Fine finishing of plasterboard walls. How is plasterboard wall cladding made? Communications and wiring

The use of drywall for wall cladding is beginning to replace traditional surface finishing materials. And all thanks to a lot of advantages: simplicity, lightness, inexpensive cost of GKL sheets, the ability to hide irregularities up to 20 mm. You can carry out the work yourself, without the involvement of help. It is enough to make calculations and choose the appropriate sheathing method: with or without a frame device.

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Features, advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL sheets are a versatile material that can be mounted on almost any surface. It has many advantages:

1. 1. The ability to quickly finish the walls and ceilings with your own hands. This eliminates the need for leveling solutions.
2. 2. The constructed structures fit perfectly into any design solution - you can create not only flat areas, but also curvilinear, decorative ones (arches, recesses).
3. 3. Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But due to the fact that he is afraid of moisture, you can not do without the use of waterproofing material.
4. 4. It is very convenient that the entire structure can be quickly dismantled if necessary.
5. 5. By using a metal frame, good rigidity of the base can be achieved, which will last for a long time.
6. 6. You can lay communications without creating additional "channels".
7. 7. The surface of drywall sheets is treated with any finishing materials.
8. 8. This method of wall alignment is optimal for internal wall insulation in a wooden house.

Before starting work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the shortcomings of drywall.

The main disadvantage is low strength. So, the GKL sheet may burst or crack during transportation, installation, operation. Therefore, it is important to carry out the work as carefully as possible. For the same reason, it is not recommended to use these materials in places where heavy loads are expected. If you plan to hang shelves on the wall for mounting TV, other equipment and heavy structures, it is best to finish with two layers of drywall.

Another disadvantage is poor soundproofing. To improve this parameter, one cannot do without laying mineral wool or other insulation.

It is worth considering in advance which drywall you will buy. It is divided into the following types:

• simple;
• with increased resistance to fire;
• moisture resistant.

The first type is usually used to decorate rooms with a normal level of humidity. Moisture resistant GKL sheets are used in rooms with a high level of humidity. GKL with high resistance to flame are suitable for kitchens, baths, and other similar premises.

We draw up an estimate - calculation of the amount of drywall

To carry out the lining, you must correctly make all the calculations. Here you do not need to have special knowledge in the field of mathematics - it is enough to calculate the quadrature of the room.

Take into account:

• height;
• width;
• room length.

It is necessary to measure the room around the entire perimeter, and not just in the corners, since the parameters can be different. This is especially worth remembering for owners of old buildings, where there is often a serious difference in ceiling height. To take measurements, you will need a pencil, tape measure, blank sheet.

Instructions for budgeting:

• we calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls by multiplying the height by the width;
• from the total area we subtract the area of ​​​​windows and doorways;
• we add to the obtained parameters another 15-20% of the material in reserve.

How to carry out preparatory activities?

The room needs to be freed from all objects, everything superfluous must be removed from the walls, communications and wiring must be removed.

Sheathing with this material closes defects, irregularities, therefore it is not necessary to align them. But it is worth checking the integrity of the coating. Wallpaper or old paint is removed, all existing cracks are sealed.

Wall surfaces must be cleaned of dust, primed.

You will need the following tools:

• GKL sheets;
• profiles;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• brackets;
• screwdriver

Frame sheathing technology - step by step instructions

In order to sheathe the walls with the highest quality, to get a result that will delight with a long service life, it is necessary to carefully follow the finishing technology using GKL sheets.

Marking and installation of guide profiles

Step back from the walls by 2-3 cm, draw a marking line where the guide profile will be installed. If you plan to sheathe all the walls in the rooms, then the markings should be carried out parallel to them. A guide profile is applied along the intended line and installed on self-tapping screws. On the sides of the walls, vertical guide profiles are mounted, screwed with screws at the base and ceiling.

Evenness must be checked using the building level.

Profile mounting

To fasten products, first make markings on the surface: draw strict vertical lines from ceiling to floor at a distance of 50-60 cm. Brackets are screwed along the markings with an interval of 0.5 m in height.

After that, they are inserted into the lower and upper guide profile, screwed with self-tapping screws. Each product additionally needs to be strengthened with brackets.



Communications and wiring

The next step is laying wiring and communications inside the premises. The main thing is that they do not act for the guides. For installation, you need to use special clamps. At this stage, it is very important to pay attention to sealing all joints, high-quality wire insulation. This will avoid the dismantling of GKL sheets to correct the situation.

Warming

Even if you do not want to insulate the walls, a layer of mineral wool or other material is still needed to improve sound insulation. The product is cut into strips so that their width is greater than the distance between the profiles by about 3-4 cm. The insulation is laid as tightly as possible so that there are no gaps between it.

wall cladding

Sheathing must be started from the corner: take the first sheet, attach it to the profile, align it along the edges and screw it onto self-tapping screws (there must be at least 30 cm between the fasteners). We install the next sheet of GKL side by side, aligning the joints on the profile, and mount it further around the entire perimeter of the room.

