Formation of trees according to the Spanish bush system. Cherry in the middle lane

Cherry is a tall plant. If the growth point is not stopped in time, the culture takes on a pyramidal shape and becomes unproductive. The height of the plant can reach 5-6 m. The formation of sweet cherries according to the type of the Spanish bush can significantly increase productivity and facilitate tree care.

Formation goals

The pruning scheme was first tested by Spanish gardeners in industrial plantings. The tree is transformed into a bush by stopping the growth point. The method allows you to plant a large number of cherries in a small area.

Benefits of using a Spanish bush shaping scheme:

• maximum plant height 2.5 m;
• on the small area you can plant the main variety and pollinators;
• the method of planting 3.5x4 m allows not only to save space, but also to improve the quality of the crop due to the optimal area required for nutrition, good illumination of the central part of the stem.

The only disadvantage is the weak resistance of plants to the effects of low temperatures during such formation. The technology is expedient only in warm regions of the country.

Landing

plant trees better in spring. Choose 2 year old seedlings with a healthy root system. Prepare the soil in advance in the fall. Apply organic fertilizers, bring sand to the loam. Dig up the area. In the spring, mark up the holes.

The size of the planting pit is 60x60x60 cm. Too moisture-intensive soil can cause the development of fungal diseases and root rot. In such a situation, lay a layer of drainage on the bottom of the hole. Only then lay a layer consisting of:

• soil;
• compost;
• peat.

You need to fill the hole about halfway, giving the embankment a hilly shape. On this elevation it will be necessary to place root system. Gently cover it with soil. When root neck will be at ground level, the soil in the hole must be tamped and spilled with water.

Stages of bush formation

The Spanish bush cherry formation scheme includes several stages.

1. Stopping the point of growth, the formation of skeletal branches of the first order.
2. Giving the branches a horizontal direction, shortening unnecessary shoots.
3. Crown thickening adjustment.

First year

A year after planting, at the end of March, until the growing season, you need to shorten the stem. Height can be 30-70 cm, but not higher. It depends entirely on the location of the kidneys. You need to choose the most developed, looking in different directions.

Step back 10 cm from the last kidney and pinch off the growth point. Reniform formations, which are located in the interval of the trunk from the last powerful kidney to the cut edge, must be removed. During the growth period, select the 4 strongest, cut off the rest. Those left behind will become the skeleton of the first tier.

Give the shoots an arrangement of 60 cm relative to the trunk. This can be done by tying branches with ropes to stakes, or by placing clothespins over the shoots. Growing up, the branches begin to bend upward. To maintain the direction originally set, the ends are weighted with a small weight. When the shoots reach a length of more than 50 cm, they all need to be cut to the same level. It will turn out that the upper branches will be only 20 cm, and the lower ones about 50.

Pruned shoots will release branches of the second order by the end of the season. The most powerful ones need to be transferred to fruit or completely cut off, leaving no stumps.

Second year

By this time, you will already have a small cherry tree with short shoots of the first tier and long shoots of the second. Formation is carried out before bud break, while the branches are still soft. At the same time, you need to remove the thorn left when stopping the growth point last year.

On the site, place the wires parallel, slightly rising above ground level. The step between them should be at least 1 m. In the first tier, on each branch of the skeleton, find the lowest shoot. Attach it to the wire using a rope. The crown will become wider, open.

The formation procedure is suspended until the buds open. During the flowering period, the shoots attached to the wire must be shortened to 25 cm. Feel free to remove even shoots with flowers. Spend the cut on the outer bud, leaving a spike of 10 cm. In summer, when the sprouts reach a height of 60 cm, carry out a similar procedure with tying, and shorten the remaining branches to 30 cm.

Third year

During this period, the formation is reduced to adjusting the density of the crown. All branches exceeding a height of 2.5 m are pruned. You also need to remove branches of branched shoots, leaving only 2.

