Do-it-yourself porch of the house: a phased extension from the porch to the house. How to build a wooden porch - a beautiful and functional extension for entering the house Monolithic concrete stairs
- Material selection
- Base
- Wood
- metal porch
- concrete porch
- Canopy and canopy
Having decided to build on an individual project, the private developer often finds that the porch, which is being built along with the house, accounts for a disproportionate share of the estimated costs. Designers and builders do not cheat here: the extra corners of the foundation and its protrusion under the porch require in-depth calculations and technical measures to ensure uniform shrinkage of the building. Therefore, in many cases it turns out to be advisable to build a house without a porch, and then attach a porch to it with your own hands. Moreover, such work is feasible for a person with initial experience as an amateur builder or who does not have one at all, and a porch correctly attached to the house will not affect the strength of the building structure.
Material selection
The porch to the house can be attached brick, stone, concrete, wood or steel, welded from profiles or cold forged. Brick is undesirable: natural soil chemistry, microflora and microfauna get on it with splashes during rain, which quickly destroy the material. It is for this reason that brick houses are built on a basement with a height of 400 mm or more. A completely forged or stone porch is difficult to perform and will be very expensive. It will be much easier and cheaper to build a porch of simple shapes and then revet it under a stone or the same brick or decorate it with overhead forged elements.
As for the aesthetic qualities of the remaining materials, the assertions that, they say, a concrete porch is needed for a concrete house, and a wooden porch for a wooden one, are not substantiated by anything. The houses in the photo below with a porch made of materials that seem to be incompatible with each other and with the main structural material of the building. However, it is immediately clear that they are combined. Technically, it is quite possible to attach a porch of any material to any house. What are we going to do.
Base
It is necessary to build a porch so that during seasonal ground movements and due to uneven shrinkage, the house and the porch do not affect each other. Cracks along the contours of the junction of the house with the porch are undesirable in any case, but in no case should they violate the design of both. Suddenly, the crack nevertheless went, it is necessary to be able to repair it without starting complex construction work.
The fulfillment of these conditions ensures a properly executed base of the porch. A private house and a porch subsequently attached to it must have separate foundations; this, generally speaking, is the general principle of building extensions to a house that has already shrunk. Schemes of the bases of the porches for different occasions are given in the figure, and we will analyze the ways of pairing the porch with the main structure along the way, because for different materials of the porch, they are different.
Note: if the height of the slab foundation under the porch is more than 200 mm, then its reinforcement (see below) must be made 3-level. It is highly undesirable to replace non-buried and columnar foundations with masonry from ready-made concrete blocks, with rare exceptions (see below). then, due to the low weight load, the base of the porch will turn out to be unstable.
Wood
A wooden porch looks great in any home and with any decorative design. Building a wooden porch is the easiest. The base for a wooden porch also requires the simplest to complete: a columnar or shallow foundation, see fig. The last (on the right in the figure), in general, as they say, a song is one of 2 cases when ready-made concrete blocks can be used - “bulls” 400x400x200. If the span of the stairs of the porch (see below) from the forty board is up to 900 mm, a couple of “bulls” will suffice. Span up to 1300 mm - the treads of the steps are reinforced from below with backing bars 40x40. The span is longer - additional support blocks are needed.
On the 3rd fig. Below are typical projects of wooden porches. Typical design of individual housing is carried out by studying the requests of developers, therefore, it is quite possible that you will find a porch here that is suitable for you. But most importantly - pay attention to the ways of connecting wooden parts.
The great advantage of a wooden porch is that it is able to "play" according to the movement of the ground, while remaining tightly attached to the house. Therefore, a wooden porch does not need a particularly stable foundation. But it is also not necessary to “tighten” the frame of the wooden porch, it should walk a little as if on hinges, see fig. on right.
No special hinges are required; ordinary carpentry joints are quite elastic and pliable for this. Each porch in Fig. with the projects, it is done in such a way that it will win back the movements of the soil up to the strongly heaving one, without transferring excessive stresses to the structure of the frame house. And the “framework” will withstand, any other will survive.
Stairs
Stairs are the most difficult knot of any porch, and a wooden staircase is more difficult to make than others. However, heavy long-term work is not required for this, and a wooden staircase can be attached to any other porch. Therefore, it is from the stairs that you should start developing your own porch to the house.
Main elements
The ladder, as you know, can be made in bowstrings and on stringers (skewers), see fig. At the stairs in bowstrings, the ends of the platforms of the degrees - the risers - are closed by the beams that carry the steps, and at the stairs on the stringers, the ends of the steps are free. Wooden stairs for outdoor use are preferably made on stringers so that moisture does not stagnate in the gap between the bowstring and the step and does not cause the wood to rot.
The gap between the underside of the upper step and the tread of the lower one is called the riser; it can be open and closed (deaf). The steps of one flight of stairs, assembled in bowstrings or stringers, make up the flight of stairs. The overhang of the step over the riser (step overhang) allows you to increase the width of the tread without reducing the angle of inclination of the march, and, accordingly, the departure of the stairs - the length of its projection onto the underlying surface. Giving a step overhang of more than 30-40 mm is undesirable, people will cling to it with their toes. In order for the shoes to slip less over the overhang, the deaf riser is sometimes made beveled anteriorly flush to the front edge of the tread of the upper step.
Note: general schemes for the device and fastening of wooden stairs are given on the next. Fig., and we will deal with the details further.
Calculation
The outdoor stairs may be wet, icy. On it often rise tired, chilled and wet. Therefore, the height of the steps of the outer staircase should be kept optimal - 160-175 mm, and the angle of inclination of the march should be within 30-40 degrees. For the same reasons, the width of the tread is taken more than for internal stairs - 280-320 mm. It is not necessary to give it over 350, it will be inconvenient to ascend. The span of the outer staircase, in terms of walking in outerwear, should, if possible, be taken no less than the inner staircase of a double passage, i.e. from 1300 mm.
Note: the slope of the march is calculated as arctg(h/w), where h is the height of the step, and w is the width of the tread without overhang.
Also, for the convenience of walking and reducing the likelihood of slipping, stairs are designed so that a person descends from the last step with the same foot that stepped on the first. It follows that the steps of the ladder must be an odd number. According to these data, knowing the area available under the stairs from the outside, it is calculated. If the calculation does not converge in any way, it is necessary, firstly, to “play” with the size of the overhang. In addition, the stairs to the porch most often go to the platform. This allows the upper last, the so-called. frieze step, do it already. Well, and the space in front of the house to fit the removal of the stairs, most often, is also enough. Finally, you can vary the width of the platform, but if it goes out less than 750 mm, it is better to refuse the platform altogether.
Staircase on stringers
The most important node of the stairs to the porch is its connection with the building. On the left in fig. ways of pairing stairs on stringers without a platform are shown. Pairing according to pos. 1 (kosour with a gash) is preferable for a wooden house, which also “plays” well and shrinks less. The cross section of the platform beam (which in this case is attached to the lower crown of the frame or log house) here is enough 75x50 mm.
