Pruning roses after planting. Seasonal pruning of garden roses: what to consider

Cut the roses off the bush. Using a clean pruner, cut the stems of the roses at an angle of about 45 degrees. Cutting at this angle prevents the stems from resting fully on the bottom of the vase, which could prevent them from receiving required amount water and fade quickly. Cut the stems close to the ground so that the flower is long enough for later trimming.

Place the cut roses in a bucket of warm water. Do not rush to put roses in a vase. Use a bucket wide enough for you to work comfortably in. All further cuts are made in this bucket of water so that air bubbles or emboli do not end up inside the stems.

Cut leaves below water level. Bacteria and rotting processes can develop in leaves immersed in stagnant water. The leaves must be left above the water, allowing them to occupy from the upper third to half of the stem. Otherwise, roses simply will not be able to absorb water.

The magnificent flowering of the rose is measured out for its time, after which the shoots crown the fruits in the spirit of a la wild rose. If you do not intervene in the natural course of things, rose bushes will stand until autumn. But it is worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after a while they grow back. A little later, luxurious flowers reappear on them, returning us to the beginning of summer.

Why prune roses after flowering

After flowering, the roses must be cut off, or rather, shortened the shoot on which there was a flower or flower brush. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruiting program to the regeneration program. The “spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off until mid-July-early August.

The fruits of the rose are left for the winter, but in the summer it is better to cut them off - they look painfully sloppy

From the dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will start to grow. A repeated, but already artificially caused, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made over the external kidney. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same as above a kidney, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut point should be about 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).

A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush

This technique improves the ventilation of the bush, is the prevention of fungal diseases. The bush becomes more magnificent, the shoots do not get mixed up, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly around ahead of time.

Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral inner buds, directed inside the bush

They also shorten blind shoots, which for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end.

This blind shoot has a growth bud damaged by a pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects.

They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first external lateral bud located below.

A blind shoot is pruned over the first developed lateral bud

To determine the blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted along the branch. On some types of roses, the apical buds are large, and on some they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.

These shoots have terminal buds

There are several types of roses that differ in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.

hybrid tea roses

This species is characterized by long stems, ending, as a rule, with one flower (although there are varieties with brushes). There are no side branches on the shoots.

Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3-4th leaf from the bottom

The place of the cut is determined by moving upwards from the base of the shoot - the cut is made over the 3rd–4th leaf.

Although the hybrid tea rose and floribunda are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom.

Floribundas bloom like hybrid tea, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut in the same way.

The floribunda rose is also cut low.

Video: hybrid tea rose pruning

Features of pruning climbing roses

Detachment climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbings, or climbers. Without getting into the wilds of the classification of both, we will consider a typical pruning for each of the species.

Roses rambler

In rambler-type climbing roses, the first flowers open on last year's lateral shoots, after which the baton is intercepted by the current year's shoots. Thus, flowering is continuous.

Ramblers are great for decorating the walls of the house.

Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made over 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, to form fruits, in a word, to ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of a young lash can be pinched 5–7 cm.

Video: pruning climbing roses rambler

climbers

Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower clusters along the entire length.

Beautiful climbers - not a word to say, not a pen to describe

Summer pruning consists in shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which promotes branching and re-flowering. On the remaining shoot, dry inflorescences are removed.

Climbing rose shoots are shortened and freed from dry flowers

Correct completion of pruning - top dressing

After pruning, the rose must be fed. To do this, use the following options:

• special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
• herbal infusion - 1-2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
• fermented chicken droppings or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Timing for pruning

Most roses bloom in June. Florists have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering, for some reason - weather, pests, diseases, has shifted to the second half of summer, it is undesirable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant will not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.

The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots.

If the region is characterized early first frosts, young shoots will suffer first. Therefore, roses that have blossomed out of time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush hibernates.

My mistakes and achievements

I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one is climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. Long time pruning was carried out on a whim, it is surprising that all my "girls" are still alive and bloom beautifully. The main mistake was to pinch off spent flowers. After that, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrene-like?

Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake

I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut off - above the kidney or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.

The shoot was cut off at an arbitrary place between the buds, but not above the bud

Incorrect pruning (not pinching) is not so catastrophic, new flowering shoots will grow. But still, the heart is sweeter when the pruning is done correctly. It seems that rose bush full of gratitude, and the twig, crowned with a sharp knob, is in a hurry to grow and express gratitude with a fragrant flower.

