How to plant cucumber seeds in open ground. Planting cucumbers in open ground

Cucumber is a favorite, fresh and fragrant product of the summer table. Compose legends and sing praises not about us, it is better to teach the reader how to plant cucumbers, grow and store properly, enjoying the harvest. Follow the steps in this instruction, and in the new season the garden will delight you. Read and write!

Preparing for landing

Before you start any business, you should prepare for it. Planting cucumbers includes determining the timing and location of the beds, as well as the best neighboring crops.

Landing dates

Question: When to plant cucumbers?

Answer:“For seedlings - 25-30 days before planting on permanent place, and in open ground - depending on the region. When the soil temperature is not below 15 degrees and there is no danger of night frosts.

According to the lunar calendar different regions seeds are sown for seedlings from January to April, the sowing time also depends on the timing of the ripening of vegetables. Successful in 2019 planting days drop out:

• in January at 10-11, 15-16, 19;
• in February - 7.8, 11-13, 16-17, 28;
• in March at 10-12, 15-16 and 19;
• in April - 7.8, 11.12, 16-17.

Site selection

For growing cucumbers, a well-lit place should be allocated. From the north and from the side of constantly blowing winds, a row of cucumbers must be protected. If there are no buildings from the north, you need to grow backstage rows around the cucumber planting. Crops such as sunflower, corn, legumes, potatoes are suitable for this. From the north and from the windy side, it is better to plant a dense wall of corn. So within the cucumber planting a favorable microclimate will be created.

"IN middle lane in the evening and at night, cucumbers should be covered in arcs with non-woven material.

Agricultural technology of a vegetable implies its participation in crop rotation. "Relatives" of the cucumber are all cucurbits that require identical nutrition and are subject to the same diseases and pests. Therefore, it is impossible to plant either before or after them, there will be no harvest.

Plants to plant next to

Proven in practice - perfect neighbors for cucumbers (open or closed ground) will be: pepper, eggplant, cabbage, lettuce, dill, radish, spinach. If growing cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, they must be planted in such a way that they do not obscure other crops. Since the rules for caring for cucumbers and tomatoes differ, it is highly undesirable to grow them together.

An interesting combination of cucumber and kohlrabi plantings. The cucumber bed, being always moistened, will allow the cabbage to give juicy and large turnips.

Soil preparation

Two main parts of the task can be distinguished: preparing a bed for planting cucumbers and enriching the soil necessary elements for their development.

The first step is to take care of fencing the beds with a wooden box. Such a “fence” brings some advantages to the gardener’s work:

• nutrient soil concentrates within the ridge, and not in the passage;
• it becomes possible to attach arcs to the box to cover plants with hygroscopic material during bad weather;
• conditions are created for the preservation of mulch under a certain plant;
• it is convenient to carry out planned work, such as: planting, feeding plants, fixing on arcs and / or cucumber net, pest control, etc.

The best option for cucumbers is warm bed, which must be built in the fall. If you want to get a good harvest of cucumbers this year, but there is not enough time or materials to build a high box (40-80 cm), there is a way out.

In the spring, you can install a one-board (20-25 cm) high structure on an existing bed. The technology looks like this:

1. we build a box according to the size of the planned beds, impregnate it biological protection and moisture resistant coating;
2. we carry out planned marking around the perimeter;
3. within the marked area, choose upper layer soil to a depth of 15-20 cm (we store the earth nearby, as it will still come in handy);
4. thoroughly install the element in a permanent place, slightly driving the board around the perimeter;
5. we fill the resulting bed with any available plant material: last year's foliage, the remains of flowers, vegetable waste from cooking, weeds (without seeds) with a layer of 30-40 cm (the more, the better). (It is better not to lay tree branches, they will not have time to decompose in time and interfere with the growth of cucumbers);
6. we lay plant residues and the earth selected from the garden in layers;
7. we spill the resulting “layer cake” with “Baikal” (diluted according to the instructions), self-made green fertilizer, infusion of chicken manure or rotted slurry. (To start the process of decay of plant residues, the mass must be wet);
8. to get rid of fungal diseases, we spill the mass with “Fitosporin” and cover the bed with hay on top, with a layer of 5-10 cm.

Such a bed will make growing cucumbers not a laborious task and is suitable for pumpkin crops such as zucchini, squash, pumpkin. Harvest is guaranteed from the first year of laying.

Partial preparation of the soil has already been completed. By the time the seedlings are planted or the seeds are sown, all the remnants will rot, turning into fertile land. The second stage is the preparation of the soil mixture for growing seedlings of cucumbers and filling the holes when planting in the ground. This will require:

• garden soil;
• biohumus;
• coconut substrate;
• wood ash (for 10 l of soil mixture - 0.5 l wood ash).

Biohumus is put in small proportions, only to improve the quality of the soil, coconut substrate - to loosen it, and wood ash - to deoxidize and recharge with potash fertilizer.

