Do-it-yourself stoves for a wood-burning brick house. Brick ovens for wood-fired cottages: the best orders and a step-by-step construction guide

The stove - one of the oldest heating systems in a country house - still has not lost its relevance. The furnace design has high productivity and is not demanding on the raw materials used. The main disadvantages of the stove are the inability to control the heating temperature and the difficulty in maintaining a constant fire.

When carrying out construction work, it is important that the brickwork is perfect the first time, otherwise the structure will have to be disassembled. An improperly designed or assembled stove will become a source of smoke in the room.

Types of furnaces

In the past, houses were built “from the stove”, that is, it was installed first, and then walls and ceilings were erected. These days, it is not necessary to do this, but it is desirable, especially when it is planned to position the stove in such a way that it heats several rooms at once.

The most common types of ovens are Russian, Swedish and Dutch. At the same time, the Russian one must be erected before the construction of the house begins, besides, it requires a separate foundation. In general, any kiln with 500 or more bricks needs a foundation that is separate from the base of the building. Easier with Dutch and Swedish ovens. They are compact, can be mounted in an already built building and do not need an additional foundation.

There is another wood-burning stove - bell-type. Its advantage is the efficiency, which reaches 70% compared to 50% for other types of furnaces. The disadvantage of such a furnace is a complex device, which is why it is almost impossible to assemble it with your own hands. Also, the stove cannot be equipped with a hob - the design is intended exclusively for space heating.

The structure of the furnaces

Dutch is a classic wood-burning channel stove. Its principle of operation is based on the circulation of hot air along the passages laid in the body of the furnace.

The design of the furnace is quite simple, its masonry can be adapted to the configuration of any type of premises.

But it will not work to mount a tank for heating water: this will lead to a decrease in efficiency due to the accumulation of soot in the channels. In addition, even without a tank, the efficiency of the furnace barely reaches 40%.

In turn, the "Swede" has an efficiency of 60%. It is considered the most advanced heating and cooking oven, where the oven acts as an air chamber. In the chamber part, flue gases burn out, and they go into the convector heated to 800°C. The convector itself is narrow, but has a large height, so that the heating of the house occurs evenly.

The Swede can be equipped with a hot water heat exchanger. The storage tank is placed on the ceiling or in the drying niche. As a result, the efficiency does not decrease: there is no energy feedback between the oven and the convector on the one hand and the furnace part on the other.

Instrument preparation

In order to perform bricklaying, you will need the following tools:

• rectangular and acute-angled sledgehammer;
• tamper made of metal or wood;
• stitching for concave and convex seams;
• combined trowel;
• spatula for working with mortar and trowel;
• measuring devices: a rule made of wood or aluminum, a plumb line, a level, a tape measure, a folding ruler, a square.

In addition, guide racks are needed, which will be mounted in the house for the duration of the work. This is required in order for the brickwork to be even. It is impossible to correct skewed corners, so it is better to take care of their correctness in advance. Racks are installed in a strictly vertical position, horizontal bars are attached to them or, even better, wooden formwork.

You can carry bricks with your own hands, but it is better to get a special frame for the tray in advance. The same applies to the solution: when transporting it, it is better to load it into a stretcher.

Selection of bricks and heating elements

For the construction of passages and heated elements of the furnace, refractory bricks are used. Ordinary brick is used for arranging parts that are not exposed to high temperatures. The dimensions of a brick of any type are 250 mm in length, 120 in width and 65 in height. If necessary, brick blocks are broken.

So, a three-quarter brick is distinguished, the length of which is 3/4 of the whole, and a half brick, with a length cut in half. Very small pieces of brick, equal to 1/4 of the whole, are called quarter. The cutting of the material is carried out with the help of a sharp steel knife and a stucco - cutting a metal pipe. For the construction of the furnace, metal elements will also be needed, including:

• a door for a furnace, a door for a blower and a door for cleaning passages;
• view valve;
• grate.

