Floor screed on screw piles. We make floors in a frame bath with our own hands

I can say one thing for sure - in no case do this) Mushrooms will grow there ...
Lots of comments.)
1. What are power beams? Did you mean grillage?
2. Is the bathhouse built using frame technology or is it a frame made of profiled timber?
3. How does the floor of the first floor look like at the moment? Or is it missing as such?
4. The use of asbestos is categorically undesirable, European builders do not use it indoors - it is prohibited, because it is a carcinogen. And with a thickness of 8 + 8 + self-leveling floor - there is a high probability that all this will crack.
5. Roll waterproofing is, in my opinion, too clumsy to use. Maybe you can, of course, but there are special waterproofing mastics and tapes for showers, and I think it's better to use them.

As for the technology of laying tiles, I myself am still thinking about this issue, but I am leaning towards the modern technologies of foreign comrades.

Here are some videos that show it all:

1. In this, the polymer waterproofing mastic and Supersealing waterproofing film are used. The shower room is made by the beadless method with a long ladder, very modern and you won't trip. The only thing I didn’t understand was how they made a bias in the soul.

2. Several different options are considered here - but everywhere they suggest using a special site with an already formed slope. Also without a side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQoCI88b9Vo

Since we most likely cannot find such plates, then either we will have to make a side, and form a slope inside it with a cement screed, or - raise the entire floor in the shower room by a few cm, due to some kind of dry knauf-type screed / drywall / csp / gvl / aquapanel, and in the place where there will be a shower - make a slope with a reinforced cement screed. Moreover, it is not necessary to make a thick one at all. With a side it seems to be easier.

After the formation of the floor surface and the slope into the ladder, everything is treated with a primer, after it, all corners and joints are glued with a reinforcing waterproofing tape, and the entire surface is treated with polymeric waterproofing mastic, in 2 layers. Then, all this can be tiled. If some kind of cement base / drywall, etc. is used, then ordinary glue can be used, if plywood or OSB serves as the base, then polymer glue should be used. Polymer is much more expensive, but you can save on buying cement sheets.

I confess that I myself have never laid tiles, but I diligently searched for information for my bath, and finally came to the above technology. Anything is better than the collective farm described by our Kulibins.

In areas with heavy terrain and unstable soils, the right solution is to build a bathhouse on screw pile foundations. Such a structure can be located on the shore of a reservoir or on a slope, significantly reducing the area occupied by the site. At the same time, the arrangement of the premises remains practically unchanged, however, the drain in the bath on screw piles is arranged with some features.

Construction features

Bath is a building with a unique mode of operation. Warming up of rooms occurs infrequently, but to very significant temperatures with prolonged cooling, therefore frame structures are perfect for its construction.

Frame bath on screw piles - one of the most common types

This choice is due to the following factors:

• There is no need for wall insulation, because there is no stable heating and keeping warm for a long time loses all meaning;
• In winter, walls made of logs or bricks turn into ice blocks, which cannot be heated quickly;
• Insulating material is laid inside the frame, which allows you to save heat from the stove, warm up the rooms faster and reduce heating costs;
• The wooden floor in baths on a screw pile foundation warms up much faster than a concrete screed or a monolithic slab;
• Ordinary wooden flooring cannot organize the drainage of water from the foundation, organize a high-quality drain in baths on screw piles.

Instead of making a frame from the inside along the walls of a log house or a brick box, it is better to immediately make a frame bath, which will be much cheaper. In this case, concrete screeds or slab grillages should be replaced with wooden floors on logs with a moisture removal device through EPDM membranes.

Drainage device for floor insulation

When performing work, the most practical and economical option is to insulate the floor in the bath of a standard and familiar design between the finishing and rough flooring on the logs. To perform waterproofing, a membrane is located at the bottom, through which water will be drained.

An ordinary drain with a water seal in the baths on a pile foundation dries up, and the smell from the septic tanks penetrates into the rooms. When insulating floors, instead of a conventional drain, it is recommended to use a drain with a dry water seal.

Performing floor waterproofing

In the bath rooms during its use, the humidity rises significantly. Wooden walls are isolated from moisture by means of vapor barrier film materials. In the washing room, water enters directly onto the floor, while the effectiveness of insulation can noticeably decrease. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam are not afraid of water, while other materials lose their thermal insulation characteristics after wetting.

There are several ways to waterproof the floor, and with it the foundation of the bath:

• Surfacing of rolled materials on the slab and coating the surface with mastics (for concrete floors);
• Laying a durable membrane on the insulation and subfloor (for wooden floors).

