The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The slot width is 5–8 cm. For. the strength of the furnace is finished with steel corners.

The stone chamber has two doors, often chimneys are made to pass flue gases from the space around the channel to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Foundation. The construction of a massive brick stove-heater begins with the installation of its foundation. So that the furnace does not settle and does not tilt due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation is deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions must be larger than that of the furnace by 1 brick (half a brick in each direction ). The distance from the foundation of the furnace to the foundation of the wall is at least 5 cm. The gap between them is filled with sand. The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled.

The best foundation is concrete or rubble concrete. In dry soil, it can be made of bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Lime mortar is prepared from slaked lime and sifted sand, taken in a ratio of 1:2 to 1:3. Cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is usually 1: 3) is prepared in small portions in order to have time to use it before setting. To prepare a lime-cement mortar, take 1-2 hours of lime and 6-16 hours of sand for 1 hour of cement, depending on the brand of cement and the fat content of lime. The surface of the foundation is poured cement mortar, leveled with a rail and covered with waterproofing, usually roofing felt or roofing material in 2 layers.

Masonry material. The main material for laying furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the 1st grade.

It is not allowed to use perforated and silicate bricks because they break down quickly. Hard-melting and refractory bricks are recommended for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Hard-melting bricks are suitable for burning firewood, refractory (chamotte) - for burning coal, liquid fuel, gas. Often furnaces are built from used bricks. They must be cleaned of mortar and soot. Put them with the smoky side inward, otherwise rust spots from soot they will come out into the open even through plaster and whitewash. Before use, bricks (except for refractory and refractory ones) are immersed in water for 1–1.5 minutes, since dry brick dehydrates the mortar and reduces its binding capacity.

The mortar for laying the furnace is prepared from clay and sand, taken in a ratio of 1:1 to 1:2, depending on the fat content of the clay. Clay should be soaked 1 day before laying. Then water is added to it in such an amount that, after mixing, a creamy mass is obtained. This mass is filtered through a sieve, the same amount of sand is added and mixed thoroughly. The sand must be passed through a 1.5 mm sieve. If watery areas (lakes) appear on the surface of the solution, then add sand and mix the mass again. A good solution does not contain lumps, has a rough surface, does not stick to a shovel and is easily squeezed out of the masonry seam when you press the brick with your hand. For laying refractory and refractory bricks, a solution of clay and mountain sand or fireclay is used.

Seams. The main requirement for masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams so that even a small amount of combustion products that can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning do not penetrate into the bathhouse. Masonry seams are filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal: for ordinary bricks no more than 5 mm, for refractory and refractory bricks - no more than 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution is spread by hand, from the master it can be put only to the bottom of the top-liver and the bottom of the smoke channels.

The inner surfaces of the furnaces must be smooth, therefore, chipped and sledge bricks are laid with rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a wash brush or a rag soaked in water without adding a solution.

The laying of the next row is started only when all the bricks of the previous row are laid. It is advisable to first lay the bricks of each row and fit them together, and then put them on the mortar.

Checking the correct angles. After laying the first row, check the correctness of the corners with a square or cord. After laying the 2nd row, guide cords with cut-offs are installed at the corners of the oven. The cords are hung with nails from the ceiling, and from below they are wound on nails pressed into the seams between the bottom two rows.

Binding of bricks. When laying bricks, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for ligation of bricks: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the upper row. Bonding of ordinary brick masonry with refractory or refractory brick masonry is not allowed, as they expand differently with increasing temperature.

Furnace appliances. Furnace instrument doors, valves, grates, stoves, hot water boxes (built-in water tanks) - are installed simultaneously with bricklaying. The frame of the door is fixed in the masonry by means of paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The paws are attached to the frame with rivets. Before installation in place, the frame is wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. In the absence of asbestos, a gap of 3–4 mm wide is left between the frame of the firebox door and the brickwork, so that the frame, when heated, does not push the masonry apart. To ensure the strength of the jumper from above, the door of the firebox is blocked in the “lock” way (the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks). Other doors and frames of dampers (latches) are fixed in the masonry with 2 mm wire (the wire is embedded in the masonry).

Grate. The grate is installed with slots along the firebox. A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the edges of the grate and the masonry bricks to expand the grate. The gap is filled with sand. The same gap is left between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

Fuel tank. An important part of the stove is the top-liver. For wood burning, its smallest width is 25 cm (in one brick), the smallest height is 35 cm. With an increase in the height of the firebox, the conditions for burning fuel improve. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm, depending on the size of the furnace. In the lower part of the wall of the firebox, they are made with a slope towards the grate, so that during combustion, the coals settle on the grate. Under the firebox, they are located below the frame of the furnace door by at least 1 brick, otherwise coals will fall out when the door is opened. It is desirable to make the bottom of the ash pan also below the blower door.

Smoke circulation. The uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace depend on the design of its smoke circuits - channels for flue gases. Their inner surface should be even and not smeared with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and clogs the chimneys.

Overlapping. The upper wall of the furnace, called the ceiling, consists of three rows of bricks laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the ceiling coincide, they must be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

Pipe. The pipe for the heater is usually made mounted, that is, on the stove array. At the same time, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and the pipe must be at least half a brick, the cross section of the smoke channels and pipes must also be at least half a brick.

The pipe is brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface using cement or lime mortar (clay mortar is easily washed out by rain and condensate that can form inside the pipe).

Safety measures at work. When constructing the oven, care must be taken not to fall or drop bricks or tools. To work on the roof, a horizontal platform is installed for the stove and a box or bucket with a solution. The site must be fenced from the side of the slope and attached to the rafters. If the platform is small, then the stove-maker must put on a safety belt tied to a reliable part of the roof. The shackle and eyes of the bucket must be tested for strength.

After completion of construction and drying, the furnace is tested with a trial firebox, which is carried out in the presence of fire authorities. At the same time, an act on the safety of the furnace must be drawn up.

Measures fire safety. For the purposes of fire safety, the distance between the brick surface of the stove and the combustible structure (wooden parts of the bath) must be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and at least 25 cm if such protection is available. If the furnace and the pipe are metal, then these distances are increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. There must be a free distance of at least 10 cm between the brick pipe and the wooden parts of the roof (rafters, sheathing, sheathing).

When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally upholstered with roofing steel. The gap between the pipe and the roof is closed with a galvanized steel apron. On a wooden floor in front of the furnace door, a metal sheet with a size of at least 70 × 50 cm is installed.

