Cheap insulation of attic floors at home. Why insulate attic floors? How to insulate the attic with slab materials and mats

As many people remember from the school physics course, the warm air in the room rises, and the cold air, respectively, falls. It is through an uninsulated attic and roof that a house loses from 15 to 30% of its heat! Usually the attic is insulated during the construction of the house, but if necessary, attic insulation can also be done in a private old house.

Roof insulation

Insulating the attic of a new house

As a rule, they begin to insulate the attic after the work on the arrangement of the roof is completed: the coating is laid, the wind insulation is made. First, the floor is insulated, and if the layer of thermal insulation material is sufficiently reliable, you can take your time with the insulation of the roof slopes and gables.

Keep in mind that you can start warming the attic of a wooden house only after the building shrinks. Usually this is done no earlier than six months after the completion of construction, although shrinkage can continue for more than a year. Sometimes, during shrinkage, wooden structures warp or cracks appear in them. Before starting work in the attic, these shortcomings should be eliminated.

For work you will need

1. Insulation (chipboard, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded clay, sawdust with clay, etc.).
2. Materials for arranging steam and heat insulation:
   • vapor barrier foil (polypropylene or polyethylene film, metallized membrane or fiberglass membrane);
   • one- or two-sided adhesive tape for sealing seams between sheets of foil;
   • felt or polyurethane electrical tapes for heat and sound insulation of floors.
3. A tool for cutting insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene plates) and finishing materials (chipboard, lining, drywall, etc.).
4. Boards, plywood, lining or drywall boards.
5. Nails, hammer.
6. Construction stapler and staples.
7. Protective goggles, respirator and gloves for working with mineral wool.

Keep in mind that the attic insulation methods listed below are used in cases where it is not heated and is used as a warehouse, summer workshop, etc. However, if the attic is heated or used as a summer residential attic, slopes and walls should be additionally sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall slabs and paint, and lay slabs of expanded polystyrene or chipboard on the floor.

We warm the space under the roof

Many people probably noticed that in old village houses only the floor of the attic is often insulated, but not the roof. The fact is that the sloping surface of a gable roof holds a layer of snow well - it is this that serves as an additional “blanket” for the roof. Even in severe frosts, the temperature under the slopes rarely drops below zero degrees. In the attic, small windows are made that open for ventilation even in the summer heat.

In the attic, which will be used as a utility room, the space under the roof will have to be insulated. For self-insulation, it is convenient to use sheet insulation (polystyrene foam, mineral wool mats) or rolled mineral wool. Density of mineral wool insulation - 10-55 kg / sq. m. Sometimes these heaters are also used together: polystyrene foam is attached with the first layer, mineral wool is the second.

Before fixing the insulation between the rafters, a vapor barrier foil is nailed to the crate with a construction stapler. The joints are sealed with insulating tape, but you can also overlap the foil. You can also use foil mineral wool mats. In this case, additional vapor barrier is not required.

Usually the required thickness of the insulation sheets is somewhat greater than the thickness of the rafter legs. Make thickening “packings” on them and nail perpendicular elements from wooden or steel slats. Between them, place an additional layer of insulation, after which it is fixed with thin slats, and fill the wooden covering on top. In residential attics, you can finish the finish with drywall.

We warm the floor

As in the previous case, before laying out the insulation, a vapor barrier is made (for example, from foil polyisol). When arranging the floor slab, the film is laid on top of it, when the wooden floor is insulated, it is nailed with an overlapping stapler.

1. Concrete floor insulation. If a reinforced concrete slab serves as a ceiling, materials with a high density (> 160 kg / sq. M) are used to arrange thermal insulation. These are mineral wool or cork mats, extruded polystyrene foam, and expanded clay from bulk materials.
2. Thermal insulation of a wooden floor. Insulation in wooden floors is laid between the lags. Usually these are cotton wool insulation with a low density (< 50 кг/кв.м). Поверх утеплителя желательно настелить рубероид, а в качестве чистового пола уложить плиты ДСП.

Thermal insulation of the attic of an old house

Before starting work on warming the attic of an old house, carefully inspect it. Check for cracks in the rafters and gables, what is the safety of the ceiling. It is possible that some beams will have to be replaced, or it may be necessary to additionally insulate the roof. Wooden parts must be impregnated with special moisture- and fire-resistant solutions and an antiseptic solution from fungus and pests.

It is also necessary to perform a number of preparatory work. If the attic of the old house was previously insulated, and the insulation has not lost its properties, additional insulation materials can be laid on top of existing ones. For example, on top of a floor insulated with clay and sawdust, you can install a crate and lay mineral wool. Thus, “the initial level of the floor turns out to be “rough”.

Otherwise, the old insulation should be removed, and a new modern one with a higher set of operational properties should be laid on top of it. After additional insulation, a new finishing floor is laid.

Features of working with common heaters

Basic requirements for insulation materials:

1. relatively light weight (this is especially important in houses with wooden floors);
2. non-toxicity;
3. ease of processing;
4. fire resistance;
5. moisture resistance;
6. good heat and sound insulating properties.

All these requirements are met to some extent by modern insulating materials. The most popular of them are polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral (fiberglass and basalt) wool. In brick and stone houses with solid reinforced concrete floors, insulation is sometimes used "the old fashioned way". This can be done using inexpensive environmentally friendly expanded clay or clay mixed with sawdust.

Mineral wool

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool is the most inexpensive and at the same time acceptable in quality way of insulating attic spaces. Mineral wool has excellent heat and noise insulation properties, and its elasticity makes it easy to mount it on rafters. In addition, it is non-flammable and not susceptible to biological pests. Mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or in rolls.