For fastening a kosour without gash (pos. 2 on the left), a platform beam of 100x50 mm in diameter is required. This method is preferred for attaching stairs to stone and concrete structures. In any case, the surface of the tread of the upper step should be located 50-60 mm below the top of the door threshold, based on further shrinkage of the house.
On the right in fig. - methods of fastening the flight of stairs to the platform, depending on the width of the frieze step. If the platform is wooden (see below), then it will be a damper between the stairs and the building; in this case, the stringer can be fixed tightly to the platform beam, for example, with steel corners and self-tapping screws. Otherwise, the kosour is attached to the beam with a tie-in without gash.
The steps of outdoor stairs in bowstrings should be placed on backing bars or surfs. This, firstly, reduces the possibility of moisture accumulation in the grooves for treads / risers. Secondly, the march frame can be assembled and, if necessary, trimmed before installing the steps. Both make the manufacture of a wooden staircase in bowstrings feasible for beginners.
The scheme for assembling the stairs in bowstrings "for dummies" is given on the next. rice. In this way, a green novice carpenter can even make beveled risers (shown in pale tone). On the right in fig. - ways of fastening steps to it. Here it should be added to the above that it is not necessary to put treads on steel corners in the outer staircase - rust will flow.
metal porch
A metal porch is the second most popular after a wooden one. With their own hands, a steel porch is most often made for giving: here the appearance, as they say, does not beat very much, but the entire structure can be welded in advance in production conditions, brought and delivered ready. A steel porch without wrought iron decorations will cost less than a wooden one, not to mention a concrete one.
Due to their elasticity, metal structures are very little susceptible to damage by soil movements. But she is able to transfer great efforts to the construction of the building. Therefore, on soils of medium and stronger than average heaving, the steel porch must be made floating, like a concrete monolith (see below). The foundation under it can be laid slab lightweight, with a slab 100 mm thick flush with the ground surface and single-level reinforcement. On weak and non-rocky soils, a steel porch can be made cantilevered (see below) with supports from a pair of bullock blocks under the heel.
The steel porch is usually assembled on stringers as shown in fig. Channels for stringers and platform frame take 60 mm; corner for frames of steps - equal-shelf 40 mm. Logs under the platform flooring are made from the same corners welded into a T-shaped profile (half-tee). Steel pipes from 100 mm go to the support pillars.
This design is optimal for production in industrial conditions, incl. piece and small-scale handicraft. The fact is that for accurate welding of step frames, volumetric conductors are needed. When welding outdoors on the weight, the steps of a novice welder will most likely come out skewed. Or, to assemble such a ladder on the spot, you need some experience, see for example. track. video.
Video: an example of assembling a metal staircase
A beginner can get out of the situation in several ways. The first one is shown in pos. and the figure above: instead of voluminous frames of steps on the plaza (a flat, durable fireproof platform), flat fillies are boiled under the steps. Tread them - either wooden hanging, or any (for example, stone) laid in flat frames from the same corner. In either case, the tread or frame for it is attached to the filly with screws, which allows you to align the steps. Bad in this method is its high labor intensity and increased consumption of material. Wooden treads will also not receive proper support, so you need to take thick ones from them.
The second method is shown on the left side of the footprint. rice. Here, the labor intensity and material consumption are less, because. supports from pipes after welding are cut into the horizon by a grinder according to the level and cord-mooring. According to this scheme, there is a temptation to reduce the volume of earthwork and concrete work by making a ladder on one stringer, on the right in Fig. However, it requires a cutting machine: the slightest distortion of the filly supports from the channel - and the steps went for a walk. You can make a cutting machine yourself by fixing the grinder on a swinging arm, the hinge of which is installed in a solid frame, but whether it is worth doing it is a master's business.
Finally, the simplest solution is a porch for OSB or plywood sheathing, and decorative trim along it, on a straight frame. Its device is clear from the next. rice. All parts of the frame are flat, cooked on the plaza. The foundation for such a porch is not needed at all, it hangs on the foundation of the building, this is the so-called. cantilever porch (see also below). It rests on the blind area of the house with adjustable screw legs, so please note: the frame is fixed to the foundation of the building only at the top, as shown in the figure! Fasteners - bolts from M8x130 with steel collet anchors. The pitch of the attachment points is up to 600 mm. Since the porch is always wider, intermediate posts are needed in the rear frame frame. Which will not interfere with other frames with a height of more than 400 mm.
concrete porch
A concrete porch is actually a little better than a brick porch: laborious, and the work is hard, material-intensive. Requires a reliable stable foundation for itself, it interfaces very poorly with the building. True, it will stand on a separate foundation no less than the house itself. Aesthetically, a concrete porch justifies itself only with a house of a purely utilitarian design (on the left in the figure); technically well combined with a patio porch (terrace, veranda, on the right in the figure), but a terraced porch must be built along with the house.
Also, at the same time with the building, a cantilever (hanging) and cantilever-supporting porch is being built, pos. III and IV on the next. rice. Since we are talking about an attached porch here, we will confine ourselves to the observation that the cavity under the concrete porch (wing liner) must be well ventilated, otherwise it will turn into a hotbed of dampness and a nest of all obscene living creatures.
Only a floating concrete porch is attached to the existing house, pos. I and II. A more detailed diagram of its device is shown at the bottom right in Fig. Instead of rigid mineral wool, a deformation seam (width - 10-12 mm) can, and even better, be laid with basalt cardboard. A piece of mineral wool or a sheet of basalt cardboard is taken out on the sides outside the porch monolith and temporarily attached to the foundation of the building with self-tapping screws in dowels through wooden slats. It is impossible to fix the filling of the seam to the foundation of the house in the area where the porch adjoins it!
A typical, one might say, defect of a floating concrete porch is a chronically occurring crack between it and the foundation of the building. It is not dangerous, but it flaunts in plain sight, like a red nose and bags under the eyes of an alcoholic, and generally without cracks is better. Therefore, it is better to attach a concrete porch to the house on a separate foundation, slab or pile-slab, depending on local conditions (see the figure with foundation diagrams).
About the foundations for a concrete porch in RuNet, what miracles you read! It is advised, say, to do it on undercut, pressed or driven piles. And the house is nearby, close, what, is it standing on a monolithic Precambrian rock? Pile work will not affect the reliability of its foundation in any way? If the concrete porch is made on a pile-slab foundation, the following should be borne in mind:
- Piling holes are drilled manually with a garden drill.
- Piles are reinforced and poured into ruberoid clips using a standard method.
- Piles are located symmetrically along the diagonals of the foundation slab with an indent of 250-350 mm from the corners.
- If any of the sides of the projection of the porch is more than 1.8 m, the piles are laid in an envelope (item 1 in the figure below).
- The belts (levels) of the reinforcing grid of the slab are fastened with a knitting wire to the vertical branches of the reinforcement of the piles immediately after the concrete has set in them. The distance from the lower reinforcement belt to the top of the bedding is 40-80 mm.
- To speed up the work, a sand and gravel cushion under the slab can be poured through the reinforcement grid of the slab. The remnants of the backfill from the armature are swept away.