Plastering. For greater safety and giving a pleasant appearance, the oven is plastered with solutions of the following composition (by volume):

• gypsum: lime: sand 2:2:1
• clay: lime: sand 1:1:3
• clay:sand 1:2
• clay: cement: sand 1:1:3

It is desirable to add 0.1–0.2 hours of asbestos to any solution. It should be taken into account that the mortar with gypsum can set in 15-20 minutes.

Preparing for plaster. For plastering, the surface of a completely dried oven is cleaned of clay, the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm. It is even better to cover the stove with a grid with cells of at least 15 × 15 mm, attaching it with nails and washers, or wrap it with wire, also attached to the walls of the stove with nails.

The sequence of applying layers and whitewashing. To ensure the thermal expansion of the individual parts of the furnace, it is heated until it warms up well, moistened with water and a continuous layer of plaster is applied. After setting the first layer, a second layer of plaster is applied, then the next one. The total thickness of the layers should be 10–15 mm. The last layer is carefully leveled and rubbed. If the plaster is made with lime and has a gray surface, it is not necessary to pour it white. A very dark plaster surface can be whitewashed with a solution of lime and a small amount of clay added so that the painted surface is gray instead of bright white, which will irritate the eyes. Be sure to whitewash the pipe within the attic to make it easier to detect cracks.

Pipe processing. If the pipe is metal or asbestos-cement, then the junction of it with brickwork must be sealed with a waterproof mortar (cement or lime-cement), and the outside of the pipe must be covered with thermal insulation, otherwise in a cooled pipe (at a flue gas temperature below 100 ° C) condensation will form, which impregnates with moisture and destroys the upper bricks of the furnace, reduces draft, and in winter it can lead to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.

Pipe insulation. Pipe insulation is performed by enclosing it in a sheet steel casing. The gap between them with a width of about 5 cm is filled with mineral wool.

Deflector. To improve traction and protect the pipe from precipitation, a deflector is installed on its upper end, which ensures the suction of gases from the pipe using the wind.

Before dealing with the issue of installing stoves for a bath, we ourselves spent a lot of time studying this topic. Therefore, we know that people who have an idea about the designs of sauna stoves usually do not condescend to explain everything from the basics, and most of the texts on the Internet are completely written by those who are not at all in the subject.

Bath stove designs: common points and differences for different types

So what is a stove? This is a fire built inside a container. But combustion is an oxidation reaction of fuel, therefore, it cannot occur without oxygen. Therefore, we will call the oven the container through which, at least temporarily, with the dampers open, flowing air moves.

thrust

This movement is called "pull" and it occurs when there is inlet and outlet holes.

Of course, such a definition suffers from incompleteness, because it does not apply to electric heaters. IN They are heated by the passage of current through a material with high resistance. In this case, heat is released.

But back to furnaces, where heat is released due to chemical reaction. The art of the stove-maker consists in skillfully varying the amount of incoming air, the amount of firewood in the bookmark, in order to achieve them uniform combustion and maximum complete combustion.

What will happen if the combustion is still ongoing, and the air is blocked? Instead of carbon dioxide, dangerous monoxide will begin to form - carbon monoxide. But why block the pipe if it is so dangerous? — The draft is blocked so as not to dry out the stove when the firewood burned out, because along with the air, heat also flies into the pipe.

So, we know about the role of air. Let's see the diagram the simplest furnace with traction. What must be in it? Three things:

• air inlet (blower or firebox door);
• firebox (aka firebox);
• outlet (chimney).

The first division of stoves can be carried out according to the presence or absence of a blower: without it, they are called "deaf hearth ovens". In this case, air is supplied through the open firebox door. Here's what it looks like in cross section:

Kamenka

Now let's ask a question: what do all sauna stoves have, but absent from stoves that heat houses? Of course it is heater. The container in which the stones lie is available for all stoves in the bath, even for. The stones themselves are used as batteries- they store heat. This is necessary so that the high temperature in the steam room lasts longer. Their other function is creation light steam , but in this capacity they are needed only in a Russian bath.

There are two classifications of heaters according to different criteria: one takes into account contact with fire in the furnace, the second - contact with air.

If there are gaps between the firebox and the heater through which the stones are licked by flames, then this flow heater.

If the barrier is deaf, then the heater is called deaf.

When the container with stones is inside.

Furnaces are either brick, or metal. No other is given. The former are considered very inertial - It takes hours to heat them up, as well as to cool them down.. The latter are able to heat up in half an hour and during the same time have time to overheat the steam room. Excellent property!

When choosing a design, you determine for yourself how inertial its body should be. At your disposal are not only "clean" options: purely brick, purely, but also combined. For example, to increase the inertia of a metal stove, you can either use internal lining of the firebox and heater, or with the help of external casing-sarcophagus. Moreover, the option with a casing and lining at the same time is not excluded).

Important! Answer the question, what time is optimal for you to kindle the furnace - it determines the degree of inertia of the body.

Smoke

What happens when fuel burns? Heat is released, combustion products are formed - steam, gases and solids. The latter we call soot, soot, and all together - smoke. At the time of exit from the furnace, this mixture is also heated to several hundred degrees. And if you don't put some heat-consuming obstacle, all this heat will corny fly away into the pipe to enhance the greenhouse effect on our planet.

However, once upon a time not only obstacles, but also pipes did not exist. Because it was not from wood that they were made! Therefore, the first method of removing smoke is chimneyless, "black".

In the simplest version, this pile of stones stacked over a fire. In the modern version, this is a brick hearth, which keeps the same pile of stones from spreading. But the principle is the same: he made a fire under the stones, waited for the firewood to burn out, let the smoke out into the street through or - and you can bathe by pouring water on the heated stones.

Then appears smoke box- akin kitchen hood- the same separated from the oven. A similar option can still be found in the bath today.

Then appears chimney pipe. And if it is inserted into the stove without any fuss (it doesn’t matter in the firebox or heater), then such a stove will be called once-through. Heat here is not taken from the furnace gases, so it has the lowest efficiency.

But heat is a pity, so the idea of ​​the inventors went this way: what if we increase the path that smoke passes inside the furnace? This is how the system came into being. smoke circulation, where the smoke runs with obstacles inside the channels that lead it up and down, or horizontally to the right and left. The system is excellent for heat extraction, but with its drawbacks - channels, especially horizontal ones, should be cleaned regularly otherwise there will be no traction.

An alternative to the smoke circulation system has become bell stove. There are no channels in it, it practically does not depend on traction. Hot furnace gases, leaving the firebox, find themselves under a hood, where they actively share heat with the furnace mass. New portions of hot furnace gases rise, displacing the cooled ones down and into the chimney.

but everything said about the chimney primarily refers to brick stoves. You rarely see a metal stove with smoke circulation. Usually they are primitive - direct-flow, except that they have flame dividers. Yes, and their dimensions are much smaller than those of brick ones, there you can’t walk around with moves, and there is no heat-intensive material - where to take the heat?

