Wooden gate decoration elements. Forged gates with their own hands

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Is it difficult to make antique wood gates? What types of wood are preferred for their creation? What retro style attributes can be used and how to give the surface of the tree the look of an old product?

Let's figure it out.

Choice of lumber

Types and scope

First, let's decide what materials we will have to purchase.

• A wide (15 - 20 centimeters) board 25 - 30 mm thick will be used to sheathe the frame of the future gate.
• A beam measuring 100x50 mm will become the basis of this frame.
• For pillars (if, of course, they are needed), we use a bar with a section of 100x100.

To clarify: for the construction of pillars, you can, of course, use a round or shaped steel pipe. However, our goal is to make future gates not only durable, but also stylish; wooden supports in this sense are more appropriate.

To calculate the volume of lumber, willy-nilly, you will have to sketch out a sketch indicating the dimensions that are relevant to you.

Some values, however, are universal:

• The optimal width of double-leaf gates is 3.5 - 4 meters. A sash width of more than 2 meters will mean an excessive load on the poles and canopies, as well as a large windage in the wind; a significant reduction in size will not allow the car to enter the yard at an angle other than a straight one, which is not always convenient.
• A reasonable maximum gate height is 2 meters. It will hide your yard from indiscreet looks from the street and, again, will not make the sashes excessively heavy.
• The poles on which the sashes are hung must be four meters high. One and a half meters will go into the ground; an elevation of half a meter above the doors will allow in the future to build a canopy resting on the pillars above the gate, protecting them from rain.

Wood species

Traditionally, pine is used for the construction of wooden structures: along with spruce, it is one of the cheapest species and, unlike Christmas trees, is not replete with knots.

In our case, however, it will not be the best option:

1. Lightweight pine wood does not differ in mechanical strength. Gates should not only perform decorative functions, but also prevent intruders from entering the yard.
2. Pine is not very rot resistant. Meanwhile, she will have to constantly resist the weather and contact with moisture.

Even more winning solutions are oak and ash. The solid cost of both breeds (about 40,000 rubles per cubic meter) is compensated by the highest strength, excellent texture pattern and almost unlimited service life.

Not a single tree

Along with solid wood gates, gates made of metal can represent a magnificent antique style - only the filling of the leaves is made of wood. Above, we did not advise using steel pipes with a wooden structure due to the fact that they will break out of the retro style; however, metal poles and other structural elements decorated with artistic forging will fully comply with it.

Wood and metal are connected with bolts with semi-secret uncut heads: the frame is drilled, after which the boards are attracted to it by two to four fasteners. The nut, as you might guess, remains on the inside of the gate.

For greater compliance with the chosen style, forged overhead canopies, latches and door handles are used.

There was a slight embarrassment with the pillars. Since for them I needed only one 6-meter beam (pillar height = 2 m) 150x150 mm, I did not order it at the local sawmill in advance, but simply arrived there with the thought that there would definitely be one. I turned to the men, asked if there was? They say, eat, choose - and pointed me to the far corner of the warehouse, where there were 5-6 pieces of timber of the size I needed. I go up, look, and he is all eaten up, like Swiss cheese. One, the other, the third - all full of holes!

Well, there is nothing to do, I chose one that is at least without rot, with healthy hardwood, albeit full of holes. So what to do? There is no other way, to wait a few days until they cut out 1 piece for me personally - there is no time. I took it in general. As it turned out later, it was a pile of marriage. But nothing, he brought it, cut it, processed it, mounted it - it stands and will stand, it will not go anywhere.

The beam was inserted into a square formed by the corners, so that it was at least 10 cm to the concrete surface. It was set vertically and drilled through two holes in each. I inserted a galvanized M10 stud into the holes, screwed nuts on both sides through washers and tightened them. I cut off the excess length of the studs with a grinder after fixing.

The beam entered in all cases with a good tightness; to set it down to the desired height, it was necessary to swing it by the top. Sit tight. After tightening the nuts, I made sure that the fixation turned out to be what was needed - you try to sway the top, it stands like a monolith, it does not move. I draw your attention to the fact that the column is held not by the compression force, but by the friction force, which is proportional to the compression force. And it's much more reliable.

The advantage of this design is also that as the wood dries out, it is enough to tighten the nuts with two keys. This is done in a minute on all three pillars.

