Is it possible to sow parsley in the summer. July plantings in the country

Parsley as a spicy plant has been known since ancient times in countries with a warm climate. But in the corners the globe, where summers are cooler with early frosts, the vegetable came not so long ago. The plant has gained popularity with a peculiar taste and aroma of both green petioles and root crops. For growing parsley open field no special agricultural knowledge is required. It is necessary to create a number of conditions so that the spicy culture gives useful greens all summer.

Of the species vegetable plant biennial and annual herbs are found, characterized by:

• erect stems;
• pinnate leaves of green color of dark and light tone;
• root system in the form of a cone-shaped rod;
• heart-shaped flowers of a whitish or greenish color;
• small oval seeds.

Parsley is distinguished by high resistance to low temperatures, as well as moisture-loving.

Distinguish parsley root, which in the first year of vegetation gives a fruit of cream or white color that looks like a carrot. Parsley roots are used for food as a spice, as well as for medicinal purposes. Of the popular varieties of this type of vegetable, Berlinia, Eagle, Berlin root, Sugar root are noted.

Many people prefer to grow a vegetable for greenery. Green petioles with fragrant leaves are obtained during the first year of the plant's life. They are ready for cutting already 40-60 days after germination. Without juicy spicy herbs, one cannot imagine salads, main courses, soups. Many gardeners sow parsley every 2 weeks, supplying themselves with useful herb for the whole summer period and winter.

Of the varieties of leaf parsley, it is valued:

• strong festival bush;
• early ripe Harvest;
• high-yielding Green Crystal;
• disease-resistant Natalka.

As an ornamental, curly parsley is used, in which the rosette is dense with leaves that are folded with corrugation, with wavy edges. Varieties of curly plants have been bred: Bogatyr, Esmeralda. Among the "foreigners" can be noted parsley Mooskrause, Rialto, Italian giant, Titan.

Parsley: combination with other plants

Among the secrets of vegetable growing, one can single out a competent crop rotation in a summer cottage. For every vegetable there are best predecessors And bad neighbors with which culture is difficult to get along. When this is not thought of and plants are planted at will, a rich harvest of vegetables is difficult to obtain.

For parsley, as a representative of the Umbrella family, you need a plot where before that there were beds with onions, tomatoes, zucchini, squash. Spicy grass feels good in place of cabbage, cucumbers.

The herbaceous plant is often planted together with dill, cilantro or carrots. Grass beds are located next to plantings of tomatoes and legumes.

An excellent protection for strawberries, strawberries from pests will be beds with fragrant greens.

When to plant parsley

Depending on the region of cultivation of the spicy crop, it can be grown by seedlings or immediately by seeds in the garden.

In the first method, boxes with a nutrient mixture are prepared. Then, grass seeds are placed close to each other in moist soil. Optimal timing planting for seedlings is a period of 1 month before transplanting into open ground. If propagation by roots is preferred, then planting is carried out later. For this method, root crops weighing 50-60 grams with a length of less than 15 centimeters are used. The length can be shortened by cutting off the lower part with a blade and sprinkling with wood ash.

For sowing immediately into the ground, choose the time when the snow has melted. Since the seeds are not afraid low temperatures, then at the end of April - until May 10, you can plant a vegetable. If the planting material is prepared correctly, then the seedlings will appear on the 20th day.

Until the end of July, parsley is sown every 2 weeks to be constantly with fresh herbs.

In winter, planting seeds occurs as cold weather sets in. At a daytime temperature of 2-5 degrees Celsius and with slight frosts at night, dry seeds are already placed in the grooves, sprinkled with soil on top. It is necessary to protect them from germination so that the spice does not die. To do this, cover the bed with mulch, and on top with a film. The main thing in pre-winter sowing is that the weather becomes colder and snow falls faster, which will save the seeds from freezing and death.

seedling preparation

If you want to get parsley leaves already in the middle of spring, you need to adopt a seedling method of cultivation:

1. Boxes are prepared in advance with a depth of 20-30 centimeters. Having disinfected the container, fill nutrient soil. It is good when there is a layer of drainage below, which will allow moisture not to stagnate in the container.
2. The soil is needed in two parts garden soil and one part of peat and humus.
3. It is better to immediately feed the soil mixture with mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium.
4. Leaf varieties are selected with early ripening.
5. Before placing the seeds in the soil, they are disinfected for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate.
6. Seeds are planted in the holes to a depth of 1.5-2 centimeters.
7. After planting, the soil is watered abundantly with water. room temperature.

For seedlings to appear on time, they need Fresh air, regular watering. The air temperature should not exceed 20 degrees, not be lower than 17.

At the level of two leaves, seedlings are thinned out, leaving a distance between them of 1-2 centimeters. Two weeks before transplanting, parsley seedlings begin to harden it, taking it out into the open air.

Vegetable seedlings can be grown in containers on a windowsill or in a greenhouse.

Features of planting parsley in open ground

More often, open ground is chosen for growing herbs, so as not to bother caring for seedlings.

In a lighted place, the soil is prepared in advance. In autumn, rotted manure or compost 4-5 kilograms per square meter beds. It is also necessary to think about mineral fertilizers if a vegetable is planted in the winter.

Seed preparation includes soaking in:

• warm water for a day;
• growth stimulator;
• vodka solution for 20 minutes;
• infusion wood ash at 5 o'clock.