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool slabs with so-called "randomly oriented fibers" are considered the most effective heat insulator. A mineral wool slab with a thickness of only half a centimeter in terms of thermal protection properties replaces almost a meter-long brickwork! At the same time, it is quite light and does not create additional load on the floors. Mineral wool is a durable material, its service life is at least 50 years.

When working with mineral wool, you need to remember that it contains a certain amount of formaldehyde. In addition, the smallest mineral wool “needles” are dangerous for the eyes and respiratory organs and irritate the skin of the hands. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and, moreover, lay mineral wool in goggles, a respirator and gloves. Respiratory masks can also be used.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Polyurethane foam refers to a liquid heat insulator and is applied to any surface (wooden, brick, stone, concrete) by spraying. Today it is considered the most effective heat-insulating building material. When processed with polyurethane foam, a durable base coating is created, so there will never be drafts in the insulated attic.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

By itself, polyurethane foam is an expensive material. However, before applying it, you do not need to do vapor barrier and waterproofing, and working with it is much easier than with other heat insulators. They can process the space under the roof between the rafters, and the voids between the logs of the wooden floor, and reinforced concrete floors.

Polyurethane foam allows you to reduce heat loss by almost almost 30% (compared to other materials for thermal insulation). Having spent a large amount of money on its purchase, in winter you will save twice on heating.

Styrofoam

Inexpensive, lightweight and durable, extruded polystyrene foam sheets are commonly used in old houses with hardwood floors. It holds heat well and does not weigh down the supporting structures, it is easy to cut (with a sharp clerical knife or saw) and mount it. Its other advantages are moisture resistance (it does not absorb moisture) and environmental friendliness.

To insulate the space under the roof and the floor, plates with a thickness of 10-15 centimeters are used in two layers. The first is fixed between the lags, and the second is laid on top of them. They fix the structure with slats, lay a vapor barrier on top (for example, Izospan), and then upholster it with plywood or clapboard.

It is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam if you use it as a technical or utility room. But if you are going to arrange, for example, a workshop in the attic, it is not recommended to use it. This material offers little to no noise protection and is not resistant to organic solvents that can spill onto the floor or evaporate into the air. Some types of expanded polystyrene are resistant to fire, but in general it is considered a combustible material.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is an inexpensive and quite effective natural heat-insulating material, which is used for thermal insulation of foundations and floors. It can be used in attics with reinforced concrete floors, as it creates a significant load on the beams. An effective layer of expanded clay on an area of ​​100 square meters according to GOST is poured in a layer of up to 60 centimeters, while the weight of the bedding is about 30 tons! In non-residential attics, the insulation layer may be smaller (25-40 centimeters), and in this case they do not make a concrete screed, but it often turns out to be unbearable for the attic floor of a wooden house.

Expanded clay insulation

Attic insulation with expanded clay has some features compared to other materials. Since this is a porous material that absorbs moisture, not only vapor barrier, but also waterproofing must be laid under the expanded clay backfill. It can be a roofing felt or an ordinary plastic film, which is better to lay with a single sheet, and not welded from several sheets.

It is not recommended to use polyethylene for a wooden floor, since the tree covered with it will not "breathe" - it is preferable to use Izospan as a vapor barrier.

For insulation, expanded clay with a fraction of 10-15 mm is used, which is poured into a wooden frame (“box”) made around the perimeter of the room. A vapor barrier membrane is also laid on top of the expanded clay layer. Despite the good thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, experts do not recommend using it specifically for thermal insulation of attics. If the attic is already insulated with expanded clay, its layer is insufficient, but you have no way to completely change the insulation, remove the subfloor and lay mineral wool on the expanded clay (under the upper vapor barrier membrane).

sawdust and clay

In the days of our grandmothers, in order to “do not blow from above”, dry leaves, straw, and hay were laid on the attic floor. But the most common and affordable way to make the house cozy was to insulate the attic with sawdust and clay. Insulating an attic in a village house or in a wooden cottage in the old way is very simple. It is important that this method of insulation will cost you almost free.

Insulation with sawdust and clay

Prepare the solution:

• dilute the clay to the density of fatty milk;
• Pour enough sawdust into the solution so that the solution can be mixed. In appearance, it will be just wet sawdust, slightly smeared with clay;
• pour the mixture on the attic floor with a layer of 15 centimeters, level and tamp.

After the mixture dries, you will get a very dense, slightly springy floor covering. From above, you can add another five centimeters of wet sawdust and tamp again. A mixture of clay and sawdust keeps heat well, besides, such a floor “breathes”. Fill the floor with a thin layer of lime, and sprinkle straw, chaff or dry sawdust on top.

Insulation of the attic floor makes it possible to save thermal energy inside the room, thereby preventing the cost of heating a cold attic. Still nothing if the attic is used as a utility room or attic, but what if not? Of course, it makes no sense to spend money on heating it in this case.

For this reason, it is desirable to cover the attic floor with the use of thermal insulation materials. This can be done both outside and inside. Ideally, insulation should begin at the stage of building a house or, alternatively, right before finishing the premises. However, even while living there is no reason not to take care of the insulation of the ceiling from the attic.

Note! The thickness of the insulation layer is stated in SNiP. In addition, there you can find all the necessary calculations of the heat transfer resistance of various insulating materials, taking into account the average annual temperature, the material used in the construction and the length of the heating season.

But before proceeding directly to the insulation, you must identify the type of attic floor. In the private construction of residential buildings (regardless of whether wood is used, bricks or blocks), it can only be of two types. But both must be built according to certain rules and have a well-defined design.