The pillars are installed and fixed, the verticals are observed. What's next? Next, we begin to make hinged fittings for the valves. It consists of the following metal parts:
- corner 50x5 with welded lower halves of loops - 3 pcs. For gates, cylindrical hinges with a diameter of 32 mm, with a ball - 4 pcs. For the gate, drop-shaped hinges with a diameter of 20 mm with a support ball bearing.
- corner 50x5 with the upper halves of the loops - 3 pcs.
- strip 50x5 for the reverse side of the pillar farthest from the gate - 1 pc. On the middle post, the function of the strip is performed by the corner on which the gate hangs.
The length of the strip and corners is a meter with a little.

The construction is the following. The corner with the lower half-loops is fixed on the pole with the same M10 studs, the pole is drilled through, on the reverse side there is a metal strip to increase the support area. A second corner with upper half-loops is hung on it, to which, in turn, a vertical root beam of the sash frame, made of a board 150x50 mm, is screwed with screws. Further on the photo will be clear.

Before welding the hinges to the carrier corner, I welded smaller pieces of the corner on them - for precise orientation. I am inexperienced in welding, I learned to weld for the first time on cemented supports for the same gates. Cooked with an inverter, MP-3 electrodes 2.5 and 3 mm thick. In principle, nothing complicated - accessible to everyone.

It turned out to be very hemorrhoids to figure out how the corners should be located relative to each other in order to open the flaps inward or outward or in both directions at once. And what should be the distance from the corner shelf to the hinge axis. The brain boiled thirty times. Thinking this way and that, I spent a lot of time until I decided.

Nevertheless, the task was solved, the hinges were welded as it should be, the wings will open outward so as not to take up space in the yard. Having drilled the necessary holes, I primed the load-bearing corners with a conventional metal primer and painted with the same usual domestic enamel.

Wooden gates can be quite attractive, but only if you take into account all the necessary nuances when installing them. Knowing the technology of their creation helps a lot to save money and get the result you need.

There will be no need to explain to designers and developers what exactly is required of them, to carefully select the delivery package, and so on.

Peculiarities

You can make gates out of wood either sliding or swinging; no one makes them lifting and lifting-turning, because this excessive complication of the design is not always realizable.

The type of wood laying allows you to make the fence either solid or discontinuous, divided into blocks.

Advantages and disadvantages

The obvious positive aspects of wood are:

• Availability. Finding the right material in any quantity is easy;
• Relatively affordable prices. Much less than the metal fee for a similar design;
• Ease of handling and installation. Almost anyone can make wooden gates, and their installation is much easier than installing steel ones;
• No need for welding equipment;
• Sufficiently long service life and the reliability of the structure being created (if everything is done correctly and the care is in accordance with the norm);
• Ease of repair. Replacing a board is much easier than correcting defects in a metal sheet or profile.

The disadvantages of wood are also quite obvious: this is both a relatively lower strength and susceptibility to fire (special processing only lowers it, in addition increasing the cost of the entire structure). It will be necessary to treat wooden products with means that stop the process of decay.

Kinds

It is not at all necessary to create simple wooden structures; a very competent step is to use beautiful gates. The main difference is always in how the parts are connected to each other. The traditional solution is a hinged product, which is made simpler than other types and serves flawlessly for a long time.

You can select such groups of gates from a tree as:

• "Chess";
• Made from picket fence;
• Deaf closed fences.

Sheathing is done both on a metal frame and on a wooden one. In urban conditions and with an acute shortage of space, retractable structures are in demand much more than classic swing systems. The only problem is that they are created much harder and require the mandatory involvement of professionals.

Please also note that the bearing mechanism with automatic rollers is expensive and capricious; if handled carelessly, it easily fails. It is possible to mount carved elements on any type of wooden gate both from above, and from below, and on the frontal plane.

materials

Wooden gates will show all their advantages only with careful selection of the right material. In many cases, steel frames simply sheathed with wood are used - this is a relatively heavy option, but it is stronger and safer than solid wood construction.

Expensive valuable wood species are used only occasionally, in most cases limited to simple pine details. After all, they are quite beautiful, allow you to create a pleasant appearance and at the same time are very resistant to destructive influences. Budget projects provide for the creation of gates mainly from a picket fence.

Dimensions

Standard gate sizes are 300-400 cm wide. Keep in mind that your needs may be far more important than this generally accepted standard.

When the site is built up, it is desirable to make a wider passage so that trucks and special equipment can easily drive in and out. Be sure to leave a gap from the bottom edge to the ground, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the gate when snow melts, an ice crust forms or after heavy rain.

Style and design

The antique gates look elegant and romantic, and this is exactly the case when pine details are unsuitable. A relatively economical solution to the problem is the use of larch, and the density makes it possible to prevent the action of many negative factors.