Choose one of the methods that will allow the seeds to germinate faster in the ground. To force germination, a little quicklime is added to the grooves. But just soaked in water, seeds in moist soil will germinate rapidly.

At autumn planting planting material must be dry, otherwise its rapid germination will lead to the death of seedlings from frost.

Parsley seeds are planted along with a small percentage of lettuce seeds. The latter sprout faster, and they determine the direction of seedlings. So it is better to loosen the soil, helping the seeds break through the crust.

The planting depth of parsley is 2 centimeters. It is better to plant parsley in the country with two-line ribbons with a distance of 40-50 centimeters between them.

Seedlings of a vegetable plant will appear in 15-20 days.

Many propagate the vegetable with roots. The prepared product, cut to 8-10 centimeters and disinfected, is buried inside the soil, leaving a stump 2 centimeters above the ground. Greenery will begin to form in 2 weeks. It remains only to properly care for her.

How to properly care

The spicy root crop is unpretentious, it is easy to care for it. But the agricultural technology of fragrant culture cannot be imagined without:

• regular watering;
• fertilizer application;
• thinning;
• loosening and weeding beds;
• obligatory pruning of petioles with green leaves.

The appearance of seedlings in the garden is a signal for inter-row cultivation of plantings with a chopper or cultivator to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. The procedure is done 3-4 times during the summer.

Between shoots, weeds are fought manually.

The first thinning at the level of 2 leaves is carried out, leaving a distance of 2 centimeters, after a month - 5 centimeters. Those shoots that are pulled out are used for their intended purpose in food or for canning.

Watering parsley

Water the bed with vegetables every 2-4 weeks, depending on weather conditions. Plants should not be over-moistened. They wither, stop growing.

For humidification use water at room temperature, settled.

Parsley top dressing

During the growing season, the vegetable needs top dressing in the form of organic and mineral complexes. If manure was applied to the site before planting, then after the first thinning of the plants, a complex of ammonium nitrate (15 grams), potassium salts (10 grams) and superphosphate (20 grams) is introduced. All components are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

The second time, 2-3 weeks after the first procedure, increase the amount nutrients 1.5 times.

Fertilize the bed with grass along with moistening the soil. So useful elements are better absorbed, accelerating the vegetation of the vegetable.

parsley pruning

Leaf varieties of the plant are regularly pruned so that the growth of greenery occurs constantly. For the procedure, shoots with a height of 10 centimeters are chosen. It's better to start cutting with outside bush. No need to pinch off just the tops. Cut shoots to the ground. In this case, the restoration of the bush will go faster.

Pruning at the end of summer is done in order to prepare the greens for storage for the winter. Later, twigs and leaves will begin to lose their juiciness and useful properties.

Protection against diseases and pests

Of the fungal diseases, the plant is more often faced with:

• powdery mildew;
• stolbur;
• alternariosis, or black rot;
• white spotting, or septoria;
• rust.

Pathologies appear as a result of improper care. You can determine the infection by spots on the leaves, their drying.

To get rid of the lesion, special preparations are used: "Hom", "Barrier". For prevention, they fight with plant residues, destroying them.

Harvest and storage

Parsley is harvested depending on how much it grows. There are varieties that take 55-60 days to reach technical maturity, others - 100 days are not enough. Greens are pruned during the entire growing season of the plant. It is frozen or dried to be added to food in winter. The yield per 1 square meter ranges from 2 to 5 kilograms.

Harvesting vegetable roots in the fall ends no later than September 25th. The fruits are cleaned from the ground, give time to dry. Then they are placed in basements or cellars with good ventilation and air temperature within 0 degrees. Root crops are better preserved in wet sand.

Chopped or chopped roots are dried under a canopy and placed in glass jars. Sliced ​​fruits are also frozen, used as a seasoning for dishes.

It's hard to imagine without parsley small vegetable garden summer resident and fields of modern farming. Having become a valuable agricultural crop in ancient times, parsley from the shores of the Mediterranean Sea gradually spread to almost all continents.

In Russia, both leaf and root parsley are planted, and both varieties with the usual leaf shape and curly are grown on greens.

It is possible to distinguish a root crop from a leaf crop by a dense, cone-shaped, even root crop, like leaves, rich in vitamins, sugars, aromatic substances and trace elements. In leaf parsley, the roots are uncommonly thinner and more branched. Greenery is given by both types of plants.

Therefore, the cultivation of parsley in open ground is carried out with two goals:

• to obtain root crops and greens, for which the crop is planted with seeds;
• for forcing fresh foliage obtained by planting the roots of the previous year.

Methods for planting and caring for parsley in the open field

The peculiarity of parsley is that in the first season all the forces of the plant go to the growth of both foliage and roots. If the root crop is planted in the second year or left to winter, a rosette of leaves will appear in April, and parsley will bloom in summer. For growing parsley in open ground, several methods are used to get the earliest and most abundant crop of greens.

If in the spring parsley was planted in open ground with seeds, then the grown plants can be left into the winter. So that parsley has time to prepare for completion growing season, it is better to cut the leaves from it no later than September, and with the advent of cold weather, the plants are spudded and covered with a layer of mulch from foliage, straw or needles.

With the onset of spring and the melting of snow, the mulch is removed, and a film shelter is made over the beds. How long to wait for the leaves to appear, and how much parsley sprouts in this case? Fresh parsley will arrive on the table in April, and the leaves can be cut until the peduncle rises above the rosette.

