Do-it-yourself trailer for a walk-behind tractor from improvised materials. Heavy walk-behind tractor

By purchasing a trailer for a walk-behind tractor, you significantly expand the functionality of the equipment and reduce the amount of work performed manually. At the same time, the price of such structures can become burdensome for the budget, so many land owners are considering the possibility of self-manufacturing structures.

Types and purpose of models

The trailer device for a walk-behind tractor depends on its carrying capacity and purpose. These parameters also affect the cost of products.

• For light walk-behind tractors, trailers with a width of 1 m and a length of 0.85-1.15 m are used. Their carrying capacity is 300 kg, and the cost is from $ 200.
• A trailer for a walk-behind tractor from 5 hp (middle category) is larger in size. With the same width (1 m), their length reaches 1.4-1.5 m. The price of such products is from $ 250.
• Trailers for heavy walk-behind tractors have increased both length and width. Overall dimensions are 1.2x2.0-3.0 m. For such impressive dimensions, a more reliable support is required, therefore such products are produced biaxial. When purchasing such models, you will have to spend at least $ 500.

• The simplest models are solid. Their geometry does not change, the walls and bottom are fixedly connected.
• The body with folding sides is well suited for the transportation of bulky goods, the weight of which does not exceed the norms established for a particular category of products.
• The dump trailer is most convenient for unloading. Using it, there is no need to pick up a shovel or other hand tools. In addition, the dump trailer increases productivity.

Design nuances

When planning to purchase or make a trailer with your own hands, it is important to take into account the relationship of some design features with the carrying capacity of products.

• Tipper trailers on double-axle trailers with a large load capacity are equipped with a hydraulic drive for easy tipping.
• For uniaxial models, tipping usually occurs due to the specific location of the center of gravity, a manual device is sufficient.
• Trailers with a carrying capacity of more than 350 kg are equipped with a mechanical brake. When driving a fully loaded walk-behind tractor with a trailer downhill, it will be very difficult to stop them using only the brakes of the vehicle.

Self-manufacturing

Having studied the standard designs that manufacturers offer, you can think about how to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. You should choose a convenient design. A dump trailer is somewhat more complicated in execution, but more functional. However, with a rare use of technology, a simpler solution is chosen.

Drawings and diagrams

As an initial stage, it is good to sketch a home-made trailer for a walk-behind tractor, indicating the dimensions. It will be possible to be guided by this figure when choosing materials, to determine complex and requiring more careful development of nodes from it. Subsequently, you can perform a more detailed and accurate scheme.

It is important to take into account that the center of gravity of a properly balanced trailer loaded is closer to the front side, but in such a way that it does not go beyond the wheel axle.

trailer frame

The reliability of the frame determines the strength and durability that a homemade motoblock trailer will have.

1. For the manufacture of a frame lattice, a pipe with a square (rectangle) in cross section and a corner are suitable.
2. For the manufacture of the front and rear crossbars, a corner of 25x25 mm is chosen.
3. Pipes 60x30 mm act as spars.
4. The elements are connected with the help of five auxiliary crossbars so that the result is a frame-lattice.
5. Four vertical posts are welded to the longitudinal pipes at the corners of the grid.

Further actions are determined by the type of the selected model.

• The dump trailer must have a folding side from the rear end of the box.
• A product with folding sides requires a similar design of all (three) sides, with the exception of those facing the walk-behind tractor.
• The frames of folding elements are made separately from the general frame, and for the simplest models - as its elements.

Frame sheathing

As a sheathing of the sides, a material is usually chosen, the use of which will not increase the cost of the product, that is, available at hand.

• Wood (boards left after the construction of outbuildings) is not practical due to its low resistance to moisture. The boards will have to be impregnated with special compounds, carefully painted over and monitored for the integrity of the coating.
• Plastic is moisture resistant, it is not subject to destruction under the influence of many chemicals. Plastic is cheap, but its disadvantage is low mechanical strength.
• Anti-corrosion coated metal sheets are the most durable, but also quite expensive option. If the tipping trailer will be used intensively, it is better to stop at the metal. When sewing, the connection of cut sheets with frames can be performed by welding.

Before sheathing the sides, it is necessary to cover the horizontal surface of the grating (body floor). For this purpose, a duralumin sheet is well suited, which is fixed with bolts.

The sheathed frames of the tailgates are connected to the main frame with the help of hinges and are equipped with bolts, bolts or hooks for fixing in the closed state.

Chassis

To ensure movement, a trailer for a walk-behind tractor can be equipped with wheel assemblies of an old vehicle or (a simpler version) a garden wheelbarrow. For their fastening, an additional pipe or axle is welded.

The hub is often fastened by pressing, for which its back part is bored and put on the axle (pipe), controlling the absence of skew. The wheels are mounted on pins, after which they are fixed with nuts. The final stage is screwing on the cap.

Installation of wheels from a wheelbarrow is carried out according to a simplified scheme

Connecting a trailer to a walk-behind tractor

The hitch of a walk-behind tractor with a trailer is a critical structural element.

The best option for self-manufacturing is a simple and reliable pipe-in-pipe assembly. On one side of the curved pipe, another short piece of pipe is welded in a vertical position for connection to the walk-behind tractor using a king pin. At the opposite end of the main (curved) pipe, another piece is also welded on and a king pin is installed to connect to the trailer. This design provides a secure connection, combined with the agility required over curves and bumps.

The use of a walk-behind tractor on the farm often requires additional attachments. You can save on its purchase by making a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. This work is simple and accessible to everyone with small skills in locksmithing.

Possible trailer options

Trailers for walk-behind tractors most often fail due to exceeding the permissible load. Therefore, you should first decide on the main types of work for which the model is intended, and the volume of traffic. The following options are possible.

Light trailer. A model designed for a load capacity of 50-70 kg without the weight of the driver can easily be made from a conventional garden cart with one axle. It is enough to weld the trailing mechanism to it and make a stand for the seat.

Universal option suitable for transportation of small-sized cargo weighing up to 120 kg on a site with uneven terrain. The U-shaped frame is welded from an I-beam. A tow hitch from a plow is attached to the drawbar.

heavy model on rubber running is the most rational, although a little more expensive. It allows you to use all the features of the walk-behind tractor and extends its service life by decades. For its manufacture, it is necessary to purchase a metal profile of the right size and some spare parts for an automobile chassis.

Necessary materials

The set of materials and equipment necessary for work consists of:

• electric welding machine;
• grinders;
• electric drills with drills of different sizes;
• a dozen electrodes No. 4;
• steel profile - a tubular square with dimensions 40X40 20 m long and 20X40 15 m long;
• steel pipe, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the outer size of the bearing at the hub;
• sheet metal 2 mm thick with an area of ​​​​2X3 m;
• two hubs in a set from the car "Moskvich" brand M2140 or M 412;
• two wheels from it, in a normal technical condition;
• two awnings from the garage door.

The main dimensions can be selected independently, depending on the types of work, for example, 150X200 cm. The height of the homemade trailer is selected in such a way that it has a horizontal position in working condition. The carrying capacity of a trailer for a conventional walk-behind tractor should not exceed 500 kg. For powerful walk-behind tractors with a 12 hp engine. from. load capacity may be higher. The trailer can be attached to a walk-behind tractor using a standard plow hitch, or you can make it yourself. The towbar is made of a round tube with an extension from the trailer to the mounting hole of 1.3 m.

Hull welding

To make the skeleton of a homemade body, you should:

• cut a metal profile of a square section;
• weld a rectangular frame of longitudinal and transverse spars;
• inside it, make a pair of transverse spacers to strengthen the bottom of the body;
• then cut and connect by welding the side of the trailer - 4 pieces 50 cm high;
• sew up the sides with steel sheets and weld to the base of the body;
• lay out the bottom with sheet metal and fasten it with metal profile beams;
• install the tailgate with the help of door hinges so that it can be folded down when unloading;
• if desired, you can make folding sidewalls;
• treat the structure with anti-rust and coat with a primer.

Chassis

The most important part of the work is the installation of the chassis. First you need to prepare the wheel axle. Any wheels can be adapted, but a trailer for a walk-behind tractor, made on a rubber run, will facilitate control and increase driving safety. The axle is firmly welded to the spars at several points and the longitudinal hinge. Its length must be chosen taking into account that the wheels do not protrude beyond the dimensions of the homemade body.

For better fixation of the axle, angle supports are used. The running unit must be installed strictly parallel to the transverse beam of the frame. The use of a tubular axle will increase the strength of the structure when the permissible load is exceeded. The position of the hubs in the pipe should ensure minimum wheel runout.

Making a hitch for a trailer

The effective use of a variety of attachments on a walk-behind tractor is impossible without a high-quality hitch. You can make it yourself, saving on buying a factory mechanism. In the manufacture of the coupling device, it is necessary to ensure:

• size compatibility for walk-behind tractor and attachments;
• simplicity and reliability in operation;
• the ability to configure equipment for a specific task.

