Composition and types of tile adhesive: methods of application. Tile adhesive - composition, types and classification of the mixture for floor tiles How to make adhesive for ceramic tiles

A simple question can have many answers. I will give my opinion on such nonsense. In the little things lies the reason why some tiles fly off, while others cannot be torn off with a perforator.

Everyone seems to be doing the same. The glue is the same, they pour one water, and interfere with a similar mixer. But the results are different.

Glue for tiles.

And so in detail:

”How much water to add; what to pour water first or pour the mixture?

Water is poured first. So much - as indicated in the instructions. This is 6-8 liters per bag of glue (25 kg). If you knead in a 10 liter bucket - 3-4 liters per half bag. For different mixtures - different numbers. The exact value can be found on the packaging of a particular mixture.

These calculations are necessary only for beginners, for the first batches. It is impossible to make a critical mistake in proportions. If you pour water, then the glue will be liquid. It is not possible to work with such a mixture. This adhesive also has reduced strength. Excess water in both mortar and concrete is always undesirable.

Water is added first.

Thick glue (with insufficient water) is difficult to mix with a mixer. It's hard to work with him. The formation of ridges with a notched trowel is difficult. In summer, such glue quickly winds up. Sticking and smearing on tiles becomes worse. And wall tiles, with high water absorption, may not stick at all.

If you pour water first, then this gives undeniable advantages.

At the bottom, not only does there not remain dry zones during mixing, but a more liquid layer is formed than at the top. This is a plus. Until the entire batch is used up, time passes (depending on the tile and the place of laying). In an hour, especially in summer, the mixture has time to stick. But liquid glue, at the bottom, during this time, becomes optimal.

Mixing glue in a bucket.

Also, it is convenient to dissolve various glue additives in water. This is not always necessary. But sometimes it is necessary to improve the quality characteristics of the adhesive by adding an elastic

Re-mixing the adhesive mixture.

What is remixing? Astringents have such a property (cement and gypsum) as a quick setting immediately after kneading. This is clearly seen on the cement-sand mortar of a high grade (1: 1). This happens literally in 5-10 seconds. It is difficult to work with such a mixture - it becomes thick. Water cannot be added. But if you mix it again, then such a solution will be in the optimal state for work from 20 minutes to an hour. It all depends on the weather and mixture.

Re-mixing the adhesive mixture.

With a 5-minute exposure, additional impregnation of dry, unmixed lumps occurs.

How long to stir?

Stir until no dry lumps remain. Especially at the bottom. If water is poured into an already poured dry mixture, then unmixed areas will certainly remain at the bottom. Or the bottom layers will be thicker than the top. And no mixer will be able to completely mix.

At what speed should the adhesive mix be mixed?

There is common sense in this requirement. The longer you stir the glue (and at high speeds), the thinner it becomes. In this way, the density can be significantly reduced. But the time of work with such a batch is reduced. Thickening occurs faster.

An excerpt from the instructions.

This feature is reflected in another important recommendation from manufacturers of many mixtures. The meaning is something like this.

With partial solidification of the glue in the container water cannot be added. You just need to beat the mixture with a mixer. This will make it usable for some more time without compromising quality and strength.

I found a similar question on the Henkel website, better known as the manufacturer of CERESIT and THOMSIT mixtures.

Reply from the technical department.

If you add water to the glue and stir, nothing visually changes. But the strength will be lower. Dilution of hardened mortar and concrete at a construction site is a common occurrence and, it seems, nothing happens. This conclusion is wrong.

The entire process of making glue is shown in the video below. Despite English - everything is available. It is especially clear (visually) what the density of the glue should be.

But, for complete credibility, it is necessary to periodically lift the laid tiles in order to see how the space is being filled.

“... I will glue the tiles in the bathroom - where to drain the remaining glue after washing the dishes?”

Usually use a separate container (bucket or canister with a cut off top) to clean the mixer and tools from glue. For 2-3 days, the sediment from the glue accumulates and makes up more than half. The water is drained into the sewer, and the remains are thrown into the glue bag. It is better to do this in the morning - the water settled overnight, and the sediment thickened at the bottom.

If there is little sediment in the bucket, you can stir it and drain it into the sewer. Then spill with water.

Sasha asked a question:

I decided to lay the tiles in the kitchen myself, but at the same time I don’t want to spend extra money. At home there is a bag of cement left over from filling a hole in the garage. Please tell me how to make tile adhesive with your own hands, so that it is no worse than the adhesive mixture from the store.

Tiler answer:

Everyone who has planned repairs in the house is trying to save on building materials and prepare an adhesive mixture for tiles with their own hands. I will tell you a recipe that I myself have repeatedly used for laying tiles.