All of the listed details must be comparable to the dimensions of the brick blocks. The waterproofing of the furnace is carried out using roofing material. The length of the sheets of this material depends on what dimensions the structure will have. This factor also determines the number of bricks. Usually, the amount of building materials needed is indicated in the project documentation or calculated on an individual basis. Knowing the number of rows, the dimensions of the brick and the dimensions of the furnace, this is done simply.

Solution preparation

To prepare the solution, you need to stock up on a suitable container, as well as a sieve with 3x3 mm cells. To work with the mixture, you will need a shovel, a drill mixer and a small plank. The composition of the solution will include water, sand and clay. Harvested water must be clean, without the smell of mold and with a minimum amount of mineral additives.

If the tap water in your area is contaminated, try to bring it in advance in the right amount. Its volume depends on the number of bricks that the masonry will contain: for example, for every hundred there are from 15 to 20 liters of liquid. The solution requires fine-grained sand. It is sifted through a sieve to remove pieces of rubble and gravel. In addition, it is required to purchase high quality clay: the strength of the solution depends on it.

The preparation of the mixture begins with the fact that water and clay are mixed in such proportions that the mass is not too liquid, but not too thick, homogeneous mass.

After it acquires plasticity, screened sand is added in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water. You can check the readiness of the solution by lowering a board into it: the thickness of the mixture adhering to it should be at least 2 cm. When the desired result is achieved, stop adding sand.

Row laying progress

The construction of the furnace begins with the installation of guide racks. Formwork is attached to them - a wooden box without a bottom. It is needed in order for the masonry to be even. The formwork is designed for several rows: when they are completed, it is lifted up. Also, with its help, vaults and arches are created, however, for this, semicircular formwork is used, and not in the form of a box. When the masonry is above the chest, you will have to work on platforms.

When everything is ready, it is necessary to choose a method of ordering for laying heating furnaces and construction technology. Two options for installing blocks are popular - bonder and spoon. They got their name depending on which part of the brick looks out. There is another way - bed, when the bricks are installed on a spoon or poke, but it is unreliable. To avoid problems, it is recommended to monitor the thickness of the seam: it must be at least 5 mm.

Installation steps

Let us consider in more detail the stages of laying a stove in a house using the example of a Swede. The first layer of brick is the most important, it is laid strictly in compliance with the level. In the place where the ash chamber is located, the brick is not laid. A blower will be located between the chamber and the front side of the furnace, the blocks behind it are cut off at an angle to facilitate the removal of ash. A three-quarter brick is placed in front of the blower.

The second and third rows are laid after the blower is fixed. Otherwise, they are similar to the first. It is important that the height of the third row matches the height of the blower door. In the fourth row, a door is installed for cleaning the moves with your own hands, and the moves themselves are laid out directly behind it. A row of bricks on top covers the blower door.

With each successive row, the opening of the ash pan is narrowed. A grate is installed on the fifth row of bricks. On top of the sixth row above the blower, a combustion chamber door is mounted. It is necessary that its height coincides with the height of the ninth row.

The first ten rows are made of refractory bricks, the next superstructure is made of ordinary building material. A hob is placed on top of the bricks of the tenth row. In the next rows, the passages for the movement of heated air smoothly turn into a smoke outlet. A more detailed furnace ordering scheme is determined by the configuration and purpose of the structure.

They build in country houses heating or heating and cooking brick mini ovens These facilities allow you to heat the house in the off-season and in the winter season.

A stove designed exclusively for heating is erected if there is gas and electricity in the summer cottage all year round. If there is nothing to cook food on, they build ovens with a hob.

Schemes of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space which is especially important for small spaces. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height stoves depends on the height of the building and the model chosen. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel pipe.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

In small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking, they build niche for stove.

In another niche located above the firebox, you can build oven, hot water container. Niche space is often used for drying things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a size bases 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) And 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area of from 25 to 40 square meters. Ceramic full-bodied (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). This oven has the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• hole for cleaning smoke channels;
• hole for building a chimney;
• a niche with a hob;
• niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

metal heater elements buy in a hardware store. To the list factory parts included:

• furnace door size 20 x 20 cm(solid cast iron or with refractory glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door measuring 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and refractory glass. There is a possibility of regulation of draft.