There are some important tips. It is impossible for the self-tapping screws to protrude above the sheets, but it is also not worth deepening them by more than 2 mm. For control, you can use a special bit with a limiter.



Seam sealing

Since the GKL sheets have slightly rounded edges, small seams form when they are joined. To seal them, putty, a spatula and a special reinforcing tape are required. They operate simply:

• knead the mixture;
• cut off a piece of sickle of the desired length;
• apply the mixture to the seam and apply a reinforcing tape;
• straighten the material, put a layer of putty on top and distribute it over the surface.

You should not make too thick a layer - several thin ones are better, moreover, applying putty after the previous layer has dried. When the material is completely dry, it is cleaned with sandpaper.

Joints at external corners must be closed with corner profiles, fixing to a layer of putty.

Finishing sheathing

To remove minor defects that may be on drywall, it should be finished with a layer of finishing putty, which is applied with a large metal spatula. If you plan to paint the walls in the future, then you need to apply at least two layers. When the material dries, go over the sheets with sandpaper. The top is finished with clapboard or wallpaper.

According to this step-by-step instruction, partitions in the apartment can also be made from drywall.

Sheathing with frameless method

With this method, drywall is glued to the walls on a special compound. Moreover, the work must be performed only after all the “wet” processes (laying the screed, plastering) are completed. This will prevent the sheets from absorbing excess moisture in the room.

With this method of wall cladding with drywall, the material is glued directly onto a bare surface. If it is as even as possible, without damage, the adhesive mixture should be applied around the perimeter of the sheet and 1-2 stripes in the center.

But if the walls are made of brick, stone (in this case, there may be serious differences up to 2 cm), the solution must be applied to the sheet area.

It is better to use compositions such as:

• glue "Perflix";
• putty "Fugenfüller".

But if the differences on the walls are more than 2 cm, they should be leveled using plasterboard linings. To do this, you need to cut a sheet of plasterboard into strips about 10 cm wide, mount them on top of each other to get a flat wall.

Do not forget to clean the surfaces from dust, old finishing material and primer before gluing drywall sheets.

October 28, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

As statistics show, self-finishing of housing is most often carried out using drywall on the walls. However, not all home masters are familiar with the nuances of installing dry plaster, which often leads to various negative consequences. Therefore, in this article, I decided to tell you in detail how to properly cover the walls with drywall.

Plasterboard wall cladding options

First of all, I note that there are two technologies for wall cladding with drywall:

Sheathing technology	Peculiarities
frame	It consists in mounting on the walls of the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with drywall. The frame allows you to correct any unevenness of the walls, as well as hide communications or place insulation between the walls and the sheathing.
Frameless	This technology of plasterboard wall cladding is applicable if their surface does not have serious irregularities, and there is no need to insulate the walls or hide communications under the cladding. The essence of this method is to glue the GKL directly to the wall using a special glue. This significantly reduces the wastage of space in the room.

Frame technology

Sheathing the walls of the GKL frame method is carried out in several steps:

Below we will consider each stage in detail.

Preparation of materials

Before sheathing the GKL walls, you need to prepare the following materials:

• drywall itself - for walls it is desirable that it has a thickness of 12.5 mm. If the humidity level is increased in the room, for example, in the bathroom, moisture-resistant drywall should be used;

• frame mounting materials - guides and main profiles, as well as brackets, hangers and crosses (crabs). To fasten all the elements of the frame, you will need special screws;
• acrylic;
• putty for walls - is selected depending on the type of room, as well as the type of finish. You can learn more about the choice of putty from other articles on our portal.

Now you can proceed to further work.

Markup execution

Marking is one of the most important stages of sheathing, since it depends on how smooth the walls will be. The instruction for its implementation looks like this:

1. First of all, you need to apply markings on the ceiling. To do this, step back from the wall a distance equal to the thickness of the frame, and draw points near two opposite adjacent walls.

If you do not plan to lay the insulation inside the frame and place communications behind it, the thickness of the frame should be kept to a minimum - about 4 cm. This is the thickness of the profile and brackets;

1. further, such points must be designated for all walls that will be sheathed with plasterboard;
2. all points on the ceiling must be connected to each other with lines using a masking cord. To connect two points, pull a cord between them, then pull it down like a bowstring and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling and leave a trail in the form of a straight line;
3. when all the lines are drawn, you need to make sure that the angle between them is 90 degrees. Otherwise, they need to be corrected;

1. then the resulting lines should be transferred to the floor. To do this, you can use plumb lines or draw horizontal lines on adjacent walls with your own hands using a building level;
2. now on the wall you need to mark the location of the PP profiles. To do this, step back from the corner about 1 cm and draw a vertical line on the wall from the ceiling to the floor. All subsequent lines should be in 60 cm increments;
3. then on the resulting lines it is necessary to designate the location of the brackets. The step between them should be 50 cm;

According to this scheme, it is necessary to mark all the walls where the plasterboard sheathing is planned.