In order to prepare tile adhesive, you will need: a mixing container, a construction mixer, cement grades M-400 or M-500, sand, and plasticizers. I use PVA glue as plasticizers, but you can also use CMC brand wallpaper glue, washing powder, liquid soap or detergent.

What is this article about

Recipe with PVA or CMC

Having taken out all the necessary components and tools, let's move on to direct cooking. To do this, mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4, depending on the brand. We begin to add water to the dry cement-sand mixture in parts with constant stirring, achieving a homogeneous mass. At this stage, the most important thing is that there are no lumps left in the solution. After the cement-sand mortar is ready, PVA is added to it, previously diluted with water (in a ratio of 2: 1). Usually, the amount of glue added (diluted in water) is 5-10% of the volume of the cement-sand mortar. It is better to add glue in equal portions, not forgetting to mix. The preparation of the adhesive mixture ends after the required working viscosity has been reached.

And now I will tell you how to make an adhesive mixture using CMC glue. Since wallpaper paste is sold as a dry powder, before adding it to the cement-sand mortar, it must be prepared using the recommendations indicated on the product packaging. Dissolved and swollen wallpaper glue is added to the cement mortar in small portions of 200 ml. After adding CMC, the mixture is thoroughly mixed until a working viscosity is obtained.

Recipe with added detergent, liquid soap or laundry detergent

You can also prepare tile adhesive by adding liquid soap, laundry detergent or dish detergent to the cement mortar. These additives increase the fluidity of the tile adhesive and, most importantly, do not change the amount of water.

As an example, I will give my recipe for making tile adhesive with the addition of detergent. First, we prepare a cement-sand mortar. It should be done in the same proportions that I indicated above. To the finished solution, add detergent at the rate of 50-100g (or 1-2 tablespoons) per one bucket of cement. We mix the solution until a homogeneous mass is obtained and the glue is ready. It is not recommended to increase the amount of detergent, as this will lead to the formation of efflorescence after hardening.

Additives

In the manufacture of an adhesive solution for tiles, in addition to (or instead of) PVA, CMC and detergents, special additives can be added to its composition, such as: MasterTherm, superplasticizer - C3, liquid glass, dibutyl phthalate, resin additive DEG1, superplasticizer D5, etc.

They will give the adhesive such unique properties as: frost resistance, heat resistance, moisture resistance, resistance to chemicals, plasticity, increased adhesion, etc. The method of using these additives will be described in the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

And finally. To understand whether the self-made adhesive composition is ready for use, it must be applied to the tile, and if the tile moves freely along the floor in any direction, then the adhesive can be considered ready.

When laying tiles, it is very important to properly dilute the adhesive, otherwise problems will arise. Firstly, it is much more difficult to work with a liquid or too thick mass, and secondly, the quality of the masonry suffers. In addition, it is important to choose the appropriate composition for specific conditions.

The reliability of tile fixation directly depends on the correct preparation of the adhesive solution.

Types of glue and their features

Universal cement. The most popular composition. It is made from Portland cement with modifying additives, contains particles of latex and other materials. It is easy to dilute such glue, just follow the instructions on the back, observing the correct ratio of dry matter and liquid.
Reinforced. It is used to glue heavy elements, and also allows the coating to withstand more intense loads. This effect is achieved by adding strengthening ingredients.
Moisture resistant. Mainly used for surfaces in constant contact with water. Unlike conventional mixtures that break down when exposed to moisture, this adhesive has a repulsive ability, and therefore is immune to its influence. It is the ideal choice for swimming pools, saunas and bathrooms.
Polymeric. It is used indoors, as it does not tolerate temperature fluctuations and environmental influences.
Special types. Modified samples of mixtures that are designed for specific jobs. For example, for drywall and wood (the composition compensates for the movement of the material), as well as for underfloor heating and lining of furnaces (heat-resistant and refractory), external work (not afraid of frost), etc.

Prepare the solution yourself. Doing it yourself is not difficult, since the available components are used: sand, cement, water, and sometimes slaked lime.

The principle of preparing mixtures is the same.