- A slab with a thickness of up to 200 mm is poured in one layer, and a larger thickness - in layers of 15 cm.
- A freshly poured layer of concrete is pierced with a sharpened steel bar approximately in the middle of each grid cell to release air.
- The next layer of concrete mortar is poured as soon as the previous one begins to set. With this method of filling, the so-called. hydraulic compaction of concrete.
Note: it is possible to reinforce the foundation of a concrete porch with both steel and fiberglass (composite) reinforcement.
The porch is poured when the concrete slab reaches approx. 15% durability. Practically - on the 2nd - 3rd day after setting the concrete of the foundation slab. There is no need to reinforce the concrete porch with multi-level powerful reinforcement (item 2 in the figure); enough for each step of one reinforcing belt made of steel mesh from 40x40x3 to 60x60x5, pos. 3.
The formwork boards must be soaked in advance with mineral oil (by mining, for example), so that they can be removed more easily later. If the concrete porch does not go under the finish, it is advisable to carefully sand the formwork from the inside, and seal the seams between the boards with wood putty. So the outer surfaces of the porch will be smooth.
Pros, working on order / for hire, pour the porch in one step, time is precious to them. Working for yourself, the porch can be poured in stages, pos. A-E in fig. In addition to saving material, the porch will turn out to be insulated and less prone to displacement by soil movements. Each successive step is poured as soon as the concrete of the previous one has set. The concreting of the steps of the porch is carried out in the next. order:
- The leveled and compacted gravel or expanded clay backfill is poured with a cement-sand 1:3 mortar of increased fluidity, with a water-cement ratio (VC) of 0.72, until all the pebbles or granules are hidden. That is, the solution should be the density of liquid sour cream;
- As soon as the initial pour begins to set, pour the usual concrete mortar (cement: crushed stone: sand 1: 5: 3) of normal consistency with a layer of 4-6 cm;
- just grabbed the first layer of concrete pouring, lay the reinforcement and pour the step to the top of the formwork section. If wooden or stone treads will be installed on concrete, screw anchors are walled up for them at this step;
- The filled step is deaerated (de-aired) as described above;
- Immediately after pouring the next step, the previous one is ironed: sprinkled with dry cement M400 and carefully rubbed with a wooden block (pos. 4 in the figure)
Note: scheme according to pos. A-E is for a floating porch. The pouring of the porch on the foundation by this method differs only in the absence of the primary pouring of the first stage with a cement-sand mortar.
The back wall of the porch (pos. E) is poured in layers of 15 cm with de-airing and hydro-sealing. The order of its filling is the same as for the steps. Wooden or stone treads are placed on propylene spacers with steel washers, pos. 5.
Canopy and canopy
A porch with a canopy is definitely better than an open one. Not only in terms of convenience, but also the safety of the building: the front door opening is the place from where most often the violation of the building structure begins under the influence of weather conditions. The roof of an attached porch can be a canopy on columns or a hanging canopy attached to the wall of the building.
The columns of the canopy of the attached porch must be concreted separately from the foundation of the porch, and even more so from the floating porch. The removal of the bases of the columns forward and to the side from the outer corners of the porch or its foundation - from 0.5 m; better - 1 m or more. The reason is the same difference in the shrinkage of the porch and the house. If the bases of the columns are not rigidly connected to the porch, frost heave forces will press the canopy against the wall. On the contrary - to tear it off the wall.
Note: the lower parts (roots) of wooden columns must be treated with bitumen at least 400 mm above the ground. The reason is the same for which it is possible to build from bricks only on the basement. Wrapping the roots of wooden columns with roofing material, in addition to impregnation, will not hurt, but keep in mind that it will not protect the aerial part of the root of the column! In the light, roofing material is destroyed over time by solar ultraviolet (UV).
The hanging visor does not fundamentally create shrinkage matching problems. It cannot be mounted only on frame and prefabricated panel walls; in all other cases, a hanging canopy is technically preferable to a canopy on columns. Schemes of porch visors welded from a 40-mm corner frame are given at the top in the figure, and drawings of a wooden porch visor are also below. All these canopies, except for arched and gable ones, must be equipped with a drainage gutter with an outflow to the side (s). The overall width of a wooden canopy made of timber 75x75 can be increased up to 2.5 m; for this resp. increase the size marked with an asterisk.
Fastening of peaks to a stone or concrete wall - with 8x130 self-tapping screws in propylene dowels or M8x100 bolts in collet anchors. To a wooden wall - self-tapping screws for wood M8x120. Canopy roof decking - any suitable (soft, steel or ceramic tiles, polycarbonate, slate, etc.); under any roof, except for polycarbonate, a crate is required. It is necessary to cover the visors with polycarbonate, observing the rules for working with this material: turn it outward with the UV-resistant side, structure channels along the slope, close the edge with a filter tape, fasten it to the frame using thermal washers, etc.
About porch glazing
The glazed porch is cool and fashionable. In many cases, it is also convenient. But - glazing without fear is only possible on a porch built together with the house on a common foundation with it. As for the porches attached to the house, no technical guarantee for the safety of their glazing for more than one season is possible in principle.
Finally: how to search for information
You may need exact working drawings of some of the typical porches. For example, you were self-built according to a standard project, but so far without a porch. Unfortunately, there is no way to include at least part of the technical documentation even for one project in a review article, but the most popular of the standard projects of individual residential buildings are available on the Internet in free distribution.
In order not to “google” in vain for a long and painful time, but to go straight to the porch, in the search bar of the browser you need to type “Typical project 18…” or “Typical design solutions 8…”. A number of preliminary results will pop up for you according to documents available for free download like “Typical project 186-214-9.87” (this is a precast concrete porch from ready-made monolithic parts) or, say, “Typical design solutions 820-1-088.88” (drawings of a metal porch ), or “Standard project 189-000-362.85” (these are drawings of a wooden porch), etc. Further - it is clear. We look at what suits - we download, we determine the materials and costs, we build.
We will send the material to you by e-mail
To The stigma is a functional element of any household and is its hallmark. Such a structure should be located at the entrance to the building and fit into the created exterior of the building. By choosing the right material, you can build a luxurious porch to the house with your own hands. Projects, photos and design drawings can easily be found in our review. In addition to practical functions, this structure performs a decorative function. At the same time, the canopy and railings are decorated with beautiful carvings and other decorative elements.
In many buildings, the porch is part of the project and fits perfectly into the overall exterior.
The porch in a private house, photos of which can be viewed on the site, is an open area with a staircase in front of the entrance to the house. It can be of any shape, and also made of various materials.
Such a structure can be made in the following variations:
- the structure of the attached type is more mobile.
Helpful information! To avoid skewed steps and cracks, a foundation must be installed.
Foundation: construction features for all types of porch
A strong foundation is needed to make a porch to the house with your own hands. Designs, photos and descriptions will help create a quality foundation.
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Do-it-yourself porch to the house: projects, photos of various types of porch
They will help you choose the best design of the porch of a private house with photos that can be found on the site. In this case, it is worth deciding on the material for the future design. Traditional options include wood, concrete, stone and brick, or metal.