Basic requirements for attic floors

The main quality that any attic floor must necessarily have is strength. If we are talking about a mansard roof, then the entire structure should not sag or deform under the weight of furniture or equipment located in the attic. There is such a thing as the norm of deflection. For attic structures, it is 1/200 of the entire span. The maximum load per square meter is 105 kilograms. Another equally important parameter of the floor is fire safety, which is more true for wood structures. So, fire resistance has such limits:

1. for concrete or reinforced concrete structures, this is 1 hour;
2. for wooden structures (in the absence of additional protection) - five minutes;
3. for wooden floors along beams, with backfill and plaster - about 45 minutes;
4. for wooden floors with only one plastered surface - 15 minutes.

Features of the overlap device

It is often the beam ceiling that is encountered, which is explained by the simplicity and low cost of installation, so we will focus on it. Often they are found in wooden buildings, and elements of both wood and metal can serve as beams. According to experts, option number 1 is preferable, because:

1. wood is cheaper than metal;
2. it has excellent thermal insulation performance;
3. it is easier to handle.

Insulation of the attic floor, if there are beams, consists in laying insulating material between them. If the height of the beams is not enough for this, then the bars are additionally stuffed from above. Before proceeding with laying, a vapor barrier layer should be laid (only not a plastic film, since the vapors that leave the room will not be able to penetrate outside). And if the film is still used, then the level of humidity in the house will increase markedly, especially if the ventilation system is not working properly. For this reason, it is preferable to purchase a modern vapor barrier, which can be laid in such a way that the air leaves the room, but does not penetrate into the house from the attic. And if such material is with foil, then it must be laid “face down”.

But how to choose the right insulation so that the resulting “sandwich” is as effective as possible? We will talk about this now.

Types of insulation for the attic

There are a lot of such materials, but we will consider only the most popular of them. Here they are:

1. mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam;
3. sawdust;
4. expanded clay.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

The use of mineral wool

Mineral wool is an effective insulation, the fibers in which are arranged in a special way. Due to such randomness, an oxygen “cushion” is formed between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its properties. But because of the same feature, mineral wool or absorbs moisture. In order to prevent this, the installation must be carried out properly.

The advantages of this material are undeniable:

1. density;
2. ease of installation;
3. long service life;
4. fire safety;
5. finally, if the cotton wool is installed horizontally, then it does not slip and does not cake (read: cold bridges do not appear).

But there is also a drawback that we talked about - it absorbs moisture.

Mounting technology

Mineral wool can be laid in three possible ways:

1. into cells;
2. into furrows;
3. continuous.

The first method is the most efficient. The laying technology itself is as follows.

Step 1. First, lay the vapor barrier material - this is necessary to remove the steam that rises from the premises. For proper installation, you must familiarize yourself with the markings on the film made by the manufacturer.

Note! Do not forget to observe the obligatory overlap of 10 centimeters.

If thermal insulation is made along the beams, then the vapor barrier must go around each element that protrudes, otherwise the beams will soon rot.

Step 2 Where the film joins with walls and other surfaces that protrude, lift it to the height of the insulating material + 5 centimeters, then wrap it behind the material plates or glue it with adhesive tape.

Step 3 After that, proceed to laying the insulating material. This procedure is extremely simple, since strips and plates can be easily cut with a construction knife.

Step 4 When laying, pay attention to the fact that the insulation is not squeezed and there are no gaps. You can see common mistakes in the image below.

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In the first case, the thickness of the thermal insulation is not enough; in the rest, the same parameter of the attic floor is incorrectly selected.

1. Foil material will increase resistance to heat loss. But the material itself should be laid down with foil.
2. If there are protruding structural elements in the attic, then the insulation should be raised by 40-50 centimeters and fixed.
3. If a thin insulation material is laid in two layers, then it will be more effective than one thick layer.
4. Do not allow material to protrude beyond the beams. But if this still happened, extend it with a rail or beam to the thickness of the material itself.

Step 5 If the rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing layer, and the attic space will not be used, then it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

Step 6 It remains only to make a rough floor. To do this, lay it on a heater - this will be the basis for the final finish.

Use of Styrofoam

Insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam is in many ways reminiscent of a similar procedure with the use of polystyrene foam. Moreover, the advantages of these materials are common - here they are:

1. cheapness;
2. water resistance;
3. ease of installation.

Mounting technology

Installing foam for attic insulation is extremely simple - you can easily handle the procedure on your own. All work is divided into several stages.

Step 1. Level the surface. In order for the thermal insulation to be of the highest quality, no irregularities should remain on the base. And if you need to eliminate the recesses, then fill everything with a cement screed.

Step 2 Lay the insulation boards - between the bars or end-to-end. What is characteristic, if there are bars, then the strength of the structure will increase significantly.

Note! All joints (between the bars inclusive) must be carefully sealed. When avoiding obstacles, cut holes as accurately as possible. Finally, it is a homogeneous layer that saves thermal energy best of all.

To protect the foam in a non-residential attic from destruction, you can use a film. But if the attic is used often and people move along it, then the foam must be covered with a subfloor - it can be like a screed of cement and sand or OSB boards.

Using sawdust for attic insulation

Who does not know, shredded wood is called sawdust. We are talking about this material now, because it also has significant advantages, including:

1. availability;
2. naturalness;
3. light weight;
4. absence of any harmful or toxic substances.

The minus is the same as that of polystyrene - flammability.

The procedure for warming with sawdust

Step 1. First, prepare the sawdust, that is, mix it with water and cement in a ratio of 10-1-1.