A good substitute for tile adhesive is a homemade mortar

How to choose a quality product

Since it is not always possible to make tile adhesive correctly at home, it is much easier to purchase a ready-made mixture. Here are some tips to help you make the right choice:

Trust only trusted manufacturers. Firms with a good reputation monitor the quality of products. Little-known brands of mixtures do not guarantee that the raw materials used and the production conditions meet the standards.
Pay attention to the composition. Each type of glue has its own specific recipe. In addition, the brand of components must comply with the standards.
Date of manufacture. From the moment of manufacture to the deadline for use, only six months pass. An expired mixture loses some of its properties and it is no longer possible to glue tiles with such a composition.
Storage conditions. Dry powders should be kept indoors with a low level of humidity. This is important to preserve their qualities.
Freezing time. Normal glue sets quickly, but at the same time the master has the opportunity to correct the position of the tile during the first 20 minutes after laying.
Fixing ability. The mortar must securely hold the ceramic tiles, not slip or deform.
level of adhesion. The adhesion to the surface is ideally 1 N/mm2. This indicator also makes it clear how much force will have to be applied to remove the lining after the solution dries.

When choosing a quality adhesive, its fixing ability plays an important role.

Mixing rules

The mixture is diluted in small portions, so you have the opportunity to work without haste and lay the tiles with high quality. The proportions for preparing tile adhesive are indicated on the package, but do not rush to blindly follow them. At first, take only 2/3 of the liquid and mix with a full portion of dry powder, gradually add the remaining water until the solution acquires a suitable consistency. Add more liquid if necessary.

Since it is quite difficult to thoroughly mix the tile adhesive with your own hands, use a construction mixer. Check the density of the mass with a spatula, it should be sufficiently elastic, not lumpy, but not spread. Leave the glue for 15-20 minutes so that all the components completely swell and combine into a homogeneous mass.

For thorough mixing of the glue, it is best to use a construction mixer.

How to make a solution yourself

Since it's easy to make your own tile adhesive, you can save money on materials. To properly make the solution, you will need sand, cement and water. The proportions of dry ingredients are approximately 5:1. Glue plasticizers are replaced with slaked lime. Instead, you can use PVA, washing powder or liquid soap. At the same time, keep an eye on the amount of water.

Pre-screen materials to remove lumps and impurities.

This is the standard recipe for tile adhesive. For laying tiles in the house - quite a worthy option. In general, making a solution is not so difficult, even a beginner can handle it. And if you use ready-made glue, you will save yourself time.

Many of you have faced the need to lay tiles in an apartment or house, as it is not always possible to entrust this matter to professionals. Therefore, you have to become professionals yourself and often in a completely new business for you.

So, if you have already bought a tile, there was free time and a desire to stick it, then it remains only to prepare the adhesive mixture necessary for work. It is not difficult, you just need to have the necessary components and know some features.

The mixture is usually made from cement and sand. Cement is the binder and sand is the filler.

The sand should not be large, the maximum diameter of the grains is two millimeters.

Sand and cement must be homogeneous in composition and not contain any impurities, including clay.

The ratio of cement and sand for a dry composition is taken as one to three. That is, three buckets of sand are taken for one bucket of cement. In this case, the measure is the volume of materials, not their weight.

The dry mixture is mixed with water. But, before adding water, sand and cement must be thoroughly and evenly mixed. The finished composition should be similar in density to sour cream.

Ready glue should be used immediately, without waiting until it begins to harden.

If the solution has hardened, and you did not have time to use it, in no case should the glue be diluted with water. Otherwise, your work will be in vain, as the tile will simply fall off.
If the glue hardens, it is better not to be lazy and make a new one.

Using this adhesive, you can lay ceramic tiles not only indoors, but also outdoors. In addition, tile adhesive based on cement and sand is suitable for facade work, for applying mosaics. The surface on which the tiles are laid can be made of different materials - concrete, brick, cement plaster or gypsum. This glue is universal in application.

Dry cement-based mix can also be bought at the store. Typically, cement-based adhesive dries within a day. Therefore, manufacturers often add accelerators to ready-made dry mixes. Some ready-made mixtures dry in twenty minutes. If you have used such a "quick" mixture, do not rush to immediately overwrite the seams. It is advisable to do this the next day.

If the cement-based adhesive is not suitable for the job (the tiles are glued to a non-rigid base, for underfloor heating or outdoor work), then you can purchase a ready-made elastic paste made from synthetic binders. Sometimes such pastes are sold in dry form, in these cases they need to be diluted with water. Elastic pastes, like cement-based adhesives, are quite versatile. Due to the fact that manufacturers use many different ingredients in these pastes, they are usually frost-resistant, water-resistant and economical. Some compounds can even be used for puttying or grouting minor defects.

Before proceeding with gluing tiles, you need to “evaluate” the scope of work and calculate which glue will be more economically beneficial for you, then choose a ready-made cement mixture or elastic paste, or glue made by yourself.

If you still decide to visit a hardware store and purchase ready-made glue, then carefully read the instructions for action before use. Since different manufacturers for their products give different recommendations for use. This applies to the amount of water, mixing modes and holding before work.

