What is better for ceiling insulation. How to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house? Proper insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house

One of the problems in a private house is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in an apartment building from above warm apartment, then in our case overhead only cold attic or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house, if for some reason it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Material selection

Let's start with the structure of the insulation. It will be multi-layered; we have to follow in sequence:

• External vapor barrier insulation;
• Crate for filling with heat-insulating material;
• actual thermal insulation;
• Internal vapor barrier;
• Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

vapor barrier

Glassine is most often used as a vapor barrier - an inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need extra insurance against leaks, good old-fashioned plastic wrap is your best bet. It is absolutely impervious to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap. If the ceiling is sloping (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from the bottom up so that condensate cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally glue the inner layer of the vapor barrier with adhesive tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures necessary? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensate. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces the thermal insulation qualities. And indoor humidity in winter is always much higher than outdoors (see).

Please note: if we insulate the reinforced concrete floor from below, the top layer of vapor barrier is not needed. Between moisture-impermeable concrete and thermal insulation, there is simply nowhere for water to come from.

heat insulating material

Most often, two materials are used as insulation.:

1. Styrofoam. It's styrofoam. The slabs it is sold with are large enough; recommended thickness for temperate climate- 5 centimeters, for Siberia and Far East – 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will not change (see).

1. Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than polystyrene with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about possible harm to health do not subside about the properties of expanded polystyrene.

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that the foam plastic changes properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool caking over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose expanded polystyrene boards as thermal insulation, the inner layer of vapor barrier is also useless. It is enough just to glue the seams between the plates with a wide adhesive tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply put on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.

crate

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

Wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile is not deformed by fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by the fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Note: if we are talking about how to insulate the ceiling of a wooden house from the inside - you can safely make a crate from a bar or slats. Indeed, what is the point of making a suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and overlays? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the crate with an antiseptic.

Binder

Here everything is in your hands. Most fast way hem the ceiling Wall panels from PVC. In addition, they are easy to wash.

However, drywall will give a smooth surface without seams; can be built and rack ceiling, and suspended tiled ... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic operations

As an example, consider the insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when overhead there are beams with a plank ceiling hemmed to them. The climate is temperate; we will warm up mineral wool 50 mm thick.

1. Armed with a stapler, we attach to the ceiling polyethylene film. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of a dozen centimeters is required.
2. We fill the crate. Hemming the ceiling will become PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a bar 50x50.

We will fill it across the future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut in width. Most rolls are this size.

1. We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

1. Again armed with a stapler, we hem the crate from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the joints of the canvases with adhesive tape: greater tightness we will provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
2. Finally, the last stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We will not focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hemming panels to a wooden crate is a more than simple task.

Conclusion

Our goal is achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. Winter is not to be feared. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the victim was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!

Insulation of the ceiling and walls is an important component of home improvement. Every owner of a private house faces this question. Most of the heat comes out through the ceiling, so its insulation is very important. Modern market building materials represents today big choice various heaters. But, first of all, it is necessary to decide how to carry out thermal insulation.

There are two methods, indoor or outdoor. Both bring good results. It is worth choosing the one that is more convenient in specific situation. If we talk about the differences, then they differ in technology and materials.

The choice of heat insulator

To insulate the ceiling in a private house, it is important which material to choose. Vapor permeable heat insulator produce insulation from the inside. Vapor-proof insulation is perfect for outdoor work.

When purchasing material for insulation, you need to pay attention to the following qualities:

• Environmental friendliness and safety;
• Flexibility, the ability of the insulation to restore shape;
• Susceptibility to external influences or compressive strength;
• The density or weight of the heat insulator allows you to calculate the load on the attic floor;
• Fire resistance. In total, flammability classes 4 are the least combustible materials of class G1.

Another nuance when choosing a heater. It is worth considering what the ceilings in the house are made of. For a tree with wall boards, almost any insulation is suitable. But for concrete slabs mainly use heavy bulk materials or slab with good density. Suitable and dense heat insulators in rolls, mats. All this is important to know before proceeding with the insulation of the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house

What insulation is best for the ceiling? It depends on many factors. Their choice today is wide. It is worth dwelling on their qualities in more detail.

Expanded clay is light bulk material. It is made from special clay. As a result of processing, porous granules are obtained. Suitable for outdoor insulation. He non-flammable, retains heat well and does not absorb moisture. Also rodents do not start in it. Therefore, when the question arises of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, many people prefer expanded clay.

Fiberglass insulation is light in weight. They have all the properties necessary for thermal insulation. But they need a special coating that repels moisture. They are less resistant to its effects than others.

Mineral wool is not combustible, but moisture resistance is average. This is a fibrous insulation. Available in rolls or slabs. It has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has excellent wear resistance. Suitable for ceiling insulation in a private house from the inside. Its advantages also include:

However, mineral wool can cake and lose its properties. Glass wool is also referred to as fibrous insulation. It is quite strong and elastic, but subject to shrinkage.

Such modern heat insulators as polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, penofol are not inferior traditional materials. They are made from foamed polymer. They are can be produced with foil. This is additional water protection. The foil also increases the thermal insulation qualities of the material. When insulating the ceiling, the material can be a good choice.

Extruded polystyrene foam insulation is also lightweight and has low thermal conductivity. They have good mechanical strength and are affordable. They can have heat the attic, which is planned to be exploited. Among the shortcomings, low vapor permeability can be distinguished. Therefore, using them, you will have to take care of ventilation. They are not suitable for ceilings with a complex configuration.

Penoizol one more polymer material. He is durable. It has an almost unlimited service life.

Polyfoam is fireproof, weighs little and does not give a large load on the floors. Good thermal insulator. It does not absorb moisture, but does not let air through either. Additional ventilation will be required. Produced in the form of plates. It keeps its shape well. It can be combined with mineral wool.

Such a combination for insulating the ceiling has its pros and cons. The properties of both heaters do not allow warm air to go outside. However, the disadvantages include low level of fire safety polystyrene and the fact that rodents can start in it.

There are natural cork heaters. These materials are made from compressed cork chips and resin. They pass air well, but are combustible.

Ecowool is considered harmless to health and has low thermal conductivity. It is made from cellulose. To reduce flammability it is treated with boric acid or flame retardants. When using it, a waterproofing layer is not needed, because ecowool absorbs moisture. Suitable for all types of floors.