Either I guessed it, or I became smarter, but the cropping was done correctly

Summer pruning roses after flowering will be the highest manifestation of your love for her. It won't be long before you take a retaliatory step, and charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.

Pruning roses is necessary primarily for regular rejuvenation and maintaining health. Pruning also achieve a good shape of the bush, lush and long flowering.

To many rose lovers, pruning seems to be a complex and mysterious process. To master the secrets of pruning roses, you need to stock up on a good tool, get acquainted with the basic principles common to all types of roses, and master the pruning technique.

Necessary set of tools: side cutters with sharp blades of two types (for cutting thick and young shoots), garden shears with long handles for cutting in hard-to-reach places, a garden saw for trimming very thick shoots and removing old stumps, and a garden knife for trimming low-quality cuts. To protect your hands from thorns, you will need tight gloves, and to protect the cut surface from possible infection, you need a garden pitch or a special paste called Rannet, which is easy to use.

Basic principles and techniques for pruning roses
Growth buds (eyes) are located in the axils of the leaves. After leaf fall, they are clearly visible above the leaf scars. The higher the buds are, the faster they germinate. At the bottom of the rose shoot are "sleeping buds", which, before germinating, must go through several stages in their development. Pruning to immature buds delays flowering. Pruning should provide the possibility of airing the crown and access of leaves and buds to the light. The rose should, if possible, be cut to the outer buds and not thicken the center of the bush. The cut should be smooth, without torn edges, no closer than 0.5 cm from the kidney and with a slight slope from it. Pruning should be done to a healthy (white) core. When several shoots appear in the axil of one leaf, it is necessary to remove all but one at an early stage.

You need to start pruning all types of roses by removing dead, diseased and frost-damaged stems, as well as thin and weak growths. Such pruning is called sanitary or thinning.

In order to avoid the spread of diseases, the removed parts of the plants should be burned. You can only work with a serviceable, clean and well-sharpened tool.

Rose pruning types

Strong (short) pruning, at the level of 2-4 buds from the base of the shoots, is usually used when spring planting seedlings, in case of rejuvenation of old bushes or as a last chance for weakened bushes of hybrid tea roses.

Medium (moderate) pruning, at the level of 5-7 buds, stimulates early flowering and provides maximum decorative effect.

Weak (long) pruning is a slight shortening of the shoots and is used as summer pruning to remove faded inflorescences. For ground cover roses and some scrubs, this type of pruning is essential for at least a few years, after which heavy pruning may be needed to rejuvenate the bush.

Combined pruning. Experienced rose growers often use various combinations of the listed types and achieve almost continuous flowering. Combined pruning - The best way to prolong the flowering of floribunda roses.

Timing for pruning roses

Distinguish between spring, summer and autumn pruning roses.

The spring pruning is the most important, sometimes referred to as the main pruning. It is held annually, although its scale for different garden groups and even varieties within the same group can vary significantly. After opening the roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, leaving only live shoots. With the onset of bud swelling, the main pruning is carried out, the volume of which depends on the age and condition of the bush.

Summer pruning is carried out in a minimum volume, faded flowers and inflorescences are removed to the first developed bud. Hybrid tea roses are cut with part of the stem down to the first true leaf. Timely removal of faded flowers prolongs the flowering period.

Autumn pruning is mainly related to climatic risks and shelter techniques. In warm climates, roses do not need pruning in autumn. In our conditions, almost all roses, to one degree or another, require winter protection. It is necessary to remove the unripened parts of the shoots and shorten the roses to the height of the shelter. At the same time, it should be remembered that strong pruning harms climbing large-flowered roses and straight-growing powerful scars, therefore, when sheltering, they are bent to the ground.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Before planting, roses need heavy pruning in spring, and moderate pruning in autumn. Hybrid tea roses bloom on current year's growth and need moderate annual pruning. This ensures good branching and the formation of young shoots. Powerful varieties do not tolerate heavy pruning, after which they can produce non-flowering shoots. At the same time, constant light pruning can interfere with the rejuvenation of the bush and reduce flowering. If the rose blooms only on the tops of tall shoots, the base of the bush is exposed and the number of young shoots is reduced, measures must be taken. Some of the oldest shoots that have reduced flowering should be cut to the base, while others should be heavily pruned. Young shoots are pruned moderately. Experienced rose growers avoid such situations and use combined pruning.

floribunda rose pruning

Usually these roses look more overgrown and branched, despite the annual pruning. After sanitary pruning you can remove or cut off shoots growing towards the center of the bush on the outer bud. Then one part of the remaining main shoots is cut off strongly, the other - moderately. Lateral shoots on the main stems are shortened to 2-3 buds.
Combined pruning for floribunda roses is the best solution. Some of the shoots are stimulated for early flowering, and the other - for the growth of basal shoots and a later wave of flowering.