Step 2 Pour the attic floor with the resulting mixture, and then carefully level it. Note that it is possible to insulate the attic with sawdust without a frame only if it (the attic) is non-residential. Otherwise, the sawdust will be pressed while walking, and the screed, respectively, will collapse.

Step 3 Using timber, build a honeycomb structure. Next, fill each cell with the mixture described above. The main advantage of this technology is that it will be possible to lay a subfloor on top of the timber, and the room itself can be actively used.

The use of expanded clay for insulation

Sufficiently high-quality insulation of the attic floor can be made using expanded clay. Who does not know, this material is obtained after firing clay. The main advantages of expanded clay include:

1. availability;
2. low thermal conductivity;
3. light weight;
4. environmental friendliness;
5. naturalness.

But there is also a minus, which lies in the difficulty of raising the material to the height of the attic.

Note! Often this material is used when it is required to insulate the ceiling over the slabs.

Instructions for insulation with expanded clay

The whole procedure can be conditionally divided into the following stages.

Step 1. First, inspect the plates for cracks or gaps. If any are found, seal them with mortar and cover with thick paper. What is characteristic, even with protruding structural elements, there are no difficulties when backfilling.

Step 2 Using a beam, build a crate. A subfloor will subsequently be laid on top of this grate.

Step 3 Pour the material onto the slab and level it with a rake. The thickness should be approximately 25-30 centimeters. It is characteristic that you can walk on expanded clay - there are no restrictions in this case.

Note! Falling asleep expanded clay, try to combine pebbles of various fractions (sizes). This will prevent voids from forming.

At the end, fill everything with a concrete screed or mount a subfloor.

The main nuances of the procedure

1. The tree rots, therefore, the steam rising from the house must pass freely. If you install a vapor barrier or use a material that does not "breathe" for this, then soon the tree may collapse.
2. Insulation with foil should be laid with it (foil) down to protect the wood from moisture.

You can see examples of correct and incorrect installation in the image below.

But the universal scheme is the insulation of the attic floor using any of the materials.

Video - thermal insulation of the attic floor

As a result, we note that the thermal insulation of the attic floor will be as effective as possible if the attic itself is reliably protected from the penetration of moisture from the outside. In other words, you also need to properly equip the roof. Good luck with your work!

Insulation of the attic will help to achieve a comfortable temperature inside the house, significantly reduce heating costs, as well as increase the usable area of ​​the building. The room after this procedure can be used as a living area. In addition, laying insulation will help solve another problem - the formation of condensate on the ceiling due to temperature changes. We will talk about all the features of attic insulation in this article.

The laying technology of each insulating material has its own characteristics, but there are general requirements for this process. Works are performed in a certain sequence. Initially, a vapor barrier of a cold attic is provided, then a heater is installed, and at the final stage - a material that protects the thermal insulation from the wind.

Insulating materials are divided into three groups:

• tiled - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, reeds;
• rolled - flax, mineral wool, glass wool;
• bulk - expanded clay, slag, ecowool, sawdust, straw.

Insulation of a cold ceiling: preparatory work

1. Before proceeding with the installation of insulation, it is necessary to waterproof and heat-insulate the roof.
2. If there is a previous insulation, you need to check its condition. If certain areas of the material are subject to the process of decay or mold, then they should be removed and treated with antifungal agents.
3. It is necessary to make sure that there are no cracks in the ceilings, gables and truss system. If these defects are found, they are eliminated by filling or replacing damaged elements.
4. You can get rid of cracks with the help of tow impregnated with lime mortar. For this purpose, sealant or building foam is also used.
5. Wooden elements are treated with special means that protect them from fire.

You need to make sure that the ventilation system is functioning properly. In the event of a malfunction, condensation will accumulate on the surface of the ceiling. If the roof is covered with a material that does not allow air to pass through, it is necessary to provide ventilation products. Their size should be 0.001 of the floor slab area. If tiles or slate are used as roofing material, then it is not necessary to make air ducts, since such a coating has gaps. But this applies to those houses, under the roof of which there is no waterproofing layer.

Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is characterized by low thermal conductivity, resistance to high temperatures and chemicals. In addition, this material has soundproofing properties, so its use will solve two problems at once. Features of laying mineral wool are as follows:

1. First of all, a vapor barrier layer is laid on the ceiling. It can be a special membrane, foil or polyethylene film. The vapor barrier is overlapped, and the joint areas are treated with an adhesive.
2. Next, rolls of insulation are laid over the laid layer. Mineral wool is placed between the elements of the truss system.
3. From the side of the eaves, the material is placed horizontally, placing it on the edge. This will help create a barrier that will keep the wind out.
4. If the attic space is ventilated, additional insulation is placed on top of the mineral wool rolls, which has vapor-permeable properties. For this purpose, you can choose isospan.
5. On the sides of the mineral wool, the vapor barrier does not fit. If it is present, moisture will enter the insulation layer, and this will inevitably lead to the appearance of mold and the material will lose its performance.

Insulation of a cold attic with foam

The use of this insulation will allow you to get a monolithic heat-insulating coating without joints. Styrofoam can be used to insulate houses with floors made of brick, metal or wood. The low thermal conductivity of the material makes it possible to obtain a thin layer of thermal insulation, which makes it possible to save the usable area of ​​the room. This is especially true when using the attic as a living area. The foam does not allow moisture to pass through and thus protects the house from condensation.

Features of the foam insulation process look like this:

1. This heater is laid on a flat surface. Therefore, before starting work, all overlap defects must be eliminated.
2. A vapor barrier is initially laid on the prepared base.
3. Further, the insulation boards are laid according to a checkerboard pattern.
4. The joints are filled with mounting foam.
5. After it hardens, the material is poured with a layer of cement-sand mortar 5 cm thick. Such a screed can be used as an attic floor.