Selection and preparation of seeds

Seed preparation is an important stage on which the germination of cucumbers and resistance to diseases depend. The seeds of all crops contain growth inhibitors that slow down germination. When buying seed material in specialized stores, it is important to pay attention to the expiration date indicated on the package. Fresh (but not last year's) seeds guarantee maximum germination.

But even if, through an oversight, the old ones were bought, after step-by-step preliminary preparation for planting, you can count on good germination. Seed disinfection

Pre-sowing seed treatment includes two concepts: disinfection and stimulation of root formation. There are several options at the discretion of the gardener:

1. soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate. This is only a way to disinfect, does not stimulate the development of roots;
2. disinfection through boric acid. Solution Ingredients: 1 tbsp. hot water and ¼ tsp. boric acid. Soak for half an hour in a warm liquid, after which the seeds must be thoroughly washed and sown in any usual way;
3. soaking in an ash solution - stir 0.5 tsp. wood ash in 1 glass of hot water, let cool and lower the seeds for an hour;
4. treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

Warming up the seeds Warming up is the first step in the seed preparation process. Heat treatment increases germination, and in the case of pumpkin crops (cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin) it affects the formation of female fruit-bearing flowers on the plant.

There are several ways to warm up, for example:

1. for 1.5-2 months, seeds wrapped in gauze are hung near the battery or stove;
2. seeds of cucumbers and other cucurbits can be soaked in hot water(42-45 degrees) for 20 minutes, and then lower into cold water to stop internal heating.

Preplant seed dressing

Before sowing, it is desirable to stimulate root formation, for example like this:

1. treatment with hydrogen peroxide (for 1 glass of water - 1 tsp. 3% hydrogen peroxide) for an hour. Peroxide saturates plant cells with oxygen and increases their immunity, and also, being a strong oxidizing agent, kills all microbes. After the procedure, the seeds are sown immediately, without washing;
2. seed treatment with Epin and Zircon preparations, but they are only related to germination stimulation, and not to seed treatment.

Pre-stratification

Another method of pre-sowing treatment is stratification. Cooling simulates the presence of seeds in natural conditions. Spend it in the refrigerator for 5-10 days.

Landing in open ground

Planting cucumbers in open ground usually occurs in May. To determine a more accurate moment, gardeners do not forget about the lunar calendar for 2019.

In the warmest regions, planting is possible already in April, 11,12,16 and 17 are favorable for this. In May, cucumbers are planted on 8-10 and from 13 to 16 are the better days. In Siberia, seedlings will be transplanted into hotbeds and greenhouses on June 5, 6 and from 9 to 15 June.

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to put a greenhouse on the site, but everyone wants to eat their own cucumbers.

Seedling method

Cucumbers are a crop with a vulnerable root system, so it is more correct to sow them for seedlings not in boxes, but in separate plastic cups. To do this, you can purchase universal land or make soil mix independently: 3 kg of lowland peat, 3 kg garden soil, 3 kg of humus and 1 kg of washed sand.

For 10 liters of the mixture, add 1 tsp. urea, 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 3 tbsp. l. wood ash. Seedlings must be illuminated before 12-hour daylight hours, otherwise the stems will stretch and weaken. Hatching cucumbers are transplanted into open ground (with two formed leaves), into wooden beds, when the weather forecast in the region does not promise night frosts, and the soil warms up to 15 degrees.

Plants are carefully taken out together with an earthy clod and lowered into prepared, spilled warm water holes without deepening. To reduce moisture evaporation, mulching with hay or straw will help. For seedling cultivation, the German f1 hybrid is perfect. The seeds are laid out in containers, slightly pressing, then poured with boiling water on top and closed tightly with a lid. The container is wrapped in a towel and put on the battery for an hour. After being moved to warm place at a temperature of 25-28 degrees per day.

"After 1-2 days, the container should be checked for sprouts."

This method allows you to grow early cucumbers in own apartment- on a window or on a glazed balcony. Already in early April, you will boldly show off the harvest. To plant before winter, the most early-ripening hybrids are suitable: “furor f1” and “shosha f1”. In principle, any parthenocarpic cucumbers can be grown at home on the windowsill.

Sowing seeds

After waiting for warm weather, without night frosts, we sow cucumbers in open ground. 3 days before, the prepared soil is covered polyethylene film for final heating. Seeds that have passed all stages of processing are prepared for planting according to the scheme: in grooves, embedment depth 1-2 cm, at a distance of 50 cm from each other. They fall asleep gently with earth and lightly tamp with the palm of your hand. This method is used by most summer residents when growing cucumbers on a trellis.

Sowing from seeds or seedlings is also possible when growing cucumbers in a barrel (maximum 5 plants per 200-liter barrel), which is best placed in the shade, not in the sun.