If parsley is not left in the soil for the winter, then root crops stored in the basement in early spring:

• shorten to 12–15 cm;
• cleaned of dried and rotten foliage and petioles;
• treated with a stimulant for better root formation;
• planted under a film, leaving a gap of 8–10 cm between plants.

So parsley will give three early crops of greenery.

The main method is planting parsley seeds in open ground. It is important to bear in mind that the culture does not differ in rapid germination. Therefore, parsley is often sown with germinated seeds from early spring until July. In this case, the culture has time to produce one crop and can successfully overwinter.

Root varieties are sown no later than mid-May, so that parsley has time to form a full-fledged root crop.

Dry seeds fall into the soil before winter. In this case, they are embedded in the ground from the second half of October until the frost, and when the snow cover is established, they are additionally sprinkled with snow. In spring, such crops, which begin development already at 4°C, can be grown under a film or in open ground, since parsley grown in open ground is not afraid of even frosts down to -9°C.

Applicable to the cultivation of leaf parsley and seedling method. Germinated seeds first grow in peat cups or tablets, and in April, at the age of 30–40 days, they are transplanted into open ground. As a result of using this technique, you can get early greens and spend up to six fees per summer season.

Planting parsley seeds in open ground

Due to the frost resistance of parsley seeds, this crop is sown starting in early spring. Is it possible to plant parsley in July, will the plant have time to give greenery? Until the end of July or the first decade of August, leafy varieties can be sown. If parsley is intended for obtaining root crops, then it is unlikely that you will have to wait for a good result from plants sown after mid-May.

July sowings of green varieties can give foliage in the second half of summer, then leave before winter and give a harvest next year.

Without pre-training parsley seeds hatch extremely slowly. How much does parsley grow? This usually happens no earlier than 2-3 weeks later. Seed collected no earlier than a year ago has greater growth energy and germination, but in this case, germination can be accelerated:

• Before spring or summer sowing in open ground, the seed is soaked in water with a temperature of 18–22 ° C.
• The water in the seed container is changed every 3-4 hours.
• After 2–3 days, it is left in a solution of a growth stimulator or microelements for another 18 hours. It is better if oxygen is passed through the liquid at this time, which will speed up the process of hatching the seed.
• Seedlings from hatched seeds appear within a week.

Per square meter of ridge when planting parsley in open ground with seeds, about 1 gram of prepared seeds is required. If the crop is sown in the summer, then before planting in the soil, the ridges are watered abundantly, and the number of seeds per meter of area is increased by a third.

Growing parsley in the open field involves maintaining a small interval between individual plants, from 4 to 12 cm, depending on the type and variety:

• Root parsley is sown with an interval of 1-4 cm, while the seeds fall into the groove one by one.
• leaf parsley regular varieties sown at a distance of 10–12 cm, and curly at an interval of 8–10 cm. This crop is sown 3 or 4 seeds per nest, followed by thinning.

The depth of sowing parsley seeds during spring or summer sowing is 6-10 mm, in autumn the grooves are made twice as deep.

After planting parsley in open ground with seeds and powdering the furrows, the soil is slightly compacted, plantings are carried out, which are mulched or covered with a film from above.

Parsley care when grown outdoors

When choosing a site for planting and caring for parsley in the open field, it is better to give preference to beds where zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers or tomatoes used to grow. Re-sowing after parsley or other umbrella plants is carried out after three to four years. Parsley, especially root varieties, requires loose, cultivated soil rich in organic matter.

Excessive soil density leads to deformities of root crops, seeds germinate worse and slower.

In autumn, when a plot is prepared for parsley, when digging per square meter, 3 to 5 kg of rotted manure or humus are added. After the snow melts, the beds are fertilized comprehensively. In this case, there are 4 kg of compost, 15 grams, 10 grams of potassium chloride and 20 grams of saltpeter per square meter.

Until shoots appear above the soil surface, the care and cultivation of parsley consists in careful watering and ventilation of crops under the film. Emerging weeds are removed, and after germination, not only weeding is added to the measures for caring for parsley planted in open ground, but also loosening the soil, top dressing and thinning of seedlings, which is carried out at the stage of 2-3 cut real leaves.

Before the formation of a full-fledged leaf rosette, parsley is fed twice with infusion of mullein or compost. For 8-10 liters of water, take 1 kg of organic matter, about 15 grams of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate. In August, plants, and especially those grown for root crops, should no longer receive nitrogen-containing fertilizers so that this element does not accumulate in the roots and aerial parts of the plant.

Parsley, planted in open ground with seeds, responds well to foliar top dressing with microelements, which are also arranged twice during the growing season.

Parsley tolerates hot days well, but the greens, devoid of moisture, become noticeably rougher and tougher, but it better accumulates aromatic substances and essential oils:

• If parsley is intended for fresh consumption, the plant needs watering to provide 60–70% soil moisture.
• To get more fragrant raw materials for drying, parsley is limited in watering a couple of weeks before harvest.

The collection of cold-resistant parsley can be carried out until late autumn, until frost begins.

At the same time, root crops for storage are harvested. Plants that remain to winter in the ground are gently spudded and mulched.

How to grow parsley - video

Parsley may not be loved by everyone, but in cooking it is difficult to do without it. The leaves of the plant are used in salads, first and second courses. The root is an indispensable “additive” to the broth during the preparation of the aspic. It would seem that everything is clear, if not for one moment - parsley must first be grown. Moreover, it will grow something only if the seeds have sprouted. About where to start, how to do it, when, and the conversation will go.