The stove ends with a chimney. Remains optional - tank or heat exchanger, which can also be indicated on the sauna stove diagram. But it is better to talk about this when analyzing specific structures, to which, in fact, we are moving on.

Scheme of a brick sauna stove

From what has been said above, it already follows that circuit diagrams several brick ovens:

• straight-through;
• with smoke circulation;
• bell-shaped.

However, each allows for many implementation options. In other words, the above diagrams clearly demonstrate the characteristic, but do not exhaust the possible.

Sauna oven device: direct-flow

Furnace made of metal with a lined fuel core

Lining is the laying out of fireclay or simply refractory bricks of the insides of the stove. At the same time, the inertia sharply increases, and with it, the heating time. So, if you need to overheat the steam room in half an hour, the lining will be superfluous.

BUT! She has one important plus: it increases the life of the furnace, because its body is subjected to less temperature stress. And this is in addition to the fact that such an oven keeps heat longer.

We show the most a simple circuit with firebox lining and closed heater:

Options for the location of the water tank on a metal stove

Above, you have already seen that the tank can simply be placed on top of the stove and everything will heat up. But you can do it differently.

Below - schemes for combining the heater and the tank, from the simplest ones, where a bucket is buried in stones or a heater is brought into a separate container where furnace gases enter, while the tank stands directly above the fire (the water boils before the stones heat up) to variations on the rational use of the top of the furnace, where you can separate the space for the tank horizontally or vertically, or you can go around the heater on both sides, leaving an air pocket on one of the opposite sides, which, as they say, promotes heat transfer. Full details are provided.

Options for the location of the tank and heater:

Yes, and of course, always when there is a need for hot water, you can replace the tank with a heat exchanger of one type or another. If you are interested in learning more about this, read on.

Metal heater from a pipe

On our website you can find, which tells how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the schemes themselves with some comments.

So, the choice of the owner has two options for a stove from a pipe:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Usually take a pipe half a meter in diameter. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside(or you can leave it as is, then it will burn out faster). Fireclay along the walls is shown in yellow.

Also, the owner is free to choose a stove with a deaf hearth or blower. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the oven door with a blind hearth- in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow if the pipe is not blocked at the top with a gate valve. If you lengthen it a little due to the blower, then the thrust will be regulated by opening blower door. Then the holes become redundant.

The water tank is shown in both pictures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the furnace - this for ease of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bath.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it turns out a heater open. This is a welded stone basket - with this stove good steam not receive.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) recognizable, but in reality its grate perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to back wall stoves.

Useful video

Not just diagrams, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of vertical and horizontal design(not necessarily from a pipe). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more schemes, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you succeed. So sauna lovers can not watch it).

We hope that you still received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. The rest can only be learned through practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

Where could I buy

Useful information can also be obtained from professionals - employees of different types.

In contact with

The main place in the bath is occupied by a stove-heater. It can be permanent or intermittent.

Bake permanent action has thin walls and a small volume of stones. As a rule, it can maintain a temperature of 300 to 350 ° C and is equipped with an automatic control and regulation device. Such a furnace is heated with the help of electricity, solid, liquid or gaseous fuels. In this type of furnace, the combustion chamber and flue gas channels are fenced off by a steel wall or a cast-iron plate from stone filling.

Bake periodical action It has thick brickwork and a large volume of stones. The stone filling of the furnace in the lower part can be heated up to 1100 ° C, and in the upper part - up to 500 ° C. Furnaces of this type are heated, as a rule, with firewood. Maximum heat production with minimum fuel use is possible only if the fuel burns completely. This is largely facilitated by the use of grates. Through them, the air from the blower has uniform access to the entire surface of the fuel. It is possible to increase the efficiency of the furnace by increasing the volume of its heating parts and reducing the thickness and thermal conductivity of the walls.

The device of the stove-heater

The main part of any stove-heater is the firebox, which is a chamber for burning fuel. In fireboxes intended for solid fuels, a grate is located at a depth of 30 cm from the level of the door. The walls of the firebox should be slightly beveled so that as it burns solid fuel rolled onto the grate.

Under the grate there is an ash pan designed to collect ash and regulate the air entering the furnace compartment. Air passes through the layer of fuel and contributes to its complete combustion. You can increase or decrease the air supply using blower door.

To control the draft in the chimney or in the chimney, a valve is installed. It closes only after the fuel burns out completely. Otherwise, carbon monoxide accumulated in the oven can lead to severe poisoning.

stones in the heater, it is better to put it on a grate of steel rods located above the firebox.

In furnaces closed type at the level of the upper row of stones, a special steam door. It opens directly before using the steam room. You can heat water in tank or in serpentine. The tank is installed in the furnace, and the coil - in the firebox.

Continuous heater

The most convenient among the stoves of continuous operation is the stove-heater with electric heating.

To heat the bath, as a rule, a closed-type electric furnace with a metal box at the top filled with stones is used. Such an oven is capable of heating the air up to 110–120 ° C. In the sauna, the number of stones in the box should be minimal, and in the bath with wet steam, the maximum.

There are also no gaseous stoves on sale. Instead, many use convectors, heaters, fireplaces that run on liquefied gas. But they are not able to provide a high temperature. Therefore, in saunas, conventional stoves with a gas burner are installed.

Since gas is the most flammable fuel, liquid fuels are most often used in continuous heaters: furnace distilled fuel, diesel fuel, kerosene, fuel oil, coal tar, and in winter - only diesel fuel or kerosene that does not solidify in the cold.

Two methods are used in stoves for atomizing and mixing liquid fuel with air: spraying drops on the bottom of the burner and evaporation from a thin layer at the bottom of the burner.

On the rice. 60 the scheme of the furnace according to the first type is presented - with spraying. The burner in such a furnace can be made from an old engine piston by drilling several holes in it for air supply and filling it with stones. The dropper must be installed so that it is possible to control the flow of fuel. The tube that connects the dropper to the fuel tank must have a filter and two valves: at the tank after the filter to stop the fuel supply and at the stove to regulate it. On the rice. 61 the scheme of the furnace according to the second type is given - with evaporation. The principle of its operation is similar to the principle of operation of the previous furnace, with the only difference being that the fuel enters the glass not from above, but from below. In such a furnace, the fuel supply should be more carefully regulated, and the bottom of the glass should be located strictly horizontally.