• blower door ( 14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke channels ( 20 x 14 cm);
• grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
• hob size 20 x 35 cm(with or without hole);
• 2 valves;
• steel angle profile length 50 cm(fastened between the furnace sheet and the furnace wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace sheet put asbestos cardboard of the same size. For furnace work you will need:

• 222 units full-bodied red brick;
• finished masonry mix for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken on the ground in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. Base This model has the shape of a rectangle with a size 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

The compact dimensions allow the heater to be built in the corner or in the center of the room. If the cottage has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into wall openings (interroom partitions).

Main elements this model:

• firebox;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• chimney outlet.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the furnace portal. Furnace build on a solid foundation buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Important! The oven is laid out from ceramic and fireclay bricks. A firebox is laid out of fireclay bricks, and the lower and upper parts of the heater are made of ceramic bricks. The laying is done on sand-clay and fireclay-clay solutions.

Making a small stove for a summer residence with your own hands

In this example, we will consider in detail the preparatory and main work on the construction of a heating compact mini-oven in the country. Important points works are:

• choice of finished project;
• choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
• acquisition materials;
• purchase of metal details and accessories;
• kiln preparation tool, purchase or rental of power tools (grinders, vibrators);
• construction foundation;
• construction stoves.

You will also be interested in:

Selecting a finished project

Main requirement to the heater - the ability to give off heat for several hours after heating. Of considerable importance is the rapid warming up of the house with economical fuel combustion. Choice also influence:

• weather region during the winter months and off-season;
• area country house and the number of heated rooms;
• price materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick oven with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

The choice of model is influenced owner's tastes. A well-built heating stove of this design can not only heat, but also decorate a country house.

materials

The choice of quality materials allows you to build a reliable furnace. For work need:

• ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
• fireclay bricks ( 130 units);
• factory (ready) mixtures for furnace works (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing a fireclay brick for a firebox, pay attention to the marking. bricks with letter "U" Made from recycled, recycled fireclay. They have lower strength values ​​compared to bricks with letter "SH".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick. The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks, black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for material in another store.

Mixes are bred water according to package instructions. They do not need to add salt, other ingredients.

Advice. Masonry paste of normal consistency, typed on a spatula, does not fall and does not flow when the tool is tilted 45-55 degrees.

The metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

• furnace door size 30 x 20 cm;
• blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
• grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
• roofing material ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
• sheet steel size 50 x 70 cm;
• asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
• steel corner (rolled) length 50 cm;
• 2 oven valves size 13 x 13 cm.

To fix the doors in the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long self-tapping screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on the specific conditions of construction. Minimum thickness of the base for this model of a small furnace - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it covered the freezing zone, a little rose above the floor or was equal to it. For construction, concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, gravel, waterproofing roll material are used.

For a compact small oven, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is suitable. Installation and pouring in progress in the following order:

• A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
• The bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it is a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
• A pillow of loose stone is leveled and rammed.
• The pit is lined with roofing felt, roofing material, the docking points are coated with mastic made from bitumen, tar.
• Installed in a hole formwork to the desired height, a steel reinforcement grate is installed inside it.
• The pit is poured with concrete, a vibrodrill is used to compact and release air bubbles.
• After complete setting and drying of the cement, put on the base two waterproof layers from ruberoid.
• Two layers of oven bricks are placed on top of the roofing material (on mortar).

The construction of the brick oven itself

Before starting work, masonry mortars are kneaded. Brickwork is led to strictly horizontal surfaces. This parameter is checked at the foundation construction stage. Below is a description of the serial laying of a heating mini-oven.

1 row. According to the scheme, a brick is laid, forming a blower. The lower frame of the blower door is fixed to the blower portal.

2-3 rows. Laying according to the scheme.