Drainage for both options is arranged without any problems, but in the second case, floor heating will occur much faster.

Drain device

Due to the fact that panel, frame baths or log buildings are mainly built on a pile foundation, the grillage is arranged mainly from timber or rolled metal.

In this case, the drain can be done in several ways at once:

• Filling slab grillage;
• Laying an asbestos-cement sheet on the beams with a screed or cladding with flat slate tiles on it, and ensure the required slope due to the difference in the thickness of the glue;
• Fixing a galvanized sheet on a grillage with a slope towards the sewer drain (for wooden floors);
• Laying a membrane on the subfloor attached to both side surfaces of the walls (for wooden floors).

Each of the options provides for insulation under a layer of waterproofing. The walls must be covered with mastic, pasted over with hydrostekloizol and covered with a membrane at least 10 cm above the horizontal level of the floor.

Drainage device by means of a membrane

The most economical option is to drain using EPDM membranes. The structure will be like this:

• Subfloor logs, fixed by means of metal holders;
• Draft floor, which can be made from tightly laid boards 25-30 cm;
• Insulation, which is used as EPPS with a thickness of 80-100 mm;
• A ladder, arranged in the subfloor and in the insulating material, and inserted into the drain with a dry water seal;
• Membrane, laid on the entire perimeter. It should also be brought to the walls on the sides, taking into account the elevation of the finishing floor;
• Logs of the finishing flooring, fixed by means of holders from the profile;
• Finishing coating in the form of an edged board, which is not recommended to be fixed rigidly, but to be attached to 10 mm dowels.

This fixing of the finish coating allows you to remove the boards in any area for garbage collection and cleaning the sewer. For a water drain device, the slope is arranged directly in the membrane during installation. The lower part of the EPDM is pressed, then the waterproofing is slightly raised to the top and fixed with a slight tension.

Fixing the membrane around the perimeter must be done directly to the crowns of the log house using aluminum rails, which can be purchased at building materials stores.

Watch a video on how to waterproof the drain using a membrane and install a drain cover.

For frame baths, for the purpose of wall cladding from the inside, a vapor barrier device is necessary, while the scheme will undergo some changes:

• First, the draft floor is laid, and its insulation is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first solution;
• The membrane is fixed on the walls with a small start using a stapler, an interference is created for the drain device;
• The frame of the walls is sheathed with a vapor barrier material, while its lower edge is laid on top of the EPDM - when moisture accumulates, it will stack on the membrane without destroying the wooden elements of the load-bearing frame.

Application of sheet materials

Creating a slope from porcelain stoneware or tiles based on sheet materials will cost a little more, but it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Watch the video on how to make a slope under the drain using tiles.

In this case, it is necessary to comply with the following technology:

• The draft floor is arranged from edged boards on logs;
• Extruded polystyrene XP5 is used as a heater;
• Dry screed is made of asbestos-cement sheets or DSP;
• For waterproofing, an EPDM membrane and coating with polymer mastic are used;
• The drain is arranged only in the form of ladders with dry water seals;
• For cladding, tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, laid with an inclination towards the ladder.

In baths with a foundation of any type, bituminous and epoxy mastics, as well as roll materials with a built-up surface, cannot be used, otherwise there is a high risk of unpleasant odors.

Drainage device for screeding

An uncoated screed is performed in order to save on finishing. In this case, ladders made of wood will be required, which are laid down when using the bath, and removed after the completion of the bath procedures for drying.

In this case, the drain is arranged after performing a two- or three-layer waterproofing of the screed with mastics, penetrating substances, or by means of hydroglass isol. Sewerage ladders are embedded in the foundation, for which it is best to use dry water seals.

Drainage device when pouring the slab

The slab is poured during the construction of the foundation grillage. In this case, the drain slope is set directly along the slab, and the sewer hole is arranged by mounting a pipe of the required diameter into the formwork.

The floor in the bath room should differ from living rooms with some functionality. It should not create a danger of movement during exposure to moisture, be able to drain water from its surface. A properly equipped floor will not be subject to rotting processes and premature wear. Before starting construction work, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the various technological features in order to determine the most suitable option for yourself. It is advisable to order a project, but it will be enough that the owner will have some general knowledge that will help arrange the floor in the bath on stilts.