Pruning climbing large-flowered roses

The most difficult group of roses for conditions where they need serious winter protection. As a rule, when winter shelter these roses suffer not so much from frost as from damage to powerful shoots when they are bent down. For those who love roses of this group, it is better to choose varieties with relatively plastic shoots. In the spring, after the opening of roses, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning. After that, the main shoots should be cut to the top overwintered bud, some too long shoots can be slightly shortened (to give the bush a neat shape). Lateral shoots need to be cut, leaving 2-3 buds. In summer, faded flowers and inflorescences are removed with part of the stem to the nearest leaf.

Pruning rambler climbing roses

The main base for the next year's flowering of these once-blooming roses is the young growing shoots of the current season. Old shoots sharply reduce flowering. Necessary condition abundant flowering - young replacement shoots should appear annually and mature for a good overwintering. For this purpose, faded shoots older than two years of age are cut out immediately after flowering, and young growing shoots are pinched in early September by 3-4 buds. In the spring, after sanitary pruning, the degree of thickening of the bush should be assessed, since overgrown bushes bloom weaker and are poorly ventilated. Too dense bushes may suffer from powdery mildew and in some cases serve as a permanent source of infection. It is enough to leave 5-7 young shoots and 3 two-year-old ones, the rest should be completely removed. Lateral branches on two-year-old shoots should be shortened to 15 cm.

Pruning roses Modern Shrub

In Russia, roses of this group are considered semi-climbing, in some countries they are called modern shrub roses, in others - landscape. Most of the roses in this large and complex group are voluminous and, in warmer climates, are undemanding to heavy and frequent pruning. When pruning, one should take into account the strength of growth and the degree of development, not only different varieties but for every plant. The main task of pruning is to achieve a uniform and compact shape of the bush. Under all conditions, diseased and shoots directed inside the bush are removed. Major escapes in high grades(from 1.3 m) should be shortened by no more than a third. If the height of the variety does not exceed 1.2 m, you can cut it in half. In the presence of a large number of long side branches, they can be cut by two-thirds. If side shoots short, they are cut to 10 cm. In hedges of roses in this group, traditional pruning is not used. To achieve maximum decorativeness in the spring, only dead branches are removed, and all shoots are cut evenly, about half the height. Subsequently, thinning (rejuvenating) pruning may be needed, the volume of which will depend on the age and condition of the bushes.

If you have started growing roses, be prepared for such an important procedure as pruning after flowering. Thanks to her, plants develop and bloom better. And so that the procedure goes smoothly, we will share with you a few tricks.

Pruning roses allows you to rejuvenate the plant, strengthen it root system, improve metabolism and thereby start abundant flowering. In addition, after such a procedure, the bush acquires aesthetic appearance and tolerates winter frosts better. Plants that have been pruned have increased resistance to diseases and pests.

In order for all of the above to come true, you need to properly trim. If this is your first time doing this, don't be afraid to make a mistake. Of course, not everything can work out right away, but over time, you yourself will teach beginners. It remains only to equip quality tools and information about the needs of cropped plants!

Rose pruning tools

Before you start cutting, prepare everything necessary tools. Remember that they must be clean, sharp and dry in order for the roses to remain healthy after the procedure. Be sure to wear thick gloves to protect your hands from thorns. For a large bush, choose long sleeves and tight pants. As for the inventory itself, you will need:

• bypass secateurs - for live and dry thin shoots;
• pruner with anvil - only for dry branches;
• lopper or garden saw - for thick live shoots.

You may also need knee pads to keep your clothes from getting dirty while trimming thick dead shoots, and a small rake to clean up dead leaves.

Rose pruning rules

You can start pruning in August or September. The day is better to choose sunny and calm. The main goal is to remove faded buds, weak, diseased and fattening shoots. It is also worth thinning the center of the bush so that more light and air get into it, and cut some of the healthy shoots into cuttings for subsequent propagation.

Remove faded roses immediately, without waiting for the petals to fall. So the bush will save strength for flowering. Moreover, in large-flowered roses, a stem with a flower, incomplete leaves and 1-2 five-fold leaves is cut off. And in many-flowered ones, the entire inflorescence is completely above the first leaf.