Determining the time of work and landing site

According to the place of cultivation, the culture is the same as all other garden crops, that is, it prefers the sun in a “quiet” area protected from the winds. But this is ideally real life, if the plant is inspected, the leaves and root grow very well and develop in partial shade. The soil on which root parsley is grown must necessarily be loose, in dense roots crooked and underdeveloped. For a sheet, this condition is not necessary. Crop rotation - some gardeners are sure that you can not comply, but this is a separate opinion. It was noticed that if parsley was sown in open ground in the spring after cucumbers, potatoes and cabbage, the yield was less, after tomatoes, beets and pumpkins - more.

Since the culture is quite cold-resistant, sowing can be started immediately after the soil has frozen, even if the ground is clearly cold to the touch. The only thing to do with early sowing is to cover the beds, for example with a film. The benefit will be threefold: the earth will warm up faster, and the seeds will sprout faster, and frost will not kill the seedlings. If without risk in already warm soil, the first time the leaf is sown in the beginning or middle of April, then until August they are gradually sown. It is advisable to plant root seeds before mid-May, so there is a high probability that the root will have time to mature before the end of the season.

Selection and preparation of seeds

Unlike the same dill, parsley seeds are selected according to two criteria. The first is store-bought or personally grown planting material. The second - depending on what crop you need to get, choose the seeds of parsley leaf or root. In the first case, everything is like in other cultures - you buy in the store, hoping to use your own with complete confidence. The difference between leaf and root, meaning the initial stage of cultivation, is only in terms of sowing, the methods of preparing the first and second are the same.

Seed preparation - at the first stage, it can be carried out in two ways.

Method 1. Planting material is poured with water or a disinfectant solution (phytosporin, a weak concentration of potassium permanganate solution). The total soaking time is about 2 days. But during these days the water is changed every day in the morning, afternoon and evening.

Method 2. Seeds at the same time are placed in a cloth abundantly moistened with water or a solution.

Who really wants the fastest appearance of sprouts, can withstand planting material in a growth stimulator for another day. After that, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator for stratification for 3 days, then immediately planted.

Bed preparation

Alternatively, planting parsley in open ground in spring with seeds can only go into dug up and fertilized soil, if you rush. If, for a good harvest, the soil is dug up in the fall, fertilized 2 times. Before winter, organics are added (half a bucket of humus, peat or compost) plus minerals (superphosphate and potassium salt, 15-20 grams each). In the spring add the same amount of urea. The amount of mineral fertilizers is calculated per 1 m². Some gardeners, so that chemistry and organics do not mix, everything mineral fertilizers left for the spring. How better and better in a particular garden, you need to try it yourself.

Landing

Before sowing the seeds, the beds are drawn. As for the distance between the rows, for root parsley, for leaf parsley, from 15 to 20 centimeters is enough. Leaf, depending on the variety, meaning how lush the bush will be, is sown at a distance of 7-10 centimeters. Root - about 4 centimeters. Moreover, so that later during thinning it was possible to choose and leave the strongest plant, several seeds are laid in one hole. It is not recommended to make very deep grooves, 1 centimeter is enough. With regard to watering the furrows before planting, there may be options. There are two recommendations: the first is to lay the seeds, sprinkle with earth and water, the second is to first shed the grooves well with water, then sow the seeds and sprinkle them without additional watering. As for higher quality and fast shoots the second option is preferable, because when watering after sowing, everything that was in the ground can be washed up.

Watering and fertilizing

If the planting of parsley in open ground in the spring was carried out in beds well fertilized with organic matter and minerals, additional feeding may not be in place. But a small or even normal harvest is not always satisfactory for everyone. Lovers are very a large number greens and large root crops can feed parsley, only without fanaticism.

To build exactly the green mass, as soon as the leaves began to look like small bouquet, from organics, mullein infusion is recommended, 1 part fertilizer to 8 parts water.

The mass of root crops is increased by feeding plantings ammonium nitrate, 10 grams per square.

It should only be borne in mind that the introduced chemistry not only helps to increase the yield of root crops, it is to all its positive qualities can quickly accumulate in the leaves.

With watering, everything is as always - moderate ones are welcome, but there are nuances. A lot of water leads to the development of rust, black rot and powdery mildew. With a small amount of water to dry out, the parsley does not dry out, but the leaves and roots become somewhat rougher and tougher than with normal watering. However, the number essential oils increases, the leaves become more fragrant.

Sometimes the question arises as to whether sowing parsley in open ground in spring with seeds will yield a greater yield than when winter sowing. Planting time is unlikely to affect the overall harvest, but when you want to have fragrant twigs at the beginning of the season as early as possible, then, of course, pre-winter sowing is preferable.

Along with this article, they usually read:

Planting dill - it would seem a simple matter, scattered the seeds around the garden and did it. There is also such a type of "landing". But truly fragrant dill grows only if you do not scatter anything, but sow it correctly on right place. And to get good harvest, seeds and beds should be prepared. How to do it? The Gardener and Gardener will tell about this.

Parsley is a beneficial spice. Unlike other fragrant plants, it uses both the aerial part and the root for food. It is unpretentious in cultivation, requires almost no care. If you only know when, where and how to plant it correctly, including before winter.