Conditions for determining the type of structure

Having started building your bath, you should first consider the principle of removing used water, determine the materials that will be used in arranging the floor. Most often, it is made of concrete material or wood laid on logs. The first option involves large physical costs and funding, but it can serve for a long period. The use of lumber is a more affordable way, easy to perform, but will be used for no more than ten years. According to the principle of water drainage, such floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

Pros and cons of leaky floors

This type of coverage is relatively simple to arrange and does not require significant financial costs. It is a simple flooring, between the boards of which there are gaps designed to drain water. This option does not imply additional sewer communications, except for a drainage well located under the floor.

Insulation is not used, and for this reason, such a floor is used only in bath rooms, equipped in areas with warm climatic conditions. In the case of replacing damaged elements on such a floor, there are no difficulties, because the boards are not attached to the logs. By the way, they can be periodically removed and taken out into the open air for ventilation and drying.

Features of non-leaking floors

The floors of such systems are equipped on piles or based on a foundation foundation. Their complexity lies in the fact that boards should be installed in two rows. The surface is arranged from a tongue-and-groove board made of pine or larch. Under it is a rough row. These types of floors are recommended to be installed in the steam room, laying the space between the rows with insulating material. It is recommended to maintain a slight slope so that the water flows freely to the collection and discharge point.

Floors on piles

When the design documentation for a bath provides for its installation on a screw or concrete foundation, which allows it to be raised above the soil level, the technology for laying boards is somewhat different. Insulation of the floor in the bath is carried out according to a different scheme. According to these requirements, the floor is laid in the bath on piles. To begin with, beam ceilings are laid in the upper part of the columnar or pile foundations, a frame is made of timber, on which boards are stuffed. Void areas are filled with expanded clay or laid with mineral wool. A vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation, then logs are attached. It remains only to fill the finishing floor from the boards, which is quite within the power of every owner.

Positive differences between the foundation in the form of piles

This type of foundation increases the strength of the entire object. The bath can be installed on any soil areas that are able to "move". Significantly reduces the cost of construction work. Reduces the time required for construction. The foundation base increases its bearing capacity.

Concrete floors

Many people study photos of floors in bath rooms on the Internet, hammer in the search phrases “flooring in a bath on screw piles”, “bath on stilts: how to make a floor”. There are plenty of options to explore.

Here is an example of the arrangement of the most commonly used concrete floor, the arrangement of which is carried out in several stages:

• the soil base is carefully leveled, rammed;
• the first concrete layer is poured, the thickness of which is at least five centimeters;
• if the fill is frame, then expanded clay or felt material is used to insulate the floor;
• reinforcement is being carried out, along which the second concrete layer is poured (read: "");
• the surface of the hardened concrete is leveled with a screed made of sand and cement;
• a finishing "clean" coating is arranged. For this, finishing materials are used that are not afraid of an increased level of humidity.

When conducting all construction work, it is necessary to observe an inclined angle towards the drain, which should be approximately ten degrees. If it is planned to install a furnace or boiler, at this point the floor must be especially strong, additional reinforcement should be provided, cement of a higher marking should be used.

Under the sewer network that removes wastewater, it is necessary to arrange holes in the basement. Drain pipes made of plastic material will pass through them, designed to lead water into the drainage system.

Wooden floors - features

The main condition for a leak-proof floor in a steam room is that the logs are mounted perpendicular to the direction in which the used water flows. The main element of such a floor is strong logs resting on a beam, reinforced on a columnar foundation.

It should not be forgotten that all contact areas must be carefully insulated using roofing material and liquid bitumen, which is used to process the docking areas.

If the floors are laid on piles, it is recommended to use a more effective insulating material - expanded clay stone, mineralized wool and others. Boards pre-impregnated with antiseptic compounds are laid on the fixed logs. It is worth noting that the impregnation of the floor in the bath must be chosen correctly, taking into account the type of wood. If the floor is built of a leaky type, then gaps of several millimeters are left between the boards, through which water will be able to freely go into the drainage pit.

Protective and preventive measures

The main danger for the floor in the bath room is an increased level of humidity, constant fumes, and dampness. Waterproofing is mandatory, all building materials are treated with special compounds. If these requirements are neglected, the formation of mold and fungus, which can destroy not only wood, but also concrete, is guaranteed to you.

All individual elements of the floor structure must be unambiguously treated with antiseptics, which today are offered in large quantities on the building materials market. It is recommended not to save on this event by treating surfaces several times. If it is planned to lay insulating material in the floor, a waterproofing layer must definitely be made. All these measures in the complex will allow to extend the operational life of the bath room, to postpone the likely repair work to a later period.