4 row. Fixing the blower door in the masonry, masonry according to the scheme.

5 row. Furnace chamber layout. Installation of grate. Installation of the furnace door in the portal (laying fasteners in the seams).

6-9 rows. Laying the combustion chamber according to the scheme. Fastening the door holders into the seams.

10-12 rows. The lining of the combustion chamber.

13-15 rows. Masonry of the vault of the firebox, formation of the smoke channel of the furnace.

16-17 row. Masonry according to the scheme, embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Sealing the door fasteners into the seams.

18-24 rows. Formation of smoke channels of the furnace.

25-26 row. Embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Channel laying.

28 row. Installation of the bottom valve, laying channels.

29-31 rows. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the furnace is arranged, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Solid masonry, closing the vaults of channels, forming a chimney. Installing the top flap.

33-34 rows. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

35 row. Construction of the first layer of masonry chimney.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame of wooden beams and a plumb line when building oven walls, which leads to deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process it was discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After completion of work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time, the furnace walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrect sealing of the door fasteners can lead to its displacement. To avoid skewed door, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully embedded in the seams. If the displacement is detected during the construction process, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are closed again.

Useful video

A video in which the three-dimensional model shows the phased construction of a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted with its own color.

Average rating: 2.14 out of 5 .
Rated: 7 readers.

In winter, the house needs heating. Although current technologies offer different options for creating comfort and coziness, maintaining a stable temperature, the classic type is in considerable demand not only for country houses, but also for permanent housing. A brick oven for summer cottages and dwellings can not only emphasize the originality of style, but also be a functional element of decor.

Such a stove has several sides for evaluation, and it can heat, and it looks beautiful

Options for the home

• cooking systems;
• heating structures.

You can also find multifunctional options that combine a classic fireplace, a water circuit and additional fans to increase traction and better warm rooms. The cooking type is used if it is necessary to make a brick oven for summer cottages. Masters combine it with a tank for heating water. It will not work to talk about full heating of the house, but you can cook dinner on such a stove.

In this video you will learn how cooking ovens work:

As standard, it is combined with gas or electric heating. The design consists of several elements. These include:

• hob (occupies most of the structure);
• water heating tank;
• small oven.

The traction power depends on the depth of the device and the parameters of the case. The material from which the lining is made depends on the heat transfer and the ability to heat the room. A standard-sized stove can keep the temperature in a small room, often a kitchen. It is there that a functional design for cooking is installed.

The heating and cooking type is multifunctional due to the combination of the hob, oven, fireplace. In most cases, a shelf for drying things and other elements that contribute to the maximum use of the stove are also installed here. Dimensions and functionality depend on the parameters of the room in which the structure will be installed.

Such a design consists of at least 3 elements

The heating furnace is used for space heating. It consists of a large chamber, an ash pan, which is located under it, a chimney. The design resembles a stove with a fireplace and performs not only a decorative function, but also a practical heating of the room.

Types by type of construction

Depending on what elements are included in the process of creating a stove, experts distinguish several types. Each of them has its own functionality and capabilities. Brick stove may be:

• Russian;
• Dutch;
• Swedish.

The first option is considered a classic, because it combines practicality and functionality in terms of heating the room, the possibility of cooking, there is a shelf for lying and a place for drying things. If the house is used by residents all year round, then the Russian stove option would be ideal in terms of application. As for the appearance, thanks to the original ceramic combinations, you can make a real masterpiece out of an ordinary old stove.

This type is not suitable for a summer cottage, because due to the large dimensions, the stove will need a lot of firewood, respectively, enough heat will be released to heat the room. For cooking, a small cooking option is enough.

In addition, if the stove is put into operation, then it must be actively used, otherwise it can absorb moisture from the air, which will worsen the combustion process and heat generation. In appearance, this is a huge structure, it will be difficult to find a place for it in a small country house.

dutch oven It is considered a good option for heating several rooms at once. It does not take up much space, but at the same time it generates enough heat for a comfortable stay in the house in the winter. Fuel consumption is low here, and the level of efficiency is high. The disadvantages of the furnace include the requirements for the type of fuel and the quality of the material from which the lining for the structure will be made.

