Milling table from a manual router. Do-it-yourself table for a router with drawings

The milling machine is designed to perform various work on the surface treatment of materials and parts. When working with large machines that are mounted on the work surface, it is necessary to use special tables. In this case, it turns out to achieve a better result, the work itself will be safer, since it is not the machine that moves in the form of a simple manual milling cutter, but the workpiece.

It is the milling table, on which the equipment will be fixed permanently, that allows you to get a high-quality result. The table can be assembled by hand, it will be convenient to make curly holes on it, grooved joints with pre-cutting, edge profiling different type. The work becomes simple, safe and accurate, the time required for it is much less. The machine can be securely fixed on the work surface, only the workpiece will move.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

To make a milling table, you need to prepare tools and materials:

frame, i.e. bed, it can be assembled from wooden board or steel pipes;
welding machine for welding pipes along the frame;
tabletop can be used from kitchen table, chipboard is also suitable;
pads for the end parts of the tabletop;
self-tapping screws;
special mounting plate, metal or textolite;
manual milling machine;
drive for the machine (its power is determined according to the planned work).

Milling table It has two important parts - the bed and the countertop. The bed is a permanently reinforced element, i.e. a frame on special supports. At the top of this frame, the main working surface is attached - the countertop. The basis is best made from chipboard, steel pipes, wooden beams. When using steel pipes individual elements structures need to be welded, so at home many people prefer to work with wood.

When fastening the tabletop, it must be installed securely and firmly, since various loads will be applied to it during the processing of parts. Overlays are used for the end part, they allow you to give the structure additional rigidity and strength. The height of the resulting table should be approximately 850-900 mm, it is this value that is optimal, convenient for work. For the countertop, you can provide a special mechanism that will allow you to raise or lower the work surface to the required level. The tabletop itself can be made of chipboard or an old kitchen base that has the required dimensions.

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Assembly of the structure

When installing, attention should be paid to a special mounting plate. The thickness of the tabletop will be approximately 26 mm. The insert is used to avoid cutter overhang during operation. It is attached to the place where, after the final assembly, the sole of the milling machine will be installed. The thickness of the plate is not too large, but at the same time its strength is at the proper level.

It is best to make a mounting plate from metal or textolite. Its thickness should be 4-8 mm. A hole is made in the center of the mounting plate, the diameter of which is equal to the hole in the sole of the machine. To strengthen the machine on the surface of the plate, it is necessary to provide special threaded connections on the back of the sole. If there are no such holes, then they must be made by hand. The total number is 4.

The milling table is assembled in this way:

First you need to attach the tabletop to the frame, and do it temporarily to determine the position.
It is necessary to lay the mounting plate on a pre-calculated place, after which mark the contour with a pencil.
Using a conventional manual milling machine, it is necessary to select a hole along the marked contour. After that, the plate will be laid flush evenly and clearly.
Angles at seat should be rounded, this is achieved with a file. After planting the prepared plate, it is necessary to use a straight cutter (its thickness should be greater than that of the future working surface) to make a through hole in the shape of the sole of the machine.

During work, it is required to observe accuracy and accuracy so that the table after assembly becomes comfortable and durable, and the mounting of the machine is reliable. Immediately it must be foreseen that the milling table will have protective covers, dust collectors. If all preparatory work completed, it is necessary to connect individual parts together. The milling machine is started during installation from below, the mounting plate is fixed to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed in the material, otherwise they will interfere during the processing of the workpieces, clinging to their surface.

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Installing the top pressure and drive

When you assemble a milling table with your own hands, it is necessary to mount a structure with pressure clamps to ensure additional safety. upper devices. Such safety measures are applied when work is carried out with large workpieces, for example, in the manufacture of various door linings.

The clamp itself has a simple device. This is a ball bearing, it acts as a roller that is mounted in a special holding device. After that, the roller is rigidly fixed on the surface of the working milling table at the required distance. As a result, a sufficiently tight clamping of the workpiece to the working surface during processing is guaranteed.

If a home-made milling machine is being made, then the utmost attention is paid to the electric drive device. An important criterion is the power of the drive, which will guarantee the performance of certain types of processing. For example, if you need to make a shallow recess in a wooden blank, then you can use a motor with a power of 500 V. But such a machine is not suitable for more complex work. Therefore, taking a low-power motor, if intensive work is planned, is not worth it, it will constantly stall.

