What did watermelons not like in the greenhouse? Watermelons in the garden, in the open field Care for gourds in the greenhouse.


Watermelon can be called a berry big size, which grows due to the fact that it is saturated with moisture. Watermelon liquid serves as the main source of nutrition, so experienced gardeners do not stop watering until the berry has collected enough water. However, if you want to grow not only large watermelons, but also tasty ones, then you need to know some rules for watering them. After the plant reaches required size for a set of sugar, its growth noticeably stops. At this time, watering watermelons is not recommended, as the period of their ripening begins.

To date summer months are marked by unstable weather conditions, which is why it is not an easy task to predict a favorable period of rains or a long drought. Often damage to the watermelon skin occurs due to a sharp drop in air temperature. When, after hot sunlight, thunderstorms begin to pour, the pressure inside the berry increases to such an extent that the bark bursts from overexertion. This problem also happens due to an excess of water in the watermelon. Therefore, before planting on your site, this cultivated plant, you should create the most convenient conditions for its development.

Ways to properly plant watermelons

  1. Seedling cover. In order for watermelons to ripen properly, experienced gardeners advise planting seeds in early May. The depth of the hole is made no more than four centimeters, and the distance is maintained at a distance of one and a half to two meters. Three seeds are placed in each hole. Some gardeners consider the beginning of May not a very favorable period for planting watermelons. Peculiarity this method sowing is to cover all young shoots in time. To do this, you will need to prepare two separate plastic bottles for each well. It can be a liter container, as well as one more bigger size cut bottom bottle. It is necessary to cover in such a way that the plants can then be watered through the neck. At the base, liter bottles should be sprinkled with sand, poured, and on top, according to the principle of nesting dolls, place a larger container. So in a simple way you create for the seeds to germinate best conditions, because with this arrangement of the shelter, heat will be perfectly preserved.

When the first shoots appear from the ground, it is necessary to leave the strongest ones for further growth, remove the liter container. So, after thinning, one strong seedling should remain in each hole. Do not remove the top bottle until mid-June.

  1. The perfect place. Favorable soil for growing watermelons is one in which a sandy structure prevails, rather than solid formations. When growing, melon loves warmth and sun, so you need to plant watermelons in a bright and spacious plot. During the ripening of the berries, care should be taken to cover them with something. The scorching sun's rays can simply burn the watermelons, which will worsen the entire crop. Large leaves or newspaper materials are suitable for creating a shadow.
  2. Don't let the watermelons rot. Melon rot, unfortunately, is a fairly serious problem for many gardeners. The reason for this may be excessive dampness, low temperature for the growth of watermelons. To avoid such troubles, place a small plank under each berry, and sprinkle some sand at the base of the plant. Without touching the wet ground, watermelons will be blown around by the wind and dry out faster. This little trick will help you save your harvest.
  3. Furrow irrigation. As you know, watermelons root system grows deep. This is especially true for those crops that are grown in consistently hot conditions. The root naturally goes deep into the earth to be fed by water. But in those regions where groundwater is located close to the surface, the root system of gourds is often subjected to siltation. Watering along the furrows between the rows of watermelons will help to avoid the appearance of rot, and the roots will grow in breadth. The soil must be regularly loosened for ventilation and to prevent the formation of a continuous crust.
  4. Pruning melon. As you have already noticed, watermelons tend to grow rapidly and lash out. The berries do not have time to fully ripen, and therefore it is not necessary to leave them all. Up to six watermelons will be enough for one plant to get a quality crop. Female flowers appear on the main lash, it does not need to be cut. And the lateral processes only take away the strength of the bush, so they can be removed.

At the end of summer, you can already taste ripe and juicy watermelons.

Diseases found in watermelons

Fungal bacteria, which are often carriers of pathogen sporulation from one plant to another, are able to be in the soil quite long time. Some sources provide information about fungal diseases can affect not only the plant part, but also live in the soil for years. It is not at all surprising that the fact that confirms the development of such diseases, first of all capturing the root part of the watermelon. Thus, your attention should be directed not only to the number of ovaries formed, but to the general condition of the plant. Common infections that are visible to the naked eye can be fusarium, powdery mildew, anthracnose. Therefore, if you notice rot on the leaves, or uncharacteristic former spots, then you should take preventive measures in order to avoid further manifestation of other melon diseases.

When infected with Fusarium, the berries look sluggish, their vascular system begins to function in an unnatural way due to the appearance of blockages. The Fusarium fungus causes the release of toxic substances that have accumulated due to damage to the fluid circulation system in the watermelon. Waterlogging of the soil, or its sharp cooling, can contribute to the development of this type of disease. Young shoots are more likely to pick up the infection through the ground. Therefore, if possible, replace or disinfect the soil in your area. When the soil is enriched with a sufficient amount of potassium and phosphorus, Fusarium on melons is rare.

With anthracnose of melons, the plant part is noticeably affected by brown spots. The leaves begin to dry out prematurely, the ovaries take on a distorted shape, as a result of which their development stops, or occurs very slowly. Unfortunately, this disease is quite common in beds where there is poor ventilation and waterlogging of the earth. Pathogenic fungi tend to remain on the seeds of watermelon. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that the beds are well-drained and easily ventilated.

The manifestation of rot on the roots of watermelon is carried out by getting a harmful fungus on seedlings and manifests itself in the form dark spots on the stem. The disease is dangerous, as in many cases it leads to the death of the plant. Root rot captures the lashes of watermelon and spreads to the entire melon if excessive watering and a favorable temperature are created on the beds.

Another common melon disease is bacterial spotting, which can be detected even on a young plant. The danger of infection lies in the rapid maturation of the bacterial flora, which can kill up to fifty percent of the crop. When the plant is damaged, pronounced spots become noticeable, which dry out over time, watermelons take a distorted shape, their inside deteriorates. Bacteria live in the soil, are transferred to working devices, so it is important to monitor the timely disinfection of all these components. Humid environment only encourages bacterial spread.