Frame installation

Now you can start assembling the frame. It is necessary to take this work very responsibly, since it depends on the frame how strong the plasterboard sheathing will turn out, rigid and durable.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. start assembling the frame by installing rails on the ceiling and floor. First you need to cut the profiles along the length with scissors for metal;
   To fix the guides, as a rule, dowel nails are used. If the house is wooden, for example, in the country, you can use self-tapping screws;
2. then you need to install brackets on the wall according to the markings. Their installation is also carried out with the help of dowel-nails or self-tapping screws;

1. then you can proceed with the installation of PP profiles, starting from the corner. I must say that there are several options for arranging the corners of the frame. The simplest is shown in the diagram above.
   Before fixing the profiles in the brackets with self-tapping screws, be sure to apply a level and make sure they are even;

1. to increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to connect all the racks with crossbars, which are fastened with crosses. True, you can do without crosses by cutting the PP profile and bending the sides as in the photo above.
   The step between the jumpers should be 50 cm, and they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

The walls of a frame house can be sheathed with drywall without a frame, i.e. attach the sheets directly to the supporting frame.

According to this principle, a frame is installed on all walls.

Drywall installation

So, we got acquainted with the assembly of the frame, now we will consider how to sheathe it. Before proceeding with this operation, it is advisable to immediately cut the drywall sheets.

To cut the GCR into two parts, you must perform the following steps:

1. draw a cut line on a sheet of drywall with a pencil and a rule or a long ruler;
2. then cut the cardboard along the marked line;

1. then break the sheet and fold it:
2. then cut the cardboard from the back along the bend line;
3. it is advisable to immediately process the end face with a special planer for drywall.

Cut sheets of drywall so that their joints fall on the profile. Otherwise, cracks may form at the joints.

If you need to cut a curved drywall part, you can use a jigsaw for this purpose. It is easiest to make round holes for sockets or switches with an electric drill with a special crown. True, it is more convenient to engage in this operation after sheathing the frame.

Now we sheathe the walls with drywall. Sheets are fastened with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 25 cm. Be sure to drown the hats so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.

It is difficult to attach the sheets to the frame alone, as they are large and quite heavy. Therefore, it is advisable to involve an assistant in this work, especially if you are doing this operation for the first time.

Rough finish

After the completion of the frame sheathing, a rough finish of the plasterboard walls is performed, i.e. they are puttying. To do this, you must perform the following steps:

1. start work by preparing the joints of the sheets. First of all, cut a 5 mm chamfer from smooth edges (if they were not processed by a planer after cutting);
2. then stick a self-adhesive sickle tape on the joints;

1. now the surface of the walls needs to be primed. It is more convenient to perform this procedure with a paint roller with a pallet.
   Try to apply the primer in a thin even layer. For processing hard-to-reach places, you can use a paint brush. Be sure to apply a second coat of primer after the first has dried;
2. then you need to putty the joints of the sheets and the caps of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty. To perform this procedure, you will need a narrow or small;

1. when the composition hardens, you need to cover the entire surface of the walls with a starting putty. This operation should be performed with a wide spatula, trying to apply the putty as accurately and evenly as possible..
   To level the inner corners, use a special corner trowel. Perforated corners are glued to the outer corners, as shown in the photo above. They not only make the corners even, but also protect them from chipping.
   You can learn more about how to putty walls on your own from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;

1. after the surface has hardened, sand the putty with a jointer with P80 - P120 abrasive to remove the most serious surface flaws;
2. then the surface of the walls must be wiped or vacuumed to remove dust, and then primed again;
3. if the walls are pasted over with wallpaper, then they do not need further finishing. If you plan to paint them, then you need to apply a thin layer of finishing putty to eliminate minor flaws on the surface. Polymer putty is best suited for these purposes, although its price is slightly higher than gypsum;
4. after hardening of the finishing layer, the surface must be carefully sanded with a fine mesh P150. To control the quality of grinding, the work must be done in bright light.

This completes the drywall finishing process.

Frameless drywall installation

Now let's look at how the walls are covered with drywall without crates. This work also includes several stages:

Preparation of materials

To sheathe a wall with drywall in a frameless way, you need to prepare:

• drywall itself - the same sheets are used as for frame mounting;
• drywall glue, for example, Knauf Perflix is ​​suitable;
• deep penetration primer.

You can replace drywall glue with a regular starting putty.

Wall surface preparation

If the frame sheathing method does not require the preparation of walls, then before sheathing the room with drywall in a frameless way, special attention must be paid to this procedure. The work is carried out as follows:

1. First you need to remove the old finishing coating. If the walls are finished with ceramic tiles, it should simply be knocked down with a chisel and a perforator.
   If the walls are covered with wallpaper, they must first be moistened, then tucked with a spatula and torn off;
2. then walls must be wiped with a damp cloth to remove residues of wallpaper paste and other contaminants;
3. further, the walls must be primed with a deep penetration primer according to the scheme described above.

This completes the wall preparation process.

Gluing drywall

Finishing the room with drywall is carried out in the following sequence:

1. first, cut the plasterboard, so that in the future you do not waste time cutting them;
2. before sheathing the walls, drywall sheets should be primed from the back;
3. then prepare the adhesive solution according to the instructions on the package;
4. then the glue is applied to the drywall in a dotted way (with bloopers), as shown in the photo above, using a trowel or spatula;

1. now you need to attach a sheet of drywall to the wall and level it. So that deflections do not occur during the alignment process, you can press down the sheet with a rule or a long, even board. According to this principle, all walls are pasted over with GKL sheets.

