How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands. Instructions for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside

- this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to minimize heat loss by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with an external one. We will figure out how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

The specifics of the insulation of frame houses from the outside

In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of a heat insulator is assigned directly to wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the racks of the frame and covered with a rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.

However, with poor-quality work, improperly selected thickness or density of the heat insulator, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce the cost of paying for energy resources and improve the indoor climate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among the heaters, this property can boast of: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
2. Minimum water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the heat-insulating layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and smokes little during combustion.
4. Light weight. Frames are built on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

In addition, the facade insulation for the exterior of the house must hold the linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

The choice of thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The best option for insulation for outdoor use in frame construction is basalt wool. The material is heat-efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. With a limited budget, foam or extruded polystyrene foam with flame retardants is suitable.

Video: facade insulation in a "wet" way

Introduced in 2003, the new SNiP for thermal protection imposes stringent requirements on the thermal insulation of wooden walls. If earlier a house made of timber 200 mm thick or rounded logs with a diameter of 280 mm "fit" into the standards, now they no longer meet the new standard. Of course, the owners of existing buildings may not do anything, but keep in mind that investing in the insulation of a wooden house is cheap compared to several years' bills for heating and air conditioning. Consider how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, so that it is of high quality, and the house does not lose its environmental properties.

Insulation of wooden walls

Warming methods

According to the current regulations, there are three types of external wall structures according to the number of layers.

Single layer. Bearing and thermal insulation properties are combined at the level of the building material of the building envelope. For stone houses, one can give an example of a porous large-format ceramic block or foam concrete block. For frame wooden houses - these are SIP panels.

With a thickness of expanded polystyrene in SIP panels from 20 cm, the house will be warm in any frost

As a reference! The new standards are so strict that these walls may also need to be insulated if the base material is not thick enough.

Three-layer. Walls in which the outer layer relative to the insulation is structural materials with a thickness of at least 50 mm, fixed to the base by point connections. A classic example is an insulated house lined with bricks. You can find such examples of designs of enclosing walls for wooden houses. And in this case, we are talking about brick cladding, since sheathing with imitation timber or a block house, by definition, is not suitable due to the thickness of the outer layer.

Double-layer with external thermal insulation. This is the most common way to insulate a wooden house. Moreover, such a design can be without an air gap or with a ventilated air gap.

Classic mineral wool insulation scheme with wood siding cladding

We can talk about four options for how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

"wet facade";

hinged facade;

sprayed thermal insulation

brick cladding.

The regulations indicate another type of construction - with a non-ventilated air gap. But such insulation of a wooden house is not recommended due to the characteristics of the material itself.

Features of wood as a wall material

Regardless of the structural materials of the walls, when insulating a building, it is important to follow the following rules formulated at the SNiP level:

thermal insulation must be reliably protected from the penetration of moisture into it;

access of water vapor to thermal insulation should be as limited as possible;

the arrangement of the layers should ensure the drying of the structure and prevent the accumulation of moisture in it.

The first rule is technically easy to follow. The exterior finish protects against contact with atmospheric moisture, the properties of which can be enhanced with a waterproofing membrane.

Video description

Another option to protect the tree from moisture in the video:

Protection against water vapor penetrating from inside the house is provided by appropriate vapor-tight membranes, which do not prevent the wooden walls from “breathing”, but retain larger water molecules that are in the warm air of the heated room. And here there is some contradiction with the requirement for the arrangement of layers, which should ensure the weathering of water vapor from the structure.

Wood is an unusual building material - it easily absorbs atmospheric moisture and just as easily gives it away. But if a vapor-tight membrane is fixed outside the wall, then the natural moisture transfer will be disturbed, and this is bad for wooden structures that, when wet, begin to rot. Therefore, many experts advise for wooden walls not to use films (only membranes) as waterproofing from the outside, but to abandon vapor-tight membranes altogether so as not to interfere with water vapor venting out of the wall and insulation in both directions.

Note! If you look at the websites of the leading manufacturers of ready-made systems for plaster and hinged facades (Knauf, Ceresit, Scanroc), then none of them in the structure of the "pie" has a vapor-tight membrane to protect the insulation.