The stove must be heated for a long time, if it is cold outside, so that it warms up well, it begins to give off heat to other rooms. It also requires regular use, otherwise the soot in the smoke channel begins to mold inside the structure.

The Dutch oven is a practical option, as it covers several rooms at once

swedish oven considered the most popular and popular, it was developed for a cold harsh climate, so the main goal - fast heating of the room - is achieved quickly. The external parameters are compact, but this does not affect the high heat output and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

It heats up quickly due to the design features. The back side with a fireplace almost always opens into the living room or bedroom, and you can cook food on the hob. For giving, as well as for everyday use, this option is considered ideal. You can heat in the stove with any materials, this will not affect the level of efficiency.

"Swede" warms up very quickly

Functionality and configuration

The implementation of a brick oven for a summer residence implies the presence of certain functions. The main ones include cooking, space heating, heating of places to lie, the opportunity to admire the open flame on long winter evenings.

Before choosing the type of stove, you need to decide not only on the functionality, but also on the configuration and arrangement options. The shape of brick stoves for summer cottages can be different. Not only the appearance depends on this, but also the functionality. Masters distinguish:

• rectangular heating structures;
• T-shaped options;
• round ovens;
• Russians;
• babies.

The ability to heat a large area depends on the size. Small options are used more often for decoration and creating comfort in the room than for some functionality. For large structures, it is necessary to prepare firewood in advance, because in order for the temperature in the room to be constant, it is often necessary to heat it.

If the stove will be used exclusively for heating, then experts advise paying attention to fireplace structures, this will help save materials and money for construction and get the same result.

According to the principle of creation, channel options with forced movement of gases and furnaces with free movement are distinguished. The first option includes the Dutch and Swedish type. The fuel burns in the furnace, after which the smoke breaks through a special channel, and the heat is distributed over the surface of the display. Due to the powerful draft, combustion products are removed by the smoke channel.

The task of the design is to maximize the heating of the walls of the stove, and from here the heat will be distributed throughout the room for a long time. Furnaces with free movement of gases in terms of heat release behave differently.

Here, hot air gradually rises, displacing cold air down, where it is heated. Thanks to the free transition from one chamber to another, the heating process is fast, the temperature after that remains stable much longer than from the classic version.

As a standard, two or three chambers can be distinguished in stoves, which are interconnected by a dry seam, which is located below. The principle of operation of the bell-type furnace is simple, due to this, the design is popular not only in summer cottages, but also in houses intended for living all year round.

Advantages and disadvantages

In channel devices with forced movement of gases, a number of flaws stand out. It creates difficulties during installation and operation of the structure:

1. The heating rate of the room depends on the traction force. If it is humid or bad weather outside, then this reduces traction, firewood starts to burn more slowly. To enhance the masters are advised to make a high chimney to overcome resistance. If the house is with a low ceiling, then this type of stove will not work.
2. Hot air is concentrated at the top of the oven, which can make the floor quite cold.
3. The efficiency is low, even with a high chimney and additional fans to disperse heat, the figure will not exceed 55-60%. Standard thrust gives even less efficiency - approximately 40%.
4. A large structure slows down the heating process, which means that the stove needs to be heated longer so that the heat is evenly distributed over the surface and begins to be distributed in the room.

There are no significant drawbacks in stoves with free movement of gases, and due to the presence of several chambers, the air flow increases, the heating process is accelerated several times. You can use different design options in everyday life, but you must definitely take into account the features of their work and efficiency.

Do-it-yourself masonry features

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, it is necessary to create a powerful and reliable foundation for it. It is impossible to connect the foundation for the stove with the foundation for the house, since the latter shrinks over time, which can negatively affect the stove itself. To create the foundation, cement or concrete mortar can be used. You can create a base from special blocks, this also guarantees quality and endurance.

