Many flower gardens in our country are decorated with all kinds of lilies, which perfectly complement the backyard landscape and look advantageous not only in group plantings, but also planted singly. garden lilies can be propagated both by seeds and vegetatively, and in order to make a choice in favor of one or another method, you should know their technology.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs

Usually, Reproduction of lilies by bulbs occurs by self-sowing. This method is the most convenient and easiest in home gardening. It is possible to propagate in this way exclusively bulbous varieties, which are most often found in the group of Asian hybrids.

On the so-called "children" suitable for planting, leaves appear and an air root system is formed, after which the bulbs are ready to be separated from the parent plant and planted in a separate place according to the following technology:

• for landing, a special container should be prepared with high-quality drainage holes at the bottom;
• planting container must be filled with nutrient soil mixture with a low level of acidity;
• fully matured "babies" or bulbs are easily separated from the stem part, but they should be collected before they begin to crumble from an adult plant;
• it is desirable to sort the collected bulbs by size, and then plant them to a depth of 3 cm with a distance of at least 4 cm from each other.

Bulbs should be grown in pots until spring, when young plants are suitable for planting. permanent place in open ground. Lilies propagated by children enter the flowering stage approximately in the third or fourth year after planting.

How to propagate lilies with scales (video)

Reproduction of lilies by leaf

However, the method is not too complicated and shows a fairly high survival rate. planting material. The technique is optimally suited for tiger and snow-white lilies, as well as Thunberg and royal lilies. A good result is observed with such reproduction of the Maksimovich lily, as well as the sulfur-flowered and long-flowered lilies.

Technology leaf propagation next:

• at the stage of active budding, but before flowering, you should carefully cut off the leaves with the base;
• the landing tank must have high-quality drainage holes;
• at the bottom of the planting tank, a layer of drainage should be poured, and then about 5-7 cm of nutrient soil substrate and about 4 cm of coarse sand;
• lily leaves go deep into moist soil by about ½ of the total length, with a slight slope;
• landings should be provided with an optimal microclimate by covering them with polyethylene.

Further planting care consists in regular airing and ensuring sufficient soil moisture. With proper care, bulbs form quite quickly at the base of the leaves. In the spring, young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place in the ground.

Reproduction of lilies by cuttings

Propagating lilies with cuttings is quite simple:

• using a clean and sharp pruner, cut off the stem part without injuring the bulb;
• treat the cut on the green handle with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• lower the cutting for a while into the growth process stimulator;
• prepare landing boxes with drainage holes and fill them with vermiculite or clean sifted sand;
• plant prepared green lily cuttings, carry out abundant watering and cover the plantings with plastic wrap.

AT summer period it is permissible to plant cuttings directly in open ground, where plantings must also be protected with polyethylene. With proper care, after about three to four weeks, onion-babies are formed in the ground, which are recommended to be separated and planted for the purpose of growing.

Propagation of lilies with bulbs

The advantage of this method is that all varieties and types of lilies propagate with bulbs. This method is practiced in home gardening quite often, however, according to experienced flower growers-amateurs, the disadvantages of this type of reproduction include a rather low survival rate decorative culture.

As a rule, propagation by bulbs is carried out in autumn period, but if necessary, the event can be held in the spring, observing the following technology:

• when breeding lilies in the spring, you should choose plants whose height does not exceed 8-10 cm, which guarantees a higher percentage of survival of the culture;
• it is recommended to plant the bulbs immediately after digging, until the root system of the planting material has dried up;
• if it is not possible to timely landing, it is advisable to temporarily dig the planting material into moistened peat or sand.

Plants obtained from the largest bulbs are able to bloom directly in the year of transplantation, due to the presence of already planted flower buds. Instances grown from too small planting material will bloom only next year. Approximately in the third or fourth year after planting, whole "nests" of several bulbs suitable for separation and planting will form in the ground. To find out the number of bulbs formed and suitable for planting, it is enough to count the resulting stems.

Reproduction of lilies by seeds

If such lily propagation methods as dividing the nest of bulbs, using baby bulbs, planting stem bulbs, rooting scales, as well as planting stem and leaf cuttings, are very simple to perform and quite suitable even for beginner amateur flower growers, then seed propagation is sufficient. complex event and requires certain knowledge. In addition, it should be remembered that lily seeds lose their germination very quickly, Therefore, they must be sown no later than next year after the collection.