How to insulate ceilings in a private house from the outside

In a private house, the ceiling is insulated from the outside, that is, from the side of the attic, by laying a heat insulator on the ceiling or in its voids. This is eliminates the need to dismantle the ceiling and repair again. Probably, best option for a new or newly renovated home.

How to insulate ceilings from the outside, insulation of the ceiling with sheets of foam or polystyrene. Styrofoam is better to choose a thick one about 40 mm.

First, the attic must be cleared of debris. Then measurements are made. Insulation sheets are laid on the floor of the attic. Between themselves they are fastened with mounting foam. If you intend to use the room as an attic, for example, then you need concrete screed. A reinforcing metal mesh is placed on the insulation, and a screed solution is already poured onto it.

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool is also used for external insulation. After all the necessary measurements, the floor logs are mounted. Then vapor barrier layer. You can also use parchment. The insulation is laid loosely, but without gaps between the lags. The next step is flooring.

Expanded clay is also suitable for external insulation. If the floors are made of concrete, then the insulation process is as follows:

• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the plates. Expanded clay is poured on top. The layer should be about 10 cm;
• A reinforcing mesh is laid on it. Plywood is laid on top as protection;
• Next, a screed is poured onto the reinforcing mesh;
• When the screed is completely dry, you can mount the finish coating.

It is important to take expanded clay of various fractions. This will prevent shrinkage of the insulation.

Expanded clay insulation wooden house do in the interbeam space. A layer of waterproofing is placed between the supporting beams. As a rule, it is made of polyethylene. It needs to be fixed. In between expanded clay is poured between the beams. It is slightly tamped down. A fiberboard is placed on top of it. Now it's the turn for top coat.

To work with foam, a vapor barrier is also needed. Styrofoam boards fit tightly. It is important here that the elements of the heat insulator are hermetically connected at the joints. To do this, use mounting foam.

The combined option of insulation with foam plastic and expanded clay gives a good result. Styrofoam is placed down, and expanded clay is covered on top of its plates. I combine polystyrene and mineral wool. In this case, it is placed on foam boards.

A very old and proven method is attic insulation with sawdust. But they are flammable. Therefore, they are often mixed with cement.

Penoplex modern insulation. Durable and well suited for insulation concrete floors in a private house. First, the floor surface is leveled and a layer of vapor barrier is laid. Penoplex is attached to the surface with dowels. The joints are sealed with mounting foam.

Warming from the inside

Internal insulation of the ceiling in a private house is usually produced with mineral heat insulators. For example, basalt wool. From the inside, the insulation is hidden behind plasterboard suspended ceilings.

1. First, a metal frame is attached to the ceiling;
2. Insulation is glued between the profiles;
3. Drywall sheets are sewn onto the frame. Then they already do the finishing of the ceiling.

If mineral wool is chosen as a heater, then it is better to take glue for tiles. Mineral wool cannot be compressed; it loses its properties from this. When insulating with mineral wool in a false ceiling, a vapor barrier is not needed. This can lead to fungal growth.

Insulate the ceiling from the inside of the house and foam. Here it is important to take into account the density of the material. For internal insulation suitable density 15 kg/sq. m or 25 kg/sq. m. Styrofoam sheets are attached to the ceiling with glue. You can put plaster on them.

We insulate the walls from the inside

It is also important to insulate the walls in a private house. In principle, heat insulators use almost the same as for the ceiling.

• Foam polyethylene foil;
• Polyplex;
• Mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam is considered the most environmentally friendly heat insulator. Therefore, quite often they insulate the walls from the inside. But for warming with your own hands, it will not work. This requires special equipment.

Basalt wool and fiberglass are also used.

wall insulation technology

In addition to insulation, you will also need materials such as timber. If you intend to use mineral wool. Necessary and rails for fastening material. As a vapor barrier, you can use a plastic film or membrane. We also need material for finishing the walls.

Walls must be dry before work. Antiseptic treatment will not hurt to avoid fungus.

Warming with mineral wool implies the presence of a frame. Its elements are installed vertically. Insulation plates set tightly without leaving gaps. You can fix them with special dowels to the surface. A waterproofing is pulled over the insulation. At the joints, it can be glued with tape. Next comes already fine finish walls.

Expanded polystyrene requires leveling the working surface. After priming, it is treated with an antiseptic. When the walls are dry, you can put insulation. It is installed in a frameless way, attached to the glue. In the same way, they insulate with foam. After the heat insulator is glued, small seams are sealed with mounting foam. Wider gaps are insulated with strips of material. Then the finish coat is applied.

Warming is very important not only for saving energy resources. This procedure will make the house comfortable and cozy.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house

Any owner strives to create comfortable living in his home. To do this, it periodically monitors possible heat losses, as a result of which the room temperature may decrease and energy use increase. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by homeowners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and the heaters will not have to heat the environment.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
• External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work, if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

Modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the requirements of the technology.

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

• do not emit toxic substances;
• be resistant to moisture;
• have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of the heater meets technical requirements thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

• low degree of thermal conductivity;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• lack of flammability;
• ecological feature.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

• ability to absorb moisture;
• during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
• additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
• for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of wooden beam or profiles;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of interlayers of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents the basis in the innovative decoration of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities prevent the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure is not weighed down. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of improvised means: a construction knife, adhesive tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

• flexible surface means finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
• it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
• to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is known to many more as polystyrene. Easy-to-use material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, it fully justifies the costs and retains its qualities for a long time.

The advantages are:

• moisture resistance;
• good thermal conductivity;
• light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
• simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

• easy flammability;
• instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
• low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

• affordable price;
• thermal insulation qualities;
• resistance to ignition;
• easily fills hard-to-reach places;
• safe operation.

Disadvantages:

• lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
• low resistance to mechanical stress;
• the first 2-3 weeks after installation does not evaporate a large number of toxic substance;
• ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If stick technological process and make the right choice of material, the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

• mineral wool;
• metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
• hardware;
• vapor barrier film;
• staples;
• dowels with a wide hat;
• drywall.

Set of tools:

• perforator;
• roulette;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• scissors;
• construction knife.

Installation steps

• On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
• Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
• Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
• Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
• Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
• Using drywall sheets finish the ceiling.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

• foam sheets 40 mm thick;
• mounting foam;
• OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
• hardware.

Instruments:

• drill;
• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• metalwork knife;
• screwdriver.

Installation steps

• Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
• Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
• Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
• Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

• Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
• Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
• Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
• Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
• To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
• Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
• When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

Any area of ​​​​a private house, whether it be walls, floors or ceilings, must be properly insulated. Depending on the quality of the work performed, the cost of energy resources for heating will decrease or increase accordingly. Warming is carried out with accompanying insulating layers - a residential object will emit moisture, steam.