It is important to make the right cuts, which will allow the plant to recover faster. The cut and its edges should be even and smooth. The angle of inclination is 45 degrees, the indentation from the kidney upwards is approximately 5 mm. Dead shoots need to be cut off until the shoot inside turns white. Also remove all thin shoots and shoots, they only prevent the bush from gaining strength for flowering. Correct option cut shown in the diagram below.

Weak shoots cut strongly, large - with less effort. And do not be afraid to cut off the excess, the plant will quickly recover!

Treat large sections with disinfectants (for example, RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty), garden pitch or charcoal so as not to infect. Small sections up to 5 mm in length will quickly tighten themselves, so you can not coat them with anything. Remove cut shoots and leaves around the bush to prevent rotting.

Now consider the rules for pruning popular groups of roses.

If each shoot is crowned with a glass, this is a tea-hybrid rose. It usually blooms on current year's cuttings and needs to be carefully pruned into a ball shape.

Feel free to cut strong branches in half, thin ones higher, by 2-3 internodes or one third of the length of the shoot. Also remember to remove or shorten weak shoots that grow inside the bush.

Floribunda roses are characterized by abundant and slow flowering. They are more unpretentious than hybrid tea roses, although they were obtained as a result of crossing the latter with polyanthus varieties.

Before pruning, the bush should completely fade. Then carefully cut off the faded inflorescences. Shorten thick shoots by half, leaving 3-5 buds, and young ones by one third, so that up to 10 buds remain. This will allow the plant not to deplete too much after pruning. Cut out the old shoots in the middle of the bush completely.

If you do not prune the floribunda, then the bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers.

Shrubs are universal, and are used for both vertical and horizontal gardening. Their feature: flower buds mainly located on the top of the shoot.

Depending on the variety, pruning may vary, so in the process you will have to rely a little on intuition to keep natural form bush. On the whole bush, leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots, and on them - 6-8 developed buds. Shorten the shoots by one quarter or one third, dry - completely. Evenly spaced healthy shoots leave intact. Also prune the thin, watery stems so they don't freeze during a frost.

The stem does not need to be cut. For thinning, you can use the same technology as for spray roses(scrubs).

Ground cover roses differ from their relatives in their creeping shoots along the ground, which look great along paths and in the foreground of flower beds.

In autumn, plants also need pruning. Weak and diseased branches, old shoots are subject to removal. Strong shoots need to be shortened a little. Lateral branches on which there was flowering - cut into 2-3 buds. Also remove any side stems that deprive the rose of decorativeness.

There should be no crossing shoots in the center of the bush. If they are, they will also have to be cut.

Climbing, or climbing, roses require regular pruning. They bloom in their second year, so no pruning is done in their first year. At flowering plants in late August or early September, cut off all diseased shoots, and shorten those that bloomed by 3 buds. Cut old branches strongly, leaving 30 cm from the level of the root collar.

There are 2 types of climbing roses: ramblers and climbers (climings), the pruning of which has some differences.

Ramblers have thin and flexible shoots, like grapes. The plant blooms on the last year's shoots in a scattering of small flowers.

After flowering, cut the shoots with buds completely, and pinch the unripe ones. Pruning very carefully, otherwise the plant may no longer bloom. There are types of ramblers:

• blooming once: when pruning, 6-10 strong shoots are left, 3-5 annual and biennial shoots each; the timing of the main pruning - the end of summer;
• re-blooming: when pruning, 1-3 annual and 3-7 biennial shoots are left; the main pruning is carried out in the spring.

Climbers are hybrids of ramblers with other varieties of roses. Plants differ in thicker shoots and large flowers.

Climbers refer to re blooming roses and tolerate pruning well. It is better to tie up young specimens so that they have time to grow shoots. And a few years after planting, faded climbers are pruned. At the same time, the shoots are cut by a third, sometimes even by a quarter, removing only the very top. If there are old shoots, then only one, the most dilapidated, is completely removed.

Polyanthus roses are compact and highly branched shrubs with paniculate inflorescences.

They bloom until late autumn, so they are usually cut in the spring, shortening strong shoots by one third, as shown in the diagram. But in the presence of damaged and diseased branches, it is better to get rid of them right now! Also remove thickening shoots from the center to enhance the flowering of the bush. In total, after pruning, 7-8 strong main branches should remain.

Rose seedlings in containers and open ground no need for pruning.

Now you know how to properly prune your favorite roses. Only regular care will allow the plants to show themselves in all their glory, so pick up a pruner and get to work!