Ways to level the corners of the room with plaster. How to align the corners of the walls with a perforated corner video Align the outer corner of the wall

Curved corners are a common phenomenon that occurs not only in old apartments, but also in new buildings. If small wall irregularities can be masked with wallpaper or decorative elements, then corner defects after finishing with wallpaper or tiles will be even more noticeable. Alignment of external and internal corners can become part of the process of finishing the walls with finishing plaster and putty, or can be done separately if the condition of the wall surface does not require serious intervention. Let's find out how different methods.

Internal corners

The choice of one of the three alignment methods in this case depends on whether it is done together with the plastering of the walls or independently.

Lighthouse Alignment

This method is used only in the process of working with the entire surface of the walls.

Necessary materials

• lighthouses - metal or wooden slats;
• screws or dowels;
• rule;
• plumb;
• spatulas - straight and angled.

Sequence of work

• Fasten the beacons to the surface of the walls using fasteners at a distance equal to the length of the rule. Indentation from the corner - 5-7 cm.
• Using a plumb line, determine deviations from the vertical, make marks on the floor and ceiling, and, if necessary, place wedges in the right places.
• Start applying plaster on one side. Fill the space between the beacons, distribute the solution with the rule. After the layer dries, go to the second wall.

Important! Make sure that at the junction is not going to a large number of mixtures. To eliminate excess after the composition has dried, use a spatula.

• To form an even joint, use an angled spatula moistened with water.
• After the plaster has dried, remove the beacons and seal the voids with the same compound.

Use of the counter-shoulder

The best solution when aligning the corners is to use a counter-shoulder - a perforated corner made of aluminum.

Necessary materials

• scissors for cutting metal;
• long rule;
• sandpaper;
• putty mix.

Sequence of work

1. Measure the required length of the aluminum corner and carefully cut it with special scissors, being careful not to bend the malleable metal.
2. Apply a small amount of gypsum plaster to the joint of the walls and attach the counter-shulz, pressing it lightly with a rule. Remove excess mortar with a spatula, moving away from the joint with smoothing movements.
3. After the putty has dried, go over the surface with sandpaper. If there are small irregularities, apply another thin layer putties.

Sickle Method

How to level the corner of the wall if it is not planned to carry out large-scale work on plastering and puttying the entire surface of the walls? In this situation, a wide sickle ribbon will help out.

Necessary materials

• wooden rectangular bar 50-60 cm long;
• gypsum putty.

Sequence of work

1. Apply a small amount of mortar to the joint of the walls and to the surface adjacent to the corner. The width of the strip of applied putty will be 10 cm on each side.
2. Attach the reinforcing tape to the top of the corner and gently unwind the roll so that the sickle does not move to the side.
3. Pressing the bar to the joint, give the corner correct form. If the tape is wrinkled during the process, level it with a spatula, remove excess putty, moving in the direction from the joint.

Important! The movements of the spatula must be careful not to disturb the position of the tape. At the same time, you cannot wait for the mixture to dry, as this will deprive you of the opportunity to adjust the position of the sickle.

Alignment of external corners

For external corners, there are two ways to align: with and without a counter-shul.

Alignment method without countershoulder

For alignment external joint walls in this way you will need:

• spatulas;
• rule;
• perfectly flat board or plank wrapped with tape;
• fine-grained sandpaper.

Sequence of work

1. Knock down large protrusions, fill large gaps with plaster.
2. On the surface of the wall at the point of contact with the joint, place the bar. Do this in such a way that it protrudes from the corner by a distance equal to the thickness of the required plaster layer. Fasten it to the floor and ceiling, with the right length it can be inserted as a spacer.
3. Apply the mixture, spread with the rule of motion towards the joint with a slight downward slope. If necessary, repeat the procedure after the layer has dried.
4. After two or three days, remove the plank and attach it to the ledge on the other side, already plastered, and repeat the above steps.
5. After drying, sand the surface.

Forming an outer corner with a counter-shoulder

Using a profile will not only simplify the alignment process, but also reliably protect the outer corner from damage.