For the construction, several types of bricks can be used: ordinary ceramics and fireclay (refractory), from which the base of the stove is laid out. A solution of oven clay is used, it withstands high temperatures well, practically does not crack during operation.

When inserting a door for a firebox or an ash pan, it is imperative to tie it with burnt steel wire to increase strength. If the firebox is cast iron or another chamber made of this material, then an asbestos cord is additionally used, which compensates for the different temperature conditions of the elements.

For facing the finished structure, both ceramic elements and clinker bricks, decorative tiles can be used. The choice of finishing material depends on the type of stove and design style. For process may need the following components:

• ceramic full-bodied and fireclay bricks, masonry mortar;
• roofing material, asbestos cord, formwork boards;
• hob, ash pan, door elements.

In addition, special tools may be needed: a level, a construction marker, a shovel for mixing the solution, a protractor, a tape and a plumb line. If you follow the step-by-step instructions and fulfill all the requirements in the process of work, then the created stove will not only be functional, but also of high quality.

You can make a brick stove for a wood-fired cottage on your own, but you need to remember a few tricks. Thanks to this, the creation process will be fast and productive:

1. The thickness of the seam should not exceed 5 mm, the accuracy and evenness of the masonry depends on this.
2. Each layer must be checked not only with a building level, but also with a special plumb line in order to compare both the thickness and the width of the row. Only after measuring the created layer, you can proceed to work on the next one.
3. To create good traction, it is necessary to make a short way for the gas to escape, the so-called summer move.
4. In each row, the brick should overlap the joints of the previous one, it is necessary to start the layer from the corner.

In the process, it is necessary to monitor the consistency of the solution: if you place bricks on the surface for a long time, then the cement may dry out, then the procedure will become more complicated. To prevent this from happening, the masters advise creating a little mixture and finishing it already in the process of work. An interesting do-it-yourself stove can decorate any interior design, turn a house into a real work of art.

The question of how to fold a brick oven for a house with your own hands does not cease to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always been important conditions for a person to have a good rest after a hard day's work. Therefore, recently more and more urban residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private houses, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.

Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options that are acceptable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even in the case when all the "benefits of civilization" are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is wet or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.

Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, it is necessary to choose stoves with the most accessible, easily readable schemes for self-laying, especially if there is little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, in this case, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the furnace - these are its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and the aesthetic appearance is also important. And in order to choose the right furnace model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the right option.

How to choose the best oven option?

The choice of the installation site of the furnace

In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be properly installed, taking into account some nuances.

• First, it is decided what area can be allocated for installing the furnace.
• Then, you need to decide on a specific place:

- the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;

- built into the walls, between two or three rooms;

- is erected near the wall, with an indent from it of 250 ÷ 300 mm, if you need to heat only one room. However, it must be taken into account that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated by the rear walls will not be fully used.

• Having chosen an approximate place, it must be immediately marked, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through the attic floor between the beams and rafters, and at a distance of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm from them.
• When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each of its sides.
• In order to avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation site, it is necessary to take into account not only the above recommendations, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.

Calculation of the required power and estimation of firewood consumption

The stove will not be efficient and will not be able to heat the house if its power is not enough for a specific area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of wall and floor insulation, ceiling height and many other conditions.

For example, the higher the ceiling, the more air will have to be heated, and the larger the glazing area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means that you will have to choose a furnace with increased power. Usually, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average level, calculations should be made by a specialist individually, based on the specific characteristics of the house.

But in general, you can rely on average values. So, for well-insulated houses with ordinary glazing, with an area of ​​​​50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following heat output standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:

This value can be more accurately obtained from the local construction organization. And for fans of independent calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.

How to accurately calculate the required heat output?

Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require a different amount of thermal energy. The methodology for calculating the power of heating equipment is set out in a special publication of our portal dedicated to.

Having data for a particular region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated by the formula:

Wtotal \u003d S (m²) × Wsp (kW / m²)

For example, consider the power of a furnace for a brick house located in the Central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².

