Fastening wooden steps of stairs to metal plates. Installation of a wooden staircase: how to fix a pole on the wall, installation and repair, second floor in a house, video

Stairs between floors country houses equipped with load-bearing beams, which are kosour or bowstring. Both designs are quite reliable, but differ in the way the steps are attached to the beams. The best way to adapt to the surrounding interior is a staircase with a bowstring, in which the step must be fixed into the internal grooves.

The outer part hides the docking points, which does not spoil the appearance of the structure. The view of the stairs is even and inclined, the steps are located at the ends between the boards. You can buy a ready-made wooden or metal kosour with a serrated edge, while fastening is carried out on the teeth for the boards.

The size of the stairs with a stringer is more compact, but less reliable. The owners of high-rise housing choose different ways to fasten the steps to the bowstring of a wooden staircase, while making them open or closed, with the organization of a riser. You can always buy finished project, but if desired, all work can be done by hand.

Staircase with bowstring

The staircase will be more reliable and convenient during active use if a fence is attached to it with balusters. Everyone support post The head is attached vertically to the handrail, connecting below to the beam in increments of no more than 15 centimeters. Such fastening is necessary for the safe placement of the fence and minimum stock strength.

The installation of a wooden staircase is carried out independently in a short time, but it is necessary to carefully choose the wood for the structure in order to prevent cracking and resin release over time. Reliable material and competent calculation allow you to install the ladder on long time, while none of the details will let the owner down in terms of service life. Railings and landings, flights of stairs to any floor must be fixed with balusters, so the installation of this element is especially important.

It is possible to fasten balusters on stairs, at the base of which there is a bowstring, in any place, since fastening is carried out not on a step, but on a beam. Rack installation is usually done with outer side in the sidewall of the carrier beam. In this case, screws are used, which are screwed into the grooves and covered with decorative dowels. On top of the edge on the lamella, a baluster is attached through a board, the size of which is larger than the bowstring. Such a baluster at the bottom has a groove that is put on the bowstring. Racks are screwed on top of this structure using self-tapping screws.

Experts recommend fixing the structure when attached to the bowstring with carpentry glue (to splice them together), and fastening with clamps. Balusters are planted on the beam with the help of dowels, round spikes for fasteners. It is necessary to pre-make a hole for them in the rack, avoiding backlash. The dowels are inserted tightly into the racks and fixed with an adhesive solution. The bowstring and railing are connected by the lower parts of the dowels.

How to fasten the racks to the bowstring?

To the surface of the support beam of the rack, you need to fasten with studs. This will require conventional drill and end saw. From the materials you will need the bowstring itself, fence posts, galvanized studs with a thread of at least M6, PVA glue in a tube. Typical work sequence:

It is necessary to mark the places for attaching the railing in the form of racks. If a complex design is chosen, it is recommended that the project be checked by professionals;
It is recommended to securely fasten the rack and cut off its lower corners, maintaining the angle of the inclined beam;
Make holes with a diameter of 12 mm for a length of 80 mm;
Drown the studs in the adhesive and insert into the holes, leaving 7 centimeters out;
Make holes in the bowstring, for this, the drill bit of the drill must be fixed up to 14 mm. Depth of work - 10cm;
Balusters are inserted with studs, while the fixation process comes from the extreme pillars.

To the bowstring of the stairs, the step is attached by tie-in or mounting on supporting parts. These include special bars that are attached to the beam with screws on the tread. The tread itself is attached to the supports with the same screws.

Some experts recommend splicing a step. In this case, short bars are used for gluing, which makes the surface not solid, but with longitudinal and transverse seams. You can splice in a checkerboard pattern, which resembles the connection of parquet.

It is allowed to arrange a staircase with steps cut into the bowstring with grooves 2 cm deep. It is necessary to first mark them, stepping back from the edge of the edge, then insert a tread with a riser inside. by the most in a simple way is screwing the board from the end with a screw.

The ladder and its bowstring will be reliable and safe if the bowstrings are docked on the balusters. In this case, there are several sections in the beam, the fastening of which is made in baluster grooves.

All incoming load from the top of the stairs is transferred to the fence posts, so during operation the entire structure becomes a single system. Balusters, step and bowstring will be interconnected. The choice of step type does not affect the strength of the structure, but if the steps are spliced together, the surface characteristics will be significantly improved.