After pasting the walls with drywall, it is necessary to perform a rough finish. This procedure is carried out according to the scheme described above.

Conclusion

Plasterboard wall cladding can be done in several ways. The choice of technology depends on the flaws of the walls. But, regardless of the method of finishing, in the process of work, it is necessary to strictly observe a certain procedure.

I recommend that you additionally watch the video in this article, which clearly shows the process of installing drywall. If any points are unclear to you, leave your questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

October 28, 2016

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Drywall is an easy-to-work, inexpensive, convenient and practical material for leveling curved walls, making light partitions from it, suspended ceilings, making complex cornices and false panels. When self-finishing with drywall, the sheets are glued to the facing surfaces with gypsum mastics, or they are attached to the crate (wooden or metal frame) with self-tapping screws.

materials

Plasterboard sheets

Gypsum boards (dry gypsum plaster) is a universal building material, which is a rectangular flat panel, consisting of a layer of hardened gypsum dough with fillers, and two layers of construction paper (cardboard), which is needed to give greater strength and smoothness to the surface.

Plasterboard sheets are divided into:

• Ordinary (GKL). It is used for mounting walls, partitions, ceilings, niches, slopes, boxes.
• Moisture resistant (GKV, GVL, GKLV, GVLV). Used in rooms with high humidity.
• With increased resistance to open flame (GKLO). Suitable for rooms with high requirements for fire resistance.
• Moisture resistant with increased resistance to open flame (GKLVO). Possess at the same time properties of moisture resistant and fire-resistant sheets.

Typically, sheets are 2,500 mm long and 1,200 mm wide. Thickness from 6.5 to 12.5 mm, depending on the purpose of the sheets.

Support frame elements

In the manufacture of frames for fixing drywall, various materials are used. Basically, when assembling frames, metal profiles made of galvanized steel are used.

Metal profiles are divided into:

• Guide profile (PN) - used as a guide when installing rack profiles.

• Rack profile (PS) - the main element for the frame device, to which drywall sheets are attached.

• Ceiling profile (PP) - designed for mounting the frame when installing suspended ceilings.

Wall covering

The internal walls in the premises are lined with gypsum boards in order not to perform the plastering operation. This method of finishing refers to dry methods. Plasterboard sheets make the walls smooth, making it possible to paste wallpaper and paint.

Gypsum boards are suitable for facing brick, concrete and wooden surfaces. Sheets can be fastened with the help of special mastics, adhesives and self-tapping screws to a metal and wooden frame.

Surface cladding with adhesives

Surface preparation

This method allows you to sheathe the walls with drywall with your own hands and is suitable if the supporting frame takes up a lot of space, and the height of the premises does not exceed the height of the drywall sheet, since this method does not allow the creation of horizontal joints.

To begin with, the surface is cleaned, all irregularities on the wall are removed, then markings are applied to the wall for the installation of drywall panels. Also, before preparation, it is necessary to perform all electrical work. The room in which the work is carried out must be pre-dried.

The walls are checked by hanging in the horizontal and vertical planes, with the further installation of beacons and marks. Beacons (brands) are called gypsum mortar guides superimposed on the wall surface in one plane.

In order to install gypsum beacons, it is necessary to hammer nails in the corners of the wall from above and below so that they protrude 30 mm from the surface. Depending on the height of the room, intermediate nails are hammered. Then stretch the cord horizontally, vertically and diagonally so that it is at a distance of about 18 mm from the wall surface. Beacons should be installed under the cord, at least 15 mm high.

Then, beacons are installed under each sheet of drywall so that the vertical rows fall on the joining line of the two sheets. To do this, the wall is divided into grips, the width of which is equal to the width of the drywall sheets. The size of the beacons must be at least 80 × 80 mm so that the sheet has a reliable support. On each vertical line there must be at least 3 beacons, the centers of which are arranged along the axis of the joint of the sheets, so that the edges of two sheets can be supported on them. In this case, the upper beacon is installed at the ceiling level, and the lower one - at the floor level.

Intermediate beacons are created between the vertical beacons so that the sheet in the center does not bend during gluing.

Bonding drywall sheets

There are two ways to glue drywall with your own hands. With the first method, a whole sheet of drywall is placed in the corner of the room. In this case, the sheet placed against the corner of the adjoining wall will form a husk with its edge with the adjoining edge of the first sheet. In the second method, a groove is cut out on the sheet along the center line, and it is bent at an angle of 90 °. To do this, cut the cardboard and gypsum core with a knife from the back side without damaging the front side of the sheet. And then you need to bend the sheet at an angle of 90 ° and install it in the corner of the room.

Previously, gypsum mastic is applied to the surface of the wall within the dimensions of the sheet. Mastic cakes should be 100-150 mm in diameter and 15-20 mm thick more than the thickness of the beacons.