Factory facade systems do not provide a vapor-tight membrane between the wall and the insulation

And the same requirements for the drying of the structure impose restrictions on the choice of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The choice of insulation for the walls of a wooden house

There is no direct prohibition on the use of polystyrene in any regulatory document. Moreover, expanded polystyrene is indicated as a heater for a wooden house in all acceptable types of structures. But its vapor permeability is much less than that of wood across the fibers (not to mention the direction along the fibers). And if it is used as thermal insulation, it will completely block the weathering of water vapor from the wooden wall to the outside.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Penoplex, also known as extruded polystyrene foam, differs from the usual one only in production technology, and its vapor permeability is just as low. Therefore, this popular thermal insulation material of the "wet facade" is not suitable for two-layer insulation of wooden walls.

The same arguments "work" against the use of spray foam. And if during the installation of expanded polystyrene there are some seams and cracks, then the seamless "shell" of vapor-tight thermal insulation will completely eliminate the possibility of excess moisture venting outward.

This method of insulation eliminates the possibility of natural ventilation of wooden walls.

Mineral wool best meets the conditions of "drying the structure." If we talk about fire safety, then in this parameter it is most suitable for warming a wooden house. And of the three types of mineral wool, stone wool is usually used. It is more difficult to work with glass wool - when fitting and assembling, small crumbs are formed from fragments of fiberglass, which are dangerous for the skin and respiratory tract. And slag wool is not recommended for warming residential buildings due to low environmental qualities.

Sprayed thermal insulation is eco-wool with a “wet” technology for applying to walls.

This is what eco-wool insulation technology looks like (wet method)

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, the facade must be prepared.

There is a standard set of measures for any type of building, which is to free the surface from hanging elements. And there are works that are typical for a wooden house - checking the condition of interventional heaters, caulking (if necessary) and treating with an antiseptic.

Insulation of a wooden house does not exclude the need for caulking interventional joints

Preparatory work must be carried out in dry weather. This is especially important for impregnating the top layer of wood with an antiseptic. The treatment process itself consists in applying the solution according to the “staining” method, and if the capillaries of the upper layer contain water, then the antiseptic will not be absorbed into the tree properly.

Treatment with an antiseptic is a mandatory step before insulating and cladding wooden walls with facade panels

Features of the "wet facade"

When fastening mineral wool to a wall in the "wet facade" system, an adhesive solution and mechanical fasteners are used. Moreover, glue plays a major role, since the number of metal heat-conducting inclusions in thermal insulation should be limited. And in order for the slabs of rigid stone wool mats to be securely fixed, the wall must be fairly even or have slight differences in “relief” in height, which can be corrected with a layer of adhesive. This condition is met only at home from a bar.

The surface of the log walls must be leveled. This can be done with OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or drywall for exterior decoration (Knauf recently presented this type of plasterboard). But plywood and OSB do not meet the requirements for the vapor permeability of the front finish of a wooden house, and in any case, crate is needed for leveling. And the use of lathing and additional materials crosses out the advantage of a “wet facade” over a ventilated one - a relatively low cost.

They use a "wet facade" for additional insulation of frame houses. And if one of the types of polymeric materials was used as an internal insulation of the thin-sheet structure of the enclosing surfaces, then foam plastic can be used for external insulation - it will not worsen the vapor permeability of the walls.

It is possible to insulate a frame house with foam

There are also peculiarities in the methods of attaching insulation to wooden walls, when self-tapping screws are used instead of dowels, and the adhesive solution is highly elastic.

Otherwise, the insulation technology has a standard sequence of work:

Along the perimeter of the basement (grillage), a starting bar is attached.

Mount the bottom row of stone wool mats. Use glue and at least 5 pcs. self-tapping screws per 1 m².

When installing the following rows, the vertical seams are shifted by at least 20 cm.

Openings of windows and doors in the corners should not have intersecting seams of insulation sheets.

The surface is reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and the corners are reinforced with a perforated corner. To fix the reinforcing elements, an adhesive solution is used.

A layer of mortar is again applied on top of the mesh (the total thickness should be about 6 cm), the surface is leveled, and after drying, it is polished.