Caring for cucumbers in the open field

Proper care of cucumbers open field involves such agrotechnical procedures as: watering, weeding, loosening, hilling, bush formation, top dressing.

Frequency and rules of watering

Cucumbers cannot stand cold and dry soil. Seedlings and plants planted in the ground are watered only with warm (more than 18 degrees) settled water. If you deviate from the rules, the seedlings will undergo fungal diseases and rot.

Suitable soil moisture is 80%. Regular drip irrigation will be optimal for moisture-loving cucumbers. During fruiting, this should be done daily.

Feeding selection and schedule

IN certain deadlines development of a cucumber, it needs various fertilizers. At the initial stage for the growth of lashes - nitrogen top dressing, "green" fertilizer. During flowering, the need for potassium increases, and wood ash will come to the rescue.

Most of all, top dressing is relevant during the fruiting period, when with the harvest the plant selects everything from the soil. nutrients. Nitrogen, potassium, magnesium and calcium are needed to replenish the costs. It is recommended to feed at this time with a frequency of 7-10 days, alternating: “green” fertilizer (herbal infusion) and an ash solution that has settled for an hour (1 tbsp of wood ash per 10 liters of water).

If there is no ash, dilute the purchased potassium humate (1/2 teaspoon of humate per 10 liters of water) and water it. Cucumbers are fed with this composition under the root and only on wet ground, based on a consumption of 5 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. If cucumbers do not bloom, ½ tsp is added to the solution to improve fruit set. boric acid powder. If the plant is not forgotten to feed, it will delight with long-term fruiting.

Cucumber processing

It is best not to wait for the manifestation of cucumber diseases, but to do prevention as the culture grows. In order to protect against root rot, already at the stage of 4-5 true leaves, the first treatments should be carried out every 7-10 days, spilling a fungicide solution under the plant root (on wet ground).

Weeding and loosening

The roots of the plant are tender, so they take care of the cucumbers very carefully. Weeding and loosening is carried out so as not to damage the underground part. When the cucumber is still small, it should be loosened to a depth of 4-5 cm daily, then once a week.

Weeds around are removed regularly by hand, and the space between the plants is carefully weeded. In addition to weeding and loosening, it is advisable to spud cucumbers 2-3 times per season. The lower part of the trunk is most susceptible to root rot. If you sprinkle with earth at a level of 5-10 cm and form a circular furrow at a distance of 10 cm from it, it will not come into contact with water during irrigation. Accordingly, the risk of fungal diseases will decrease.

Hilling helps to increase the volume of roots, strengthen the trunk and increase productivity. 2-3 days before the technique, you need to cut off the lower leaves to the height of the attachment and dry the place of their cut.

Shoot garter

Tie cucumber stems should be very careful, because the plant has not yet grown a strong root system and it is easy to damage. Then once or twice a week, you need to wrap the main shoot around the twine clockwise, and leave the top unwrapped.

Formation of cucumber bush

Unformed cucumber bush good harvest will not give. The following are the rules for carrying out manipulations to form a plant:

1. In the axils up to 3-5 leaves, we remove all the ovaries and pinch the lateral shoots so that the forces are directed to the development of the root system.
2. We pinch all the lateral shoots of the next 3-5 leaves, and leave the ovaries intact.
3. On the next tier, in 3-5 sheets, we pinch the stepchildren after the 1st leaf, then 2 leaves, etc. before the formation of 4 sheets on the lateral stepson.
4. We finish the technique by pinching the main stem.

Proper care for bush cucumbers (with a bouquet ovary) will be somewhat different. The first two steps are repeated, as in the previous case, and the subsequent molding takes place strictly in a single stem.

Try to always get rid of male flowers, damaged cucumbers and mustaches, because they will not allow the plant to fully develop. As it grows, carefully and ruthlessly remove yellow dry foliage and damaged shoots.

Pests and diseases

Treating cucumbers is difficult, but possible. It is best, of course, to pay attention to prevention throughout the season. Today there are very affordable, reliable and effective means. The most common diseases:

• downy mildew;
• root rot;
• olive blotch;
• gray rot.

Dangerous pests:

• whitefly;
• spider mite.

Harvest and storage

Harvesting is the most enjoyable activity.

Question: "When do you need to pick cucumbers?"

The answer is: "Depending on how they will be used."

For fresh consumption, the size of a cucumber can be any, cucumbers 8-18 cm are more suitable for barrel pickling, and for preservation, the length of the vegetable should not exceed 10 cm. When fruiting becomes massive, cucumbers are removed daily, or even twice a day, thereby contributing to the development of the following ovaries.