When, for certain reasons, it is not possible to fulfill all the recommendations during construction work, it is necessary to carry out certain procedures that can prevent wooden and concrete surfaces from destruction. In such cases. Wooden floors are dismantled, carefully weathered and dried, the places where rot has begun to appear are eliminated. Boards and logs are cleaned with sandpaper, impregnated with antiseptic solutions, dried again. Recommended. After completing all of the above measures, coat the wood with a wax or water-repellent varnish.

The floor in the bath on screw piles should have good thermal protection, since there is a lot of free space under the building. If the bath will be used in winter in a region with a cold climate, then it is recommended to additionally protect the underground space by closing it around the perimeter with a plinth. In this enclosing structure, several products are made, which make it possible to effectively ventilate the underground, and at the same time create additional thermal protection.

Floors in the bath on piles - Schemes and Projects

The greatest number of discussions is caused by the design of the floor in a log cabin, since there is a danger of making a design in which the lower crown will be too intensively moistened. As a result of such constant exposure to moisture, wood can begin to break down ahead of time and the entire structure will last noticeably less than its allotted time. Therefore, the following is a diagram of the optimal arrangement of all the elements necessary in good floors.

Floor logs with a section of 100x150 mm are installed in the lower crown.

Skull boards are sewn under the logs in order to become a support for the heat-insulating layer.

The next step is the manufacture of the crate for the subfloor slabs.

A dense polyethylene film flooring is laid on top of the crate - this is a waterproofing layer that will protect the wooden structures below from water ingress.

Durable cement-bonded particle boards (DSP) with a thickness of at least 12 mm are installed on the waterproofing. Along the perimeter, a side is made of the same material.

A metal mesh with a bar of at least 10 mm is laid out in the resulting space. After that, a concrete screed with a thickness of 10-12 mm is poured.

An important nuance is not indicated in this design - there is no drain hole for organizing the flow of water from the washing room and steam room. Its layout can be seen in the diagram below.

It also indicates the finishing layer for the flooring of the concrete screed in the bath - this is, as a rule, porcelain stoneware tiles. In addition, here you can see that in the diagram the floors of the steam room or washing room are made with a slope. To organize such an angle, a concrete screed is poured over beacons made of wood at a certain angle from the walls to the drain hole.

A slightly more complicated design with a pouring wooden floor and insulated concrete screed.

A good option for creating a thermal barrier around the perimeter of the building is the manufacture of a basement. When creating it, it is important to take into account that the soil next to the bath will move and the enclosing structure with the bath should not have rigid connections.

How to make a floor in a bath on piles with your own hands: Instructions

First of all, make sure that all the necessary trenches are dug in the ground for laying sewer pipes and water supply channels, if any are planned.

After that, the floor lags from below are lined with subfloor boards.

The next step is to provide wind and moisture protection for the insulation. This role is performed by a special vapor permeable membrane, which will allow the heat-shielding layer to effectively evaporate moisture from its surface to the street. A high-quality heat barrier will be created by mineral wool 150 mm thick.

Having finished with hydroprotection, subfloor boards are installed on top of it.

DSP boards are laid on the subfloor or crate.

The slabs are covered from above with a waterproofing film, on top of which a crate is placed for pouring a concrete screed.

The floor screed is carried out according to the lighthouses. They can be made of wood or metal profiles, as in the photo above. Ceramic tiles are laid on top of the concrete or a wooden floor is arranged. If the plans are to make pouring floors from boards, then it is recommended to organize a ventilation duct in the space between the wooden flooring and the concrete screed.

Such a pipe will provide good air circulation and will not only protect the wooden floors from premature decay, but will also allow you to stay in the steam room longer and more comfortably due to the constant supply of fresh air. If necessary, a control valve, cap or gate valve can be installed on the pipe outside or inside.

The device of the floor in the bath on screw piles

What is the device of the floor in the bath on screw piles? The floor in the bath on screw piles should have good thermal protection, since there is a lot of free space under the building.

Do-it-yourself floor in the bath on screw piles

How to make the floor in the bath on screw piles with your own hands is one of the most important issues in self-construction. The complex relief of the site, groundwater close to the soil surface, problematic soils - these are the reasons that force the use of screw piles as a support base for a bath.

The design of the foundation for the bath: the advantages of screw supports

You can make almost any foundation for a bath with your own hands, but screw piles are most often used to build a supporting base. Supports have undeniable advantages over other types of foundations:

• Screw supports are easy to screw into the ground with your own hands without the help of special complex fixtures and devices, you only need the help of two more people at the time of installation of the piles.
• The construction of a foundation for a bath of screw piles allows you to install a structure on almost any site, even in the presence of a high level of groundwater and a significant slope.
• Screw supports can be mounted in soils of any type.