Mastic is applied in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 350-450 mm. On the edges of the sheet, the mastic is applied in continuous stripes. After applying the mastic, the sheet is applied to the wall in accordance with the markings, and pressed with a rule, applying light blows. The mastic squeezed out from under the edges is removed with a spatula.

The installation of the drywall sheet should be carried out so that the bottom edge does not reach the floor by 10-15 mm. Before the final hardening of the mastic, the sheet must be fixed in this position - for about 30-40 minutes.

Facing surfaces with plasterboard sheets on a wooden crate

For the manufacture of wooden crates, they usually take bars 40 mm thick, which are pre-treated with antiseptics.

The frame is built in such a way that each sheet has 2 vertical bars, which should be located along its edges. If the sheet is wider than 500 mm, then another vertical bar is attached to the middle part of the crate. The width of the front surface of the bar, which accounts for the joint of two drywall sheets, must be at least 80 mm.

In places where drywall sheets adjoin the floor, ceiling, as well as in places where shelves, mirrors and other heavy objects are attached, horizontal bars are installed. Also, horizontal bars are nailed at the joints of two panels in height.

It is necessary that the front surfaces of the frame bars are in the same plane and are securely fixed, because it depends on how the lined wall will look.

Before starting the fastening of the bars, marking and drilling holes are performed on the wall. Holes are made in increments of 800-1000 mm. The main difficulty in installing a wooden frame is to obtain a flat plane.

To align the plane of the frame, the wall is divided into grips, the dimensions of which correspond to the parameters of drywall sheets. Next, two extreme beams are installed. In order for the beam to stand vertically, it is pressed against the wall and checked with a building level or plumb line. If there are irregularities on the wall that prevent the bar from standing upright, they should be knocked down or cut down.

When fixing the beam, you need to make sure that the upper and lower ends in a vertical position fit snugly against the wall. If in the middle part the bar takes a concave position, then it is necessary to make substrates between the bar and the wall of the required thickness.

For the installation of intermediate bars, a cord is pulled between the extreme ones.

Sheets can be fastened both with nails and self-tapping screws in increments of 400-600 mm. After completing the self-assembly of drywall sheets, it is necessary to putty joints and holes from self-tapping screws or nails.

Wall cladding with plasterboard sheets on a metal frame

Now, when facing with plasterboard sheets, a metal frame is mainly used. This method has many advantages. Installing such a frame is much easier and faster than a wooden one, since special metal profiles are produced for it, and it lasts longer.

On the floor and ceiling, the installation site of the guides and rack profiles is marked using a plumb line or a laser level. Rack profiles are installed in increments of 600 mm.

First, the profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowel-nails, pre-leveling with a plumb line. Next, the extreme rack profiles are installed, and their position is checked by the level. A cord is pulled between the extreme racks and the middle racks are mounted along the resulting plane. To ensure the rigidity of the frame, the racks are attached to the wall with ceiling suspensions. Metal profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

In places of horizontal joints of sheets, transverse jumpers from a rack profile are installed.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws, with a step of no more than 250 mm, retreating from the edge of the sheet 10-15 mm.

Related videos

Given these recommendations, you can independently sheathe the walls with drywall, saving a lot on the services of specialists.

"Dry" wall cladding with drywall is as ubiquitous as wallpapering. Indeed, at such a rate of execution and quality of alignment, the assembly of the supporting base cannot be without difficulties. And they are, so today we will reveal the secrets of assembling wall profile frames.

Consideration of the work of the wall frame

Before proceeding with the set of substructures for wall cladding, you should make sure that the idea of ​​​​the functions of the profile frame is complete and correct. It is assembled from PN and PS profiles of different sizes. For false walls without high operational load with one layer of sheathing, a 60 mm set is used, consisting of CD-60 and UD-27 profiles as rack and guiding elements, respectively. Such a wall is self-supporting, but nothing more: no attachments such as cabinets, shelves or a TV should be attached directly to the frame or sheets.

False walls with internal insulation, two- and three-layer sheathing with sheets and an additional bearing function are assembled on a frame from the same profile sizes that are used in the construction of plasterboard partitions. These are sets PS+PN 50 and 100 mm. We summarize: the width of the profile used determines the mass of the wall and the cladding in particular, sets the required load-bearing capacity.

Another important parameter of the wall frame is its frequency, expressed by the pitch of the rack elements. The more often they are installed, the greater the rigidity of the wall becomes and the higher its resistance to pressure and impact. For single skins, a 40 cm spacing is used due to the fact that one sheet can be pressed through relatively easily. The two-layer sheathing is denser, so the pitch of the racks can be increased up to 60 cm.

It is not entirely clear why to reduce the number of attachment points for a two-layer skin, because it has more weight than a single-layer skin, which means it needs a greater load-bearing capacity of the frame. However, the strength of profiles of the 50th size and larger (and others are not used in multilayer sheathing) is quite enough to hold up to four layers of drywall.

If you do not understand the point of covering with several layers of plasterboard, most likely you are not aware of the ratio of the characteristics of the walls. An additional layer doubles the insulation against structural and airborne noise, allows you to lay up to 50 mm of additional insulation and significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the skin itself. The combination of these factors makes multi-layer sheathing a very popular solution, which has been adopted by almost all conscientious contractors.