Necessary materials

• gypsum mixture;
• rule;
• putty knife;
• level;
• sandpaper with fine grain.

Sequence of work

1. Apply the prepared mortar to the surfaces adjacent to the wall joint.
2. Cut according to desired length fasten the counter-shuts at the joint, using the rule to prevent deformation of the aluminum corner.
3. Remove excess mixture with a spatula, check with a level that the corner is fastened correctly, if necessary, adjust its position.
4. After drying, sand the surface with fine sandpaper.
5. The final leveling is carried out together with the application of putty on the rest of the wall surface.

Aligning corners with plaster or putty is a more familiar method for many, but at the same time it is quite “dirty” and laborious. It is worth resorting to this method if the curvature is minimal. In the case of significant curvature of walls and corners, it would be more appropriate to use drywall sheets.

No matter how expensive the repair is, no matter how neat the whitewashing of the walls is, and no matter how expensive the wallpaper is - the whole view of the completed, in fact, repair can be spoiled by one small detail - carelessly decorated or crooked corners. The corners in the room should simply be even and resemble a thread stretched tightly from the ceiling to the floor. In this case, small irregularities and flaws in the walls themselves will not be evident.

Causes of uneven corners

Aligning the corners in the room until the effect of a stretched thread in the corners of the room is difficult and at the same time quite simple even with your own hands. However, the first step is to find out for what reason the corners in the room are not too even. There may be several of them: from poor-quality plaster, in which there is much more sand than the technology requires, to a crooked wall. Of course, all such flaws in construction and previous repairs will have to be corrected, and in different occasions and act differently.

So, first you need to find out why, in fact, the corners in the room turned out to be crooked. The degree of deviation of the wall from the vertical can be easily found by attaching a long building level to it or by making a simple plumb line from a long string and a fishing sinker, a large nut or something like that. Just attach the free end of the thread to the corner between the wall and the ceiling, and gradually lower the end with the load to the floor. When the load lies freely on the floor, you can simply measure the distance from it to the corner between the wall and the floor.

If the wall is tilted to the other side, and the load from the corner between the wall and the ceiling does not fall, but slides along the wall, you need to lower it almost to the floor and, raising the free end of the twine to the ceiling, make sure that the load is right in the corner between the wall and floor, then measure the distance from the twine to the corner between the wall and the ceiling.

If in both cases the distance is more than two centimeters, the slope of the wall is too strong to handle with your own hands. Especially if, in addition to the slope of the wall, you are also dealing with low-quality old plaster, which is easier to completely remove than trying to apply another, high-quality plaster or putty on top of a layer crumbling from any touch. The easiest way in such cases is to completely clean the walls of old plaster and plaster on a new one, or use drywall.
In the same way, with the help of a do-it-yourself plumb line, you can determine in which direction and how much the corner of the room is littered.

If the slope of the wall is not very strong, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself, without resorting to building plasterboard structures around the walls. In this case, you will need:

• dry plaster mix when it comes to arranging a new room, or you decide to completely renovate the room and remove the old plaster. Experts recommend using gypsum plaster mixtures in such cases. They grab faster and slip less. Their use can significantly reduce the time of work;
• start and finish putty. The amount of material directly depends on the degree of curvature of the walls;
• primer;
• brush and roller for applying a primer;
• a drill with a mixer and a container for mixing a solution of plaster and putty;
• rule;
• perforated corner (contrashultz). You can buy metal perforated corners or made of plastic. Such corners make the job very easy. An additional advantage can be considered that even if such a corner cannot be installed strictly vertically, the entire angle will still be even;
• building level (long water or laser), plumb;
• construction spatulas (one at least 45 cm wide, the other narrow - about 10 cm).

Inner corner

We omit the sequence of surface preparation. The angle with which the work will be carried out must be carefully primed, this will increase adhesion. The putty solution for the corner should be thicker than usual.