The device of the floor in the bath

The floors in a small bath are usually arranged in such a way that excess water can seep between the floorboards and be absorbed by special membranes that provide drainage for the liquid used for washing or washing.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the floors so that the bath does not dry out quickly. It is easy to insulate the floors in the bath with your own hands, using the necessary high-quality insulation.

The ideal option for a bath is the construction of a frame building made of natural wood, which is easy to heat up in a short time. The floors in such a bath are also made of wood, which is easy to do with your own hands.

High humidity and an abundance of steam in the bath will lead to rapid deterioration of wood, because the material is subject to biological damage under such conditions: foci of rot appear, fungus and mold spread along the wooden surfaces of the floor and walls.

A reliable way to protect wood from excessive moisture is to use vapor barrier materials, as well as special water-repellent films.

Floor insulation in the bath

The choice of insulation for the floor in the bath room must meet certain requirements:

• High moisture resistance - floor insulation should be made with materials that have the highest water repellency.
• In the bath (especially in the steam room) a humid environment is created at a sufficiently high temperature, so materials for floor insulation should not emit harmful substances at the time of heating and getting wet. The environmental safety of the insulation and its hygiene are the main requirements for the materials that the owner intends to use to insulate the bath.
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity - insulation is carried out in such a way that heat is reliably retained inside the bath or sauna room.

The choice of materials for insulation

It is allowed to use expanded clay, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, basalt wool as a heater for the sauna floors, but the highest quality of insulation can be achieved when using polystyrene foam boards, which not only meet all the requirements for maintaining heat in the bath, but also do not collapse from exposure to high humidity and temperature, resistant to biological damage.

Mounting the floor on supports

To preserve heat in the bath room, you will have to make a plinth that will close the free space under the floor, blown by the wind. Do-it-yourself basement cladding not only protects the floors from freezing, but also improves the appearance of the facade of the building, allowing you to design the site in a certain style.

It is easy to make concrete or wood floors with your own hands, both options have their advantages and disadvantages.

The concrete floor has a rather high cost, its construction is labor-intensive, but the service life of concrete flooring reaches over 50 years. Wooden floors are very comfortable - feet walk on warm wood, heated floor boards have a wonderful aroma of wood, the floors heat up quickly.

The wooden floor is subject to rapid deterioration with increased exposure to moisture, therefore it is short-lived. The service life of wooden floors in the baths does not exceed 7 years. However, wood is a very inexpensive material, easy to process and is not in short supply. Therefore, re-laying the floor with your own hands will not be difficult; during repairs, it is easy to insulate the old floors again.

Bath floor technology

Wooden floors in the bath on screw supports are of two types:

1. Leaking - special gaps are left between the floor boards, through which water easily penetrates under the wooden flooring, where it enters the ladder, and then into the sewer system (yard sewer networks or sewage pit). Insulation of leaking floors cannot be performed without the installation of a concrete isolated technical underground.
2. Non-leaking - floors of this design are made with a slope towards the receiving siphon, where drains from the bath room enter. In this case, the floors are made of two layers, the bottom layer is not exposed to moisture, the insulation is carried out using a reliable insulation.

When installing floors in a bathhouse, steam room, sauna or shower room, it is very important to provide for the correct slope, which will allow you to quickly free the wooden floor structures from water, and provide a bath with a reliable drain.

Waterproofing is laid on a wooden floor, then insulation is laid. The second layer of waterproofing film must be laid on top of the insulation layer, after which they proceed to the rough coating of the wooden floor.

The device of floors in a bathhouse on screwed piles is always provided with a slope.

The floor in the bath on screw piles: how to do it yourself

In order to make the correct arrangement of the floor in the bath on screw piles, you must follow some rules. Find out how to properly insulate your floor.

How to make a floor in a bath on stilts

The floor in the bath room should differ from living rooms with some functionality. It should not create a danger of movement during exposure to moisture, be able to drain water from its surface. A properly equipped floor will not be subject to rotting processes and premature wear. Before starting construction work, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the various technological features in order to determine the most suitable option for yourself. It is advisable to order a project, but it will be enough that the owner will have some general knowledge that will help arrange the floor in the bath on stilts.