If you harvest often, you can achieve more cucumbers for conservation, and if rarely, only lettuce and pickling specimens will grow. Remove cucumbers from the bush early morning or in the evening, cutting off with a knife (scissors) at the base, so that the stalk remains on the lash. It is customary to store fresh vegetables at home in the refrigerator, but what to do if the crop is harvested and there is no place: firstly, preserve some for the winter or cook lightly salted cucumbers;

secondly, lay (each variety separately) in cardboard box in a cool place, cover thick cloth well sprinkled with water, and cover with plastic wrap. Growing cucumbers, following these instructions, will not be a job, but a hobby. When the efforts are rewarded with a rich harvest, you can give your friends the secrets of growing and become a master gardener.

Cucumbers are cultivated in open ground in almost every household plot. After all, such cultivation at low cost and with proper care can not only provide the family with a useful and favorite vegetable, but also serve as an additional income. How to grow cucumbers and how to achieve a high yield of plants, what points in their cultivation should I pay special attention to?

The specifics of growing vegetables in open ground: the pros and cons

When growing cucumbers in open ground, you need to know that this pumpkin culture is very demanding on moisture, light and heat. She needs protection from the winds, shelter from unexpected frosts, regular watering. It is not always possible to grow an excellent crop, as it often depends on weather conditions. The process from seed to fruit is very time consuming. In addition, he requires necessary knowledge some features and secrets of growing whimsical plants.

Benefits of growing cucumbers outdoors:

• small costs;
• the ability to clear the field of weeds before sowing (because late sowing is carried out);
• huge market;

Disadvantages:

• heat requirement;
• the need for regular watering;
• dependence on weather conditions;
• manual collection

How to grow cucumbers in open ground: popular ways

Cultivation raised

With this method, cucumbers are grown on ridges. Scourges of cucumbers are evenly distributed on them and receive enough sunlight for the growth of the entire plant. But the downside is that changing the position of the lashes, which cannot be dispensed with when caring for them, leads to oppression of the leaves and delays the ripening of fruits in the future.

Tapestry method

This is a two-line method of planting cucumbers on a support. It is more time consuming, but has many advantages: space is saved, free air access, good lighting and convenient plant care, long-term fruiting and the best quality fruits are less susceptible to disease.

With this method, tapestries or slats are installed on metal supports, which are driven into the ground to a depth of 30–40 cm. Bushes are formed and a garter is made at a trellis height of 1 m. If the trellises are low, the cucumber stems are thrown to the other side without forming and are not tied up. The trellis method is considered to be more productive than planted growing.

Growing in barrels

Metal barrels are filled with rotted plant residues, compost, the last layer is the usual nutrient soil. The substrate is well shed with water and covered with plastic wrap for a week to warm up. 5 seeds are sown in a container or ready-made seedlings are planted, covering with a film. After the plants started to grow, supports in the form of arcs are installed around the barrel. Plants are regularly watered as the soil dries. This original way allows you to get more early harvest, saves space and time for caring for the plant, the fruits are always clean, and the structure itself with curly cucumber lashes has a beautiful aesthetic appearance.

A barrel with a cucumber roof is an incredible sight!

Soil and garden preparation

Choosing a site for sowing seeds

You need to choose a site for planting cucumbers carefully, taking into account all their whims. First of all, they select a well-lit place, protected from cold winds. If there is no such place, it is created artificially by planting tall plants in cucumber aisles. Usually corn and sunflower act as a protective barrier.

Proper crop rotation plays a major role in the preparation of future cucumber beds. In no case should cucumbers be planted where beets and pumpkin crops were previously grown. good predecessors are legumes (with the exception of beans), nightshade crops, cabbage.

Soil preparation

Fertile soil must be taken care of in the fall. Cucumber responds well to organic matter. Therefore, compost, rotted manure 5–8 kg / m 2, is applied to future ridges during digging or plowing for the winter. If there is no manure, use mineral fertilizers(potassium salt - 200 g / m 2, superphosphate - 300 g / m 2). Plants do not like acidic and heavy clay soil. If there is no choice, it is diluted with limestone sand 10 kg / m. 2 Conversely, sandy soil diluted with the same amount of clay.

10 days before sowing, experienced gardeners recommend adding ammonium nitrate 100 g / m 2, and adding mullein diluted in water (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20) to the planting holes.

Cucumber beds

How to choose the right type of future beds? It all depends on several factors: the depth of the underlying ground water, soil content, readiness to perform labor-intensive work.

Ordinary beds

In areas with prepared soil, ridges are formed with a width of 1 m or 0.5 m and the same passages between the rows. For vigorous

- on beds without insulation, we form them 90 - 100 cm wide, 20 - 25 cm high, leaving a 30 - 40 cm path between them. However, narrow beds (45 cm each) with wide aisles (70 - 90 cm) are more suitable for vigorous plants ). Then the lashes of cucumbers will not intertwine, which means they will not be damaged. If it is planned to grow cucumbers in a virgin place, it is better to form beds in the fall, especially if the site is located in a damp lowland, or the soil in the garden is heavy clay, or the fertile layer is small.