Unfortunately, not always winter period can be seen on dining table fresh fragrant parsley. Either they didn’t bring it to the store, or they were too lazy to leave the house and spend time buying one or two bunches of greens. You can survive its absence, but when food is seasoned with pretty fragrant leaves, life during the garden "off-season" becomes more fun and "tastier".

When you need beets to prepare a salad, main course or the same beetroot, where do people go? That's right, some to the store, others to the garden. It's easier in the store, but you buy what you have. It will take a little work in the garden, but you choose the best. How does the cultivation of beets begin and what conditions for planting seeds must be met, the Gardener and Gardener will tell.

Average summer cottages cannot boast of having large territories on which you can land whatever your heart desires. Therefore, the same beds have to be used for planting several crops per season. In the end May - early June, enough space should be freed up after harvesting early cultures, and right now there is a dilemma: leave them empty or try to grow something else. If you choose the second option, then we will tell you what you can plant in June in the garden. Vegetables and herbs planted at this time still have enough chances for development and maturation. The main thing at the same time is to choose winter-hardy and late varieties that can withstand the unexpected onset of early frosts.

Planting greenery in June

The beginning of summer is wonderful for growing herbs such as dill, lettuce, basil, parsley, sorrel, celery, chives, garlic, and fennel. Herbs planted at this time can be used for food in two months.

For planting dill, the second decade of the month is best suited. It can be placed on the beds after early crops: cabbage, radish, cucumbers. Also good site for growing dill at this time there will be one that is under the sun only until lunch, and in the afternoon it remains in the shade.

Did you know? In order for dill seeds to germinate faster, they must be soaked in hot water before planting.

It is very important to sow dill in moist soil, and then water it regularly. When the soil dries out, the plant will go into the trunk and no longer give leaves. Before sowing, humus or complex fertilizers. In the future, you do not need to feed dill. In order for the plant not to give umbrellas for as long as possible, it is necessary to avoid thickening of plantings. Dill grows quickly: 40 days pass from planting to harvesting greens. Autumn dill is more juicy and aromatic.

From what else to plant in the garden in June, basil can be advised. It is sown in the first half of the month. But not earlier than the 10th, since until that moment there is still a high probability of night frosts. In more early term the plant can only be planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

For basil, a well-lit area is assigned, which will need to be fertilized with humus. Seeds are sown shallowly, a maximum of 1 cm. The wells are well watered beforehand. Seeds are sown at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Row spacing should not be narrower than 20 cm.

Important!Planting work in the garden different cultures in June it should be done on a dry and cloudy day or at sunset.

The first shoots should be well watered, and reduce watering only during flowering. When the first true leaves grow, the basil can begin to fertilize. For this, complex mineral fertilizers are used. They are posted twice a month.

For good development and crop growth, the distance between adult plants should be 20-25 cm. Therefore, when the sprouts begin to grow, they will need to be thinned out. The plant reaches its strongest aroma during the flowering period, it is then that it is cut off for drying for seasoning.

We plant root celery in the garden at the beginning of summer, in the first half of June. For him, light areas or land in a light shade are suitable, on which any vegetable crops previously grew.
Celery is planted from seedlings according to the 20 x 30 scheme. When planting, they do not destroy the earthen room. The plant does not need to be deeply buried in the soil.

Celery does not like waterlogging and drought. It will need to be watered throughout the summer. Under no circumstances should you screw up. Celery leaves are used for food all season, tubers are dug up in mid-October.

Batun onions can be sown three times per season: in spring, summer and autumn. The second sowing of seeds is carried out in June-July. It can be planted in the place where they grew early vegetables, necessarily in partial shade, because under the bright sun it will fade. In the place where the onion previously grew, this plant is not recommended to be planted.
The beds are fertilized with compost. The seeds are deepened into the ground by 1-1.5 cm, and at the end of sowing, the soil is abundantly watered and mulched. After the emergence of seedlings, they are thinned out - the intervals between plants should be 9 cm. In the heat, onions must be watered every other day, in auspicious time- two times a week. Mandatory element caring for a batun is loosening, as well as the timely removal of arrows. If they are not removed, the onion will become tough. Feathers are cut off for consumption. After each pruning, the plants are fertilized with mullein or wood ash.

Vegetable can be planted both with the help of seedlings, and directly in open ground. In the latter case, with a long daylight hours, the plant can skip the growth phase of “heads of cabbage”, it has a rapid formation and stretching of shoots. This means that it is better to sow fennel at the end of June, already when the length of the day begins to wane, that is, after the 22nd. Open sunny or slightly shaded areas are suitable for planting it.
The deepening of the seeds during sowing should be 2 cm. The first shoots must be expected in 10-14 days. The distance between plants should be left 40-50 cm. Fennel care is simple and consists in watering and periodic loosening of the soil.

And about what vegetables are planted in the garden in June, you can learn in detail from the following sections.

Planting vegetables in June

From vegetable crops in the first weeks of June, you can plant beets, carrots, legumes, corn, radishes, turnips, tomatoes, cucumbers. Eggplants and peppers are planted under the film.

There are several conditions that must be observed when planting vegetables in the garden at this time. With the onset of extreme heat, vegetables are helped to cope with it through the introduction of dressings. For normal growth and fruit set during this period, fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are recommended. In the second half of summer, feeding should be stopped.

It is also important not to over water with water, even on particularly dry days. For carrots, squash, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, beets, when planting them in the garden in June, two plentiful waterings per week will be enough.