Conditions for determining the type of structure

Having started building your bath, you should first consider the principle of removing used water, determine the materials that will be used in arranging the floor. Most often, it is made of concrete material or wood laid on logs. The first option involves large physical costs and funding, but it can serve for a long period. The use of lumber is a more affordable way, easy to perform, but will be used for no more than ten years. According to the principle of water drainage, such floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

Pros and cons of leaky floors

This type of coverage is relatively simple to arrange and does not require significant financial costs. It is a simple flooring, between the boards of which there are gaps designed to drain water. This option does not imply additional sewer communications, except for a drainage well located under the floor.

Insulation is not used, and for this reason, such a floor is used only in bath rooms, equipped in areas with warm climatic conditions. In the case of replacing damaged elements on such a floor, there are no difficulties, because the boards are not attached to the logs. By the way, they can be periodically removed and taken out into the open air for ventilation and drying.

Features of non-leaking floors

The floors of such systems are equipped on piles or based on a foundation foundation. Their complexity lies in the fact that boards should be installed in two rows. The surface is arranged from a tongue-and-groove board made of pine or larch. Under it is a rough row. These types of floors are recommended to be installed in the steam room, laying the space between the rows with insulating material. It is recommended to maintain a slight slope so that the water flows freely to the collection and discharge point.

Floors on piles

When the design documentation for a bath provides for its installation on a screw or concrete foundation, which allows it to be raised above the soil level, the technology for laying boards is somewhat different. Warming is carried out according to a different scheme. According to these requirements, the floor is laid in the bath on piles. To begin with, beam ceilings are laid in the upper part of the columnar or pile foundations, a frame is made of timber, on which boards are stuffed. Void areas are filled with expanded clay or laid with mineral wool. A vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation, then logs are attached. It remains only to fill the finishing floor from the boards, which is quite within the power of every owner.

Positive differences between the foundation in the form of piles

This type of foundation increases the strength of the entire object. The bath can be installed on any soil areas that are able to "move". Significantly reduces the cost of construction work. Reduces the time required for construction. The foundation base increases its bearing capacity.

Concrete floors

Many people study photos of floors in bath rooms on the Internet, hammer in the search phrases “flooring in a bath on screw piles”, “bath on stilts: how to make a floor”. There are plenty of options to explore.

Here is an example of the arrangement of the most commonly used concrete floor, the arrangement of which is carried out in several stages:

• the soil base is carefully leveled, rammed;
• the first concrete layer is poured, the thickness of which is at least five centimeters;
• if the fill is frame, then expanded clay or felt material is used to insulate the floor;
• reinforcement is being carried out, along which the second concrete layer is poured (read: “Do-it-yourself concrete floor installation in the bath - stages of work”);
• the surface of the hardened concrete is leveled with a screed made of sand and cement;
• a finishing "clean" coating is arranged. For this, finishing materials are used that are not afraid of an increased level of humidity.

When conducting all construction work, it is necessary to observe an inclined angle towards the drain, which should be approximately ten degrees. If it is planned to install a furnace or boiler, at this point the floor must be especially strong, additional reinforcement should be provided, cement of a higher marking should be used.

Under the sewer network that removes wastewater, it is necessary to arrange holes in the basement. Drain pipes made of plastic material will pass through them, designed to lead water into the drainage system.

Wooden floors - features

The main condition for a leak-proof floor in a steam room is that the logs are mounted perpendicular to the direction in which the used water flows. The main element of such a floor is strong logs resting on a beam, reinforced on a columnar foundation.

It should not be forgotten that all contact areas must be carefully insulated using roofing material and liquid bitumen, which is used to process the docking areas.

If the floors are laid on piles, it is recommended to use a more effective insulating material - expanded clay stone, mineralized wool and others. Boards pre-impregnated with antiseptic compounds are laid on the fixed logs. If the floor is built of a leaky type, then gaps of several millimeters are left between the boards, through which water will be able to freely go into the drainage pit.

Protective and preventive measures

The main danger for the floor in the bath room is an increased level of humidity, constant fumes, and dampness. Waterproofing is mandatory, all building materials are treated with special compounds. If these requirements are neglected, the formation of mold and fungus, which can destroy not only wood, but also concrete, is guaranteed to you.

All individual elements of the floor structure must be unambiguously treated with antiseptics, which today are offered in large quantities on the building materials market. It is recommended not to save on this event by treating surfaces several times. If it is planned to lay insulating material in the floor, a waterproofing layer must definitely be made. All these measures in the complex will allow to extend the operational life of the bath room, to postpone the likely repair work to a later period.