Methods for attaching steps to a bowstring ladder

Mortise Mount

You can make a mortise-type mount yourself using a drill and manual frezer, chisel and jigsaw, screwdriver. It is also worth preparing screws, plywood, wood slats, risers and treads.

The bowstring must be marked with a plywood template, in which the tread is cut with or without a riser according to the size of the march;
Apply the reference line with an indent from the edge of the edge by 50mm;
Make fastening rails of the guide type, sliding along the top of the board. The template moves along the material in such a way that the tops of the zigzags of the step are located along the reference line;
Make grooves in the bowstring, with obligatory observance angle to the location of the fibers of the material. A reliable way to get the groove right is to use a stencil with a hole in the plywood. In this case, with a jigsaw and a drill, you can make the desired hole size;
The beam is placed on the goats, a stencil is placed on top of it so that the tread matches, a mount is made;
With a milling cutter in the clockwise direction, a groove is cut 20 cm deep, after which the corners are processed with a chisel;
Having made the required number of grooves, the ladder is assembled, each step in the groove is smeared with glue;
The risers and treads need to be fixed with a screw, each step is fastened to the bowstring with screws from the outside. A decorative cap is installed over the fastener.

Mounting with supports

Fastening steps using metal supports does not require milling. Of the tools you need only a hammer and a drill, nails, screws and metal corners. It is necessary to mark the tread according to the plywood template, then nail the support bar. Metal corners are fixed with screws using prepared holes. Each step is connected to the supporting element with a screw.

A staircase with a one-sided bowstring, when the second function is performed by a wall, is done as a fastening of steps and balusters. To do this, you need to make a bowstring, in which cut the mortise grooves with a milling cutter. Treads and risers are assembled into steps. The bottom of the step is attached to the groove on the support beam on one side, and on the other - to the baluster.

The lower racks are bolted to the floor, connecting the base of the lower step with screws. The installation of the second stage is carried out, fixed to the fence post (handrail). The back of the lower step is needed to support the front of the next step, and the middle is fixed to the uprights. This principle works for all steps in the ladder.

A ladder is a real constructor that can be assembled in several ways from different or identical elements, using different fastening methods and materials. And in most cases, the "constructor" can be assembled independently.

Stair elements

The main and obligatory leaving are supports, steps and railings. The shape of the elements is noticeably different.

Kosour - a supporting inclined sawtooth beam, to which treads are attached. It can be one or more, steps are installed on it from above.
The bowstring is an inclined straight beam, but at the same time the tread is fixed between two supports.
Step - a flat element of the stairs, which is supported during movement.
Railing - stair railing.

The methods of attaching elements to each other may be different, therefore, for example, load-bearing beams, despite their role as a support, may be absent altogether.

Wall - treads can be installed in a load-bearing wall. On the opposite side of the stairs, the steps are fastened together with bolts.
Modules - a connecting element that fastens the treads together and acts as a support beam. For this design, the support on the wall is made partially.
Frame - a metal structure consisting of a supporting beam with a minimum width of 12-18 cm, and stepped bases

Mounting steps on the kosour and bowstring

Bearing beams are an indispensable component of wooden stairs, therefore, connection methods are described for wooden elements.

The fixation of the tread on the beam depends on the method of its manufacture.

In a board of the appropriate size, zigzag ledges are cut according to the calculations. Holes are made in the treads, then the stepped elements are installed on the stringers and fixed with screws. From above, the screws are covered with wooden plugs. In the photo - the traditional way of installation on the kosour.
You can do otherwise: attach rectangular supports to the spikes to the support beam, and then mount treads on the supports.

Other methods are used to fix the elements to the bowstring.

On the inside of the board, grooves are cut 2-3 cm deep under the steps and risers, if they are provided for by the project. The product is assembled and then completely installed in the opening.
1. The groove may have open edges. In this case, the stepped element is pushed to the desired depth into the bowstrings already in place. In both cases described, a screed is recommended.
2. With inside beams are first mounted additional supports - wooden bars, a metal corner, and then treads are attached to the supports.

Installation of steps in the wall

The main condition is that the wall to which the installation is made must be load-bearing. Installation on partitions is not allowed.