The fruits of watermelons and melons burst during the ripening period, and then rotted. Those that seemed to have been saved had flesh yellow color and there was no taste at all. Cracking of melons, and especially watermelon, has a purely physiological nature. This is facilitated by the violation of the water balance in the plant at high temperatures.

This phenomenon can often be observed in film greenhouses. There can be several reasons for fruit cracking:

  • violation of the ratio of air and soil temperature with soil moisture and relative - air;
  • cold heavy soil that slowly warms up in the morning;
  • a sharp influx of moisture after a drought;
  • soil salinization;
  • varietal response to the totality of all factors of the land plot;
  • insufficient provision of plants with calcium.

Other reasons are also possible, the determination of which requires specific observation of plants on melons. For example, according to our observations, varieties and hybrids with cylindrical and oval fruits more often than others react to a violation of the water regime and calcium intake. This is manifested in the form of dried fruits. In China, an interesting phenomenon was recently observed when almost all watermelon fruits “exploded” on the field. It is also interesting that the young fruits of watermelon are a kind of moisture accumulators. At night, the root system pumps water into the young cells of the fruit, and during the day the leaves use it. It is important not to disrupt this process.

Elena Kislaya, p. Kosari, Kanevsky district, Cherkasy region, Zenoviy SYCH, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, Professor of the National University





See also in this section:

There is a widespread stereotype that in our climate zone it is impossible to get watermelons larger than 8-10 kg. I will share my experience of growing them. In almost any, even the coldest summer, the weight of many specimens exceeds 10 kg, and some reach a pound.


Last year, our family got a good polycarbonate greenhouse, now we grow not only tomatoes and peppers, but also watermelons there. My children, when they found out that I planted watermelons, were simply delighted. They helped take care of the plants all summer, and in September they enjoyed eating sweet fruits with pleasure.


How many times have you eaten delicious watermelon I collected seeds to next year grow your plants out of them. But usually nothing came of my idea: the plants fell ill or formed lush bushes and did not bloom, and if the fruits were tied, they did not have time to ripen before frost.
I began to receive the first regular harvests after I looked into the Register of Breeding Achievements Approved for Use in Russia. It turned out that all the time I grew varieties of watermelons intended for the Volgograd and Astrakhan regions.



gourds demanding on the composition of the soil, humidity and air temperature. The deep root system does not tolerate close groundwater, it begins to rot. Late frosts, not uncommon in regions with a cold climate, will leave seedlings no chance of survival.

A rainy summer will not destroy the harvest, but will affect taste qualities . The fruits will be unsweetened, watery. When growing watermelons and melons in greenhouses, these problems can be avoided.

What greenhouse to choose?

The frame and covering material can be any. So, cultivation melons and watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse are finding their supporters more and more. They also feel comfortable under a cheap film.

It is worth paying attention only to a number of points.

  • the greenhouse should be high. Ideally, at least two meters. Shoots of watermelons and melons, tied to trellises, rise high;
  • prevent cold air from entering. The structure should not have gaps, cracks, rupture of covering material;
  • exclude the development of fungal diseases (to them gourds especially sensitive).

    In the spring, disinfect the frame and the ground in the greenhouse with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of copper sulphate.

Do you need neighbors?

So that the greenhouse does not stand idle waiting for the right temperature to create melons, you can sow early greens or radishes in it. Forerunners will not harm watermelons and melons. melons will thrive well next to drought tolerant, light-loving tomatoes, eggplants.

Moisture-loving cucumbers and bell pepper will not the best neighbors. Adherents of a hot dry climate, watermelons and melons suffer from diseases (powdery mildew, angular spotting, downy mildew) at a humidity of sixty percent.

What varieties to choose?

For growing in a greenhouse it is necessary to choose zoned varieties with medium-sized fruits of early or mid-season ripening. Melon varieties: "Sunny", "Sweet pineapple", "Russian garden", "Thirty-day", "Rainbow", "Autumn" give an excellent harvest in greenhouses. Popular varieties watermelon: "Siberian", "Moscow Region Charleston", "Gift to the North", "Spark", "Cinderella", "Ultra Early".

How to prepare the soil?

Melon and watermelon love fertile soil with weak or neutral acidity. It should be loose, breathable. Water stagnation must not be allowed. It is good to start preparing the soil for the future harvest in the fall. Lay tops, cut grass, rotted manure in the beds.

Which layer should be manure in a greenhouse for watermelons and melons? Approximately 30 centimeters will be enough. Important! Discard fallen leaves.

Dangerous garden pests like to winter in them. In the spring, you can add straw manure or humus with mineral fertilizers.

To improve the structure of the soil, a bucket of river sand is poured into each square meter of the area and the beds are dug up. To reduce soil acidity add calcium and magnesium compounds. They nourish plants and improve their growth.

Sulfur or ammonium sulphate will help to increase the acid balance. The earth must be warmed by the time the seedlings are planted. To do this, remove a layer of soil to the depth of a shovel, put a mixture of herbal material and humus, pour plenty of hot water. Put the earth on top and cover with a film.

What do you need to know about seedlings?

Two factors influence the production of strong, healthy seedlings:

  1. Properly selected seeds. They should be large and high specific gravity. The solution will help not to make a mistake table salt. Seeds are dipped in a liquid (a teaspoon per glass of water). Those that pop up are thrown away. For sowing take settled at the bottom. Necessarily rinse off salt residue, dry.
  2. Nutrient soil. It is sold in stores, but it is easy to cook yourself. Mix three kilograms of humus with a kilogram of soddy land. Add 200 gr. wood ash and a small spoonful of potassium sulfate. Sometimes mix peat or river sand. The soil should be loose, light, well pass moisture.