When, for certain reasons, it is not possible to fulfill all the recommendations during construction work, it is necessary to carry out certain procedures that can prevent wooden and concrete surfaces from destruction. In such cases. Wooden floors are dismantled, carefully weathered and dried, the places where rot has begun to appear are eliminated. Boards and logs are cleaned with sandpaper, impregnated with antiseptic solutions, dried again. Recommended. After completing all of the above measures, coat the wood with a wax or water-repellent varnish.

Floor in a bath on piles: how to make a floor device on screw piles, photo and video

Floor in a bath on piles: how to make a floor device on screw piles, photo and video

The device and installation of the floor in the bath on screw piles

A bathhouse on piles is a solid structure, which is relevant in areas where the soil tends to “walk” due to a large amount of precipitation or where the soil has a swampy composition. In addition, the raised floor in the bath on screw piles allows you to make the room many times warmer, in contrast to the standard building on a concrete foundation. But subject to the correct arrangement of the floors. Otherwise, such a steam room is no different from the usual and familiar baths. We will talk about how to arrange and insulate the floors in the steam room on screw piles below.

The advantages of a steam room on a pile foundation include:

• Budget cost of construction;
• The ability to do the installation with your own hands without the involvement of specialists;
• Large space to strengthen the floor in the bath;
• Excellent ventilation of the underground space, which will ensure a long service life of the room.

We install the floor in the bath

There are two options for flooring in the washing room on piles. And they will depend on the season in which the steam room will be operated. So, the first option is leaking floors, which are easy to make with your own hands. Water in such a room will simply seep through the floor boards, and go directly into the ground.

The second option is a non-leaking insulated floor. Thanks to the installation of this design, the bath can be operated all year round and not be afraid to freeze in it.

Installing a leaky floor

In order to make the installation of such a floor in which the water flow will be directed to the ground, we will need:

• Floor beams with a section of 150x100 (but you can use any others that are at hand);
• Holders for beams (calculation of holders should be based on 2 pcs per 1 meter of the room);
• Subfloor board;
• The board processed and polished for a finishing floor (better a larch or an oak).
• In addition, prepare a screwdriver, screws, drying oil and a brush.

When the strapping beam is already laid on the piles with your own hands, it is necessary to mount the holders for the beam in the washing room of the bath so that they are strictly parallel to each other in increments of approximately 1 m. with tie bar.

• We put the beams in the holders and at the same time try to measure their length so that each beam has an indent from the strapping beam of about 1 cm. This will provide additional ventilation of the wood during the operation of the bath.
• We lay the subfloor on top of the beams and fix it with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
• Lastly, we make a finishing floor, forming gaps between the boards 5-8 mm thick. We cover the boards with two layers of drying oil.
• The leaking floor in the bath on strong piles is ready.

Important: you can use a bath on stilts with such floors only in the warm season.

Installation of underfloor heating indoors on piles

In order to make a good warm floor with your own hands in a bathhouse installed on a pile foundation, you will have to work a little more. Here it is important to do everything right and at the same time ensure optimal water flow under the slope. Then wood, and insulation, and waterproofing will last longer and provide comfort during bath procedures.

• So, first we will lay, as indicated above, the floor beams and the subfloor. Only at this stage, the installation of floors should be carried out with a slope. And for this, the holders for the beams must be fixed in such a way that the mounted beams have a slope towards the future drain pipe. Calculation of a slope of 1 cm per 1 m of the beam length. This must be done in order for the water flow to be good.
• We lay logs on top of the subfloor, fixing them with long dowels, and between the logs we lay a heater. To insulate the floor, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam. Other materials, if wet, will lose their thermal insulation properties.
• The next layer of our "pie" will be a vapor barrier material - an EPDM membrane. Moreover, the absorbent side should be facing the floor, and not the side of the insulation. We overlap it on the walls to a height of at least 10 cm. We securely fix all edges with aluminum rivers.
• At this stage of work, it is necessary to make a drain. Therefore, we install a sewer pipe and fit it as tightly as possible to the subfloor and all other layers of the “pie”. All cracks when docking the drain are sealed with sealant.

The device of the pie of the insulated floor in the bath

Important: so that the smell from the sewage pit does not get into the washing room, a dry water seal can be installed on the drain pipe.

• We use a grooved board as a fine finish. We carefully adjust each floorboard to each other with a mallet.
• Subsequently, the wall decoration should cover the joints of the tongue-and-groove timber and the draft wall partition. Thus, moisture will not get into the gaps.
• We install a sewer ladder at the place where the water drains.

As you can see, making a warm floor in a frame bath on a pile foundation is not at all difficult. You can learn more about the stages of work from the video and photos below.