Every year, 1 part of all flowering shoots of the 1st branch of the skeleton is subject to pruning. Thus, rejuvenation is carried out, which ensures the appearance of new fruit-bearing shoots. A similar procedure is carried out every 4 years. The skeletal branch is cut to 30 cm.

Annual thinning of the crown

When the formation is completed, it remains to maintain the proper appearance. Sanitary pruning involves the removal of:

• shoots in the middle of the crown;
• branches in contact with the crowns of other plants in the area exceeding the level of 2.5 m;
• skeletal shoots of the first tier, due to this there is a transfer to another shoot;
• young shoots, heavily covered with close shoots.

We carry out the procedure correctly

Proper pruning not so difficult, the main thing is to observe sanitary and hygienic rules. In order not to make a mistake, follow the instructions.

• Prepare in advance garden tools: secateurs, hacksaw.
• Treat inventory with alcohol. If you intend to form several trees, thoroughly disinfect the tool after each plant.
• Before pruning, inspect the trunk carefully. The stem must be shortened above the kidney. Please note: the lower you leave the trunk, the greater the growth of side shoots will be.
• Rejuvenating shaping involves shortening the skeletal branches. Don't cut them too close to the trunk. This will create holes in the barrel. Too long stumps will prevent the plant from developing, and can cause decay.
• At the trunk level, all leaves must be removed, they only take nutrients in vain.
• Do not leave the trunk above 70 cm, otherwise the skeletal branches will begin to form too high.
• Cut one-year-old shoots in accordance with the scheme, without shortening much, otherwise the crown will be too thick, and fertility will begin to decline.

If your seedling is frozen, carry out a sanitary pruning. Remove all dead branches. The formation of the crown in such cases involves the use of healthy branches as the skeleton, located most conveniently.

Branch types

It is quite difficult for beginner gardeners to figure out which branches to leave and which to remove. In order to avoid mistakes, you need to remember the classification of shoots in appearance.

• Growth: form leaf and fruit buds. To limit growth, they are shortened or removed completely in the fall.
• Mixed: are powerful branches. They play an important role in crop growth. They form leaves and fruits.
• Bouquet: shortened shoots not exceeding 30 cm. Branches bring 90% of the crop. For young plant shoots play an auxiliary role. During the first 4-5 years, they are used as branching stimulants, for which multiple growth buds are partially removed.
• Fruit or generative: shorter than bouquet (20 cm), do not bear fruit, the ovaries immediately crumble. The remaining fruits, ripening, are very different from those that are formed on bouquet sprouts. Branches die off on their own in winter.
• Tops: branches that do not form fruits, thick, arranged vertically. They can be a good base for the skeleton if the plant is very cold in winter.
• Premature or summer: grows from buds on mixed shoots. They form throughout the season. The branches are too thin to bear fruit and survive the winter cold. They are usually removed in autumn or spring.

Conclusion

Sweet cherry, formed according to the type of the Spanish bush, is a bole no higher than 2.5 m, highly branched. Skeletal shoots are laid strictly horizontally, which makes it possible to achieve a good stable yield. The method is suitable only for the southern regions. In the northern regions, the plant will not be able to survive the winter.

All gardeners, without exception, know that cherries, as well as cherry-cherry hybrids - dukes, have a tendency to lush growth and, first of all, in height. If the seedling is left without proper pruning, it forms a rare, elongated pyramidal and unproductive crown, reaching a height of about 5-6 meters in the first ten years. As a result, we get a high and very inconvenient crown for harvesting. But this problem has long been resolved in the tree formation system using the "Spanish Bush" method.

This system was first introduced in industrial plantings of sweet cherries in Spain. The crown of the formed tree with its structure resembles a bush, consisting of a short trunk and 4-5 skeletal branches, which is why the name of the whole system arose.