This solution fills the corner. The putty should be applied without sparing, it is possible - at intervals of 15-20 cm. Next, we apply a perforated corner pre-cut along the length to this putty and press it into the putty, but not evenly. If the corner collapses into the room, then as much as possible, almost to the very wall should be pressed upper part perforated corner, and if the corner collapses outward, then press into the corner, on the contrary, the lower part of the counter-shoulder. Opposite Angle perforated corner can be aligned with a long building level. You can also use a plumb line, but with it the process will take a little longer if you do the work yourself and alone.

After the corner is fixed on the putty in a vertical position, the excess putty is carefully removed so as not to dislodge it and left to dry for a day.

The perforated corner is also good in that it does not have to be solid to align the corner. The corner in the room can be completely leveled with the help of pieces of a perforated corner, overlapping each other. This will allow you to work with virtually no residue, and the places where the corner overlaps will be securely hidden under a layer of finishing putty.
The next day, it remains only to level the surface of the perforated corner and the entire wall. This can be easily done with a wide spatula and a starting putty solution of normal density. With a narrow spatula, the solution is applied to the blade of a wide spatula over its entire width.

Then one end of the spatula rests on the perforated corner, the other on the wall, and in this way the difference is leveled first on one side of the corner, then on the other.
If the difference is large, it is unlikely that it will be possible to level the surfaces the first time. But then small flaws can be corrected with a finishing putty solution.

outside corner

The outer corner is much easier to align than the inner. There is no need for such painstaking work. You will need the same tools and materials as for leveling internal corners. And the process itself differs, by and large, only in that the perforated corner is applied to the surface in reverse.

If there is no time to wait until the putty in the corner dries, you can replace it with a special drywall adhesive. It dries pretty quickly and within an hour after the perforated corner is fixed, the surfaces can be leveled. If, however, to level the surfaces, you also use not a mixture of starting putty, but glue for drywall, you can easily put the corners in the room in order in one day of work.

In this case, you can level the walls with dry gypsum plaster - drywall.
Drywall sheets are attached around the wall to a special frame made of metal profile or on the wall itself using dowels or a special adhesive solution for drywall, which we talked about above. In fact, a new thin wall of drywall sheets is built near the curved wall, under which all the flaws in the construction and previous repairs are hidden.
This method of leveling corners and walls has certain advantages over the leveling method using putty:

• before installing drywall metal carcass no removal of old wallpaper, whitewash or plaster is required. All this will be safely hidden under sheets of drywall;
• the whole process is relatively clean: no need to mix putty solutions;
• it is possible to apply a layer of finishing putty on drywall immediately after completion of installation work, and a layer of starting putty will always need to be pre-dryed;
• if the wall cladding with drywall is done correctly, additional adjustment of the corners of the room is no longer required. The inner corners can be puttied with a reinforcing tape, and the same perforated corner is useful for the outer corners.

This method also has disadvantages:

• drywall is a material that absorbs moisture well. Therefore, it should not be used in rooms with high humidity, where over time it will lose its properties, and the entire wall will noticeably warp again.
• drywall sheets are a relatively fragile material; the coating from it is easily susceptible to mechanical damage.

For especially difficult cases, a combined method can be used, which is as follows: drywall sheets are mounted on a particularly noticeably littered part of the wall, and after the glue has set, the difference with the corners and the rest of the wall can be leveled with a starting putty and then finished.

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High-quality repairs require alignment of all surfaces - walls, floors, ceilings. Aligning corners with your own hands for many seems like an impossible task. It's not as difficult to do as it seems, if you stock up necessary set tools and the right materials.

Align the walls and corners with plaster mixtures or dry plaster - drywall. If there is no desire and funds to level all the walls, at least take care of the corners. In this case, the angle is displayed visually so that it does not go in waves along the entire height.

Alignment of walls and corners with drywall

Drywall is dry gypsum plaster. Sheets are attached to the frame or directly to the wall using plaster adhesive mixture and dowels. This alignment method has advantages over the "wet" method:

• installation of plasterboard on the frame does not require the removal of old wallpaper or whitewash;
• mixing of plaster solutions is not required, the process is relatively clean;
• GKL can be puttied immediately after installation, while the plaster layer needs to be dried.