Closing - grooves of the required depth are knocked out. Treads are inserted into the recesses with the end side and sealed with cement. This is the most reliable method, although it has one drawback: while using the stairs, the vibration is transmitted to the wall, so the sound of footsteps is heard throughout the house.
Mounting on brackets - holes are made for special anchors, steps are mounted to the latter through the brackets. In the photo - a variant of the cantilever staircase.
Installation through a wooden beam - used for wooden structures. A beam is attached to the wall, which essentially acts as a bowstring, and then treads are placed on it.

On the opposite side, the edges of the elements are connected with the help of bolts - metal threaded rods. This design looks very light, but at the same time it is reliable.

Installation of steps on a metal frame

Metal treads are rarely used. The technology of the installation itself is simple - the metal product is laid on the base and welded, but it requires experience with welding machine. If this method is implemented in a private house, it is desirable to finish the stairs with soundproofing material.
Wooden treads can be attached to the metal base directly. But since wood, unlike metal, shrinks, it is recommended to use a substrate during installation. A piece of plywood 10-12 mm thick is bolted to the frame, and then to the substrate liquid nails fixed wooden surface. In the video, the method of attaching the tread to the frame is demonstrated in more detail.

Modular stairs

To connect the risers with the steps, we choose the simplest and most sufficient effective method for connecting solid wood parts - this is a connection using wooden dowels. In our case, the dowel performs the same function as in the manufacture of log cabins - this is to maintain the verticality of the riser and prevent its displacement in any direction.

In the figure, the numbers indicate the installation locations of the dowels, as you can see, it is necessary to install at least three dowels: two on the side and one dowel in the center of the step. This option of installing dowels will allow you to securely fasten the riser to the stairs. It is desirable to make the depth of landing of the dowel in the step and the risers at least half the thickness of the step, that is, 20 mm.

The dowel for connecting risers and steps can be made, for example, from solid birch, oak or beech.

The marking of holes in the steps can only be started after the steps are cut to the size we need - 860 mm! We trim the steps from the side that is located to the wall of the house.

Now we are moving on to preparing the connections of the riser with the steps. As can be seen from the figure, step A is installed first, then the riser into which the dowels are already inserted, and then step B is installed.

In order to attach the pad to the step in this way, it is necessary to make holes in the steps of the stairs. We also make holes in the risers and install dowels in them. Let's begin to analyze an example of marking the places for making holes from the lower stage A:

Hole making on the front

We measure 10 mm from the back end of the step and draw the X axis. From the left end we measure 430 mm, the middle of the step and draw the Y1 axis. We mark the side holes as follows - we measure 50 mm from the left and right ends and draw the Y axis and the Y2 axis. At the intersection of the Y axes with the X axis, we put marks that serve as the center of the holes.

The step marking under the letter B is almost identical. We will only find the axis as follows. We measure 289 mm from the back end of the step and draw the axis we need. Next, we repeat all the steps for marking the holes, as we did when marking the steps from the front side:

Back hole device

On the riser at the lower and upper ends, we apply the markings as follows. We measure 10 mm from the back end and draw the X axis. Further, in order for the holes in the risers to coincide with the holes in the steps, we find the Y axes in the same way as on the steps.

In order for the holes to have the same depth, they must be drilled with a depth stop, which can be done using an adjusting plate on the drill or a drilling depth stop is fixed on the drill.

Individual construction of houses is almost never complete without the use of stairs. The main requirement for all types of these structures is the safety of movement on them.

Stair structures must be strong and stable. Therefore, the question of how to fix the stairs to the ceiling is very relevant in any private house. Let's consider in more detail various options fixing ladder structures depending on their type.

Stair construction during operation is subjected to various kinds of permanent and temporary loads. In addition to its own weight, it must also withstand the weight of a person and objects moved along it. Therefore, the issue of durable fastening of such structures in the house is very important.

Stair structures are usually fixed to:

Semi;
Slab or beam of the upper floor;
Inter-march sites;
walls- the structure is recommended to be fixed only to load-bearing walls made of concrete, timber or brick. The wall thickness must be at least 25 cm.

Important! It is impossible to fix products to asbestos-cement, drywall walls, or partitions laid out in one brick.

The method of fastening largely depends on:

Type ladder construction;
The material from which it is made;
Product weight;
Its dimensions;
Floor, ceiling and wall materials.

The main types of ladder structures are:

marching- may consist of one or more marches.
based on bowstrings, stringers, support pole or bolts. Most often, combined supports are used.
Complex structures- a combination of marches and helical sections, several marches with turns at different angles.