The floor in the bath on screw piles: device and how to install

The device of the bath floor on screw piles. Installation technology for flowing and heated floors for a bath. Photo and video instruction.

How to make the floor in the bath on screw piles with your own hands is one of the most important issues in self-construction. The complex relief of the site, groundwater close to the soil surface, problematic soils - these are the reasons that force the use of screw piles as a support base for a bath.

The design of the foundation for the bath: the advantages of screw supports

You can make almost any foundation for a bath with your own hands, but screw piles are most often used to build a supporting base. Supports have undeniable advantages over other types of foundations:

• Screw supports are easy to screw into the ground with your own hands without the help of special complex fixtures and devices, you only need the help of two more people at the time of installation of the piles.
• The construction of a foundation for a bath of screw piles allows you to install a structure on almost any site, even in the presence of a high level of groundwater and a significant slope.
• Screw supports can be mounted in soils of any type.

The device of the floor in the bath

The floors in a small bath are usually arranged in such a way that excess water can seep between the floorboards and be absorbed by special membranes that provide drainage for the liquid used for washing or washing.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the floors so that the bath does not dry out quickly. It is easy to insulate the floors in the bath with your own hands, using the necessary high-quality insulation.

The ideal option for a bath is the construction of a frame building made of natural wood, which is easy to heat up in a short time. The floors in such a bath are also made of wood, which is easy to do with your own hands.

High humidity and an abundance of steam in the bath will lead to rapid deterioration of wood, because the material is subject to biological damage under such conditions: foci of rot appear, fungus and mold spread along the wooden surfaces of the floor and walls.

A reliable way to protect wood from excessive moisture is to use vapor barrier materials, as well as special water-repellent films.

Floor insulation in the bath

The choice of insulation for the floor in the bath room must meet certain requirements:

• High moisture resistance - floor insulation should be made with materials that have the highest water repellency.
• In the bath (especially in the steam room) a humid environment is created at a sufficiently high temperature, so materials for floor insulation should not emit harmful substances at the time of heating and getting wet. The environmental safety of the insulation and its hygiene are the main requirements for the materials that the owner intends to use to insulate the bath.
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity - insulation is carried out in such a way that heat is reliably retained inside the bath or sauna room.

The choice of materials for insulation

It is allowed to use expanded clay, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, basalt wool as a heater for the sauna floors, but the highest quality of insulation can be achieved when using polystyrene foam boards, which not only meet all the requirements for maintaining heat in the bath, but also do not collapse from exposure to high humidity and temperature, resistant to biological damage.

To preserve heat in the bath room, you will have to make a plinth that will close the free space under the floor, blown by the wind. Do-it-yourself basement cladding not only protects the floors from freezing, but also improves the appearance of the facade of the building, allowing you to design the site in a certain style.

It is easy to make concrete or wood floors with your own hands, both options have their advantages and disadvantages.

The concrete floor has a rather high cost, its construction is labor-intensive, but the service life of concrete flooring reaches over 50 years. Wooden floors are very comfortable - feet walk on warm wood, heated floor boards have a wonderful aroma of wood, the floors heat up quickly.

The wooden floor is subject to rapid deterioration with increased exposure to moisture, therefore it is short-lived. The service life of wooden floors in the baths does not exceed 7 years. However, wood is a very inexpensive material, easy to process and is not in short supply. Therefore, re-laying the floor with your own hands will not be difficult; during repairs, it is easy to insulate the old floors again.

Bath floor technology

Wooden floors in the bath on screw supports are of two types:

1. Leaking - special gaps are left between the floor boards, through which water easily penetrates under the wooden flooring, where it enters the ladder, and then into the sewer system (yard sewer networks or sewage pit). Insulation of leaking floors cannot be performed without the installation of a concrete isolated technical underground.
2. Non-leaking - floors of this design are made with a slope towards the receiving siphon, where drains from the bath room enter. In this case, the floors are made of two layers, the bottom layer is not exposed to moisture, the insulation is carried out using a reliable insulation.

Watch the video on how to make a drain in the bath floor on columnar supports.

When installing floors in a bathhouse, steam room, sauna or shower room, it is very important to provide for the correct slope, which will allow you to quickly free the wooden floor structures from water, and provide a bath with a reliable drain.

Waterproofing is laid on a wooden floor, then insulation is laid. The second layer of waterproofing film must be laid on top of the insulation layer, after which they proceed to the rough coating of the wooden floor.

The device of floors in a bathhouse on screwed piles is always provided with a slope.