Plastering and painting the façade.

Video description

Clearly about the wet facade in the video:

How to insulate a wooden house with foam plastic

If you wish, you can find examples of using foam to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Moreover, there is a technology that does not impair the "breathing" properties of the walls and the level of comfort, which is ensured by natural gas exchange between the premises and the street. This is achieved by creating a ventilated gap between the insulation and the wall. Moreover, in this case it does not matter what the walls are made of - from a bar or a log.

In order not to worsen the "breathing" properties of a wooden house, a ventilated gap must be created between the foam and the wall

Video description

In our video, we will look at how polystyrene is produced, is polystyrene harmful and where is it used?

The cross section looks like this:

main wall;

crate made of timber with a height of at least 60 mm (minimum size for a ventilated gap);

fixing the insulation to the crate (expanded polystyrene, EPS);

finishing with facade panels or a layer of plaster reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

But once again it must be emphasized that this method of insulation will not be cheaper than a ventilated facade. In addition, it violates the recommendations of the standards, which indicate that the air gap should be located between the insulation and the outer layer.

Video description

What happens if it is wrong to insulate with polystyrene - in the video:

Features of a hinged facade

In this case, the requirements for the peel strength of the insulation surface are not as high as for the "wet facade", so the density of the mats can be less than 125 kg/m³, but higher than 80 kg/m³.

Attention! When choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, you need to know that the use of rolled mineral wool in hinged facades is not recommended by regulatory documents.

There are ready-made systems of hinged facades with their own fastening subsystem, a set of panels and fasteners. The only drawback of such systems is the need for individual adjustment to the specific geometry of the house and walls. As a rule, these systems are designed for houses made of brick or building blocks, and aluminum sandwich panels, artificial stone, porcelain stoneware are used as cladding.

For facing wooden houses, imitation of timber, block house, planken, siding are usually used. That is, those materials that are more in line with the aesthetics of a wooden house.

If you want to change the decorative qualities of a wooden house, you can use facade panels made of artificial stone when cladding

The most common practice is the manufacture of lathing from a wooden beam - it is easy to adapt to the surface of the walls, it is easier to fix, it does not change size with temperature changes and does not serve as a "cold bridge".

Wooden crate is the easiest option

The only drawback of wooden structures is low resistance to moisture. Therefore, both the elements of the crate and the finishing panels made of natural wood must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

As a result - what other options can be considered

The article described only the two most common ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside. What is better in your case and other options should be discussed with the developer, who knows the local conditions. The use of eco-wool has not yet become widespread, although the technology is quite simple - mounting the crate to the wall, applying a “wet” insulation (mixed with glue) to the surface with the help of special equipment, sheathing with facade panels along the crate. Brick cladding on flexible connections follows the same rules as for a stone house, with the only restriction on the choice of insulation - the use of only mineral wool.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, when installing any type of insulation, there are a sufficient number of pitfalls that must be taken into account so that all the work is not done in vain. If there is no experience, then it is always better to invite a professional, especially since self-respecting developers perform all work under the contract and give a guarantee.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house is an important stage in the construction of a country cottage. Insulation solves several problems at once: it provides thermal insulation and retains heat in the room for a long time, protects from noise and wind. In addition, it is convenient to lay the finishing of the facade on the insulation. Experts recommend insulating the walls of the house from the outside, since internal work reduces the space inside the building and does not provide full-fledged effective insulation.

In this article, we will look at how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Warming a wooden house from the outside includes three main stages. First of all, you need to calculate and select the material. Then follows the laying of insulation and, at the end, the finishing of the facade. First, let's look at how to choose the right insulation for the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Which heater to choose

Today, manufacturers offer various types of heaters. When choosing a material, pay attention not only to the cost and ease of installation. High-quality insulation should have low water permeability, high thermal insulation and vapor permeability, resistance to fires and rodents. It is desirable that it be a natural material that does not violate the environmental friendliness of wood. If you are insulating walls with your own hands, the insulation should be easy to use.