The following describes how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, selection criteria the best insulation and a detailed installation guide for home craftsmen - independent work will significantly save the family budget.

Why insulate the ceiling

The concept of heat loss at home is especially relevant for private facilities, in contrast to multi-apartment municipal housing. A separate house must be insulated from all sides, since there are no “neighbors” and there is no constant maintenance of an acceptable climate. If you insulate only the walls and floor, and at the same time ignore the ceiling, then the owners will not receive proper comfort, but astronomical resource bills - please. Why?

From heating radiators, warm air rises, mixing with cold air and the reverse process occurs. If the streams linger for a long time at the ceiling, heating it, then the time to reach comfortable temperature much more will be required, hence the increase in the amount of firewood, gas, electricity. Corresponding and costs.

The insulated ceiling, on the contrary, does not need heating, since the space of the room is reliably separated by insulating layers from the attic. Therefore, the temperature exchange will be faster. So, the importance of insulating the ceiling space is clear and not discussed.

How to insulate the ceiling qualitatively and inexpensively

The construction industry offered a lot of options for heaters. The price aspect should not be put at the forefront of the question - how to insulate the ceiling, because we are talking about our own comfort.

Let's analyze some of the materials traditionally used for ceiling insulation:

Mineral or basalt wool. Unlike its predecessor - glass wool - it is convenient to work with it. It does not prick, does not emit any odors. Its thickness is sufficient for one contour of insulation. Available in convenient forms - mats, rolls. For a private house, it has the main advantage of incombustibility - it does not even smolder. The price is perfectly acceptable.

However, this type of insulation has a serious drawback in the form of hygroscopicity and caking. Even a small amount of moisture that has got inside the insulation mat can expose large spaces, which makes the idea of ​​warming with wool lost.

If, nevertheless, the owners choose this option, they should reliably insulate, waterproof the roof and cover the wool with multi-layer protective layers, since the resulting condensate can form in a cold attic room, encountering warm flows from the insulated ceiling.

Expanded clay. Mineral building material is successful for insulation, however, it is worth knowing that in a cold region at least 50 mm of a layer is required, and given the additional insulation, the weight of the insulation will affect the load-bearing capacity of wooden floors. It is better to use a mineral for floor insulation.

sawdust and clay. In the old days they used just such materials, there were no others. However, they performed well. Parts of sawdust and dry crushed or powdered clay were mixed and poured into wooden ceiling boxes. There are some disadvantages of the method - sawdust attracts mice and absorbs moisture. Therefore, before backfilling, insulation work is carried out, the raw materials are dried or even calcined in the sun, mixed with slaked lime or carbide.

In addition to the biological threat, susceptibility to mold and mildew, sawdust is flammable. They are sprinkled with a layer of spent slag and reliably protect the boxes from direct proximity to the chimney - its hot bricks can make them smolder, and then ignite the entire mass. Many craftsmen use sawdust in combination with cement, however, as in the case of expanded clay, the layer turns out to be heavy - the use is impractical.

It is important to remember that the materials are not combustible, but smoldering and releasing dangerous gases into the atmosphere.

Sprayed materials - ecowool, expanded polystyrene. The first option is absolutely environmentally friendly, as it is cellulose. The second is an analogue of styrene plates. Self-spraying is possible, but expensive - the cylinders are not very capacious. It is better to order the service of professionals. The advantage of sprayed insulation in quality is that not a single centimeter of area will be missed. In addition, the materials are not combustible and have good adhesion to surfaces. Arranging sprayed insulation means completely eliminating cold bridges in the house.

But there is also a drawback - the impermeability of steam. You will have to create high-quality ventilation, otherwise the microclimate at home will become uncomfortable, and in some cases unsuitable for living. The consequences of condensate settling on the walls are known - mold, dampness.

Plaster insulation mixes. In private homes, they are not popular, as they require a large preparatory base. However, for non-wooden objects, such an application is advisable - the application of the plaster immediately takes on a decorative finish or becomes the base for another coating.

Cork. Decorative environmentally friendly material. Expensive. Wood, as you know, is a warm raw material, but, nevertheless, capricious - it burns, becomes moldy, and is a delicacy for the beetle. Warming can occur without hydro and vapor barrier mandatory for all materials, since the raw material itself has sufficient throughput. The decorative look will allow you to combine practicality with design.

The list is incomplete, however, it includes popular materials for insulation. All others are based on them. Prices vary, but you should not chase cheapness. It is better to consider the possibility of self-laying for each type - the savings on invited teams are significant.

Ways to insulate ceilings in a private house

There are only two of them - insulation of the ceiling from the outside and from the inside.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

Laying insulation from the side of the attic, House master leaves the height of the room unchanged, which, of course, will have a positive effect on the number of useful meters. In addition, it is always convenient to work from above rather than from below - pour expanded clay, tightly lay mats and slabs. However, this method of insulation always involves the mandatory protection of the roof, otherwise the occurrence of condensate from temperature changes is inevitable.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

Internal insulation allows you to extend the durability of the material - dryness, ventilation of space, absence of temperature changes. However, you will have to steal height meters.
It is logical to assume that it is best to use the first option to insulate the ceiling. In addition, then the attic becomes suitable for residential use. It is important to remember that the stacked cake must have good vapor barrier.

We insulate the ceiling of a frame house with our own hands

The principles of laying any insulation are the same. Let's consider the whole process using the example of using basalt wool according to the first method - from the outside.

What will be required:

• vapor barrier. This is a foil membrane. It is laid with the metallized side out.
• Waterproofing. In this capacity, PVC film or rolled rubber acts.
• Drywall. It is laid from the inside. It will become the base for the subsequent finishing.
• Acquired accordingly aluminum profiles and movable brackets– we must not forget about shrinkage processes.
• insulation. The selected mineral wool is purchased immediately in mats so that it is convenient to lay it.
• Edged board.

From tools: stapler, screwdriver, fasteners, circular saws or jigsaws. You will need a stepladder, even if the installation takes place from above - a rigid frame is attached from below.

Where to start with ceiling insulation

The work begins with an assessment of wooden floors, even if the house was built recently. Found foci of damage are destroyed, and then all the wood is impregnated with protective compounds - there will be no more such an opportunity.

frame for insulation

From below, an edged board is stuffed onto the ceiling beams to form boxes. You can not use unskinned croaker - this is bait for the beetle.