• Trees limit their height to 2.5 meters, which allows you to harvest the entire crop without ladders, standing on the ground.
• The system is great for small plots, where free space is "worth its weight in gold" and you can not do without compaction of landings.
• Trees are planted with a distance of only 3 meters and 4.5 between the rows themselves. In addition to convenience and tangible savings places, fruits reach their best palatability due to the free, well-lit and wide central part of the crown.

cherry "Spanish bush"

"Spanish bush" - the third year of life

Landing

Biennial seedlings are planted in landing pits 60x60x60 cm, which are prepared in advance, preferably in the fall, if planting will be done in the spring. When digging a hole, the upper black layer of the earth is separated from the lower reddish one. If the soil is moisture-intensive, a layer of drainage is poured into the bottom of the pit. Then lowered into the pit upper layer soil mixed with compost or humus to form a mound. The roots of the seedling are evenly distributed over the surface of the hill and covered with the remaining earth from the lower layers of the pit, also mixed with organic fertilizers, tamping several times. After all the soil is in the hole, the root collar should be level with the ground. Then the soil around the trunk is once again well tamped and generously spilled with water.

First year of formation

In early spring before the start of sap flow, at the end of March, the bole is trimmed. When trees are formed according to the Spanish Bush system, the tree stem is from 30 to 70 cm. The height of the stem largely depends on the location of the buds. In the named interval, a site is selected with well-developed and evenly spaced buds in different directions, but not higher than 70 cm.

1. The upper part of the seedling is cut off 10-15 cm above the last bud.

2. The kidneys, which are located at a distance of 10-15 cm, are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, which prevents their development. This section of the trunk is called a spike, it will perform an auxiliary function during the entire first year of formation.

3. From the awakened buds in the upper part, 4-5 of the most developed and evenly spaced along the entire circumference of the stem of the shoot are selected, the rest are broken out. These shoots will become the skeletal branches of the future crown.

4. Escapes must be given correct angle departure from the stem, which is 60 degrees. Cherries and dukes give shoots that have an acute angle between the trunk, and the uppermost kidney always tends to the position of the conductor and occupies a strictly vertical position. The spike left at the end of the trunk helps to achieve the slope we need. So, all young shoots are deflected from the trunk at an angle of 60 degrees with the help of spacers, clothespins or garters with a rope. The easiest way is to place a clothespin over the shoot. When the shoots grow and bend, breaking the angle, their end is weighted with a weight, which will maintain the given angle.

All young shoots are deflected from the stem at an angle of 60 degrees using spacers, clothespins or garters with a rope.

5. After the shoots have overcome a length of 50 cm, they are cut at the same height under the same comb.

6. The upper shoots, of course, will be shorter than the lower ones, the uppermost shoot will be only 15-20 cm, and the lowest one will be the longest. The cut is made over the bud, which faces outward, and not into the center of the crown. So, the crown will grow in breadth, without thickening, providing all branches with an optimal light regime.

From the pruned branches, shoots of the second order will appear, reaching a length of 50 cm by the end of the season. In the event of the appearance of fattening or competing shoots, clearly distinguished by their strength of growth from the background of others, they are cut or transferred into future fruit branches. To this end, they are cut off over the fourth leaf, and after a couple of weeks, after the appearance of lateral branches, they are cut again to the lowest shoot, that is, the lowest branch is left, most often it is the most underdeveloped.

Second year of formation

By the spring of the second year, we should have a trunk with short branches of the first order, each of which carries several long shoots of the second order. The formation should be continued until the buds open, when the shoots are still flexible and pliable. And at the same time, remove the spike left on the trunk, because we will no longer need it.

second year of formation

1. To begin with, two rigid wires are pulled parallel to each other at a distance of 1 meter, which lie or slightly rise above the ground. The tree should remain strictly in the center between them.

2. On each skeletal branch of the first order, the lowest shoot is selected and, with the help of a rope tied to one of the wires, is pulled to a horizontal position. After that, the entire crown will open and become wider.