The most suitable material for insulating wooden walls is mineral wool. It guarantees high thermal insulation, allows air to pass through (ventilated) and allows the wood to “breathe”. Mineral wool is distinguished by softness and elasticity, simple calculations and installation. Therefore, you can easily lay the material with your own hands. Mineral wool effectively fills cracks and voids. In addition, rodents will not be able to damage the product, and the low weight of the insulation will not create a load on the walls and foundation of the house.

The second most popular insulation for wooden walls is polystyrene foam. It represents foam in sheets. This is a good and effective insulation that will keep the heat in the room for a long time. It is characterized by light weight and easy installation, high sound insulation properties and long service life.

However, such material “does not breathe” and is not ventilated, which is bad for natural wood. As a result, the walls will gradually rot and mold. In addition, the foam plastic can be damaged by rodents, and in the event of a fire, the insulation will slowly smolder, which is very dangerous.

Experts recommend using mineral wool to insulate the walls of a wooden house. Mineral wool is produced in layers or in rolls in slabs. The material in the plates is more convenient to use and during installation, which is important when doing do-it-yourself work.

Top best mineral wool manufacturers

rockwool

The heaters of this Danish company absorb noise and vibration, are distinguished by high thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and fire safety. Such material will last a long time without deformation and destruction. It will not crumble either during installation or during operation. Be careful, as fake products of this company are often found on the market!

Isover

The French company offers a wide range of mineral wool, which guarantees protection from cold and noise, increases the energy efficiency and comfort of a wooden house. The materials have several environmental quality certificates, which confirms the environmental friendliness and durability of the insulation. In the catalogs of the company you will find modern products with high strength and elasticity, without dust and “pricklyness”.

Paroc

The mineral wool of the Finnish company is characterized by high thermal insulation, fire resistance, durability and environmental friendliness. The big advantage of this insulation is energy efficiency, because the material saves thermal energy. Mineral wool Paroc protects against noise and dust, but has a rather high price.

Knauf

These are Russian heaters with high rates of vapor permeability, heat and sound insulation. The material is characterized by increased fire safety and environmental friendliness, strength and durability, resistance to mold and bacteria. Knauf mineral wool is distinguished by easy installation with low dust generation and no strong odor.

Ursa

Mineral wool made from natural and naturally renewable components. The material is distinguished by rigidity and strength, high heat and sound insulation, incombustibility and long service life. Experts recommend the new generation of PureOne cookers as they meet every requirement for quality and environmental friendliness.

Ursa PureOne is 1.5 times more rigid and durable than other thermal insulators! The material does not prick, does not crumble and does not deform. However, it is not among the top three products, as it strongly collects dust and emits an unpleasant odor during installation. Therefore, during installation, be sure to use special protection!

Beltep

A good and inexpensive mineral insulation with a wide choice of models in terms of density. The material is characterized by high vapor permeability, fire safety and environmental friendliness, resistance to deformation. Minvata Beltep will provide acoustic comfort for the room.

Izovol

Mineral wool with good sound and heat insulation properties, increased fire safety and environmental friendliness. Non-combustible material has an average density, suitable for wall insulation, shed and mansard roofs. But keep in mind that the insulation crumbles slightly when laying and is difficult to cut.

TechnoNIKOL

The largest manufacturer, which represents a wide range of heaters. Materials are distinguished by environmental friendliness and fire safety, high heat and sound insulation. But despite the popularity and availability of the material, he collected a lot of negative reviews. The mineral wool of this company is deformed and crumbles during installation. In addition, packs often come across slabs that are different in structure and density. Some sheets are much thinner than the indicated values.

wall insulation technology

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside is best done in the warm season. Before starting work, the surface of the walls is prepared for insulation. Preparation includes cleaning logs, repairing cracks and treating wood with protective agents. Antiseptics will protect wooden materials from rotting and mold, and flame retardants will prevent fire from spreading over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls in case of fire.

Two days after the processing of the wooden walls, they proceed to the waterproofing layer. As waterproofing, aluminum foil, standard polyethylene or special porous insulating film is used. When laying the insulating film with your own hands, make sure that the porous surface lies inward “facing” to the wall.

The waterproofing material is laid horizontally from below with an overlap of 10-15 cm and gradually lifted up. The film or foil is attached to the surface of the walls with brackets using a construction stapler. The joints are carefully glued with construction tape.