Ceiling vapor barrier

A steam membrane is laid over the board. It is fixed with a stapler, the joints will overlap. The seams must be taped with adhesive tape to exclude even the possibility of moisture ingress.

Sheathing the frame and laying insulation

Then brackets are installed, and a metal frame for drywall is fixed on them. The necessary communications are laid through it - electrical wires, lighting cartridges - and then the GKL space is sewn up. Internal work completed.

In boxes of beams and edged board insert cotton mats. It is important not to allow too tight entry or chatter.

Waterproofing

Attach waterproofing. You should also glue the seams and joints with construction tape.
Install floors. Usually this is a grooved board. If the attic space will be used for residential purposes, multilayer plywood is placed on the subfloor and decorated with a topcoat - linoleum, laminate. Even scraped boards are beautiful on their own.

That's actually the whole process. An easy, safe and, most importantly, effective way to reduce the amount of heat loss and create a comfortable stay for yourself and your household. The benefits of ceiling insulation can be calculated in advance - it will pleasantly surprise the owners of a private house.

27 December, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

No matter how much effort we make to insulate the walls and floor of the dwelling, a huge part of the loss of heat energy falls on upper part premises. Therefore, it's time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you the best way to insulate an attic beam ceiling in a wooden house, and I will also describe in detail the technology for laying heat-insulating material inside the house in the country. The article shows the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed from the inside, and the main insulation from the outside. But about everything in due time.

The choice of material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed from floor beams. If you study the advice of heating professionals, you can see that each of them offers different materials: expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, polyurethane foam, and so on.

But from the whole variety of heat-insulating materials for warming a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion, this is the best choice if you decide how to insulate the ceiling from the outside along the logs. In support of what has been said, I cite the most important technical characteristics of this material.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity of basalt wool is approximately 0.035 W / (m * K). Therefore, for effective thermal insulation, it is sufficient to use a layer 10 cm thick. That is, the insulation boards will just fit into the gaps between the support beams.
High vapor permeability	The vapor permeability coefficient of the described insulation with a density of 50 kg per m3 is 0.6 mg / (m * h * Pa), which is more than that of wood. Consequently, the thermal insulation layer will not prevent air infiltration through the walls, moisture will evaporate from the floor beams. This will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house, and on the integrity of the building envelope.
Low hygroscopicity	In direct contact with a liquid, the material absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of moisture. That is, if water gets on the ceiling (ceiling on the reverse side) due to a leaking roof, the liquid will not reduce the performance of the heat-shielding layer.
High fire safety	According to the current classification of building materials, basalt mats are classified as NG. The insulation does not ignite under the action of an open flame, does not contribute to the spread of fire and does not emit toxic smoke. This is very important for a dwelling built of wood.
High sound insulation	The open structure of mineral mats (in contrast to foam) contributes to a very effective absorption of sound waves of structural and air origin. When using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of the ceiling, the inhabitants of the upper and lower floors will not hear each other's conversation, and the people below will not suffer from the rumble of furniture moving upstairs and careless steps.
biological neutrality	The insulation has antiseptic properties; mold, fungus and other microorganisms do not form on its surface and inside. As a result, wooden floor beams will be reliably protected from rot, which will extend their service life.
Ease	The insulation is a porous material, therefore it is light in weight. The thermal insulation layer on the ceiling (even with additional hydro and vapor barrier membranes) will not exert a large load on the floor beams, load-bearing walls and foundation.
Ease of installation	All installation work basalt insulation are performed manually. To do this, you do not need compressors and other mechanisms (as is the case with PPU). In addition, its use eliminates the use of "wet" construction processes, so you can work even when negative temperature air.
Long service life	Basalt mats will retain their original technical characteristics for as long as the ceiling beams themselves. At the same time, the insulation does not shrink, forming islands of cold and reducing the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this best material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in frame or in log house outside.

For work, I will use basalt wool slabs manufactured by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces 1200 by 610 mm in size, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit back to back without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will put it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to put in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, other materials with tools will also be needed. I will list them in the next section.

Necessary tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film does not allow water vapor formed in the room as a result of human activity to penetrate into the insulation, causing the latter to become wet. It is better not to use impervious films, as all the benefits of breathable mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

1. waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulation layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulation cake due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

1. Plywood. With it, I will hem the floor beams from below, that is, glued veneer sheets will support the mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use a board, GKL, GVL, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (you can use moisture-resistant PSF, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emission).
2. Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in bottles, applied with a mounting gun. It is needed only in order to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, it is practically not necessary to use foam.
3. Wooden bars with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for mounting a counter-lattice from the outside of the ceiling, since a ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the decorative material on top to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
4. Grooved board. The attic above the ceiling in my case will be used as residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from a grooved board. If you have just an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
5. Fire and bioprotective impregnation for wood. This substance will need to process the floor beams and bars used for mounting the crate. Liquid will increase fire safety wooden structure, destroy microorganisms and protect the enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for the tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws, a stapler for fixing films and a saw for cutting plywood and foam. Everything else is the usual set of plumbing fixtures, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it's time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden dwelling.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house begins with the preparation of the ceiling, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (from bars with a section of 50 by 100 mm) installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I carry out the processing of load-bearing beams. Several important tasks need to be solved at once:
   • Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they must be cleaned of mold and mildew with sandpaper and a grinder. Damaged sections are cut out and replaced with new fragments, and I advise you to completely change the heavily worn beams for new ones. Otherwise, the life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

• Treat the beams with fire protection. To do this, the primer antiseptic composition of your choice is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, after which the ceiling beams are covered with it. It is best to work with a brush-brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into wooden surface(it should be well saturated).

1. I carry out the installation engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) these are three separate systems - ventilation, electricity and a chimney passage. For each there is small features:
   • I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with polyethylene foam cylinders or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the airflow.

• Electric wires in the ceiling of a wooden house (if you prefer hidden wiring) you need to carry out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and the further spread of fire in the event of a short circuit.

• The intersection of the chimney pipe and the ceiling of a wooden house must be carefully protected with non-combustible fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted in the ceiling. Then the inside of the box was covered with expanded clay, which excluded contact hot pipe with boards and plywood ceiling.

Having completed the preparation wooden poles ceiling, you can go down to the living rooms, as further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Works indoors

From the bottom of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide a reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (their installation procedure is described in the next section).