Lily seed propagation technology is as follows:

• before sowing, it is recommended to treat the seed material in a 1-2% hydrogen peroxide solution or a 0.04% zinc sulfate solution, which improves germination and minimizes the risk of bacterial infection;
• sowing of treated seeds in order to obtain the strongest seedlings should be carried out in the last decade of February or early March;
• landing tanks must be filled with a disinfected mixture of sheet soil and coarse sand;
• a good result is the use of a soil substrate from garden soil with the addition of peat, humus and coarse sand;
• sowing seeds is carried out with a depth of no more than 50 mm;
• it is advisable to cover the crops with polyethylene, which will accelerate the emergence of seedlings and make them more friendly.

After germination, they are provided with diffused lighting and temperature regime at the level of 16-20°C. Irrigation is carried out systematically to prevent the soil from drying out. After the appearance of a pair of leaves, the seedlings should be dived into separate planting containers. Transplantation to a permanent place in open ground flower beds is carried out in the last decade of May or in early June.

Lilies: breeding methods (video)

When planting young plants, it is recommended to keep a distance of 0.3-0.4 m between them. Further provision of proper care allows you to grow healthy and strong plants that are capable of years delight with lush and long flowering.

Propagation of lilies by bulbs.

It is easy and pleasant to propagate lilies with stem buds-bulbs (they are also called bulbs, or air bulbs). To understand what these bulbs are, just look at the stem, for example, tiger lilies (the so-called Royal curls) - by the end of summer it is almost completely strewn with them: lurking in the axils of the leaves. Such lilies are called bulbous and are, as a rule, the most unpretentious.

At different varieties and species of lilies, bulbs differ in size and color, in time of formation, in number - there may be only a few pieces, or maybe a lot. Their color is brown, green, green-brown, almost black.

The largest number of bulbous varieties is found among Asian hybrids. (for example, the vast majority of lily varieties bred by M. F. Kireeva) leading origin from the tiger, bulbous lily. They are also found among the Tubular hybrids (from Sargent's lily).

Bulbs are formed from species lilies: tiger lilies, lanceolate, Sargent, bulbous, sulphurous - in the axils of stem leaves, 2-3 air bulbs the size of a pea. If you remove the buds, bend down the stems and spud them with earth, then snow-white, formosan, umbrella, Thunberg, saffron and long-flowered lilies can form baby bulbs on the stems. In order to get bulbs from a white and Daurian lily, you need to cut off the buds, and after 10 days cut the stem in half. Snow-white lily can form air bulbs on the stem if it is transplanted with a clod of earth during budding.

A number of factors influence the number and size of bulbs formed: varietal features, age of the plant, abundance of flowering, meteorological conditions of the year, the level of agricultural technology. So, some varieties (Aelita, Kalinka, Pink Haze, etc.) form many large bulbs, while others (Sea foam, Autumn Song, Polyanka, etc.) form a small number of small ones.

Young plants form more bulbs than old ones. Good agricultural technology promotes an increase in size and increases the number of bulbs formed. It is noted that the quality and quantity of stem buds and bulbs increase in wet years, and some varieties of lilies (Joan Evans, Enchantment, etc.) form bulbs only in wet summer conditions.

Such an energy-intensive process as flowering reduces the quantity and quality of bulbs formed: the more flowers are formed on the stem, the less bulbs are formed. To cause the formation of stem buds-bulbs in some species and varieties that are not bulbous under normal conditions, as well as to increase the size and number of bulbs in weakly bulbous and bulbous varieties, the removal of buds (decapitation) allows. The most effective decapitation of lilies at an early stage of bud formation. The removal of buds during the period of their coloring affects the formation of bulbs to a lesser extent, and the removal of buds during the period of their blooming has practically no effect on the formation of buds and bulbs. It has been established that the removal of buds at an early stage of their formation increases the yield of bulbs by 1.5-10 times or more (depending on the variety).

As a rule, bulbs are formed towards the end of flowering, but often not yet flowering plants already form bulbs. For cut varieties of lilies, this is a big minus. After flowering, the bulbs are fully formed and are small air bulbs, sometimes (especially in warm, humid weather) roots sprout on them and even a leaflet may form. If you do not collect them on time, air bulbs crumble 2-3 weeks after the lilies bloom. On moist soil, they germinate quickly, sometimes very densely. If this happened, then for better development young plants can be sprinkled with a layer of nutrient soil, watered and weeded from weeds, and the next year the grown bulbs can be transplanted to a permanent place. Bulbous, sulfur-yellow, tiger bulbous lilies are harvested during the period when they begin to crumble, that is, after flowering.