3. Further formation is resumed only after bud break, during possible flowering. All shoots not drawn in spring are shortened to a length of 25 cm from their base. Such pruning is not easy to do psychologically, as the "lion's share" of flowers is sometimes removed, but these measures significantly affect the quality of the crop and the general condition of the tree. The cut is also made on the outer bud, leaving a spike of 7-10 cm, which will give the last shoot the desired angle.

Further formation is resumed only after bud break, during possible flowering.

4. In the middle of summer, when the shoots that have appeared grow to a height of 60 cm, the pruning is repeated again as in spring: the lowest ones are pulled horizontally, and the upper ones are cut to a height of 30 cm.

This event ends the formation of the cherry crown. Further, they only monitor the given dimensions and the balance of the entire tree.

Care from the third year of the tree's life

Starting from the third year top part the tree starts to thicken. For this, regulatory pruning is carried out, in which all branches of a branched shoot are cut out, leaving only the two lower ones. Branches are cut that exceed the height of the tree by 2.5 meters and are in contact with the crowns of other trees.

Also, a quarter of not only all fruit-bearing shoots, but also one skeletal branch is cut out annually. This ensures the constant youth of the tree and the appearance of new growth, which guarantees abundant fruiting. A similar rejuvenation of the entire crown occurs every four years.

Every year, a quarter is cut not only of all fruit-bearing shoots, but also of one skeletal branch.

The skeletal branches are cut off leaving a section of 30-35 cm from the stem of the branch, thereby moving to the replacement branch.

Cherry or cherry, formed according to the "Spanish Bush" system, although it has a somewhat unusual look for us, it gives such advantages as a neat and compact crown, large fruits and allows you to harvest without resorting to a ladder.

Sweet cherry is a fast-growing and rapidly developing horticultural crop. Therefore, pruning is important as a factor that inhibits growth and affects the yield of sweet cherries. This article tells about the correct conduct, types and timing of pruning.

The formation of the cherry crown, its features

Sweet cherry is a horticultural crop characterized by rapid growth and development. Her fruiting occurs on annual growths and perennial bouquet branches. Without pruning, the cherry crown will quickly thicken and the yield of the tree will drop significantly. In addition, the sweet cherry can reach a considerable height, as a result of which it will be difficult to harvest. These species characteristics of the plant determine the features of the formation of its crown. Forming the cherry crown, we pursue the following goals:

• getting a good harvest.
• increasing the ability of a tree to resist diseases and pests that develop in the absence of natural ventilation in a dense crown.
• increasing the winter hardiness of the plant.

The pruning procedure should be carried out so that all the juices of the tree are directed to the horizontal side shoots because they are the most fruitful.

Trimming types

To achieve the result, all types of pruning are used in combination, namely: shaping, sanitary and rejuvenating. Each of them is aimed at obtaining a certain result.

Formative pruning helps to create a strong foundation for young cherries, creates a framework for the future crown.

Sanitary pruning is necessary for the prevention of diseases by cutting off dead, infected and infertile branches that thicken the crown.

For old trees that have ceased to bear fruit, pruning is done, called anti-aging. It helps the cherry to return the yield.

Some sources additionally highlight such a type of pruning as preventive. This is an annual pruning that helps to clear the crown of unnecessary or dried branches, as well as branches that break off during the ripening of the crop.

Types of cherry branches

In order to properly prune, you need to understand what types of cherry branches exist and which of them need to be subjected to this procedure.

Seasonal schedule for pruning cherries

Deadline spring pruning limited by the beginning of sap flow - it must be completed before the tree awakens from winter sleep. In the spring, formative and preventive pruning is carried out.

Summer pruning is optional. But in some cases it is necessary (for example, to trim broken branches). Then it should be borne in mind that it must be carried out after the fruits from the tree are collected.

Autumn pruning is required to prepare cherries for wintering. It's always sanitary pruning.