The method of fixing the structure depends on many factors - photo

The most common in private homes are marching structures made of wood. A single-march product can have the simplest fastening - to the floor and ceiling. It is a very reliable and stable system that does not require additional intermediate fasteners.

If there are two or more marches, then additional fixation of the structure is necessary. Complex models may have combined mounts, depending on the shape and type of support.

Openings for the installation of stairs

The opening for the stairs in the ceiling must be provided at the design stage of the building.

Its dimensions depend on:

Dimensions of the future design;
Stair type;
Cover type.

The hole in the ceiling for the stairs should have a width equal to the width of the march with the addition of gaps necessary for fixing the structure and its finishing. The length of the opening largely depends on the angle of inclination of the product.

But for safety reasons, the hole in the ceiling for the stairs must allow the descent and ascent of a person to full height. Openings are made rectangular, square or round.

Fixing stairs to various types of interfloor ceilings

The quality of the material of the ladder structure has great importance for its reliability and safety. But the strength of fixing all its elements among themselves, as well as correct fastening stairs to the ceiling, inter-march platforms, floors and walls play a much larger role.

Interfloor overlapping when arranging stairs can be made of various materials:

Wood - the most common flooring on wooden beams.
Reinforced concrete slabs.
Steel beams - rarely used in private construction.

Depending on the type of load-bearing structures of the floor, there are various ways of fixing ladder structures on them.

Interfloor ceilings on wooden beams

If the floors in the house are made on wooden beams, then the flight of stairs should be laid on the beam without distortions. Its fixation is carried out using special fastening systems, depending on the material of the stairs and the type of its supports.

The supports of the ladder structure in the form of a stringer are directly adjacent to the ceiling or the platform between the spans, transferring all loads to them.

In case of improper fastening, cracks may form in the wooden elements of the supports. This often happens when fixing a bowstring or stringer with beams and slabs into a lock.
Both vertical and horizontal loads act on the lower support of the structure. The same thing happens with a tight fixation of the support on the floor.
If the bowstring or kosour will be based on the ceiling only by the horizontal part, then the upper support will be subjected only to vertical loads from the stairs. Consequently, the risk of cracks in the march is minimized.
A gap of about 1 cm is required between the vertical end of the support element and the load-bearing floor structures.

Fixation of wooden stringers to longitudinal or transverse wooden beams can be carried out with a gash on the ladder support, or on the beam element.

There are a lot of options for fixing ladder structures to wooden beams. Often the choice of a particular method depends on the various nuances of the product itself and how the opening in the ceiling under the stairs is made.

Features of fastening stairs with metal stringers

Stair structures on metal supports are stable and durable. If the interfloor supporting structures are made of reinforced concrete beams, then the metal support can simply be welded to them.

But another option is also possible:

The edge of the stringer, with which it will be attached to the beam or ceiling slab, is cut off at the required angle.
Steel plates or corners are welded to the ends of the support.
Kosour fastening to reinforced concrete structure made with bolts or anchors.

To fix a steel ladder to a wooden beam, you can install a special metal plate with through holes on the upper end of the stringer.

The support is attached to it through these holes. The thickness of the metal must be at least 5 mm.
In order for the plate not to interfere with the decorative finish in the future, it must be sunk into the beam. This can be done by cutting a slot in the beam material in the form of a rectangle to fit the plate.
With the help of a chisel and a hammer, such work can be done with your own hands, but the process will be very laborious. It is much easier to cut a groove using a router. The width and height of the seat should be 3-5 mm larger than the dimensions of the plate.
When choosing suitable hardware for fastening a metal stringer, it is necessary to take into account permanent and temporary loads. A constant load is the weight of the staircase itself, variable loads are the weight of a person and objects being moved.
For example, the mass of a metal product is 140 kg, average weight person - 90 kg. Therefore, the minimum load will be 230 kg.

If self-tapping capercaillie screws 10 x 120 mm in size are used as fasteners, each of which is capable of withstanding a load of 100 kg, then the use of 8 hardware makes it possible maximum load for fasteners in 800 kg. The margin of safety with such a mount is sufficient.

Because of great variety options, the most suitable fastening of the stairs to the floor should be selected taking into account all individual features structures. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust such work to professionals.