To create good growing conditions, ripe bulbs, when they easily begin to separate from the stem, must be collected before they shed. In the Middle lane, bulbs are harvested in early August-September, separately for each class. Bulbs are immediately sown in the ground, having previously sorted them by size and prepared the soil. It is important to remember that the bulbs dry out rather quickly, shrivel, and it is better to sow them immediately after harvest. If the soil is not ready, they are placed in plastic bag, sprinkling with slightly damp moss, sand, sawdust or perlite, tightly tied and stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of plus 3 - 5 ° C. So they can be stored even until spring.

The bulbs separated from the stem “as they arrive” are planted in the ground in August or September, in grooves about 2–3 cm deep, at a distance of 3–6 cm from each other, between rows 20–25 cm. To protect against diseases, bulbs and soil in the grooves are treated with fungicides. It is useful to treat the bulbs with a solution of potassium permanganate. Wrinkled from excessively long dry storage, before planting, you need to soak in water for a couple of hours. Planted bulbs should be watered, mulched with peat chips, sawdust or leaf humus. Garden soil should be loose with a small amount of sand and rotted manure. Can add wood ash, at the rate of one glass per one square meter. For the winter, it is advisable to cover the plantings with spruce branches or fallen leaves.

It has been observed that scales and bulbils that have fallen to the ground endure frosts down to 30°C without snow cover.

In warm autumn, when watering, the baby takes root well, and seedlings of bulbs appear in the same autumn. Flowering of plants grown from bulbs occurs the next year (i.e. the second summer, the third year after sowing), but it is still weak, and it is undesirable to let the young bulbs bloom. To do this, they completely remove the buds. In autumn, the bulbs are transplanted to a permanent place or simply planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, to a depth of up to 8 cm. At this time, the bulbs are at rest and tolerate the transplant well. It can also be done in the spring. With any transplant, the roots are shortened by half. Optimum size bulbs reach at good care for the 3rd year.

Lily, one of the most beautiful ornamental plants, Liliaceae family. And due to the huge amount various kinds, shades and shapes, this queen of the garden has become a favorite of many flower growers. The only thing that upsets the true connoisseurs of the royal beauty is the annual purchase of planting material, which, by the way, is not cheap. Therefore, many experienced flower growers have adapted to the independent reproduction of these plants, which is overwhelmingly successful, and one of these methods is the reproduction of lilies with scales.

If a novice florist liked a certain specimen of a garden queen, then you should not rush to buy the same species for breeding. There are four ways to get new bushes and create the perfect lily bed. effective ways, namely:

1. breeding lilies with scales;
2. cultivation of lilies with bulbs;
3. propagation of lilies by cuttings;
4. reproduction of lilies by seed method.

All these methods of breeding lilies have their own specific features and use them in different situations. But at the same time, most importantly, regardless of the chosen breeding method, all the methods described above make it possible to increase the collection of the garden queen. And what is important, new plants will fully retain all the characteristics of the mother plant.

We propagate the lily with scales

Reproduction of lilies by scales is the simplest and most common way by which an increase in the number of plants will be successful. Moreover, this method can be used with all types of lilies. Yes and splendid blooming flower can be obtained already in the second year after breeding with scales. It is worth noting that literally from one mother bulb, it turns out from 20 to 150 new young sprouts.
As for the selection of the time for breeding lilies with scales, experienced flower growers say that division can be made at any time of the year, but autumn is still the most ideal. To do this, use purchased bulbs, or the material that was dug out before winter.

So, in order to propagate lilies with scales, it is necessary to perform several steps, namely:

• With the onset of autumn, the bulbs of the plant are dug up, washed thoroughly with warm water, and then carefully examined. Scales are separated from healthy bulbs, and all defective or affected by the disease are removed;
• The prepared scales are washed in warm water and immersed in a pre-prepared weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes;
• The soil is prepared for planting scales in it, for this they take forest moss, humus and black soil in equal parts, then, pre-dried scales are placed in this mixture;
• The container, in which the scales with soil are located, is sealed on top with a bag and sent to a dark and warm place for a month. As a rule, after this period of time, new bulbs will begin to appear;
• When young onions are found, the container is transferred to a cool place and kept for another 1.5 months.
• When the young onions undergo stratification, they begin to separate them. After this manipulation, they are first planted in a greenhouse, this time falls in February. And when May comes, the grown and strengthened roots are planted in a permanent place.
• If the method of breeding lilies in the spring is chosen, then the young are immediately evicted to the garden, bypassing the greenhouse. As for the care of the young, it is no different from adult flowers.