Therefore, the workflow will be as follows:

1. I fix a vapor barrier membrane on the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, after which I fix it to the bottom of the beams using a construction stapler and staples. It is not necessary to pull it strongly, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

• The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be fixed in such a way that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
• After processing the entire ceiling, the joints of the individual sheets must be glued with adhesive tape. The result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photo.

1. I install the bars of the counter-lattice. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case -), which will help to remove the moisture concentrated there.
   • The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It is better to do this outdoors and bring it inside after the protective composition is completely absorbed into the surface and dries.

• Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I fasten the bars to the supporting joists of the ceiling so that the parts are perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the bars will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation boards laid in the sphere.

• Between individual bars, as well as at the walls, gaps of 3-5 mm should be made, which are necessary to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the bars.

1. I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the characteristics of the subsequent decorative finish. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or rack products. The scheme for mounting plywood is as follows:
   • I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required dimensions in such a way that after fixing the counter-lattice on the bars, there is a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, the condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

• I fix the plywood on the bars of the crate. For this, black self-tapping screws are perfect, which are protected from corrosion. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed along the edge of the plywood sheets and in the middle, attracting the material to the supporting elements. There should be a distance of a few millimeters between plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After that, you can finish work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Works in the attic

It is much easier to work from the outside of the attic floor than from the inside. The fact is that in this case you do not have to come up with various tricks to fix the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

Detailed scheme work looks like this:

1. I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. It is done like this:
   • Basalt fiber slabs are cut to size. I have the distance between the lags exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will become a surprise without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to customize the dimensions, then for this I recommend using a file with fine teeth or a sharp stationery knife with interchangeable blades.

• The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and bars of a counter-lattice fixed on the lower plane of the ceiling. It is necessary to fit the heat-insulating mats to each other as tightly as possible so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the gaps are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

• Joints between mineral wool boards can be filled with polyurethane foam adhesive. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which excludes unproductive losses of thermal energy.

1. Installing a waterproofing membrane. It is necessary to use a special polymer film, and not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other "breathable" materials. The scheme is as follows:
   • The membrane is rolled out over the insulation in such a way that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap 10 cm wide.

• After that, the film is fixed on wooden details using staples and a construction stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it does not tear in winter. But there is no need to leave a lot of slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
• The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed with adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
• The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

1. I fasten the bars of the counter-lattice to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay on top decorative material(in my case, a tongue-and-groove floorboard in the attic). It is done like this:
   • Wooden beams with a section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams over the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can fix the crate with self-tapping screws.
   • To avoid warping of the coating, I recommend not to install the bars close to the walls of the attic and to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
2. I lay a tongue-and-groove board on top. I took this material

On this, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways to insulate. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are set out in the video in this article. And you can read about how to insulate a wooden ceiling from the inside (if there is no access to it from the attic), you can read in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in the material in the comments below.

In the conditions of the Russian winter, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is far from the last issue. To save on heating costs, it is important to minimize the heat loss that occurs through all building envelopes of the house - windows, walls, doors, ceiling. Homeowners try to install high-quality windows and doors, they insulate the walls, but they often forget about the ceiling. Meanwhile, up to 20% of heat can escape through this enclosing structure!

Everyone who remembers school lessons physicists know that warm air, according to natural laws, rises, and then it comes into contact with the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling. As a result, condensation forms, that is, the humidity of the air in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the household, because dampness can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the issue of insulation should be puzzled by every owner of a private house.

General rules for insulation

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When looking for materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a private house, several effective solutions are possible:

• Expanded clay. This is a loose insulation, a lightweight, absolutely non-combustible material that is made on the basis of clay. The material is environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, has good thermal insulation characteristics, rodents and pests do not start in it.
• Mineral wool. This is perhaps the most popular option for insulation, has excellent thermal insulation qualities. The disadvantages include hygroscopicity, this material should be carefully protected from moisture.
• Ecowool. Cellulose-based material, environmentally friendly, has excellent thermal insulation properties.
• Styrofoam. Lightweight polymer material. Fireproof, easy to use, not afraid of moisture.
• Penoizol. This is a porous polymer material for insulation with an unlimited service life.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in the house

The choice of material is also connected with the method that will be used for insulation. Warming can be done in two ways:

• From inside the room.
• From the side of the attic.

It should be noted that both methods are able to provide a decent level of insulation, so you need to choose the one that will be more convenient to perform.

Methods differ in technology and types of materials used. In order not to make a mistake when answering the question, how to insulate the ceiling is better , it is worth remembering an immutable rule: if insulation is made from the inside, then a vapor-permeable insulation should be chosen. In the event that the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic or outside the private house, then a material with vapor-tight properties should be purchased.

How to perform insulation from the inside of the room?

As a rule, ceiling insulation from the inside of the room is combined with the construction of suspended or stretch ceilings. In this case, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling plate and the installed coating.

When insulating the ceiling of the house from the inside of the room, most homeowners choose mineral insulation, which is available in the form of rolls or mats.

• If you plan to arrange it in the house, then first they assemble a frame from a metal profile for fixing drywall (or other material that is planned to sheathe the ceiling). Then, layers of insulation are glued in the space between the profiles.

Advice! It is convenient to use tile adhesive for sticking mineral insulation, it sets quickly and holds the material well.

• In the event that they are installed, the frame will have to be assembled specifically for laying the insulation. It is convenient to do this from a bar.

Advice! Under no circumstances should mineral wool be compacted during installation, since its heat-insulating properties depend on the presence of air gaps between the fibers.

• A separate issue is the installation of lamps. The fact is that even modern lamps heat up a little during operation, and the presence of insulation on the ceiling does not allow heat to escape freely. As a result, the lamps burn out quickly. Therefore, you should either cut out the insulation in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lamp, or leave an air gap between the insulation layer and the ceiling sheathing material. The first method reduces the effectiveness of insulation, and the second requires a significant lowering of the ceiling level.

Advice! There is another way to solve the problem with lamps - do not use recessed ones, but install the most ordinary chandeliers and sconces.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

Ceiling insulation from the attic

This option is the most efficient. Consider how you can insulate the ceiling from the outside of the room? Almost any type of insulation is perfect here. However, if it is decided to use mineral wool, then a layer of vapor barrier film should be laid in front of it.

When using layers of mineral wool or foam, the material is placed in the gaps between the timber frame bars. When using polystyrene, the joints should be sealed with mounting foam.