It is best to set the drive to 1100 V, it is optimal for any machine, not only household

The difference in cost is fully justified, since with the help of this router it will be possible to perform various works. A drive with a power of up to 2 kW makes it possible to work with any type of wood using various milling cutters. Drives can be stationary or manual, the table must be provided special system fasteners.

When choosing a drive for a milling table, attention should be paid to the number of revolutions. For three-phase motor a special wiring diagram should be provided to ensure smooth start-up and accurate operation. If a single-phase network is used for such a motor, then the efficiency will drop by about 40-50%.

It is very difficult to cut grooves accurately and in size. For the manufacture of legs of tables and chairs, milling, jointing or drilling machines with special fixtures and moving tables. In the absence of stationary machines, the grooves are cut out with a manual milling cutter using a stop.

To cut a groove, you need to adjust the entire system of tables and clamping devices by eye, and the first time you almost always get an error. After additional settings, the error is eliminated, and you can make a backlog of parts. It is difficult to hold a hand-held milling cutter with your own hands, and sometimes during vibration there are errors and races towards the stop, especially when it hits a knot.

The problem is even more complicated if the part is single, or the groove is located at a great distance from the edge of the board.

original idea

The table recommended in the article has a small weight and dimensions. It is quickly transferred, rebuilt and allows you to select grooves with great accuracy, quality and without errors. Working with a manual router with the help of the proposed table becomes simple and safe.

Important! The advantage and feature of the idea is that with the help of a transparent plexiglass material it is very quick and convenient to install the structure, aligning it with the marks on the workpieces.

The table for a manual router presented in the article is easy to do with your own hands.

Preparation for work

In order to make a table design for a manual router, you must have available the following materials and accessories:

materials

Name	Type and dimensions, mm	Quantity
Scotch		1
Double-sided adhesive tape		1
Fluoroplastic plate	300x300x20	1
plexiglass	500x500, thickness 6-8
Adhesive for plastic

Accessories

Name	Type and dimensions, mm	Quantity
Countersunk screw	M8, length 30	6
Countersunk screw	M8, length 60	2
Furniture bolt	M8, length 60	4
nuts	M8	6
washers	M8	6
wing nuts	M8	6

Instruments

List of tools used in the manufacture of homemade fixtures:

ruler;
cutting knife;
thick marker;
pencil;
finger cutters 10 mm, 16 mm;
cutter conical;
manual frezer;
joiner's square;
clamps;
8 mm;
head for a chamfer on a drill;

The process of making a homemade table

Advice! To protect against chips, adhesive tape is glued in places of the slot. To this end, they also protect the places for drilling holes in plexiglass, with a drill with a chamfer head.

After that, the tape is removed. With a simple felt-tip pen, draw a line of the slot so that it clearly manifests itself.

Two strips of 500x50 mm in size are cut from plexiglass for the manufacture of guides for the milling table. The edges of the guides are ground to reduce friction.

Further, in the lower side of the plate for the platform, 3 holes are drilled on both sides. Carry out this operation with a chamfer head drill. The countersunk head screws will be inserted into these holes from below. On one of the plexiglass guide strips, 3 holes are cut, respectively. Then one guide is connected to the platform and the nuts and washers are baited.

A conical cutter is installed on a hand mill. The milling cutter is pressed against the platform, while the end of the cutter is aligned with the line in the center of the platform, and the bolt is clamped on the guide. Repeat this operation at the other end of the guide, and tighten all the bolts. Screw the second guide in the same way.

Thus, the hand router slides along the plexiglass platform along the guides, which rigidly fix it on both sides, avoiding errors and errors.

Then, using a milling machine, a groove for the cutter is cut, having previously marked its dimensions with a felt-tip pen on the platform. Since its width must be 1 mm larger than the largest finger cutter available, the groove is made in 3 passes.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make equipment for fastening the limiters from polystyrene. The limiters move and are fixed on the limiter base, which is attached to the table platform.

Cut blanks from polystyrene on a circular saw.
Milling grooves.
Drill holes for mounting.

The grooves are milled in the blanks of the limiters and inserted into the bases by threading the screws into the holes of the grooves. If necessary, the protruding screws are cut off with a grinder and the burrs are sanded with a file.

Drill holes in clamping bars.
A cutter is used to select a potai for the hats of furniture bolts.
Insert bolts into holes.