How to grow watermelons and melons in a greenhouse? Seedlings begin to grow usually in early April. From sowing seeds to the formation of a plant ready for relocation to a greenhouse, 25-35 days pass for watermelons and 20-25 for melons. Based on this, calculate the exact date start of work.

Seeds for fast germination soaked in warm water for two or three hours. It would not be superfluous to lower them into a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect against diseases.

IN peat pots for seedlings (can be replaced with plastic cups or a cut bottle), one seed is added dropwise to a depth of up to three centimeters. Cover with foil on top. The temperature is maintained at least 25ºC. When shoots appear, the film is removed. If the greenhouse is heated, pots with future watermelons and melons are transferred there. If the temperature is low, grow on the windowsill.

A few tips will help ensure high viability for young plants.

  • seedlings need in large numbers Sveta. To prevent stretching of plants, it is desirable give them extended daylight hours(at least 14 hours);
  • watering should be carried out carefully. If water gets on the leaves, they can rot;
  • plants are sensitive to "personal space". Pots should not stand close to each other;
  • do not neglect mineral supplements.

Seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse in the stage of two or three true leaves. The earth should warm up to 14ºC. The night air temperature is not lower than 5ºC-8ºC, and the day temperature is above twenty.

With sudden drops in air temperature, seedlings in the greenhouse must be covered. Plants will not endure even short frosts.

The sprouts are carefully removed from plastic containers together with a clod of earth and lowered into the spilled warm water wells. Their depth is 10 cm. Seedlings are placed at a distance of 50 - 70 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern. Above the ground is mulched with sawdust.

You can plant two plants in one hole. In this case, the lashes are directed in opposite directions from each other. To avoid rotting of the root neck, do not deepen the plant too much into the soil. The lump should rise 2 cm above the ground.

How to properly care?

Work upon receipt decent harvest not laborious but requires certain conditions to be met.

You can solve the problem in several ways:

  1. Ripening fruits are placed each in a separate net and tied to the trellis. This best method save watermelons and melons.
  2. Place a plank under the watermelon or melon. This method is good only for the lower fruits (or you have to bend the whips to the ground). The disadvantages include the need to turn the berries regularly for uniform maturation.
  3. Make shelves from any material, fix them on the walls of the greenhouse. The fruits will also have to be turned over.
  4. Sometimes cardboard boxes are used instead of grids. They are difficult to attach to trellises, it is difficult to monitor the development of the fetus.

Will inform about the maturity of watermelons shiny bark with a clear pattern, a shrunken stalk and a characteristic dull sound when hitting a berry. Ripe melons emit a unique aroma. Store crops in cardboard boxes. Preferably each fruit in a separate container.

How to avoid mistakes?

In some cases, melon berries are not tied. This happens because of the mistakes made.

  1. Wrong choice of seeds. It is better to buy them in specialized stores. Pay attention to the expiration date and the admissibility of cultivation in a particular region;
  2. Violation of the conditions for growing seedlings and fruiting plants. The formation of lashes, garter, pollination affect the formation of ovaries;
  3. Low temperature environment. In the cold rainy summer it is necessary to provide additional heating of the greenhouse and illumination of plants with LED or sodium lamps.

Subject to uncomplicated conditions planting and care, gourds in protected ground will grow no worse than under the southern sun. Organic, nitrate-free watermelons and melons delight gardeners with a bountiful harvest and excellent taste.

Useful video:

Growing a watermelon or a melon, having at least a film greenhouse, is quite realistic even in the harsh Russian climate. It is enough to choose correct varieties, timely grow seedlings and responsibly approach agricultural technology.

Of course, the first year of caring for capricious gourds may seem difficult or incomprehensible to you. But the next season, when you understand all the principles of growing watermelons and melons, things will go easier and the crops will please.

How to choose varieties of watermelon and melon for a greenhouse

Even the presence of a good greenhouse will not provide you with a warm period of such duration as in the homeland of watermelons and melons. Therefore, it is better to choose early and ultra-early varieties that have time to ripen before it gets colder or plantings attack diseases. Also, don't chase large-fruited varieties- in the middle lane, these plants still will not give the promised result, but in taste they will be pretty inferior to their medium-sized counterparts.

Varieties of watermelons for greenhouses

In garden centers, you can see the seeds of dozens of varieties of watermelons for greenhouses and open ground. For the first time, you should not collect a dozen bags, 1-2 will be enough, but with proven options.

Variety/hybrid Ripening period Fruit weight Variety features

Knyazhich

4-6 kg Raspberry pulp, thin skin

Crimson Sweet

67-82 days after germination 3-5 kg Resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose

spark

70-87 days after germination 1.5-2.5 kg Slightly segmented surface, brittle crust

Orange Honey F1

70-85 days after germination 2-2.5 kg Orange flesh, high sugar content

The gift of the sun

68-73 days after germination 4-4.5 kg Orange-skinned fruit, leaves with yellow veins and petioles, compact bushes

Suga Baby

75-85 days after germination 3-5 kg Grainy pulp with high sugar content

Varieties of melons for greenhouses

Melons adapted for growing in greenhouses are also characterized by precocity and ultra-early maturity. Many of the varieties are resistant to diseases and boast fragrant juicy pulp in small sizes.

Variety/hybrid Ripening period Fruit weight Variety features

Altai

65-75 days after germination 0.8-1.6 kg oval fruits lemon yellow, whips up to 2 m long, the plant is resistant to low temperatures

Gold Scythians F1

1.1-1.3 kg Powdery mildew resistant, densely meshed rind

Iroquois F1

75-80 days after germination 1.2-1.7 kg Not suitable for storage, quickly loses sugar after ripening

Reward

65-70 days after germination 1.5-2 kg The crust is covered with a dense mesh

Aujen F1

80-85 days after germination 0.8-0.9 kg Compact bush with short lashes, well suited for vertical trellis, fruit peel turns yellow when ripe

Ethiopian

70-80 days after germination 3.5-5 kg Compact powerful bushes, fruits are well stored, the variety is resistant to sunburn

Seedlings of watermelons and melons

At the stage of growing seedlings, watermelons and melons are no different from each other. All procedures and terms for these crops are the same, so you can carry out work "wholesale".