	Spring	Summer	Autumn
Formative pruning	Held annually. Damage to the tree is minimized if pruning is carried out when the buds have not yet begun to swell, but at night the temperature has already risen above zero, the night frosts have stopped.	Possible, but not required. It is carried out in two steps: after flowering and after fruiting.	Not carried out.
Sanitary pruning	Cut out dry and damaged branches after wintering.	Not carried out	Annually after the leaves fall. The timing of the overgrowing of cuts and wounds of the tree is taken into account - the sweet cherry should recover before frost.
Anti-aging pruning	As needed (usually every 5-6 years). To get a good result, warm weather should be established during the pruning.	It is possible at the beginning of summer, if the spring is damp and cold.	Not carried out.

How to prune a tree

Formative pruning

The essence of its implementation boils down to the fact that, as a result, a crown is formed in the sweet cherry with branches located in an optimal way to obtain best harvest. You need to start this process with a seedling. It is held annually in the spring, starting from the year the cherry seedling was planted. The timing of spring pruning varies depending on the climate: starting from the second decade of March in the southern regions and ending in mid-April in the central regions of the country.

Sparse - tiered pruning scheme

First year

Most gardeners adhere to a pruning scheme called sparsely-tiered. It is the most common. As a result, sweet cherry has from 6 to 8 stem branches. They are located on different height, without forming crown voids.

Starting pruning sweet cherries in the first spring, you must first determine the trunk (the section of the trunk located above the root neck, but below the first shoots) and its height. For convenience, the border of the stem can be marked. The top of the seedling is cut at the level of the location of 4-6 buds from the trunk. Cut it directly above the upper kidney. The cherry stem is usually 30-60 cm, depending on the growing conditions. IN southern regions the trunk is longer, in the northern ones it is correspondingly shorter.

Post-plant pruning of a seedling - video

Second year

During the year, the grown seedling put out many side branches. To continue the formation of the crown, it is necessary to select the strongest shoots (3-4), from which the basis of the first tier of the crown will be obtained. Having chosen a branch located below the others, cut it off, leaving 50-60 cm in length. The remaining branches should be cut to this level. Be sure to pay attention to the central conductor (this is the part of the trunk located above the stem). To calculate the level of its pruning, lay 60 or 70 cm in height from the level of the uppermost branch, and cut at a height of 4 buds from this mark.

Third year

Cherry continues to gain strength and form a crown. Its density is already much greater, and, at first glance, it is quite difficult to figure out what needs to be removed and what not. Proper pruning consists of the following:

• On the lower tier, leave the most underdeveloped branch without pruning.
• The growth of other branches on the tier should be carried out, focusing on the level of the uncut branch.
• Completely remove the shoots that make up an acute angle with the trunk - these are the so-called competitors. do the same with all branches, the direction of growth of which goes inside the crown.

• Choose suitable branches: they should be directed outward from the crown, and located 30 cm or more from the central conductor.
• If necessary, the branches of the second level must be shortened. The guideline is the shoot of the extension of the branch of the base of the first tier: 10–15 cm shorter than it.
• The central conductor is shortened as follows: 40–50 cm are measured from the branches of the second level, and at a height of 4–6 buds above this mark, pruning is performed.
• Remove branches (1–4) that are 20 cm or more smaller than the central conductor.

Fourth year

• To reduce the growth of the tree by cutting the central conductor above the weakest side branch among others. The length of the specified branch is reduced, leaving 50 cm of its length.
• The third tier of branches is cut based on the length of the central conductor: shorter by about 20 cm.
• On the branches of the second and first tiers, shoots of elongation of skeletal branches that have grown over the previous year are cut off. But this procedure is carried out only if these shoots have reached a length of more than 70–80 cm.
• The shoots of the branches of the base of the second and first tiers, directed vertically or towards the trunk, are completely removed. Similar shoots growing outward are cut to a length of 70 cm, or not cut at all if they are shorter than the specified length.