Be careful and confident. And you will succeed!

Facing work in general, and do-it-yourself tiling in particular, have many specific features.

Let's leave the tile itself aside for now and focus on the adhesive for laying it.

Choose a notched trowel with a certain size of teeth in advance so that the entire side of the tile is covered with tile adhesive or mortar - for standard ceramic tiles, a trowel with a 4x4 mm tooth will do, for large and wide tiles, buy a trowel with 10 by 10 mm teeth. Proceed in principle from the fact that the thicker the tile, the more powerful the spatula should be, because the seam will also be wider.

If you are not sure or do not have enough experience yet and you are still a beginner in laying tiles on the floor and walls with your own hands, then in the process apply the mortar, tile adhesive on the wallpaper side of the surfaces (tile-floor, tile-wall) - this way the tile will be fixed more securely.

Facing materials that can be used for do-it-yourself repairs are also numerous and varied.

Even the already mentioned ceramic tiles are of several types.

And there is also porcelain stoneware, glass mosaic, natural and artificial stone. All of them are very different from each other - in weight, size, absorbency, texture, etc. To ensure reliable fastening of the cladding, you need to choose the right tile adhesive.

It would seem that there is nothing easier. The shelves of hardware stores and markets are filled to overflowing with adhesive products, consumers' eyes run wide. But therein lies the problem. It is easy to make a mistake and take not what is required at all. To avoid annoying mistakes and not confuse anything, you should not be lazy to read the annotations on the packages. It clearly states what and under what conditions this product sticks.

At the same time, the trading floor is not the most convenient place for reading. It is better to prepare in advance by obtaining all the necessary information from other sources, for example, from specialized printed or electronic publications. And to be sure, you can still consult with experts.

Do-it-yourself floor tile laying

In this case, for laying, tile adhesive was applied both to the floor and to the tile itself. For application to the floor base, an adhesive mixture with improved strength characteristics was used.

In our example, products of different formats were used to lay the tiled flooring. The main field of large-format rectangular ceramic tiles is lined with narrow metallized planks. To ensure reliable fastening of the material, the adhesive was applied both to the subfloor and to the reverse side of the tiles. In addition, an adhesive mixture with increased strength and elasticity was used for floor cladding.

In the photo 1 is a step-by-step process of laying tiles on the floor

The adhesive solution was kneaded in two stages (with a break of five minutes).
The prepared solution was applied with a notched trowel on the base and on the reverse side of the tile.
The tile was laid on the subfloor area and slightly pressed into the adhesive layer. The evenness of the coating was controlled by the level.
To ensure the same width of the joints, spacer crosses were inserted between the tiles.
The tiled floor was brought up to the wall (the wall cladding was completed after laying the floor tiles). The horizontal was checked with a level in various directions.
On the other hand, the laying of tiles was suspended at the border between the toilet and the bathroom (tile work was carried out in a combined bathroom).

Laying wall tiles

In the example in photo 2, a building-made shower cabin was tiled, for the construction of which one of the corners of the bathroom was allocated. The walls were preliminarily leveled with waterproof cement-based plaster. Then a waterproofing compound was applied. To fix the tiles, we used glue for lining pools and other objects that are in constant contact with water (including under pressure).

How to lay tiles on the walls - Photo 2

An adhesive solution is prepared (the mixture is poured into a bucket of water, mixed, stirring is repeated after five minutes).
The solution is applied with a notched trowel to the wall.
Lay tiles. Spacer crosses are installed between the rows.
The tile is slightly recessed into the adhesive solution using a special rubber hammer (mallet).
The vertical position of the tile is controlled by the building level.
All tiles must be in the same plane. To prevent the appearance of protrusions, align the tiled lining with the help of a building level.
Particular attention is paid to the section of the wall on which the water supply outlets are located for the installation of sanitary equipment (faucet, shower head).
Holes are marked in the tile, which are then cut out using special tools (tile cutter, steel rings).
When the glue has hardened and gained sufficient strength (usually after a day), they begin to fill the joints with a grout. In our example, we used a fugue in a gon tile. The seams are filled with grout. When the aggregate dries, the residue is removed with a soft cloth.

Note: Laying tiles end-to-end is strictly not recommended. A seam is required even with rectified cladding modules

At the final stage of facing works, in both cases, tile joints are filled. To do this, use joint fillers, which are often referred to as grouts or fugues. Such compositions give the cladding a complete look and, in addition, protect its rear (wall, glue) from water penetration. Grouts are selected according to the situation. If the walls are lined with standard ceramic tiles, a grout for thin joints (2-6 mm wide) is suitable. Floors need a stronger material - a more elastic grout that can fill joints up to 15 mm wide and subsequently maintain its integrity (even when exposed to underfloor heating systems). Facing of shower cabins and especially pools is “sealed” with special compositions, including two-component epoxy-based ones (for example, Kit Posa from Index, Kerarohu from Mapei, both Italy).