How and when to sow watermelons and melons

A mixture for sowing seeds of gourds is prepared from 1 part of lowland peat, 1 part of humus, 0.5 parts of washed sand. For each liter of the finished mixture, add 2 tbsp. ash and mix well.

Watermelon and melon seeds are sown for seedlings in mid-April. In separate pots, 1 seed is placed to a depth of 2 cm. Initially, the pots are filled with soil by 2/3, and in the process of growth, the soil is poured so that the seedlings form additional roots.

The first days after sowing (until germination) the pots are kept in a warm room with a temperature of 25-30 ° C. After that, the temperature is reduced to 16-18°C for a week, and during the period of active seedling growth, the temperature should be 20-25°C during the day, and 16-18°C at night.

From emergence of seedlings to planting seedlings on permanent place 30 days must pass.

Caring for seedlings of watermelon and melon

Excessive moisture for gourds is detrimental at any stage, so water the seedlings no more than 2 times a week, and let the soil dry out in between. But you should not forget about top dressing - spend the first at the stage of the appearance of the first true leaf, and the second - after 2 weeks.

To fertilize seedlings, dissolve in 1 liter of water:

The resulting solution can be watered up to 15 plants.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings of watermelons and melons in a permanent place is carried out in mid-May, preferably on a cloudy day or in the evening. Plants are rolled over with a clod of earth, after shedding the soil well.

Melons are sensitive to fungal diseases, so you can not bury root collar, and it is desirable to sprinkle the landing site with sand. The first couple of weeks, the seedlings are watered with warm water so as not to increase the stress of the transplant.

Caring for watermelons and melons

IN vivo melon and watermelon growths are so unpretentious that they are sown and forgotten about until harvest. Alas, our climate does not allow us to do the same with melons, and there is not much space in the average greenhouse.

How to water melons in a greenhouse

Watermelons and melons are watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 sq.m. Before flowering, this should be done once a week, during the flowering period 2 times a week, and after the fruits begin to ripen, watering is reduced to 1 time in 10-15 days.

How to feed watermelons and melons

In greenhouse cultivation, watermelons and melons are fed 3 times per season (not counting fertilizers that are applied during the seedling period):

  • 1st top dressing - at the time of landing in the ground;
  • 2nd top dressing - in the growth phase of the lateral lashes;
  • 3rd top dressing - during the formation of buds.

An excess of nitrogen fertilizers stretches the growing season and delays the ripening of the crop.

Melons respond well to the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers. It is best to prepare for them a mixture of 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt, 15 g of ammonium nitrate. These substances are diluted in a bucket of water, which is then spent on 2-3 plants.

Formation of watermelon and melon bushes

The most difficult thing in caring for watermelons and melons is the formation of bushes. Since the dimensions of the greenhouse do not allow them to be spread out, you need to install trellises and guide the lashes for vertical growth.

Each plant is capable of producing a couple of dozen ovaries, but 3-4 fruits on one bush can ripen in our latitudes. The rest simply take away strength and slow down maturation. To wait for ripe watermelons and melons, you need to cut off excess ovaries and female flowers.

To prevent the fruit branch from bending, the fruits are placed in a net and tied to a trellis.

Vertical cultivation of gourds in a greenhouse not only saves space, but also gives the lashes more light, which means it speeds up the ripening of fruits. To get a trellis culture, a few days after planting the seedlings, a structure of supports and wire is installed above it. At a height of 2 m, a rope is tied, and its lower end is wrapped around the stem of the plant with a free loop. As they grow, the shoots twist around the rope.

There is one more subtlety in the formation of melons - they need to pinch the apical growth points of the lashes over 3-4 leaves. Then shoots are formed from the axillary buds, two of which must be left and raised to the trellis in the shape of the letter V, and the rest removed. Without pinching, the plant will spend energy on the development of lashes to the detriment of the fruits.

Problems and diseases of greenhouse melons

The greenhouse is able to provide watermelons and melons with the necessary temperature, but these southern plants are also accustomed to dry air. In the closed space of the greenhouse, it is very humid, and this leads to a number of problems and diseases.

Diseases

Most often, watermelons and melons in a greenhouse suffer from powdery mildew and anthracnose. In the first case, the leaves are covered with a white, gradually darkening bloom, and in the second, brown or pink spots form on them, and the fruits shrivel and rot.

Anthracnose spots on watermelon leaves

Diseases are caused by high humidity, lack of sun and low temperatures. Prevention can be treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride.

If signs of powdery mildew or anthracnose appear on melons, the affected areas of the plants should be removed immediately. Double (with an interval of 7-10 days) treatment of plantings with a Bordeaux mixture and regular airing will help to save the crop.

Growing difficulties

Even the most diligent and experienced gardener may encounter a number of problems in the cultivation of these crops. Fortunately, everyone has their own solution.

Lack of ovaries due to the lack of pollination, often found in greenhouse crops. In order for insects to get inside, you need to leave the windows and doors open, sprinkle the bushes with sweet water or plant honey plants next to them. If all measures did not help, you will have to pollinate the flowers manually.

Fruit rot happens due to high humidity and accumulated condensate. The greenhouse must be ventilated at least twice a day and wiped from the inside, preventing cold drops from falling on watermelons and melons.

Unsweetened fruits- another consequence high humidity. Even if you minimize watering during fruit ripening, the plants will still be able to get water through the leaves, and the sugar level in melons will decrease from this. To deal with this problem, it is worth keeping the greenhouse on a ventilation mode every time the temperature allows it, and closing it only at night.