Disadvantages:

• fragile material, not resistant to mechanical damage;
• not used in rooms with high humidity.

Leveling corners with plaster

Aligning the corners will not cause you any difficulties if you can plaster the walls in a level and in one plane. Main stages of work:

• surface cleaning;
• plaster;
• putty.

Use to level the walls. To make the corner even, you should plaster one wall and wait for the plaster layer to dry completely. Then beacons are installed on the second wall and a layer of plaster is applied. Minor errors will hide putty.

After the two walls that form the corner are plastered, you just have to slightly touch up the corner with putty.

It is more difficult to align the corners if you do not plan to plaster the entire wall. Aligning the inner corners is more painstaking work than the outer ones. This is due to the fact that when working with external corners, you can plaster both walls at once. Aligning the inner corner, you must wait for the complete drying of one wall, then proceed to the second.

Tools and materials

• brush and roller for primer;
• level - laser or water, plumb;
• container for mixing the plaster mixture;
• drill with mixer;
• rule;
• spatula - wide 45 cm and narrow - 20 cm;
• primer;
• dry plaster mixture;
• perforated corners;
• putty.

It is more convenient to work with a gypsum plaster mixture - it sets faster, does not slip. This allows you to reduce the time of work. A Knauf Rotband will do.

Internal corners are aligned in two ways. The surface preparation method is the same.

1. Cleaning of old coatings - removal of old wallpaper and whitewash, dismantling of ceramic tiles.
2. Surface priming.
3. When working with cement plaster mortars, the corners should be cleaned of dust. Moisten before applying plaster.

Alignment with the use of a counter-shoulder - a perforated aluminum corner

Corner aligner is used for work with internal and external corners. Such a corner is necessary for external corners in order to protect against mechanical damage. In addition, it makes work easier. Even if you do not install the corner strictly vertically, the corner will turn out to be even, without bends.

1. Cut the corners to length.
2. Prepare the plaster mixture.
3. Apply to the corner. The inner corner is filled with the mixture completely. On the outer corner apply the mixture with flip flops.
4. Install the corner, checking its verticality with a level.
5. Carefully remove excess plaster mixture and leave to dry.

After the corners are installed, you will have to level their edges with the wall. To avoid a sharp transition, apply the plaster mixture starting from the corner by 50-80 cm. wide spatula, gradually reducing "to nothing".
After the plaster layer has dried, treat the surface with a primer.
Further leveling is carried out using putty. Putty is able to hide minor flaws and irregularities.

Alignment with a mark made using a plumb or level

This method is suitable for leveling internal corners.

1. Mark one wall with a level or plumb mark.
2. Prepare the mixture.
3. Fill the corner with plaster mixture according to the mark.
4. Smooth out the mixture with a wide spatula.
5. After the plaster has dried on the first wall, proceed to the second in the same way.

It is not always possible to make a strictly right angle. Opposite walls sometimes differ in length by 5-10 cm. It will take a large amount of plaster to make a strictly rectangular room. Such accuracy is needed only when preparing corners and walls for tiling. The main requirement is to achieve vertical angles.

Along the way overhaul the wall screed procedure is one of the most time-consuming due to the large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis surface. The most difficult stage of work is the corner sections: before you align the corners of the walls, you need to decide on the method and materials.

Why is it needed

room with smooth walls and corners looks very nice: in this case, any subsequent design does not encounter any obstacles. On the other hand, even with a high-quality ceiling surface, beautiful furniture and floor covering crooked uneven corners will smear all the favorable impression. There is a common belief that such defects can be smoothed out by decorating with various elements: if this can work with walls, then it is almost impossible to hide uneven corners. In order not to puzzle over the elimination of such shortcomings at the final stage of finishing the premises, it is recommended that due attention be paid to this issue initially.