Reproduction of the garden queen by scales in total will take approximately two years from the moment of separation from the main plant to the production of an adult full-fledged flower.

In order for your own bulbs to be well stored in the winter, they should be thoroughly washed under water, and then dried and planted in wet sand, in which the bulb will be stored until spring.

Video "Reproduction of lilies with scales"

We propagate the garden queen with bulbs

Propagating lilies with bulbs is another great way to get new sprouts for planting. The so-called bulbous bulbs are formed in the leaves, which makes it possible to increase the number of any lily varieties.

But at the same time, the success of this method of reproduction depends on many factors, namely:

• how younger plant, the more planting material can be removed;
• the more abundant the lily blooms, the more likely it is to get the desired bulbs;
• some varieties are directly dependent on weather conditions to be more precise, the higher the humidity, the more bulbs are formed. Therefore, when buying planting material, this issue should be clarified with a consultant;
• if you resort to such a manipulation as decapitation, then you can get bulbs even from those plants that practically do not produce bulbs;
• bulbs are formed immediately after the plant has faded. And after their maturation, they begin to fall off, it is during this period that they should be collected.

Planting bulbs in the ground depends on the time of year. If it is warm outside, then the bulbs are immediately planted in the ground. Well, in the case when the cold season comes, then the reproduction of lilies in the fall is performed in a container. After planting, young bulbs need special care, they should be regularly moistened and maintained at a stable temperature.

Video "Reproduction of lilies with bubbles"

We propagate the lily by cuttings

This method of propagation by leaf (cuttings) is resorted to when there are no seeds for planting or the garden queen does not have bulbs. For such purposes, sheets are selected from the top of the shoot and cut off. Then they are planted at an angle in pre-prepared containers half-filled with a mixture of soil and sand.
Further care of the cuttings requires regular moistening of the soil and storage of planting material away from direct sunlight.

This method is successful as an alternative to flake breeding. Since this method does not require additional financial costs, and much effort will not be required.

Growing lilies from seeds

Often, novice flower growers are interested in the question of how to get beautiful plant lily from seeds growing in this way. First of all, propagation by this method is suitable for fast-growing varieties. It is these types of garden queens that are able to produce a large amount of seed material.

lily seeds

Planting seeds at home begins at the end of February. For such purposes, you must first prepare a tray with nutrient soil and plant lily seeds in it to a depth of 1 cm. after the seed is planted, the tray is sent to the windowsill, preferably from the southwest side.

In order to get seedlings, you need to create good conditions, namely:

• in order for the sprouts to germinate, you need to constantly maintain room temperature;
  sown seed material requires the creation of greenhouse conditions, so the tray with seedlings is covered with a film;
• as soon as the first shoots become visible, the room temperature is lowered to 13 degrees and kept until the first leaf appears. Then you should increase the room temperature to 20ºС heat;
• seedlings that have one or two leaves should be dived into a separate container with a depth of 10 cm;
• in order for the seedlings to develop well, it should be watered with a spray gun, otherwise young shoots will die from excess moisture;
• with the onset of the end of April, the seedlings begin to harden, taking it out into the air for an hour, and then gradually increase the residence time of the sprouts.

When the time comes for planting the young in open ground, each sprout is carefully examined and if weak flowers are detected, they are left to grow in the greenhouse until next spring. And those that are stronger go to the flower garden for planting at the end of May, to please the grower.

Lilies do not tolerate the direct rays of the sun, therefore, when choosing a site for the garden queen, they try to choose exactly the place where there will be a shadow for the lady.

It is difficult to find an amateur gardener who would not grow a beautiful lily on his plot. But if a gardener is a beginner, then he often has a question about how to save lily bulbs before planting. In this case, recommendations from experienced flower growers are as follows.

• Before winter, the bulbs should be dug up and washed thoroughly in warm water. Then let it be lowered into a weak solution of potassium permanganate and hold for about an hour. When all the necessary manipulations are completed, each bulb is dried in the shade, and sent to prepared boxes with wet sand, which are then lowered into the cellar for wintering.
• The second, important issue is lily care and reproduction. As for the methods of reproduction, they were all given above, but for care, experienced gardeners give the following recommendations.

Lily, despite its royal appearance, is not really whimsical, the main thing for her is moderate watering and protection from direct sunlight. Under such conditions, the flower will grow well and delight the grower. lush bloom. As for top dressing, it should be applied twice a season, in the spring when planting, and before flowering. For these purposes, humus is used or an appropriate agent is purchased in flower shops.