Comb beds

Comb beds (width 0.4–0.5 m, height - 0.3 m) will be appropriate on clay soils and areas with surface groundwater. This contributes to the fact that the root system of cucumbers does not dry out. Indeed, in such a bed, water flows from the ridges during irrigation and rain. The beds are convenient for care: tillage, fertilization. Minus: in rainy weather, after contamination of the leaves, the development of diseases of cucumbers is possible.

warm beds

Creating warm beds is ideal for cucumbers. There are two types of such ridges:

1. They dig a trench (at least 1m), fill it with organic matter (use rotted and non-rotted plant residues, manure) to the level of the path. In the future, the contents of the trench will not only nourish the plants, but also provide them with heat, saturate the root system with carbon dioxide.
2. Everything is done in the same way as in the previous version. Around the trench is a side with wooden planks or flat slate 20-30 cm above the ground level. High beds protect from the cold, retain moisture well.

Warm beds allow you to make a film shelter, reduce the number of tillages, and water cucumbers easily and simply. Frightens a large amount of work on the preparation of the beds.

Note: area with heavy clay soil and shallow groundwater will help retain moisture in the trench, which can lead to rotting of plants.

Photo gallery: arrangement of beds of different types

Raised bed Comb bed Traditional bed

How to plant cucumbers in open ground with seeds

Preparing seeds for sowing

Seeds of cucumbers that are 2–3 years old are considered productive, although they can remain viable for up to 8 years. When buying seeds, you should give preference to pelleted ones, which do not need to be prepared for sowing. Other seeds are prepared for sowing in advance:

note: early sowing is done with dry seeds to avoid frost damage. In later lines, with steady heat, germinated seeds are sown in moist soil.

This is what germinated seeds look like

Terms of landing in the ground

The timing of sowing cucumber seeds in open ground has long been associated with church holidays And folk omens. These days almost always coincide with auspicious days for sowing this crop in the lunar calendar. You will never go wrong if you stick to these traditions. And using all the recommended dates and sowing in stages, you will enjoy cucumbers until the first frost. Of course, the exception will be situations when the soil has not had time to warm up to 18 ° C, and the night temperature is below 12 ° C.

• The first sowing falls on May 19 and is dedicated to the memory of Job the Long-suffering;
• The day of Falaley-Borage, Gardener, Teploveya (June 2) will be suitable for the second stage of sowing;
• The last stage is the middle of June. At this time, the poplar blossoms (folk sign). It is necessary to choose a favorable day according to the lunar calendar.

Sowing seeds in open ground

For sowing cucumbers, a furrow is made with a hoe or manually with a depth of 3-4 cm. If possible, water it, lay out the seeds at a distance of 15 cm from each other. First, they are covered with moist soil by 1.5, and then necessarily dry, in order to avoid the appearance of a dry earthen crust, which hinders the growth of seedlings and air access. The soil is well compacted.

Read also about what can be planted in the summer in our article -

How and what to hide

Table: covering materials for cucumbers - advantages and disadvantages

How and when to hide

After sowing, the soil is sprinkled 3–4 cm with peat, rotted manure, sawdust, straw, that is, it is mulched. Mulching not only helps to retain moisture, protects against diseases and weeds, but also is the first shelter for crops from the cold (soil temperature rises by several degrees during mulching). In order to maintain moisture and shelter from recurrent frosts and cold weather, crops are covered with plastic wrap or other covering material even before germination. The film is removed 2 times a week to ventilate the beds. If the shelter is made of nonwovens, you can't remove it. After the appearance of young shoots, the shelter is removed. In early June, there are unforeseen night frosts. Therefore, it is necessary to follow the weather forecast and make shelter in time. You can regularly cover cucumber beds at night until mid-June.

Good protection for seedlings - shelter beds after sowing with spunbond

Some gardeners use covering materials until the end of fruiting in order to create additional warmth, protection from rains and winds.

Care

After the cucumbers have 2 true leaves, the seedlings are thinned out. Do this carefully, manually pinching the sprout at the base so as not to damage the roots of neighboring plants. Two plants can be left in the nest. Number of plants per running meter depends on the type of cucumber. Strong-growing cucumbers (Buyan, Farmer, Little Boy, etc.) require larger area for stems. Therefore, 2 plants can be left on 1 linear meter with a distance between them of 0.5 m. For varieties with small lashes (Parker, Gherkin, etc.), a distance of 30 cm between plants is sufficient. After thinning, the soil on the beds is loosened to a depth of 10 cm. When 5–6 true leaves appear, the plants are spudded, adding moist soil to the base. Thanks to this operation, new roots are formed and cucumbers receive additional nutrition.