From the back of the platform, bars are inserted so that the bolts go into the slots for fixing the table. Wings are screwed onto furniture bolts and limiter screws.

The design of the milling table is made by hand, and is ready for use.

The procedure for using a homemade table

Beam milling

The workpiece is installed from below, covered on both sides with clamping bars and clamped. Using the markings on the plexiglass of the platform and the marks on the bar, the structure is oriented in such a way that the center of the bar is in the center of the platform. Clamp the lambs of the pressure bars. After that, the structure with the workpiece is clamped in a carpenter's vice.
With the help of markings on the bars, and a conical cutter, limiters are set and fixed.
Moving the hand mill along the guides from one limiter to another, changing the depth several times, select the grooves.

Milling grooves on the board

For this operation, you will need double-sided tape. The pressure bars are removed from the device.

Markings are made on the board with a pencil, adhesive tape is glued to the board and the platform is pressed against it in accordance with the markings.
Install and tighten the limiters.
Mill the groove.

The following figure shows the work of a manual router, made on bars and a board. The result of the assembly on spikes is also shown. All dimensions are perfectly accurate, and the process lasted for an hour.

Conclusion

A home-made table for a manual router is simple in execution, has a low cost. Along with this, it is quickly installed on the part, easily and accurately performs manual milling work. Using this device in the workshop, you can significantly increase the productivity of the carpenter.

Video

The milling table will facilitate your work and help to increase the accuracy of processing workpieces. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a router table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step by step instructions for table making.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small by building a simple countertop with upgradeability in mind. Work on it and gradually bring to mind.

Make a tabletop

The simplest table for a milling cutter is a separate working plate, placed on carpentry goats or between cabinets. The fixture costs a penny and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. You only need MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. A plastic-coated panel is better suited, which has less friction resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.

Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to the dimensions and grind the ends.

Cutting pattern: 1 - main plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness sheet material often deviating from the standard. Make adjustments to the drawings, eliminating problems during assembly of the structure.

Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the overlay so that the router's main controls are next to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the places for drilling the holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equidistant screws.

For a base with asymmetrical screws, measure the diameter of the rubber and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

S=D/2-(D-H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the mounting screw locations.

Drill mounting holes and under the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly leading to the marking line. Then lead the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Fasten the connecting strips from the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the blanks and fasten with additional screws. Pick up screws longer than the regular ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router at the bottom of the slab.

1 - side bar for fastening with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Fix the table on the goats with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Build a solid foundation

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. A portable table is stored on a rack, and is fixed on a workbench for work. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the table top and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet pieces to the dimensions shown for a 820mm high table, or modify them so that the tabletop is level with other equipment .

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Lay the countertop back side up. Install sequentially side panels and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Fasten the base, lay the frame face down, align the square corners and install the two back panels.

At the end, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the hull using roofing screws. Position the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.

1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal rack; 5 - rear panel

Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Insert mounting plate

Get a longer cutter overhang by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinaks or solid polycarbonate.

Cut out a 300 mm square from the sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top double sided tape laying it face up in the middle. With a drill of the same diameter as the fixing screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the body of the tool until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole according to the mark with a hole saw.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Fix the thin boards around the marked contour with clamps.

Clamp in collet copy cutter bearing, set the cutting depth to match the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer regulator of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the worktop with a 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, leveling with the screwed bolts.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, lay it in place, drill the fixing holes and countersink from the front. Attach the part to the sole of the router, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the tabletop plane, if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your focus

For faster and more convenient machine setup, modify the parallel side stop and complete the machine with a rotary stop to help finish the ends. narrow details. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides with a T-profile into the surface of the plate. To make cutouts in the countertop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.

Lightly round with sandpaper top corners grooves. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut out a plywood cover with a hole in the center, fasten it to the scarves located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.

Add a safety shield to the stop, made from plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7 mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangentially and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps needed for milling small elements.

A comb press can be made from maple wood, choosing a straight-grained area. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular machine:

Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
Set the cutting width to 2mm.
Make a cut.
Pull the workpiece back with the manual pusher.
Turn the board 180°, saw through the other side.
Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
Move the fence back again and make cuts all over the workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - nozzle for a vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of parts, especially in places where workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat with oil.

1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Summing up the project

Materials needed:

Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
Several dozen screws.
Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake — 4 pcs.
Glue joiner's and epoxy.
Bolts M6 with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through every step, accurately mark and cut blanks, or the desire to learn this, came in handy. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a milling height adjustment mechanism.