Wtotal = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW

Usually, furnace developers immediately indicate the thermal power of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It's not scary - they are easy to convert to watts and kilowatts:

In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:

10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour

Now you can calculate the profitability of the future stove, which largely depends, among other things, on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood-burning stoves do not have high efficiency. It is usually estimated at about 70%. If there is data for a specific furnace model, then a specific value is substituted.

Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value - the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that only bulk fuels are usually estimated in kilograms and tons - coal or, and firewood, as a rule, is measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator, therefore, depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of the energy potential (from the mass and from the storage volume) of the main types of solid fuels are shown in the table.

wood species	Average calorific value of dry firewood by weight, Qm (kW/kg)	Average calorific value of dry firewood by storage volume, Qv (kW / m³) (for coal and briquettes - kW / t)	The same - for wet wood (not past at least a yearly drying cycle)
Firewood:
Beech	4.2	2200	1930
Oak	4.2	2100	1850
Ash	4.2	2100	1850
Rowan	4.2	2100	1850
Birch	4.3	1900	1670
Elm	4.1	1900	1670
Maple	4.1	1900	1670
Aspen	4.1	1750	1400
Alder	4.1	1500	1300
Willow (willow)	4.1	1400	1230
Poplar	4.1	1400	1230
Pine	4.4	1700	1500
Larch	4.4	1700	1500
Fir	4.4	1600	1400
Spruce	4.3	1400	1200
Charcoal and briquettes:
Anthracite	8.1	8100	-
Charcoal	8.6	8600	-
Coal	6.2	6200	-
Brown coal	4.2	4200	-
Fuel briquettes	5.6	5600	-
Peat briquettes	3.4	3400	-

The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much the generated power is lost. Naturally, one should still count on firewood that has passed the necessary drying cycle.

Preparing firewood is a serious matter!

In order for the stove to justify its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About that, about their main characteristics, rules for harvesting, drying and storage - in a special publication of our portal.

The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:

V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours

To calculate the volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.

Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly, and even for the entire proposed heating period - in order to have an idea of ​​​​the upcoming costs of purchasing or harvesting the required amount of firewood.

To facilitate self-calculation, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.

New brick heating wood stoves should be built only from the highest quality materials. This will greatly extend their validity, greatly increase the comfort in the house without unforeseen repairs at the wrong time, but minimally increase the cost of construction.

Simple wood-burning stoves can be made independently, but only after studying all the design features. The steel casing and the brick case have different coefficients of expansion.

The operating temperature of the surface of a wood burning stove can reach 120C, so the metal casing must be fixed, i.e. tighten to the bricks with self-tapping screws around the perimeter to avoid lagging behind the brickwork.

materials

1. brand Sh8 perfectly accurate standard dimensions - 250x124x65 mm withstand temperatures up to +1600 C.
2. Bricks Sh9 (300x150x65) are also sometimes used in oven masonry.
3. Red oven (250x120x65) tolerates temperatures up to +800 C. But the instruction warns: due to less precise shapes, the seams here will be thicker.
4. Connecting high-temperature mastic (up to +1500 C) brand Garant +. Furnace forums recommend a solution: mastic + fireclay clay + fireclay powder in equal proportions guarantees good bonding.

Note!
Double silicate brick M 150 is suitable only for the base.

Required Tool

• A device for cutting materials: an electric circular saw, a cutting stone for concrete and just a grinder. But special machines for such work are also sold.

Advice!
For safety, the brick must be well fixed and put on a mask that will protect our breath from dust.

• Electric sharpener for chamfering bricks.
• Level.
• Spatulas.
• Plumb.
• Drill.
• Hammer.

Installation of furnace fittings

A good do-it-yourself wood-burning brick oven is being built with the correct installation of fittings.

Installation of the grate

The photo shows an example of fixing a grate in a small-sized furnace.

• We install the grate, leaving a gap of 5 mm for expansion from heating.
• This element is held on 2 cast iron or steel plates with a minimum thickness of 6 mm and 2 M6 bolts.
• Firebox bricks limit the design. Now the replacement of plates and grates is always possible.