Metal structures: the nuances of the device
Metal products are mounted using electric welding. The design is assembled from standard parts. If desired, you can use forging elements for a metal porch in a private house. The photo will allow you to choose interesting solutions.
Such a design is mounted in several stages:
- two channels are laid in parallel at a distance of future steps. Then a corner is cut to the size of the steps;
- a part equal to the height between the steps is cut off from the corner. Both elements are welded in the form of the letter G;
- L-shaped parts are attached to the channel;
- then the channel is connected using corners.
Ready. Steps made of any material are mounted on it. If more than three steps are provided, then railings are mounted. The visor completes the design.
Concrete options: design features
The concrete structure involves the continuation of the foundation in the steps. In this case, reinforcement is used, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. Such a structure requires additional cladding with stone or tiles.
Formwork is made for each step. The finished structure is covered with decorative material.
Helpful information! The space between the foundations of the main building and the extension is sealed with mineral wool, which ensures better stability of the structure.
Do-it-yourself wooden porch for a private house: installation features
Do-it-yourself wooden porch to the house is popular. Projects and photos of such structures are diverse. The best material is larch and other conifers. For such raw materials, special protective impregnations are required.
Installation of a wooden structure consists of the following steps:
- the manufacture of stairs includes the formation of a bowstring. These elements are connected to the base;
- installation of the site consists of mounting the shelf boards to the finished base;
- steps are being installed. At the same time, steps and risers are attached with the help of self-tapping screws;
- the design is carried out with the help of railings and a canopy.
Helpful information! The durability of the structure depends on the correct preparation and processing of wood. The material must be well dried.
Related article:
Porch made of brick or stone
It is very difficult to make brickwork for the porch, since the brick must be laid out perfectly evenly. It is even more difficult to lay a stone porch without certain skills. The chipped edges don't fit together.
Simple options include the construction of a concrete staircase and facing it with stone or brick.
Visor options
An important addition to the extension is the canopy over the porch. The photo on the site allows you to see interesting options for this element.
The visor is created from timber, metal, plexiglass or metal pipes. Wooden structures must be treated with special solutions every 2-3 years so that the wood does not deteriorate.
The visor should at least protrude half a meter beyond the area of \u200b\u200bthe main structure. Piles for the canopy supports are mounted at the stage of creating the foundation. Polycarbonate, plexiglass or tiles can be used as a coating. This element must have a pitched shape.
Helpful information! A wooden structure or metal sheets can be coated with paint in several layers.
Which porch is better: glazed or open?
A closed porch is often used for a private house. Photos of projects can be found on the Internet. Most often, these are transparent structures made of metal and glass. The frame and piles are made of metal. The walls are made of glass. A roof of this design can be combined with a balcony on the second floor.
The glazed version is made with a concrete foundation, a canopy and a staircase. The frame is made with the help of corners. In this case, the corners are attached to the installed piles.
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With the right choice of a porch for a country house, you need to take into account the budget and desires and consider the finished photos. Our article will provide you with information about the types of porches, with all possible shapes, a variety of materials and examples of finishes.
To decide on the project of the porch, it is necessary to take into account not only the preferences of the owners of the house, but also its features. According to the designers, the style of the canopy and railing should match the style of the roof and balcony of the building. For example, for a building with a gable roof, the same canopy over the porch is suitable.
For forged balconies and window grilles, it is advisable to choose railings with the same forging patterns. At the same time, you should worry about the similar design of arches, columns and other decorative elements.
Types of house porch design
- Open - the most common way to enter the house. An open porch is mounted with a railing, a visor, decorated with decor that can be transferred to the house in winter.
- Closed - glass (transparent or translucent), polycarbonate, or a simple mosquito net can be used for wall design. It is comfortable to use the closed porch as an additional entrance hall, in such a room it is cozy and convenient to spend your holidays at any time of the year.
- Hinged - the need for such a porch comes from the design of the landscape next to the building or the presence of a basement. Hanging decoration similar to a balcony.
- The porch-terrace is decorated with an open area to relax in the fresh air.
The shape of the ledge of the porch is rectangular and round.
An important place in the design of the porch is the choice of materials. Today, concrete structures have become very popular. Their convenience lies in the fact that concrete is easy to paint, decorate with tiles, stone. Even the design of the porch is possible using wood, metal, stone and brick.
Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas
A wooden porch is best suited to a wooden house. Moreover, wood is an environmentally friendly material and creates an extraordinary feeling of coziness and comfort. Such a solution has become popular not only among wooden houses, but also brick ones. They are installed on a base made of metal, concrete or wood.
What tree is the most suitable? Of course, pine - it is used in 80% of cases. This is a relatively cheap material that will serve you for many years. The main thing is reliable sealing, varnishing and painting. Although, as practice shows, when using several materials at once, the result is a stunning architectural composition.
Do-it-yourself porch to the house
Let's start with an example of installing a wooden porch. For its manufacture, first of all, it is necessary to have a design drawing. Using boards and other materials, all the details are made. An electric jigsaw will be needed to create leading supporting elements, stringers. But for the manufacture of complex design details, such as railings, it is better to seek help from a specialized workshop. There you can also ask for help from the development of a professional set of drawings, so that the dimensions of the house and additional requirements are taken into account.
It is necessary to start the assembly with the supporting parts. We must not forget about using the building level to check the horizontal position at each step of construction. Remember! In order for the porch to serve you for a long time and reliably, it is better to mount it together with the construction of the house.
Porch with canopy
Approaching any house, the first thing we notice is just a visor. And depending on the appearance, an impression is formed about the dwelling itself. Therefore, it is so important to pay attention to the design of this part of the house. What will he be like? It all depends on your financial capabilities and imagination.
The main function of the visor is a presentable appearance and protection of the entrance to the house from the gifts of the weather. Therefore, the first is the definition with the materials of manufacture. Then - the definition of the shape and design of the canopy. And the last - the implementation of the installation of the structure.
When choosing a roofing material, you should study the technical characteristics of all offers and stop at the most suitable option. Let's consider some of them:
- Polycarbonate is the most popular material. The visor has a beautiful translucent appearance, resistant to temperature changes, flexible, shockproof, fireproof. The disadvantage is the poor transfer of UV radiation, so it should immediately be treated with a protective layer so that the canopy does not become cloudy and does not lose its appearance after a couple of years.
- Metal is an inexpensive option, but it is much more difficult to work with it, since you need to use welding or fixing bolts. Such a visor will last a long time and reliably, if it is protected from corrosion and periodically care for the surface.
- Metal tile - has an excellent appearance and will last an unlimited amount of time. It is lightweight, durable, low maintenance and easy to install. The metal tile will have an attractive appearance and look wonderful with any type of frame. Among the shortcomings - the lack of sound insulation and strong heating in the summer.
- Decking - has the same advantages as a metal tile. The advantages include ease of use due to the large area of the sheets, affordability and ease of installation, as well as no need for additional painting, practicality and durability.
When choosing a design, it is important to consider the material of the roof, the parameters of the canopy and the side of the drain.
According to the installation method, it can be supporting (a heavy structure reinforced with wooden beams or metal pipes), suspended (it has a small size and is mounted on an outer wall).