A crate of bars or boards with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation is laid on the waterproofing layer. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm. For a wooden wall with a thickness of 20 cm and temperatures in winter up to minus 20, one layer of mineral wool is enough. In colder winters, two or three coats should be applied. The distance between the bars or boards is made 3-5 centimeters less than the width of the insulation.

The next step is the installation of insulation. Mineral wool is easy to install with your own hands. If necessary, the plates are cut. Through the cotton wool with an interval of 50 cm, a hole is made in the wall and an anchor is driven in, and a core is driven into the anchor. When working with mineral wool, wear a protective mask and goggles!

Waterproofing is once again laid on the insulation layer, which is fastened with brackets to the crate. Then a counter-lattice is made of bars or slats with a section of 50x50 mm. It is desirable that the wooden materials of the battens and counter battens be treated with antiseptics! This will increase the life of the structure.

The final stage

At the end, the facade is finished. Block house, lining, siding and even brick are used as finishing materials. Experts recommend using natural material, such as wooden lining, block house or timber. This will preserve the aesthetics and harmony of a wooden house.

The above finishing materials are also easy to install with your own hands. During installation, it is important to fasten the products close to each other and not leave gaps and crevices through which moisture or insects can enter the wooden walls.

Caulking and wall sealing

But what if you want to keep the log house in its original form, and at the same time use the building for permanent residence? Indeed, without insulation in such a cottage it will be cold. In this case, insulation and sealing of the seams are used.

After installing the log house, the walls are caulked, i.e. lay logs with insulation. The material used is jute, moss or tow. Installation starts from the bottom crown, go along the perimeter of the house and only then move on to the next crown. First, insulation is done inside the house, and then outside.

Warming and finishing are performed only after shrinkage of a wooden house!

To consolidate the result, the seams between the logs inside and outside the house are sealed. Experts recommend using acrylic sealants (“warm seam”). Such material is distinguished by environmental friendliness, durability, good thermal and waterproofing. In addition, the sealant is easy to use and install.

To properly insulate wooden walls from the outside, you need to choose a high-quality insulation and follow the laying technology. External insulation will require serious financial and time investments, but as a result, you will get annual savings on heating your home. In addition, living in such a room will be comfortable, and the service life of the structure and wood will increase.

If you do not know which insulation to choose and how to install the insulation of wooden walls, contact the professionals! Masters "MariSrub" will select and calculate the necessary heat-insulating materials, reliably and quickly perform work on the insulation and decoration of a wooden house, cottage or bath.

Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the low weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation, stone wool is placed in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.

Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:

• dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
• wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.

polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances, which begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.

Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, are inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

The key to a quality repair is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. Linen fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.

House insulation with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under a layer of exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Glassine sheets are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next, you need to seal the gaps with mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a finishing layer can be applied with decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses made of timber should be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail slats on top of the wooden frame, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: home insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing of the external walls will be done. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming the house with mineral wool: video

In most cases, rural residents are interested in warming wooden houses, where half of the houses are built of wood. In order for the house to be warm, it is comfortable to insulate it from the outside, while maintaining the internal dimensions of the rooms. But not everyone knows how to properly insulate a house, what insulation materials to use. This article provides information on the technology of insulation of wooden houses from the outside, various insulation materials that are used to insulate wooden houses, their advantages and disadvantages.

Features of warming wooden houses

The wood from which the house is built evaporates moisture. Therefore, when carrying out work on the insulation of wooden houses from the outside, it is necessary provide ventilation walls in order to avoid covering the wood with mold, fungus. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside helps to protect it from exposure to low temperatures, condensation. Before warming up the house lay the vapor barrier and install the frame.

It is mounted vertically from dry wooden slats or a metal profile. The rail height should match the thickness insulation, and the installation step of the rails by 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation, so that the insulation material fits snugly into the frame and does not form cracks. For fixing thermal insulation material construction staples or nails. A windproof film is attached over the insulation, which has the properties of releasing moisture from the walls and does not let moisture in from the outside. the last stage involves wall cladding.

wooden house outside: 1 - insulated wooden wall; 2 - layer of vapor barrier; 3 - insulating material; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - facing material.