Lily, this is an incredibly beautiful plant, which also does not require special care. Such a flower is absolutely not whimsical to living conditions, but at the same time it is able to please the eye of every lover of garden flowers. Therefore, if a person has a desire to increase the number of the garden queen, especially since out of the many ways of breeding lilies, you will definitely find your own, go for it and you will succeed.

The need for transplanting lilies depends on the variety, the "age" of the plant and the period of its flowering. But for all the rich species diversity these flowers are general recommendations to care for and keep them healthy.

The genus Lily unites more than 110 species perennials distributed mainly in Europe and Asia. In our gardens, the lily is loved for the variety of colors and shape of the flower. As a rule, lilies develop well on light soil, with a small admixture of sand. In one place, they grow up to 5 years, and then the bulbs grow into colonies, become smaller, and the plants bloom worse. That is why lilies need regular division and transplantation.

Five years after planting, lily flowers turn pale and droop.

When to transplant lilies

Most optimal time for planting and transplanting lilies in the garden middle lane– August-September, in southern regions until mid-October. In any case, you need to "disturb" the lilies after flowering (which is why September is considered the ideal month for transplanting).

Immediately after flowering, the lily should be cut off the flowers so that the plants do not spend nutrients for seed formation

Is it possible to transplant lilies in summer (in July)

In July, only some varieties with a special vegetative cycle can be transplanted. Basically, these are Candidias, which have a dormant period in July-August, so it is better to transplant them in these months. Asian hybrids calmly tolerate a transplant at any time of the year. The main thing at summer transplant- do not damage the roots.

If the lilies have faded early, they can be transplanted in the summer

Is it possible to transplant lilies during flowering

In most cases, this is a risky event that harms the plant. It is believed that during flowering you can only transplant Asian lilies, which bloom early and are generally considered one of the hardiest. In particular, varieties can be transplanted during flowering. Aelita, Yeti, Lady Jane, Iowa Rose,Montreux, Pearl Jennifer, Pearl Justin, Red Velvet, pink haze, Sweet Surrender, White Twinkle.

How often should lilies be repotted?

For the full development of lilies, they need to be dug up and transplanted every 3-4 years. Asiatic varieties and tubular lilies (varieties In memory of Zalivsky,Lorina, Pink Perfection, Snow Queen etc.) you need to change your "place of residence" every year.

You can also plant lilies near the southern walls

Lilies should be transplanted to a new one, sunny place without standing water. In partial shade, they will also grow, but with paler flowers.

Reproduction of lilies by division and children

Lilies can be propagated in several ways. The simplest and most popular is dividing bulb nests. This method is based on the natural development of lilies, in which the adult "mother" bulb annually forms daughter bulbs with new roots and stems. They are used to grow new plants.

The bulbous nest begins to be divided 3-4 years after planting, when at least 4-6 bulbs have formed on it. Optimal time for work comes a month after flowering. If you start dividing earlier, when the bulbs are weakened, lost weight and wilted, the plants may not take root.

How to properly propagate bulbs division:

• Carefully dig out the adult bush without damaging the bulbs and perennial roots. If you seriously damage root system, on the next year transplanted lilies may not bloom;

• lay the bulbous nest on the ground and separate the child bulbs and small children. You should have 2-3 fused large bulbs, from which the stems stretch upward. There should be as many bulbs as there are stems;

• trim the stems of the lilies, leaving small stumps. Peel the roots from the ground and carefully divide the nest into individual bulbs. This can be done by hand, without special tools;

• inspect each lily for signs of damage, rot, disease, and dark areas. In healthy bulbs, the scales are white with a pinkish tint, without any spots;

This is what damaged lily bulbs look like

• using a secateurs, remove dead and rotten roots, and cut healthy ones to 15-20 cm;

• sort the planting material and select bulbs of approximately the same size. Place the bulbs intended for planting in a dark place and cover with a damp cloth, which should be regularly moistened with water;
• do not rush to throw away bulbs rejected for a "clean" planting. Try pickling them in a 0.2-0.4% solution of Maxim for several hours, then dry and plant separately from the rest;

• plant bulbs on a favorable day, focusing on the lunar calendar.

Reproduction of lilies by children

When digging up lilies, you can find small bulbs 1 cm in diameter that form at the base of the stems. During the season, up to 10 such children are formed in the underground part. Over time, if they are not removed, they grow and form a bulbous nest with a "mother" bulb.

There are two ways to separate the babies from the mother bulb:

• when digging and dividing nests in September;
• raking the earth from the base of the roots and sieving it.