Rice. 60. Scheme of a stove-heater with fuel spray: 1 - chimney; 2 - stones; 3 - furnace firebox; 4 - dropper; 5 - peephole; 6 - burner cup; 7 - firebox door; 8 - valves; 9 - tube for fuel supply; 10 - overflow tube; 11 - wall of the room; 12 - filter; 13 – fuel tank; 14 - drain tank

Rice. 61. Scheme of a heater-heater with fuel evaporation: 1 - furnace combustion chamber; 2 - burner body; 3, 4 - doors; 5 - hole for air; 6 - mixing ring; 7 - bottom of the hull filled with fuel; 8 - valves; 9 - filter; 10, 11 - pipes for overflow and fuel supply; 12 – fuel tank; 13 – level regulator; 14 - drain tank

Among imported stoves operating on liquid and gaseous fuels, special attention deserve "Vesta" (Germany), which is available in six versions for steam rooms different sizes, and more powerful Finnish heaters.

In Russia, unfortunately, such stoves are not produced, but heating and cooking devices using liquid fuel, for example, models 2403, can be adapted instead. Solid fuel stoves are produced at the Tallinn Machine Building Plant and at some other enterprises. In a small sauna, they can heat the air to a temperature of 130–140 ° C. A converted laundry stove can be used as a stove-heater. To do this, stones must be placed in the water tank, and the firebox must be overlaid with bricks from the outside.

But the simplest among continuous furnaces are home-made furnaces made of sheet steel with single and double walls. Double-walled stoves are more convenient, as the space between them can be used to produce hot water.

Most simple designs such furnaces are presented on rice. 62.

Rice. 62. Heater stoves with a built-in water tank: a - a stove with single walls; b - a heater with a side wall in the form of a water tank; c - a heater with water tanks and an air gap in the wall

The main advantage of metal stoves is that they quickly heat up the room, are safe, and take up little space.

Combined action stove

As a rule, combined action ovens are made of brick, but they can also be made of metal. They work most often on liquid fuel. They can be heated before using the bath or, if necessary, continue heating during washing.

All brick ovens of this type the firebox is separated from the stone chamber by heat-resistant material (cast iron or sheet steel). This allows you to get steam without stopping the furnace.

Most simple options Combined action heaters – without water tank- presented on rice. 63.

Rice. 63. Brick stoves-heaters without a water heater: a - using a metal box; b - using an exhausted boiler; 1 - blower door; 2 - grate; 3 – firebox door; 4 - plate; 5 - valve; 6 - metal box; 7 - stones; 8 - steam door; 9 - refractory bricks; 10 - boiler

But more convenient is a stove-heater with a built-in tank for heating water. To increase or, conversely, reduce the rate of water heating, a sheet of asbestos cardboard is placed between the tank and the stones.

Batch stove

For heating with wood, the best are economical stoves-heaters of periodic action. Their only drawback is that it is possible to use a bath with such a stove only after complete combustion of the fuel, so as not to be poisoned by carbon monoxide.

A compact metal oven without a water tank is shown on rice. 64. The thickness of its walls should be at least 4–5 mm. Such an oven can be easily made from a commercially available laundry stove and a metal barrel.

Rice. 64. Metal stove-heater of periodic action: 1 - body; 2, 3 - doors; 4 - shelf; 5 - grate; 6 - plate; 7 - bricks; 8 - stones; 9 - cover; 10 - steel grating

But still, brick heaters are more popular among furnaces of this type. On the rice. 65 two variants of such a furnace are shown: without a water-heating tank and with a water-heating boiler.

Rice. 65. Brick stoves-heaters of periodic action: a - without a water-heating tank; b - with a hot water boiler

Brick oven masonry

The transverse dimensions of the foundation must exceed the dimensions of the furnace itself by half a brick on each side. A gap filled with sand should separate it from the foundation of the wall, and the depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm.

The foundation for the stove is made, as a rule, from the same material as the foundation of the entire bath.

The surface of the foundation is leveled with cement mortar and covered with a double layer of waterproofing material.

For masonry, ordinary solid bricks are usually used, and for laying a firebox - refractory (when using firewood) or refractory (when using other types of fuel). Before use, ordinary bricks must be held in water for 1-2 minutes.

For laying ordinary bricks, a solution of clay and sand is used in a ratio of 1: 1. First, the clay must be soaked with water and after a day add enough water to it to bring it to the consistency of sour cream with stirring. After straining, sifted sand is added to the clay. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed. A mortar for masonry of refractory or refractory bricks is prepared from clay and fireclay.

The distance between ordinary bricks in the masonry should not exceed 4-5 mm, and between refractory and refractory - 3 mm. Wipe every 4 rows inner surface masonry with a wet cloth. In order for the walls of the furnace to be even, after the second row, guide cords with plumb lines are installed in the corners, fixing them on nails driven into the floor and ceiling. It is not allowed to bind masonry from ordinary brick with masonry from refractory or refractory bricks, since the degree of their expansion under the influence of high temperatures is different.

During the laying process, the installation of metal parts of the furnace takes place. To install the firebox door, you must first attach hooped iron paws to its frame, and wrap it yourself with a cloth or asbestos cord. The jumper above the firebox door is locked into a lock. Other doors and dampers are fastened to the masonry with a wire with a cross section of 2 mm.

When installing the grate and the slab above the firebox, a small gap must be left between them and the masonry and filled with sand.

If your bath will be heated with wood, then you can limit yourself minimum dimensions firebox: width - 25-30 cm, height - 35-40 cm; but if possible, it is recommended to increase the height of the firebox to 50-60 cm. So that coals do not fall out of the furnace with the door open, the bottom of the firebox should be below the frame of the furnace door.

The inside of the chimneys must not be covered with clay, so that when it dries, its pieces do not fall off and fall into the chimney.

The bricks of the upper three rows are laid flat with a dressing. If their vertical seams match, then the rows should be covered with steel sheets.

The chimney is built on the array of the entire furnace. It is laid out, like a stove, in half a brick and coated with cement or lime mortar. The height of the pipe above the roof should be at least 50–60 cm.

The brick pipe should be removed from the wooden parts of the bath by at least 25-40 cm, depending on whether they have fire protection or not, and metal, respectively, by 75–100 cm.

In addition, when installing metal pipe, all wooden parts of the roof and ceiling are covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar, and sheathed with sheets of roofing steel.

The joints of a metal or asbestos-cement pipe with brickwork are reinforced with a waterproof mortar. Outside the pipe must be covered heat-insulating material so that condensation does not form.

It is desirable to install a deflector (a metal cone) on the upper end of the pipe, which will protect it from rain and snow and ensure that gases are sucked in by the wind.

At the end of the work, the oven should be plastered with one of the following solutions, adding one tenth of asbestos to them: gypsum, lime, sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1; clay, sand in a ratio of 1: 2; clay, cement, sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 3.