Sealed oven doors

• Purchased doors are fixed with tungsten or stainless steel wire, fixed with mortar during masonry. It will be most firmly held by a stainless steel frame (25x25x1.5 mm) connected with M5 bolts.
• In the bricks at the top and bottom with a grinder, we will cut a groove of 3 mm x 25 mm, install a frame, and freely open doors into it.

• A strip of basalt on bricks will extend the life of the firebox.
• A new brick wood-burning stove for the home involves a simple overlap of the firebox with 1 brick Sh9.

Advice!
So that the artificial stone does not crack when overheated, we fix a 5 mm thick steel screen on the frame, and behind it we lay 2 layers of thermal paper or basalt cardboard.

• Similarly, we will install a cleaning, blowing door, but with a minimum gap.

Valve installation

• Stove valve ZV-1u (195x195 mm) is designed for a smoke hole 130x130. We can reduce it with a grinder.
• The valve enters the bricks by 20 mm.
• Under the latch we lay a basalt frame.
• From above the valve is held by bricks.

Independent oven device

Traditional wood-fired brick stoves for the home have a solid body - this is a bent casing and base.

• The casing can also be made not bent: from 3 plates and corners. We cut the steel with a grinder, make a hole 95x135 mm under the cleaning door. We connect the casing with rivets to the base.
• For the base, we weld steel corners. From above we rivet a steel sheet of 2 mm. The base is covered with high-temperature paint.
• We put the base with the casing on a building brick connected with mastic.
• A template of 623x501 mm from laths and chipboard for fitting bricks will improve the laying. Assume a gap of 1 mm.
• We dilute the thickened mastic with water. On the outer edges of the stones, we will chamfer 2 mm, and on the bends - up to 10 mm.
• Apply mastic with a spatula on both surfaces. Then press down with a mallet and remove the excess solution.
• The horizontal and vertical masonry will show the level.

Orders

Consider do-it-yourself.

• 1 row. At the bottom to expand the chimney, we will install bricks Ш6.
• 2 row. For the corner of the cleaning door in the brick, we make a groove of 20 mm.
• 3 row. We cut a groove 40x30 mm.
• 4 row. In an artificial stone we make a groove for the grate.
• 5 row. Under the furnace door in a brick, we cut a groove for a square with a depth of 15 mm.
• In 6,7,8,9 rows we make the back wall with lightweight material Ш8 - ШЛ1,3. This will reduce the heating of the wall.
• We put the furnace door according to the above plan. But if we put strips of paranite between the case and the glass, the glass will not be smoky. And the cost of expenses is minimal.
• 10 row. Let's block the doors with two glued bricks Ш8. We will wrap the door itself with basalt cardboard, and then insert it into the orders.
• 13 row. Let's try it by simply laying them out first in order of 12 - a hob will fall on them. Basalt cardboard will also give her sealing, and we will turn the brick around with a corner.
• 14 row. We will cut grooves for valves, and grooves for the engine in the outer elements.
• 18 row. We create a hole and insert its first part - the start of the sandwich, and later - the entire chimney, which can be wrapped with mineral wool. The casing must be attached to the brick with 16 mm self-tapping screws.

Output

We build all brick wood-burning stoves for the house in the correct order.

1. We will make a metal fire casing from cheap stainless steel 1.0 mm (AISI 430 brand). Also suitable are galvanized and black steel coated with high temperature paint.
2. We lay out the oven on a puff stand 600x800 mm.
   • Plywood 4 mm, protected from decay.
   • Basalt cardboard.
   • Aceite 8 mm.
   • Galvanized 0.7 mm.
   • The stand is framed by a duralumin corner (it has a removable part in front). The stand will save the floor from overheating and overload.
     
3. A thermal screen made of basalt cardboard, aceite, galvanized will protect the wall.

After carefully watching the video in this article, we can decisively begin the construction of the furnace - warmth and comfort are guaranteed.