Installation of guide profiles

The assembly of the frame of any wall begins with the definition of its main plane. If the wall has niches, the one with the largest area is taken as the main plane. This plane is quite easily projected onto the floor and ceiling with two base lines, from which all further readings will be taken. Once these lines have been defined and marked out, they should be checked for consistency with the overall geometry of the room and corrected if necessary. For convenience, you can also make a correction for the thickness of the skin layer and the preferred finishing material, so that the markings accurately indicate the installation line of the guide profiles.

They, as the name implies, determine the direction of the rack elements. To fasten the guide profiles to concrete bases, plastic dowels for fast installation with a pitch of 35-40 mm or steel dowel-nails for direct installation are used. Fastening to wooden structures, shell rock or foam concrete is carried out with hardened self-tapping screws 50-120 mm long, depending on the density of the material. The fastening step can also be reduced to increase the rigidity of the fixation.

To compensate for structural noise, thermal expansion and shifts during the settlement of the building, a layer of damping material is laid between the guide profile and the bearing surface. Special self-adhesive tapes made of medium-density polyethylene foam can be relatively easily replaced with self-cut strips of insulation from the same material and glued to ordinary PVA.

Structural insulation from the floor is carried out in one layer, and from the ceiling - in two or three. In total, there should be approximately one layer for every meter of wall height. At the same time, the fastening of the ceiling profile is not rigid, so that the frame guide can “walk” in height in the range of 2-3 mm.

Bypass openings and corners

The plane of the frame can be disturbed by niches, window and door openings. In these places, the linear configuration of the guides changes to correctly bypass the adjunctions.

In door openings, the guide profile is raised to form a rectangular opening in the skin. Its dimensions either exactly correspond to the installation dimensions of the door block, or determine the dawn of the slopes.

Window openings can be bypassed in two ways. The opening "to the floor" is made in the same way as the door, however, it is preferable to install window sills in parallel with the assembly of the frame. This is done to break the vertical guides. Thus, the lower part of the niche is made with strictly rectangular edges, and the upper one has the necessary dawn for the installation of slopes (2-3 °).

Simple closed niches are more convenient to assemble after mounting the main plane of the frame. Usually, rack elements are simply skipped at their locations, however, if the niche continues to the floor, the guide profile on it must be broken and moved to the wall to the depth of the niche. In this case, additional external and internal corners can be formed, at which the profiles are tightly adjacent to each other with the formation of a common gap (the edges are cut at 45 °). The reason for this is as follows: it is impossible to know in advance exactly how the frame of the relief wall will be implemented, which means that the rack elements must be able to be installed in all possible positions.

Assembly of the supporting structure of the wall

Rack profiles are inserted into the cavity of the guide profiles, the length of which is 15 mm less than the distance between the internal shelves of the guide system at each specific installation location. Such a gap is necessary to more easily insert the rack into the guides at an angle and to compensate for linear deformations.

For maximum performance, it is important to follow a specific installation sequence. First, all rack profiles are installed without any fastening. Next, direct suspensions are fixed to the wall with a step recommended for the type of wall (30-60 cm), attachment points are outlined, the profile is shifted to the side and the wall is conveniently drilled with a perforator.

The racks return to their previous position according to the risks prudently marked on the guide profile. The profile is fastened with two notches or self-tapping screws in the lower part, while on top it must retain full mobility. In order for the racks to exactly match the installation step of the sheets and not to tilt, jumpers are pre-installed for joining the vertical elements of the same row. If the CD-60 kit is used in the frame, the jumpers are cut to a length of 340 mm, inserted between the posts and attached to them with halves of an ordinary crab. In this case, it is enough to install the first, basic rack vertically, the rest need only a cursory control.

If the frame is assembled with a size of 50 or 100 mm, the jumpers are made with a guide profile. Its edges are cut along the outer shelves and bent in different directions. The workpiece is inserted with one bent edge into the cavity of the rack, the other edge is superimposed on the adjacent rack. If the cladding posts are oriented with the central shelf to the cladding, which occurs in non-insulated walls, the edges of the jumpers must be bent in one direction so that the side edges are flat. The jumper is simply inserted between the shelves and fastened to them along adjacent flat surfaces.

Please note that cutting the jumpers with “tongues” is categorically not recommended: self-tapping screws are normally pressed into drywall, but the plate, especially from the central shelf of the rack profile, will certainly form a bump on the surface of the skin.

To bypass vertical corners, a number of simple rules apply:

1. External corners with a standard size of 50 mm and above are assembled from two guide profiles nested towards each other.
2. The same corners from CD-60 are formed sequentially: first one side is sheathed, then a profile is attached to the sheet outlet and the adjacent sheet is sewn on.
3. All internal corners are also assembled sequentially: first, the wall is sewn up, then the second corner insert is inserted and fastened, and the adjacent wall is sewn up.