Alternatively, you can use iron gates with forging elements that mimic the look of natural wood. It would be even better to fill the sashes with wooden parts. To connect such dissimilar materials will help bolts equipped with a semi-countersunk head without edges. The frame needs to be drilled, then the boards are pulled up to it by 2 or 4 fasteners. The nut is always left on the inside of the structure.

How to do it yourself?

Anyone can make wooden gates and gates, even people who do not have much experience in such matters. But success cannot be achieved if you do not prepare a good set of tools and materials. It always includes:

• Pencils, rasps;
• Squares, screwdrivers, levels, self-tapping screws;
• Planers, plumb lines, crowbars;
• Tanks for the preparation of concrete mortar;
• Bars made of wood;
• Metal constipation;
• canopy;
• hinges;
• A set of rails or a picket fence for the outer skin of frames.

Before buying lumber, you should find out the required size (height) of the structure, the size of the gate. We must not forget that it will be necessary to deepen the support pillars by 1 m into the ground otherwise stability cannot be guaranteed.

Before installation, each wooden pole is completely impregnated with antiseptic agents, and the underground parts are additionally treated with resins or bituminous mastics.

The territory must be prepared: stones are removed, clods of earth are broken and leveled. It is advisable to mark the support points and mounting directions with the help of stakes, cords. It is almost impossible to do all the work alone, so assistants are always invited. You can hang the sashes only after the concrete has completely dried.

The poles are set up like this:

• A drill makes a hole 100 cm deep;
• They look so that the planes of the pillars turned towards each other are slightly further apart than the width of a standard gate;
• In this case, the distance should not exceed 1.2 m;
• The hole is sprinkled with sand for 0.05 m and thoroughly spilled with water so that its shrinkage is completed as soon as possible;
• Add 50 mm of crushed stone;
• The underground shares of the pillars are fired with gas burners or blowtorches;
• Guided by measurements, with the help of a plumb line they put the pillar itself, fall asleep with rubble and ram;
• From above, the stone cushion is covered with cement mortar.

The frame for the sashes is formed using a jigsaw, with which pieces of timber of the desired length are easily cut. The ends of these pieces are drilled and wooden nails are driven into the holes.

To fasten the jumpers, they take galvanized self-tapping screws, put them horizontally or diagonally. Be sure to sheathe the frame with slats, otherwise the gate will easily sag and quickly deform. Burrs and other imperfections of wood are easily removed when using planers with a well-sharpened working part.

Solid gates are formed by laying boards with nailed rails on the frame and drawing cut lines. If the top is rounded, it is most convenient to mark it with a compass. Lattice structures are more complicated, here each rail will have to be marked and cut off separately. The connection of structural parts will be simplified if you use wood screws.

When setting up a gate, always make sure that it locks securely and does not swing open by itself. Only by eliminating such a problem, it is possible to install valves and a lock.

Prefabricated stainless steel constructions are the best option for fittings., anodized metal is slightly worse. Attaching the gate to brick pillars is possible if a couple of hinges are left outside at the time of their construction. The connection of the overhead parts of the hinges with the horizontal crossbars of the gates or gates is preferably done with bolts.

Wooden gates or wickets can even be hung on metal or concrete poles. This is done with the help of suspension units, which includes a hook, nuts and a clamp (a couple of units are enough). In order to be able to put a lock, a loop is made near the valve in such a way that the shackle will also go on the handle. For painting wooden gates, it is recommended to use polyurethane-based yacht varnish as the most durable and reliable. But it should also be applied in at least two layers.

Gates are not only an integral part of protection, but also a decorative element of the site. Significantly reduce the cost of work can independently manufacture structural elements and directly installation. Various materials are used for production, new processing methods, ways of functioning appear. Wooden gates are suitable for a cottage, a summer residence, a house, a garage. If you decide to make the gate yourself, below is information on how to prepare and protect the wood, how to calculate the consumption of materials, draw up a work plan, install and sheathe the structure.

Advantages and disadvantages

Until recently, wood was the most common and affordable material. Wood is easy to process, has a low cost. Basic skills in using tools were enough to make wooden structures - fences, gates, gates. Raw wood fencing is rare these days. Usually, they are used as temporary limiters of the site during the improvement of the site, the construction of a house.

Wood is a versatile material that is used for retractable, swing, lift-and-turn structures. The gate is the first thing guests notice. Therefore, they have become an indicator of the status, impeccable taste of the owner. Garage doors made of wood are usually made of a lift-and-turn type. The only limitation in the use of the material concerns the lamellas in roll mechanisms. The wooden canvas has a low strength in this case. Often a metal frame is sheathed with wood. Wooden sliding gates in this way of sheathing the base increase the thickness of the leaves and the total weight.

