Do I need to spud a rose in the summer. Winter shelter of roses

How to prepare roses for winter? For most cultivars of roses, temperatures below -7 ° C are considered critical, so we cover roses for the winter. What determines how successfully roses overwinter? Firstly, from the winter hardiness of a particular variety, it can be different within the same garden group. Secondly, on the state of the plant and its readiness for winter. Thirdly, from weather conditions. And, finally, from the ways of shelter. It is clear that not all of these factors are subject to human control. Therefore, flower growers should direct their main efforts to properly prepare for winter and cover the plant in a suitable way.

How to prepare roses for winter

We cannot influence the weather, but we can prepare the roses as much as possible for the upcoming winter trials. There are fairly simple agricultural practices that make rose shoots ripen better.

1. Feeding roses in autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. As you know, nitrogen promotes the formation of a vegetative mass and delays the growth period. Therefore, from the second half of summer, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is excluded. In August and early autumn, roses are fed only with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, which stop growth, promote the maturation of wood and increase plant resistance to cold.

2. Pinching growing shoots in autumn. Another effective technique is pinching growing shoots in early autumn. Due to the removal of the growth point, the growth of the shoot in length stops, and useful material deposited in the kidneys and tissues.

3. Stop watering. Watering and loosening are also reduced to a minimum, and faded flowers are not cut off - for the same reason, so as not to stimulate further growth of shoots.

4. Removal of leaves and unripened shoots. In October, the leaves are gradually cut off, first on the lower, and then on the remaining branches, removing unripened shoots. The plant is deprived of natural respiration and the ability to feed through the leaves and is forced to prepare for winter.

5. Timely control of pests and diseases of roses. The stability of roses, as we have already said, largely depends on their condition at the time of the onset of frost. It is clear that a strong, healthy and hardened plant will better endure both sudden changes in temperature and cold. Rose bushes, which had good healthy foliage (not affected by insects and diseases) in summer and early autumn, accumulate a large supply of carbohydrates, and this contributes to their successful wintering.

6. Moderate pruning of roses. Excessive cutting of flowers with long leafy shoots weakens plants.

7. sunny place landing. Roses growing in the shade overwinter worse, because with a lack of lighting, they accumulate less carbohydrates. A slight decrease in temperature (slightly above 0°C) in mid-autumn, on the contrary, contributes to their accumulation.

Shelter of roses for the winter

Sheltering roses for the winter does not happen overnight. Before shelter, you need to have time to spud roses in two stages. At the same time, you should not rush so that the plants have time to go through all the biological processes of preparing for winter. Depending on the conditions in each particular region, choose suitable materials and methods of shelter, determine optimal timing. at the same time, it also has its own characteristics when sheltering climbing, stem, bush, miniature, hybrid tea and other types and groups of roses.

Materials and methods of sheltering roses for the winter

1. Snow to cover roses for the winter. The main covering material is snow, it is he who most reliably protects roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage - serves only to detain him. At 25-30°C frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in the case when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter, and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter without any additional shelter.

2. Spruce branches for sheltering roses for the winter. One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.

3. Air-dry method of sheltering roses for the winter. More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C.

This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring. With air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be periodically ventilated.

Terms of shelter of roses for the winter

With further cooling (-2-8°C), the cells in the tissues of the plant are dehydrated, and carbohydrates are converted into sugars and fats - substances that protect plants from frost. That's why you can't cover roses too early - plants must go through all the natural processes, that is, finish growth in a timely manner and go into a dormant state.

But, unfortunately, hardening is a reversible process. Acquired resistance to frost may be lost again if, after a significant drop in temperature, a long warm and humid autumn suddenly sets in. Roses will start to grow and use up the accumulated reserves of carbohydrates, and if frosts hit sharply after that, it will be difficult for plants to survive such drops.

Pruning roses for the winter

Target autumn pruning- prepare the bush for shelter. Shoots of hybrid tea, floribunda, polyanthus, miniature roses cut to half their length. Re-blooming shrub roses, climbing large-flowered growing season can reach a height of 1.5 m or more. At the end of October, they are cut by a third. Climbing small-flowered roses do not prune, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growth point.

If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. under cover high humidity can cause rotting not only of the leaves, but also of the shoots. Leaves rotted over the winter become disease spreaders.

To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and the plants should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Unripe, diseased and weak shoots will not tolerate low temperatures and can cause the death of the whole plant. They are removed to the ground.

Pruning roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)

For information on how to properly prune hybrid tea roses for the winter in the Moscow region, and which roses are not pruned, see the video. In October, it's time to prune roses for the winter. Pruning dates are suitable 1.5-2 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. In pruning hybrid tea and ground cover roses have their own characteristics. Pruning of large shoots, plantings of the current year is different.

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

Hilling - best view root system protection. But, attention, the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but they are sprinkled (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.

1. When to spud roses for the winter. With hilling roses for the winter, as well as with shelter, you should also not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From mid-October, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect the plants from unexpected early frosts, and they are finally spudded before the onset of constant cold weather. It is better to cover and spud roses in dry weather.

2. How to spud roses for the winter. It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand. They are very moisture-intensive, and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.