Insulation of a cold attic with sawdust

This method is less popular due to the fact that the material is inferior in performance to mineral wool or polystyrene. However, if you decide to insulate the attic with sawdust, you should follow these rules:

1. First you need to eliminate the existing gaps. This can be done with clay or modern putty.
2. A small amount of sand is poured on top. If cracks appear in the clay, its fine fractions will fill the cracks.
3. Next, the base should be sprinkled with a mixture of slaked lime and carbide. This composition will help to avoid the appearance of mice.
4. After finishing the preparation, you can proceed to sawdust. They are poured in a layer up to 20 cm. Sawdust is a combustible material, so they need to be sprinkled with slag mining on top.
5. Particular attention should be paid to areas near hot objects, such as chimneys. As an alternative to slag, fire retardants can be used, which process sawdust.

This completes the insulation work. There is no need to lay any material on top of the sawdust. For ease of movement, you can put boards.

How to insulate a cold attic with straw

An alternative option for using sawdust is straw insulation:

1. Initially, the base of the attic is covered with a layer of clay no more than 5 mm.
2. Next, the straw is laid. The thickness depends on climatic conditions and can vary from 20 to 50 cm.
3. When using this insulation, the fight against mice is also an urgent problem. To do this, use slaked lime with the addition of carbide or another substance that can prevent the appearance of rodents.
4. In order to prevent the ignition of the heat-insulating material, clay is applied on top of the straw with a layer of 2 cm.

Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is recycled waste paper. To minimize the combustibility of the material, mineral binders are added to its composition. Ecowool fibers have the ability to absorb moisture, so when using it, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier. But experts still recommend laying the film base.

This insulation is installed by blowing installation. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to prepare a working base. As a result of using the installation, the insulation layer is homogeneous without gaps. In order for ecowool to cope with its task and provide the necessary thermal insulation effect, its thickness should be 25 cm.
But in the course of work, one should take into account the ability of the insulation to decrease in size after a while. For this reason, during the blowing process, a layer is formed that exceeds the recommended norm by 15% in thickness. After 1-3 weeks, a protective crust will appear due to the fastening of the upper ecowool fibers. This process can be accelerated by slightly moistening the insulation after installation is completed.

Insulation of a cold attic in a private house with fiberglass and expanded clay

Glass wool has a significant number of positive performance characteristics. It is resistant to fire, moisture and decay processes. Glass wool is an unfavorable habitat for rodents and various microorganisms, so pests do not start in it. But at the same time, this material has a high level of toxicity.

A prerequisite for using this insulation is the use of a respirator, gloves and tight clothing, which must be burned after installation. Glass wool is laid in a layer of 15 to 25 cm. It has the property of caking, so after a certain period of time the fiberglass will have to be replaced.
Another option for insulation is the use of expanded clay. It is mainly used for concrete floors. First, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 20 cm is poured onto the surface, which is poured from above by 5 cm with a cement mixture. This method will help not only to insulate the room, but also to get a full-fledged floor.

How to insulate a cold attic with reeds

The main advantage of reeds is environmental safety. This is a relatively new material, which in terms of thermal insulation qualities is not inferior to other heaters. Produced in the form of plates. In the event of a fire, the reed is able to contain the spread of fire. To reduce its combustibility, the material is treated with flame retardant compounds.

Reed is suitable for wooden and concrete floors. Installation of a vapor barrier in this case is not a prerequisite. To make it convenient to move around the insulated floor, you can lay wood-fiber boards on top.

The use of ladders made of algae and linen insulation

The ladders are made from zostera - seaweed. This is a natural material with high thermal insulation properties, which is not subject to decay, as well as to the effects of microorganisms and mice. Iodine and sea salt allocate such properties of the ladder. When in contact with fire, they do not light up, but only smolder a little. It does not emit toxic elements. Algae are not susceptible to moisture. Therefore, during their installation, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier. The ladders are mounted directly on the floor surface with a layer of up to 20 cm.
Linen insulation is produced in the form of rolls. They are made on the basis of natural raw materials, which makes the material absolutely environmentally friendly. They are used in most cases for warming the attics of wooden houses.

The installation technology of such heaters is quite simple. Preparatory work is limited to the elimination of cracks in the ceiling, they are covered with clay. There is no need for vapor barrier. Then linen rolls are laid. When installing, make sure that there are no gaps.

Cold attic ceiling insulation

This method is used if access to the attic base is difficult. It has a certain drawback, the height of the ceilings in the room will decrease slightly. Warming involves the same actions as for the thermal insulation of the ceiling, only in reverse order. First, a vapor barrier film is laid, then a heater, which is covered on top with a vapor barrier material. This is the difference between this method. When thermally insulating the floor, a vapor-permeable layer is laid on the insulation.
The ceiling of a cold attic is insulated in the following order:

1. A membrane is attached to its surface by means of a sealing adhesive.
2. Then a crate of wooden slats is mounted in increments of 50 cm.
3. The insulation is placed in the space between the frame elements.
4. A vapor-tight membrane is fixed with glue.
5. This completes the work.

Conclusion

Insulating the attic area will help keep the heat inside the room and reduce heating costs. Today, the construction market offers a significant selection of materials of natural and artificial origin, each of which has its own advantages. The process of their installation is quite simple and does not require special training. Some types of materials, in addition to thermal insulation, can achieve a soundproofing effect.