The soil under the vegetables should be loosened more often, always after watering. It is desirable to cover the location of the roots from the sun. You can add humus, peat or sawdust to the soil.

Carrots are sown in the first or second decade of the month. Choose areas where cabbage, potatoes, greens previously grew. They should be light, without the presence of a shadow.

If carrots are planted for food, then choose early varieties, for storage - medium and late. For planting during this period, varieties such as Flakke, Incomparable, Shantane, Losinoostrovskaya are suitable.

Did you know? Planting carrots in June avoids carrot flea attacks.

To start the process of seed germination faster, they are kept for five days in warm water. Then for a day placed in a refrigerator for hardening at a temperature of 0°C.

On the beds, five longitudinal grooves or transverse grooves are made, leaving 18-20 cm between them. The recesses are watered. Seeds in them fall asleep at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other. The grooves are mulched with peat and covered with foil. Shoots should hatch in 5-6 days, after which they will need to be thinned out. In the future, the soil should be loosened regularly. Carrots must be harvested before the onset of cold weather, in September.

Gardeners say that it is perfectly possible to plant beets in June. It is placed in sunny areas. Seeds are soaked in warm water before sowing, they must be sown dry. Shoots are shown in 1.5-2 weeks. When they grow to 3 cm in height, they will need to be thinned out. Watering is carried out every two weeks.

Did you know? Beets, carrots, and radishes planted in June keep much longer and better than those sown in spring.

It is important to harvest before the arrival of the first frost, in October. Beets are suitable for winter storage in dry sand.

Radishes love the sun, so they should be planted in the garden in open and well-lit beds. This vegetable crop can be sown in place of cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes.
Planting holes are dug 1-2 cm deep. They are placed at a distance of 4-6 cm from each other. 8-10 cm are left between the beds. One seed is placed in each hole, after which the beds will need to be covered. Radishes require frequent watering.

The list of vegetables for planting in the garden in June can be continued with cabbage. It is grown using seedlings, which are recommended to be planted in open ground after June 10. Seedlings are prepared for 3-4 weeks. In the garden, it is better to plant it in places where legumes, potatoes, beets, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions grew before. Landing pattern: 40x25. After planting for two to three days, seedlings will need to be covered from sunlight.
This type of cabbage is moisture-loving. Watering will need to be carried out every two to three days at first after planting and once a week thereafter, until ripening. Watering is accompanied by loosening the soil. After 20 days, hilling is carried out. Repeat the procedure after 10 days. Also, after 20 days, the first top dressing is introduced in the form of liquid mullein.

When planting from the 10th to the 20th, ripe stalks can be harvested at the end of July. They are ready for use when they reach 8-10 cm in diameter.

Corn

Suitable for sowing corn sunny plot protected from the wind. Desirable predecessors are cabbage, peas, potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes. It is necessary to sow corn at a time when the probability of frost is reduced to zero. Usually - after the 10th (the earth should warm up to +8 ... +10 ° С). High temperatures (above +30 °C) when sowing corn adversely affect its fertilization.
The plant is planted and seedling way, and sowing seeds in open ground. In the first case, seedlings are sown in April, and planted in the garden in June. Directly on open beds sowing takes place in June. Landing pattern: 30x50. Seeding depth: 2-5 cm. 2-4 seeds are placed in each hole. Crops are watered abundantly. A desirable measure would be to cover the beds with a film, which will allow the seeds to germinate faster and protect the sprouts from unforeseen frosts.

After the appearance of sprouts and the second leaf, the seedlings are thinned out so that one plant remains in each hole. Watering is carried out once a week. Of the care measures necessary are loosening and weeding of the soil, hilling, fertilizing with potassium once every two weeks.

In June, you can also sow beans and peas. The air temperature favorable for their growth is +20...+25 °С, soil - +12...+14 °С. They can be preceded by cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers.

Beans in June can be planted twice:in the period from the 17th to the 19th and from the 28th to the 30th. It is sown in three rows in a checkerboard pattern. Two seeds are placed in the hole, which must first be kept in a solution of potassium permanganate (1%). The planting depth is 3-6 cm. The distance between the holes is 20-30 cm, the row-spacing is 30-45 cm.
In order not to worry much about watering and loosening, it is advisable to mulch the soil. In the future, the beans will require regular weeding. The crop can be harvested from late August to early October, depending on the variety and weather conditions.

Peas in the summer can be planted until July 10, while choosing early-ripening varieties for planting. Peas are sown in furrows, fertilized with compost or humus, at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, deepening into the soil up to 5 cm. Shoots should be expected in 7-10 days.

Planting seedlings in open ground

From the third week of June comes the most suitable period for planting seedlings of heat-loving plants. It is undesirable to do this before June 10, since night frosts are still possible in some regions. Although, of course, everything will depend on the climate of the region in which you live, and on the weather observed this season. In order for the chances of seedling growth in open ground to be high, it is advisable to harden it before planting. To do this, they try to take her out of the room to the street every day. Hardening starts from half an hour, gradually increasing the time the seedlings stay under open sky for 10-15 minutes. So the sprouts quickly adapt to new growing conditions in the open field, the sun, wind, etc., and become more resilient to adverse weather conditions.

In any case, at first, young plants will need to be covered in daytime because the scorching sun can destroy them. To do this, use, for example, paper caps.

Important! It is necessary to protect seedlings from the sun with the help of shelters for the first two weeks after planting.

An important condition for planting seedlings will be planting them in open ground in the evening, after the heat subsides.