Additional frame fastening and assembly completion

At the end of the installation, careful alignment of the plane of the rack profiles is to be done. Often, an additional rail (or a pair of such) is used for this, with which the racks are twisted together to bring them into a common plane. The rail is telescopic and consists of two guide profiles nested in each other.

After a temporary connection, the edges of the straight hangers are bent, attached to the posts and folded back, after which the additional rails are removed. Sections of the frame adjacent to niches and openings also need to be strengthened. In these places, horizontal crossbars are added at intervals of half a meter to prevent punching through areas potentially subject to destruction.

Wall decoration with drywall is the best option for leveling any surface. This applies to both completely new buildings, where finishing work with putty is excluded (for example, office buildings), and old houses, up to adobe. In the latter, it is quite simple to sheathe the walls of the GKL. The finished structure does not form a load, it is easy to mount, the amount of related materials is minimal.

Thanks to the GKL, a perfectly flat surface is achieved, which can be pasted over with wallpaper (no reaction to glue) or even painted after grouting the seams. The strength of the drywall sheet is quite sufficient to prevent “breakthroughs” from accidental physical impact, mounting paintings, computer monitors on brackets and other equipment weighing up to 15 kg and fastener sizes of 25 * 15 cm on its plane. Reducing the size of the latter leads to a proportional decrease in the weight of the object being mounted per 1 sq. m. GKL.

The above benefits are only a small part of what drywall wall construction has. But, before proceeding with self-cladding of the wall, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the information below: find out which cladding method to choose, what materials, tools are needed and, then, how to properly sheathe the walls with drywall!

What tools and materials do you need to buy?

For sheathing in a frame way, you will need to buy:

1. Plasterboard sheet (quantity and dimensions are selected individually).
2. Ceiling profiles (PP).
3. Metal guide profiles.
4. Direct suspension.
5. Profile extensions.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Dowels.
8. Connectors.
9. Construction knife.
10. Metal scissors.
11. Perforator / drill (depending on the wall material).
12. Roulette.
13. Pencil or marker.
14. Screwdriver.
15. Level (for more accurate and faster work, it is better to choose a laser level).
16. Other materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).

Sheathing with frameless method:

1. paper perforated tape for seams.
2. putty for the initial processing of seams and caps of self-tapping screws.
3. finishing coat.
4. primer against fungi.
5. dry mounting mix based on gypsum binder with polymer additives.
6. a special knife for plasterboard (clerical will not work).
7. measurement tool (tape measure, level, etc.).
8. pen-pencil.

Phased wall cladding with a frame method

Stage 1: markup

It can be performed both with a building level (manual, laser), and with a plumb line. Using the latter guarantees a more accurate result, but increases the duration of the work. First of all, you need to determine the largest irregularities that protrude into the room and transfer the corresponding points to the floor.

From the points obtained, and there can be from one to a couple of dozen, it is necessary to determine the one that is closer to the center of the room (the largest unevenness of the wall), and draw a straight line through it. The last one is the outline of the rectangle. All other transferred points must be between the rectangle line and the real wall.

Next, you need to draw a straight line parallel to the one mentioned, but already retreating 5 mm and additional space for the "U"-shaped profile (pre-measure with a ruler). It is along this line that the installation of the profile structure will be carried out. A similar one must be transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.

Stage 2: installation of "U"-shaped profile around the perimeter of the room

Before proceeding, it is necessary to cut a profile of the appropriate length. It is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. In almost 100% of cases, craftsmen use ordinary dowels and golden-colored screws for quick installation of the structure. The latter are simply hammered into the already installed dowels.

When working on surfaces such as wood and adobe, it is strongly recommended to use ordinary black screws, which must be screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Action algorithm

• on the prepared profile, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm every 40 cm;

Profiles with pre-drilled holes are commercially available. If their diameter is less than necessary, it is better to expand them with a drill. Otherwise, the dowels may be damaged and poorly fixed in the wall.

• try on the finished profile to the mounting surface, observing its placement: front side on the drawn line;

A line should be visible through the holes in the profile.

• mark the holes with a pencil or pen;

If you have certain skills in working with profile structures, this step can be omitted.

• using a puncher, make the required number of holes for the profile;

An alternative to a massive and not very convenient hammer drill can be a drill with a percussion function.

• install profiles on the floor, wall, ceiling, while using dowels and one of the mentioned types of screws / self-tapping screws.

Installation of the profile on curved walls is accompanied by its deformation (wave-like state). This can be avoided by making cuts at the top and bottom with metal scissors.

Installation of the main frame from the "C"-shaped profile

It consists of several stages and two types of "C"-shaped profile. Given the skills of working with drywall constructions, it is extremely difficult to deal with this. That is why the further algorithm of actions will be described according to this picture.

At the joints of drywall sheets, there should always be a docking profile. In this illustration, it is shown in blue. In total, there are 4 of these pieces per standard wall with a single window and door opening, subject to a sheet width of 1.2 meters (generally accepted value among manufacturers).

There must always be an intermediate profile between the connecting cross members. Its quantity depends on the initial idea. If a two-layer plasterboard wall finish is assumed, then the intermediate profile is installed at a distance of 0.6 m. In the graphic example, such a device is marked in orange.