Despite the sufficient complexity of the corner alignment procedure, armed with clear instructions, even a beginner can implement it. The first step is to decide on the appropriate method, which is affected by the degree of curvature, the skill of the performer and some of the nuances of the room.

The main ways to align corners:

1. Plaster. This method is usually used when plastering the entire room, when the corners are aligned with the walls. It should be said right away that this method is quite laborious, requiring both strength and time. The base material used here is a standard cement-based stucco mortar. There is also an option with dry gypsum plasters, which are much more convenient to use, but much more expensive. Taking into account the fact that quite a lot of material is needed to finish all walls and corners, they usually try to get by with cheaper mixtures.

1. Plasterboard boards. In this case, the share of the so-called "wet" processes, which increases the speed of work and reduces the amount of dirt. This method involves creating a perfectly flat surface of plasterboard over the rough base. Their installation is carried out in two ways - by gluing or fixing on a pre-mounted frame. The second option is easier to implement, but it involves some loss of living space (the frame hides about 50 mm along each wall). As in the case of plaster, plasterboard corner sheathing is used in conjunction with the general alignment of the walls.

1. With a label. Most often, internal corners are aligned in this way. A mark is placed on one of the walls with a plumb or level, after which this area is filled with a plaster mixture (starting putty is usually used). A long spatula is used for leveling. After the mortar has set, the second wall of the corner is formed in a similar way. This method is usually used in situations of local repair, when it is not necessary to achieve the ideal angle of 90 degrees: the main thing is that the site looks visually even. In principle, if everything is in order with the eye, you can do without a plumb line.

1. Kontrashulz. This is the name of a special perforated corner, which is often used in painting and plastering. It plays the role of a kind of beacon, installed on the very top of the corner (internal or external) along a plumb line: its sides set directions for plaster in both directions. In this case, it is most convenient to use gypsum starting mixtures as a material - compared to cement plaster, they are more elastic and set faster.

How to straighten corners

Quality levels

Getting started, the first step is to determine the required level of quality, which is affected by the type of finish:

• The use of complex wallpaper with a pattern, ceramic, clinker or porcelain tiles suggests the presence of very High Quality base (the 90 degree angle must be kept perfectly). In this case, each of the stages of work must be checked by level.

• If painting, decorative plaster, simple or liquid wallpaper will be used as the final design, alignment can only be carried out on a plane.

materials

As for the choice of material for plaster, then the following considerations are guided by:

• For work outdoors or indoors high level humidity, it is recommended to use a cement, lime or polymer mortar. Gypsum plasters under such conditions, they will get wet and crumble.

• Dry rooms, in addition to the above materials, can be finished starting putties(plasters) based on gypsum.

When buying ready-made mixtures, you need to focus only on well-known brands. The material should only be stored in dry rooms, therefore it is not recommended to purchase it in the market or in any other similar place. Usually, dry plaster packages indicate the approximate consumption of material per 1 m² of area, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. It makes it easier to count required amount material.

Instruments

To align the corners, you need to prepare the following tools:

• A container for preparing the solution (preferably plastic).
• Building level and plumb.
• Rule and set of spatulas.
• Grater made of foam or wood.
• Drill with mixing nozzle for mixing mortar.

Most often, the method of plastering on beacons is used for this, which is implemented in the following sequence of operations:

1. Foundation preparation. Both sides of the corner must be thoroughly cleaned of all remnants of the old finish - wallpaper, paint, old plaster or putty. In cases where the old plaster layer is very strong, it can be left. It is much more difficult with paint: it is very difficult to remove it, and it cannot be left. IN extreme cases a very durable painted surface is equipped with a notch (it is applied with a sharp hatchet or pick). If protruding elevations are found on the cleaned wall, they must be knocked down with a hammer and chisel.

1. Primer. The cleaned base is treated with acrylic impregnation deep penetration. This allows you to additionally fix the surface and remove dust residues. As a result, the level of adhesion of the base and plaster is significantly increased. Quite often, traces of mold and fungus are found on the corner sections of the wall (this is especially true for the inner corners near the window). In this case, along with the usual primer, a special antibacterial agent is used for processing.