Before planting, plants are carefully inspected and culled out diseased or too weak. The roots are shortened by one third. Sprouts are planted in well-moistened beds without destroying the clod of earth on the root system. Do not deepen the plants too much, as this can cause a slowdown in their growth.

After planting, and for the next five days, seedlings should be well watered. You can also sprinkle peat on the bed so that it retains moisture, and the earth does not crust over.

Did you know? The fact that the seedlings have taken root will be indicated by the appearance of morning dew on the edges of the leaves two or three days after planting. This process is called gutation.

Pepper seedlings begin to harden 10-15 days before planting in open ground. It can be transferred to the garden from the first week of the month. However, you should pay attention to the temperature of the soil and the readiness of the sprouts for planting - they should have 8-10 leaves and several buds, and also reach a height of 20-30 cm.
Planting should be deep, in well-watered soil. In the future, pepper should also be watered abundantly, using warm water. The distance between plants should be at least 40 cm. It is advisable to remove the first buds.

Tomato seedlings should be planted in the first weeks of June (the earth should warm up to +12 ° C). A well-lit area is suitable for planting, but if some plants grew on it before, then it is advisable not to plant tomatoes in the same beds.
Sprouts choose strong, with well-developed roots. The optimal length of the stem should be 20 cm. use vertical way landing. If the seedlings are overgrown, then they are planted with a slight slope. It is better if the landing is carried out in well-watered soil.

In the first days after planting, the plants may look sluggish, but in the future they should be accepted and develop normally.

Seedlings of cucumbers, even in June, are best planted in greenhouses and hotbeds, since this is very thermophilic culture. Cold-resistant varieties are selected for open ground. At the same time, pay attention to nighttime temperatures. When it gets colder, seedlings will need to be covered with foil, paper caps, etc.
Planting is carried out on high beds in well-drained soil. The distance between the shoots should be 50 cm.

If it is initially planned to plant cucumbers under the film, then the beds will need to be prepared in advance. They are made 80-90 cm wide, and small grooves 30 cm wide and deep are dug in the center. fresh manure, and then, over the entire width, a 20-centimeter layer of humus is poured. The beds are covered with a film using a frame. Three days later, cucumber seedlings are planted on the prepared soil, along the edges of the beds. The same planting method can be applied to tomato seedlings.

cabbage seedling

Seedling white cabbage preparing for landing for 60 days. In early June, medium and late varieties are transplanted into the ground. The presence of 4-6 leaves and a stem height of 15-20 cm should indicate that the seedlings are ready for planting. The planting pattern can have several options: 70x30 cm, 50x40 cm, 50x50 cm, 40x40 cm.

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Vegetable garden without herbs It's like a pond without fish. Summer residents who are keen on breeding them often wonder how to plant parsley so that it quickly sprouts. There is a place for it in any area, and competent care, which even beginners can handle, will allow you to feast on its fragrant and vitamin-rich greens until late autumn.

Varieties of parsley and their features

Parsley breeding has its own secrets. First you need to decide what it is grown for, and choose the right variety.

There are only 2 varieties of parsley:

• sheet;
• root.

The first is also widely known under the names of ordinary and curly. It is cultivated for the sake of greenery, the thin and highly branched underground parts of the plant are inedible. Root parsley will appeal to lovers of sauces and pickles. The most valuable part of it is in the soil. It is a fleshy and thick yellow-white root crop, shaped like a cone or spindle. The high content of vitamins, microelements, sugars and aromatic substances makes it very useful.

The leaves of root parsley are coarser and less fragrant. They can be used as seasoning various dishes. But cut the greens only when the root crop is fully ripe. If you hurry, the plant will not have enough strength to form it and it will not bring a rich harvest.

Cold-resistant and unpretentious parsley is a biennial culture. In the first year of life, it forms a rosette of green leaves and intensively builds up the underground part, in the second year it blooms and brings seeds. Practice 2 ways to plant it:

• seeds;
• rhizome obtained from last year's plant.

To get roots and leaves, seeds are sown in the spring. Planting parsley with a rhizome is used for forcing fresh herbs. Fragrant leaves are cut from it already in April, and the flowering of the plant will begin in the summer.

You can not dig up the rhizome in the fall, but let it winter in the garden. The result will be the same.

Site preparation

Parsley grows well in fertile loose soil. Suitable for her neutral or slightly acidic soil. In the garden it is better to allocate for culture open to the sun or semi-shaded place that is well protected from drafts.

Growing parsley outdoors will be successful after the following plants:

• cabbage crops;
• Luke;
• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• zucchini;
• pumpkins;
• potatoes.

If on the site last season there were beds with her relatives in the family: carrots, coriander, dill, celery, cumin, then it will be possible to start sowing parsley seeds only after 3-4 years. Experienced summer residents make mixed beds with it, planting a crop between bushes of radishes, peas, peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers.

The plot for parsley is prepared in advance. The dependence here is direct: how much work to invest at this stage and how much effort to spend on caring for plantings, so much harvest and the plant will bring. During autumn work in the garden, the soil is deeply dug up, enriching it with compost. In the spring it will be enough to loosen the soil and fertilize it mineral compositions which contain a lot of potassium and phosphorus. The plant responds well to the introduction of urea and ammonium nitrate.

Little tricks

Most often, parsley is planted from seeds. The main difficulty in breeding it is that it rises rather slowly. To speed up this process, professionals recommend germinating seeds before sowing.