Before plastering, the surface of the furnace must be properly prepared: clean it of clay, clear the seams to a depth of 7–10 mm, and then, having heated the furnace well, moisten it with water.

A plastered stove can be whitewashed with lime mortar by adding a little clay to it. The part of the pipe located in the attic must be whitewashed so that cracks are clearly visible on it.

backfill

For stone filling, natural cobblestones hardened by the sun and water, as well as stones of volcanic origin (basalt, granite, etc.), are best suited. But you can also use stones from siliceous rocks, which are found on the banks of natural reservoirs.

The main criteria for selecting stones should be the following: a smooth, even surface, appropriate dimensions (at least 10–15 cm in diameter), high density, the ability to withstand high temperatures, retain heat and not crack when in contact with cold water.

Large stones should be laid down, and smaller stones should be placed on top. In order for the bath to heat up faster, cast-iron chocks or steel blanks must be placed vertically between the stones.

Instead of natural stones you can use pieces of broken ceramics, porcelain or burnt bricks.

Fire safety rules

In order for the use of the bath to give you only pleasure, and not be a source of big trouble, during its operation it is necessary to observe the following measures fire safety.

Wooden and other flammable parts of the bath should be insulated or located at a considerable distance from the hot parts of the stove and chimney. As insulators, it is necessary to use materials that are fireproof or have low thermal conductivity.

If a stove with thick walls is laid out on a combustible base, then the distance from the floor to the bottom of the ash pan should be at least 14 cm, and to the bottom of the smoke turns - 21 cm. In the same stove on a fireproof base, the bottom of the ash pan and all smoke turns can be gender.

Frame thin-walled stoves should be separated from the wooden floor with asbestos cardboard 12 mm thick and roofing steel stuffed over it. Metal furnaces are installed on a base consisting of two rows of bricks lying on a double layer of felt impregnated with clay mortar. On the floor near the furnace door, a metal sheet is nailed to protect the floor from coals that have fallen out of the furnace.

Between oven and wooden wall or a partition there must be a gap of 13 cm, and between the nearest chimney and the wall - 25 cm. The gap between the stove and the wall is laid with a brick.

The combustible wall around the furnace door must be plastered or upholstered with roofing steel, under which felt is impregnated with clay mortar. The distance from the furnace door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.5 m.

The distance from the combustible ceiling to the upper floors of the heat-consuming furnace should be 35 cm for furnaces with a mass of more than 750 kg and 45 cm for furnaces with a mass of less than 750 kg. The same distance for a non-heat-intensive stove should be 1 m. The chimney and smoke channels should be at least 13 cm from the rafters, lathing, metal and wooden beams- by 25 cm.

The roof at the points of contact with the chimney is covered with iron or roofing steel.

Cracks in the stove and chimney should be repaired in a timely manner, as well as the smoke channels should be cleaned from soot accumulated in them.

Although metal sauna stoves have been invented for many years, most people still prefer traditional brick ones. Such a choice is due to the fact that it is the “living” material that is able to create the most comfortable level of heat for a person and the optimal amount of steam, as well as give the room a cozy atmosphere.

Peculiarities

The main advantage of brick ovens for baths is a certain technology of vaporization, which is achieved thanks to unique properties bricks. A person in the room breathes easily, feels "soft" warmth and enveloping steam, saturated, but not burning. When the metal is heated, infrared radiation occurs, burning oxygen in the steam room and burning the skin. It is not surprising that brick heaters are preferred by people who take care of their health and choose comfort.

Brick construction comes in a variety of sizes and designs., which means it can fit into any bath that demonstrates the individuality of the owner. As a rule, furnaces are built with a base of 3.5 by 4 bricks (89 by 102 centimeters), or 4 by 5 bricks (102 by 129 centimeters). The height without a pipe can be 168 or 210 centimeters. The most popular is the model with a tank for heating water.

Advantages and disadvantages

When giving preference to brick ovens, it must be remembered that they have both certain advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages are the following:

• attractive appearance and the ability to fit into any bath interior: both made of wood and brick;
• such a furnace will please the owner much longer than an iron one: unlike metal, brick is a material that will not be spoiled by small defects;
• no need to carry out additional finishing work;
• the emerging steam has a beneficial effect on human health;
• the heated brick will not begin to release hazardous chemicals into the air;

• a brick oven better maintains a high temperature throughout the bath;
• for kindling, fuel is used, which is sold at any construction market, as well as the simplest raw materials, which are not even necessary to buy: sticks, branches, newspapers, dry moss and others;
• in a room with a periodic heater, you can steam for 2-3 days, and it will not cool down;
• if, after bathing procedures, you simply do not close the door to the steam room, then the oven will dry the bath itself;
• the chimney does not require monthly cleaning, unlike a metal firebox.

However, there are also some disadvantages:

• the furnace structure itself is quite large, you will either need to initially build a large bath, or you will have to sacrifice some square meters;
• if mistakes are made during the assembly process, the oven will not hold the temperature well, and the room will cool down quickly;
• brick is a rather expensive material;
• the services of a professional stove-maker are also very expensive;

• due to the large weight of the stove, a solid foundation will be required, the depth of which should be below the freezing point of the soil, and the foundation for the stove should not be tied to the foundation for the very structure of the bath house;
• building a heater is a long-term and labor-intensive task;
• to completely melt a bath with a brick oven, it will take a long time, up to 6 hours.

Kinds

There are 4 main variations of sauna stoves:

• "in white";
• "in black";
• "in gray";
• with a plate.

Black-fired stoves do not have a chimney, and have been used in villages across the country for decades. All the fumes and smoke go through the steam room itself - naturally through cracks and gaps in the roof. Of course, this is how the best steam and aroma arise in them, and it becomes very pleasant to wash, but at the same time you have to wait until all the firewood burns out. When choosing furnaces "in a black way" it is recommended to process internal walls baths with a special solution that can prevent the occurrence of soot residues. Black baths have a very high efficiency, and therefore, when using them, you can save on fuel.

Next in complexity are furnaces that are heated "in a gray way". They have a chimney, and therefore the bath warms up much faster. However, you still have to wait until all the fuel has burned out, as soot is deposited on the stones. The walls do not get dirty with soot, but when liquid is applied to the stones, a small amount of soot microparticles appears along with the steam from the furnace. This design can be direct-flow and with channels. In the first case, the stones located above the firebox are on fire, and the gases are released into the air through a pipe, and in the second - through two valves.