Wood as a material for gates has the following advantages:

• ease of processing;
• speed of installation;
• affordable cost;
• beautiful texture;
• reliability.

Buying wooden blanks will cost less than metal ones. Various types of wood and sizes of boards are presented in hardware stores to buyers with any material possibilities. In addition, in the Russian Federation you can get from 50 cubic meters of wood for free, depending on the region, you can learn more about this from the video:

Woodworking tools are available and do not require special skills. While for processing metal parts you will need a welding machine, an angle grinder. Properly treated, quality wood will last for decades, even in harsh weather conditions. When broken, a wooden canvas can be easily repaired by replacing the board. The easiest to manufacture and self-install are swing wooden gates.

There are also disadvantages to using wooden gates:

• low mechanical strength;
• with poor processing - a short service life;
• high flammability.

For gates, usually not valuable species of expensive wood are used, but larch and pine resistant to moisture and decay. The internal frame made of metal will increase the strength and durability of the structure.

Preparatory work

Before starting the processing of the material, it is necessary to draw up a schematic structure of the structure, taking into account the location of the elements. Preparing a diagram and accurately measuring the opening is important in calculating the expected material consumption and will save time during installation. It is possible to make wooden gates and gates on your own. You will need basic knowledge in woodworking, skills in working with carpentry and joinery tools, and patience.

After measuring the gate opening, you need to draw up a drawing of the future structure, observing the proportions of the height, length of the leaves, the distance between the supports, the location of the gate. It is taken into account in the scheme of the place of attachment of constipation, canopies, decorative elements. Door leaf boards are suitable for sizes 100 by 25 mm, frame - 80 by 60 mm. The blanks will decrease in size as a result of processing by 5-10 mm. In the calculations, it is necessary to take into account technological gaps from 10 mm, possible deformation, expansion of the material. When purchasing boards, you need to clarify their purpose, the degree of drying. For the production of gates with your own hands, a carpentry edged board is best suited. Such lumber is less prone to deformation and delamination. It is enough to dry fresh boards for one year in a well-ventilated area.

Preparatory work should include the manufacture of special supports from logs or wooden beams. Reliable supports deepen into the ground to a depth of 1 m.

It is recommended to leave a distance of 200 mm from the longitudinal elements of the frame to the edge of the board. Canopies are attached at the same distance. Gates with a height of more than two meters are additionally reinforced with an average vein. If the gate frame is made of wood, be sure to use braces to maintain strength and geometry. When sewing the canvas, the boards can not be placed close. Leaving gaps will prevent buckling, deformation of the canvas due to increased humidity. If the gaps between the boards are unacceptable, you need to buy a grooved board.

Required Tools

You will need wood for the gate:

• bars for the frame of the gate with a section of 40 by 40 mm;
• slats for sheathing the frame 20 by 40 mm;
• round or square bar for supports with a diameter of 100 mm or more.

For the processing of lumber, assembly and installation, you need:

• wood saw or electric jigsaw;
• plane;
• drill with a set of drills;
• drill garden;
• plumb lines;
• rasp;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver, screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• components for concrete mix (cement, sand, crushed stone);
• basin for mixing concrete;
• roulette, level;
• marking pencil;
• sandpaper;
• blowtorch;
• primer;
• brush;
• antiseptic for impregnation.

Required metal parts of the structure:

• canopies for gates - 2 pcs.;
• hinges, latch for the gate;
• loops for a padlock (if the gate will be closed from the outside).

Manufacturing and assembly process

In order to make a wooden gate with your own hands, you need careful preparation. Only after drawing up a design scheme, collecting the necessary materials and tools, you can start production and installation.

Installation and installation of poles

Post installation steps:

1. Clearing the site and determining the location of the pits.
2. Digging holes with a drill or a bayonet shovel to a depth of at least 1 meter, with a diameter of 10 cm more than a pillar.
3. Cutting pipes with a grinder and inserting them into prepared pits.
4. Backfilling the gaps with crushed stone.
5. Checking the verticality of the support with a plumb line.
6. Compaction of crushed stone to strengthen the foundation.
7. Mixing a liquid solution (1 part three-hundredth of cement to 3 parts of sand).
8. Pouring mortar into pits. Wait for complete drying.
9. Brick cladding. If you add washing powder to the mortar during laying, this will prevent the composition from settling. The correctness of the angles is periodically checked with a plumb bob.
10. After installing the pillars, their tops are equipped with caps (ready-made or cut from galvanized steel). This improves drainage performance and looks aesthetically pleasing.
11. Folded brick rows are embroidered after drying.