How to insulate the attic with your own hands:

In this article, we will consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool. We will find out how to take measurements and calculate the need for materials, as well as what tools to choose for the job. But the most interesting is a step-by-step description of the insulation of the attic.

Step by step description of the workflow

All work consists of separate stages:

• Measurements and calculations;
• Acquisition of necessary materials and tools;
• Laying vapor barrier and insulation.

Measurements and calculations

The preparatory part of the work consists of the following steps:

Illustration	Stage description
	span length is measured. You must know the exact length of the gaps from edge to edge.
	The width of the gaps and the height of the beams are measured. The width will help us calculate the area that needs to be insulated. The height is needed in order for you to determine whether the insulation will fit into the gaps, or if you have to lay another layer on top of the beams.
	The area of ​​insulation is calculated. It is important to remember one nuance here - the sheets are cut so that they are slightly wider than the openings and enter them tightly. This allows you to achieve high-quality insulation. After calculating, add another 5-7% to the final result for the difference in size.
	The thickness of the insulation is determined. Lest you count, I will present the options depending on the lowest temperatures in winter: Up to -15 70 mm; Up to -20 80 mm; Up to -25 90 mm; Up to -30 100 mm; Up to -35 120 mm. Thickness can be more, but not less.

You should not trust the project documentation and calculate everything according to it. The actual dimensions very often differ from the design ones, so it is better to spend time and check all the parameters.

Preparation of materials and tools

To work, you need the following materials:

Illustration	Stage description
	insulation. In our case, mineral wool will be used. The material is available both in slabs and in rolls, which one needs to be decided according to the situation. If the thickness of one layer of mineral wool is not enough for thermal insulation, then two-layer insulation is used.
	Vapor barrier material. To protect the insulation from the formation of condensate, a vapor barrier must be laid on the base. When purchasing material, remember that laps of 100 mm are made at the joints. For additional reliability, it is desirable to glue the joints with adhesive tape.
	waterproofing film. When insulating a cold attic, it is imperative to close the material on top with a reinforced waterproofing film to protect it from temperature extremes and humidity. It is better to choose reinforced options, they have high strength.
	Bar for crates. Necessary if the height of the beams is not enough for laying insulation and it is necessary to lay another layer on top. The size is selected in such a way that a gap of 30-50 mm remains above the stone wool for ventilation.

If the rough filing of the attic floor has not been made, then you will need a 32 mm thick edged board and self-tapping screws for its fastening.

When doing do-it-yourself work, you will need a tool:

• Knife for cutting insulation. It is best to purchase a special version in order to carry out accurately and quickly, it is suitable for both hard boards and soft roll materials;

• Construction stapler. With it, you will very quickly and securely fix the vapor barrier and waterproofing material. Do not forget to purchase hardened staples 6-8 mm long;

• Tape measure or meter. Necessary for measurements when cutting mineral wool;
• Scotch. With its help, the joints of the membrane are glued together. The most common option, the price of which is low, will do;

• Putty knife. Used to push the edges of the insulation between the beams. When using rigid plates, this device is not needed;
• Means of protection. When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, be sure to use protective gloves, it is also advisable to wear goggles and a respirator.

Description of the workflow

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool from the side of the attic is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration	Stage description
	Surface being prepared. Everything superfluous is taken out from the attic, after which you need to sweep the garbage with a broom. Check for protruding nails and other elements that may interfere with work.
	Vapor barrier is being laid. Insulation of the cold attic floor without this material is prohibited. The membrane is laid on the surface and pressed against the beams, after which it is fixed on them with a stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so as not to damage it. The photo shows the correct installation.
	Joints are sealed with tape. Even laps of 100 mm do not guarantee the reliability of the vapor barrier layer. Therefore, they are glued with adhesive tape along the entire length in order to create a continuous barrier to moisture.
	Mineral wool is cut into pieces of the desired size. For effective insulation of the attic floor, all elements must adjoin the beams as tightly as possible. Rigid cotton wool is cut 5 mm wider than the opening, and soft wool is cut 10-20 mm wider, the best option is selected experimentally.
	A layer of mineral wool is laid. The insulation technology is simple - the elements are placed as tightly as possible, the presence of gaps is unacceptable. If the insulation is narrower than the space between the beams, then it is laid so that as little waste as possible is obtained.
	If necessary, laying is done in two layers.. The instructions for carrying out the work are no different from the paragraph above. The only important nuance is that the sheets should be placed with an offset so that the joints between the elements do not match.
	Waterproofing is being covered. In any private house with a cold attic, condensation will form in the ceiling insulation if it is not protected with insulating material. Fastening is carried out with a stapler, above the mineral wool it is desirable to have ventilation ducts with a size of 30-50 mm.
	If necessary, the flooring is attached. Floors in the attic of the house are laid if in the future you plan to make an attic floor. The work is simple - the board is laid and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. In this case, roof insulation is also carried out, the process is described in detail in a separate review.

If you need to put a layer of insulation on top of the beams, then it is better to place the frame bars perpendicularly. Then the joints between the sheets will not match, and the quality of the insulation will be the best.

In a similar way, the floor is also insulated in a private house, the difference lies in the thickness of the insulation being laid. The process does not require any special tools. Everything you need is almost always at hand, which is why it is within the power of any developer. Of course, this option is not suitable for a concrete floor.

Output

I am sure that after reading this review, anyone can cope with the work of insulating the attic. The video will help you understand the topic even better, and if you have any questions, then write them in the comments.