Furnaces "in white" warm up the room for up to 12 hours, but do not pollute the stones, therefore they are considered the most environmentally friendly. The process is as follows: the overlapping metal plate is heated from the fuel, and from it the stones, which will store heat for several hours. This method of heating appears to be the most expensive - a large amount of firewood and other materials is consumed. Previously, the box in which the stones were put was made of ordinary black iron, but now it is made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Traditionally, white-baths have two separate spaces: a dressing room and a steam room itself. To warm both rooms, one side of the stove goes into the dressing room.

In the fourth case - with a stove - stones and a water tank, the placement of which can be changed, are heated by two cast-iron stoves. One of them is located above the firebox, and the second - above the chimney. On three sides, the slabs must be protected by a brick screen, which will provide a high temperature of the water. Such furnaces are usually built independently.

According to the type of fuel used, stoves are distinguished:

• wood;
• melted with coal;
• natural gas;
• diesel fuel;
• wood chip briquettes;
• electricity.

According to the type of construction, they are divided into furnaces:

• with an open heater (typical for a Finnish sauna);
• with a closed heater;
• combined.

The heater in the first case is called flowing, and the stove itself is called periodic. In the second case, the heater is direct-flow, and the stove is continuous.

Batch stoves are usually chosen by large families when a lot of people go to wash, but the duration of the steaming process is short. They have thick walls that keep heat for a long time and provide the necessary period of functioning of the bath. The smoke passes through the stones before entering the chimney. The volume of stone filling in such a heater is much larger than in permanent heaters.

Bath stoves of constant action have a minimum wall thickness and the volume of stones located in an insulated metal box above the firebox. Their main advantage is the ability to use the steam room during the melting process. Stoves with a closed heater are also safer. Heating is carried out inside the body through the wall, which is common for the heater and the firebox. Stones store heat much longer, and the air in the steam room at the same time has a stable optimal temperature. It will take about 4-5 hours to warm up the air in such a bath.

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a variety as a stone stove-fireplace for a bath. This design has an attractive design, but has a low efficiency. If you install a fire-resistant glass valve, you can protect yourself from flames and enjoy relaxation in a warm room. That is why fireplaces are often installed in the "waiting rooms". Modern technologies make it possible to design mini-heaters. This design quickly warms the bath, but even after the fuel has completely burned out, the heating of the room remains. Its length and width are usually 2 bricks.

Design and style

Exist various ways decorating brick ovens.

• With the help of plaster, you can make relief patterns, or simply create a neat, smooth surface. Paint or decorative plaster is applied over the plaster.
• Painting is the easiest option. In this case, it will only be necessary to paint the stove with 1-2 layers of very resistant paint.
• If you need some creative and effective solution, then you should turn to facing the furnace portal with tiles or stone in a sequential or chaotic manner. In the event that the fireplace is planned to be closed, glass cladding is selected, and the brick itself will serve as decoration. In general, the stove can be lined with natural stone, majolica, unglazed terracotta, clinker tiles and porcelain stoneware.

When thinking about the color for the stove, it is recommended to be based on interior design. For example, the loft style implies artificially aged hand-moulded bricks. For classic interior in calm, light colors, as a rule, light yellow brick is used. Thanks to modern materials, it is possible to paint the stove in any light.

If there is a desire to arrange a log bath in Russian rustic style, then the oven is best assembled with your own hands. Usually it is tiled or simply plastered and painted in White color. It is also necessary to take care of the substrate, which can be glass-magnesite sheets or drywall.

Masonry schemes

If it has not happened before to build a heater, then it is recommended not to take it personally for drawing up a drawing, but to find a ready-made order and use it. Currently, various masonry schemes are used, the most complex of which are chosen by professionals, and the simple ones by amateurs. In both cases, the result is satisfactory, and the oven works efficiently. In addition to traditional masonry methods, the ordering of Kuznetsov's bell-type bath stoves is also distinguished. This design takes up much less space.

Initially, the oven is laid out dry in order to draw an ordering plan. It must be remembered that standard schemes are not suitable for all rooms, therefore, for each bath, they must be created individually, making the necessary changes to existing ones. Once you have a clear understanding of how each row is done, it's time to start the main assembly.

Ordering always begins with the foundation of the furnace, the so-called zero row. At this level, the laying is continuous, but a half-window is usually left on the side in order to create additional traction and clean the chimney shaft. At the next level, ligation is carried out - this means that the row is shifted by 30-50% to make the structure stable. If you need halves or quarters of a brick, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond disc. It must be remembered that such elements cannot be located in chimneys, the shafts of which are always assembled from solid bricks, but only inside the structure.

At the third level, a damper usually appears, and the installation of the ash pan door begins. The fourth row indicates the appearance of a soot sampling door. At the sixth stage, as a rule, the shaft is divided into two parts using a jumper, one of which will become the slab shaft. On the twelfth row, one of the mines will be laid, and one main one will remain. Usually, at the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth stage, the masonry of the main structure ends, and then the chimney is laid.

Drawings and projects

The design of a sauna heater differs from traditional designs: it has a special space for heating stones, which allows you to heat the steam room with high speed. There are two main designs of such a stove: grate and non-grate.

In a grate stove, firewood is placed on a small grate or grate. This device also serves as the bottom of the furnace, and primary air is supplied through it for ignition. Through the holes in the grate, the ash goes down, thus making room for a new portion of fuel. The best material for this element of furnace fittings is cast iron, as it is more stable than steel. Such furnaces have high efficiency, high combustion intensity, and are very easy to maintain.

There are one-piece grates that cannot be disassembled, and typesetting, consisting of several parts. In the first case, when buying a part, it is necessary to focus on the available area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace, and in the second - an element required size be able to assemble it yourself. Steel grates are produced by chain or pipe. Steel are tiled, basket, beam and movable.

The grate-less furnace is also called hearth. Firewood is placed on a sub-deaf floor, on which it is also possible to cook and bake, and air is supplied through the firebox door. In such furnaces, “upper combustion of the fuel” occurs, when the front propagates from upper layers bookmarks to the bottom as they burn, which is considered more in an ecological way. For such stoves, only wood materials are used: firewood and briquettes.

Some craftsmen assemble stoves "by eye", since they believe that both the assembly of a brick oven and the iron lining are so simple that preliminary calculations are not needed for them. However, it is better to make preliminary calculations. Both the thermal regime and the amount of steam in the room depend on the correct design. Otherwise, it may happen that the air heats up very quickly, and the stones remain cold.

The parameters are calculated based on the dimensions of the room: length, height and width. The power of the furnace is also calculated depending on the volume of the steam room: for each cubic meter 1 kilowatt of energy is required.

How to do it yourself?