If it is necessary to sheathe the wall in one sheet, two intermediate ones are installed between the docking ones. In the photo they are marked in blue and are at a distance of 0.4 meters.

Violet marks the intermediate profile, which must be added to the overall structure if the window sill is sewn up.

The installation of an intermediate profile (purple) above the window can be ignored, provided that the height of the remaining wall from the top of the door and window slope does not exceed 50 cm.

Action algorithm

• fasten the profiles to the wall, observing the distance between them;

On walls made of wood or clay, it is better to use dowels in combination with black long self-tapping screws.

• cut the "C"-shaped profile along the length;

It should be 0.5 - 0.8 cm shorter than the entire distance between the walls.

Provided that the length of the wall is more than 3 meters, you will also need to buy connecting brackets for profiles.

• connect CD and UD profile to each other;

This must be done ignoring the exact perpendicular position in relation to the UD profile. The CD profile connects to the mentioned one a little obliquely.

• using a building cord or level, based on the flow state of the walls, determine the gap from the wall that will remain behind the CD profile after its installation;
• fix the CD profile with the existing wall brackets.

The action can be performed both with screws and rivets.

It is better to make the frame in parts, for example, conditionally dividing the wall into two parts.

GKL installation

Produced quite simply. The drywall sheet must be placed in a vertical position and aligned with the frame. This is done with wooden wedges. It is very inconvenient to cope with the task on your own, but it is quite possible.

It is enough to fasten the adjusted sheet with two self-tapping screws, after which the wedges can be removed. Self-tapping screws must be screwed in with a measured effort. Their hat should enter the sheet by no more than 1 mm. Otherwise, cracks are possible, which will appear over time, since the thickness of the putty without a reinforcing binder on the gypsum board cannot exceed 15-20 mm.

Instead of a screwdriver, they also use a drill with a special nozzle.

If the standard sheet of finishing material is too large, then using a construction knife or a jigsaw, it can be shortened and adjusted to the appropriate dimensions. It is also worth noting that when cutting with a knife, there is practically no dust.

These tools are also suitable for making a non-straight cut. Such, for example, at an angle of 90 degrees, will require a combination of a knife and a jigsaw. The latter, for whatever reason, can be replaced with a saw for metal or wood. Short cuts are best done with a jigsaw, which guarantees filigree accuracy, and long cuts with a knife. Having made a continuous cut, it is very easy to break off the desired part.

Putty

It is carried out in several stages. The first and, perhaps, the main one is the sealing of joints. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that the putty itself does not hold well. That is why it is strongly recommended to stick a reinforcing mesh - sickle. On sale it is available in completely different gradations and sizes, both in width and length.

Do not try to putty the seams that remain between the sheet and the floor, ceiling. By laying a floor covering, for example, a laminate, it is already possible to compensate for about 2.5 cm. The remaining seam can be closed with a plastic plinth, thereby providing additional ventilation in the wall.

The result of installation on the frame

Advantages:

• structural strength;
• the ability to enhance sound insulation, as well as hide junction boxes with wires, heating and sewage pipes;
• project implementation even on the most uneven walls;
• the possibility of surface finishing with plasterboard tiles.

Disadvantages:

• the complexity of installation (we are talking about the frame);
• financial costs for related components;
• the whole structure takes up a lot of space (about 8-10 cm on each side).

Frameless sheathing

It is an alternative to the wireframe method. It has one significant drawback - wall decoration up to 3 m with irregularities up to 20 mm. Provided, if any, use only glue for mounting GKL. In its composition, it may differ slightly, especially when it comes to moisture-resistant or ordinary drywall. Since glue is the only GKL connector with the wall, you should not save on buying it.

If irregularities over 20 mm are detected, separate pieces of it, pre-treated with glue on both sides, can be used as the basis for the finishing material in question.

It is possible to glue drywall only on a carefully prepared surface: bare brick, aerated concrete, cinder block. It is strictly forbidden to perform work on the following surfaces: adobe, shell rock, whitewash. Also, before applying the adhesive to the wall, it must be cleaned of accumulated sawdust. All work is carried out at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees. As with wallpapering, drafts and windows should be avoided for a week after the work is completed.

Glue is prepared 10 minutes before application to the work surface. Ignoring the requirement will lead to its folding and a decrease in adhesive ability.

Important! Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all petrified ledges of cement mortar.

Glue is applied to the back of the sheet in the form of horizontal and vertical stripes. Immediately after this, the GKL is pressed against the wall. Provided that excess connecting material is applied, it protrusion along the edges. It is enough to remove it with a spatula and wipe the places with a dry cloth. If errors were found during installation, then until the glue dries completely, which is about 10 minutes, it is possible to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the wall.

Ultimately, it becomes quite clear that the choice of installation method depends on the current condition of the walls, as well as the amount of work on and preparation. That is why, experts strongly recommend taking measurements and, only then, purchasing materials for the proposed design. It is also worth noting that sheathing by gluing GKL on wallpaper or old wall covering is not possible, especially subsequent tiling.

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