard support structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the size previously assumed. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container under the height of the sides 60 cm, and the bathroom with the legs turned out reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by cutting pieces of tiles of the required thickness. The bathtub can be securely fixed by their glued elements at the location of the legs.

After that, it is necessary to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install the metal profile according to the markings made earlier.

On the wall we seal the fasteners with silicone. To do this, in the upper part of the profile, stepping back 1-2 mm, we apply silicone sealant.

We move it to the wall so that its supports stand in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tiles, you must install the bath no earlier than a day later. After all, silicone must completely polymerize.

With a metal bath sorted out. And how to fix an acrylic bath, which is very popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bath on supports

Acrylic baths are currently very popular. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bath? To the wall or on regular supports?

The installation of a bath made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the packaging.
• A blanket or carpet should be laid on the floor, which will keep the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bath, correlate them with the size of the seat. The corner bath must always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for the manufacture of the bathtub frame.
• Separately, we lay out all the components. This will make it easier to get to them. So, how to fix the legs of the bathroom?
• Carefully insert the plugs into the ends of the legs. We fasten them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (inside which there is a thread).

• We wind 2 locknuts on the studs.
• We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The stud of the adjusting leg is screwed into it.
• The first lock nut must be screwed close to the profile, the second - to the leg. So the design will be not only stable, but also reliable.
• We install profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, it is necessary to prepare a long and short hairpin.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts in the same way as the legs.
• But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on from the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install plastic legs on both sides on a screwed-in longer hairpin. Thus, one foot of the bowl should rest against the floor, and the other against the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. At the same time, please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. You can use the ruler to check the position extreme points supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• We can assume that the acrylic bath is ready. The assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by unlocking the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced acrylic bath

The above methods of how to fix the bath are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be fixed in another way. Indeed, the long-term operation of the bathtub on supports shows that this method of installation has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crackles in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bath sways? How to fix it correctly?

This minor flaw is not critical, but it is desirable to eliminate it. To do this, it is necessary to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.

Having decided to install the bath on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be carried at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on the mounting foam. After the foam hardens completely, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a foam bottle and a few bricks.

Features of the manufacture of reinforced fasteners

So, installation work consists in performing sequential actions:

• We raise the bath to the maximum height using the adjusting feet.
• Along the perimeter of the future laying of bricks, we blow out strips of mounting foam.
• We apply foam to the brick, lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl onto the foam with the help of adjustable supports, which we fix with nuts.
• After 24 hours, you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when securing an object, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work generally. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bath on legs?

stack of water

The right device a stack of water is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and drains must be located above the level sewer pipe.

A large height difference will allow the water to leave faster. Due to the fast flow, the liquid can automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to make repairs and preventive examinations less frequently.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be in the optimal value.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing the flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth plastic pipes. Of course, they are easier to work with, because you do not need to respect the dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. With frequent disassembly of the siphon, rubber seals and even threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires the replacement of the entire device.

And if the bath is attached to the floor, then all repairs are extremely difficult to carry out. Experts recommend purchasing siphons, in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary tube bend. So the smell will not get into the room, blockages will be much less common. And when they occur, you do not need to disassemble the structure, it is enough to use a conventional plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized by high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the products.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into a few millimeters. Therefore, often in this case, a wedge-shaped gap is formed between a flat wall and the side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with a silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest fluctuation. It is not recommended to re-glue them.

Output

Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has little experience in the construction industry can handle. Now you know how to fix the bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

The question of how to install a bath with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about the possession of information that many masters hide - ignorance of the subtleties is precisely the stumbling block that makes most people refuse to install this plumbing fixture on their own and turn to the help of professionals. In this article, together with the site site, we will talk about correct sequence installation of the bath and the subtleties that are inherent in the installation of the bath, depending on the material from which it is made.