Children are planted in shkolki - pre-prepared beds with fertile soil protected from wind, rain and snow. Plant them at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other to a depth of 4-5 cm.

The children planted in September by the next season will give stems up to 25 cm high, but they will not be able to bloom. After the second wintering, 1-2 buds may appear on the plant, they should be removed so that the plant gets stronger. In full force, the lily blooms only in the third year.

Reproduction by children can be carried out in April-May. Until spring, they should be stored in a cellar or refrigerator.

If you are interested this way reproduction of lilies, then know that the formation of children can be stimulated. To do this, separate the flowering stems and bury them in sand or light soil, leaving only the top on the surface. Remove leaves and buds. By autumn, onion-babies will appear in the axils of the leaves of the buried stem.

Reproduction of lilies with scales

This method allows you to get the largest number planting material. Up to 20 scales are obtained from one bulb, and up to 2-5 bulbs are formed on each of them for reproduction.

Planting material can be prepared all year round, but it is best to do this in early May.

There are two ways of reproduction of lilies with scales.

The first way is with digging up the bulbs. Rinse the bulbs removed from the ground and carefully separate the scales from the base. If you want to save the bulb itself for further reproduction, then leave at least half of the scales on the bottom. For breeding, select only the healthiest and cleanest scales:

• rinse them thoroughly with water;
• immerse for 20 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate;
• treat with a growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin);
• place the scales of the bulbs in a bag with wet sawdust or moss and tie it;
• hide the bag in a warm and dark place;
• after 6-8 weeks, small bulbs form at the base of the scales, which must be separated and planted in open ground or boxes.

The second way is without digging the bulbs. When using this method, carefully rake the soil away from the plant without touching the roots. Then carefully separate the scales from the base of the bulbs. For disinfection, rinse the material for 20 minutes in a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution and treat with a growth regulator. Then roll the scales in crushed charcoal and place in a clean plastic bag with a mixture of calcined sand and peat. Tie up an air-filled bag and place in a dark place at room temperature. After 6-8 weeks, bulbs with roots appear on the scales, which are planted in a school for growing.

Reproduction of lilies by cuttings

This is a rather original and non-standard way, proving that lilies can be propagated using any of their parts. In particular, leaves with parts of the stem, segments of the stem with a dormant bud, and just individual leaves are selected. General principle breeding looks like this:

• cuttings for planting are taken after flowering. However, for better rooting, you can take cuttings and leaves during the budding period;
• the upper part of the massive stem is divided into equal parts with 5-7 leaves;
• on each division, all lower leaves are removed, leaving only 2-3 upper leaves;
• prepared leaves and cuttings are kept in any growth stimulant for 8-12 hours;
• planting material is planted in a fertile substrate with good drainage;
• cuttings and leaves are deepened by half their length, setting at a slight angle (45-60 degrees);
• then the cuttings are watered and covered with plastic wrap or glass jars;
• plantings are ventilated daily, removing shelter for 30-40 minutes. Each time they turn the bag inside out or change it to a new one. The jar is wiped dry daily;
• after 1-2 months, baby bulbs will appear on the areas of leaves and stems located in the ground, which give roots and let out leaves. They can be separated and transplanted into separate growing containers;
• in spring, young onions appear on the stems and leaves, which can be planted in open ground.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs

Lilies can also be propagated by "semi-bulbs" - the so-called bulbs. This is the safest way for the plant to grow. Bulbs are formed in the axils of the leaves and on the stem during flowering. Sometimes their number can reach several dozen, but they form only on lilies of certain varieties (they are also called "bulb-bearing"), such as Aelita, Kalinka, pink haze. Determining that the bulb is ready for transplanting is quite simple - it is easily separated from the stem, and small roots and leaves are already visible on it.

It is necessary to collect bulbs almost immediately after flowering, because then they fall off, germinate and begin to clog the flower garden. This usually happens in August-September, so they can be planted almost immediately. If you want to plant the bulbils in the spring, then hide them in the refrigerator, sprinkled with dry sand or sawdust, and store at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.

Before autumn planting Lily bulbs are also preferably subjected to stratification in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of 3-4°C.

Sprouted bulbs can be sown immediately in open ground or in containers to a depth of 2-3 cm, keeping a distance of 4-5 cm between them. Planted bulbs must be watered, mulched with peat chips or leaf humus. A high-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber, biohumus and washed coarse sand. To do this, mix 2 parts of biohumus with 4 parts of coconut fiber and 1 part of sand.