If the attic is planned to be used, then a floor should be made on top of the laid insulation by performing a screed or arranging the floor on logs.

findings

So, taking up the insulation of the ceiling in a private house with your own hands , First of all, you should decide which side of the ceiling will be insulated. Then you can choose a heater from the options above.

In cold climates, it is very important to insulate your home well. Usually, attention is paid to the floor, walls, windows, but not the ceiling - and after all, up to 15% of heat can escape through it.

How to choose a material for insulation

Often the question arises as to how to insulate the ceiling of the house. The choice of material depends, first of all, on the climate of the region. The most common insulation is mineral wool, which has excellent thermal insulation properties. If the outdoor temperature does not fall below -35 degrees, then this material will be the best choice.

Mineral wool is made (see photo) from artificial fibers of mineral origin. Limestone, basalt, dolomite, diabase are used for its production. Most quality insulation obtained in the event that only rocks are used in the manufacturing process. The advantages of mineral wool include fire resistance, durability, low hygroscopicity.

Ecowool - cellulose insulation, installed using special equipment. The composition of the material includes thin wood fibers formed during the processing of waste paper, and special antiseptics. Ecowool has only been used for a couple of decades, but thanks to its ability to fill empty space, it is becoming increasingly popular. Its disadvantages include the impossibility of independent use - for work it is necessary to call specialists, as well as a significant amount of dust in case of dry installation. The advantages of the material are excellent thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness and affordable price.

When choosing how to insulate the ceiling of a house, one should not forget about other widespread heaters - foam plastic, penoizol (in more detail: "").

Styrofoam is obtained by creating foam from different types of plastics. It contains a large amount of air, making it a lightweight material that is convenient for installation and transportation. It has excellent heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. In addition, it is convenient to work with foam - it is easily cut and can be attached to any surface.

Penoizol is a liquid foam, the advantage of which is its low price. It also fills any spaces, thereby reliably protecting the home from the cold. But for its use it is necessary to have special equipment, so you have to trust specialists to work with this material. Penoizol is recommended to be used for warming rooms of a large area.

As for how you can insulate the ceiling in cold regions, where the temperature in winter can be less than -35 degrees, then this is expanded clay. It is made of clay by firing, is resistant to low temperatures and well protects against heat loss.

Tools for the job

To carry out work on the insulation of a small house (for example, a summer house), you will need the following tools:

• metalwork knife;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• a hammer.

If the insulation of a private house, cottage will be carried out, then it is better to purchase such power tools:

You also need to think about fasteners. The most affordable and easy to use are ordinary nails, but if you need to insulate the ceiling of a large area, it will be more convenient to use self-tapping screws or screws. Using a screwdriver or an electric drill to tighten them, you can save time and effort.

During operation, you will also need mounting foam and double sided tape. The joints between the insulation plates and other cavities are filled with foam, which rapidly increases in volume.

To fix the waterproofing layer, wooden slats are used. It is recommended to prepare them in advance. Their size should be 10x20 (25) millimeters. After the ceiling is insulated, the floor is usually laid in the attic. The simplest flooring is made from boards 120-150 centimeters long and 25-30 centimeters wide. If the attic will be used as a living space, then more expensive coverage can be made.

How to insulate the ceiling in the house, detailed video:

Work process

Having chosen the best way to insulate the ceiling and having prepared everything you need, they begin to create thermal insulation.

Mineral wool can be replaced with ecowool, and polystyrene can be replaced with penoizol. But in this case, you will have to involve specialists in the work. It is difficult to say what is better to insulate the ceiling in the country - it depends on the design features of the ceiling, financial capabilities and the required degree of thermal insulation.

Today, even in small sheds and seasonal country houses has electrical and gas equipment, which generates heat, making our life more comfortable. In those buildings that are intended for temporary use, they are insulated with relatively inexpensive material.

AT residential buildings completely different story. Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof is done so that the heat does not leave the living quarters.

The choice of roof begins with how the future building will be used and what it is intended for.

This is interesting: in cottages or country houses, both cold and warm roofs can be used at the same time.

A warm roof is used to insulate the ceiling in a private house. This is a design that produces complete insulation of slopes. If the house is heated daily, then the heat will not leave this roof, due to the slopes. But it is worth remembering that this type is quite expensive.

The cold type of roof is structured in a completely different way. The standard scheme for laying materials occurs according to the scheme:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• roof.

This design is done on buildings where people will not live. The advantage of this roof is that it is light in weight and quite inexpensive. With cold roof you can insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands without special work. Therefore, this type is considered as the most convenient and cheap way organization of a roof for an unheated building.

This is interesting: if there is no heating in the attic, then convection occurs, which gradually cools the incoming air from the premises, and prevents the slopes from icing.

What are the advantages of insulating the ceiling under the roof

To know how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof, it is important to consider all its positive aspects:

• additional soundproofing;
• helps to establish the constancy of the climate of the room, since it does not allow warm air to enter in the summer;
• in winter, will not allow air to escape from the house.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house is very difficult on its own, so it is better to hire specialists for this purpose.

Before you build your house, you need to know for sure that the better the house is insulated, the less you will have to spend on heating equipment. This will greatly enrich your budget.

Installation is carried out using two methods:

• from the side of the floor below;
• from the side of the attic.

Best and effective insulation the ceiling from the inside in a private house is carried out in the second way, since usually the ceiling structure is made of wood, which already has thermal insulation.

The specifics of insulation from the side of the lower floor

Warming in this way is carried out when:

• no access to the attic;
• there is a remodeling of houses with existing attics.

What is the installation:

• creating a frame from wooden beams or metals;
• tiled insulated material;
• sheathing drywall.

The disadvantage of this method of insulation is a decrease in the space of the room, as well as a large expenditure of time and effort.

This is interesting: in order to eliminate problems with heat loss with a cold roof, it is necessary to insulate all openings.

Modern materials and their characteristics

To date, there are a large number of heaters for wooden country houses and cottages. What is the best way to insulate the ceiling and not miscalculate with quality? What characteristics should the right materials meet:

• high thermal conductivity;
• increased resistance to moisture;
• durability;
• environmental Safety;
• degree of combustibility.

The most common heaters include:

• expanded clay;
• stale sawdust;
• stone wool;
• cellulose ecowool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane.

What heaters are more suitable for a wooden house

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in the private sector requires special attention. The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house can be answered quite simply: you just need to choose right material for warming. To choose the material and the method of its installation, it is necessary to take into account the type of overlap. Insulation can be concrete or wood. The first is carried out with the help of plates and filled with insulation, and for the second, materials of a rolled or bulk type are needed.