Is it difficult to grow a watermelon or melon in a greenhouse in the country? We admit, it is not as simple as, for example, zucchini. But you will also get a lot of joy from harvesting a sweet harvest, which means it’s worth the risk.

Watermelon and melon grown on our own personal plot, - the dream of many gardeners. As is known, this thermophilic crops, and in harsher climates, they are best grown in greenhouses. With the right approach, this is not such a hard thing, but to feast on honey melons or juicy watermelon will be available at the beginning of summer.

Proper greenhouse

Cultivation of gourds requires the creation relevant conditions for plants. They need reliable protection from late frost damage, fertilizing several times a season and shaping plants to produce quality fruits.

To ensure the proper development of watermelons and melons in a greenhouse, it must meet certain requirements.

  1. Greenhouses are not suitable for growing gourds - they are too low and small. A good option would be a high greenhouse. Under natural conditions, the shoots of the plant spread along the ground, and in the greenhouse, due to the limited area, they curl along the trellises. Therefore, the higher the greenhouse, the better. The optimal height is approximately 2 m and above.
  2. In a greenhouse, watermelons and melons can coexist with other crops, but this is not the best option. Southern plants perfectly tolerate drought, high temperatures, but humidity in a greenhouse of 60% or more can cause fungal diseases of melons. Therefore, for their cultivation it is better to allocate a separate greenhouse.
  3. Melon or watermelon require neutral soil pH 6.8-7, fertile, not very oily and well drained. The soil should be well warmed up.

Seeds and seedlings

By choosing the right seeds, you can ensure good harvest greenhouse melons. When choosing seeds, it is imperative to give preference to varieties adapted to growing in a particular climate. You also need to pay attention to the ripening time: if the period from germination to ripening is short, then the fruits will be tasty and juicy. At big period ripening, you can be left without the long-awaited harvest.

Fruit size also plays an important role. The best varieties for growing in greenhouses will be those with small fruits, giant watermelon and melon can only grow naturally in the south.

To get strong healthy seedlings, seeds are sown in the second half of April. There are several rules that will ensure a good result:

  • for each plant, it is better to immediately select a separate pot or cup, with a diameter of 8-10 cm;
  • to increase the germination of seeds, before sowing, they must be soaked for several hours in any immunostimulant or simply in warm water (25 degrees);
  • to provide seedlings with all necessary nutrients, for one part of plain earth take three parts of humus, a glass of ash and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate;
  • the seeds need to be immersed to a depth of 2-3 cm, and to make it easier for the sprouts to germinate, they are placed on their side;
  • temperature regime it is very important, before germination, the temperature should be maintained at about 25 degrees, and after the appearance of sprouts, it is reduced by 3-4 degrees;
  • before the emergence of seedlings, the cups must be covered with a film or glass.

Seedlings are growing very fast. About a month after germination, it can be planted in a greenhouse. But before that, you should pay attention to young plants:

  • as the leaves grow, you need to move the cups with melons or watermelons away from each other, giving the plants more space;
  • daylight hours should be 13-14 hours, so you will have to use additional lighting lamps to prevent stretching and weakening of the sprouts;
  • you need to fertilize the plants with a solution complex fertilizers, the procedure is carried out 10 days after germination, and then again after 10 days.

How to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse (video)

Care for melons in the greenhouse

It is possible to plant watermelons and melons in a greenhouse from mid-May, after warm weather sets in and the night temperature does not fall below +5 degrees.

Before planting seedlings, you need to prepare the soil. In the greenhouse, they dig a trench 20 cm deep, on the bottom of which hay and humus are laid. Then scatter nitrogen fertilizer and water with hot water. After that, the soil is covered and the prepared area is covered for several days with a black film to quickly warm the earth.

Landing is performed as follows:

  • the distance between rows should be 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 50 cm;
  • two plants can be planted in one hole at once, and then their shoots can be planted along the trellis in different directions;
  • the wells are filled with humus and watered with plenty of warm water;
  • seedlings have delicate roots, so the transfer from cups or pots to holes must be done very carefully so as not to damage them;
  • a clod of earth with seedlings should be slightly raised above the soil in order to avoid rotting of the hypocotyl knee.

Further cultivation of watermelons and melons comes down to a few simple operations.

  1. Airing. If the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 30 degrees, you need to open the windows or slightly raise the film for ventilation.
  2. Watering. If the leaves of the plants begin to fall, then this is a signal for watering. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid getting water on the foliage and excessive soil moisture, which can lead to the development of the fungus.
  3. Application of fertilizers. During the period of active plant growth, nitrogen and ammonia fertilizers and ash are applied during irrigation. When the fruits begin to ripen, stop feeding.
  4. Pollination. How to grow watermelons in a closed greenhouse without bees? You just need to do the pollination yourself. For this, large male flowers, cut off the petals and pass the remaining anthers along the stigmas of female flowers.
  5. Pinching is performed after the appearance of 5 leaves. When the ovaries that have appeared reach a diameter of 4-5 cm, the strongest one is selected on each lash, and the rest are cut off.
  6. Plants can be tied up as early as 10 days after planting in the greenhouse. The grown fruits for tying are placed in nets and tied with twine directly to the trellis.

By adhering to the described rules, you can grow sweet watermelon or melon even in the conditions of Siberia, having received an excellent harvest.

Watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (video)

Gallery: watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (15 photos)

Watermelon is considered a heat-loving plant, so many believe that growing such a crop in the northern or central regions is impossible. In fact, this sweet and huge berry can be obtained in absolutely any region, if you build a greenhouse in the garden and follow all the rules regarding plant maintenance.

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is aimed at obtaining a crop of this crop in the central and northern regions of the country. Year-round cultivation of watermelons is unlikely to end in success, because for this crop, all prescribed planting dates must be observed. By the way, square watermelons can also be grown in a greenhouse.

A greenhouse is needed in order to correct the weather conditions and make them more suitable for the growth of such plants. In the off-season, growing watermelons in even a greenhouse is unlikely to end in success, because there will not be enough berries sunlight for full maturation. In the event that you still manage to harvest, it will no longer be so tasty and sugary.

Watermelons in greenhouses

Benefits of using a greenhouse

Growing watermelon in a greenhouse will help create the necessary climatic conditions and protect the plant from various natural disasters. In addition, the covering structure boasts the following advantages:

  1. late return frosts characteristic of the central and northern regions negatively affect the development of culture. Using a greenhouse, you do not have to worry about this factor;
  2. Too much moisture in the soil and air can significantly affect the taste of the fruit, they will become less sweet and watery;
  3. The greenhouse will help to avoid various kinds of mechanical damage.

The construction of such a structure in the southern regions is not cost-effective, because there, even without it, favorable weather conditions and the crop ripens without creating additional conditions. As for other regions, the greenhouse will be an excellent way to grow such melons.

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

In order to start growing watermelons in a greenhouse, you first need to build such a covering structure. The size of the land plot and the greenhouse itself will depend on the wishes of the gardener. It should be borne in mind that such plants are planted according to the scheme at a distance of 1 meter from each other, therefore, to grow 10 bushes, you need a structure with an area of ​​10 square meters, with a length equal to 5 meters and a width equal to 2 meters.

Watermelon, as well as cucumbers, is grown on trellises, therefore, in order for the plant to feel comfortable and not be limited in growth, the height of the greenhouse must be at least 2 meters.

To determine which design fit better others should consider their characteristics:

Tied up watermelons in a greenhouse

  1. A greenhouse covered with a film will be the cheapest and easiest option. The disadvantage of the design is that it is impossible to install additional heating in it, and accordingly it will not be possible to control the temperature regime in the room. Seedlings can be planted in such a design already in May at home or in the country.
  2. The glass construction will be the most bulky, it will have to establish a foundation. But if you build such a greenhouse, you can be sure of its durability and reliability. It is possible to build a heating system in it;
  3. The polycarbonate greenhouse will become the best option , the only drawback of which will be the price. The design is easy to install, firmly held in place and creates opportunities for organizing heating. Planting seedlings is possible in April. Growing fruits with your own hands is not difficult.

Before planting watermelons, the greenhouse is prepared for this process:

  1. Pipes are laid underground, through which it will flow hot water and thereby create additional heating. As the main element, you can use a gas or electric boiler;
  2. In order to be able to increase daylight hours, fluorescent lamps are installed on the roof of the structure;
  3. Melon crops do not tolerate the occurrence of fungal diseases, so the frame, covering material and soil must be disinfected with Brodsky liquid or a solution of copper sulphate.

Variety selection and seed purchase

In order for the watermelon to be able to ripen and give a good harvest even in the northern region, it is necessary to choose the right variety, it must be zoned and belongs to the early or medium ripening period. Are popular the following varieties watermelon:

  • Siberian;
  • Charleston near Moscow;
  • A gift to the north;
  • Twinkle;
  • Cinderella, etc.

Seeds suitable for growing crops should be large and heavy. Hollow planting material will not be able to adapt to environmental conditions.

You can check the quality of the seeds with a saline solution, into which the future planting material is released. For sowing, specimens that have settled to the bottom are suitable. Before planting, they are pre-washed and dried.

Planting and caring for the culture with your own hands

In order to grow watermelon in a greenhouse, you need to take into account many factors that affect this process. In addition, they need to be looked after, watered and fed.

Growing seedlings

In order to get watermelons from seeds, you first need to grow seedlings.. It is necessary to plant seeds at the end of April. A mixture of perhum, soddy soil, sand and mineral fertilizers is used as fertile soil.

Before sowing the seeds, they are soaked for several hours in warm water. Using this procedure, you can improve their germination. For disinfection planting material it is not several minutes lowered into a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

As a container for growing seedlings, peat pots, plastic glasses or cut bottles filled with fertile soil are used. Seeds are sown one at a time, deepening them by 3-4 centimeters.

small watermelon fruit

In order for seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, the container must be kept in a room with a temperature of at least 25 degrees. At further cultivation seedlings should follow some rules:

  1. Light day should be at least 14 hours a day;
  2. Watering the seedlings must be very careful not to get on the foliage of the plant;
  3. Pots should be placed at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other;
  4. Watermelons respond well to mineral supplements.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Before planting watermelon seedlings in greenhouses, it is necessary to prepare the soil. This culture prefers fertile soils with neutral acidity. To achieve the best result, the following components are added for digging:

  • humus;
  • peat;
  • superphosphate;
  • potassium salt;
  • ammonium sulfate.

The next step will be the formation of bulk ridges, which are located along the walls of the greenhouse. Their height should be 30 centimeters, and their width 50-80 centimeters. Optimal distance between rows is considered 1 meter.

Planting seedlings is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  1. To begin with, dig holes 10 centimeters deep;
  2. The seedlings are taken out of the container along with an earthen clod. This is necessary in order to avoid damage to the root system;
  3. Plants are staggered at a distance of 50-70 centimeters from each other;
  4. Deepening the root collar into the ground can cause decay, so it is left on the surface;
  5. After the seedling is in the ground, it must be watered and mulched with sawdust.

watermelon closeup

Proper temperature and lighting

Watermelon develops and forms its fruits in the best way at an air temperature of 30 degrees. To avoid condensation, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated, while avoiding the creation of a draft.

The optimal daylight hours should be 14 hours. With a lack of this indicator, it is necessary to use artificial lighting. Watermelon does not respond well to open sunlight, so on too hot and hot days, the walls of the greenhouse are slightly shaded.

How often to water the berry?

Watermelons have a deep root system, thanks to which the plant can extract moisture from deep layers of the soil. How often is watering done? Water the bushes only when the leaves begin to wilt slightly. In this case, the risk of waterlogging is minimized. During watering, avoid getting drops on the leaves and shoots of the plant.

The consequences of waterlogging are rotting of the roots and the appearance of cracks in the fruits.

To obtain the richest harvest once a month, the soil is watered with complex mineral fertilizers diluted in water. Also, before the beginning of the formation of fruits, every 2 weeks the bushes were fed with ammonium nitrate.

plant formation

Getting a rich harvest directly depends on how the shrubs were formed:

Caring for watermelons in a greenhouse

  1. The growth point must be pinched over the fifth leaf;
  2. On the two lower shoots, flowers appear later than the rest, so the fruits do not have time to ripen. Such lashes are removed immediately after their appearance;
  3. Shoots without ovaries are also removed;
  4. In order for the berries to develop well, the shoots are tied to a trellis. Perform such work under the second or third sheet. As the lashes grow, they are periodically twisted;
  5. Lateral shoots, on which the ovaries have formed, are also subject to pruning. They are docked above the third leaf above the female flowers and above the seventh leaf above the male flowers.

On one plant, 5-6 fruits are left, this amount is the most optimal.

Experienced gardeners believe that watermelons should not lie on the ground during fruit ripening, so they are placed in a separate net and hung from a trellis.

Pollination

After they appear yellow flowers, they will need to be self-pollinated. IN open field bees cope with this work, but there are no such “workers” in the greenhouse. The whole process takes place according to the following rules:

  1. It is very important not to miss the designated dates, because the male flowers fall off after a few hours, and the female ones will retain the ability to pollinate for only 3 days;
  2. Male flowers (largest and without ovary) are carefully plucked and removed petals so as not to damage the pollen;
  3. The stamens are applied several times to the pistils.

Possibility of joint planting of watermelons with melons and tomatoes

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is quite an interesting process, and with the proper skill, such a culture can be placed in the same room with other plants:

  1. In order not to wait for a favorable time for planting watermelons, early greens or radishes can be grown in the greenhouse, which will be useful predecessors;
  2. Watermelon is a drought-resistant crop, next to which tomatoes and eggplants are successfully grown. These plants have similar needs and care rules.
  3. Melons are also good neighbors for watermelons. By the way, you can even plant them on the same bed.

Watermelon seedlings for planting in a greenhouse

Harvesting

Harvest usually begins in mid to late August. The full maturity of the fruit can be judged by the following signs:

  • the junction of the berry and the whip partially dries up;
  • a bright pattern appears on the surface of the watermelon;
  • when tapping, you can hear a dull sound and feel the vibration.

It is necessary to collect grown fruits very carefully to avoid mechanical damage. In the event that a scratch appears on the watermelon, the shelf life will be much shorter.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is a very painstaking process that requires constant monitoring of various indicators. With the help of this design, it is possible to grow gourds not only in the south, but also in the north and in other regions.

I started growing watermelons recently. It’s only the third time that small watermelons grow on my site. Just a few pieces. It seems that such cultivation is useless. But I think so. Country cottage area big. You have to seed it with something. If you leave a part of the site unplanted, then it will simply - simply overgrow with weeds and very quickly. If sowed with green manure, then they also need care. At least the fight against the same weeds. Then digging with embedding green mass in the ground. Planting watermelons is not such a hassle. Further care simple. Since the cultivation takes place under the film, there are no weeds. So the variety of crops during cultivation seems to be a necessary condition. Do not plant potatoes on the entire plot. It is much more interesting to grow something that has not traditionally been grown in our area. So we try to grow watermelons in various ways.

I once heard that watermelons can be grown in a greenhouse with early landing. I also tried this cultivation. I planted pre-grown seedlings. Three plants took root perfectly and started to grow.

The plants bloomed quickly.

Small fruits have appeared.
The greenhouse opens daily for the day and closes for the night. If there is no one left on the site, the door to the greenhouse remains open around the clock. That is, ventilation in the greenhouse is provided daily. Imagine my disappointment when small, only a centimeter in diameter, watermelons began to fall off one by one. None remained on all three plants. I removed already useless plants, despite the fact that they are large and outwardly healthy.

What was detrimental to watermelons? Neighbors - cucumbers grow well, peppers too. They did not have any death of the ovaries. Maybe it was still too hot for watermelons? Or did the watering need to be stopped in time? And one more "maybe".
In the compartment in the greenhouse where watermelons grew, three bushes of tomatoes grew.
These bushes remained after growing seedlings. They were tiny. Now these are huge bushes. Maybe this neighborhood has so adversely affected the watermelons?

In a word, the watermelons in the greenhouse failed.

What about watermelons in the open field. Yeah not bad. Especially with the Ultra Early variety.
There are already several already large fruits with diameters of at least 25 centimeters.
If there are no night frosts in the coming days, then they will still grow. With other varieties of Thai fruits, things are worse. Apparently, they are precocious, and already ripe.
Two small watermelon with dead "tails" were ripe.
Watermelons are very sweet in taste and have already ripened, albeit small, but black seeds. By the way, these watermelons have a dirt bed on the garbage (plant residues). There are a lot of small watermelons there. The varieties were different and the fruits were also different colors and shapes.
And another ridge, where the bottom layer is cow dung, apparently more suitable for a crop like watermelon.

Watermelons grow in the garden (part 2)

Experience in growing heat-loving plants in open ground
In my garden, I conducted such an experiment: in early spring I covered a third of the beds with a transparent film, a third with a black one, and left the rest without a film at all. I measured the soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm in the morning and evening. The results are confirmed: under the transparent film, the soil heated up much stronger and faster than without the film. Under the black film during the day, the soil was even colder than without the film. Any gardener can do this experiment.

Film mulching reduces the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface in dry weather and reduces waterlogging during heavy rainfall - for watermelons this is just a godsend. It is warm and humid under the film - the roots of the plant love it. There is no stagnation of air above the film - the aerial part of watermelons loves this. Interestingly, many wise gardeners middle lane Russia has long used a transparent film for soil mulching when growing many vegetable crops. They found this method empirically.

So, it's decided: I cover my sloping bed with a transparent film. I took two strips of stretch packaging film with a thickness of 17 microns and a width of half a ridge (the same products are packed in supermarkets), laid them along the ridge. In the middle, along the ridge, there was a cut line of the film. In this section, I planted watermelon seedlings. 5 plants were planted in the garden, because watermelons require a feeding area of ​​approximately 1 m² for normal development. With less food sparing, watermelons will be smaller. I grew watermelons in this garden for two years.


Now - about seedlings. I have worked out the technology of growing seedlings for a long time, and it is constant: on April 15-20, I soak the seeds until they hatch. To do this, I use a Petri dish, keep it at a temperature of 25 ... 27 ° C, usually on a battery central heating. Seeds hatch in 5-7 days. I plant the hatched seeds in bags of 0.5 l - each seed in its own bag in order to work without picking, which watermelons really do not like. I fill the bags with the same soil as for peppers, but with the addition dolomite flour or chalk - 2 tbsp. spoons for 5 liters. Usually this is a mixture of purchased soil with garden soil 1: 1. The depth of planting seeds is about 2-3 cm, so that the seeds, crawling out of the soil, manage to drop their “caps”. I put the crops in warm place, I cover them with a film so that the surface of the soil does not dry out. When loops appear from the ground, you need to immediately put the watermelons in the brightest and coolest place, otherwise they will stretch out at a fantastic speed.
By the time the seedlings are planted in place - and this is June 5-6, when the threat of frost has passed, the seedlings grow up to 10-15 cm. I plant them in place without deepening.

Additionally, I install metal arcs above the garden bed, on which at night, and in cold weather and during the day, I put on thin lutrasil - one or two layers, depending on the weather. In rainy weather, polyethylene was also thrown on top. Under such shelters, the plants felt very good, grew very quickly, and soon spread their patterned leaves over the film lying on the surface of the ridge. When the weather warmed up, I removed all the shelters.


Three weeks after planting the seedlings, the first watermelons bloom, and after about a week their mass flowering begins. In watermelons, male flowers first appear, and only 3-7 days later - female ones. On them, under the corolla of a flower, charming tiny watermelons are visible. I pollinate manually for reliability, because for some reason we have few bees. I always buy a brush for pollination with dark hairs. They clearly show the pollen taken from the male flower. If the pollen has not yet matured, it will not be on the brush.
Usually at the end of June, part of the watermelon plants necessarily dies from root rot. On the sloping bed, covered with a transparent film, for two years of cultivation, not a single plant fell ill, although June was cold all the time. I would like to think that the reason for this is the measures taken to warm the soil.

I did not form the plants in the garden in any way and did not pinch anything from them. They grew as they wanted, and with great speed. In mid-July, she pulled out a film from under the plants, because the earth under it became very hot, the watermelons even wilted slightly, and the weeds completely burned out. After that, watered the bed with warm water.
We ate the first watermelon from the Skorik variety (and it always ripened first) weighing 4-4.5 kg in August. On average, two watermelons weighing 3-5 kg ​​per plant were obtained.

When the nights got colder, I covered the plants with lutrasil for the night, and in the rain - also with a film, as in June. After August 10, she cut off all the watermelons that had just begun: they still won’t have time to ripen. The remaining watermelons ripened well and were very sweet.

Thus, the slope of the beds to the south and covering the soil with a transparent film allow you to grow a good crop of watermelons. However, this method also has one drawback: the work on the device for tilting the beds is very laborious. And our task is not to overwork on earthworks. And what if you do not make a bed with a slope? Perhaps it will be enough to heat the soil by covering it with a transparent film? After all, I have been growing for many years southern varieties pumpkins on a compost ridge covered with a transparent film. And these pumpkins are no less thermophilic than watermelons.

And last year I decided to grow watermelons in the same way as these very heat-loving pumpkins. Namely: on a compost ridge 3 m long and 2 m wide, where she put all the plant residues last summer and autumn, she made five pits, half a bucket each, filled them with a mixture of garden soil and compost. The whole ridge was covered for heating with a transparent film for the whole of May. In early June, cross-shaped cuts were made in the film over the pits. Through these incisions, watermelon seedlings were planted in the holes. The stems were laid on top of the film. The plants grew rapidly, bloomed early and set many fruits. Unfortunately, this experiment could not be completed: once on a cold night, a plastic film was placed on the plants with fruit set, which I did not have the opportunity to remove for two months. As a result, some plants under the film fell ill with white rot, and not all watermelons grew and ripened. But the matured ones weighing 3.5-4.5 kg were very tasty. I was especially pleased with the Lyzhebok variety - it was very sweet and lay for a long time without spoiling.

The most valuable result from this experience: when covering the soil with a transparent film, none of the plants got sick with root rot. But before it was the main scourge of plants.

In the beginning season, I plan to repeat the experience of growing watermelons on a compost ridge, covered with a transparent film since early spring. I will try to grow them on a regular bed with fertile soil, but also covered with a transparent film. And there is another way to protect plants from root rot. - graft watermelons on pumpkins at the stage of open cotyledons or the first true leaf. Now I am actively mastering this method. The results obtained so far on several plants are encouraging. In Japan, melons grow thousands of grafted watermelon plants, including their famous square watermelons. So let's continue the search for methods of growing watermelons in the open field in the conditions of the Leningrad region.

Lyubov Bobrovskaya

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