3. How to spud roses for the winter. Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. shoots climbing roses you need to bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground. Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. hybrid tea roses and floribunda as a result, they are almost completely covered with earth. At spray roses(after they were bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots. In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. When the ground is slightly frozen (in middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), roses cover completely.

Shelter of roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)

For information on how to cover roses for the winter in where there are cold snowless winters with freezing rain, look at the grower and collector rare plants. Roses cover gradually in several stages. First, in October (from about the second decade), a frame is built from boards and beams. Roses are pruned and spud. If the kidneys of the next year are visible, then an oblique cut is made above the kidney, retreating 2 mm. Climbing roses first try to put under cover. Only in the event that the rose does not bend, it is cut off. Open sections are not only a source of infection, but also a gateway to frost and cold, so they are covered with artificial bark.

Until the final shelter, the frame is covered from the top with a flexible sheet of plywood or similar material from the rain. Such a frame with a "roof" is kept until the onset of stable cold weather, when night and day temperatures fall below 5 ° C of frost. During short-term frosts, roses can be temporarily covered with a non-woven fabric, and then opened again when it gets warmer so that the roses harden.

When the cold comes, the roses are covered under the frame. Easy to use cutouts nonwoven fabric with a density of at least 60 g/m². Cardboard is laid on top of the non-woven - it protects well from the wind and retains heat inside the shelter. The steps are repeated: 2 layers of non-woven fabric are laid on cardboard, cardboard again on top. The final shelter is a film. The film protects against freezing rains, which are not uncommon in winter in the Moscow region. Such a shelter has proven itself in cold, snowless winters. It is important to open roses on time and correctly after winter shelter.

Shelter of a standard rose for the winter

You need to take care of shelter even when they land. That is, immediately determine in which direction they can be bent so that the stem does not lie, for example, on the track. In order not to break the trunk, the fold at its base should be on the side opposite to the slope. It is impossible to lay the crown of the bole below the soil level, since water will accumulate in the lowland during thaws or in spring, the shoots will get wet and rot.

Stages of sheltering a standard rose for the winter:

• at the stem, the crown is pre-cut (in accordance with its belonging to the garden group);
• the plant is dug up on one side, bent to the ground and the root is spudded, if necessary, pinned;
• spruce branches are laid under the crown of the stem or bedding is made of coarse-grained sand;
• another layer of spruce branches is laid on top, fixing it with a film or non-woven material;
• for greater reliability, you can lightly sprinkle with earth on top.

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Any gardener has his own autumn processing algorithm based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

• foliage removal;
• hilling bushes;
• shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

• increases resistance to frost;
• provides access sunlight to stems;
• ventilates the crown;
• encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
• stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before the winter preparation of the plant:

• collect fallen leaves from the ground;
• carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
• try not to hurt the stem itself;
• stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

1. Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
2. Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
3. If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

• 3 year olds or older;
• with a large number side branches;
• covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

1. Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
2. Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
3. floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.

Preparing roses for shelter

Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.

! Hilling the bushes is a must!

Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.

Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing in late autumn should be avoided.

This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in the event of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.

! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..

The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.

! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.

Proper pruning of roses

Roses are pruned in autumn to create better conditions overwintering, just before shelter.

In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).

It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:

• hybrid tea roses cut in half;
• polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
• Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
• In climbing roses, only unripened tops and wen are cut off. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (older three years). Before the onset of stable frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Adult plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.

Shelter of spray roses

After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5 percent iron vitriol or .

Several ways to shelter roses in winter

Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".

More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.

The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.

! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.

It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” with plastic wrap on top. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.

! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.

The first way to protect roses

On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".

The second way to protect roses

As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.

! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.

The third way to hide roses

Spruce branches are used, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.

The fourth way to protect roses

Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.

Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.

The fifth way to shelter roses

Another air-dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.

Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill up the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.

In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from wetting and rotting of shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.

The sixth way to shelter roses

In mild winters, such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. A simple and reliable way to hide. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.

Shelter of roses in tubs

Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.

If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.

Shelter of standard roses

Preparing for winter standard roses requires special effort. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.

The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the trunk. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves

! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.

Shelter of climbing roses

Curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.

In regions with relatively mild winter climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.

There are currently many varieties climbing roses they don’t even insulate for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but it is necessary to spud the root system up to 20-25 cm.

Spring removal of shelters

In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.

Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.

• Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
• When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
• After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
• With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
• Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
• By the end April - early May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
• With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
• With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
• With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
• Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the former will give abundant flowering, and a new powerful replacement shoot will develop from the lower bud of a short shoot - the basis of next year's flowering.
• Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.

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Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

• the material should not be moisture-intensive;
• the material should not cake and compact;
• the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root collar rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

• tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
• loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are ongoing discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. Requires additional building air-dry shelter above the bush.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system more sensitive to frost than roses grafted onto hardy rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated year after year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.

TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER

Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.

Behind last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.

Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, for small sub-zero temperatures roses are hardening.

Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!

Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).

Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?

Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.

Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.

If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems with garden pitch.

You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.

Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.

But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.

Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).

HOW TO COVER ROSES?

Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.

Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.

If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.

So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.

To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).

Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.

Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.

WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?

1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.

Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.

2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.

3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.

4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.

IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?

There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).

PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS

Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.

Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.

And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.

SUMMING UP

To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.

If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.

N. Petrenko, Ch. editor