I think that those home craftsmen who have a manual router, but do not have a table for a router, have repeatedly thought about buying or making a table for a router. Since using a milling cutter stationary, the convenience of working with it greatly increases, especially when working with small elements. But for a home workshop, a table is often not justified, both for financial reasons, for example, like in my apartment. Therefore, as an option, you can use a small homemade milling table that is attached to a universal workbench or even to a regular table.

The simplest milling table

You can also make a table from an ordinary piece of chipboard or plywood by screwing a milling cutter to it. But you will need to take a material thick enough to have the necessary rigidity, and thick material will reduce the exit of the cutter and thereby reduce the depth of the grooves being machined. Therefore, all the same, it is worth making a box to the countertop, which will provide rigidity and reduce the thickness of the countertop.

In addition, it is very useful if the table has a side stop with adjustment and with the possibility of attaching a vacuum cleaner. Removing shavings and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner is very important when working in an apartment, and in the workshop, order and cleanliness will not interfere either.

This article describes the manufacture of such a table for a router with your own hands.

Starting with a box

First of all, a table box is made, this will require two pieces of thick plywood 18-21mm, which are glued together with PVA glue and pulled together with clamps. In total, we need 4 blanks.

In one of the blanks, using a hacksaw, we cut two grooves for the clamps. In this case, on the width of the groove, we make several cuts with a hacksaw, and remove the remains of plywood between the cuts with a chisel and a hammer.

We make a countertop

It is necessary to cut out the countertop, apply markings (the exit point of the cutter and holes for fasteners) for a specific router. We mark the holes for the screws securing the tabletop to the box.

When everything is marked, we drill all the holes with a drill, and you also need to countersink into the holes for the screws, then the countersunk screw will be deepened, will not protrude beyond the surface of the tabletop and therefore will not interfere when moving workpieces along the surface of the milling table.

Assembling the table

To do this, we need screws and a screwdriver.

Here is the base of the table.

When the table is assembled, two rods need to be twisted into the box through the tabletop. A rod is used on one side of which there is a “thread like a screw”, and on the other, a regular thread for a nut. In the future, at these degrees, with the help of lambs, a side stop for the router will be installed.

We proceed to the manufacture of the side stop. To do this, we need two pieces of plywood. One workpiece will be pressed against the table, and the part being machined by the milling cutter will slide along the second.

We drill holes through which the two workpieces will be combined into a single whole. We zenk them.

We make cutouts for the cutter with a Forstner drill.

With a hacksaw, we refine the cutouts for the cutter and make grooves for the clamping mechanism of the side stop.

With the help of rectangular plywood blanks, we assemble two blanks of the side stop at 90 degrees. We assemble a box for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

Now you need to embed the nozzle in the dust removal box and screw the box itself to the side stop.

It remains only to press the side stop to the table for a manual router with the help of lambs.

Here such an elegant and compact table for a router with their own hands can be made by anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands.

And this is a milling cutter in the table in the process of removing a quarter with a straight groove cutter.

In the future, it would be worth making protective screen for cutter, spotlight working area and an emergency stop button.

Make a milling table with your own hands, having drawings in front of you, necessary materials, fastening, not difficult. Some people think it's better to buy ready product. Others are sure that a homemade table allows you to accurately adapt the work site to your needs, the nuances of a CNC machine or a conventional manual router. What to choose is up to you.

To make yourself a table for a router, you first need to decide what it will be. The operation of a milling machine may vary depending on a number of factors, including the size of the machine itself.

Working on a table for a CNC milling machine begins with the fact that you choose which drawing will become the basis for manufacturing. Not infrequently, work is carried out without drawings. But then you must draw the parameters of the future table yourself, cut its elements using a circular saw. The components that will be required to make a homemade table should be selected based on its main elements.