Do-it-yourself bath installation photo

How to install a bath with your own hands: the sequence of work

To understand general principle installation for all types of bathtubs, to begin with, consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both with cast iron and even acrylic. We will leave the subtleties of the work related to each individual type of bathtub for the last.

1. Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I will not delve into the intricacies of installing a bath siphon, I will only say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. No additional sealing of the joints is necessary - this will at least lead to breakage of the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually attached by the manufacturers of these products.
2. Installation on the bath supports. Here, too, not everything is unambiguous - there are a lot of designs of supporting elements for. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen generally refuse factory legs and prefer the so-called. In some respects they are right - for example, steel bathtubs are best installed in this way. How to install a bath on bricks, we'll talk a little further.

   

   How to install a bath with your own hands photo

3. Insulation and soundproofing of the bath. This step of work only applies to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already warm enough and do not produce excessive noise during their filling. Noise and heat insulation of the bath is carried out using mounting foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the tub, you may need 4 to 5 large bottles of foam.
4. Positioning of the bath relative to the horizon. A bathtub prepared and installed in the required place must be set relative to the horizon. There is no need to lay any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and is incorporated into the design of the bath. The positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for this purpose adjusting screws. By unscrewing and twisting them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bath is set relative to the horizon, and then the short side. The progress of this process is controlled by the rack level.

   

   Do-it-yourself steel bath installation photo

5. Bath attachment. This nuance applies exclusively to a steel or acrylic bath - such a step does not provide for, since its weight is enough not to bend or move under the mass of water and a person. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls with metal hooks, which are often used to install hot water tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bath itself during operation.
6. Sealing . This is the final step in resolving the issue, how to properly install the bath? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - a self-adhesive border tape, but in a third it can even be used tile. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bath (this happens when the bath is installed even before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.

   

   How to install a bathtub to the wall photo

This is how the solution to the question looks like, how to install a bathtub against the wall? It remains only to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bath, depending on the material from which it is made. What are we going to do next.

The subtleties of installing a steel bath: two important points

In addition to the above, only two points can be added - this is the height of the bathroom installation and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.

You can see the nuances of installing a steel bath in the video clip below.

Features of installing an acrylic bath: four decisive factors

This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. In the process of deciding how to properly install an acrylic bath, you need to take into account the following nuances.

The nuances of installing a cast iron bath: what you need to know during installation

There are practically no nuances of installing this product. Rather, they are, but all are described above. This bath does not need to be fastened to the walls. All that is needed is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general, cast-iron bathtubs in modern renovation are used extremely rarely - they are expensive and do not differ in a variety of forms. The only obstacle to the installation of a cast-iron bath product is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bath, then enlist the help of an assistant.

Well, in conclusion to the question of how to install a bath with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. You don’t need to be afraid of them - they are mounted almost exactly the same as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner bathtubs are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points on the long side and at one on the short side.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; chipping off the enamel is easy, but. Steel and plastic bathtubs must be turned very carefully: the coating may crack from deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or a door by itself. In addition, the installation of the bath has to be done in a cramped room. Therefore, the first condition for self-installation of the bath is a strong, skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak helper can not cope.

The second point is the installation of bathroom plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you can not be white-handed. You must have developed a tactile sense; Simply put - your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. An instrument accidentally dropped into the tub can cause irreparable damage. And if the bath is acrylic, then blind holes will have to be drilled in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If it is planned to replace the bath, and not transfer the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

1. Steel ("tin") cheap and easy to work. A sturdy man with working plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is filled / released, which does not benefit the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, the deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
2. Cast iron- eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. Working with her is very difficult: hard. And it's not just about weight: it's almost impossible to put a cast-iron bath on already without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but, turning the bathtub, again, it is easy to damage it. In addition, if the bath is on decorative open legs, then leveling it is a chore, and adjustable legs break easily from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and flops in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) bathtubs last up to 15-20 years. It is expensive, but cheaper than cast iron. You need to work with it together, but without strain, as with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coatings are easier to repair than enamel. It can be said that it is an ideal option, with the exception: it is unacceptable to get aggressive detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In fact, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At current prices for hot water bathing in the bath is a luxury; cheaper prices are not expected. In this regard, the heat loss of the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

• Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor conductor of heat. If a temperature of 60 degrees is set on the boiler, then to fill an ordinary semi-recumbent acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is enough.
• Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively releases heat into space, in the form infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter one, you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, in just a month or two, an expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out”.
• Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And she warms up for a long time, and gives off heat well: metal after all. A boiler is needed for at least 100 liters, and for the money - washing in cast iron bath will cost 1.5 times more than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation of a new bath is timed to coincide with the repair of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone the wall cladding "for later", after the installation of the bath. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made the waterproofing of the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bath. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tile) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold.

Note: in In this case, an incomplete row of tiles in height will be visible. For the sake of preserving the decorative qualities of the cladding, it is better to put it in the middle of the height of the wall - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made of tiles of a different color, then it can turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If there is only a bath replacement, then a new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the gap that has appeared aesthetically pleasing: although the facing tile does not burn out, dirt has eaten into its previously hidden part, which cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bath must be flat and durable; especially - under the cast-iron, which weighs a lot even empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the tiles on the floor are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on the "comb". Under the weight of the bathtub, tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not care about its strength at all, you can lay two larch boards (logs) on the floor (it is from it, only teak is suitable from other wood, but it is not widely available). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath fall on them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A wooden pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and / or facing the boards, you need to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and hold it for at least two days, and preferably a week.

bathtub height

The installation height of the bathroom is important not only for its interface with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is to seep through it into reverse order any infection from the sewer.

Then, the flow from the high bath will go more intense. How long it takes to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bath by only 4-5 cm with the right drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain grid and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump, knows what this means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made from two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene reinforcement is more expensive, but has important advantages over vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
3. The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not tuberculate, but striated. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance propylene pipes one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross section will allow more water to pass through itself, and there is less risk of flooding neighbors.

typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take the "Chinese" drain, assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, rust will seize the bolt so that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will be necessary to break it down and install a new one. There is no point in changing the bolt to brass or bronze: the material will turn green and grab in the same way. And it’s also pointless to sharpen a stainless steel bolt to order: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt from another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, electrocorrosion will immediately begin with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a grid in the form of a cross of two crossbars. Such a net is a very good hair trap, and it is difficult and disgusting to tear them out of there. A grid of circular holes arranged around the circumference is better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slots. In a bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, coarse calico, flannel, and the drain will not clog, and the mesh will remain clean.

cork chain

The usual cork chain is soon torn, and in any case covered with a coating of salts, which does not add to the attractiveness of the bath. There is drain devices with a remote controlled plug, but they are expensive and prone to breakage. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

overflow pipe

Do not take hard - this is a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means there is less chance of overflow.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

• Rule. This is a flat rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bath. Needed to level the bathtub. Aligning diagonally even an amateur does in two steps, and aligning along the sides requires 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain cracked after that.
• Fork wrench for tightening the release parts. You can’t grab it with adjustable pliers, and it’s extremely inconvenient with pliers, and you can damage it.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath during its assembly. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not give the necessary force and accuracy of impact.

Note: like a rubber hammer, you can adapt a chasing hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose over its spherical butt.

Of the materials, you will need silicone sealant (sealants based on MS are expensive and do not have significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bath is acrylic. A drill stopper is made from electrical tape. PVC tape slips easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose, tightly stretched over the drill.



About leveling and pairing the outlet with the sewer

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, not to lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bath, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to interface the outlet pipe of the bathtub with the sewer, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be done after alignment, and the cuff should be taken soft, from micropork or neoprene, so that the drain outlet can become tilted. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; estimated service life - 100 years. In the USSR, it was known as "military sealant".