Formation of sweet cherry "Australian Bush"

This method implies stunted tree with a crown of several trunks, identical in value. With cherries formed in this way, it is easy and convenient to harvest. To obtain a crown of this form, you need:

1. Trim the seedling after planting, leaving 50 cm in height.
2. Leave the 4 most powerful side shoots, choosing them from the shoots that appeared during the first summer of the seedling's life. The rest are cut out.
3. After waiting for the shoots to be 3–5 cm long, they must be placed perpendicular to the trunk. To do this, gardeners use various devices. For example. substitute ordinary clothespins between the branch and the trunk, allowing the shoot to grow in a certain direction.
4. In the spring of the second year, all shoots that grow inside the crown are cut out. Leave only the branches located horizontally, or close to this level.
5. In the spring of the third year, all shoots that have grown on skeletal branches are cut, leaving a length of 8–10 cm. In autumn, the annual growth of branches is completely cut out. In the future, every 5–6 years, sanitary pruning is necessary to maintain the shape of the crown.

Formation of sweet cherry "Spanish Bush"

The formation of cherries according to this type has proven itself in cases of dense planting of cherries. It allows you to restrain the rapid growth of trees. However, such cherries are more susceptible to frost and begin to bear fruit 1–2 years later.

1. In the year of planting, no manipulations with the seedling are carried out.
2. The next spring after planting, the tree is pruned. The recommended height is 40–70 cm. The shoots of growth buds that have grown over the summer are cut so that they are 10–15 cm higher than the central conductor. There must be 4 or less. The rest needs to be cut out.
3. In autumn, all shoots 50 cm long or more are stretched into trellises on both sides to obtain a symmetrical crown.
4. Next spring, the tree is not touched, and only a year later, the tied branches and shoots that have grown over Last year. There is a strong shortening, leaving only 25 cm from the original length of the branches. Shoots in the center of the crown are left untouched. In a year, the cherry will begin to bear fruit.

Despite a number of advantages, such a scheme is used only in the south of Russia and Europe. The risk of losing crops during frost is very high.

Sanitary pruning

Such pruning is reduced to the removal of weak, infected, broken and dried branches to prevent the development of diseases. This also includes the cutting of shoots that have grown at an angle of 45 degrees or less, since such branches later break under the weight of the crop.

Anti-aging pruning

Signs of tree aging will be a decrease in yield, a decrease in the taste of fruits, tree diseases. Cherry after rejuvenating pruning has a crown like a two-year-old tree and returns lost qualities. This result is achieved as follows:

• Branches that do not have branches are cut off by 2–10 cm. From the branches that have grown on a new one, they cut off everything except one, which should subsequently replace the shortened branch.
• Branches that have a shoot left to grow are cut to the level of this shoot, slightly above the base.

For effective pruning, it is necessary to arm yourself with theoretical knowledge about the structure of sweet cherries, about the types of its branches, about the characteristics of flowering and fruiting, the timing and types of pruning. And you also need to know how to properly cut off excess growth, what tools are needed and how to treat a fresh wound on a tree.

What is the best garden tool to use?

The main tools are a pruner and a garden hacksaw. A lopper will help cut branches that are in uncomfortable places. The garden knife cuts young shoots well and cleans the wounds of the tree. A sturdy ladder will also come in handy. Sharp sharpening of any tool is required. Before pruning, they must be disinfected by wiping with alcohol to exclude the possibility of infection of healthy sweet cherries from infected ones.

How to cut branches

Powerful branches have an influx at the base along which the cut passes. An erroneous cut will be parallel or perpendicular to the trunk. With a parallel cut, the wound heals poorly and for a long time, since its size will be larger than with a cut along the influx. With a perpendicular cut, a hemp may form in its lower part, which subsequently rots. If the influx is not visually determined, then proceed as follows: mentally draw a line perpendicular to the branch, the second - parallel to the trunk, and cut along the line of the middle of the angle formed by them.

Thin branches are cut obliquely with one movement of the secateurs.

What weather is suitable for pruning cherries

Dry weather is required for pruning cherries in the spring season. Temperatures during the day and at night are positive.