If a wooden house is faced with brick, stone slabs must provide holes, so that air enters the ventilation space.

When choosing a material as a heater for a wooden house, it is necessary know their properties which play an important role.

Varieties of materials for external insulation

To insulate a wooden house from the outside, the industry produces many artificial and natural insulating materials. Artificial materials have strength properties, reliability, but at the same time they do not allow air to pass through, which leads to the accumulation of moisture inside the wooden walls, thereby destroying them. When using artificial insulation, it is necessary to make a good vapor barrier and ventilation of the house. Consider some types of heaters that are used to insulate the outside of a wooden house.

It is a fibrous heat-insulating material on a synthetic basis. Contains formaldehyde adhesive.

Advantages:

• has a high temperature threshold;
• does not melt or burn.

Disadvantages:

• does not protect the tree from mold;
• releases toxic substances at high temperatures.

glass wool- a kind of mineral wool, which contains components such as quartz sand, recycled glass.

Advantages:

• has strength;
• does not burn.

Disadvantages:

• melts at high temperature;
• releases toxic substances;
• encourages fungal growth.

This insulation has a cellular structure and is made of expanded polystyrene.

Advantages:

Disadvantages:

• easily destroyed when exposed to solvents;
• difficulty in fitting and cutting;
• vapor tightness is often a disadvantage rather than an advantage.

Styrofoam- insulation consists of a large number of balls filled with air.

Advantages:

• excellent sound insulation;
• ease of installation;
• withstands temperature changes;
• density;
• not subject to swelling and decay;
• durability.

Disadvantages:

• low vapor permeability;
• not fire resistant;
• is not environmentally friendly.

Ecowool- modern insulation material, made of 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptic, a substance that protects it from rodents, mold. They can insulate any room.

Advantages:

• reliability;
• inedible for rodents;
• prevents the formation of mold and fungi.
• low thermal conductivity;
• environmentally friendly.

Disadvantages:

• installation requires special equipment;
• undergoes shrinkage;
• smolders when exposed to high temperatures.

There are other thermal insulation materials that can be insulated wooden houses outside.

The procedure for warming the house with mineral wool

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool, subject to the laying technology, you can perform on your own.

Before starting work on warming the house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces of the walls: clean them from dust, various contaminants and treat them with an antiseptic.

The procedure for warming the outside of the house with mineral wool involves five stages:

1. Stage one is vapor barrier installation, which provides ventilation and prevents rotting of the house. For vapor barrier use a special film, roofing material or aluminum foil. It is impossible to lay vapor barrier material directly on the wall, so as not to expose the walls to fungus or mold. To do this, it is necessary to leave between the wall and the vapor barrier material ventilation space.
2. Stage two - provides wood frame manufacturing for insulating material. The frame is made of wooden slats, which are attached vertically to the wall and should be 1-2 cm smaller than the size of the mineral wool slab.
3. The third stage is laying a layer of insulation. Insulation with mineral wool is recommended to be laid in two layers in such a way that the joint of the first layer lies in the middle of the second. No cracks are allowed. For reliability, the insulation is fixed with metal or plastic anchors.
4. Stage four consists of waterproofing, which prevents water ingress for insulation and walls.
5. And the final fifth stage - house cladding outside. The sheathing material is attached to a wooden crate made of a 4 × 5 cm bar. Thanks to new modern technologies, a wide choice of exterior coatings is available on the market, which will give the house an aesthetic look.

Styrofoam insulation technology

To insulate a wooden house with polystyrene foam, you will need:

Before warming the house, first of all, check joints between logs or beams. If the insulating material does not fit snugly, it must be laid again. Then attached to the walls vertically boards so that the distance between the centers corresponds to the width of the foam board. To do this, it is necessary to accurately maintain the fastening step of the boards, which will be equal to H + S-5. H - means the thickness of the board; S is the width of the foam sheet; 5 mm - the value that provides the tightness of the foam during installation. The main thing so that all boards are in the same vertical plane.