Construction type. Work outside the workshop, and with constant movement provides for the choice of a portable table for a CNC machine or without program control. If the work will be carried out in a garage, a workshop without the need to carry a table, you should choose a stationary table for your router. There is an aggregate type. This is an option when expanding the table top of your milling machine or making a rotary version of the design.
Tabletop. To make the top of your table, use chipboard or MDF sheets. These materials are easily cut with a circular saw, so the work is not difficult. Many make a homemade table using a pressed table top. But it is important to understand that when working in conditions of increased dampness, they quickly swell and become unusable. Alternatively, you can choose plastic. An excellent practical countertop is created from polymer sheets. The metal is stronger, but heavy material. If you decide to choose aluminum, be sure to cover it with a protective varnish layer.
Groove and emphasis. Work on a milling machine usually involves longitudinal processing of the side of the workpiece. If you want to process transverse end elements, the design must include a movable stop. This emphasis will move in the grooves. The groove will also serve as a fixation of the clamping elements of the structure.
Milling cutter installation. Using a homemade table, the hand router can be attached to the table directly to the bottom of the tabletop or to a removable platform. The first option is easier to do, but if you choose the second method, you will get some advantages in the form of easier removal of the cutter when changing cutting tools. In this regard, the mounting plate is the preferred option, which will take a little longer to tinker with.
Longitudinal stop. This stop acts as a guide for the workpieces. Therefore, the most important requirement is that the emphasis must be as even as possible. Since this is a homemade table, you can make an emphasis using the T-slot. Clamping devices and other components are inserted into it, which make it easier to work on the machine.

All necessary elements can be cut with a circular saw. Making a homemade table is not a problem. The tabletop, stop, guides, fasteners are clearly indicated in size if you use standard drawings. Taking finished drawing, you can adapt a homemade table for a CNC machine to your own needs. Do what is best for you. Finding the drawings themselves is not difficult, and you probably have a circular in your arsenal of power tools, since you are going to make a table for a CNC machine.

Do it yourself

To make yourself a table for a manual router or a machine with a CNC module, you will need drawings and the necessary elements of the future design, which we described above.

When choosing a drawing for a future design for a milling machine, be sure to focus on the dimensions of your machine, as well as the dimensions of the space available for placing equipment. Make big table under small machine with CNC does not make sense, exactly, as well as vice versa.

You can always redo the drawing, make some corrections, based on available materials, features of the machine, the presence of a circular and other nuances. If you need a good coordinate table for a router, it is better to purchase a factory-made one. Making a homemade coordinate table is quite problematic.

We offer you the option of a small table, the work on which will allow you to easily place a small desktop CNC router or without a module. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to do it yourself, it has small size, not complex fasteners are used here.

The desktop and side racks are recommended to be made of laminated plywood. The material must be thick enough to withstand the load. Approximate dimensions countertops will be 40 by 60 millimeters. Not taking into account the corner stop, the height will be 35 cm. The corner stop itself has a height of 10 cm. Instead of plywood, a metal or plastic plate can be used. The plate made of such materials is more durable and less prone to wear. But metal plate will add weight, making the table not so mobile and light.
On the surface of the tabletop, make three grooves that will serve to install the rails. Auxiliary components of the future work surface can be installed here, which you may need to operate milling machines or a circular milling machine.
To increase the stability of the leg mounting structure, reinforce with chipboard or MDF sheets No. 22. The legs of the table must be set at some distance so that there is room for fixing templates and clamps with clamps.
You can close the mechanism of the machine by covering the bottom of the front panel with a sheet of plywood or other similar material.
Under the side stop, grooves must be made along which it can move. At the required place, the stop is fixed with bolts and nuts. And it is better to use wing nuts. In this case, you can easily remove the stop and put another unit in its place.
The stop is connected to a branch pipe, which is necessary to remove dust and chips during processing. To remove waste, use ordinary corrugated hoses, which are widely used in the organization of sewage. Through the clamp, you can connect a home vacuum cleaner.
If you have desktop machine, it is better to provide for the presence of a toggle switch to turn the machine on and off. If you do not have a desktop, but a simple manual milling cutter, such a toggle switch is not required.
The stop includes two elements that can move or move apart depending on the size of the working tool. To fix the sash, use the wing nuts. This design will allow you to easily remove the milling device from the bed and change the cutters as needed.
What material to use for mounting surface under the CNC milling machine, decide for yourself. Experts advise taking textolite or plexiglass.

A similar table for a desktop or manual milling machine can be made using a circular saw, an electric jigsaw and standard tools. The coordinate version of the table is much more complicated, because the work involves the use of appropriate drawings and materials.

Which table to choose for you - a coordinate or a regular home-made milling cutter with or without a CNC, decide for yourself. The work must be carried out with high quality, observing all the specified dimensions. Watch video instructions that will help you determine which table is right for your machine fit better Total.