With the rise in energy prices, the need to improve the thermal insulation of suburban households increases. Without high-quality work, arrangement and living outside the city in the winter will not be comfortable. Comprehensive attic insulation in a private house with your own hands involves the study of all roof surfaces. This is a simple, but multi-stage process, where all operations must be carried out in compliance with the laying technology in order to avoid mistakes that are difficult to correct during the operation of the building. The attic is used in different ways, the degree of insulation from the inside and outside depends on it.

Determining the functionality of the attic

Full insulation of the attic of a wooden house or a small cottage is very important, and it is better not to delay it so that condensation does not cause dampness. It leads to a decrease in the life of the building, the emergence of a favorable environment for fungi and mold. This happens over time in a new house, and in an old one.

An uninsulated attic is the whole house with a lot of heat loss, even if the boiler or stove is working to its fullest. Due to the temperature difference, cold penetrates into the house through all the cracks and openings, and an uninsulated attic gives off most of the heat from the ceiling of residential premises. Therefore, after insulating windows and floors, they move on to thermal insulation of the attic.

When using the attic as a living area, a finish is needed on top of thermal insulation materials. If this is a purely technical room, then you should not spend money on finishing materials. Perhaps, over time, there will be a desire to use the attic as an attic, then lay the floor and decorate the internal slopes of the roof as walls. Before that, it will be possible to strengthen the thermal insulation.

Tip: Experts recommend immediately making a full-fledged multi-layer insulation with vapor and waterproofing of attic floors. If the filler is laid in layers in a checkerboard pattern, closing the joints, then there will be no "cold bridges".

When the attic is used for technical needs and general maintenance of the roof, it is worth separately insulating:

• floors;
• chimney;
• communications.

Choosing the right materials and insulation

In the recent past, in rural houses, in order to reduce heat loss, a layer was laid out in attics:

• straw or hay;
• sawdust and shavings;
• dry leaves or seaweed.

Mice often settled in natural materials, and the materials themselves could ignite when the chimney overheated. Later, attics began to be insulated:

• glass wool;
• expanded clay;
• ruberoid.

Today, specialized materials are used to insulate the attic of the latest generation, in convenient packaging, which can be purchased at any hardware store. They can cover all surfaces under the roof. The thickness of the insulating filler is selected in accordance with:

• from the functionality of the attic;
• technical characteristics of the material;
• climatic factors.

The main advantages of modern materials for full thermal insulation:

• low specific gravity;
• low cost;
• ease of installation and operation;
• fire safety;
• they are not toxic;
• excellent protection against moisture and temperature extremes.

Among the most common materials for attic insulation in a private house do-it-yourself use:

• mineral or basalt wool (ecowool);
• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• expanded clay;
• polyurethane foam;
• fiberglass, etc.

Before laying the main thermal insulation material, it is important to ensure:

• condensate drain;
• vapor barrier of floors;
• roof waterproofing.

Tip: Windproof film, rolled waterproofing materials and a vapor barrier membrane will cope with this, which will provide layers of the main insulation with protection from condensation and wetting.

For high-quality attic insulation in a private house, you can use any latest-generation insulation that is offered in a building supermarket.

Attention: Before buying, you should consult with the specialists of the trading floor and read the instructions in order to have an idea about the method of its installation. Some materials are sprayed, like snow, on inclined surfaces, others are laid with the help of a crate, and expanded clay is covered with a layer on the lower surface.

When laying layers for attic insulation with mineral wool and similar rolled materials, it is important to exclude the divergence of the insulation seams. Thermal insulation should be tightly adjacent to all surfaces, enter the openings between the beams, forming a continuous cover. Joints between tile materials such as insulating foam can be filled with mounting foam.

When choosing materials, the determining factors remain:

• roof shape;
• general condition of the attic and its functionality;
• type of roofing materials;
• gable thickness;
• pre-laid rolled waterproofing or its absence.

Today, fiberglass, foam glass and mineral wool are the most popular and reliable materials. But high-quality insulation of the attic at home with your own hands should begin with full-fledged moisture protection and vapor barrier. And although this is an additional cost, it is worth taking care of it, even if it is simple fiberglass or special foil.

Heaters used for processing the attic space have a different degree of thermal conductivity. Heat saving and the recommended number of layers for application, spraying or styling depend on this factor.

When choosing a material for roof and attic insulation, it is important to consider the climate zone. If the house is located in a region with a warm climate, it is not recommended to buy rolls and sheets of maximum thickness. For latitudes with severe and long winters, bulk materials are used. It makes sense to lay insulation in 2-3 layers, use different types of thermal insulation on one surface. But remember that the volume of thermal insulation material does not always indicate the quality of the insulation and its maximum performance. They can be checked against the table.

1. High-density mineral wool is a universal thermal insulation that has a sufficient degree of protection against moisture accumulation. Under it, it is enough to lay a dense vapor barrier membrane. Basalt wool has several forms of release - slabs, rolls, loose mixture, to be used for any type of surface. It is also used as insulation and fire protection for chimneys and chimneys.

Attention: A small amount of formaldehyde is present in the mineral wool composition of some packaging forms. Therefore, when working with it, use a protective respirator and gloves, observing safety precautions.

2. Fiberglass is an excellent eco-material with a high degree of fire safety, although some of its indicators are slightly lower than analogues. It is available in packaging that is convenient for installation, it is easy to transport and store directly in the attic. Even a novice in this business can easily handle the installation of fiberglass according to the instructions included with the purchase. Suitable for warming the ceiling of a cold attic. However, it is more often used for external roof insulation.