How to form a bush

The formation of a cucumber bush has grown

In the beds where bee-pollinated varieties of cucumbers are grown with big amount fruitful shoots, it is necessary to pinch. Usually it is done after 4 sheets. Without this procedure, the development of many shoots with unlimited growth will lead to the depletion of the plant and a decrease in yield. Hybrids do not need pinching.

How to form plants growing on a trellis?

It is much more difficult to form plants grown on a trellis. Vigorous varietal cucumbers and hybrids are subject to formation. First of all, the lower leaves up to 5 leaves are removed on the stem, which contributes to the free access of air to the whole plant. In the process of growth, lateral shoots are alternately pinched, starting from the bottom. First, shoots are pinched after 2 leaves, then several shoots - after 3 leaves. And the last row of shoots - after 4 sheets. The upper lash of the central stem is lowered down, leaving 1 leaf on it and pinching at a height of 1 m to the level of the soil. The result is a bush in the form of a reverse pyramid. This is a professional and time-consuming plant formation scheme.

Cucumber bush after reverse-pyramidal formation looks compact and aesthetically pleasing

If you are not ready to do professional shaping, just pinch the plant after 6 leaves and tie the side shoots to the trellis. In this case, the lower 3 leaves are removed, and later additional processes appearing from the axils of the shoots are cut out. After removing leaves and shoots, do not leave stumps!

Note: Not all varieties require shaping, and they are not pinched.

How to tie

Nature endowed this vegetable with tenacious tendrils that silently ask for support. This fact confirms the idea of ​​the need to tie the plant. A tied plant saves a lot of space, gives more shoots, is less susceptible to diseases, resulting in increased yields.

They begin to tie up the plant when it reaches a height of 30 cm and at least 4 true leaves appear. More mature plant breaks when tied. Carefully tie the stem under the first leaf, loosely pull the rope and tie a knot to young plant not uprooted. best material for a garter - tape strong soft fabric 2–3 cm wide.

The simplest in execution is a horizontal garter. Between the supports driven into the ground, a rope is pulled in three rows. Young shoots are directed around the bottom row of the stretched rope.

With a vertical garter, a rope or wire is attached to the supports from above. Ropes are tied along the entire length of the wire above each plant, the lower end of which is tied at the base of the stem.

The plant feels comfortable on a mesh trellis, which is attached to the supports. Cucumbers on a high trellis (from 1 m) need a garter.

Recently, triangular and spherical supports have been made, which have decorative look. The choice depends on your capabilities and imagination.

Cucumbers tied on a triangular support look original

How to water and feed

Watering

Cucumbers are watered with settled, warm water (not lower than 22 C). In summer, water can be heated in the sun in any container. Best time for watering - evening. But if the night temperature is too low, watering is done in morning time. Before flowering, plants that are grown in areas with light soil, it is enough to water 2 times a week, on clay - 1 time. But with the onset of flowering and fruiting, they require daily watering. In this case, the soil must be constantly moist to a depth of at least 10 cm. Of course, weather conditions are taken into account.

Young plants can be watered with a watering can and a hose with a spray gun. Adults from such sprinkling can be exposed to fungal diseases. Due to watering under the root, the root system is exposed and gradually dies off, the yield of the vegetable decreases. Therefore, it is better to water them along the furrows, mulching the soil after watering.

top dressing

For the first time, plants are fed after the first loosening. It is better to feed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20). If not organic fertilizers, complex mineral (50 g / 10 l) are suitable. The solution is evenly distributed along the grooves around the roots at a distance of 10 cm from the plant. The second dressing is done during mass flowering. Both organic and mineral fertilizers are used. It is desirable to add 0.5 g of boric acid, 0.3 g of potassium permanganate, 30–40 g of potassium sulfate to the bucket. The third dressing is done during fruiting. Together with organic matter, add 1 teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate to a bucket. If necessary, after two weeks, the plants are fed for the fourth time, similarly to the third feeding.

Whether cucumbers need to be fed or not can be seen by their condition. Ugly fruits indicate a deficiency of potassium and nitrogen. The predominance of male ovaries on the lashes indicates a lack of phosphorus. In this case, it is useful to make foliar feeding of cucumbers.

Features for regions, including Moscow region

If in the south and in the central strip of Russia (including the Moscow region) it is quite possible to grow cucumbers in open ground in a seedless way, then in Siberia it is better to prepare seedlings. The short summer and the harsh climatic conditions of this region make it difficult to grow the crop.

In the Moscow region, the soil warms up to 12 o C, usually in the last days of May. Therefore, cucumbers are sown in this zone, starting from the end of May and ending with the second decade of June. In the south, sowing in open ground can be done already in the third decade of April, ending in the second decade of July. Warm stable weather in the southern regions allows you to collect several crops of cucumber.