To independently fold a standard oven, the first step is to choose the right brick. The material must be very strong, capable of withstanding high temperatures and possessing refractory properties. Best Option It is considered a pale yellow brick based on refractory fireclay clay. It should be borne in mind that it is an expensive material, therefore, during construction homemade oven it is complemented with solid red brick. For example, fireclay bricks are used for fragments that are subjected to the most severe heating, and to enclose external walls, smoke circulations and decorative elements- red hollow brand M with a number from 75 to 150.

When choosing a brick, you should follow a few simple rules:

• When struck with a pick or hammer on quality brick a loud and clear sound will be heard;
• The brick must meet the standard parameters: 250 by 120 by 65 millimeters;
• A quality material has no pronounced damage and defects, with the exception of filiform cracks and grooves;
• If a brick has a "micaceous" film, this indicates a marriage.

To build a brick oven, you will need knowledge of block laying and compliance with a single order. First of all, a waterproofing layer is installed in the base of reinforced concrete in order to cool the foundation. At the same stage, an under-furnace for storing inventory is formed. Then the preparation of clay and sand begins to connect the elements, because cement is not suitable in this situation. The clay is thoroughly cleaned of stones and impurities beforehand and soaked for several days. It is recommended to take samples mined at a depth of 150 centimeters below the surface of the earth. Quarry or river sand is carefully sieved for pebbles or pieces of pebbles. After that, the clay must be stirred, diluted with clean water without a musty smell and combined with sand prepared in the same way.

When using clay with a high fat content, it is recommended to dilute it with sand in proportions of 1: 2. To check whether the mixture is correct, you must use a wooden stick. It is dipped into the solution, and if the resulting layer has a thickness of 2 millimeters, then you can get to work. Experts also recommend giving preference to the clay underlying the selected brick, that is, either red or fireclay.

At the next stage, it will be necessary to lay out brick blocks. As a rule, this will require ordering, a square, pliers, a broom with a scoop and an emery wheel. Each brick is pre-immersed in water to ensure that all air bubbles are released from the pores and that dehydration of the mortar is prevented. Fireclay bricks are not recommended to be immersed in liquid for a long time, a few seconds are enough to remove dust. Masonry starts from the corner. The first row is laid on a dry foundation, without applying a sand-clay mixture.

At some point, a water tank is also installed., plates, and, if necessary, a grate, as well as fixing the doors. Regardless of the method of laying, the key parts remain the same: a refractory brick firebox, a chimney, a water tank and an ash pan consisting of a cast-iron stove, a firebox and an understove. Drying of the sauna stove takes place within 4-5 days with open windows in the room. After this period, you can begin to heat it with small chips once a day, for a maximum of 10-15 minutes. While the condensate continues to rise to the surface, the furnace is not yet ready for full operation. If desired, after that, you can also carry out finishing, for example, tiling with tiles.

When constructing a stone oven, the following rules must be taken into account:

• leave at least 50 centimeters between the stove cover and flammable structures;
• more than 1 decimeter should remain between the brick chimney and the wooden parts of the bath;
• there will be a gap between the smoke channel and the roof, which must be covered metal plate, for example, from galvanized steel;
• the floor in front of the base of the stove is also covered with a metal plate about 10 millimeters thick, it will prevent sparks and coal from getting on a flammable surface;
• the weight of the furnace together with the pipe, but without the foundation, should not exceed 750 kilograms;
• before laying, all bricks are carefully sorted, products of the same thickness are selected to get even seams - the best samples are for smoke channels and fireboxes;
• the stove is recommended to be built near the wall, which is opposite to the shelves in the steam room.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Decorative spectacular options finishing beautiful and stylish ovens.

• A massive stove-heater in the entire wall will become bright accent steam room. It can be decorated with tile inserts, finished with stone and original brickwork. The rest of the interior details, including basins with ladles, are made of light wood. Brooms are an organic accessory.

• If you want to decorate a high-tech style bath, you need to use a concise small heater, possibly a mini one, and shiny ones. metal sheets in the interior. The latter can also act as protection for wooden walls.

I must say that although I am a big fan of the sauna, the baths in which the stoves are built, I really like the way described below. Many people love them more, and tolerate them more easily than a sauna (yes, take my wife, for example). Using the method described in the article, a stove was built in the bath and my grandfather - and to be honest, rest after a steam room in such a bath turns out better and you feel better after it. It's probably a matter of tradition anyway.

Types of stones.

Brick bath stoves (otherwise called heaters) are of 2 types: periodic and continuous. Traditional, real Russian baths were heated exclusively with stoves periodical action. Previously, in ancient times, they did not have pipes, and they were heated in a black way - that is, the smoke went along the ceiling of the bath. They began to make stoves with chimneys only from the beginning of the 18th century, and even then they began to heat baths on white, that is, as we do now.

Furnaces Periodic action cannot be heated while you are steaming or washing in a bathhouse, because then smoke will also penetrate into the bathhouse along with the steam from the stove. These stoves are heated for three, five or even more hours before going to the bath. Stones heated by an open fire can heat up to 900 ° C, and the steam from such a stove is given off the way connoisseurs of the steam room love - light, non-burning, dry and easily portable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metal containers, have appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that they can also be heated during bathing procedures, and the disadvantage is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire do not warm up above 600 ° C. The steam in such heaters turns out to be “raw”, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 900 degrees, and brickwork three to four tons, heated to a high temperature, represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. True, there are no special rules for heaters.

Moreover, some bans and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with chambers of stone filling for two tons, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater.

Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other household stoves. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and, if the stove is large, “unoccupied” space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is large in heaters, to get enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But on sale it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of fireclay (fireclay "groats"), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The firebox is arranged so that its height from the grate blows up to the laying of the cobblestone is 8-9 rows of masonry (56-63 cm). It is impossible to reduce this distance by bringing the cobblestone closer to the fire for more intense heating of the stones. In this case, the result will be the opposite.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the flame temperature will drop on them, and the unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Laying arches with your own hands.

One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to make brick arches (or a vault with holes), on which you can put rail sections. This will create a solid foundation for the stone backfill.

Before laying an arch or vault, notches are made on the prepared formwork on the brick beds for better adhesion. Then the brick is rubbed or washed by briefly immersing it in water. It must be remembered that fireclay bricks should not be heavily wetted.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for "shooting". When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

After an hour and a half, the formwork must be dismantled, and 3-4 bricks should be placed on the arch. As a result, the arch will receive a prestress in order to withstand the loads from the stone backfill in the future. The mortar in the seams between the bricks of such an arch will be dense and durable, and it will last a long time.

If the folded arch is left on the formwork for a week or longer, due to large shrinkage masonry mortar the solidity of the masonry will be broken (the clay mortar has a volumetric shrinkage of up to 5%.) Slits invisible to the eye are formed between the bricks of the arch. The longer the arch remains on the formwork, the weaker it will be.