Parts of the wooden supports that will be underground must be treated with a water-repellent resin or bituminous mastic to prevent destruction.

The gates are mounted on poles. Therefore, they must be installed correctly, securely, with rigid fasteners. For the normal functioning of the structure, sagging is unacceptable. To prevent violation of the geometry of the gate, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the supports in relation to the ground. Strengthening them into half a brick will not allow the pillars to warp. This width must be taken into account when drawing up a preliminary drawing.

Instead of wooden poles, you can install metal, brick or concrete supports. As an additional stiffener at the top of the support, it is recommended to fasten it with a horizontal beam.

Frame erection

The basis for the frame can be made of wood, metal profiles. In the second case, you will need a welding machine to connect the parts. If the gate frame is wooden, the beam is cut into the necessary parts and laid out on a flat place in the form of future gates. After checking the verticality and horizontality, holes are drilled in the bars. Details are fastened with self-tapping screws. It is fashionable to additionally strengthen the center and corners with the help of a cross beam and metal corners. Beams for reinforcement are attached across the frame crosswise at an angle of 45 degrees.

For fastening, you can take self-tapping screws or use dowels from dry wood. Nagels must first be coated with epoxy glue. To fix the skin in the center of the frame, a jumper is additionally installed. In the corners, jibs are attached - bars of 30-40 cm. When erecting a frame, its size should be taking into account the protrusion of the sheathing boards by 20-25 cm. It is convenient to collect and sheath in a horizontal position on the ground.

Sash manufacturing

The sheathed frame must be hung on the installed supports. After preparing the wings, metal hinges are attached. They are hung on the frame or on support poles. The optimal location of the loops is calculated in this way. From the top and bottom of the support, a distance of ¼ of the total height is planned. After marking, lancet hinges are attached, on which the sashes are installed.

The lower edge of the leaves must be at least 5 cm from the ground. Otherwise, snow or ice that has fallen will prevent the gate from opening. To prevent the sashes from opening from the wind, they need to be adjusted. When marking the attachment points, it is advisable to use a level.

Gate installation

Before installing wooden gates, the hinges are screwed to the leaves. At the same time, "capercaillie" are inserted. Before screwing in the bolts, holes are drilled to a depth of several centimeters in pre-marked places. Their diameter should be less than the diameter of the screw. This trick will make it easier to screw in the bolts. It is important to keep the distance from the ground to the sashes from 5 cm. After installation, the closed sashes are fixed with a padlock or a metal pin. The coating on the wooden surface is applied after the installation of the gate structure.

Structural sheathing

The frame is sheathed with boards, slats or a picket fence. The elements are attached to the base with self-tapping bolts. Various mounting options are used. For example, a picket fence is fastened without gaps vertically or boards with clearance diagonally.

Sheathing elements are cut to the desired dimensions in the required quantity. Pine boards are often used for sheathing. This type of wood is the most protected from climatic influences. After trimming, the elements are planed on all sides and attached to the frame.

When installing boards with gaps, a wooden lath is used as a template. The rail is taken equal to the length of the board and the width of the gap step.

Boards fixed with screws are cut in a straight line. The place of cut and unevenness on the surface is polished with sandpaper. The edges of the sashes can be insulated for better sealing and better thermal insulation.

Impregnation and coloring of wood

Installed sash remains covered with a primer, antiseptic solution, varnish. Wood coating products must be designed for outdoor use. Processing sequence:

1. Sanding wood with sandpaper or a grinder, including the processing of side surfaces.
2. Sealing the pores with putty and re-sanding after drying.
3. Toning for the appearance of the shade and texture of wood.
4. Applying a primer.
5. Coating with the first layer of varnish.
6. After drying, apply a second layer of varnish.

If iron forging is used as a decor, decorative elements are attached before grinding and painting. To protect the wooden canvas during the fastening of forged parts, a thin tin sheet is used. After varnishing, the joints of iron and wood are treated with a sealant.

Finally

For self-manufacturing and installation of wooden gates, you will need minimal skills in working with construction tools and your patience. All steps are simple and can be done if desired with your own hands. Like any construction work, a high-quality result is a combination of strict adherence to the recommendations of professionals, the use of high-quality materials, and accurate measurements. Wooden gates, as the face of your home, with a competent approach and periodic maintenance, will last for many decades.