For the winter, it is advisable to cover the bulbs with spruce branches or straw. Although there are cases when they endured frosts down to -30 ° C without any shelter, it is better to play it safe.

Shoots of lilies appear next spring. Young plants are still very vulnerable, and they need to be regularly watered, weeded and fed (for example, with ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of 2 tbsp per 1 sq.m of area).

Flowering occurs the next year, but it is better to remove the buds - let the one-year-old plants get stronger. But in the third year, the flowers will bloom in full force and delight the eye with bright colors.

What stimulates bulb growth:

• most often, bulbs appear on young lilies;
• compliance with agricultural practices and proper care contribute to the formation of air bulbs;
• wet summer favors the growth of bulbs;
• removal of buds (decapitation) provokes the growth of buds in the axils of the stem and leaves;

Reproduction of lilies by seeds

This method can be considered only as an experimental one. Flowering in this case occurs only for 5-7 years, while the plants may not survive, and they inherit varietal characteristics only to a small extent. The general landing algorithm looks like this:

• sow seeds in containers with drainage in February-March. Prepare the substrate from a mixture of leaf and sod land, humus and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 0.5;
• use a 3-5 cm layer of expanded clay or gravel as drainage;
• after 15-20 days, the first shoots appear;
• in the phase of one true leaf, pick the seedlings into large containers according to the 5 × 5 cm scheme;
• until winter, keep the pots in a warm place with room temperature, periodically watering and loosening the ground;
• for the winter, put the box in a cellar with a temperature of 4-6 ° C, and in the spring transplant the seedlings to a permanent place.

Planting lilies in open ground (rules and planting scheme)

Before planting seedlings in open ground, meticulously choose a place for their cultivation. It should be sunny (in the worst case, located in partial shade) and protected from the wind. Dig up the soil and remove the remnants of the roots of other plants. If necessary, get rid of weeds and too tall, but already withered and old plants. Otherwise, they will create a shadow that will prevent the lilies from growing.

Algorithm for planting lilies in open ground:

• before planting, dip each bulb in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol for 20 minutes, and then in a growth stimulator for 45-60 minutes;
• remove dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm;
• for each plant, dig a hole, the depth of which is equal to three times the diameter of the bulb;
• planting interval also depends on the variety and amount of planting material. Between the lilies undersized varieties leave a margin of 15-20 cm, and between tall ones - 25-30 cm.

But what happens to bulbs planted shallowly is that stem roots appear on them.

You can plant lilies according to one of three schemes:

• single line (tape)- maintain a distance between lilies of 5-15 cm in one row and 50 cm between the "lines";
• two-line (for medium-sized lilies)- leave 15-25 cm between the bulbs, 25 cm between the lines, and 70 cm between adjacent ribbons (consisting of two lines);
• three-line (for undersized lilies)- between bulbs 10-15 cm, between lines - 25 cm, between ribbons - 70 cm each.

What to plant next to lilies

The following plants are best combined with lilies:

azalea;
aster;
beetroot;
geykhera;
carnation;
geranium;
dahlias;
bell;
kosmeya;
Snapdragon;
poppies;
narcissus;
marigold;
snowdrops;
primrose;
roses;
nigella (nigella);
violet;
fuchsia;
zinnia.

The selected plant-neighbor in any case should belong to low- or medium-sized varieties.

The best varieties of lilies

A huge number of varieties of lilies are known and it is not easy to determine the best of them in all respects. We highlight only some of the most popular and well-known varieties.

Anastasia(Anastasia) - hybrid variety of lilies with pale pink petals and twisted, wavy edges. In cold weather, the flowers become even brighter. Plant height - 90-120 cm.

Black beauty (Black Beauty)- the flowers of these unusual lilies seem to always droop. More than a dozen flowers bloom on each inflorescence. It is enough to cut just one branch to get a luxurious bouquet. The variety is hybrid, winter-hardy, the stems grow up to 190 cm.

Citronella(citronella)- a bright yellow beauty from the group of tiger lilies will decorate any garden. The petals are strewn with cherry specks. blooms Citronella, unfortunately, not for long, but exudes a pleasant aroma and is very resistant to various adverse conditions.

Excelsior(Excelsior)- oriental hybrid with massive flowers with a diameter of 20 cm, which have a very strong spicy aroma. Suitable for planting in shady places and requires shelter only in the first wintering.

golden stone(Golden stone)- when choosing this variety, remember that the plant is practically odorless. The flowers are lemon yellow with a dense cherry speck. The stem rises to a height of 110 cm.