For summer pruning a dry, cool day is coming.

Conducting autumn pruning, it is important to remember that the tree must have time to recover before the first frost.

How to properly process slices

Putty of wounds at the cut site is carried out mainly garden pitch. Paints on vegetable drying oil and petrolatum are also used.

How to reduce the growth of a tree up

Constant care of the tree, timely and properly carried out pruning, help to solve this problem.

So, biological features cherries suggest that its pruning represents mandatory procedure, without which it is impossible to obtain a crop. Pruning advice for this fruit crop, indicated in the article, will allow every gardener to grow a fruit-bearing, well-formed tree.

Sweet cherry - high fruit tree, grows up to 5–6 m in length, which creates inconvenience when harvesting, so the branches are cut annually. One of the common schemes is the formation of sweet cherries like a Spanish bush.

The "Spanish bush" shaping technique allows you to grow a low tree

Purpose of the procedure

Uncontrolled cherry growth can create many problems. Trees whose growth exceeds the established standards are characterized by poor fruiting and susceptibility to disease.

Cherry is a photophilous plant, large branches create a shadow on the central trunk, which leads to the development of diseases and pests.

It is advisable to form sweet cherries like a Spanish bush for the following reasons:

1. Simplified harvesting procedure by reducing the height of the plant.
2. More compact placement on the site (especially true if the land area is small).
3. The quality of the crop has been improved due to the good illumination of the bole.

Molding characteristic

Problems associated with too rapid growth of sweet cherries are solved by forming sweet cherries like a Spanish bush. This method involves shortening the tree to the size of a bush - 2.5 m in height. This method was first used on Spanish plantations. From one hectare of land, up to 20 tons of crops were harvested from sweet cherries, formed like a Spanish bush.

Thanks to the height limitation, harvesting is possible without the use of a ladder. The crown of a sweet cherry like a Spanish bush consists of a small trunk and 4–5 skeletal branches.

This type of formation allows you to plant trees at a distance of 3–4.5 m between rows. The quality of fruits is improving, all the forces of the tree will now be spent on their formation, and not on growing up.

It was first tested on the Iberian Peninsula. The most widespread type of pruning of the Spanish bush was in southern Europe, so it is worth considering that it is designed for a warm climate. Cherries that grow in colder climates will be less resistant to low temperatures. If the winters in the region are severe, the formation of sweet cherries like the Spanish bush can only do harm. In this case, the fruiting period begins a year or two later than the due date.

Shaping is suitable for trees growing:

1. On vigorous rootstocks on light soils.
2. On fertile soils.
3. In a temperate climate.

Branches exceeding the established dimensions of 2.5 m are removed annually. Carry out the procedure in autumn or spring. It is necessary to thin out and shorten branches that prevent light from reaching the trunk and fruits. Update old fruiting branches by making a small incision.

The structure of the cherry

To understand how a tree is thinned out, it is worth understanding its structure.

1. Shtamb - the lower part of the trunk, on which the life span, frost resistance and other properties of the tree depend. It starts at the base and ends with the nearest branch from the ground.
2. The central conductor - the most massive branch, growing in the vertical direction, is the basis of the tree skeleton.
3. Skeletal branches form the frame of the crown, they grow over the years and are untouchable.
4. Semi-skeletal branches - together with skeletal branches represent branches of the second order.
5. Continuation escape - growth of the central conductor and other branches of the previous year. They are an indicator of the health and proper development of the whole tree.
6. Vegetative shoots are responsible for the growth of the tree, they are used to propagate sweet cherries.
7. Generative overgrowing branches are classified as third order, they are responsible for the fruiting of the tree.