Further, they nail into the fixed boards in the center wooden slats, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the foam board, and the mounting distance of the rails should be 0.5 cm less than the width of the foam sheet.

Styrofoam slabs stacked from below and fit tightly into the frame without the formation of cracks. If the plates are not laid tightly, they are fixed with foam wedges or nails.

After laying the foam in horizontal stripes from top to bottom, it is laid diffusion membrane, which overlaps the foam joints by 10-15 mm. The membrane is attached with a stapler to the frame, and the joints are glued with ordinary adhesive tape. When laying waterproofing material, read the instructions for its use.

Then comes the final stage - house cladding facing material. The lining material can be whatever you choose.

Insulation with polystyrene (foam)

When insulating a wooden house from the outside with foam, it is necessary to follow the technology. Between the foam and the wall should be ventilation space. Like other heaters, it cannot be mounted directly on the walls to prevent rotting of the wooden walls. They start warming the outside with foam plastic of a wooden house with the installation of a wooden crate.

The crate is made of slats with a section of 50 × 50 mm. Then the foam boards are laid in the crate. If the house is built of timber, then wooden slats with a section of 30 × 40 mm are laid between the foam and the wall to ensure ventilation. The log walls of the house do not require the laying of slats, as the irregularities between the logs will serve as a ventilation space. Completes the insulation from the outside with foam plastic of a wooden house - siding lining, brick or other facing materials.

Insulation of a wooden house for siding

In order to sheathe a wooden house with siding with insulation, it is first necessary to prepare the surface of the walls. Should follow the instructions. To begin with, ebbs, platbands, window sills and other existing elements that will interfere with the installation of the frame are removed. All cracks fill with tow or special sealants, and also level the surface.

Walls are treated moisture protective agent and fire-retardant primer with their subsequent drying. Facing the house with siding is carried out at any time of the year, provided that the air temperature should not be below 10ºС, since siding crumbles in the cold when cutting.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• saw blade with fine teeth;
• square;
• metal scissors;
• a hammer;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• stairs;
• Bulgarian.

The technology of facing a wooden house with siding, except for panels, provides for the use such elements:

• starting rail - mounted under the first row of panels;
• J-panel - necessary when installing spotlights and for edging vertical sections;
• H-profile - used to connect panels;
• wind panel - mounted on the ends of the roof to protect them from the wind;
• internal and external corners - used for sheathing the corners of the house;
• platbands and ebbs - used for decorative design of windows and doorways.

The technology of warming a wooden house and siding is not complicated:

• a vapor barrier film is attached;
• heat-insulating material is laid in a wooden crate;
• cover the thermal insulation with a windproof film;
• installing panels.

Before sheathing a house with siding with insulation, you need to conduct a vapor barrier which we fix on thin rails with a section of 30 × 20 mm. The vapor barrier film cannot be fixed directly to the walls. Further produced framing installation. It is made from dry wooden slats, which are treated with an antiseptic. Reiki are placed in increments of 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation plate, their thickness depends on the insulation material. Then they are placed in the crate thermal insulation material, which is covered with a windproof film. After the completion of thermal and waterproofing, they begin to fasten the rails on which the panels will be mounted. The slats are placed after 30-40 cm.

Sheathing the house with siding is carried out in the following order. Panel mounting start with the installation of drainage, which protects the foundation base from water and snow. Install the drainage strictly according to the level, since the quality of the installation of the panels themselves depends on it. On top of it, a starting rail is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are twisted in such a way that between the cap and the mounting plate there is a gap of 1 mm.

The first panel is applied to the starting rail and snapped into the lock until it clicks. The panel is fixed by screwing it with self-tapping screws in the center of the holes to the crate. And so on, carry out the installation of panels. After sheathing the walls with siding, they begin to install its additional elements. They mount internal and external corners, trim windows and doors with J-slats or platbands, fix them under the roof finishing strips. From below, a special perforated bar is attached to the visors, into which spotlights are inserted.

We have provided information on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, what heaters are used. From this information, it can be concluded that proper home insulation will give it a comfortable microclimate, reliably protect it from the effects of precipitation, and since the insulation of a wooden house from the outside provides for surface cladding, thanks to it the house will have aesthetic appearance.