Scheherazade(Scheherazade)-this flower seems to have come down to us from the Persian carpet from the fairy tales "A Thousand and One Nights". Variegated flowers of amazing color appear on the stems in the second half of summer. The height of hybrid plants reaches 120-180 cm.

Sophie(Sophie)- wine-red with a yellow border, the flowers of this variety are directed strictly upwards. They have a very strong aroma, grow to almost 180 cm. Lily is resistant to fungal diseases and cold.

Top Gun(Top Gun)- such a warlike name is thin and fragrant flower with light purple rose petals and elegant speckling. It is suitable for both single and group plantings.

Two Some (Tu Sam)- rich dark orange flowers with maroon spots amaze with their brightness. They will successfully fit into the design of any garden, however, they do not smell at all.

white pixels (White Pixels)- beauty, grace and perfection are perfectly combined in one plant. This lily blooms for a very long time, it is unpretentious and frost-resistant. The height of the stem reaches 110 cm.

Thanks to a timely transplant, you can keep lilies healthy and attractive for a long time. A signal that the plant should be rejuvenated should be a reduction in the number of peduncles and a decrease in the size of the flowers. Do not delay with division and transplantation, and then you will not have problems with lilies.

contemplative

There are varieties of lilies in which, during flowering, more than a dozen buds are formed in the axils of the leaf in the form of air bulbs, called bulbs. With these bulbs you can propagate flowers. This breeding method is simple and non-traumatic for plants. These air bulbs ripen after flowering has ended. True, not all types of lilies are able to form such bulbs. These include Asian look, tubular lilies. A large number of bulbs are formed in flowers of the variety Kalinka, Aelita, Pink Haze, Tiger species.

What indicates the readiness of the bulbs?

Mature buds are easily separated from the stem of the mother plant.

It is possible that air bulbs have roots, and sometimes even leaves.

With these signs, the bulbs must be collected, otherwise they will crumble and clog the garden bed. Collection of buds is carried out in August-September. After collecting the air bulbs, they are either stored for planting in the spring or planted in the fall. For spring planting Bulbs are stored in the refrigerator in sand or sawdust.

Propagation of lilies with bulbs in autumn

Planting bulbs

Experienced flower growers are advised to prepare a landing site in advance, preferably in the shade. It is necessary to dig up the earth, make complex fertilizer or add 30-34 g per square meter ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium salt and superphosphate. The collected air bulbs must be treated in a solution of potassium permanganate or fundozol for 1.5-2 hours.

Ripe buds are planted separately for each variety in rows with a step of 20 cm and at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other to a depth of up to three cm. The bed must be watered after planting. Although the bulbs tolerate frosts well, in case of a little snowy winter, it must be covered with spruce branches, fallen leaves or sawdust.

You can plant air bulbs in a pot or box filled with garden soil, at a distance of 5-8 cm. For the winter, the box should be removed to a dark place where the temperature should not fall below zero degrees.

Bulb care

Shoots will appear in the spring. Garden care comes down to loosening, weeding, fertilizing. Plants grown from bulbs will begin to bloom in a year. However, to get a larger bulb, it is better to remove the buds. Therefore, in the third year it will already be a full-fledged bulb that can be planted on, and it will bloom well.

Ways to stimulate the formation of bulbs

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs is very effective. What determines the formation of high-quality air bulbs and their number?

1. As we have already found out from the lily variety.
2. The age of the plant is also important. The younger flowering plant, the more it forms buds on the stem.
3. From the quality of flowering. Abundant flowering requires a lot of energy from the plant and therefore much less buds are formed on the stem.
4. Climatic conditions also affect the amount of air buds. It is noticed that with prolonged wet weather, more bulbs appear on plants. Wet summer encourages budding in varieties that don't produce buds in other seasons (Inchantment, Joan Evans).
5. There is a way to obtain bulbs in varieties that do not form them. To do this, you need to remove the buds at the very beginning of their formation. This method is called decapitation. It allows you to increase the number of air bulbs from 1.5 to 10 times. It has been established that when a later already colored bud is removed, the increase in buds on the stem does not cause.

You can try to artificially provoke the appearance of bulbs on the plant:

• to do this, remove all the buds and spud the stems of the plant;
• cut the bush at the very base and put it in water for 40-55 days;
• bend the stem to the surface of the earth and cover it with earth.

By doing any of the above methods, you will see how kidneys will appear in the sinuses over time. Suitable for this method the following varieties lilies: umbrella, long-flowered, saffron, Taiwanese.
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