At one time, the branches of the sweet cherry are divided into types:

1. Growth - on them the formation of kidneys occurs. To stop the growth of the tree, it is recommended to clean them in the autumn.
2. Mixed - thick branches that bear fruit intensively and are endowed with big amount leaves.
3. Bouquet branches reach a length of no more than 30 cm, most of the fruits grow on them. In the first years of life, ripe berries quickly crumble on them, the problem disappears after 4-5 years.
4. Tops - these branches grow in a vertical direction, they never bear fruit. This type of branches is removed first of all in case of a strong weakening of the tree after frost: this step helps to reshape the crown of the tree again.
5. Summer or premature - thin branches that form from growth points on mixed shoots.

Cherry formation 1 year of planting

Landing algorithm

If you are thinking about growing cherries like a Spanish bush, you must follow a certain pattern:

1. The seedling should be on a small hill, away from ground water at least 2.5 meters.
2. The soil most suitable for the plant is sandy loam.
3. The place for growing is the sunny side of the yard.

Landing algorithm:

1. Prepare a hole in the fall, 60x60x60 cm in size, separate the black layer of earth from the red one.
2. Cover with drainage if necessary.
3. Mix the black layer with compost or humus, fall asleep back, forming a small hill.
4. Bury a two-year-old seedling evenly into the ground, the root collar should be at ground level.
5. Tamp the soil and pour water.

Trimming pattern

Of great importance in the care process is the formation of cherries. Spanish bush - a scheme that allows you to grow well-groomed, compact trees that bear fruit on your site.

1. In the first year in spring, before bud break, the tree is cut at a height of 30–75 cm. The distance depends on the desired height of the future plant. The lower the buds are on the central conductor, the shorter the tree can be. As soon as the shoots reach a height of half a meter (this happens in summer), they need to be shortened by 15 cm from the cut on the trunk. In autumn, the branches should grow back to their original size. At this moment, pull two trellises and tie them to the shoots of the second order. late autumn all shoots, except for the central and horizontally growing ones, are cut 25 cm from the length of the base. Also thin out heavily thickened places.
2. In the second year in spring, the shoots are again cut to the same length. Best time for carrying out - the flowering period. It is necessary to cut off only if the shoots have reached a length of just over half a meter. Otherwise, pruning should be delayed. In late autumn, the shoots of the third order, which should have grown to 60 cm in length, are also cut off by 25 cm, like the branches of the second order. Branches left unpruned will soon begin to bear fruit. On this main stage The formation of the Spanish bush is over. If the branches do not have time to reach the required length by the deadline, it is recommended to resort to fertilizers for additional feeding and stimulating growth.
3. In the third year, shorten the branches of the third order, leave one or two lower branches, after which the crown will begin to thicken.
4. For the rest of the tree's life, the desired shape should be maintained; for this, old branches that thicken the crown should be removed annually. In order to maintain a balance between the number of fruits and the growth of the tree, it is recommended to replace the fruiting branches as well as those outside the crown annually.

Scheme for the formation of sweet cherries according to the type of Spanish bush

Pruning guide

Pruning thick cherry branches should not be perpendicular or parallel to the trunk. In this case, the wounds will heal for a long time and poorly. In order not to harm the tree, the incision must be made along the influx. If you cannot determine its line, you need to imagine a line perpendicular to the branch and parallel to the trunk and make a cut in the middle of the corner. Thin branches are cut obliquely with a pruner.

The weather during pruning should be dry and not windy. The air temperature in spring should be above zero. In summer, you should choose a dry, non-hot day. The formation of branches in autumn is also carried out at a positive temperature and dry weather. It is advisable to do it in early autumn, because pruning is stressful for the tree, and it must have time to recover and gain strength before frost. Cut places, regardless of the time of year, are treated with garden pitch or paints on vegetable drying oil.

Cherry pruning is carried out on a dry and calm day

Conclusion

Forming cherries according to the Spanish bush pattern is an exciting activity that requires effort. Don't forget that only the right consistent approach can provide the best pruning results. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the tree after such pruning, although it is convenient for the gardener when harvesting, because under certain conditions the tree may lose its resistance to the manifestations of the external environment.