1. Installation of beacons. Alignment of the walls is carried out using special plaster beacons. To do this, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base is divided into equal sections of 1-1.5 m (depending on the length of the rule) by vertical lines, along which guides will be installed in the future. The first plank is mounted indented from the corner by 10 cm: thick plaster or alabaster can be used to fix it. Having set this beacon at the desired height, they similarly mount another guide on the opposite side of the wall.

Installation of plaster beacons for the inner corner

It is important to clearly orient each of these planks vertically, for which you need a plumb line or level. To set intermediate beacons, 2 nails are driven into the fixed planks (top and bottom). Also, for fixing beacons, you can use a plaster mixture, as in the image above. By pulling a fishing line or cord between the nails, they get the necessary guidelines for the rest of the beacons. Since the plastering of the corners is usually carried out with a similar procedure on the walls, the beacons are installed on the entire wall area. Upon completion of the installation, the nails and fishing line must be removed.

1. Solution preparation. It is easiest to mix ready-made dry mixes: in this case, you just need to follow the proportions of water and powder indicated on the package. If the instructions are missing (or printed on foreign language) the following order is applied: first, pour into the container clean water, and then, creating a small whirlpool with your hand, pour the dry mixture (it should completely cover the water). Stirring with a mixer is carried out in two stages: after general mixing, having achieved uniformity of the solution, pause for 4-5 minutes, after which the final short kneading is carried out.

The situation is more complicated with cement or lime plaster: here you need to independently prepare a dry mixture of sand and cement (or lime) in the required proportions, and then carry out general mixing with water. Regardless of the type of solution used, it is not recommended to prepare too large portions (especially if the work is carried out by a beginner). It is better to start with small batches, increasing their volume as dexterity develops.

1. Corner alignment. It is more convenient to first align one plane of the angle, and after it has set, the second. This is due to the fact that adjacent walls located in close proximity cannot be properly designed, because. the tool will leave grooves on the wet surface of the opposite plane. Ready solution first, it is thrown onto one of the walls in the intervals between the beacons, after which, with the help of a rule moving along the guides from bottom to top, they are evenly laid on the surface. Having designed one side in this way, they pause for its setting (about 30 minutes), after which they begin to level the second side. In those cases when the walls are aligned with the corners, there is no need for such pauses: starting from the corner, they plaster the whole room in a circle.

Alignment of the inner corner of the wall: first, the first wall is plastered, after it has set, the second wall is plastered

If there is a need to achieve an ideal angle of 90 degrees, use a special corner spatula.

Sometimes it is not possible to completely level the surface in one go due to too large irregularities, which involves applying another plaster layer. To do this, it is advisable to wait for the complete drying of the starting plaster (meaning not setting, but complete drying over the entire thickness of the bait). If you apply a second layer on a wet base, then the moisture clogged inside will provoke the appearance of pockets inside the finish.

Other Ways to Align an Inner Corner

If you want to align the inner corner locally, without processing all the walls, then there is no need to set beacons for this. The main task in such a situation is to avoid a height difference between the finish and the rest of the base. There is no need to talk about the ideal observance of the angle of 90 degrees. All that can be offered here is to make the walls visually even by filling in the visible depressions and eliminating the elevations. In this case, the so-called. the "mark" method, which is implemented with a wide spatula and gypsum plaster.

This will require the so-called. "Kontrashultz" - a perforated corner made of aluminum, equipped with a serpentine mesh around the edges. In addition to the convenience of the alignment procedure, the counter-shulz further creates additional protection for the outer corner, which, more often than other sections of the wall, undergoes mechanical stress. If you do not take additional measures, it may even fall off with a strong impact.

Outside corner alignment procedure description:

• Training. As in the case of the internal corner, here you will need to remove all old finish and knock down all detected bulges of concrete. Thereafter the cleaned base is primed .