3. Expanded clay is an excellent bulk insulation that is poured onto the floor (lower horizontal surface) of an attic or attic. Since its weight is low and thermal conductivity is low, the use of this bulk material makes it preferred. There is nothing easier - to pour expanded clay on the floor or between the joists, leveling with the required height layer over the vapor-tight membrane. The only drawback is that it is difficult to use on an inclined surface. Also suitable for the main filling of the cement mixture. On expanded clay, fastened with a cement-sand mixture, a laminate or linoleum is laid in a residential area.

4. Expanded polystyrene resembles polystyrene, it is not susceptible to mold and fungus. It is quite fireproof, durable and environmentally friendly. Does not cause a reaction even in allergy sufferers. It is laid with the help of lathing in layers, but it is important to provide waterproofing with rolled material before its installation.

5. Spraying with polyurethane foam resembles a layer of snow, and it is used where other heaters are difficult to lay, for example, with a complex roof shape with many kinks. It is sprayed onto the laid vapor barrier membrane.

Tip: When insulating the attic of a wooden house or cottage, you can combine several types of material, depending on the shape of the ceiling and the features of the roof.

Attention: Sometimes an additional wooden crate is used to eliminate seams and "cold bridges". But they should not add significant weight to the structure of the house, especially on problematic soils!

The crate for sheathing with insulation is made after the installation of waterproofing. The frame for sheathing is made from planks that were used for sheathing under roll and sheet insulation.

If it is planned to use the attic as a living space, then after warming they proceed to sheathing with finishing materials of the attic. Suitable for this purpose:

• drywall;
• OSB boards;
• plywood boards;
• sheet composite materials.

Internal and external insulation

The building materials market offers a wide range of full-fledged attic insulation used as additional living space. Today it is customary to combine the external method and waterproofing and insulation and interior decoration.

When choosing a method of external insulation of a gable or hip roof, it is taken into account how its slopes and roofing materials will be insulated. Insulation is mounted between rafters, beams and battens. For example, they combine rolled materials and solid insulation packed in layers, for example, basalt wool, a special membrane or foil. The difference between external and internal insulation is in the method of laying on floors or on beams.

For interior work, they begin with laying a layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing, and then mount 1-2 layers of insulation, for example, mineral wool. It is not closed with anything so that excess moisture from condensate can easily evaporate.

Polyurethane foam does not require additional sheathing at all, it is light, sprayed from a two-component mixture with special equipment. Upon completion of the application, a durable material in the form of dense flakes forms on the inner surface of the roof slopes. It does not form condensate and "cold bridges", even if we spray directly on the frame and roofing iron. It can also be used as insulation for attic pipes and chimneys.

A little about safety

Loose insulation tends to crumble, dust or evaporate volatile substances. Therefore, experts recommend working in a mask and clothing that protects the skin and respiratory organs from irritants and allergens. It is equally important to protect your eyes with goggles.

All work is carried out in work gloves, regardless of air temperature and installation conditions. For outdoor work on roof insulation, you can use insurance and equipment for climbers. It is important to check the reliability of the stairs in advance, including the roof that moves along the ridge. All work is done with an assistant or a person in charge of insurance.

Preparing the attic for insulation

The attic is often filled with various household rubbish, which is used quite rarely, for example, equipment for winter fishing and summer picnics. Before starting work on insulation, all this must be removed from the attic, especially when spraying.

Wooden parts, such as beams, rafters and lathing, it is important to pre-treat with a protective compound against rotting and the formation of fungus. Metal surfaces are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or a metal primer. All rust is cleaned with a special metal brush. There is a wash in the use of moisture-repellent compounds.

The old sealant, which has been used for a long time, is removed from the slots. Old felt, hemp, polystyrene foam, sawdust and rags decay and lose their properties over time. After cleaning from old materials used fragmentarily, sometimes small gaps appear that can be treated with mounting foam.

Thereafter:

• provide access to all treated surfaces;
• we prepare the working area and all the tools;
• we prepare materials for insulation and work clothes;
• we provide ventilation after completion of insulation work.

Before laying mineral wool as an attic insulation, a wooden crate is made of fixing strips, which should hold the layers of material. This can be done from conventional mounting rails, which are inexpensive. Under the decorative decoration of the walls of the attic, used as an attic room, laying can be done without crates, placed between the ceiling and the panels of finishing materials.

Warming technology

1. After the initial inspection, all defects in the overlap must be detected, and all rotten parts must be replaced or duplicated. Wood is treated with fungicides and antiseptics.

2. We equip or correct the waterproofing layer to get a full-fledged hydro-barrier. In unstable places, membrane materials can be patched with mounting tape.

3. Between the rafters, the gaps are filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. If necessary, we lay it in 2 layers, but the seams of the boards must be blocked. Roll materials overlap.

4. The adjunction of floor structures to the walls should be insulated especially carefully, without gaps. The insulation is installed without jams and failures.

5. It is important to carefully adjust the insulation at the joints, at the ventilation window, near communications and the chimney. In some places, it is advisable to fill in bulk mineral wool, which will fill the voids, moreover, it does not ignite even in hot places near chimneys.

6. A layer of vapor barrier is fixed on top of the thermal insulation layer, while the sheets are laid with a slight overlap, secured with mounting tape.

7. Insulation of communications is the next stage, because without insulation of the ventilation shaft, chimney and pipes, the work will not be comprehensive. This can be desired with special corrugations and insulating linings, perlite and basalt wool are suitable.

8. After checking the tightness of the attic insulation, the floor is processed. It is done after the cleaning of construction debris after the installation of fillers for insulation. Best of all, specially laid logs hold a layer of loose expanded clay. It can be filled with sawdust or clay, and moisture-resistant plywood can be laid on top. More clearly - attic insulation, video: