The correct location of the furnace in the house. Choosing a place for the stove

Even the most cozy house in the country will look inferior without small oven or a fireplace. In addition, without this element, you can forget about comfort in the cold season, and there may be problems with cooking. Therefore, it is worth thinking about installing at least the simplest stove, especially since you can do it yourself.

Stove or fireplace?

The choice to make is not as easy as it might seem. The oven can be called more practical - the traditional one perfectly stores heat, in addition, you can cook or heat food on it without any problems. But from an aesthetic point of view, it loses to the fireplace.

A properly laid out fireplace serves as a real decoration of the room, the view of a living flame is mesmerizing. Nevertheless, it has been scientifically proven that a fireplace is unsuitable for heating a home, because its efficiency does not exceed 15-20%, it ventilates the room rather than heats it.

Exit from difficult situation it can be the combination of a stove and a fireplace into one. In this case, the summer resident receives the benefits of both. True, not every summer resident knows how to install a stove in the country.

Of particular note is the question of choosing a particular stove-fireplace.

You can go two ways:

  • lay out a brick oven-fireplace in the house. At the same time, the slightest violation in the design of the structure can disrupt the aerodynamics of the flow of warm air and greatly complicate the combustion of fuel;
  • install a purchased stove in the house. This solution can be considered optimal for most small country houses.

Not on last place there is also the question of cost. Qualified stove-makers highly value their work, as a result, the cost of a brick fireplace amounts to several tens of thousands of rubles. A purchased fireplace stove is much cheaper, and how to properly install a fireplace stove in the country is described below.

Features of the placement of the furnace in the house

Its placement in the house depends mainly on the purpose:

  • if it will be used mainly for space heating, then a central location can be recommended; (See also the article.)
  • if the main function is cooking and creating a cozy atmosphere, then you can place it in a corner or close to the wall. Part of the thermal energy will be spent on heating the wall, but this is not critical.

The main thing you should pay attention to when installing the stove is fire safety, because country houses are usually built of wood. The basic fire safety requirements are set out in SNiP 2.04.05-91, however, there are instructions for traditional brick ovens.

If you plan to use an electric fireplace, the requirement is somewhat softened. However, in this case, you will need to rent a diesel generator to give.

In general, the standard puts forward the following requirements for the placement of a fireplace stove:

  • in front of the firebox, a fireproof coating must be laid on the floor (suitable a metal sheet);
  • the nearest wall should not be closer than 125 cm from the oven door, and from the ceiling to the top of the oven - at least 120 cm;
  • the distances from the side walls of the furnace to the flammable walls of the room (protected by non-combustible material) are also standardized, the distance from the side to the walls must be at least 50 cm. To protect the floor, the standard requires laying a brick base, and laying a steel sheet in front of the furnace.

With proper thermal insulation, the requirements are somewhat reduced.

With the angular location of the stove fireplace, you can focus on such dimensions of the protective zones.

Installing the stove correctly

The installation technology of the stove is quite simple, it includes the following steps:

  • floor preparation (laying a brick base or installing glass-magnesite sheets);
  • installation on the walls of refractory boards (from superisol);
  • laying on the base of the tile;
  • if desired, refractory plates can also be revetted, their appearance is unsightly;
  • chimney device.

Note!
For wooden houses SNiP 2.04.05-91, for safety reasons, prohibits the use of open fireplaces.
In this case the best choice there will be a fireplace with a refractory glass door.

If desired, you can place the stove so that it will also ventilate the underground. In that case, you need to air vent in the floor was located directly in front of the firebox.

Foundation preparation

The answer to the question of how to install a fireplace stove in the country begins with the creation of a refractory base. If a strong foundation is required for a traditional brick oven (its weight can easily reach a ton), then a heat-insulating layer is sufficient for a purchased fireplace stove.

Sheets of thermal insulation material can be laid directly on the wooden floor. Although you can make a podium from a regular drywall profile.

If there are irregularities on the floor, then you need to get rid of them with a planer, the floor surface should be even. Drywall, plywood sheets or a material such as glass magnesite can be used as a heat insulator. Finished sheets are cut and planted on self-tapping screws.

To protect against fallen coals, tiles or just a metal sheet must be laid on the fixed sheets. The tile, of course, looks much more harmonious, although its price is higher than the cost of a simple metal sheet.

For optimal adhesion, it is recommended to prime the surface of the sheets with Betonkontakt and leave for about a day. After that, the tile is laid - glue is applied to the base with a notched trowel, the tile is laid, the required position is given to it by tapping with a rubber mallet. The constant width of the seam between the tiles is provided by plastic crosses.

Note!
Excess glue from the surface of the tile is best removed immediately with a regular damp cloth.
After hardening, it will be much more difficult to do this.

After the glue dries, all that remains is to wipe the seams with a moisture-resistant grout and arrange the transition to the floor. To do this, you can use any durable material, including ordinary skirting boards.

Heat reflective screen on the walls

The same instructions are used as in the preparation of the base. Sheets of heat-insulating material are attached to the wall, then they are primed and tiled.

If the owner wants to keep the wall in its original form, then heat-insulating partitions can be erected to protect it from stove heat. In this case, an OSB partition is built over the entire height of the room, and only then it is sheathed with a heat insulator. Additional protection for the walls in this case is provided by an air gap between the partition and the wall.

On the picture - wooden walls protected by thermal insulation

It is better to prime surfaces before laying in 2 layers, and only heat-resistant adhesive mixtures are allowed to be used for gluing the tiles themselves. When facing, you need to strive to ensure that the tile is laid with a minimum cut, so there will be less waste.

Places where the heat-reflecting screen goes into the wall can be finished with the same decorative elements that were used to finish the floor.

Recently, sandwich chimneys have been used to remove smoke. They are delivered in the form of ready-made parts, from which you just need to assemble a one-piece structure with your own hands. And the basic rules for the placement of chimneys are indicated in SNiP 41-01-2003 and the rules of PPB 01-93.

Chimneys of this type are suitable for most furnaces, the inner part is made of metal with a high content of titanium, nickel, chromium and is able to withstand temperatures of about 750ᵒС. The outer layer is made of ordinary stainless steel, a heat insulator is located between the metal layers, thanks to which the pipe practically does not heat up.

The selection of the chimney section is carried out depending on the power of the furnace:

  • for furnaces with a thermal power of 5.2 - 7.0 kW, the pipe section should not be lower than 0.14x0.27 m;
  • with a power of 3.5 - 5.2 kW, the minimum cross section is 0.14x0.2 m;
  • with a power of up to 3.5 kW, it is allowed to use 0.14x0.14 m chimneys.

Purely technically, it is much easier to bring the chimney through the wall to the outside and raise it to the desired height there. If you bring it out through the ceiling, then the complexity of the work increases. Country houses from block containers from this point of view create additional complexity - it is difficult to raise the chimney to the required height.

Installation of the chimney is carried out in the following sequence:

  • the first section of the chimney without insulation is connected to the outlet pipe of the furnace;

Note!
The first section should always be without insulation.
Otherwise, the insulation will simply sinter into stone and at least damage thin steel.

  • a hole is made in the wall for a pipe. You can additionally lay a layer of thermal insulation around the chimney. The inlet and outlet are additionally reinforced with metal sheets;
  • the chimney rises to a height of 4-5 meters, on the way up it is additionally attached to the wall of the house with brackets;
  • at the top of the chimney, a spark arrester in the form of a fine mesh is mounted, protective elements from moisture and snow getting inside.

For many people, the stove symbolizes comfort. Fire creates an environment that promotes relaxation for the soul. Recently, metal aggregates have been in the greatest demand. And the reason for this is both reliability and high specifications. Like any heating device, a metal stove is mounted in accordance with fire safety standards and regulations. Installation requirements in wooden houses are undoubtedly tougher. Competent installation will not only help to avoid accidents, but also help to maximize the efficiency of the unit. The article will discuss how to install a metal furnace.

Modern heating metal stove

This equipment is widely used for heating baths, cottages, work trailers and other small areas.

Furnace metal photo


Over the years of “evolution”, it has undergone many changes, which positively affected the following parameters and nuances:

  • functionality. Today, manufacturers offer models that operate in different temperature conditions. Such parameters allow you to choose the optimal microclimate;
  • efficiency. The advanced design provides the ability to select or combine different fuel selections, achieving efficient space heating. Due to the increased area of ​​​​the furnace, the fuel is completely burned, which in turn increases the efficiency;
  • equipment. The equipment can be supplemented with a tank for heating water, which is important not only for baths, but also for residential buildings in summer cottages or garden plots;
  • design. The lineup allows you to choose a product in a stylish design. Ergonomic shape for high efficiency - perfect combination. Metal devices decorated with decorative elements made of glass or forged parts.

Type of fuel for a metal furnace

This versatile heating source can be powered by different kind fuel:

  • electrical models are equipped with a whole range of functions designed to increase the comfort of use (remote control panel, panel for setting tasks, etc.). Heating elements quickly provide the required temperature. However, when the electricity is turned off, you will not be able to enjoy the heat. To solve the problem, it is recommended to install a generator. The cost of such furnaces is 12-15 thousand rubles;
  • gas equipment thanks to the burner and thermostat, they allow you to adjust the intensity of combustion. It has reliable system security: automatic sensors and controllers that are triggered under force majeure circumstances. The units are quite economical, but in the absence of natural gas, it will be necessary to purchase liquefied propane-butane. The price varies between 15-17 thousand rubles;

  • wood stoves are the most popular. This factor is due to simple maintenance and repair, as well as the available type of fuel. There are models on the market that imitate a fireplace. The equipment heats up the room pretty quickly. Chimneys work for the complete removal of combustion products. The cost of such heat generators starts from 12 thousand rubles;

  • furnaces fueled by fuel oil, diesel fuel and a special distilled composition are characterized by a high degree of security. In addition, such devices are economical in view of the raw materials used. Some models are equipped with a toggle switch for switching from one type of fuel to another. The simplest units will cost only 2,000 rubles.

Choosing a metal stove for the home

A metal furnace should be selected based on indicators such as:

  • heating rate of a certain area;
  • maximum and minimum temperature that the hardware can support;
  • the size of the furnace and the unit itself;
  • metal alloy used for manufacturing;
  • door modification;
  • ease of operation and maintenance.

Basically, equipment made of cast iron, black and stainless steel is presented on the market. In terms of dimensions, it is divided into:

  • mini-ovens with space heating up to 12 sq.m.;
  • standard ovens for maintaining the temperature at 12-24 sq.m.;
  • large stoves capable of heating the air in areas over 24 sq.m.

For cladding, ceramics and soapstone are used in their different modifications. Such materials increase the initial warm-up of thermal equipment, but significantly reduce the unpleasant burning heat and increase the heat release time.

In some models stone cladding plays only an aesthetic role, without affecting the physical and technical performance of devices. Decorative panels are removable, so it will be easy to dismantle them and install products with a new design, radically changing the interior of the room.

A place for installing a metal furnace with your own hands

  • The technical characteristics of the heating unit are great importance but no less important is its location. After all, heat transfer is carried out not only by convective air masses, but also by radiation emanating from the walls of the device.
  • If a brick oven gives out weak heat and its walls do not normally warm up above 90 degrees, then a metal product emits rather hard radiation and the walls of the structure heat up to 500-600 degrees.
  • The place for installation is determined both during the design of the premises, and after the construction of the house, bath. The main criterion is the location of window and doorways. Only in this case it is possible to predict in which direction the cold air currents will move.
  • Before installation, plan and working space for fuel. The type of fuel does not matter, it is important to pre-calculate the path of the carrier and its storage near the heating unit.

Fire safety

Knowing and observing fire safety measures, it will be possible to install the stove in rooms built from any materials, including wood. Although both brick and block structures are subject to fire hazards. Therefore, strictly follow all the requirements.

  • The unit is installed on a floor lined with non-combustible materials. It may be ordinary concrete screed, metal sheet, ceramic tile, etc. The edges of the surface should protrude at least 50-70 cm from the body of the device.
  • The walls adjacent to the stove and nearby furniture are insulated with heat-resistant material, such as asbestos sheets or superisol, so you can reduce the required distance (1 m) from the wall to rear wall cases up to 20 cm.
  • between equipment and wooden surfaces(walls or the same furniture) should be at least half a meter, optimally 60-70 cm.
  • Much attention is paid to the arrangement of the chimney system. Use additional elements protection that prevents clogging of the pipe and does not allow birds to build nests, which is especially important for vertically located channels.

  • The distance between the ceiling and the upper part of the body of the heating unit must be at least 1.2 m, and from the firebox door to the opposite wall - 1.3 m.
  • In order to avoid accidents, especially if there are children in the family, the equipment is protected by a decorative "fence".
  • Some models provide for the installation of channels in the walls for heating neighboring rooms. In such cases, heat-resistant Decoration Materials. Recommendations are described in detail in the instructions supplied with each unit.

Preparing the floor and walls before installing a metal stove in the house

  • Walls protected by insulating materials do not look attractive. Therefore, they are most often decorated ceramic tiles, and floor tiles from the same collection will help support the “coziness corner”.
  • Ceramics are laid on the concrete floor immediately, and if it is a wooden base, then glass-magnesite, plywood or drywall sheet. The material is screwed with self-tapping screws directly to the floorboards. The surface is treated with soil and left for a day until completely dry.
  • Tile adhesive is applied with a notched trowel, this tool will allow you to achieve the same layer thickness. The first row is laid as evenly as possible, here a level is used to level the surface both horizontally and vertically. The quality of the entire surface depends on how flawlessly the row is laid out.

  • Ceramic products are mounted without seams or with them. The latter option will help hide layout errors by decreasing or increasing the distance between them accordingly.
  • After 2 days, the construction crosses are removed, and the seams are filled with grout. To move from tiles to the main floor material, decorative thresholds or corners are used.
  • In the same way, tiles are installed on the walls. Heat-resistant mastic is applied to ceramics with five points. The bottom row does not have to be adjusted horizontally if floor tiles was installed according to the rules.
  • Cutting products to size is best done using a stencil made of thick cardboard. The edges of the masonry are edged with a special profile, combined with a threshold or a plinth.

Installing a metal stove in a wooden house

Depending on the model, one or another type of connection, assembly of elements will be required. Each manufacturer tries to present equipment with minimum set details. All installation information detailed diagrams attached to the heating unit.

  • In most cases, the equipment only needs to be mounted on a prepared site. The complexity of the installation lies in the correct connection and well-located exit of the chimney channel.

  • The chimney can run horizontally or vertically. Thanks to a large set of pipe elements, its exit can be carried out at different angles. It is worth noting that the exit through the wall is gaining popularity, but this direction of the channel is not suitable for all furnaces.
  • For compact models, double-walled stainless steel pipes insulated with basalt wool. In such products are characterized by less condensation and soot settling.
  • The preparation of holes for the pipe is carried out immediately before its installation. To do this, collect the chimney channel and calculate the point of its exit. The hole diameter must be in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • If there is a ready-made chimney, then the pipe is passed through the shaft. If the diameters do not match, special adapters (glasses) are used. Should not be applied complex options channel directions. Numerous turns will serve as points of accumulation of fuel combustion residues.

  • The chimney is starting to be assembled indoors. To the outlet of the housing, which can be located on top of the housing or on its rear part, a pipe is fixed. A gate is installed above, which serves to regulate traction.
  • If the channel will pass under a slope, then a half-bend with the desired degree is used. Heat-resistant materials are used for sealing joints. If necessary, the so-called "glass" is mounted, which connects pipes of different sections.
  • At the point of entry of the chimney in the wall or ceiling is mounted metal plate. A technical hole is cut out in it equal to the diameter of the channel. This element can be made in the form of a square flange. The height of the sides must correspond to the thickness of the interfloor ceiling or wall.

  • The resulting "box" is attached to the surface, a chimney is passed into the hole (from the street to the room). The empty space between the flange walls and the double-walled pipe is filled with basalt wool. The double-walled channel is connected to the adapter (glass) with the help of clamps.
  • When the chimney exits into the wall from the side of the street, a tee is installed on the pipe, from which a vertical channel will go. His secure fastening provide wall brackets. To protect against the ingress of leaves, dry branches, the head is equipped with a deflector. This element will not allow birds to build nests at the end of the pipe.

Brickwork for a metal furnace

A metal furnace, with all its virtues, emits too hard radiation, which does not allow you to breathe freely in its immediate vicinity. The solution to this problem is to clad the equipment with solid brick masonry.

  • Before work, you need to make sure that the floor can withstand an impressive weight, sometimes reaching half a ton. When marking, a gap of 3-8 cm is observed between the body of the unit and the future wall.
  • A metal sheet 2-4 mm thick is laid on wooden floors, which in turn is covered with asbestos. The width of the lining is taken with the calculation of the thickness of the bricks themselves. If the base is made of concrete or ceramic slabs, then there is no need for preparation.
  • The walls rise to half a brick. The solution is kneaded on the basis of clay mixed with sand, its density should be of medium density. Work is carried out according to all the canons of the usual brickwork, that is, with the observance of leveling along the planes and dressing of the seams.

  • In the second row, technological holes are made on all 3 walls, about half a brick for high-quality air exchange. They also leave holes for the blower, doors and other structural elements of the furnace.
  • When the height of the wall reaches the top of the firebox door, corners of their metal are placed on the brick blocks, which will distribute the load given out by subsequent rows. Used to decorate the top different variants, for example: left open or performed in an arcuate form.

The cost of work in specialized firms

  • If for some reason you decide to shift all of the above actions onto the shoulders of professionals, then the installation of equipment will cost 7-10 thousand rubles. Installation work in wooden houses will be a little more expensive. This is due to the additional arrangement of insulation.
  • The price of laying a chimney channel through interfloor ceilings and roofing will be from 25 to 40 thousand rubles. depending on the complexity of the work being done. If the chimney goes through outer wall, you will have to pay for the installation of about 5-10 thousand rubles, where the final cost will be determined by the length of the pipe.
  • Save on work and install the thermal unit on your own or seek help from specialized organizations, of course, only the owner decides. The main thing is that the installation of the furnace itself and the chimney system is carried out in accordance with fire safety standards.

Compliance with the rules will help to avoid terrible consequences, we are talking not only about the possible loss of real estate, but also the health and lives of relatives and friends.

Proper installation of stoves - fireplaces, even in wooden, even in stone houses is the guarantee of your safety. And yet, it is an opportunity to heat your house in any frost with a minimum laying of firewood. That is, the correct installation of the stove in the house will allow you to maximize the high efficiency of modern steel and cast iron stoves - fireplaces. And of course, the installation of stoves in wooden house must be carried out in accordance with the Fire Safety Standards (NPB). Although this also applies to houses on wooden frame, and to any others.

Where is the best place to put a stove in the house?

The correct location of the stove in the house is the basis of good air heating. As you know, it heats the premises of the house not only due to air convective flows, but also due to the transfer of part of the heat by radiation.

If the radiant energy from a brick oven is rather weak, “blurred”, then the radiation from a metal heating furnace is rather hard. This is due to the fact that the outside temperature of steel or cast iron oven walls is 6-8 times higher than the outside temperature of a brick oven.

A metal furnace, depending on the combustion modes, heats up to 450-600 degrees on the outer walls. While the maximum temperature of the outer walls of a brick kiln in normal mode does not even reach 90 degrees.

Therefore, the radiant component of the heating of steel or cast iron oven should be used as much as possible at its . There should be no screens between the oven and all surfaces in the heated room. Sometimes a metal furnace is lined with brick walls, supposedly for better heat accumulation. However, this is wrong.

The installation of heating furnaces made of metal, as well as brick ones, should be carried out after the main openings of windows and doors in the house are equipped. Then it becomes clear how cold air flows will be directed.

Before you put the stove in the house, you should draw a diagram of the distribution and movement of air flows, indicate possible drafts on it. And also simulate situations when window vents are open or a door to the street or to a cold vestibule is ajar.

As you can see, the question of where to install the stove in the house is removed by itself after studying the preliminary air flow pattern in the heated room.

What to do if the installation of a fireplace - stove is supposed, for example, in great hall, but you still need to heat a couple of rooms on the floor - the kitchen and the library?

In this case, the installation of a fireplace-stove must be accompanied by the installation of air ducts from it. Before you install the heating stove, you draw a diagram of the ducting from it to two or three additional rooms. Next, mount. They can be made from an ordinary metal corrugated pipe.

Proper installation of stoves - fireplaces also implies preliminary planning of the working space in front of the stove and ways to bring fuel. It doesn't matter if it's chopped chopped firewood or euro briquettes. The important thing is that somehow they will need to be brought and stored somewhere in front of the firebox.

Fire safety standards when installing a stove - fireplace

Knowing how to properly install a stove - fireplace, you can install this heat generator in any house - wooden, on a wooden frame or in a house insulated with combustible insulation. It's all about complying with the Fire Safety Regulations (FPB), which allow, while maintaining safe distances and using non-combustible insulating materials, install a stove in a house made of wood.

In general, the installation of stoves in a wooden house is a matter for professional stove-setters or for certified specialists from a company that supplies stoves and fireplaces. Because the incorrect installation of a stove - a fireplace with your own hands in a brick or stone house does not carry such a danger as, for example, in a wooden one.

Although in a house made of non-combustible material, a fire is a terrible thing. God bless you from this experience!

Therefore, I repeat once again, if you want to install a stove - a fireplace in a country house or in a wooden house, then ten times you need to check how they are observed.

Installation of stoves in a wooden house must be carried out in compliance with the following requirements:

  • From the walls metal furnace to walls made of combustible material should be at least 0.5 meters.
  • If the wall is protected by mineralite and steel sheet or plaster with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm, then the distance can be reduced to 0.4 meters.
  • From the top of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 1.2 meters.
  • From the furnace door to the opposite wall should be at least 1.3 meters.
  • A sheet of metal should lie in front of the furnace door for a length of 0.7 meters. Its width is not less than 0.5 meters.

If the chimney has to be led through the floors and the roof, then it will cost you 25,000-40,000 rubles, depending on the number of penetrations through the floors and the roofing material.

The installation of stoves in a wooden house, which the company will perform, will additionally cost you another 7,000-10,000 rubles. This is due to the additional thermal insulation of structures and surfaces made of combustible materials, which include wood.

More on this topic on our website:


  1. Despite the abundance of ovens industrial production, brick ovens and today remain a unique functional and interior solution for modern ...

  2. Corner fireplaces are in great demand among owners of suburban real estate. Such models fit perfectly into the interior of the premises due to their corner design, a...

  3. Many city dwellers choose to live outside the city. Heating of suburban housing is the first problem that owners face. One of the most...

  4. Why are wood stoves good? long burning for home heating? What are the advantages of such a combustion process over conventional furnaces? What types...

K category: Furnaces

The location of the ovens in the room

When constructing a furnace in a building, it is necessary to take into account its architecture, number of storeys, material and dimensions of the building envelope - all this matters. In turn, stove heating technology and kiln production technology significantly affect the layout and use of building structures building. Furnaces often serve as interior decoration.

In rural areas, the main type of residential building is a manor house, usually equipped with heating stoves. There are the following types of houses in accordance with the number of floors: one-story with the location of the premises on one and two levels; two-story with the location of the premises on two levels, with an attic, as well as with incomplete development of the second floor.

Modern manor houses are equipped with semi-detached or detached outbuildings, which house a kitchen with an oven for cooking food. livestock. AT last years Stove heating is becoming more and more common in the houses of gardening and dacha cooperatives.

Before proceeding with the laying of the furnace, it is necessary to determine its place in the room. Heating stoves are usually located in the corner of the room, closer to the main inner wall and at the same time to front door so as not to carry fuel across the room. They are installed so that all surfaces can give off heat to the room and there is access for free inspection of the furnace and systematic dust removal. There should be as few stoves and chimneys as possible, especially in buildings with non-permanent walls in which chimneys cannot be arranged.

In buildings where there are no places for installing heating stoves, their location is determined by the intended location of the chimney. It is advisable to place them near the internal main walls, where smoke channels are usually arranged. The oven is placed in such a way that its entire outside surface warmed the largest number premises, occupying a minimum usable area.

When choosing the location of heating furnaces, it must be taken into account that the heat transfer of their surfaces facing each room must correspond to the heat loss of these rooms.

For heating one room, it is not recommended to install the stove close to the walls, since only one or two sides of the stove will give off heat to the outside, the rest is wasted, which causes increased fuel consumption. The most practical is the open installation of a heating furnace, in which its entire array gives off heat directly to the room (Fig. 1, a and b). An air gap remains between the wall of the building and the side walls of the furnace, the width of which is 0.14-2 m. Reducing the width negatively affects the heat transfer of the wall located in the retreat, and an increase is not allowed, since the length of the changeover sleeves for connecting the last smoke circuit of the furnace into the chimney or chimney should not exceed 2 m.

For heating two adjacent rooms, it is most convenient to place the stove in an internal partition (Fig. 1, c). On fig. 1, d shows a corner (rectangular) stove located in the internal partitions of the building and heating three adjacent rooms. The main advantage of this placement of furnaces is the ease of erecting a chimney, which is based on one of the internal partitions.

Rice. 1. Options for placing stoves in the room: a, 6 - with an indent near the wall; c, d, e - in the opening inner wall or in partitions for heating adjacent rooms; e, f-treat and a fireplace in buildings of a country (garden) type with non-residential premises

At the same time, it is taken into account that the thickness of the partition on which the chimney is erected must be at least 0.25 m (1 brick). A four-room apartment can also be heated by one heating stove (Fig. 1, e).

For heating the veranda and two small rooms for summer cottages or garden houses it is recommended to use the furnace placement option shown in fig. 1, f. With this arrangement, the front wall of the furnace, on which the furnace and blower doors are installed, goes into the veranda room, and the back and side walls are located between the internal partitions. The usable area of ​​the premises is saved as much as possible, the products of combustion of fuel (ash, smoke) do not pollute living rooms.

Rice. 2. Chart for the selection and calculation of the size of the furnace

The combined option of installing a stove and a fireplace in adjacent rooms of country and garden houses is widespread, where the products of fuel combustion are discharged into one common chimney (Fig. 1, g). So you can have two heating stoves.

For more convenient maintenance and heating, the stove is installed deep in the room, but closer to the door, which allows you to free up part of the usable area. At overhauls buildings, stoves should be installed as close as possible to the existing chimney so that it can be fired from a corridor or other non-residential premises.

The selection of the dimensions of the furnace is the main task in creating an optimal microclimate in the premises, the main parameter of which is the temperature of the internal environment. The stove should evenly heat the indoor air throughout the entire heating period, ensure fire safety and an explosion-proof environment, create convenience during operation and repair, contribute to the integrity of the architectural design of the building, allow the use of local fuel, and not pollute the atmospheric air.

The type of heating furnace is chosen so that the average hourly heat transfer is equal to the heat loss of the heated premises. Important criterion for the selection of batch furnaces - the amplitude of fluctuations in the air temperature in the premises, which should not exceed ± 3 ° during the day. One stove heats, as a rule, no more than three rooms.

When calculating heating, it is necessary to know the heat losses of all types of house structures: walls, doors, window openings, ceilings, materials from which the walls are made, height, outside air temperature, etc. If the design and location are incorrectly calculated or chosen, it will emit too much heat or, conversely, little.

The simplest ways to determine the size of furnaces.

Option 1. According to the schedule (Fig. 2, a), it is possible to approximately determine the required area of ​​​​the heated surface (mirror) of the furnace for areas with an estimated winter outdoor temperature in the range of -25-35 °. For example, we select a stove for simultaneous heating common room and two bedrooms. For a corner common room with an area of ​​​​18 m2, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mirror of the furnace should be about 4.5 m2, for corner bedroom 12 m2-2.5 m2, for an ordinary bedroom 10 m2-1.4 m2. total area the furnace mirror will be 8.4 m2 (4.5 + 2.5 + 1.4), and its perimeter (at a conditional height of 2 m) is 4.2 m. If we take into account that part of the furnace will be embedded on both sides in the middle wall thickness of 10 cm, the total perimeter of the furnace should be increased to 4.8 m. This is a large furnace, its dimensions are 64 X 181, 77 X 168 or 90 X 155 cm. The heat output of such a furnace will be about 6978 W (6000 kcal / h).

Option 2. Stoves are selected according to the volume of the building, which is determined by the outer perimeter and then multiplied by 21 - the amount of heat in kilocalories required to heat 1 m2 of the building to a temperature of 18 ° at outdoor temperature air -30 °С. According to these data, the required heat transfer of the furnace is found.

For a house of 6.6X7.4 m and a height of 3 m (brick walls, thickness 54 cm, two living rooms, a kitchen and an entrance hall), the stove for the kitchen and entrance hall is calculated as follows (Fig. 2, b).

Furnace heat output -73.26X 21 \u003d 1789 W (1538 kcal / h), 1 m2 of the furnace mirror radiates an average of 349 W (300 kcal / h). Furnace heating area (mirror area) -1789 (1538): 349 (300) = 5.1 m2.

To determine the size of the oven, the area of ​​the mirror must be divided by the active height of the oven, i.e. the height that is being heated (2.2 m). The perimeter of the furnace is 5.1:2.2=2.3m (2.5 m). We divide this value by two and get the length of the two sides of the furnace: 2.5: 2 = 1.25 m. If the width of the furnace is 0.51 m, its length should be 0.64 m. Thus, you can choose the size of the furnace for any room.

In addition to the oven, the kitchen has a stove that can emit 697-10467 W (600-900 kcal / h) with two fireboxes per day. You can put a heating shield on it, powered by a stove, which emits up to 1369 W (1200 kcal / h) of heat. There are shields with a stove and with a separate firebox, their heat transfer is even higher.

Option 3. From the table. 1 shows that the heat loss of the walls at different outdoor temperatures is not the same, therefore, in the calculations (over 31 °), three units are added for every two degrees.

Option 4. Determination of heat losses and selection of a stove for a one-story log house made of logs 25 cm thick with one-sided plaster, wooden partitions, 1 m surface, according to the table. 1: for a wall - 60 W (52 kcal / h), a window -116 W (100 kcal / h), an attic floor (ceiling) -30 W (26 kcal / h), an insulated floor - 22 W (19 kcal / h ) per 1 m2.

General room heat loss, W (kcal/h):
External walls 16.3X60(52) =978 (848)
Gender 9X22(19) = 198(171)
Ceiling 9X30(26) =270(234)
Window 1.7X116(100) = 197(170)
Total 1643(1423)

For such a heat consumption, a heating stove with a heat output of 1744 W (1500 kcal / h) or a slightly larger one, for example, a rectangular plastered one, with a size of 5XX X 770 mm, with heat output at two fireboxes per day 2046 W (1760 kcal / h) is needed.



- The location of the stoves in the room

RTIK-5 is ready In order for the furnace to give greatest effect from your presence in the house, it must be properly positioned. Traditionally, the stove was placed in such a way as to be most useful to the inhabitants. She played the role of not only a heater, but also an important sacral device that enlivens the living space. She was precisely the core, the heart of the house, igniting and filling it with her special energy. We’ll talk about its hidden meaning another time, but for now let’s decide on its optimal position.

Each case of internal space arrangement is special and should always be decided individually, taking into account many conditions and wishes of future inhabitants. But still, the basis will be such a provision that will take into account all the conditions in the best possible way: both physical (heat-technical), and the wishes and preferences of customers.

If the stove must heat a small isolated room (one room), well insulated, then the stove can stand anywhere, and its place in the house is determined simply by the convenience of its use within the framework of the tasks assigned to it.

If she only heating(OIK), and the premises are only residential, without a kitchen and other economic processes, it is enough that the stove is located at the minimum permitted distance from combustible surfaces. According to the rules fire safety- PPD - for brick ovens with a wall thickness of half a brick (12 cm), this is 38 cm from the source of fire, that is, the distance between the outer wall of the furnace and the wall of the room is 25 cm. This distance is also sufficient to control the condition of the seams of the wall adjacent To home. If the wall of the house is insulated with refractory materials (for example, mineralite), it can be closer, up to 13 cm, but then it will be difficult to grease cracks in the furnace wall, if they appear. Therefore, it is better to leave 25 cm.

If the oven is heating and cooking (HVIK), that is, with a stove or vault for cooking, with an oven or drying panels, then it is placed closer to the kitchen or kitchen part of the common room.

If the stove must heat adjacent rooms or other rooms, it is positioned so that it goes out to the appropriate places with its sides, then it is fully or partially built into the dividing partitions (observing, of course, the PPB)

When a register with a coolant and external heating radiators is supposed to be inserted into the furnace, then the place of the furnace in the house can be chosen differently - you have more room for maneuver, the furnace can be shifted closer from the optimal thermotechnical sense in one or another wall of the room, freeing up the central space for other uses.

So we determine the preliminary place for the oven. Its exact location will be given to us beams of upper floors and roof truss system. The fact is that we must bring the pipe to the roof in such a way that it passes between ceiling beams and rafters at a sufficient distance from the point of view of the PPB. Of course, we will also perform roofing using traditional or modern refractory insulation (basalt wool, basalt cardboard, super strength, mineralite, etc.), but still, a minimum space must be maintained around the pipe, and the pipe should not come into contact, and even more so rest against the beams and rafters.

How to find a place for the oven

Foundation drawing - side and top view If the stove is designed before the construction of the ceilings and the roof begins, then on the foundation plan we mark the exit of the chimney from the future furnace and set the indents so that the ceiling beams and rafters do not overlap these indents. (in the figure, the reference point is the red dot)

If the furnace is built into an already erected frame, with laid ceiling beams and finished roof, then we proceed differently. We mark on the plan the preliminary location of the furnace and project a grid of floors (beams and rafters) onto it, determining the places where the pipe can pass. Then we design the furnace based on these parameters. If such a grid gives options, we choose the location of the future pipe so that it is located closer to the ridge (the smaller the pipe is outside, the longer it will last without the need for repair.

Having marked the location on the drawing, using a plumb line, we check the correctness of the calculations performed directly on the object. After that, you can mark out a place for the foundation, keeping in mind that its dimensions should be several more area oven - 5 cm in each direction is enough, that is, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe oven is 1 m2 (1x1), the foundation area will be 1.1 m2 (1.1x1.1). In this case, we are talking about the foundation. Dimensionsslabs under the foundation , compensating for the heaving of the soil will be different, larger (depending on your specific conditions).

Second important point under the stove: it should not touch or be poured as one unit with the foundation of the house itself. Why is it important? If the heaving of the soil is not sufficiently taken into account when designing and pouring the foundation of the house, the foundation may move when the soil freezes and thaws, they will pull the furnace foundation along with them. By placing the foundation separately, or at least not tying it to the main foundation, we protect the stove from such provocations of the soil. In this case, if the ground movements have any effect on our stove, it, working as a whole, will smooth out distortions and save the stove from uneven loads that could lead to cracking and even destruction.

The exception is the pile foundation, fastened with a frame grillage- in this case, the base for the furnace can be placed on a metal (or concrete) frame welded to metal beams grillage or laid on concrete slabs of the basement floor. If necessary, the space for the oven in this case can be further strengthened with metal corners laid in the seams between the preparatory brick rows. The laying of such rows is carried out on a cement mortar.

By following these simple rules and conditions, you will build a stove that will serve you faithfully for many years, enlivening the living space with its fire and warmth and delighting the household with its reliable work.

Loading...Loading...