The main part of the hitch is a U-shaped bracket with mounting holes. Through them, it is attached with pins:

• On the one side- to the walk-behind tractor;
• on the other hand- to a trailer or other attachments.

The material for this node can be a channel of the desired size. Holes must be of a certain diameter. The pins are made from high strength steel. The position of the device is changed using the lever. The hitch is located under the steering.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade trailer

When it becomes necessary to use a trailer for a walk-behind tractor on the farm, many are faced with a choice: what is more profitable - to buy a device or to make a trailer with your own hands? Everyone makes a decision independently, depending on their skills in craftsmanship and existing prices on the market. The advantages of a homemade unit are the ability to:

• determine its dimensions according to your needs;
• change some parameters;
• choose strong and durable materials that will provide the trailer for a walk-behind tractor with a long service life;
• use improvised devices that will save on factory samples.

A do-it-yourself trailer can be equipped with other useful devices, for example, reflectors, brakes. To manage, you need to acquire some skills that will require a little time.

With the purchase of a walk-behind tractor, there was a need for a cargo trailer for it, for garbage collection, transportation of firewood, building materials and other household needs. Looking at the factory-made trolleys in the store and listening to the reviews of the owners, I realized that for a decent price, manufacturers offer, to put it mildly, very low quality products. The main complaints were about the fragility of the whole structure, a weak, often breaking hitch, and rather weak brakes and wheels. There were also complaints about peeling paint and rust after the first year of operation. It was decided to make a trailer myself, for the Salyut 100 walk-behind tractor.

Wheels - choose the right ones

The first step was to choose the wheels for the trailer. At first I wanted to use the rear beam assembly with wheels from the VAZ 2109, but having estimated its considerable weight and dimensions of the future trailer, I changed my mind. For my Salyut 100, such a trailer would be too heavy. Nothing but wheelbarrow wheels were available in stores. The only suitable wheels that could easily withstand the load were the wheels from the little Oka VAZ-2111.

To begin with, I bought two used wheels with good summer tires. As brakes, it was decided to use the rear brakes from the Oka assembly, which I purchased along with the rear axles and brake drums, which were also in use. I bought two new handbrake cables, also from Oka, in a car shop.

Body and frame

The body and all other structural elements are made of shaped pipes, which were purchased at the nearest construction market. First, I made two side walls of the body from a pipe with a section of 20x30 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm.

Drawing of the side and rear side of the trailer

Two pipes 120 cm long and two pipes 31 cm long. I cut the ends of the pipes with a grinder, as shown in the diagram above, at 45 degrees, and placing them on a sheet of furniture chipboard, I made tack welding (three electrodes) in several places. The squareness of the connection was checked with an ordinary construction square. The resulting blanks, after checking their straightness, finally boiled, and so that they would not be led during the welding process, pressed them with clamps.

The welding seams were polished with the same grinder. For convenience, I used an angle grinder with a disk with a diameter of 125mm.

Then from the same pipe (20x30mm) I cut five blanks exactly 1 meter long. These are blanks for the bottom and front side of the bogie. I welded them between the two side boards, at first also slightly grabbing them with welding, pressing them with clamps to the chipboard sheet. Right angles were also controlled with the same construction square. The two central pipes, indicated in the figure by red arrows at numbers 3 and 4, were placed not vertically like the rest, but horizontally and made spacers (1 and 2) aligned them along the lower plane of the bottom. On the side and front sides, I also made spacers from the same pipes.

To fix the bottom, I welded it in the corners of the body and in the center of the pipe trimming, they can be seen in the photo. The rear board was made similarly to the side boards from the same pipes 20x30mm, only the dimensions were removed in place, it turned out 990x270mm.

The tailgate of the trailer is mounted on ordinary door hinges and closed with latches; for safety, reflective stickers are glued to it, which are clearly visible at night. For convenience, the board is made removable, allowing you to quickly unload the transported cargo.

On the side and front boards, I welded pipe trimmings 25x40mm for racks of additional wooden boards (see photo below).

I did not make the length of the body longer, since when it is raised, the angle will be too small, and the contents will not fall out of it. The body frame is ready, let's move on to the trailer frame.

Frame

The beam was made from prof. pipes 50x50mm 1180mm long by welding pieces of the same pipe 155mm long at 45 degrees, as shown in the figure. Then I welded two pieces of a 32 mm corner from the sides, parallel to the plane of the cut pipes. The axles of the trailer are attached to these corners with bolts.

This design is due to the fact that turning work is not available to me. If you have a lathe, you can greatly simplify the design by turning the necessary blanks for attaching the axles and simply welding them to the trailer beam.

Next, I made the drawbar of the trailer. It needs two profile pipes 25x50mm and 1.85 meters long each. I welded these pipes to the beam, resulting in a triangular structure, to reinforce which I welded 4 mm thick metal scarves in the corners next to the beam, and welded an 8 mm thick plate in front under the towing device. In order for the trailer to become tipper, a drop of door hinges bought in the store was welded to the beam and bottom struts (in the photo they are shown by arrows 1 and 2).

The body is fixed with a conventional door latch welded to the spacer between the drawbar pipes (see photo below).

The latch is inserted into a piece of pipe and welded, so it holds quite firmly. It opens with a lever on the toolbox, connected to the latch with an ordinary wire.

Seat - toolbox

All metal parts are painted with black primer - rust enamel, and the body and toolbox are sheathed with galvanized roofing iron, which is planted on ordinary rivets. The frame of the tool box is welded from a 20 mm angle and has dimensions: L 70 x W 34 x H 30 cm. The seat is made of a piece of chipboard and foam rubber, sheathed with leatherette. A lock is embedded on the side (see photo).

The dimensions of this box were not chosen by chance, because there is a need to transport a chainsaw, an ax and a canister of gasoline. And as it turned out later, the long seat is more comfortable when cornering. The bottom of the trailer was made from two pieces of waterproof OSB 12mm thick. Subsequently, I will fasten a sheet of galvanized roofing from above.

Brake system

The braking system is standard from the Oka. The parking brake is used. The brake pedal is welded from 6mm metal. It is fixed on a footrest (30x60cm), this plate was found in a landfill. Under it are welded two corners of 32mm and a length of 37cm. A pedal is attached to them in front, and a plate with two holes for brake cables is attached to the back. The ends of the cables are screwed with special clamps to a T-shaped plate, from which there is a thrust to the brake pedal. There is nothing complicated in the design of the brakes, I think everything will be clear from the photos.

hitch

As a hitch for the device, I made and used a trailer assembly (PIR) to the MB from Yuri Rybalchenko. For which many thanks to him! His device can be easily found on the Internet by typing the highlighted phrase in a search engine. So that when towing a trailer, the hitch of the walk-behind tractor does not break, I made an intermediate bracket, twisting it with bolts with a ready-made (in red photo) bracket from the hitch for attachments.

I also had to make a homemade trailer pin from a suitable metal bar.

Summing up, I can say that the design of the trailer turned out to be quite durable and comfortable. Exploiting almost three months, I have not identified any shortcomings. In no way inferior to factory-made trailers, at a price it cost almost three times cheaper, because it bought used spare parts. It took about two weeks to build and search for spare parts. Well, since this is my first experience as a welder, I ask you not to judge strictly. I will be glad if my design will be useful to someone.

- We express our gratitude to the user for the informative and useful material.

In the garden or in the garden, a walk-behind tractor is one of the most useful things. With it, you not only easily cultivate the land, but also transport a lot of necessary things: hay, fertilizers, potato crops, fuel ... But how can this be done if a standard walk-behind tractor does not have a trailer? There is a way out - a do-it-yourself trolley for a walk-behind tractor is made (the drawings are given below) is quite simple, and this will save a lot of money.

A simple do-it-yourself cart for a walk-behind tractor drawings

A trolley for a walk-behind tractor can carry a load of 400-450 kg plus the weight of the driver. She easily carries six or seven sacks of potatoes without reloading.

Drawing of a trolley for a walk-behind tractor

Description:

• 1 - bracket for attachments of a walk-behind tractor;
• 2 - console;
• 3 - carrier;
• 4 - footboard from the board s20;
• 5 - driver's seat from the board s20;
• 6 - frame;
• 7 - body from the board s20;
• 8 - support beam from a bar 50 × 50, 3 pcs.;
• 9 - bolt M8;
• 10 - thrust ring made of pipe st.58×4;
• 11 - a wheel from a motorized carriage, 2 pcs.

Carriage carrier structurally contains only a few parts, fastened together by welding. The most overloaded part will be the tongue-to-swivel interface. Therefore, in this place it is necessary to install additional stiffeners.

Trolley frame

It is made of a steel corner and scraps of pipes with a round and rectangular section. The whole structure looks somewhat intricate and has an excess margin of safety. It is designed for use on rough terrain and hence harsh operating conditions for the trolley.

Trolley frame for walk-behind tractor

• 1 - brace from the corner of st. L21 × 3;
• 2 - seat frame from the corner of st. L21 × 3;
• 3 - riser from a pipe st.50 × 25 × 4;
• 4 - seat posts from the corner st. L40 × 4;
• 5.14 - front struts from the pipe st.50 × 25;
• 6, 15 - longitudinal spars from the corner of st. L40 × 4;
• 7, 8 - wheel axle supports from the corner of st.L32×4;
• 9.16 - rear struts from the pipe st.50 × 25;
• 10 - reinforcing cross member from the corner of st. L40×4;
• 11 - longitudinal hinge body made of pipe st.58×4;
• 12 - wheel axle from a circle st.30 mm;
• 13.17 - transverse spars from the corner of st. L40 × 4;
• 18 - scarves (s4).

Who does not count on such large loads can take a simpler option.

trolley carrier

• 1 - housing of the swivel unit;
• 2 - drawbar from the pipe st. 49×3, L1820;
• 3 - frame of the footrest of the corner of st. L25 × 4;
• 4 - stop from pipe st.58×4;
• 5 - stiffener from sheet st.s4;
• 6 - overlay from a strip. 25 × 4.

The blank for the wheel axle is a steel circle with a diameter of 30 mm. With an axle length of about a meter, the wheels are under the body. The wheel axle with angular bearings and a gusset is welded to the spars and the body of the longitudinal hinge.

Body

It is knocked together from 20mm boards, on the corners of which steel corners are attached. The bogie body is attached to the frame through three strong support beams made of 50x50 timber.

wheels

They are taken from the motorized stroller together with the hub assembly. Both ends of the axle are sharpened to match the diameter of the hub bearings.

Hitch with walk-behind tractor

The coupling of the trolley and walk-behind tractor is provided by the console. Its upper part repeats the contour of the holder of the hiller, as it is fixed in the standard bracket of attachments of the walk-behind tractor. Around the lower part in the form of an axis, a rotary carrier assembly is fixed in two RUE-bearings. The space between RUPs is filled with grease and closed from the outside with anthers.
Under severe operating conditions of the trolley, its connection and the carrier must be articulated.

The drawbar is inserted inside the tubular body of the longitudinal hinge, it is fixed with a thrust ring. This design leads to the independence of the wheels of the cart from the wheels of the walk-behind tractor, which, when driving over bumps, greatly simplifies the control of the walk-behind tractor.

Knot swivel

1 - console,
2 - anthers,
3.6 - bearings 36206,
4 - body,
5 - spacer sleeve,
7 - remote bushing,
8 - washer,
9 - nut М20×2.5,
10 - oiler,
11 - drawbar.
The driver sits on a semi-rigid wooden seat cushion in front of the body. The driver's hands hold on to the levers of the walk-behind tractor, and with his feet he leans on the footboard made of wood in a frame from the corners on the drawbar.

Do-it-yourself trolley for a walk-behind tractor

The simplest trolley for a walk-behind tractor can easily carry loads weighing up to 400 kg.

Structural parts of the bogie

In any bogie, the following components can be conditionally distinguished: a driver's seat mounted on a welded frame, a central frame, the bogie itself with a body and wheels.

What material is the frame of the trolley made of?

The easiest way is to cook it from a channel and a corner, which you can buy at any building materials store. The frame is welded with the utmost care, as it must withstand the stress of driving over bumpy country roads.

Blank for wheel axle

For it, you can take a steel circle with a diameter of at least 30 mm. The axis is connected by welding with a longitudinal hinge and with corner supports. Choose the length of the axle so that the wheels are under the body.

How to make a trolley body

With your own hands, the body is most easily assembled from boards up to 20 mm thick, steel corners are installed at its corners. The boards are bolted to the frame. It is better to make the sides folding: it will be more convenient to unload large volumes of goods.

wheels

You can use them from any agricultural machinery. Wheels from an ordinary sidecar from a motorcycle are quite suitable. The axle will need to be turned to fit the diameter of the bearings in the wheel hubs.

trailer hitch

It is made from any suitable piece of metal by drilling a hole in it in which the hitch can easily pass. It is desirable to make a swivel assembly from a bearing with a suitable diameter, fixing it as firmly as possible by welding.

Cart bottom

Of course, it can be made from edged boards. But a more durable bottom is best made from sheet metal with a preferred sheet thickness of two to three millimeters. Such a cart for a walk-behind tractor, which you yourself can make in two or three days, can last for several years and with little or no repair.

Do-it-yourself trolley for a walk-behind tractor video selection