• Corner installation. This is the most responsible operation, on the correctness of which the quality of the entire finish depends. The complexity of the procedure is that the countershults must be set both vertically and along the height of the leveling layer. It is most convenient to put it on alabaster, checking the verticality of the installation by a plumb line. As for the fixation height, it is determined visually: it is desirable that the thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 10 mm.

Installing the countershoulder

• Solution laying. Alignment is convenient to start from the bottom of the corner, immediately on both sides (to avoid movement of the counter-shoulder, it can be additionally screwed with self-tapping screws). The prepared plaster mixture (the kneading procedure was described in the previous part) is thrown onto the wall, and then pulled together with a rule or a wide spatula. You can also apply the solution directly to the tool and tighten the wall from the bottom to the top. There is no fundamental difference here, it all depends on individual preferences. Having plastered the bottom on one side, they immediately go to the second. Excess mortar is usually concentrated at the top of the corner: they are removed with a spatula and used for further finishing. Having finished the plaster in the lower part of the corner, they move to the upper one: for this you need a convenient construction goat of a suitable height.

• The final stage. Having finished the entire corner, it is allowed to dry, after which another layer is allowed to be applied for the final alignment of minor flaws. In principle, finishing putty is intended for solving such problems.

You can also watch a video about installing paint corners:

About leveling walls with drywall

Gypsum boards can be used for both internal and external corners. As in the case of beacon plastering, this method is usually used to completely level all walls. There are also situations when one of the walls is sewn up with drywall (for example, near a window). In any case, the corners obtained in this way must be finalized with plaster or putty. Since the common plane is already set by the sheets, it will only be necessary to smooth the transitions from one side to the other. The seams are pre-sealed with a special Fugenfüller mixture and reinforced with a sickle mesh. In the case of an outside corner, it is recommended to use the familiar perforated corner. Gypsum putty is used as a leveling solution, because. there is no need for a particularly thick layer.

Finishing

When performing leveling work on corner sections, a certain diligence and diligence will be required: the better this work is done, the less hassle will be at the finishing stage. Subsequent construction operations depend on what material is supposed to decorate the wall. Under wallpaper and painting, the surface leveled with the starting mixture is additionally puttied to make the base as smooth as possible. tiling and decorative plaster can be carried out without putty.

Even a novice master who has replaced experience with diligence can plaster a flat surface. When working with complex reliefs, one effort will not be enough. Here you need either experience or a special device - a perforated corner, with which you can beat the pairing of surfaces. We will tell you how experienced plasterers and novice craftsmen using a perforated corner align the corners.

How to level the corners of the walls with plaster and a spatula

In the room of any dwelling there will always be at least four internal and six external corners. Internal corners are formed due to the conjugation of adjacent walls, and external corners are formed by a window and doorway. And if the walls and openings are finished with plaster, then the presentability of such a cladding will depend, among other things, on the quality of the edges at the junctions of the planes.

Therefore, experienced plasterers draw Special attention at the junction of the trimmed planes. Moreover, to form ideal edges, real masters use only a plaster mortar and a spatula, acting as follows:

1. 1. First you need to calculate the deviation of the face from the vertical and horizontal, using the simplest plumb line.
2. 2. Next, you need to measure the perpendicularity of the mating of the planes using a square.
3. 3. After that, you need to install beacons on the plane, setting the depth of the missing layer of plaster.
4. 4. Further, having finished with preliminary measurements and beacons, the master prepares the starting and finishing (finishing) plaster mortar. If the vertical and horizontal deviations are insignificant, then you can align the corners of the walls only with fine putty, without a rough sketch of the starting plaster.
5. 5. After that, the mortar is thrown onto one and the other plane and leveled with a rule, with a periodic measurement of the vertical with a plumb line.
6. 6. In the final, the corner is finely grouted with a special spatula.

At the same time, the corner alignment technique assumes the following approach to finishing: first, a plane is cast with a maximum deviation from the vertical (horizontal), after which the mortar is allowed to harden, and then the plaster is thrown onto the plane with a minimum deviation, using the frozen layer as a beacon.