What natural heaters are used today:

• sawdust;
• seaweed;
• reeds;
• clay;
• coniferous;
• hay;
• old fallen leaves;
• straw.

This is interesting: natural insulation is short-lived, because it can rot.
Insulation with sawdust is effective with the right thickness. Sometimes, as a heater, you can use pellets - sawdust in the form of granules. To reduce the degree of combustibility of sawdust, they can be combined with flame retardants.

The method of forming thermal insulation with sawdust

The meaning of such insulation is to mask the existing wooden floor cracks. This is done with liquid clay. Sand can be sprinkled on top to seal cracks. In order to prevent damage to the thermal insulation by small rodents, it is necessary to sprinkle carbide with slaked lime. The minimum thickness is about 15-20 cm.

To make the sawdust more fire resistant, it is necessary to treat it with slag, especially in the chimney sections. Nothing needs to be laid on top. If necessary, you can put boards. Another way to insulate is to carry out protective procedures to prevent moisture from entering. You can walk on the surface of the clay. Mix sawdust with cement as follows:

• sawdust (10 parts);
• cement (2 parts);
• water (1.5 parts).

In order for the sawdust and cement to firmly converge, they need to get wet properly. This mixture should be spread over the entire floor of the attic surface with a thickness of at least 20 cm.

Preparing to insulate the ceiling

You can insulate the ceiling of a private house with sawdust in another way - mixing them with clay. Just keep in mind that the mixture is not completely liquid. Otherwise, there will be leakage deep into the sawdust.

Clay has long been used as a heater, but for lighter and better durability, a combination of sawdust and clay is used:

• Water is poured into the barrel and clay is poured in the amount of 3-4 buckets.
• After thorough mixing, add sawdust, water and pour everything into a concrete mixer.

The result should be a medium-density solution, which you need to spread on the ceiling and wait until everything dries. If cracks appear, they must be smeared with clay and a vapor barrier film must be stretched.

Expanded clay is a natural non-combustible, non-toxic material that forms a mound of different density. The strongest layer is made from the smallest particles (0.4 - 1m).

This is interesting: expanded clay is hypoallergenic and has durability and excellent thermal qualities. From the side of the lower floor, it is possible to insulate only with mineral wool.

When using expanded clay, it is necessary to correctly calculate its weight, because if they insulate wooden floors, then there is a risk that the flooring will fail. It is recommended to use this type of insulation only on concrete structures. For preparation, it is necessary to clean the concrete and cover with a vapor barrier film.

This is interesting: the film must be laid with an overlap so that there are no gaps and glue the joints with adhesive tape.

Next, we knead the clay and spread it onto a layer of film. And expanded clay is already placed on top. For better thermal insulation, both small and large granules should be used. Next, a screed is made, which consists of a sand-cement mixture with a thickness of at least 50 mm thick consistency. The advantages of such a heater are safety and environmental friendliness.

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common type of insulation. They are installing the attic. In the manufacture of mineral wool, various raw materials are used:

• sand;
• cullet;
• blast-furnace slags;
• basalt rocks.

Today in building stores there is a wide selection of insulation:

• slag;
• basalt wool;
• glass wool.

The negative side of mineral wool is that it is unhealthy, because formaldehyde resins are emitted.

Slag insulation

This type of insulation is made from blast furnace slag. Slag wool is very brittle and can quickly get wet, which can call into question its heat-insulating characteristics. It is at this point that acidity begins to rise. Therefore, they are not recommended to insulate a country house. The only advantage is that it is inexpensive.

Glass wool is made from molten glass mass. As an extension of the range, there may be another form of glass wool - mat. When installing glass wool, you need to stock up on protective equipment: a suit, gloves, goggles and a respirator. Most often it is used for insulation. attic floors. And also it can be combined with other types of insulation.

Basalt wool insulation

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt raw materials. It is used for thermal insulation of the ceiling with inside, since they are very dense.

Often, manufacturers add a foil layer to basalt wool. This cover helps keep you warm. Insulation is allowed from the side of the attic and from the side of the lower floor.

This manufacturer produces mineral wool in several forms:

• rigid boards;
• rolls.

To insulate concrete floors, it is necessary to level the plane and cover it with a film coating and install the slabs. Fiberglass and minerals are used as raw materials. Next, the surface is made of plywood or wooden boards and you need to remember about the screed of the plates.

How to insulate wooden floors with URSA wool:

• Add vapor barrier material between the beams.
• The overlay of the film should be overlapped, and the resulting joints should be fastened with adhesive tape.

Important: the overlap on the walls should be 150-250 mm.

Insulation with reeds and algae

Reed mats will be a good material for thermal insulation. You can fasten the material with wire or twine. It is important that the seams are spaced apart. It is best to apply mats in 2 layers - this will completely eliminate the cold.

Seaweed is an environmentally friendly insulation material and has a number of advantages:

• hypoallergenicity;
• beneficial properties of algae;
• will not be damaged by small rodents;
• does not smoke and does not burn;
• not afraid of attack by insects;
• no need to lay a vapor barrier layer;
• laying is done directly on the floor.

Ecowool insulation

In another way, ecowool is called cellulose insulation. What are the advantages of a cellulose product:

• microorganisms do not appear on it, and mold does not appear;
• can be laid in any thickness;
• durability;
• environmentally friendly material;
• during installation, a sealed coating is formed;
• additional sealing is possible;
• reduced percentage of flammability;
• the material breathes, so moisture is not retained.

Installation of ecowool can be carried out in two ways:

• The "dry" method consists in scattering the insulation with tamping. In this case, you can not lay the film.
• The “wet” method is done with special equipment that glues the cellulose to the surface of the floors with glue.

Ecowool is a natural insulation that is absolutely safe.

This type of insulation is much stronger than standard foam and is necessary for insulation on a concrete floor in an attic. However, if there are wooden floors in a private house, then it is better to refuse penoplex. The disadvantage is that moisture can accumulate there, which can be the initiators of mold. The surface must be level before installation. Next, foam slabs are laid, which are placed apart.

How to insulate concrete floors

To begin with, the joints formed between the plates must be treated with mounting foam. When all joints are completely dry, a sand-cement screed of a sufficiently thick consistency is carried out. The thickness of the layer must be at least 50 mm. After the solution becomes solid, it turns out hard surface floors on the second floor or attic.

findings

All heaters and technologies for their installation, which were discussed in this article, are the most popular methods for thermal insulation. However, the list of heaters does not end there. In hardware stores there is a very wide selection of heaters for country houses.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation of the ceiling, it is important to know all the nuances of the future building. The main thing to remember is that for wooden partitions sealed materials such as penofol and penoplex will not be suitable. They are best used for concrete floors of houses.