Stone chamber.

The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater to replace cobblestones or grates, as well as for other repairs.

The distance from the rails to the window is made no more than 50 cm (seven rows of masonry). This is due to the fact that the top of the cobblestones should always be at or below the shelf in the steam room. The lower the steam source, the more efficiently it will be used. In addition to the door in the window, it is necessary to install an internal damper. Thanks to her, the wall of the steam room, opposite the window, will heat up less, and heat will be better preserved in the chamber. For more intense heating of the backfill, the walls of the chamber can be lined with sheets of fire-resistant steel. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vault (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant stones. The blocking of the chamber of stone filling is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a smoke collector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to enter the steam room.

Between the arch and the rows of the main ceiling of the furnace, it is necessary to leave a sedimentary gap in one row of masonry. The gap is also used as a chimney to the chimney, allowing it to be installed on any corner of the furnace.

Orders and sections of the furnace:

1 - smoke damper; 2 - stripes and corners; 3 - railway rails R-70 for laying cobblestone on them; 4 - steel tube 050 mm for additional steam or water heating; 5 - furnace door; 6 - blower door; 7 - grate fireboxes; 8 - cobblestone of volcanic origin; 9 - temperature gaps; 10 - through niche channels for storing poker, tongs and others small items; 11 - damper of the steam outlet window; 12 - steam outlet door; 13 - ceiling cutting.

Ceiling section.

The most dangerous place in the steam room in terms of fire is the ceiling around the chimney. So that this place does not heat up unnecessarily, the pipe at the point of passage through the ceiling is placed with thicker walls - with a ceiling cut. For heaters, the wall thickness of the pipe here is 38 cm or 25 cm with additional thermal insulation.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cut are 76 × 76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is arranged - 86 × 86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled basalt wool or other non-combustible material.

An ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 ° C, so it is better to lay the ceiling cutting from fireclay bricks. For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Materials needed to build a stove

brick red	M200	1000 pcs.
fireclay brick	Sh-8	450 pcs.
Chamotte wedge-shaped brick	Sh-55	80 pcs.
Smoke damper	260×260 mm	1 PC.
Steel corner	65x65x5 mm	14 m
Steel strip	50×5 mm	2.5 m
Heat-resistant steel tube	050 mm	1.5m
Railway rail	R-70	2.5 m
Furnace door	280x 250 mm	1 PC.
Blower door	210×250 mm	1 PC.
Grid grates	200×300 mm	6 pcs.
Steam damper	Produce locally	1 PC.
steam outlet door	Produce locally	1 PC.
Chamotte clay		170 kg
fireclay		170 kg
Clay, mountain sand	On demand
Cobblestone of volcanic origin		1t

STOVES FOR THE BATH WITH YOUR HANDS - OPTIONS FROM READERS

We make a stove for a bath from a potbelly stove with our own hands

A bath for a summer resident is not a luxury, but a prime necessity. And if so, she needs a simple, economical and efficient firebox.

Such a " barrel stove» for the bath I made from two actually metal barrels. As a stove, you need to take a barrel with a capacity of 200 liters, and a second, smaller barrel can be welded to the first and used to heat water. I welded such a barrel with a capacity of 90-100 liters to the stove. But at the same time, he bent one of its walls so that the future water tank would fit well against the wall of the stove.

And in front of the furnace, he cut a hole for a pipe, which he filled with stones to accumulate heat. Cut the pipe to the width of the oven. At one end, he drowned it out and inserted it into the hole in the furnace, and then scalded it along the end. To prevent stones from falling out of the oven, I made a special grate (see fig.).

Then I cut a square hole for the firebox, made a door and a blower. Each summer resident must install the stove in such a way that it is convenient to maintain it and “give it to the park”.

I think that my stove meets such requirements as simplicity, cheapness and reliability. It is especially pleasing that you can go to wash in such a bathhouse literally half an hour after kindling.

Manufacturing

Taking into account the dimensions of the old furnace and the room, I prepared a drawing new design(see fig.). Partially dismantled the old furnace, leaving only a firebox with an afterburner pipe. The cracks in the masonry were covered with clay.

From sheet steel 10 mm thick, according to the drawing, I welded a rectangular box for the heater and a water tank. In the heater, I cut out the necessary openings for the doors on the side of the steam room (photo 1) and washing (photo 2). as well as holes for the afterburner pipe. In the latter, from the side of the steam room, I cut out a rectangular opening and closed it with a door (see photo 1 p. 1).

I installed the finished heater on the firebox, strung it on a pipe, welded the joints from above and below. Installed a chimney on the stove.

I fixed a water tank on the firebox (photo 3). The walls of the washing department adjacent to the stove were sewn up with tin for fire safety purposes.

For better heat supply to the steam room under the doors of the heater, I drilled nine holes d 20 mm (photo 4). I painted the body of the heater and the tank with heat-resistant silver, and whitened the stove.

Tests

When he flooded the stove, the bath measuring 2.3 × 3.3 × 2 m warmed up to readiness in 1.5-2 hours. A 100-liter water tank is heated in the same time to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. To prolong bathing procedures, thanks to a pipe with an afterburner, you can throw firewood at 3 logs per hour.

Furnace Advantages

Three positions for space heating:

A - the doors of the heater in the steam room and in the sink are open - simultaneous heating of two rooms.

The B-door of the heater in the steam room is closed, and in the sink it is open - more heat in the washing compartment. On the contrary, accelerated heating of the steam room.

B - All doors are closed - heat accumulation mode in the heater.

Two firing modes:

A - with a fully open blower door - the fastest heating of the bath.

B-with the door closed - maintaining heat in the bath, for example, in the summer.

The wide window of the heater in the steam section allows you to safely pour water onto hot stones.

Which oven is best?

The main thing in the bath is the stove-heater. Previously, it was built of brick. Now you can just buy a finished metal structure. The main thing is to choose the right one among the many options.

All stoves-heaters are divided into three types according to the type of energy carrier used: wood, electric and gas.

Wood

The minimum formation of smoke and the absence of burning, which means that the procedure for taking a bath will be not only useful, but also safe for health.

All models use special elements that eliminate the risk of burns.

Variety of shapes and colors.

Cheaper electric and gas stoves.

Soot accumulates on the stones and must be cleaned regularly.

Electrical

No need for a chimney.

Eco-friendly. Any contamination is excluded.

They have a temperature control and regulation system.

– High energy consumption of 1 kW/1 sq. m.

Both rooms heat up very quickly.

Able to heat water well. A scheme for passing the chimney through a special tank is used.

- The need for a gas pipeline on the site.