The price of their services will largely depend on the complexity of the mounted product. But do not save on this - the safety of the entire structure plays a very important role. More information on the topic " Correct installation stairs to floors various types” can be obtained from the video in this article.

Frame stairs are becoming more and more in demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that, in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

Choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you make a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. Huge dignity frame technology there are its adaptive properties, you can first make the frame of the stairs with your own hands, with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea premises, or you can build a rough version of the frame, and in the future, trim with a suitable material.

The combination of metal with wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Thanks to good combination beauty and strength, wood and / or metal structures are popular with builders and owners country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, relying on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

metal ladder with wood trim will create an original atmosphere and interior in the house in a classic or vintage style. Possibility to decorate with forged and wooden elements, this is a real work of art that will give any room a true noble and respectable look.

An elegant metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, looks swift and light, while remaining a reliable and durable structure that can withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength, durability of the stairs, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal ladder and wooden steps guarantee the convenience of descending and / or ascending for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We make the calculation of the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made of light or durable grades of metal, an important indicator of which is corrosion resistance. The technology for building wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete sheathing of visible metal surfaces tree.

Having set a goal to independently design and build a staircase, it is important first of all to perform an accurate calculation metal frame stairs, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the ladder frame are based is based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicated indicator, the ratio of the step and the riser is determined.

S is the width of the step,
P is the riser height.

The formula will be:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of stairs:

As well as the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other, it is important to grow, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the initial data.

Sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with a tree with your own hands

The most popular way of finishing at minimal cost is the installation of wooden steps to the frame of a metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted in suitable color, as a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about the complete sheathing of the metal frame of the stairs with wood, then the process includes finishing:

understair space,
steps,
risers,
imitation of a wooden string.

After such a "disguise", the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from the wooden one.

For the design of exclusive stairs use wood valuable breeds tree:

The above tree species have high aesthetic, as well as operational properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique, and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the resource of the frame itself.

Do-it-yourself installation of the metal frame of the stairs

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decided to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at the structures from prefabricated and prefabricated modules.

They have the form of a constructor, and are represented separate details, which are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting with each other in accordance with the attached instructions. These modules are manufactured industrial equipment according to the established state standards for wooden and metal structures of stairs. It is important to remember that such ladders require frequent maintenance and special maintenance to eliminate the occurrence of possible backlashes, tightening connections.

All stair structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
If the steps are fastened to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into the "tip".
To compensate for stresses when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the highest quality metal frame can have slight height differences between the parts. In order for the wooden linings to adhere qualitatively to the surface, a substrate is laid on it. For fixing, which is used with ordinary mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of mounting foam in this option is absolutely excluded, the dried foam is capable of wrinkling, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

Summing up, it is worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with one's own hands is perfect combination important points: durability metal structure and aesthetics wooden stairs. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to the aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with its accessibility. financial side. You will not find materials cheaper and more reliable.

This article will show you how to fasten the steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations of fastening materials and overall construction, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, it is worth deciding which steps will have to be fixed. In most cases, the material for the manufacture of steps is wood and for self-assembly stairs, it is this that is the main one, although companies specializing in stair production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening is reduced to the choice of the method of fixing the step plate on a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the design uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (from the sides flight of stairs), then the step is less subject to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with lighter structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers from a profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is precisely because of the mobility of the ladder elements that glue is not used in these connections, except in cases of mounting on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be attached

furniture bolts;
self-tapping screws;
futorka;
Fisher fasteners.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The simplest and reliable way installation of treads to the base. In this case, the step is drilled through with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (corner shelf or stringer body). The wide head of the furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head fixes it from turning when tightening. During installation, the nut must not be tightened more than allowed, because.

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of a bolt head on the step surface, especially if fastening is carried out according to an asymmetric pattern and the need to access the riser space to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with a conventional head and a wide washer can be used, but when a thread is cut in the base (kosour or corner), a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a pothole is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the key head of the desired size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and fastening speed; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The installation of steps with self-tapping screws is good because all the fastening elements are in the riser and the outer decorative trim while not suffering.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fasteners in order to prevent the groove from licking when tightened.