For wooden houses best to use natural materials which allow air to pass through and do not retain moisture. For these purposes, it is necessary to use sawdust, algae, ecological cotton wool and reed mats. These insulation materials are environmentally friendly and absolutely do not harm human health.

Insufficient insulation of ceilings and attics, through which heat is actively leaving the room, is called by professionals one of the most popular mistakes of self-taught builders. The same reason underlies the high humidity in the room. The condensate formed in the zone of contact of warm air with the cold plane of the ceiling changes the microclimate of the whole house. Stuffiness, dampness of the walls and even the appearance of mold are the consequences of an illiterate approach to insulation along with the problem of rapid cooling of the air in the room. High-quality insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is one of the components of a comfortable microclimate and rational expenditure of funds for heating a country house, city cottage or summer house.

Building materials stores offer heaters in assortment. Main types:

• mineral wool, produced in the versions of glass wool, slag wool and stone wool;
• rolled foil polyethylene foam;
• foam boards of various thicknesses;
• polyplex or polystyrene, also available in the form of plates;
• loose expanded clay.

Of the methods used less and less, but having the right to exist, sawdust can be noted. The refusal of professionals from this method, until recently popular, will be explained. To protect against rodents and moisture, the material must first be carefully prepared, mixing with clay and lime, moisturizing, drying, loosening. Against the background of these troubles, the advantage in the form of cheapness fades, inclining the master to choose a less whimsical foam or polyplex.

The combination of materials is allowed: the toxicity of mineral wool makes you think about an additional barrier from the gases it emits. In this capacity, dense, but thin layer polyethylene foam based on foil.

Popular materials for ceiling insulation: mineral wool, expanded clay, sawdust and foam

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is considered an economical insulation. The main forms of release are mats from 10 cm thick and rolls from 5 cm thick.

It is used for both external and internal insulation, but has significant limitations for use. Without additional waterproofing, the use of this material in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. Saturated with water, mineral wool does not perform the main heat-shielding functions. Warming the ceiling in the bathroom from the inside with mineral wool mats will have to be carried out in several stages, at the first fixing the base material, and then covering it with film, glassine or foil.

However, waterproofing in such rooms will also be required for other types of materials if the main floor is made of wood. This precaution will prevent the formation of condensate directly on the supporting structures and wood paneling.

Care must be taken when working with any type of mineral wool. Toxic and allergenic material should be placed in gloves and a tight suit, contact with the skin is not allowed. Be sure to use a protective mask or respirator, goggles. The advantage that distinguishes mineral wool from other popular heaters is resistance to fire and rodent activity, which is an important advantage in the private sector.

When working with mineral wool, safety precautions must be observed

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

Styrofoam is more environmentally friendly and easier to use. Waterproofing with this insulation technique is not required, and the small thickness allows the use of this material in rooms with low ceilings. Warming the basement ceiling from the inside with foam boards will take only a few hours. The plates are easy to cut, and they can be fastened with glue without building a crate.

Polystyrene is a direct relative of polystyrene, a denser and less loose material. The price of such a heater is slightly higher than the rest, but its advantages are difficult to overestimate. Zero moisture absorption rates allow it to be used in any type of premises, without worrying about waterproofing. The thickness of extruded polystyrene sheets is 1-10 cm.

Such a large assortment allows the use of polyplex for insulation of floors, walls, ceilings, and external communications. Manufacturers, as a rule, provide ease of installation by pre-cutting the risk along the edges of the plates. This makes it possible to fix the material without gaps, providing maximum insulation.

When insulated from the inside, the polyplex is attached to the supporting structures or between them.

The surface of polystyrene boards is quite smooth. Insulation of the ceiling with expanded polystyrene from the inside allows you to immediately start finishing, simply by filling the surface.

Insulation works

Additional heat, steam or waterproofing is required for ceilings separating rooms of different types. In a multi-storey building, overlap between residential tiers is rarely required. An exception is hollow blocks with open voids. The type of roof of the building determines the optimal method of insulation. Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is suitable both for the upper floors of buildings with flat roof, and for rooms not adjacent to it, but requiring additional thermal insulation.

Gable roof first of all, it is insulated from the inside, but the ceiling between the cold attic and residential floors also needs a heat-insulating layer. The main stages of work on insulation are similar, regardless of the type of material chosen.

Waterproofing is fixed with a reflector inside the room and glued with adhesive tape

From the attic

For insulation by this method, any of the heaters, even loose ones, is suitable. The only condition for full-fledged and long-term operation is the installation of bridges that do not allow the material to be compressed. Mineral wool for external use by craftsmen is not recommended due to the high risk of dampness.

1. The attic floor is freed from furniture and other items.
2. A vapor barrier is laid on the floor with allowances for the walls.
3. If necessary, a crate is mounted, which defines the space between the ceiling and the attic floor. It should be at least 0.5 cm more than the thickness of the insulation.
4. The space between the beams or grating is covered with vapor barriers and closed or filled with insulation. Basalt or expanded clay is poured with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. Sheet or roll insulation is laid close to the beams, if possible without gaps between them and the sheets themselves.
5. The vapor barrier is again laid on top. A film or foil that prevents dampness of the insulation can be connected with ordinary adhesive tape.
6. The floor is covered with a gap from the insulation.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

indoors

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a particular case depends on the type of material chosen. Styrofoam does not require mandatory installation of the crate, as it adheres perfectly to glue and mastic. The strength of other technologies is provided by a suspended structure. For wet rooms, this should be a metal profile, in the rest you can get by with a wooden one. It will not be possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside without subsequent decorative finishing.

1. The profile is mounted taking into account the dimensions of the insulation.
2. Glassine or film is used as a waterproofing agent.
3. The insulation is installed without gaps.
4. The second layer of waterproofing is also hermetically sealed. When using foil material, it is laid with a reflector inside the room.
5. The grating that fixes the insulation is also used as a support for decorative ceiling trim.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside with mineral wool

Warming is a painstaking and responsible work, the quality of which will long years depend on the atmosphere in the house. Studying instructions and recommendations is the key to success. In case of doubt about own forces it is better to entrust these works to a professional team.

Video: ceiling insulation with polystyrene foam