For the south, it is appropriate to take varieties from ultra-early to late; in other regions, late varieties on ordinary beds in the open field simply do not have time to bear fruit. Therefore, the inhabitants of the central strip of Russia and Siberia are trying to grow plants mainly on warm ridges in order to get a harvest as early as possible. At the same time, preference is given to early and mid-ripening varieties, the ripening period of which does not exceed 50 days (for the central regions) and 40 days (for Siberia).

In order not to be left without a crop, it is necessary to select zoned hybrids and varieties that have been tested in the climatic conditions of the region. Usually 5-7 varieties are sown, among which there are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic. For Siberia, bee-pollinated varieties Altai, Brigantina, Far East, hybrids Miranda, Chinese, Crocodile Gena, etc. have proven themselves well. climatic conditions Moscow suburbs fit Magnificent, Nezhinsky, Competitor, VIR 505, etc., universal hybrids Annushka, Stork, Masha, Metelitsa, Rodnichok, etc. Zoned varieties for the south - Success, Signal, Jubilee, Donskoy, Winner, etc.

Every year, new zoned hybrids of cucumbers are bred, surprising with their yield, resistance to diseases and unfavorable conditions. weather conditions. But it should not be forgotten that in order to excellent harvests in any region, it is important not only to choose a zoned variety, but also to carry out simple rules from seed preparation to harvest.

A teacher by education. My hobby is growing flowers. I try to experiment in the selection of garden and indoor plants(irises, Saintpaulia). I share my experience with the viewers of my You Tube channel.

Hard to find in our area household plot without cucumbers. This crop is grown by a lot of gardeners. At the same time, over the long history of this culture, a huge number of ways to plant and grow cucumbers have been invented. Each gardener has his own secrets of growing cucumbers, which have their own advantages and disadvantages, but at the same time are ideal for certain climatic conditions. An important place in obtaining a quality crop is the correct and timely sowing of cucumber seeds in the ground. Without correct sowing it is very difficult to get a crop of any crop, including cucumbers. Therefore, every gardener should know how to plant cucumbers correctly.

Sowing cucumbers is not a simple matter, as it might seem at first glance. Therefore, every gardener should know ground rules sowing cucumber seeds in the ground:

1. Cucumbers are best sown after cabbage, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, peppers, carrots and other vegetable crops. cucumbers cannot be sown after tikven cultures. It is also advisable not to sow cucumbers on heavy and acidic soils.
2. You need to sow the seeds of cucumbers on a pre-prepared bed. To do this, since autumn into the soil for 1 square meter you need to make 5-10 kilograms of rotted vegetable manure.
3. Sowing cucumbers, in temperate and southern regions, in two stages: first (in spring) they sow lettuce varieties, and at the beginning of summer, varieties (hybrids) are sown that are assigned for salting.
4. Before sowing, your own cucumber seeds must be disinfected with a weak 5% solution of potassium permanganate. This will avoid many viral and fungal diseases.
5. In the south, cucumbers are sown on even, well-cultivated soil. IN moderate and northern regions cucumbers are mainly sown on ridges or ridges. Often, for warming the beds, they bring in fresh manure, which is sprinkled with a thick layer of soil (0.4-0.6 m).
6. Cucumbers are sown in shallow rows (2-4 cm) with a distance between rows of at least 70 centimeters and a distance between plants of 5-10 centimeters. IN southern regions cucumbers need to be sown much less frequently, so the distance between rows should be more than 90 centimeters, and the distance between plants 15-20 cm. Some gardeners sow cucumbers in a nested way according to the scheme: 70x70 or 60x60 centimeters. At the same time, 4-6 seeds are sown in the nest.
7. If the soil is dry, then before sowing the seeds, the soil should be plentifully watered with warm water.
8. To improve harvesting between rows, plants with a strong stem (corn or sunflower) are often sown or special supports are built. Cucumbers weave along them and thus it is easier to harvest. At the same time, cucumbers are better pollinated by insects, and the yield will be 20-30% more than with conventional cultivation.
9. After sowing, the bed must be leveled. For getting fast shoots the bed is often covered with a transparent film. In this case, the distance between the soil and the film must be at least 5 centimeters.

Sowing cucumber seeds is not challenging task, but by doing it right, you can get a much larger yield than with simple sowing.

Therefore, gardeners every year come up with more and more new ways to get a crop as early as possible, as much as possible and for as long as possible. This is also facilitated by breeders who develop many varieties and hybrids that are more productive and disease resistant.

Listen to the radio broadcast:

How to achieve a good harvest of cucumbers. (The country's chief summer resident Andrey Tumanov)

Without high-quality and timely sowing, it is difficult to get a good harvest even from the most productive varieties or hybrids of cucumbers.

Therefore, gardeners pay great attention to this issue and try to do everything right so that there are no unwanted losses.