In the final, the joint is brought to perfect condition via finishing putty and a special spatula, made in the form of a corner. The finishing mass is applied to the wall and carefully rubbed with a corner. If you don’t have an angled spatula at hand, then you can use a regular tool with a flat scraper and a rule that is set along the edge instead.

The scraper with the finishing composition glides over the wall and the rule, forming perfect angle On the one side. Then the rule is rearranged to the other side, waiting for the plaster to dry on the finished plane, and the operation is repeated again. Moreover, success in this matter comes only to experienced plasterers, so all novice masters prefer to use a perforated corner.

How to level a wall corner with a perforated corner

With a corner, the master does not need either a preliminary measurement of deviations or a leveling beacon. It will replace both, significantly reducing the complexity of the operation. With a corner, you can align the corner of the wall by spending minimal time on this job. And in this case, you need to act like this:

1. 1. We measure the length of the edge of the joint with a tape measure and cut off the corner. Moreover, in a standard-plan apartment, one corner strip will be enough for any joint.
2. 2. We knead the solution (at least a rough one, at least a finish one) and apply a shaft with a spatula up to a centimeter deep on the very edge intended for leveling.
3. 3. We apply a corner to the plaster mortar shaft and press it down with a spatula, not forgetting to periodically check the vertical with a plumb line.
4. 4. We remove the remnants of the solution that has come through the perforation in the corner plate. Once again we check the vertical or horizontal and leave the joint alone for 20-30 minutes.
5. 5. After half an hour, we begin to plaster the mating planes, leaning with a spatula on the ledge at the junction of the profile plates.

As a result, you get a perfectly flat surface, and in this case it is not necessary to carry out a fine alignment of the corners of the walls (grouting the joint). The perforated insert will play the role of a beacon that does not allow the spatula to spoil the joint line.

In addition, after finishing, the perforated plates will work as a reinforcing insert. Therefore, door and window openings will not be covered with chips and cracks, which inevitably appear over time on any edges that are not protected from accidental impacts.

Moreover, with the help of a perforated plate-corner, it is possible to protect not only straight joints, but also curved surfaces formed as on inside any wall (in the interior), and on the outer surface (in the exterior). To do this, you just need to choose the right profile from the product range of similar products offered by sellers.

Varieties of plaster corners

In most cases, the assortment of plaster corner profiles is classified by type structural material used in the manufacture of such a product. And on this basis, the product range is divided into two groups: metal and polymer.

The metal group includes corners made of steel and aluminum. Steel, of course, is the most common (structural), but to protect the product from corrosion, it is coated with zinc. Aluminum is not subject to corrosion, so it goes to profiles without additional coating.

The planes of metal products laid on mating surfaces must be perforated. During installation, through the hole in the strips of the corner profile, the plaster appears, holding the product at the junction. In some cases, in addition to perforation, the strips of a metal product are supplemented with a steel mesh, which guarantees stable fixation on walls with a large deviation from the vertical.

The thickness of the strips of metal profiles does not exceed 0.4 mm, so they are readily used in contrast to thick polymer products. However, such products go only to straight joints. It is simply unrealistic to assemble an arc using a metal profile.

The polymer group includes both classic and arched corners. The stripes of the latter version are not monolithic, but are designed in the form of teeth. As a result, due to this feature and the natural plasticity of the polymer, using such a profile, it is possible to beat not only a straight, but also a rounded joint (the same arch).

Besides, polymer products do not rust from the moisture contained in the plaster solution and are cheaper than steel counterparts. However, arched and ordinary polymer corners have one drawback - they are designed for applying a plaster layer with a minimum depth of at least 3 mm. Therefore, only under fine finish such products are not recommended.

According to the design of the planes, polymer profiles do not differ from metal counterparts. They have the same footage, the width of the strips and perforation, which allows you to stick the strip on the plaster shaft. Only instead of steel mesh polymer version a fiberglass analogue is used, which, however, has a comparable tensile strength.