There is another, more laborious way. It is suitable only for leaf varieties of parsley and consists in growing them through seedlings. More time will have to be spent on caring for it, but fresh greens will appear on the table earlier, and it will be possible to cut it up to 6 times over the summer. Sowing of hatched seeds is carried out in or in separate cups at the end of February or in March, depending on the climate of the area. You can plant them on the beds at the age of 30-40 days. This is usually done in April.

In open ground, seeds begin to be sown in early spring. If leaf varieties are selected for breeding, you can do this later - in June and July. With this planting, they will bring one crop and gain strength to survive the winter. Root parsley is more demanding on the timing of sowing. The latest is held in mid-May. If you plant seeds in the second half of the month or in June, the root crop of the plant will not have time to ripen.

Parsley reproduces well by self-sowing. Its ripe seeds fall to the ground in autumn. So that they do not freeze, they need to be embedded in the soil. Carry out the procedure from mid-October until the start of frost. When snow falls, it is raked to a plot with a future bed, creating additional protection for the seeds from the cold. If you provide them with such care, parsley sprouts very early. Its sprouts will appear from the ground when the air warms up to 4˚C. They can be covered with a film, but it is easier to leave them to develop in open ground, because parsley easily withstands even significant frosts (down to -9˚C).

Sowing on beds

When sowing untreated seeds, the culture sprouts only after 2-3 weeks. Planting material is better to take not fresh, but at least a year old - it has more growth energy. But if you properly prepare the seeds, parsley will appear out of the ground faster. It is not difficult to do this, but how much time will this care save!

Presowing treatment of seeds takes place in 2 stages.

1. First, they are soaked for 2-3 days in warm (18-22˚C) water, renewing it after 3-4 hours.
2. Then the seeds are placed in a solution of a growth stimulant or fertilizer containing trace elements, where they are kept for 18 hours. It is optimal if oxygen enters the container with the nutrient liquid. So the seeds will hatch even faster.

Sprouted parsley sown on the beds will sprout in 7 days. Calculate how much you need planting material, simple: 1 g of seeds is spent on 1 m² of soil surface. When sowing in June (and until the beginning of August), this amount is increased by ⅓. Before planting parsley, the beds are well shed.

The sowing pattern depends on the variety. If parsley is leafy, 10-12 cm should remain between adjacent bushes. Its curly varieties can be planted a little more often - at a distance of 8-10 cm. Having marked the groove, nests are made, observing the recommended interval. 3-4 seeds are dipped into each. When shoots appear, they are thinned out. Root parsley is sown even thicker, leaving 1-4 cm between neighboring plants. Seeds are laid out in a row one at a time.

When planting in spring and summer, parsley should be under a 6–10 mm layer of soil. IN autumn period embedment depth is doubled.

Having finished planting the seeds, they are sprinkled with soil, slightly compacting it. Then the beds are watered and mulched. It will make it easier further care for landings. You can cover them with foil.

Care rules

Until the young parsley emerges from the soil, caring for it includes careful watering and timely removal of weeds. If a film shelter is used, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. With the advent of seedlings, loosening of the soil and top dressing are added to these activities.

Plantings are thinned out when 2-3 true leaves are formed on the sprouts.

While a leaf rosette is being formed on the plants, care is taken twice in the form of dressings. Parsley likes organic fertilizers- infused mullein or compost. A nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 1 kg of the substance per 8-10 liters of water. It is good to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate to it (15 g each). In August, parsley ceases to need nitrogen. It is especially important to exclude this element when growing its root varieties in order to avoid its accumulation in fruits. Twice a season it is worth feeding the plantings with microelements. It is better to do this in a non-root way.

Parsley is not afraid of heat. But on hot days you need to water it more often. With a lack of moisture, the leaves of the plant become stiff, although more fragrant. If parsley is grown for the sake of fresh herbs, care in the form of watering should increase soil moisture to 60-70%.

The leaves of the plant can be dried. To make them more fragrant, watering is greatly reduced 1.5-2 weeks before they are cut.

Plants give greenery until the frost, so they are left in the garden until late autumn. It is not worth rushing to dig up root crops; they start harvesting at the same time. If parsley will overwinter on the site, caring for it includes careful hilling and mulching. For it, you can use straw or needles. In order for the plants to better endure the cold, in September all the leaves are cut off from them. With the advent of spring, when the snow melts, the mulch is removed, and the beds are covered with foil.

Root crops are stored in the basement. To obtain early harvest parsley, in the spring they are planted in the ground. But first they need to be processed: shortened to 12-15 cm, cleaned of old foliage, soaked in a growth stimulator. After that, they are placed on the beds, leaving 8-10 cm between them, and then they are grown under a film cover.

The cultivation of parsley in the gardens has already become a tradition for many. From the beginning of spring to the end of autumn, it brings fresh greens to gardeners, which will favorably set off the taste of any vegetable or vegetable. meat dish. Salads, soups, stews, sauces, marinades - everywhere it will be appropriate. Its leaves are good fresh, but they can be used to make fragrant preparations for the winter by freezing or drying.

There is a place for parsley on any, even quite small plot. It is difficult to find another as unpretentious and equally useful plant. The only difficulty that can be encountered when breeding it is that while waiting for the emergence of seedlings, you will have to be patient. But it is also completely solvable. One has only to properly process the seeds before sowing, and spicy greens will appear on the table in the middle of spring.