But the easiest option is to purchase a drain valve with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. It is impossible to blow out with mounting foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from the inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

1. The rule is laid diagonally on the bathtub, a level is placed on it and horizontal is achieved by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Transfer the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
3. Check if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bath and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side goes astray, and you have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve exactly horizontality. The inclination of the bottom of the bath bowl to the drain is already provided.

Sewer preparation

The branch pipe of the sewer pipe and the pipe itself must be dry from the inside for reliable sealing. Firstly, for this, when installing a bath, in no case should there be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be well dried from the inside. Plaque can not be cleaned off if it is small, but it must be dried thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, by the wife's hair dryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bath, try to send your family somewhere. Except, perhaps, for an adult son - an assistant.

Scheme-example of installing a bath:



Installing an acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will first have to attach complete guides (lodgements) for legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom on special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the fastenings of the lodgements for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about this, then the positions of the lodgements are standard: front 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge of the drain hole along the length; back - at the place where the bowl passes into the back rounding.

The lodgements are applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, the drilling points are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. Drilling depth - 3/4 of the length of the body of the self-tapping screw.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and drain fittings are mounted. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
• The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It must be placed with the tip of the wedge to the edge of the hose, so that when tightened, it will be pressed into the spacer.
• Threaded connections do not tighten tightly.

The bath is turned upside down again, the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with a measurement so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the side of the drain.

Then the bath is carefully put in place, moving close to the walls. At the same time, an experienced one makes sure that the outlet of the bath gets into the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled, the outlet is sealed. Until the sealant has hardened, the joints are tightly tightened with a fork wrench: who is larger, sits in the bath and holds, and who has smaller hands, bends, reaches out and twists: all turnkey places are outside. After the sealant hardens (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately), check for leaks.

If it does not flow, or is eliminated, the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls are sealed with the same silicone. Streaks and influxes of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but more on that later.

steel bath

The installation of a steel bath is done in the same way as an acrylic one, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs should sit in their places like a glove.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash of the legs allows, you need to lay pieces of rubber from the car camera under their surfaces in contact with the bath bowl. Then the bath will ring less when filled with water.



Cast iron bath

The installation of a cast-iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and it is risky to turn it around for the environment. Therefore, if the size of the bathroom allows, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there, and there it should already be equipped with a drain and legs. If the bath is on decorative legs, then its alignment is also done in a “naked” form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. Leg pads negate aesthetics, and filing legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And each time such a bath needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then again put on legs and dragged. Therefore, for a bathtub on decorative legs, the floor of the bathroom needs to be increased in advance.

It is also inconvenient and risky to put a cast-iron bath on its side once again for drain installation. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

plastic bath

On sale there are cheap substitutes for acrylic bathtubs. When installing such a plastic bathtub, in addition to a particularly careful attitude towards it, it is necessary to place several larch chocks under the bottom, processed like logs under the legs. With a pillow like this budget bath may well last ten years.



Screen

The bath screen can be either complete or complete. A lot of self-made screens are described, and their designs differ in a surprising variety for such a simple device. Only one recommendation can be singled out: do not bring the screen to the floor by 5-6 cm. Rubbish under the bathroom will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damaging the screen with a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub. In this case, sealing the outlet into the sewer and the gaps between the bathroom and the wall is done last. The installation of the screen under the bath is carried out with the bath already leveled and standing in place, the outlet of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen goes into the groove or catches the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is deaf, then you need to look for drain fittings with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But it is not the best way: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.
2. For a bathtub with a complete screen, the bedding from the lags under the legs is not applicable, except perhaps in some way to raise the screen. And you need to align such a bath not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best thing is not a complete and not home-made, but a purchased bath screen. Such screens are supplied with adjustable legs. They can even be adapted to a bathtub standing still: wrap the legs all the way, move them forward, and turn them away until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub.

Summary

Self-installation of a bathtub, especially a cast-iron bathtub, is hard and difficult work. A beginner can be recommended to independently install only an acrylic or steel bath.