Now roofing screws are often used for fastening steps, which have a hexagonal head and a tip in the form of a drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to fasten wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of the profile pipe of the metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately pierce the metal and wood of the steps, but it should be understood that for a wood screw, the drill diameter is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which provides a good screw engagement area in an array of boards, unlike a self-tapping screw for metal.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use in the case of a visible lower surface of the stairs. At the same time, in metal structures, sweat is immediately made under a cone-shaped hat. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively softwood), and from larch, beech, ash or oak, then to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm, you will need to make preliminary holes in steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (according to the diameter of the main body of the self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not be screwed in completely.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with a futorka

Futorka for fixing steps

Let's make it clear right away that a futorka is a metal sleeve with internal and external threads. This method of fastening the steps can be attributed to the optimal in terms of stealth of mounting elements and ease of installation, dismantling of treads, but at the same time it can only be used for dense wood species, it is rather laborious, it requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can't fix anything on the spot. In addition, the steps can be fastened with a futor to the metal frame both from below (on the corner shelf or kosour), and from the side to the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large firms, for example, the German company KENNGOT. They have construction ladders with wood, acrylic, stone treads and threaded bushings for field assembly.

Technologically, at the same time, a futorka is taken with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm (on the forums they write about using a conventional stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and threaded), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole of the required depth is made and a thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for sufficient depth of thread grooves in wood for reliable connection details. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed (more than once) to them with an ordinary bolt or a stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with Fisher fasteners

Fixing a step to a corrugated pipe (Fisher)

Enough new way fasteners based on the use of Fisher polymer fasteners, on one side of which there is a bushing large diameter with a hole in the center and conical notches, working like a herringbone (it gets into the hole easily, but resists exit), and on the other - a sleeve that opens when screwed into the self-tapping screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed in the holes on the metal frame, the steps fall into place and the marks are pressed through. The steps are rolling. Then the Fisher mounts are installed in their nests, unfastened with self-tapping screws and a step is placed on them. Unfortunately, personal experience there was no use of such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastening behaves, but it is obvious that the dismantling of the step in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer slots and they will need to be replaced. In addition, it is hard to believe that a plastic sleeve will stay in a wooden nest for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and distorting loads, the steps will loosen these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should I pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of mounting option should be made at the stage of development of the stairs.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the stairs will be open, whether there will be access from the bottom of the steps, whether mounting elements will be painted or painted, and whether it is important that there are no elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the step surface.

When building a staircase with your own hands, a structure of channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, bundles) is often welded. This option is easier to sew from below decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then twist from below with roofing screws.

For the variant of modern stairs on stringers made of a profile pipe, repeating the shape of the stairs, long M8-10 furniture bolts can be used, stitching through the step and stringer, with a decorative galvanized nut from below. It is possible to order steps with footings, but must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also for the version with self-tapping screws, you can profile pipe the kosour can be drilled from above a little more than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and from below with a diameter of 12-13, where then to install furniture plugs. A self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below with a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible nozzle. A screwdriver, as a rule, stretches screws better.

In any case, you need to try to design the stairs so that the step lies on the shelf of the corner, channel or professional pipe and is attracted to them by the fastening, and does not hang on the point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in a tree, and therefore, after the construction of a staircase, many serious companies recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

The designs of stairs are different and, depending on the materials used, they are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, it is necessary, first of all, to consider such properties as price, aesthetic side (beauty), load on structures, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article, I will not consider the structural design features of stairs, such as the angle of inclination, riser height and tread width, etc. There are many books and materials on the Internet on this subject. Suppose the conditions allow us to mount a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the "convenience and safety formulas." What material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used for the construction of stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, it is pleasant to walk on it. A ladder made of wood is quite light, which means it does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures. However, the tree also has disadvantages. First of all, it is a creak and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made of precious wood, made according to all standards, as a rule, does not dry out and does not creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often not dried enough), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft rocks and are subject to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress, but are two, three or more times more expensive than coniferous species.

Often used in homes concrete stairs. Sometimes they buy factory flights of stairs, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on the spot. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything, if you correctly calculate the load, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to rely on massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. The support of concrete stairs must be provided by load-bearing structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. Most often used as cladding ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, but also a natural stone and tree.