Aesthetically, too, everything is in order. Depending on the decorative solution, the grout is selected to match the tile or, conversely, play in contrast. Only one thing remains unchanged: all seams should be even and clear, as if lined with a ruler. To fulfill this requirement, the lining is laid according to the markup. Spacer crosses are inserted between the tiles, which help control the width of the joints. You can also read about grouting joints between tiles with your own hands.

Which tile adhesive to choose for laying tiles?

Tile adhesive is available in two versions: in the form of ready-made pastes and semi-finished dry mixes. The first option is a real gift for beginners. Adhesive pastes (Ultramastic by Mapei, Litoacril Fix by Litokol, both Italy; Drauf+Sitzt, Lugato, Germany) are unpretentious and easy to use. One has only to open the plastic bucket - and you can start laying tiles. Do not add water to the paste composition. During breaks, the container is tightly closed. But it's better not to delay using it. The limited shelf life is the main disadvantage of pasty products. Adhesive pastes are aqueous dispersions of polymers and require warm storage. When frozen, they lose their properties.

Polyurethane-based polymer composition (component A) is mixed with a hardener (component B). The result is a homogeneous paste.

Reactive adhesives not only firmly and securely fasten the tiles, but also perform the function of waterproofing.

They are used for cladding walls, facades, floors, swimming pools, etc. Polyurethane products have high elasticity and resistance to tile slippage.

They do not contain water or any other solvents. True, reactive adhesives should be stored in a dry and warm place. It remains to be noted that two-component products are relatively expensive: a five-kilogram bucket with component A plus a corresponding container with component B will cost 3-7 thousand rubles.

How to prepare dry (semi-finished) adhesive for laying tiles.

Dry adhesive mixtures contain high-quality cement, selected graded sand and various useful additives (mineral and polymeric), which give the product specific properties corresponding to the purpose.

To prepare the solution, the contents of the package are poured into a container filled with clean water at room temperature (in the proportion specified by the manufacturer). The resulting mass is kneaded with a construction mixer or an ordinary household drill with a special nozzle. Mixing the glue manually (with a trowel or plastering spatula) is just a waste of material. The adhesive solution closed with water is left alone for five to ten minutes. During the technological pause, the polymer additives are restored. Synthetic resins and other active components come into their own. Then the mixing is repeated. The resulting solution should have a uniform consistency (thick sour cream), without lumps and bubbles. The adhesive mixture is prepared taking into account its viability. An expired solution is not suitable for consumption.

We add that for heavy cladding and difficult operating conditions, tile compositions are produced that are closed with latex (a canister with a “magic” liquid is attached to a bag of dry mix). The polymer enhances the strength properties of the adhesive solution and increases its elasticity.

Facing the steps of the stairs with tiles with your own hands - photo 1-4

So, how to lay tiles on the steps of stairs - what is required for work:

Tools: brush or brush, paint brush, steel trowel, as a rule, street broom, mortar bucket, drill with stirrer, level.

Materials: putty, cement, formwork boards, long nails.

First you need to thoroughly clean the stairs from dust and dirt. With the help of a brush, the steps are thoroughly moisturized. This helps to bind dust and improve adhesion when applying fillers.
Cement mortar and putty for repairs are applied to the damaged surfaces of the stairs both as a primer and for grouting small irregularities. To do this, the mass must be fluid and suitable for spreading.
Then the formwork boards are evenly installed and fixed in the required position on the steps with the help of driven nails on the sides. The upper flat side of the board indicates the future edge of the step tread.
For grouting the surface, the solution is prepared in other proportions so that the mass is thicker, well distributed on the surface of the steps and smoothed with a steel trowel.

Note to the master: Exterior tiling

There is an opinion that it is not advisable to cover the facades with ceramics or porcelain stoneware, the glue will crack and the cladding will simply fly off.

But, as practice shows, if the building mixtures are chosen correctly, there are no problems. It is worth emphasizing that the reverse side of the tile must be completely covered with glue, otherwise voids are formed where moisture seeps through.

In cold weather, it will freeze, which is fraught with damage to the finish. If you want to completely protect yourself from all risks, it is better to use a system of hinged ventilated facades, in which tiles (any ceramic granite with a thickness of 8-9 mm or more) are mounted on a metal frame using metal fasteners.