When to plant cucumber seeds in the ground

Cucumbers are grown in almost all regions. In some climatic zones, it is possible to harvest only 5-6 times during the warm season, in others - 40-50 times. It turns out that in the northern regions, where there is a short warm period of the year, it makes no sense to grow cucumbers from direct sowing of seeds in open ground, since the crop will be harvested within a short time (1-2 weeks). Therefore, in these regions, seedlings are often grown first, which are then transplanted into open ground when stable heat sets in. Cucumbers are sown in open ground in warm regions where it is possible to harvest for a long period (1-2 months). In each climate zone their terms of sowing seeds of cucumbers in open ground. This is due to the fact that cucumbers are afraid spring frosts, which are fatal to this culture. Therefore, to get a good harvest, gardeners must know when to plant cucumber seeds in open ground.

Terms of sowing seeds of cucumbers in the ground

Every experienced gardener focuses on its date when to start sowing cucumber seeds in open ground. Many years of cultivation by gardeners of this crop, in their regions, allows them to know better when the spring frosts end. The timing of growing cucumbers is often determined by the climatic indicators of the climatic zone:

Determining the timing of sowing cucumber seeds in open ground is important, since the timing of the first harvest depends on this. Some gardeners can already enjoy fresh cucumbers, while in others they will only bloom. Therefore, most gardeners often make trial (small) crops of cucumbers when night frosts are still possible, but it is already warm enough for the development of this crop. Trial crops may die, but at the same time they can survive (if there are no frosts), which will allow you to get an early harvest. Some gardeners simply grow seedlings, which also allows you to get the first harvest 1-2 weeks earlier.

Cucumbers are not at all laborious, but there are some nuances that every gardener who decides to plant this vegetable in his area simply needs to know. You can plant cucumbers both in a greenhouse and in open ground, both by planting seedlings, and by simply sowing seeds. Since cucumbers do not perceive the transplant very well, it is preferable to sow the crop with seeds immediately to a permanent place. In this case, it is more likely that all the seedlings will take root, and there will be no hassle with transplanting.

When to plant cucumbers in the open in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals

Cucumber is a crop that is very demanding on heat, so it cannot be planted in open ground too early. Seeds germinate at a soil temperature of 15-17 degrees, in cooler moist soil planting material just rots. It is not difficult to check whether the time for sowing has come, it is enough to place an ordinary thermometer at a soil depth of 10 centimeters and wait 15 minutes. As for the specific dates for planting cucumbers, it is impossible to answer with accuracy, because everything depends on the weather. For example, in the Moscow region, usually in mid-late May, it is quite possible to sow seeds, but as for the north of Siberia and the Urals, it is not worth planting cucumbers in open ground in these regions, it is better to choose a greenhouse method, and even grow a crop better seedlings(The fact is that the short, cool summer that happens in these regions will not allow plants to form normally, and you can forget about the harvest altogether, since cucumbers stop growing at temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius).

Most gardeners prefer to plant many crops. It is believed that the flowering time of mountain ash is the best period for sowing cucumber seeds in open ground.

When to sow cucumbers with seeds in open ground according to

In 2017:

• in May - 4, 15, 19, 24, 25, 31;


• in June - 1, 2, 11, 16, 20.

In 2018:

• in May - 1, 8, 16, 28;


• in June - 7, 19, 27, 30.

It is worth noting that when growing, it is desirable to plant seedlings in open ground also on the days listed above. The work carried out these days will favorably affect the growth of crops, the quantity of the crop and its quality.

In general, many gardeners do not use lunar calendar and at the same time annually collect excellent harvest certain cultures. From this we can conclude that competent care is much more important than landing in accordance with such calendars.

The main condition that must be taken into account when planting cucumber seeds in the ground is the absence of night frosts. It is also necessary that the soil be warmed up to 15-16 degrees, otherwise the cucumbers will sprout longer than usual. For heat-loving cucumbers, the air temperature is also important - it should not fall below 10-12 degrees even at night. The fulfillment of these conditions is necessary to obtain a timely and good harvest of cucumbers.

Important! Only those varieties that are intended for this and adapted to weather conditions can be planted in open ground.

Basic rules for planting cucumber seeds in open ground

Before sowing, it is recommended to treat the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate, aloe juice, and even soak with the addition of honey (this will disinfect and stimulate their growth). But, in order to save time and effort, you can purchase seeds already processed and fully prepared for planting.

Important! Seeds must be sown in pre-moistened soil.

Treated seeds should be planted in holes 2-3 cm deep and approximately 40 by 50 cm in size. The distance between the holes must be maintained depending on the length of the shoots of a particular variety of cucumbers. In each hole, 4-5 holes are made up to 1.5-2 cm deep. 2-3 seeds are placed in the holes with the sharp end up. Pits with seeds need to be loosened with a rake or by hand and wait for seedlings.

Useful advice: you can cover the cucumber bed with a film before germination, so the earth will remain wet for a long time, and the seeds will quickly hatch.