By form:
- flat - such a visor is mounted open and is made of any material;
- gable - will save from rain, wind and blizzard, you can use different materials for construction;
- three-pitched - made on a metal frame made of metal tiles or corrugated board, reliable and easily sheltered from blizzards and rain;
- metal - made by forging. This version of the visor will be large, have a representative appearance, especially strong walls are needed for decoration;
- polycarbonate - will protect from wind and dust, because of its flexibility, the visor can be easily shaped into an arch, tent or umbrella, which is why designers love to use it so much.
Whatever your decision about choosing a porch, always sensibly evaluate your options. Remember that it is better to order complex elements in a specialized company, and in order to flawlessly perform individual work, additional training from professionals is necessary.
And do not forget about working drawings, materials, tools, a photo of a porch for a private house and fixtures that will be needed to plan future actions.
Photo of the porch of a private house
If you want to build a porch to the house with your own hands, then we have great news for you - it is quite possible to do it yourself! What's more, you can even choose from several options available - concrete, wood, or metal porches! In this case, in the latter version, the design will be equipped with a beautiful polycarbonate canopy.
Let's take a closer look at each of the available options. First, let's get acquainted with the instructions for making a concrete porch to the house.
Option one. concrete porch
The strongest and most durable design, which also looks quite solid. First, decide on the size of the porch.
Stage number 1. How to calculate the dimensions of the porch
In most cases, the porch of the house is just a few steps. You are obliged to choose the optimal dimensions of this design. Ideally, the width of the stairs should be between 0.8 and 1 meter. If possible, you can make it even wider - so the whole porch will look more attractive and comfortable. Making the width smaller is highly discouraged.
As for the angle of inclination of the stairs, it should be in the range of 28-45 degrees. The table below shows the optimal dimensions of this design.
The width of all steps of the porch should be the same and be approximately 25 centimeters, while the optimal height is from 12 to 20 centimeters (it all depends on who exactly the porch is intended for).
Note! When arranging the upper platform, try to keep it below the front door by about 5 centimeters.
Stage number 2. How to make a porch foundation
First, dig a pit according to the dimensions of the future structure (at least half a meter deep). Build formwork around the perimeter.
Then take the crushed stone and fill it with the bottom of the resulting pit (the thickness of the layer should be about 20 centimeters). Thoroughly tamp the gravel, then pour sand on top of it in a 10-centimeter layer. It is desirable to pour sand with cold water to make it easier to compact it.
Cover the resulting area with roofing material. From above, lay a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100x100 millimeters, then fill everything with concrete mix. You can easily cook the latter with your own hands, for this, adhere to the following proportions:
- one part of cement;
- five pieces of rubble;
- three parts of sand.
After pouring, level the surface of the concrete, pierce it in some places with a reinforcing bar to remove air. Now it remains only a few days to wait for the initial curing of concrete to occur.
Stage number 3. How to build a formwork for steps
To build the formwork for the steps, you will need thick plywood. At the same time, it is important that the height of such formwork is 20 centimeters greater than the height of the porch itself. The construction process itself is nothing complicated: cut out all the details of the formwork from plywood (according to the height of each of the steps), and then install them in the right places. To tighten the shields together, use metal plates, wooden bars, or any other suitable fasteners.
Note! The shields located on the sides must be reinforced without fail with additional stiffeners.
In addition, reinforce all the steps, and lay the reinforcement in such a way that it is located in all 3 planes at once. Alternatively, you can weld an iron frame, the shape of which matches the planned staircase, and build the formwork around it. This will be even more convenient. In other words, do what feels right for you.
Stage number 4. How to pour steps for the porch with your own hands
To begin with, lubricate, using oil, all the internal surfaces of the formwork. This is necessary so that later you can remove the structure without much effort. As for the pouring solution, prepare it in the same way as before.
Start pouring in stages, starting with the first step. After pouring each new step, take a short break so that it dries a little, and then proceed to pouring the next one. So your porch for the house with your own hands will turn out to be as strong and durable as possible. In the course of pouring, fasten additional formwork parts in front of each step. In this case, the height should be the same as that of the first step.
Note! The formwork surface that will be in contact with the mortar should be as smooth as possible.
After pouring, carefully level the concrete, then pierce it with reinforcing bars.
It is possible to dismantle the formwork no earlier than in a week, and even better in 10 days. At the end, finish the structure. For cladding, you can use tiles or natural stone, boards or, alternatively, any other finishing material (decide for yourself).
Installing railings is not necessary at all, do it at your discretion. If you still decide to install, then please note that the height of the handrails should be at least 0.9 meters. As an example, we give an option that is equally suitable for metal / wood structures. Install support posts made of metal pipes above and below the porch. In this case, the length should be such that the angle of inclination of the railing is similar to the inclination of the stairs. Connect the ends of the racks together with iron pipes, but of a smaller diameter. Use a welding machine to connect.
The top tube will serve as a handrail. To fill the space between the pipes, you can use absolutely any rental. When mounting the element, the gap can also be any - here everything will depend solely on your personal preferences.
Upon completion of installation, thoroughly clean all metal parts, cover them with two layers of primer mixture. Thanks to this treatment, the service life of the railing will increase markedly.
Video - Construction of a concrete porch to the house with your own hands
Option two. Do-it-yourself metal porch (with a polycarbonate roof)
Immediately make a reservation that the option described below is successfully combined with almost all types of private houses. The process consists of several stages, let's get acquainted with the features of each of them.
In this case, there are no fundamental differences from the foundation that we previously created for the concrete porch, the only exception is the fact that the support posts for the future canopy must be installed at this stage. We recommend installing supports in each of the corners of the structure - thanks to this, the structure will turn out to be more stable. If the dimensions of the porch are large enough, make several supports along its length in increments of 2 meters.
First, dig holes about 1.5 meters deep for supports (by the way, steel pipes can be used as the latter). Place each pipe in the appropriate hole, then fill it with concrete.
Note! Wooden bars can also serve as supports. The sequence of actions here is the same, only the lower parts of the bars should be pre-tarred or wrapped with roofing material, and also treated with an antiseptic.
Also install supports under the stairs. Also dig holes, place metal racks in them, and then fill them with concrete. It is unlikely that the length of the stairs will be too large, therefore, the supports above and below the structure will be enough. Although, for greater reliability, you can additionally put supports in the middle of the flight of stairs.
When pouring concrete, make sure that the ladder is somewhat recessed into it. Pour concrete not to the very top of the site - leave a small gap (within 10-30 centimeters, the specific figure depends on the current dimensions of the structure). Later, when the assembly of the metal structure is completed, you can fill the pit to the top.
Stage number 2. How to weld a ladder
To get started, take a couple of metal channels. Weld them to the supports that were installed and poured with concrete in the previous stage of work. Later steps will be welded to these channels. Take an iron corner (without fail equal-shelf), cut it according to the length of the steps, adding the width of the weld. After that, weld this corner along the contour.
Take the second segment of the corner, weld it in the same way, only to the attached corner. At the next stage, it is necessary to weld the second corner to the channel. As a result, you should get something like the following.
It turns out a kind of L-shaped product, you have to connect them together. For the upper connection, use an equal-shelf corner - weld it along the contour to both elements so that the shelves are placed inward. Make the bottom connection using the same corner, but the shelves should already “look” outward.
To fill the steps of the stairs, which will decorate the future porch to the house with your own hands, you can use any materials - for example, plywood or wood. For fixing, use self-tapping screws, twisting them from below. And to further secure the wooden elements, use glue or, alternatively, silicone-based sealant.
In principle, further finishing can be done at your discretion. If you want, you can not close the horizontal openings at all - in this case, the casing will be mounted directly on the steps.
Stage number 3. How to make a canopy over the porch with your own hands
So, we installed the racks at the stage of pouring the base, so the further algorithm of actions should look something like this.
Take the cross supports and install them in accordance with the dimensions of the frame. If you like, your future canopy can be curved. To achieve this, cut the profile every 4 centimeters and bend it as needed. The advantage of canopies with a curved shape is that precipitation and various kinds of debris will slide freely from them.
Take polycarbonate, install it on the frame and fix it with self-tapping screws (we recommend using special thermal washers). The fastening step in this case should be 30 centimeters. Seal the edges with glue. Everything, the canopy can be considered ready!
Video - Do-it-yourself porch to the house from a profile pipe under polycarbonate
Option three. wooden porch
You can find a diagram of a porch made of wood below.
The work consists of several stages, we will get acquainted with the features of each of them.
Stage number 1. How to build a foundation
The best option in this case is a pile foundation. The fact is that such a base is extremely simple and quick to install, but its reliability is at a fairly high level.
First, dig holes where the piles will be located - not only in the corners of the future structure, but also along the length of its sides (the step should be from 0.8 to 1 meter). It will be great if you do this below the freezing level of the soil. After that, take the support bars and treat them with an antiseptic, and wrap the lower parts with roofing material for waterproofing. After that, insert the bars into the holes. Align them vertically, and then fill with concrete mortar.
After the concrete has hardened well, you can proceed to the next step.
Stage number 2. How to mount lags
If necessary, trim the tops of the beams so that all supports are at the same level. It is worth noting that when calculating the height of the piles, it is necessary to act in such a way that, upon completion of the installation of the site, a 5-cm height difference remains between the front door and it.
Stage number 3. How to make a bowstring (kosour)
Now start making the supporting part of the ladder structure. It is to this part that the steps will subsequently be attached. In other words, the kosour is, as it were, the side face of the steps.
To make a bowstring, you will need boards that are 50 millimeters thick. Take one of them, draw steps on it and cut them out with a saw or jigsaw. At the end, connect the stringer to the joists using a tenon-groove connection.
Stage number 4. How to arrange steps and platform
This is the last stage, after which the porch to the house with your own hands can be considered completely finished. First, attach the sheathing boards to the joists (you can either nail them or screw them). If you want, you can also lay some kind of finish on the boards (here, again, everything depends only on your personal preferences).
Attach treads and risers to the stringer, and you need to start working only from the bottom step. The sequence of actions is as follows: fix the riser, install a tread on top of it, and so on. Fasten using a thorn-groove connection or self-tapping screws.
As for the arrangement of the visor and railings, there are no special restrictions here. We have given step-by-step instructions for mounting these elements above. The algorithm of actions itself is the same, but instead of cladding elements and supports, you must use similar wooden parts (you can use any other material you like).
Video - Original do-it-yourself wooden porch
Common mistakes in the process of building a porch to the house
There are several mistakes that are made in the work most often. Let's get acquainted with them.
- Mistake #1. The construction of the porch is carried out after the completion of the construction of the house itself. In such cases, the depth of the foundation is not significant, moreover, it is not associated with the foundation of the house. Consequently, the foundation is affected by groundwater, heaving of the soil, as well as a number of other factors leading to the fact that cracks appear between the porch and the house.
- Mistake #2. Wooden support poles, which are used in the case of arranging a wooden porch, are not treated with antiseptic preparations. The result of such an error is obvious - after some time, the structure has to be rebuilt.
- Mistake #3. The height of the platform is the same as the height of the entrance to the house. In winter, when the soil rises, the height of the porch increases, which can cause jamming of the front door.
- Mistake #4. There is no vapor barrier or it is of poor quality. As a result, moisture will seep through the structure and reach the cladding, which does not allow steam to pass through. Further, this steam will turn into water and simply remain under this material. With the onset of cold weather, moisture will begin to expand, which will lead to a breakdown of the finish.
Do-it-yourself porch made of stone or brick
We left this option to the very end, since it is perhaps the most difficult and time-consuming, so not everyone is able to do everything with their own hands. And it is not surprising, because building a foundation out of bricks, where there is no particular need for accuracy, is one thing, but laying it out perfectly evenly is quite another.
It's no secret that professional masons are engaged in laying bricks only if there are several helpers, whose job is to prepare the cement mortar and supply it in a timely manner. As for the stone, things are somewhat more difficult for them, because uneven edges are extremely reluctant to fit together. In a word, if you do not have experience and a couple of assistants, then it is better to immediately forget about the porch made of stone or brick, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money.
It is much easier to build a concrete staircase, and then choose a facing stone or tile for steps, the size of which is as close to natural as possible. After that, you can easily overlay the entire structure. Among other things, this method is attractive in that even if you make some mistake, then you can easily chip off the desired piece of cladding and repeat the finish without any problems.
How about a canopy over the porch?
If we talk about the visor, then it will serve not only to protect the porch and the staircase itself from rain or snow, but also as a decorative element in the design of the structure. On the net you can find a lot of different options for a visor, in addition, there are photographs in print media specializing in suburban construction.
Note! In most cases, visors are made from a frame - metal or softwood - and polycarbonate / plexiglass as a sheathing material.
Tellingly, visors made of wood must be tinted every few years or, alternatively, coated with special compounds, otherwise the wood will dry out and begin to crack along the fibers. The thickness of the polycarbonate used here should be 7 millimeters, and it is recommended that the material be laid in spans of a maximum of 0.7 square meters. You should not use glass for this, because in winter it may not withstand the mass of snow cover and simply crack (another reason for this may be the deformation of the wood).
Note! The visor should have a larger area than the entire porch to the house with your own hands, by about 50 centimeters. Otherwise, the performance of the main function - protective - can be forgotten.
In the instructions for pouring the base, we already mentioned that it is preferable to install support pillars under the visor even during the formation of the foundation. It is better to install your visor on such supports. In addition, this option will allow in the future (if such a need arises) to equip a closed glazed veranda in just two to three hours.
As for the coating, they can serve as sheet metal, on top of which a beautiful tile is laid, but it is still better to use polycarbonate or plexiglass, which we just mentioned.
Note! To protect the metal that covers the visor from corrosion, paint it with two or three coats of a suitable paint.
It is also important that the visor turned out to be pitched, and on it there was a metal chute installed at a slight slope. We also recommend attaching a chain almost to the ground to the end of this gutter so that water does not splash around when it rains. And in this case, it will smoothly flow down the chain. To avoid the appearance of puddles near the porch, you can equip drainage at the drain point.
Glazed porch - is it possible?
Such a solution as a closed porch has become increasingly popular in recent years. Transparent glass structures look extremely attractive, which is why many are eager to build something similar near their home.
What is a glazed porch? In fact, this is a simple foundation made of stone or concrete with a ladder and a canopy (the latter must be on piles). By means of corners, the length of which corresponds to the height of the piles, a frame is created.
Note! Sheets can be of any height, while the width must be a maximum of 1.2 meters. If the sheet is wider, then its windage will be so strong that the wind, which has a speed of 30 meters per second, will easily break 5 mm glass.
If the distance between the piles is more than 1 meter, then it is better to break them with pseudo-piles. Similarly, you can divide the height using a pair of double corners for this. Thanks to this, you will reduce the load on the sheets of glass, and the porch to the house with your own hands will still be light and transparent.
As you can see, you don’t need any specific skills or knowledge to build a porch yourself, since even the most complex options can be handled with your own hands. Each of the described operations is basic for the construction industry, and a person with skillful hands will perform them without problems.
That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters! And for a more detailed acquaintance with the issue, we recommend that you watch the thematic video below.
Video - We make a porch with our own hands
What is a porch, why is it and what functions does it perform?
The porch is an extension to the house, which through the steps makes it easier to enter / exit the door. Since the porch usually has a canopy, this is an additional protection for the doorway from the sun, rain and snow.
In addition, the porch acts as a decorative element that makes the exterior of the house complete and its operation convenient.
As a rule, the parameters of the porch are thought out even at the stage of building a house, cottage or cottage. But often the porch is attached to an existing building.
Traditionally, the same material from which it was built is used to build a porch in front of a house (for example, a wooden or brick house). The porch can be made of wood, concrete, metal, brick. It is important that the selected material (for steps, cladding, porch trim) is in harmony with the overall design of the house.
Due to the fact that wood is the most popular, as well as affordable and inexpensive material, most often the porch is built from wood. Therefore, we will consider in detail (step by step) how to organize the construction of a wooden porch. Another argument in favor of lumber is the ease of working with wood, which makes it possible to make a wooden porch with your own hands.
Wooden porch to a private house - project
Construction begins with the development of a project that takes into account:
Porch types
Porch construction
- built-in porch - built together with the house, has a common foundation with it;
- attached (attached porch) - completed during the operation of the house.
Material for porches in a private house
- wood;
- concrete;
- metal (forging, steel, iron);
- brick (stone).
Methods for arranging a wooden porch
Implementation is possible in two versions:
This method is simpler and consists in the fact that a wooden box (or a porch frame made of a metal profile) is installed on the prepared site, on which steps are installed.
This option is also more budgetary, it can be implemented at any stage of construction or operation of the house. A closed wooden porch makes it possible to hide all the flaws that arise during the construction phase;
The peculiarity of this method is that the base frame is prepared only for the lower part of the kosour / string, and the upper one rests on beams or a floor slab. This way of building a porch gives more opportunities for the implementation of original solutions.
How to make a wooden porch with your own hands without mistakes
Before we tell you how to build a wooden porch, we will describe the main mistakes that novice craftsmen may encounter.
- stylistic mistakes. The dimensions, appearance, material of the porch should be in harmony with the general appearance of the building (house design);
- errors in the size of the porch. The porch should be proportional to the main building;
- measurement errors. Each parameter is measured several times and plotted on the diagram;>
Note. Professionals advise putting on the diagram not only the dimensions of the porch, wooden frame, but also other parameters: the size of the doorway, the distance from the porch to plants or protruding decorative elements. This information is useful, if necessary, correct the drawing of the porch.
- waste of material. Eliminated by careful planning.
- ignoring the requirements for structural strength. The porch is the most exploited part of the building. In addition, it is exposed to external factors, which means that the material must be chosen with a margin of safety and taking into account the dimensions of the porch;
- provide additional protection to the wooden porch. Untreated wood gradually loses its properties, therefore it needs protection and constant care;
Note. Both open parts of the structure and load-bearing parts need protection, i.e. those that are placed in the ground or rest on a foundation.
- dissociation of the foundations of the house and the porch (on different (separate) foundations) will lead to uneven shrinkage of the porch and the appearance of a crack between the elements. To avoid this, the threshold installed at the junction of the porch to the house will allow. Or setting the threshold without a march, with the first step 150-170 mm below the threshold. But this is fraught with injuries, because, leaving the door, the user is forced to go down;
- the absence of a foundation leads to the fact that the porch "floats" under the influence of soil displacement (shear);
- door jamming (blocking, jamming). Occurs due to geological changes (frozen soil is able to raise the porch a couple of centimeters).
How to build a porch in the house
Porch material
To make a beautiful wooden porch you will need building material:
- for supports, a beam with a section of 100x200 mm is suitable. The size depends on the type of porch, the expected load, the number of supports, etc. When choosing wood for supports, it is better to give preference to larch or pine, due to the presence of resins, they withstand all-season operating conditions well;
- for the entrance platform from the steps, you can use a board with a thickness of 30-50 mm;
- finished balusters and railings. Or timber and rail for their manufacture. The dimensions of the lumber depend on the parameters of the future product.
- solutions, compositions and impregnations for wood protection;
- cement mortar (concrete);
Note. The use of 50 mm boards both on supports and on steps will avoid calculation errors, reduce waste and, in general, use lumber more rationally.
Drawing of a wooden porch
Even a simple (typical) drawing, drawn by yourself, will help to avoid difficulties in its construction.
The drawing of the porch must contain the data:
- porch appearance. It makes it possible to visualize the final view of the structure;
- porch width - should be one and a half times wider than the doorway (you can calculate how wide the porch should be in this way: multiply 1.5 by the width of the door, this will be the minimum allowable width). This width will allow you to open the door while on the porch platform;
- the width of the stairs to the porch (flight of stairs) - must be at least 700 mm. Otherwise, there will be difficulties in moving people and objects along the steps;
- the location of the platform (flooring) of the porch. The floor of the porch should be 30-50 mm below the threshold (doorway). The porch platform lowered down will prevent the doors from blocking due to snow or raising the porch structure;
- the angle of the porch;
Note. Professionals advise making the slope of the porch and steps 2-3 ° to avoid water accumulation. An alternative would be to install deck boards with a gap of 2-3 mm.
- foundation. Types, depth of laying, characteristics of the soil under it;
- the number and size of steps of the porch. The standard recommends adhering to the following dimensions of steps: height - 170-180 mm, step depth (tread) - 300-350 mm. It is desirable that the number of steps be odd. Such dimensions will make the movement on the steps comfortable;
- the presence and place of installation of the fence (balusters and railings).
Note. In construction practice, there are no norms and rules governing the parameters of the porch. The recommendations concern only the parameters of the steps.
A drawing of a wooden porch, as a good example:
Scheme of a wooden porch
It is convenient to work when the scheme of the wooden porch is made on a large sheet of paper and is always in front of your eyes.
A good alternative would be a life-size cardboard template. A paper template is indispensable in the manufacture of a flight of stairs on a bowstring.
Foundation under the porch of the house
Properly selected and poured foundation for a wooden porch is the key to its strength and durability.
A wooden staircase to the porch can be installed without a foundation. But its filling will avoid the displacement of the porch due to seasonal movement of the soil.
When building a porch, you can choose one of the following types of foundation:
Columnar. Good for lightweight construction. The number of support pillars depends on the size of the porch.
Slab. Structurally, it is a monolithic concrete slab. Designed for heavy (massive) structures. The slab foundation in most cases does not need to be tied to the foundation of the main structure (house).
Tape. It has a significant margin of safety, while requiring less material costs. A connection with the foundation of the house is required.
The material was prepared for the site www.site
What is the best foundation for a porch?
Some users recommend equipping a strip foundation for the porch. In this case, the likelihood of a discrepancy between the porch and the house is eliminated, as when using a columnar one. And also the consumption of material is reduced, in comparison with slab. The complexity of arranging this type of foundation is that it needs to be tied to the house.
How to tie (tie) the foundation of the porch and the house?
First of all, the adjacent foundations of the porch and the house must have a single depth.
It is better not to fill the place of attachment (fastening, connection) of the foundations immediately, but leave a technical gap (a gap of 20-30 cm), in which there will be connecting elements (studs, reinforcement).
In the old foundation of the house, holes are drilled at a distance of 50-60 mm and studs with expanding anchors are hammered. From the new porch foundation, make a reinforcement tap to these studs. Simply wired (do not twist or weld).
After the new foundation "settles" (stands) for a year (or at least winter), preferably under load, you can connect the reinforcement (tie, twist, weld). Pour the bond with concrete mortar.
The diagram below shows how to make a wooden porch with the foundation tied to the house.
What is the depth of the foundation under the porch
The depth of the foundation for the porch should correspond to the depth of the foundation of the house and is below.
A strip foundation is definitely a great solution for building a porch. However, not everyone needs a massive structure. After all, most of the flights of stairs of the porch are built using stringers or bowstrings. In this case, it is not necessary to fill in a strip foundation, but to give preference to a pile or column foundation. Equipping such a foundation, you need to make concrete "cushions" for the supports and the base of the stringer / bowstring.
The method of constructing a concrete cushion is shown in the diagram.
How to build a wooden porch for a house
Consider the technology of erecting porches on pillars (piles, supports, beams) made of wood.
The construction of a porch on a foundation in the form of a support cushion for pillars (support pedestals) will be justified only if a number of rules are followed:
- the base of the kosour should rest against the waterproofing laid between the foundation and the wood of the kosour;
- for supports it is better to take coniferous wood, it is preferable in conditions of high humidity;
Advice. When choosing lumber for a support, it is better to give preference not to a 100x100 mm beam, but to two 50x100 boards fastened together.
- the wood of the supports should be treated with an antiseptic;
Note. The support should be processed to a height of 150-200 mm from the soil level. In this case, it is undesirable to use only It prevents the entry of air, and the process of wood decay begins from the inside. It is better to use drying oil or used engine oil.
- installation depth of supports at least 800 mm;
- the wider and more massive the structure, the more supports should be;
- after the concrete with which the supports are poured dries, you need to check their height. Correct height difference;
Note. When making a wooden porch, it is necessary to consider waterproofing and a drainage system. This will avoid distortion of the porch structure.
It is worth noting that there is no fundamental difference in how to build a porch for a wooden house or a brick one. It is important to make an informed choice of the type of foundation and, if necessary, correctly bind it to the foundation of the house.
Porch decking and step installation
User opinions differ on this issue. Some advise to fit the flooring boards as closely as possible to each other in order to prevent the appearance of cracks characteristic of dry wood, as well as to make a slope of 1.5-2 ° allowing water to flow calmly from the flooring.
Others recommend leaving a gap of 2-3 mm so that water flows down unhindered. At the same time, they argue that these gaps do not entail the risk of injury when walking on the floor (except for stilettos). Wooden steps for the porch - you can buy ready-made or make your own. If the latter option is selected, the detailed description is given below.
How to make steps for a wooden porch
Steps are installed, starting from the lower edge of the kosour / bowstring. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which must be sunk into the wood to avoid injury.
First, the riser is mounted, then the step. This is due to the fact that it is easier to maintain dimensions.
When arranging a ladder on a stringer, the steps are attached to it. Options for attaching steps to the bowstring are shown in the diagram.
Wooden porch railing
It is important to note that if there are more than 3 steps at the flight of stairs, it is desirable to equip it with a fence. Porch fencing can be metal (forged, stainless steel), wood, brick, stone (or concrete). Wooden railings for the porch can become not only a guarantee of the safety of movement, but also an additional decoration.
Recommendation. Provide safety elements - anti-slip coating on the steps of the porch (non-slip, anti-slip, rubber, rubber coating, tile, rug). After all, frozen moisture (icing) makes movement on them dangerous.
With the question of how to make a wooden porch sorted out, now it is important to learn how to extend the period of its operation.
How to protect a wooden porch - care
A canopy over the porch will protect the wooden steps and the structure as a whole from the effects of external factors (from the sun, snow and rain). A wooden canopy over the porch of a wooden house will look especially good. For buildings made of other materials (for example, for a stone house), polycarbonate, corrugated board, tiles or other roofing materials are suitable. The visor can be made on racks or without them. The main thing is that the visor supports do not interfere with movement.
Wood processing is divided into pre-operational and operational. The first involves the application of special compounds before the construction of the porch begins. The composition of the solutions will reduce the tendency of wood to rot, warp, dry out, etc. And the second - will make it possible to preserve the original appearance of the structure. Such processing can include painting, waxing or varnishing.
Wood porch painting
- pine wood needs to be opened (coated) with paint in several layers and periodically updated layer;
- before applying the paint, you need to open (treat, impregnate) the wood with a primer;
Advice. The primer will retain the properties of the wood, but the surface will need to be painted every 3-6 years. Without impregnation, the paint will last up to 10 years, but the properties of the tree will deteriorate significantly.
- covering pine with transparent compounds is not recommended. Sand and dirt are pressed into soft rock;
- larch or hardwood wood can be opened with transparent compounds. The Vermeister Deck.Oil impregnation oil has proven to be excellent;
- when choosing how to paint a wooden porch on the street, you need to know that the compositions for coating wood outside and inside the house may differ. To paint a wooden porch from the street (outside), use the following paints, enamels:
- oily (due to the pungent odor, they are gradually losing popularity);
- water-based (need to be constantly updated);
- alkyd (resistant to moisture and mechanical abrasion);
- polyurethane (used mainly in industrial conditions);
- reactive (consist of two components, their distribution is limited by high cost and short time for application after mixing the components).
- each update of the coating on wood is carried out only after cleaning the surface from the previous layer of old paint.
How to attach a wooden porch - video
Compliance with the steps listed above will allow you to create a beautiful, reliable and functional wooden porch with your own hands.
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