Another type of stairs - metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs in houses are rarely used. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for the steps are made from a corner (most often the 40th), which is welded to the channels. Steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. Benefits metal stairs lot. First, it's fairly light weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are strong enough and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the lining. The steps made of their pines on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps to the metal frame are not attached directly, but through plywood. Plywood 10-12 mm thick is attached to the metal frame on bolts with a countersunk head, and wooden steps with a thickness of at least 40 mm are glued to the plywood with liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as a reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the load-bearing fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantages of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a ladder will be heard by all households, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight of the wooden cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, in order to soundproof a metal structure, it must be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, poles, railings. All this is understandable. Can anything else be done? I also asked the same question. The name of the car soundproofing experience, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to soundproofing a metal structure, metal vibration isolation technology is usually used, damping vibrations created in the metal. After all, any sound is a process of vibrations and friction. In order to isolate the stairs from vibration, I decided to use the materials I tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the brand name Bimast. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, fights vibroacoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bituminous mastic and heavy bituminous material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Considering the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to paste over the kosour - channel from the inside. To do this, I carefully washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. For order, I warmed the mastic a little with the usual household hair dryer and started gluing. When I pasted over almost the entire channel, I began to compare (by tapping) the sound of the processed channel and the unprocessed one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. The Bimast Bomb didn't noticeably reduce footstep noise, although there was a slight reduction in vibration levels with light tapping. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. Only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms left for a 3.5-meter long channel. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen a thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the channel bar itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left from the waterproofing of the foundation, I put it on the soundproofing of metal window sills. The ebbs knocked during the rain like empty cans, and when I pasted the ebbs on the inside with Uniflex heavy bituminous material, and also planted the ebbs on mounting foam, I understood what silence is in the house. Even during a heavy downpour, I saw only water on the glass, but did not hear the noise of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was slightly larger.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for soundproofing. Any heavy bituminous materials are suitable for vibration isolation, because vibrations are damped mainly by weight. So, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of efficiency, however, it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted down! It is desirable to prime the surface with a bituminous primer. I welded the material of the usual gas burner Kovea.

In all photographs, the staircase is without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience I will say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation lasts more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months or a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was processed with the familiar material Vizomat MP 2.7 mm thick. Vizomat MP without measurements is visually really thinner than Bimast "a, lighter and more rigid. It is more difficult to cut Vizomat MP with scissors. Vizomat MP must be warmed up well with a hair dryer. Vizomat MP is glued to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from hitting metal of different intensity is muffled on the channel treated with Bimast Bomb.As a result, Bimast Bomb is really best material in the product line from the StandardPlast company, although it is 25% more expensive in retail.

Thus, I would like to conclude my research. The cost of soundproofing channels acting as stringers is not comparable with the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. You need to find out if it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, it is they who create the lion's share of the noise.

And some more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for the competent calculation of the stairs.

Riser - step height
Tread - step width
The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
Double riser height + step width must be between 57-65 cm
The sum of the width and height in the optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (ladder safety formula)
The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)
The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
The number of steps in the staircase should be odd (from which foot we enter the stairs, we exit with this)

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2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrew, can I ask you a question? House blocks yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in an article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame ladder, how did you attach it? I have floors wooden lags. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a wall in the wall and support 4 racks, a reversal landing, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
Ringing means playing. Additional boil some kerchief from the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well, a slightly different weld, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the stairs, the straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 M. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to an I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only one metal around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps from the corners like Andrei's, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. A five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and on top of the five there is a carpet.

Most likely there is no ringing and vibration due to the fact that additional supports from a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
Agree with Paladin! Such a design really contributes to good acoustics) However, as I think, a heavy channel contributes to it even more. I have been racking my brains over the stairs for a long time - to put them up soon. But I will make stringers from a thin metal profile, from the same one from which the frame is made - it will be much easier. True, there are some nuances - I will also fasten them rigidly - to the frame. but I think to apply in places of attachment rubber gaskets. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the span platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials- so much goodness surrounds us in real life that I tried to avoid using them inside the house. As vibro- and hydraulic decouplings (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad did not just choke ...) But, in my humble opinion, and, as the British testify, "I am not rich enough to buy cheap things" ( Russian v-t"Miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Eugene, do you always take everything literally or sometimes you try to understand?
1. The formula of convenience and 12 cm - this is not about the stairs as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call anything you like a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most common concrete staircase, as in the entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. The optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulties with either 20 degrees or 45 degrees. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory), 30-35 degrees is the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no reason to discuss it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Evgeny
"The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)" - how is it, I have a ladder 295 cm high and what should be its width according to your calculation ??? even scary to imagine!